Oregon Coast 2019 – Day 9

Seaside Beach in Oregon

Cannon Beach (not pictured as we were already in Seaside before I took a photo) is where we spent the better part of a few of our previous trips to Oregon and was the starting location for this last day of our visit. With the rain coming down, we skipped the usual beach walk that would take us past Haystack Rock and instead left immediately for Seaside just north of us. This brings up one of the considerations of pre-booking a room, which, unfortunately, is often required on holiday weekends.

Had we woken to nice weather, we wouldn’t have cared about breakfast (and remaining dry) quite so much; we would have started on the beach first thing, and our day would have likely included a walk at Ecola State Park. The premium we paid to be in Cannon Beach would have been justified for our convenience of doing more with the short day under sunny skies. Instead, we incurred an extra $70-$90 for our room but have nothing else of value for putting our heads down here. So it goes, and like all things on vacation, we have to negotiate the variables.

Seaside Beach in Oregon

While it may well be a gray day for the remainder of our time out here, we must consider what we’ve heard about the freeze the rest of the country is experiencing and even take note of the snow blanket on the mountains just east of us. Being lucky enough that we can take this short walk between rain showers makes things quite okay. Three tornadoes touched down in Phoenix a couple of days ago, one of them only about 5 miles away from where we live. The Grand Canyon had blizzard-like conditions, losing electricity and heat, all of this while we walked the seashore with nary a care.

Seaside Beach in Oregon

The photos so far are of the beach in Seaside and were taken after our interesting breakfast at the Osprey Cafe. The wait for a table was well worth it as I can say I’ve never had Nasi Goreng for breakfast; it was even topped with an egg, making it especially breakfasty. While I’m at it, Caroline opted for Huevos Rancheros with a kind of corn cake called arepas. We’ll be back.

Dough Dough Bakery in Seaside, Oregon

It was starting to rain again as we finished our walk for the short drive to the intersection of Broadway and Holladay Drive and a return to the Beach Books store. Last year, we met Alexa, who we learned yesterday is working today. The Seaside Yarn and Fiber store is two doors down, and in between is the Dough Dough Bakery with hot coffee, free WiFi, and some excellent baked goods. After talking books for a time with Alexa, I headed into the bakery to catch up on some very neglected blogging chores.

Armed with more coffee and willing to suffer greater indulgence for the sake of allowing me to extol the virtues of being fully on vacation where the senses should always be operating at full capacity, I had a cinnamon roll. What’s the big deal? It’s just a pastry, right? Not to a person with diabetes; it’s evil incarnate and promises to spit on my cells that cannot absorb any more glucose. More insulin is the solution, you say? Not in my world where exercise, diet control, and Metformin have been able to keep things in check. This form of hedonistic debauchery in the realm of culinary sweets is tightly controlled, but not on vacation, as that would be torture.

Seaside Yarn and Fiber in Seaside, Oregon

Let’s pretend this is just a normal day and that we live here in retirement. This raises my ire as it brings up what is broken with Oregon beyond the clearcutting of forests and overfishing: the cost of real estate. Wealth from outside the area has moved in on the coast, buying up property for vacation homes and investments, thus driving up the cost of real estate for everyone else. You need not point out that this is the norm in cities across America, allowing the wealthy to earn more from their already concentrated wealth. Combine the rising cost of a dwelling, be it a rental or purchase of a home in places with relatively depressed economies where most people make something under $15 an hour, and you have a recipe for pain.

The idea that we could rent a place in northern Italy cheaper than we can two miles inland in Florence, Oregon, strikes me as a horrible deal that doesn’t bode well for the local economies up and down the coast here. Instead of Caroline and I leaving our savings here in Oregon, we’ll likely be spending them across the Atlantic, where our cost of living will be more manageable. What justifies these extraordinary inequalities where a small cadre of wealthy people are able to bring financial ruin to so many? These actions drive the people of lesser means out of the region into bigger cities, but their lack of formal education relegates these transplants to menial jobs. I guess this is one way to curtail Hispanic immigration.

This is not a win-win situation for anyone unless the wealthy, who are displacing the residents of this coastal region, believe their working-class minions will commute 20 to 70 miles from points inland to take the jobs of serving them lattes and walking their dogs. As I write this, I want to blurt out that I think this is just plain old fucked. Maybe you are suggesting I do something about it? Well, what does one do in a country where mediocrity and acceptance of a distorted and broken status quo rule the day? Ayn Rand, with her idiotic Fountainhead and Atlas Shrugged, was wildly successful in bringing us to a pure version of survival of the fittest, which has translated into everyone out for themselves and be damned those of you who can’t keep up. To this end, I don’t feel we are any longer Americans except when someone asks us for our hopes and prayers, to stand for the national anthem, or somebody brings up soldiers and their sacrifices.

Beach Books in Seaside, Oregon

Out of the bakery and back to the bookshop. This being Sunday, the bakery closes early at 1:00 p.m. due to business fading after the rush of people leaving church services. At the last minute, Caroline decided she really liked the Dough Dough Bird t-shirt too much to let it go, so we have one more item to pack tonight.

It looks like we might have another book or so coming home with us, including The Triumph of Seeds: How Grains, Nuts, Kernels, Pulses, and Pips Conquered the Plant Kingdom and Shaped Human History by Thor Hanson that Alexa inadvertently brought our attention to. She also let us leave with Me and Mr. Cigar by Gibby Haynes of the Butthole Surfers and The Adventurer’s Son: A Memoir by Roman Dial. These two last titles are not due out until next year; lucky us. These would join yesterday’s findings with 1491: New Revelations of the Americas Before Columbus by Charles C. Mann, SPQR: A History of Ancient Rome by Mary Beard, and Sometimes a Great Notion by Ken Kesey.

The Ken Kesey book was recommended to us down south while at the Siuslaw Pioneer Museum in Florence due to our interest in the historic industrial side of Oregon and how its past is crashing into the reality of the present. While I thought there was a small chance we’d find this title up here in Seaside, I was surprised that they’d have a title that is 42 years old, even if it is about Oregon.

This makes me wonder about resource depletion going on 100 years ago and how the wealthy are depleting the working class today by harvesting every penny they can from them through owning their homes and apartments and wrecking their participation in acquiring a quality life for themselves. But who cares about the unwashed masses who made their bed and are now being forced to sleep in it, right? I care because Caroline and I could easily be priced out of our vacations. Right now, we are privileged to have the means to bring ourselves into these kinds of experiences and are well aware of the fact that the majority of people along this coast do not have the ability to take themselves even down to Arizona, forget about the expense of heading to Europe for a few weeks.

Moss is allowed to live a better, more symbiotic life here on the coast, where, from its vantage point near the ocean, it lives free. Its descendants inherit its place tax-free and do not require an expensive university education to make a living. The birds take a place on the beach or on a tree branch when not darting about the sky without a license or rules they have to follow as they travel freely on their quest to find food along the way. Only when humans come along to displace their habitats do these creatures and plants find their existence threatened.

I’ve probably made this exact lament at least one other time here on my blog, but I feel it bears repeating. I’m supposed to feel free. To the extent that Caroline and I have the education and economic ability to bring ourselves into these adventures, I certainly feel lucky, but I also appreciate that so many more people in Europe have the same opportunities and means to share in the extraordinary. I attribute this perceived disparity to giant differences in health, education, and business practices in Europe that have at least some bias favoring the common individual. Europe’s population is twice that of America’s, and yet they can afford free university, great public transportation, and a humane amount of paid vacation for the individual to find a quality of life that better justifies the sacrifices made for the state and for big business.

Astoria–Megler Bridge between Oregon and Washington over the Columbia River

Bridges are interesting in regard not only to transportation but to human endeavors, too. In practice, they make moving between two geographical points easier, saving us time and allowing us better access to things and people that might otherwise be out of reach. In society, we use bridges as part of our social networking, which is supposed to offer us access to opportunity, but as we become electronic shadows of our former selves, we are increasingly irrelevant as part of the intellectual highway system. In that sense, it’s as though this bridge over the Columbia had been built for birds that would just fly from shore to shore. So why is this human-to-human bridge failing?

Is it because of our dismal view of one another? Is it because we no longer feel like an integral part of a larger thing and instead are isolated electrons in orbital positions around a nucleus of the ego existing in a void? Are we nothing more than a transaction with an IP number moving about like some anonymous packet of data? While hydrogen and oxygen are almost inextricably entangled in a water configuration, it is as though we humans are on a path towards oblivion, believing we can be on our own alone in a universe where the execution of financial transactions is the apex of being. Community and belonging to a larger something is going extinct.

Dismal Nitch in Washington

Our act of becoming nothing was being recognized by the early 1980s as Gilles Deleuze and Felix Guattari were writing about our deterritorialization in the book A Thousand Plateaus. In the ensuing years, we’ve accelerated the process and broken free of all territories on our way to full dematerialization. While those authors were seeing the hints of losing cultural meaning they could never have predicted that the personal electronic economy would not only remove any vestige of personal territory but that it would reject the physical existence of the individual.

As we become electronic puppets on the stage of parody where consumerism has replaced survival, we no longer have a need to be human in the sense that we are an evolutionary species seeking meaning. In another age, we learned to brave the elements, were taught about our environment, we sought symbiosis with a hostile world. Becoming nothing more than information, are we casting the die that suggests that without meaning, the course of evolution may have little need of us?

In an otherwise symbiotic system where death and growth found balance, maintaining relative harmony, we humans discovered ways of subverting nature while destroying our life support system. Simultaneously, we have been dispatching culture and turning ourselves into binary anonymity. Where we used to be a family, community, town, village, state, or country, we are quickly approaching that of being nothing.

Not that any of that really has relevance here, as the larger issue is why we ever believed that the proliferation of information was going to act as a great equalizer by making the wider distribution of knowledge something empowering. Greater access has had the contrary effect in exposing the depth of the individual’s proclivities towards debased idiocy. Collectively, we pander to the lowest common denominator in the name of individual choice under the guise of freedom. We are bullshitting ourselves at the expense of our continued existence but are rendered too narrow-minded to understand our predicament. A dismal situation indeed.

Caroline Wise and John Wise at Dismal Nitch in Washington

Caroline’s and my situation, on the other hand, is anything but dismal when I consider that we have options, can travel, read, write, explore our minds, develop skills, and contemplate the deeper corners of the ocean, the cosmos, and our emotions I realize our inventory of wealth is overflowing. We continuously try to build bridges with everyone and everything we encounter. While I have embraced our deterritorialization on a path to better knowing our world without any personal allegiance to any particular state, we are at the same time cultivating a global reterritorialization where we work to develop a kindred spirit with everyone. Our path doesn’t see us fading into dematerialization and nothingness as we do not lead a passive life of observation but are out here trying to find the things we do not know, understand, or fully comprehend. On occasion, we stumble into the profound and magical, dressed in moments of love that bring sunshine to the most dismal of days.

Oregon Coast 2019 – Day 6

We should have known just how cold it was going to be on the coast overnight when we found a second heater in our yurt. Both heaters ran all night, and by morning, when we ventured out of our cozy little den by the sea, the car was frozen over. The grasses on the way to the bathrooms were crunchy, and ice was everywhere. While waiting for the sun to show its face and the temperature to rise above 30 degrees, we took the opportunity to hang out for a while. I wrote, catching up a bit on filling in details about our second day out here, and Caroline continued knitting my next pair of socks using yarn she had bought in Portland on a previous trip.

Well aware that we were choosing comfort over clear skies, we pulled our tails out from between our legs and, like big dogs, left the nest to find adventure in the great unknown. Okay, so it isn’t really all that unknown by now after so many visits, but with my aging memory, almost everything I do these days feels like the first time ever. I’ll give you a tip about this strategy because it is, in fact, a strategy and not just the way things are for the old guy. You see, years ago, back when I was but a young man, I’d read from Herr Friedrich Nietzsche that the hardest thing for a person to learn is how to forget. So I’ve practiced this fine art of doing just that, forgetting. What advantage does this have, you probably are not asking. Bad restaurants continuously have the opportunity to be good, people I don’t really like are considered multiple times for friendship, and the really stupid shit I’ve said and done is relinquished to the good philosopher’s abyss where the monsters live.

Once we were out on the road it was over to our old standby Newport Cafe, opened 24/7, 365 days a year. This place has one of the best-mixed seafood scrambles. With far too much food in us, we needed an equal amount of walking to burn off some of the gratuitous calories. Out to the ocean at the Yaquina Bay State Recreation Site for a stroll on the ocean.

Silver sparkly reflections of our star bounce off of small pools of water while ripples in the sand cast shadows into the water, creating this kind of scene. The sun does many other amazing tricks with its commanding expertise of bedazzling us bipeds who have eyes and brains tuned just for this kind of pattern hunting where things out of the ordinary beg for us to examine them in great detail. What better way to carry something forward for further research than to snap a photo, take it home, and try to figure out just what it was that I saw in this scene that obviously enchanted me? Otherwise, why did I take 41 photos of essentially the same thing?

OMG, all this beachcombing has finally paid off with us finding this pristine and intact ancient crystal sea tentacle. We’d read about them in an old Assyrian papyrus scroll that, while of Middle East origin, was actually found intact in Pompeii, Italy, during World War II by Caroline’s marauding Nazi great uncle Siegfried Handarbeit and brought back to the Fatherland (now known as modern Germany). I know it’s hard to believe, but he brought back a couple dozen of these scrolls, one of which talks of a recipe for a kind of lamb taco that was a Turkish invention; who knew? Yet another speaks of predictions that were to happen in the coming 4,000 years, but that stuff is kind of sensitive, and we’re not ready to share that yet. Anyway, back to the crystal sea tentacle, it is said that the person(s) who come into possession of this Akkadian mystical relic will forever experience pure love. I can attest to the power of the myth as that is surely just the way it’s happening as I write these very words.

By now, I might have thought Caroline and I had already walked every major stretch of beach here in Oregon, but it turns out that there are large parts of it that are unexplored. Last year we had this recognition at Moolack Beach just north of here in Newport. The mouth of Yaquina Bay has a jetty we are walking towards as I look for an angle of the Yaquina Bay Bridge to photograph. Caroline is not bothered by this errand as she’s in love with bridges as much as she is with walking next to the surf, picking up small pieces of trash on the shore, staring at the birds eating crabs or those that run next to the edge of the pulsing shoreline or admiring the clear blue skies without a cloud in sight that seems to be a good indicator of what kind of weather we’ll have today.

This is the moment when I realized that these grasses that are always brown, in my experience, may not always be so. I wonder how different things would look if, instead of the warm browns, tans, and orangish colors of fall, things were in the vibrant hues of spring or early summer.

As we make our way down the jetty, we follow the rocky shore that continues along the bay ultimately passing under the bridge before a path on the other side brought us into the Newport Historic Bayfront. Many of these iconic bridges, such as this one right here, were designed by Conde Balcom McCullough back in the 1920s and ’30s. Sadly, in looking this information up, I learned that one of his designs, the Alsea Bay Bridge between Waldport and Bayshore, was stricken with fatigue as it aged and was replaced, which has me wondering how many of these iconic parts of the landscape will still be standing 20 years from now? There are remains of the old Alsea Bay Bridge at a wayside on the north end of the current bridge that I didn’t learn about until after our trip, and neither of us has seen it on the many crossings of the new bridge. Yet another reason to return to Oregon.

It’s Thanksgiving Day morning, so the streets of Newport here in the old town are empty. This works out perfectly for me as we can window shop, but there is no dipping into shops, or is there? These crab pots are ready to go to sea; just stuff in some bait before throwing them overboard, and the crab climbs in. Time for cranky old John to make an appearance in drawing a metaphor for the similarities between crabs and people as when you look at the box of plastic we call TV and fill it with the bait of some stupid show, watching the viewer crawl right in, trapped and ready to be used.

This is not a sea lion, not even a little bit. While to my right and just below us are at least a couple of dozen of the grunting, bellowing giants, most of them dozing on some floating docks. They are catching glimmers of the sun but are mostly in the shade. This makes photographing them particularly difficult, so instead of sharing a bad photo (yes, I am aware that any photo I post here could be seen as bad), I’m offering up this image of the ubiquitous seagull. I was surprised by its patience after I asked it to hang out, and it let me come closer to snap its photo. While it kept a close eye on me before heading aloft, I was able to get the sense that it might have been posing.

Say hello to Mr. Victor Firebear, originally of Montana but now a man with a wandering nature where anywhere might become home for a spell. Singing and playing violin streetside here on Thanksgiving, I gave a nod while raising my camera, silently asking if it was okay to snap a photo; he obliged me. Caroline and I hung out for a few songs of his spontaneous concert. This nomadic busker was incredibly gracious and enthusiastic about knocking out the songs for an appreciative audience that included us and a couple of women who were here representing Jehovah’s Witnesses. Mr. Firebear is half Northern Cheyenne and half Crow, with both parents having been full-blood Native Americans from their respective tribes. You should be so lucky to have the opportunity to hear this guy sing on a street corner some cold fall day; you can rest assured we extended our thanks to him for giving us this serenading.

By now, we were 4 miles into our walk, and it was well past noon. Back up the hill, over and around the old lighthouse, we returned to where we parked the car so we could go find lunch.

Caroline Wise burger in Newport, Oregon

It seems fitting to me in our non-traditional pursuit of Thanksgiving experiences that we should forego the staid old turkey and stuffing dinner and instead go back to the Newport Cafe for a Monster Burger. Weighing in at a puny 3 pounds, I let Caroline talk (coerce) me out of ordering the 8-pound Super Ultimate Monster that I’ve been wanting for YEARS!

Having had a late giant breakfast, we weren’t all too sure we were even hungry enough to finish the 3-pounder, yet we polished it off, leaving the bun as the only evidence that there had been a burger on this plate. With post-feasting naps typically not appreciated at restaurants and an abundance of great weather, we waste no time getting back on the road.

Ah, Moolack Beach by Moolack Shores Inn has fond memories for us. No time to walk this stretch of coast today, though, as we have some unscheduled unknown date with someplace up north that we’ll figure out when we get there should we find what it is we are looking for today.

This is the Otter Creek Loop that runs parallel to Highway 101 offering better viewing opportunities of the ocean. Did we find what we were looking for here? Not exactly, although places like this on days like this can come close to filling the gaps or refreshing memories of places we’ve been before, so there’s that. By the way, can you tell from the position this image was taken just after the curve on a one-way road that I might be “that guy” who doesn’t use a lot of caution when seeing a photo I must have?

Still on the Otter Crest Loop enjoying quiet roads with the majority of Americans safe at home with their families, watching football, getting stuffed, napping, and ultimately arguing before heading home, swearing off another Thanksgiving with all the accompanying drama.

While at Rocky Creek State Scenic Viewpoint, we failed to find the creek, but this was our first time here, so we’ll simply have to make a return visit to pay closer attention to the finer details that skipped us by.

It is through Rocky Creek that we got to this overview of Whale Cove. Some years ago, near the edge of this cove, construction began on what would become a hotel called the Whale Cove Inn. It’s a great-looking place with a spectacular location, but at $500 a night and above, it remains out of our grasp. Sure, we could splurge and grab a couple of nights, but let’s get serious, as the $1,000 would pay for 21 nights in yurts up and down the coast. I guess this is where I should share our motto, “Live frugally and live large.”

Heading back through the Rocky Creek wooded area, there would be no glimpse of the Buffalo Bills, Detroit Lions, or Dallas Cowboys, who were all playing football today. How do I know what teams were playing? I had to look it up after the fact. There were glimpses of the ocean, a happy face on Caroline, a rich palette of colors basking in the sun, and walking with more walking that kept bringing us to a ton of ooh and aah moments. As I sit in a coffee shop writing this, I wish to feel the forest floor under my feet again.

Following some small roads through a residential neighborhood, we came across a small parking lot for Fishing Rock. There was no doubt that we’d have to take the walk. I can’t emphasize enough that Caroline and I are surprised by the number of places we’ve not visited yet. After so many trips up and down this coast, we feel that by now, we’ve likely seen the majority of locations where one can get out to gain a new perspective of the scenery, and yet that’s just what we’re doing over and over again.

A still wet, muddy, and steep segment of the Oregon Coast Trail heads down to the beach in front of us here at the Fishing Rock State Recreation Site. While we couldn’t walk this particular stretch of beach right in front of us, if you look well into the distance, we’ll be out there on Gleneden Beach, though we didn’t know it yet.

The trail here offers some great views, or maybe they’re only great to us because we’ve never seen them before. There are other parts of the trail that are falling into the ocean, which asks the question, how long until Fishing Rock is in the ocean swimming with the fishies?

Any other twisted gnarl of wood would be just that, but this is Oregon Coast Gnarl being bleached by the sun, salt, and sand, so in my eyes, this rises to the level of art.

Gleneden Beach was another one of those wandering around residential neighborhood finds. If the shadows don’t clue you into the time of day, the next photo will.

For the first time ever, Caroline and I are present at Gleneden Beach to watch the sunset. Of the multitude of places we could have been, this is where we ended up. One has to ask, how lucky was that?

Arriving at Siletz Bay for the remaining glow of sunset is a dream. I often wonder how these serendipitous moments just keep occurring in our lives. Make yourself available for life’s surprises and rewards, and the universe delivers. If you are smart, you’ll try to grab your fair share of the extraordinary as all too soon, it will all be extinguished as our fleeting encounter of knowing time comes to an end.

Dinner at Maxwell’s was meh in comparison to everything else that happened today, but Caroline was satisfied with her turkey dinner and craft beer. The yurt at Devils Lake State Recreation Site was kind of meh, too, as it is the one park on the coast that’s within city limits. The Lincoln City police were far too aggressive with the use of sirens here on Thanksgiving, disturbing the tranquility of the evening; maybe it was their anger at not being allowed to enjoy the day with their loved ones.

Oregon Coast 2019 – Day 5

John Wise at our Yurt at Carl G Washburne State Park in Florence, Oregon

If I’ve got to be an old man, I’m happy to be this one in the photo. Gone from those eyes are the angst of youth. I see a guy happy and comfortable where he’s at, cozy too, with all that wool wrapping him up warmly. Like many others have said before me and have done so with a flair, while the youth may be gone from my appearance, it still rages hard within my spirit. Of course, my wife might interpret that as me still being half an idiot or that I’ve forgotten that I’m technically the age of a grandpa, though she’d also insist that I’ve mastered the poor humor of such an old guy.

Carl G Washburne State Park in Florence, Oregon

Can you find Disneyland in a cold, wet rainforest on the central coast of Oregon under gray skies? We can; it’s right here at Carl G. Washburne State Park on the China Creek loop trail. What I mean to say is that this trail we’ve taken countless times here has all of the appeal and entertainment value of a place others hold as an essential must-visit at least once in your life kind of place.

Take this lichen here that is commonly called dog lichen; it belongs to the Peltigera genus of lichens of which there are 91 species. How do we know this? Caroline went on a super-sleuthing task after I failed to find anything about it while searching for variations of mushrooms and fungi. Once she identified this as lichen, it took another half-hour until she stumbled upon the name of the orange things, which turn out to be ascocarps and are part of the reproductive structure of the lichen, carrying spores. So, this particular species appears to be Peltigera membranacea.

Along the way, while researching this and then getting lost following a ton of other threads, Caroline came across a lichen called Icmadophila ericetorum which has a way cool common name: Fairy Barf.

Carl G Washburne State Park in Florence, Oregon

There are no thrill rides here, but there are thrilling views that will never all be seen, no matter how often you visit. This forest is dynamic, and while many things, such as the trees, seem to remain static at first blush, if you look closer, you’ll soon notice that is impossible. Even if I marked the location of this tiny garden of some sort of sprouts (or maybe they are fully grown, but tiny plants), whatever they are, I’d bet a dollar this wouldn’t look the same a week from now.

Carl G Washburne State Park in Florence, Oregon

Look at a newt from where you stand, and you’ll likely think to yourself that not only is their gate a strange one, but their pace is on the slow side. Now get down at their level and put a camera in front of them so you can attempt to get a close-up of their face, and you’d swear they were pretty snappy in their step. We learned some time ago that they are mildly toxic with a substance on their orange undersides that is an irritant. Considering that this likely occurs when they are threatened, we’ve decided not to pick them up anymore to admire their beautiful eyes, feet, and locomotion of their curious steps.

Carl G Washburne State Park in Florence, Oregon

While just three atoms make up a molecule of water, there are 5.01 x 10²¹ atoms in a drop of water. I can’t tell you how many drops of water are in this photo hanging from this bit of a plant. The plant itself is made of cells that are as complex as human cells, with its own DNA for passing on genetic traits and RNA for making proteins, etc. The number of cells in a gram of plant or animal tissue is another exponential number like the one above for water, though not as many. My point is that we are looking at trillions of atoms and at least billions of molecules in a complex system where water has to be exchanged with the plant and the cells in the plant, transferring information through a complex network of channels while growth is at work.

Most of us will look at images such as these and never comprehend the complexity of just what’s before us. We’ll go through life ignorant of how symbiotic the entire interplay of atoms is for the support of life, not just ours but of all the systems that must work as a tight patchwork of essential subsystems in an ecosphere where consciousness took flight. If only humanity could see this intrinsic nature of reality, we might come to the conclusion and realization that we are coexisting in a fragile environment that could only benefit from more awareness of its greatest destroyer.

Carl G Washburne State Park in Florence, Oregon

Now, extrapolate the numbers above to just this section of trail in one incredibly small corner of a place somewhere on the coast of a single state that is actually a tiny spot of a continent and try to realize how relatively insignificant your own bag of cells is to the bigger picture. You are so incredibly lucky to have all of the attributes of consciousness with sensing organs to move through the infinity of a reality that might be the only one you’ll ever know. Do you decide to take advantage of this awareness and maybe find delight in the undiscovered sights, sounds, and potential knowledge that is all around you, or are you content in a staid existence where you allow yourself to remain in situ like so much moss on the forest floor?

Carl G Washburne State Park in Florence, Oregon

If I told you that I witnessed a tiny elf scurry out from under this mushroom, would you really be able to challenge me? I could tell you that it exists in a spectrum of light invisible to your vision and that its body is made of a mix of nitrogen, argon, carbon dioxide, oxygen, hydrogen, and various particles, all using photons as their energy source while harnessing neutrinos as a communication network. What I’ve just described is exactly what you are seeing that is invisible in this image: the air we breathe. While neutrinos are not used for communication as far as we currently know, I’d like to postulate that we may not yet know if things from the ether are able to exist outside of our realm of knowledge. Now, to be honest, I did not see an elf, gnome, fairy, or sprite dancing under the mushroom cap or scurrying out of sight, but that doesn’t mean there wasn’t magic being captured of the reality before my eyes.

Carl G Washburne State Park in Florence, Oregon

The whispers of the forest are faint, but their poetry of hushed tones might be heard if you remain still and observant of the relationship of things that create this universe. We cannot truly experience this world where spiders can take refuge out of sight or are in plain sight but have merged into the natural camouflage of the environment. On the surface of what we see are yeasts and bacteria we cannot see. Without learning more, how can we ask the right questions or begin to guess what their role is here in the shaded woods? The roots, tendrils, webs, and invisible trails through the thicket are alive and teeming with life; try as I might, I cannot grasp the order or balance of things. Now if this is a Liberty Cap mushroom, which I’m in no way certain of, though I think we could be in agreement that the opportunity to find psychedelic mushrooms across the Oregon landscape is a given, then we can dig another step deeper into questioning why is nature supplying itself with hallucinogens if it is not in some way self-aware?

Carl G Washburne State Park in Florence, Oregon

Witch’s butter, as it’s sometimes known, is also orange jelly fungus, or by its Latin name, Dacrymyces palmatus. This fungus grows on wood, and while we didn’t know it at the time, it is edible.  While walking along, it’s easy for bright contrasting colors to catch our eye even when they are tiny spots in the larger picture, such as the ones up near the top of this blog entry. So if the brighter colors draw our eyes in, what about all the species that miss our casual gaze and blend into the scenery, not wanting to be seen?

Carl G Washburne State Park in Florence, Oregon

This is China Creek, and while I’m uncertain if this is true, I believe it’s the first image of the trail’s namesake I’ve shared here on the blog.

Carl G Washburne State Park in Florence, Oregon

All great old things grow beards. Old dogs have white whiskers on their chins. My wife has the occasional goat hair popping off of her still soft and delicate chin; I’m sure she doesn’t mind me sharing that. True, young hipsters have beards, too, but that’s just because they recognize that on the path to greatness, one must possess a tuft of hair on the bottom half of their face to allow for focused contemplation. Trees are the masters of beards. Moss must have come about in order to demonstrate wisdom as it grows in places where reverence of things extraordinary and wise is apparent.

I noted above that there are 91 species of lichen, and while they are the granddaddies of the plant kingdom, having appeared over 550 million years ago, there are nearly 10,000 species of mosses. These hairy fellows are relative youngsters who have only been hanging out in our woods for about 290 million years, but you have to admit their prolificness.

Carl G Washburne State Park in Florence, Oregon

A phallic appearance was not the intention when I knelt down to capture this blue-gray mushroom poking out of the forest floor, but phallic is what I got. So, beyond the obvious comparison, what else is there to know about this particular mushroom? I don’t really know, as I’m not going on a search to identify exactly what it is, but I can share some interesting facts about mushrooms for those who might be curious.

There are four major categories of mushrooms. The first is the saprotrophs that help decompose the materials around them. They recycle organic waste by releasing acids and enzymes that digest the dead matter, which in turn feeds the mushroom. Then there are the parasitic mushrooms that take over plants, ultimately killing them so the Mushroom King might live on, kind of virus-like really. Mycorrhizal mushrooms rely on a more symbiotic relationship with plants, where they supply nutrients to the plant while the plant offers a food source the fungus needs to survive. Finally, there are the endophytes. Endophytic fungi are essentially parasites, too, but they do not kill their host. One last item of note, there are over 10,000 species of mushrooms currently known. If you can send me an email listing the names of all of them you’ll be entered in a contest to win some undetermined gift. Exciting stuff, huh?

Carl G Washburne State Park in Florence, Oregon

Okay, so the mushroom trivia may not be the most exciting content here on JohnWise.com, but this photo of sunlight falling on the mossy forest, spilling over trees, and warming our cockles should bring out some happy cheer from those of you fortunate enough to know how terrific sunshine feels to those in a rainforest late in November.

Carl G Washburne State Park in Florence, Oregon

You’ll beg for me to stop posting all the mushroom, fungus, liverwort, lichen, and moss photos by the time this day is finished. If I had a microscope with me, I’d also be taking photos of the cyanobacteria, a.k.a. blue-green algae, to share with you. Speaking of cyanobacteria, did you know that there are only 2,698 described species of this branch of algae out of an estimated total of 6,280 cyanobacteria species? Not only that, but it’s been estimated there are between 30,000 and 1,000,000 different species of algae; just imagine if there were even a couple of dozen species of humans walking the earth. And no, idiots are not a species unto themselves.

Carl G Washburne State Park in Florence, Oregon

That’s about it, as the trail simply disappears into the edge of the forest where we and everything we’ve ever known or seen ceases to exist. This is the black hole of the rainforest where the event horizon is paved in electric green psychedelia. On the other side, we emerge 20 minutes younger though that might also be attributed to the fact that our hearts and minds have sung themselves into younger versions of the people that entered this magic land.

Devils Churn in Yachats, Oregon

The Devil’s Churn at Cape Perpetua in Lincoln County, Oregon, could also be known as the place where John will have to take hundreds of photos in an attempt to capture the ferocity of the frothing gnarl of the sea that comes crashing into a narrow inlet, building up explosive energy as the water is compressed with nowhere to go but up. I could sit here for hours watching these fluid sculptures exist and disappear in fractions of seconds. I never really considered this before, but maybe these are quantum communication forms that have been transmitted to us by an alien species that believes everyone knows how to read chaos in the churning foam.

Driftwood Beach in Seal Rock, Oregon

Just out of frame due to poor photography skills by the author is the signature of Bob Ross, dated 1994. I think I might have found my very own version of a Banksy image painted right here in the Oregon sand.

Driftwood Beach in Seal Rock, Oregon

If you are starting to wonder if this day ever ends, the answer is a resounding NO! The impressions we gathered will live on with us, and while they can never be experienced by anyone else, we appreciate that they are uniquely ours. Nobody can ever go back and see these things just as we did. While everyone can watch a rerun of Game of Thrones and see the same things millions of others have seen, our adventures into reality, painted with the filters of interpretation we bring into our imaginations, will never be known or fully understood. We choose to the best of our abilities to be the atom on the beach that is part of the molecule creating the scene which becomes the cells making up the body of reality.

South Beach in Newport, Oregon

The reality we perceive is a fleeting image like these plovers who, for a moment, lend themselves to an unimaginable scene but just as quickly flock in what is nearly a murmuration to fly away, never to be seen again. You then must ask yourself, were you trying to witness your own reality enhanced by the serendipity of life’s rare moments, or were you content to remain fixed to your chair, staring into the abyss of nothing?

South Beach in Newport, Oregon

The light is fading fast with hopes that the impressions it helped illuminate will persist long into the days that see us growing older. This is how you live 100 days in one.

Oregon Coast 2019 – Day 3

Smith River near Bolon Island in North Bend, Oregon

Saturday and Sunday came on with a speed of wow as the sun catapulted Caroline and me into near-constant motion. With expected rain replaced by delightful blue skies, we used every moment to wander in the good fortune raining down upon our shoulders. After a weekend of this warm embrace by Oregon, we let ourselves celebrate that if this were the totality of our vacation we’d be satisfied by what we’ve already had. We also know that come next Sunday, after we’ve been out here for nine days, we’ll be lamenting that it’s already over.

Bolon Island, Oregon

Today we face a chance of rain, except we’ll never let it put a damper on our enthusiasm. We come to Oregon at this time of year by choice with the full knowledge we are flirting with the encounter of what others would call bad weather. We see this as offering us a full break from the oppressive nature of our Arizona summer while satisfying our need for winter.

Smith River near Bolon Island in North Bend, Oregon

The only problem that can really impact our time out here is that we are too busy and consequently too tired to tend to our respective crafting objectives. Caroline is always ready with the knitting needles, and me with a pen and paper or the virtual version which utilizes the keyboard I’m writing with right now.

Winchester Bay, Oregon

Heavier clouds are trading places with the bit of sun that moments ago was still smiling on us through the windows of where we were having breakfast. We need to put getting caught up with this side of our vacation on pause and leave the comfort of the great indoors for the adventure of the great outdoors.

Bridge at North Bend, Oregon

Our attempt at finding something to do started with Bolon Island, which wasn’t very well marked, so after a short drive up the river, we turned around and tested fate by driving the nearly 30 miles south to the South Slough National Estuarine Research Reserve in Charleston. With a 70% chance of rain today, we figured that no matter what we did, we’d be in our raincoats, but the weather held for our drive.

South Slough National Estuarine Research Reserve in Charleston, Oregon

The Seven Devils Road that passes the slough has been driven by us more than a few times, but never did we put things together that up in this mountainous terrain, a path would cut through the forest, taking us down to sea level. There are a number of different trails that take us out to the slough, and with the threat of looming heavy clouds offshore, we choose an out-and-back trail that, if the weather proves too inclement, we can see a small corner of the wetlands and head back to the trailhead.

South Slough National Estuarine Research Reserve in Charleston, Oregon

Down the often steep trail, the forest is dripping on us more than the sky. Another vibrant green magical environment has been discovered enchanting us with our first encounter. The path has been cut through a hillside that verges on a cliffside where the growth is so thick there are patches that look as though it’s the evening in there. Deeper we venture.

South Slough National Estuarine Research Reserve in Charleston, Oregon

We cross a few bridges and, along the way, see some of the densest mushroom groves we’ve ever seen, veritable forests of mushrooms. Ferns, mosses, rotting multicolored leaves, barren branches, and evergreens are seen in every direction.

South Slough National Estuarine Research Reserve in Charleston, Oregon

It dawns on me that had Bolon Island been better marked, we may have spent the morning there, and while on some future visit, we might still learn that we missed something grand there, we are astonished in being here. That word, astonishment, is likely used a bit too frequently here on my blog, just as beauty, love, wonderment, and a few more that lend themselves to extolling the sense of wow are also used more than I might wish.

South Slough National Estuarine Research Reserve in Charleston, Oregon

Do you think these mushrooms make my blog look fat?

South Slough National Estuarine Research Reserve in Charleston, Oregon

Let me beat a drum I’ve played on with many a previous blog entry where I’ve had to fawn over the people who cut these trails, built boardwalks, hauled steel and concrete into remote and difficult-to-access corners of our country so that on some random weekend people from all walks of life and a multitude of countries can take a leisurely stroll in nature.

South Slough National Estuarine Research Reserve in Charleston, Oregon

How many people who live in western Oregon would question what is so appealing about this environment blanketed in luscious green moss? If they came to the Arizona Desert would their own poor vocabulary be reduced to a few superlatives used to exclaim their surprise at the contrast to what they know from back home? Then again, they may be part of the majority who travel over our planet and fail to see the intrinsic beauty to be found in every corner, even in the humble tumbleweed.

South Slough National Estuarine Research Reserve in Charleston, Oregon

It’s not until we are approaching sea level and an overlook of the estuary that the rain starts to come down, and for a minute, it really comes down, but only for a minute. That one-minute cloud burst was nearly it, though we’d have one more moment of drizzle before we made the decision regarding which trail we’d take to return to our car.

South Slough National Estuarine Research Reserve in Charleston, Oregon

Before that, we have plenty more to explore down here, where saltwater pushes deep inland to mix with fresh water. Much to our surprise, considering we feel like we are in the mountains or at least tall hills, we can hear the ocean from here. It makes sense when one considers this being an estuary and all, but it feels seriously far from the ocean.

South Slough National Estuarine Research Reserve in Charleston, Oregon

There are remnants of an old rail line down here that was used for logging back long ago when all of the Redwoods were being removed from the coast. It’s as though our ancestors might have thought those trees were an ugly blight on the landscape that required clearing away for some faster-growing trees that could help create a thriving land-rape economy. That was back when fishing, too, was a lucrative business here on the coast. As long as greed was able to function, the rape continued unabated until depletion set it. Of course, depletion is just code for government intervention and control from Washington D.C. at the expense of jobs for hard-working people. If you think about this for a moment, if we are going to rape the land, why would we not want to rape the sea too? And seeing that our oceans are so much bigger, we’ve been able to do a lot more raping.

Maybe you are thinking that the smiling face of the guy in the red handknitted cap can’t be all that grumpy to talk in such dire terms about how we treat the land and sea? I am, after all, an aging white guy, born in upstate New York, married to a German (and we all know about their history), so I must be part and parcel of the herd of idiots who interpret everything through the filter of conspiracy and that the “man” is trying to keep down the righteous working man, right? Fucking wrong. I’m a tree-hugging (cactus, too) liberal bent on giving away everyone else’s hard-earned money to welcome the illegal alien zombie apocalypse onto our shores with free university and health care for ALL their babies as long as the trees and trails are kept clean by their children who are stealing all of our janitorial jobs.

South Slough National Estuarine Research Reserve in Charleston, Oregon

Can you recognize the smoke coloring the reflection of the clouds in the water? That smoke is from the piles of unwanted tree-shit that are being burned to ash across the way where they are clear-cutting my soul. The haze of obfuscation created by lies might be another apt description.

South Slough National Estuarine Research Reserve in Charleston, Oregon

This is the end of our trail as it has tipped over, taking our path with it. All of a sudden, I start to have images of the narrow spit of land we are walking on doing the same, and I have to fight the urge to flee.

South Slough National Estuarine Research Reserve in Charleston, Oregon

Caroline, on the other hand, took off running. No, she didn’t, but that’s about the extent of the humor I can bring to this part of the story.

South Slough National Estuarine Research Reserve in Charleston, Oregon

About now, I start thinking, even asking myself, why am I including so many photos that I’ll feel compelled to write about? The answer is easy: I have to because if I were reading my blog and saw these photos, I’d start to recognize that these moments are just one small part of a single day. If all of these beautiful images represent approximately nine late-fall/early-winter hours of this couple’s day on the coast, then imagine what a person could experience if they were out on the Oregon Coast on a summer day when visitors receive nearly 16 hours of daylight!

South Slough National Estuarine Research Reserve in Charleston, Oregon

Not only would this visitor be able to explore the coast nearly every waking moment, but they’d typically do so in the effervescent brilliance of sunlight instead of the muted tones of an overcast day. So why don’t we see that luxury? Because we also understand this wetland would be infested with mosquitoes and overrun by families and pets screaming and shitting on every surface, meaning the soundscape and the trail my boots must go. At this time of year, the earth is primordial and apparently inhospitable to those who only find comfort in front of a television or smartphone. The earth is thus given over to Caroline and me alone.

South Slough National Estuarine Research Reserve in Charleston, Oregon

We opted for the long way back. Enjoying each and every sight and smell down here, we could have stayed all day, though we felt we were still racing against the rain that would return. The rain never materialized after that earlier quick soaking; good thing we stopped the night before to pick up a raincoat for me just in case.

South Slough National Estuarine Research Reserve in Charleston, Oregon

Some might see this scene as inanimate, but I see the person at home as having less life than plants. I’ve heard the stories that people cannot afford to travel like we do, that we are especially lucky. I can hardly believe that, though, seeing we are a high school graduate and a high school dropout. We didn’t inherit money, nor do we live off a trust fund, and yet this is our 211th venture away from home in the past 20 years. I simply think that people do not want to have a life outside of their convenient excuses used for why they can’t afford anything. The truth is they desire the bitterness of being a victim because of the lack of discipline to get what they want from life. Without an imagination fueled by reading and learning, their mind’s eye withers into a myopic cyclopean deformity stuck in the tunnel vision of repetition.

South Slough National Estuarine Research Reserve in Charleston, Oregon

I feel like I’ve gone off-trail, and I’m ranting as I’m apt to do when I can’t leave well enough alone and rely on some flowery language to describe the oohs and aahs of delight found by my sappy side that would be well adorned with flowers in my hair. This is one of the pleasures of blogging for nobody but myself as, in my view, nobody ever reads these missives anyway, so I could just as well write blah blah and get the same response. Someday though, when I’m old and no longer able to put myself in these situations where we’re exploring nature or I’m looking down my nose at the masses, I’ll have Caroline or my newest smartphone reading this crap back to me so I can relish how pretentious I was in my mid-50’s.

North Bend Oregon driving toward Horsfall Beach

Hmmm, pretentiousness is kind of like the road to nowhere in that it will not bring your soul to happiness, just as the road to nowhere will not take you to a place. But what if the road to the unknown is painted in golden and silvery light? I suppose the destination can only be deciphered by what you’ve brought with you in your head that can be used to interpret what you’ve seen.

Bridge at North Bend, Oregon

The metaphors across the landscape keep coming, but how will I use this bridge to help fill the story of this third day exploring the coast? How about I give it a break and let you know that this bridge is being posted for no other reason than it is one of Caroline’s all-time favorite bridges as far as iron structure, color, form, and placement between land areas are concerned.

Horsfall Beach in North Bend, Oregon

This photo right here would have been a great finish to the day with a kind of Eye of Horus look of things, but we weren’t done with using every ounce of daylight that was offering us different perspectives of the universe around us.

Horsfall Beach in North Bend, Oregon

A portal or bay window on our spaceship is showing us the horizon of a distant planet. Instead of finding these views on the movie screen, we have opted to find them in reality.

South Umpqua Jetty in Winchester Bay, Oregon

That’s rain in the distance with the approaching storm blotting out our sun and our hope of seeing the stars. There’s a silver lining here (or gold in our case): if it rains, it’ll make our last night here at Umpqua Lighthouse all the better as the patter of raindrops on a canvas yurt is the elixir of sleep.

Oregon Coast 2019 – Day 2

Caroline Wise and John Wise on the Oregon Coast in 2019

When starting the day on an Oregon beach, we don’t need the sun to make our faces shine. These smiles are produced by location, love, and the thrill of being able to wear warm clothes that rarely come out of storage in Arizona. This is south of Face Rock in Bandon, the same stretch of beach we were on yesterday during the sunset.

This is European Beachgrass, an invasive species found here on the Oregon Coast. We only recently learned of its negative effects on the coastline and how it changes the habitat in some radical ways. Still, I find it beautiful.

With a good long walk down the beach, we feel better about heading out for breakfast. A few other people with dogs and a young couple with an enthusiastic toddler were the only others out here this morning. For decades, Caroline and I have seen the sad reality that given the option of waking late, staying cozy next to a TV, and minimizing the effort of getting out, people opt for just that. While this lazy behavior has offered us quiet walks on beaches from the North Sea to Hawaii, I still can’t help but lament how uninspired the general population feels to me, with empty beaches perfectly exemplifying our state of woeful affairs.

Stewart Lane seemed like a nice shortcut through the woods, but wouldn’t you know it that the not-so-trusty GPS maps that show the gravel road connecting to another backroad we’d like to take no longer goes through. So, was Stewart Lane a waste of time? Nope, we quite enjoy these little forays into the abyss of having gone nowhere.

That backroad we were just on that took us nowhere was supposed to connect to Lower Four Mile Lane, which looked like it might let us get to a section of the sea we’d never visited. By the end of the lane, we turned around, having failed to find access. Just as we were giving up, a small sign (not this one shown above) caught my eye that directed us to the Four Mile Creek Trail. Skirting the edge of private property (see above sign), we took a nice short walk towards the Pacific.

Four Mile Creek enters New River as seen standing on a giant piece of driftwood. This was about as far as we got as New River stopped us from venturing further. Had we brought a couple of handy dandy foldup kayaks with us, we could have crossed the narrow river over the island you can make out on the right. Instead, we stood around enjoying the sound of the crashing surf we couldn’t see and imagined the adventures that could have been had on the deserted island.

This is the biggest piece of driftwood we may have ever seen. This gray hunk of whale size tree is the hulking remnant of a Redwood. How’d this get so far up the coast from California, you might wonder? So did we.

It turns out there used to be Redwoods in Oregon, and supposedly, there’s still a very small grove tucked away, but due to people’s efforts to harvest every single tree of size, ensuring there are no old-growth forests remaining on earth, Oregon is no longer known as a place that is home to these majestic trees. A local told us this tree is rumored to have been sitting right here for about 100 years now. What a sad and tragic reminder of how quickly we are ready to despoil our lands and oceans in order to move money around.

This may look like where we just were, but it’s a mile down the road. It’s still the New River, but it’s in a section of the park that once was called the New River Nature Center but appears to be the New River A.C.E.C. now, which stands for Area of Critical Environmental Concern.

This is one of the few mushrooms that was still standing upright. While there are signs everywhere asking visitors not to harvest mushrooms, they are of little good as that is exactly what is happening here every day. What isn’t stolen by people looking for a cheap meal or sold to others is knocked over to spore more growth so the next harvest is better than the previous. While we were here, we saw a group of three people from California parked next to the road, one of the passengers getting out with a backpack disappearing off-trail into a thicket to poach mushrooms.

Fortunately, moss and lichen are not very palatable. While some are edible and are eaten by people in the Arctic, they are left alone by humans here along the coast.

If only the mushroom hunters would stock up on these and devour a toxic dose that would remove them from the gene pool. Leave the wild mushrooms for visitors to wildlands, you ugly thieves of nature, and give greater opportunity to tourists to find more reasons to return, thus leaving their dollars in your local community. The same goes for the clear-cut trees, but I’ve written about that before.

To someone walking along the path, this is a beautiful sight. It’s a rare sight that must be sought after, as the majority of trailside mushrooms have been kicked over and broken into 20 pieces.

Manzanita trees feel as amazing as they look. How we could walk by them and not stroke their luxuriously smooth surfaces is beyond my imagination because once you touch manzanita, the manzanita has stroked your senses.

Can you tell that I decided to bring the macro lens with me? Hmmm, did I already mention this in the previous entry? Oh well, so now you know for certain it is with me, and you should expect a few images that look at things in greater detail than previous blog entries about Oregon. Far too often, I’m focused on the landscape with a look to the ocean as we are entirely enchanted with those views, and having more of them for our memories is quite satisfying, but we also are in love with the many details we see in between along the way.

There are maybe a dozen large-sized cities on the 363-mile-long Oregon coast. The largest is Coos Bay, with about 16,000 people, so by large city standards, these are small towns. While the more typical nationwide chains have some presence out here, such as Starbucks, McDonald’s, and Walmart, we are never very far from nature. Once out on a trail or a quiet stretch of beach, it feels as though we are even further removed from the rush of city life, not that there’s a lot of that here anyway.

Finding the images that will feature not only the visual impact made by the many vistas but also those things that are integral parts of a complex landscape that is so much more than trees and ocean is a large part of my exercise. Just what needs to be seen that will fill the gaps of intricacies that are easily overlooked?

Branches reaching out leafless and white serve what purpose here in the forest? Do they have a method of using nutrients that offer a symbiotic relationship to some part of the ecosystem that is invisible to the casual observer? What are the light green golf tee looking like things? I think they are a fungus, but don’t really know.

Dendrites come to mind when looking at these branching arms.

Newts on trails seem like a bad mix but are welcome hiking buddies that make us smile. Astute readers will know that it’s likely everything we see puts smiles on our faces. If I think about that for more than the second it takes to write such optimistic thoughts, I’d have to take pause and find honesty that litter and dog shit definitely do not put smiles on our faces; scowls come to mind.

The dock at Port Orford would be the one southerly point on the coast we try to get to if we are within 50 miles of it. In bad weather, this spot is a dynamic churn of chaos that has astonished us with its fury. During calm seas, the idea of heading out of the small bay for a day of fishing is an attractive fantasy that maybe one day we could be heading out with a local skipper. Behind me is Griffs on the Dock, which serves up some decent seafood, and on my side are some water tanks where a local entrepreneur has taken to growing red dulse, which is an edible alga.

Most of these fishing boats have been here for years and the majority of them we recognize from year to year. One of the guys who captains the red one there in the middle of them all told us how the boat to his right is owned by his brother. That turquoise boat was rescued from salvage for a steal after it had flipped and bobbed in the surf, tearing it mostly apart a bit further up the coast. We were talking to him as we noticed that for the past couple of years, the crab pots that are usually on the dock haven’t been out. He informed us that the season has been getting a later and later start due to the small size of crabs that need to reach a certain size to harvest.

It’s kind of funny that for the many times we’ve been down here on this dock, we’ve never seen one of these boats in the water. Maybe we could time a future visit to coincide with them pulling a boat or two out of the water.

Humbug Mountain is about 50 miles north of California, and it is the furthest point south we’ll travel on this vacation. We’ve been meaning to climb the trail up this bulwark even though we’ve read it doesn’t offer any spectacular views, but to date haven’t been able to fit it in. On another occasion, we had the time but didn’t have the gear for the amount of rain that was coming down.

When we pulled over on the north end of the mountain next to the road, we jumped over a barrier that keeps cars from careening off the cliff, though there are plenty of other locations to do just that if this were your inclination. Expecting dirt and trash, we were surprised by the moss and something else that I’ll show you after the next photo of a sunset.

I could have skipped this gratuitous inclusion of yet another sunset photo as there’s another that shares some similarity to this one, but the warmth, clouds, golden glow, and fog in the distance are so enchanting I just had to share it.

Bear tracks. We had no idea that we’d ever really see bear tracks this close to the ocean and on a cliffside next to the road, that means it had to cross that highway to get over here.

So the story behind the inclusion of this sunset photo that shares some resemblance with the one above is that this one has Brush Creek illuminated by the setting sun, and Caroline insisted I take this photo for her.

Here we are back in Port Orford because one can never visit this town too often. The particular stop is at Battle Rock Wayside and is the same place Caroline lost her phone on a previous visit.

This is why one can never visit Battle Rock Wayside too often. The timing of being here at low tide for sunset was not planned for. Other than where we are staying, there was no fixed itinerary for what we might be doing while up here in Oregon. The hope is to find new things to do should we realize that we’ve visited a particular location one too many times, but like all previous visits, we drop in on our familiar haunts with all the enthusiasm as though it’s the very first time we’ve ever seen the place.

I’d swear Caroline is in another world when she’s at the ocean. I’d love to know her perspective and how she sees this seascape in front of her. While I look for photos, sounds, words, and other things to record in my mind to convey here at some future date should I find the time, Caroline is over somewhere else searching and observing her happy place in a way I can never fully appreciate. She’s never gone long, I should point out, as we reconnect every few minutes and then walk together for a while, sharing a kiss, a hug, a snuggle, an exchange of words that profess our love for each other.

Are these the same gooseneck barnacles we’ve seen here before? The likelihood is pretty good that they are, as some barnacles can live as long as ten years.

At home in Phoenix, Caroline works hard and often long hours but one of the luxuries of having committed so much to learn to do what she does is that she usually has great benefits. While health care takes greater and greater importance in our lives as we age towards our 60’s it is time off that is the best reward. Knowing how to use that rare commodity for things other than the mundane becomes our greatest treasure, and getting out for traveling is the best use of that time we know. If Caroline could correct me here on the blog, she would likely add that having time at home for weaving, spinning, knitting, and other fiber-related arts is also of importance to her.

One of our encounters where the smiles at the situation become too much to bear for one person, and to balance the load we reach out to each other and blurt something or other out about how lucky we are or how much we love each other. There’s a lot of telling each other how much love we feel and how happy we are to be out here once again.

Starfish were in short supply on our last couple of visits, but they have bounced back this year. The tide also appears to be one of the lowest we’ve ever witnessed here. These windows into coastal life are extraordinary but could be so much more interesting if Oregon were to recognize the value of knowledge sharing out here and give us digital docents so we could listen to audio tours of information regarding each section of the coast we are visiting. Explain to us how clear-cutting helps the environment or business or whatever. Give us info about the wildlife refuges and estuaries. Bring in marine biologists to tell the stories of the ebb and flow of habitats and species.

If this isn’t a sexy pose, I don’t know what is. It looks kinda hot, huh?

Chitons are the kevlar of the sea. At least, I’m fairly sure they are bulletproof. This type is known as Katharina Tunicata or, more commonly, the black Katy chiton. I’ve read they were good eating by indigenous California tribes but how they are harvested is beyond me.

As I said, we’ve never seen the water this low. By now, we are only enjoying the setting sun as checking out the wildlife has grown more difficult in the fading light.

We took a good long time to leave the Battle Rock Wayside here at Port Orford, even though we knew we had a long drive ahead of us. Not too long but long enough, plus we would need to stop for dinner.

Dinner was back in Coos Bay and was another forgettable meal at a place not worth mentioning, but we’re not here for culinary delights. Our lodging this evening is close to the Umpqua Lighthouse in the state park that bears its name. This is our first night in a yurt on this trip; two nights will be spent right here while we’ll be in various yurts for a total of five nights this week. While it’s difficult to see in this photo when it’s presented so small, there are many a star in the sky this evening. What else can’t be shared is the strange silence of the light penetrating the night sky and illuminating the fog and flashing on the trees as the light turns. Somehow, it feels like the two white and one red light should have some kind of tone or pulsing sound as it slices through the darkness.

Oregon Coast 2019 – Day 1

Glass ornament at Sassy Onion Cafe in Salem, Oregon

Up earlyish and gone soon afterward. Frozen and mostly dark as we pulled away, the horizon was just showing the first signs of the approaching dawn. Without a window scraper, we waited for the car to warm so the windshield wipers could do the work of clearing the view. While we sat there we realized how luxurious those seat warmers in our own car can be; this is part of the price we pay for renting the cheapest car on the lot.

With no interest in Portland today, though I’d swear Voodoo was telepathically signaling me to stop in for a breakfast of maple bacon donuts, we got onto Interstate 5 for the trek south. It’s 34 degrees of cold, with fog filling the space between. Our need for coffee is demanding a stop in Salem to re-caffeinate our nervous systems.

Our stop in the state capital is at the Sassy Onion; our server is Michelle. We learn that she’s been here for nine years and is the mom of a 1-year-old baby. The handmade glass ornaments that went up overnight are made by the owners over the course of the year just for the approaching holiday season. Breakfast was great without a single negative, such as the abundance of hipsters we’d have had to compete with for a table had we eaten in Portland. If you want to blurt out loud that this writer sounds like a grumpy old man with a chip on his shoulder, go ahead, as I am likely quite a bit of that by now.

Driving south on Interstate 5 in central Oregon

Nearly the entirety of our drive down Interstate 5 was under a blanket of heavy fog which was of no matter to us as our goal was getting to the coast with as little distraction as possible. Not far from our turnoff on Highway 38, the weather started to clear, likely because the universe wanted us to have a great welcome when we finally reached the coast.

Umpqua River along Highway 38 in Oregon

This being our 18th visit to Oregon, we finally learned how to pronounce Umpqua, which is the name of the river seen here in front of my lens. It’s pronounced with an emphasis on the “U” with a sound like “umpire” instead of the are pronouncing it like the “U” sound in “soup.” At this point, you should take note of our weather conditions as we have. One never knows what will be just around the corner.

Wetland next to Umpqua River in Oregon

And it was surprising that the sign that suggested we were in an elk crossing area meant that we’d really see elk, but that’s just what happened. I wasn’t armed with the right lens for capturing them in the distance, but the meadow they live in was so beautiful that it required a stop for entering another image into our long-term memories of just what we’ve witnessed out here in America.

Antique Loom at Timber Faller's Daughter in Reedsport, Oregon

In Reedsport and looking forward to encountering the ocean in a few minutes Caroline spotted a yarn store. It may as well have been a lightbulb in the middle of the night and her a moth. We made a U-turn because there was no other choice, but luck would have it that the shop was closed with no explanation why it was so on a day it was supposed to be open. Next door was an open shop with this old loom in the window, so Caroline dipped in to find out if the yarn shop might open later.

This hoped-for shopping moment was more utility than just desire as Caroline needed some reinforcing thread for a pair of socks she was knitting for me while on our coastal visit. While inside the neighbor’s place called Timber Faller’s Daughter, the owner of this shop tried texting the other lady, but there was no answer. Well, luck was still with us as she told us that she was down in Coos Bay visiting the First Annual Chowder Festival, so while we might not get the thread, we are hoping to find the Chowder Fest.

Caroline Wise on the Oregon Coast

At the coast in the sun, who could ask for more? It’s nice to be out here on the Pacific Ocean in Oregon and not to feel any sense of urgency that we have somewhere we need to be. With nine days to enjoy ourselves while covering 230 miles between Bandon and Cannon Beach, we only need to cover about 25 miles on average, though with trips up and down the coast at various times of the day depending on what we want and where it’s at it we’ll likely drive a considerable amount more. The point is we have reservations for every night we’re out here, but nothing else is pressing, and if plans had to change, we’d simply adjust the schedule. For now, we’ll take our time as we meander slowly down the coast for the 50ish miles we have left today.

North Bend, Oregon

Coos Bay, with the McCollough Memorial Bridge in the distance on the left, is one of our favorite views. Okay, so that’s just a little disingenuous as we’d be hard-pressed not to admit that everywhere we look on this coast are views that are our favorites.

Veterans Memorial Wayside in North Bend, Oregon

Our stop at Coos Bay is at the David Dewitt Veterans Memorial. Today, there are stones with messages on them laying atop some of the bricks, noting people from the area who’ve died in various wars. Not only does this display grab our attention, but so does one of the larger markers with the following engraving:

“There shall not be Peace until the Power of Love overcomes the Love of Power.” – From a latrine wall at Pleiku, Vietnam in 1968

North Bend, Oregon

Since we entered Reedsport, we’ve been in the Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area that stretches over 40 miles south. ATVs and OHVs are the primary means of transport on the dunes, and for those who may not know, ATV stands for an all-terrain vehicle, while OHV is an off-highway vehicle. Even in fall and winter, the dunes are a popular place for people to race around along the ocean as they careen about the sand at all times, day and night. If you don’t own one of these vehicles and you are on a visit to Oregon from another country or you are coming from somewhere that makes it difficult to drag it with you, there are plenty of places to rent these things along the coast.

Blue Heron Bistro in Coos Bay, Oregon

In the city of Coos Bay, we found the difficult-to-find location of the First Annual Chowder Competition. The event was running from 10:00 to 4:00 p.m. with chowder tasting from 11:00 to 3:00 p.m. For $10, visitors were able to taste nine different preparations of clam chowder. There were supposed to be 11 participating vendors, but two bailed out at the last minute, we heard. The nine we tried were not simple iterations of a theme; there were some significant differences between everyone’s play on this old coastal favorite. Our favorite, though, goes to the gentleman above, who is the owner of the Blue Heron Bistro right here in Coos Bay. Turns out that he’s the new owner of the restaurant that specializes in German food.

Driftwood Farms Yarn from Reedsport, Oregon

We met Jessica Shrag, one of the owners of Driftwood Farms up in Reedsport, who also happened to have set up a small booth at the chowder competition, which I should have pointed out is also a Craft Bazaar. The colorway of yarn in the center of the photo will be a new pair of socks for me someday. I wouldn’t be surprised if they don’t happen until a return to Oregon in 2020 or while on a trip to Europe.

Charleston, Oregon

Opting for the scenic route via Charleston and not Highway 101, we are able to make the obligatory first visit to the water’s edge.

Crab Pot in Bar View, Oregon

While Caroline combed the beach searching for treasure, I headed down a pier where a father and son were walking to haul up some crab pots. The little four or five-year-old kid was fearless as he grabbed small crabs from their back legs and tossed them off the pier back into the water as they were too young for harvest.

Bandon Marsh in Bandon, Oregon

We are visiting the Bandon Marsh National Wildlife Refuge and the Ni-les’tun Unit specifically. I decided to bring along my macro lens so I could capture some different views of things here on the coast. Mostly, I seem to focus on landscapes, and I’m sure they’ll make up the bulk of what I’ll be sharing over these nine days, but at least I might have some variety of details. We stopped at the refuge because, with all the time we’ve spent in this area we’ve never paid a visit here.

Bandon Marsh in Bandon, Oregon

The colors of fall are here at the refuge, though they are mostly tans, with a lot of green still dotting the open land. We are here by ourselves, though a gunshot in the distance lets us know that someone is likely hunting birds on the refuge. The sound was far enough away and was from a shotgun, so we were not too worried about some high-powered rifle shot zinging past our heads.

Bandon Marsh in Bandon, Oregon

There are not a lot of birds out here; maybe they’re all dead. There’s not a lot of water either, so as far as this being a wildlife refuge is concerned, we may not be as impressed as we would be if we were visiting at the right time of year, whenever that might be.

Shore grass at sunset in Bandon, Oregon

Checked into Windermere Hotel in Bandon and learned that our room has been upgraded to a fireplace room with a king bed and patio from the no-frills cheapo room we’d booked as it wasn’t finished being renovated. Lucky us. Before fetching some dinner down in Port Orford, we had to go for a walk to take advantage of the early sunset.

Caroline Wise at Sunset in Bandon, Oregon

Caroline’s happy place. Nothing likely beats the sounds, smells, and feelings to all the senses as we walk on wet sand towards the crashing ocean as sunlight glistens on the surface of the water and reflects off the wet sand. Shorebirds come and go with about the same frequency as a couple of other people out here with us. We find it peculiar that in such a spectacular place, we can ever be nearly alone for as far as the eye can see on pristine beaches such as these.

Bandon, Oregon

As for where exactly we are, this is in south Bandon and south of the famous Face Rock that sits just offshore. This small town on the southern coast is the first popular landing place for visitors coming up from California. So why am I posting a photo of a small blob of seafoam? Well, because it was moving around like it had a mind of its own and kind of looked like an amoeba. Now, it’s available for our memories for the rest of our lives.

Sunset in Bandon, Oregon

Shortly before 5:00 p.m., the sun closes up shop and goes home for the night. As for us, we’ll get into the car for the 30-minute drive south to Port Orford for our 6:30 p.m. reservation at Red Fish Restaurant. The food was pretty good, on the verge of excellent, and definitely one of the best, if not the best, food on the south coast.

Our first day here on the coast feels complete with a sense we used every available minute for things that gave us value for each penny of investment it takes to put ourselves out here. There was nothing to change, no lament, no surly staff or angry people in our encounters. Tomorrow will surely be just as amazing.