Day 28 – Wattenmeer 2021

Husum, Germany

It’s a cold, 55-degree (13c), gray morning, and, for the sake of convenience, I inconvenienced myself. Rain is expected throughout the day until early evening, and while at the last minute, I decided to wear pants instead of shorts as I was certain I could deal with some cool weather and drizzle, I’m still in the hotel room as Klaus is out searching for a shop I can buy a cheap sweater and rain jacket for just this one day. Tomorrow and Wednesday promise boundless sun and warm temperatures if you consider 63 degrees (17c) warm.

Certainly, I’m not only in the room for this reason; writing has to continue as well. I fear falling behind even for hours would lead to a cascade into doom, and I could never catch up and I could simply enjoy the break and only focus on the moment. Foolish, you might say, thinking I should always be in the moment? I’d argue that my contradictory position is that I’m always in the moment but with a forbearance that strengthens my resolve to be intentional. I cannot tell you if constant writing offers me anything meaningful at the end of the day or will have done so by the end of my life, but I believe that my focus on what I’m doing as I do it must have sharpened my ability to see and retain what I will share later.

Husum, Germany

Klaus texted me about a shop that was open early, and so I walked over to meet him there. Rain jackets for 60 to 200 Euros ($70 – $237) weren’t what I had in mind, and as it is “summer,” there are very few long sleeve warm shirts in stock right now either. Nothing left to do but get a coffee and wait for the other shops to open at 11:00.

Janny's Eis Kaffee in Husum, Germany

Janny’s Eis-Kaffee has indoor seating along with coffee and ice cream, so that’s where we parked ourselves. Taking a table, we were surrounded by kayaking pictures, but it was this large setup that grabbed our attention and elicited deep laughter from me. In the U.S., you can’t use the word “Fuck!” on the wall of an ice cream shop that kids will obviously visit. But you can in Husum, at least if you are 57-year-old Freya Hoffmeister, who owns Janny’s along with another Eis-Kaffee on the harbor in Husum, and she’s a badass. Freya has circumnavigated Iceland, New Zealand, Australia, Ireland, and South America and is now on a 10-year 50,000-kilometer (31,000 miles) first-ever circumnavigation of North America – all by kayak! In 2015, she was named the National Geographic Adventurer of the Year. Gobsmacked is not a strong enough word to share the WOW factor she inspires.

Tomorrow, I start advertising fish sticks for my new gig as a spokesperson for a fish company selling convenience. This rain jacket (nostalgically known as “Friesennerz” or “Frisian Mink Coat” in Germany) is so heavy I’ve decided I can find warmth in this and will forego a layer for the sole reason of saving money on things I don’t want to carry back to Arizona though this rain jacket is going home even if I have to ship it back. Now I’m ready to face the cold, wet day.

Good thing we checked on what food options exist out on the island of Pellworm that we are visiting today because we won’t have any with the limited time we’ll be there.

We’d like to be on the island for a longer time, but the ferry that takes us on the 30-minute crossing doesn’t run so frequently, apparently only 3 or 4 times a day, and first, we’ll have to catch the bus that requires 40 minutes to take us to the ferry launch.

So instead of leaving right away, we have a good hour to spend, and where better to do that than in a warm, dry building? This is my second time visiting the Schiffahrtsmuseum here in Husum; the first time was with Caroline. It’s tragic that I’m so close to Denmark on the north German coast and can’t find Danish Poon and will instead have to satisfy myself with this Dutch Poon.

From poon to buttplugs, I thought this was a ship museum, not a toy store for my friend Brinn?

It was April 2013 when we first passed through this area of Germany as we wandered without a plan on a trip that was a spontaneous jump into the rental car. We had to go somewhere while in Germany for the first time in 18 years, so why not north? We’d traveled back to Caroline’s birthland because Jutta had broken her hip, and seeing that broken hips can be fatal for the frail and infirm, both of which my mother-in-law could be considered, we left for Germany right away. Luckily, Jutta recovered very well, allowing us a couple of multi-day jaunts into the areas we had not been to before, such as the Wattenmeer.

If you want to see more from that visit to this very place eight years ago, click the link in the previous paragraph. Back then I shared a photo of this entire shipwreck that was dug out of the mud nearby. It’s a 400-year-old relic and one of those things I never thought I’d see with my own eyes a second time in my life.

During that other visit, I pointed out that we had a rental car; Klaus and I, on the other hand, came up from Frankfurt on the train and are now heading to Pellworm Island on the bus. Stopping for photos is out of the question, as is getting off the bus and just grabbing the next one.

With a few minutes to spare before we left, I thought it was a good time to grab a photo of myself as, without Caroline here, there doesn’t really seem to be a great reason for selfies, but I have to admit that I do enjoy an occasional visual reminder that I was in the place I’ve taken so many photos and written so many words that were shared here.

Klaus Engelhardt on his way to Pellworm at the Wattenmeer in northern Germany

Cold and rainy didn’t matter to my brother-in-law Klaus as he, too, was enjoying the quiet cool of being somewhere different for the first time this year.

We have two hours before the last ferry of the day returns visitors to the mainland. We hopped on a bus to take us to the old harbor, which must be the center of town. There’s really nothing here. If there’s another village on this island that has a larger population and more historic buildings, it’ll have to wait for a subsequent visit, as we didn’t feel we had enough time to get out to the lighthouse either.

So we walked through the small number of buildings, happy to be here at the end of the rain.

There was a Friesian horse in this pasture, too, but it was not going to pose for a photo, so you get these two beauties instead.

This is the old harbor.

And this is the other end of the old harbor.

This is a traditional Frisian house with thatched roof.

And a close-up of a window.

From the Old Harbor, we started our walk back to the ferry dock. So, should you ever decide to visit Pellworm, do not take the last ferry to the island, and whatever you do, bring a bike or rent one.

We barely got here, and the island is already saying goodbye.

If you told me that there were more sheep on Pellworm than people, I’d believe you. This got me thinking that Google might have answers for that, and so upon searching I learned that there are about 1,200 people here, 2,000 cows, and about 3,000 sheep.

To be a sheep living on a dike eating grass all the time next to the sea sounds like a great life until you get to the slaughter part.

As for being a human living on the island, I’ve heard the weather up this way is harsh. Unless you farm, teach school, or run a shop or restaurant, I think the means to make money are rather limited. Maybe an Airbnb for a month up this way could be in our future?

That or grow a thick coat of wool and just hang out here like this chill sheep.

While at the Old Harbor, there was a measuring stick on high ground showing six floods from 1573 to 1976, with the 3rd of January 1976 being the most recent, with water 4.74 meters high or 15.5 feet over normal. If it wasn’t for the protective levees that have been continually raised, most of the island would have been underwater.

We were moving too fast back to the ferry, with a good 30 minutes between our expected arrival and the departure back to Husum. Obviously, there was nowhere else to go.

We’ve seen oystercatchers yesterday and today but none as aggressive as about the half-dozen that were circling us. Were we near their nests? Were they simply excited to see people where there are so few?

On the left of the photo is the lighthouse we would have liked to visit.

Four cars and maybe half a dozen humans were the cargo making the 30-minute return journey across the shallow sea. Back in Husum, we had dinner at Fischrestaurant Wiesendanger, and while the fish was great, it was the broccoli cream soup with smoked salmon that was the big winner, especially on such a cold, wet day.

Exhausted, we were back in the hotel before 10:00 and asleep minutes after that. Tomorrow we are looking at nice weather and a warm-up to 17 Celsius. I hope that’s warm enough, as I’m not wearing that giant raincoat on an 80-kilometer (50-mile) bike ride.

Day 23 – Goodbye Bornheim-Mitte

Frühstück at Eifler Bakery in Bornheim-Mitte Frankfurt, Germany

After living at Saalburgstrasse 46 in Bornheim-Mitte, Frankfurt, for 23 days now, it’s time to wave goodbye. While there’s a chance Caroline and I will be in the area again someday for one reason or another, it is time to move on now. I might even have a thing or two to finish up here tomorrow, some minor cleaning maybe, but tonight, I’ll be staying in Heddenheim north of here. While I have this romantic notion of still coming to the bakery I’ve been visiting every day, the journey over here requires three trains or at least one train and about 2 miles of walking. If I listen to my own advice, it’s probably healthier to discover another place and let this one go.

The one thing that was missing in the apartment was a refrigerator and stove that would have allowed me to cook my own food in order to afford me a bit more immersion, though I don’t know where I would have discovered the time to do that. Going out to eat every day has been okay as by having so much bread and potatoes, I’ve been more aware of my need to walk that stuff off, but I’ve also indulged in a crazy amount of Grüne Sosse and a good amount of Döner, so there is that upside. All the same, I would have enjoyed buying some fresh food (beyond some fruit and a couple of bratwursts) from the open-air Wednesday market to prepare myself.

Flower display in Frankfurt, Germany

Two hours after sitting down to breakfast, writing the above, and laboring over what I wrote the day before, it’s time to finish my coffee, take advantage of the free toilet, and figure out what my next steps are. I know, I’m going to get on a train to Oberursel for a walk in the Taunus mountains. Okay, maybe not exactly that; I’ll go check out the train schedule and possibilities before I fix this idea.

Jutta Engelhardt and John Wise on the Main River in Frankfurt, Germany

Well, that idea was scratched for a minute as with the heat coming up today, I thought that seeing Jutta earlier and taking a short walk to the river would be the better idea and so that’s what I did. Our visit was only long enough for her to read a few paragraphs from yesterday’s blog post that pertained to her and then our brief visit to sit next to the Main River. I had to get her back to Lebenshaus as they were serving lunch outside in the garden, and I wasn’t going to be able to take her with me, so by 11:45, I was once again on my way.

Train in Frankfurt on the Main, Germany

Like the animal crossing signs in America where nobody ever sees a moose, elk, deer, donkey, or tortoise, I had thought this rail crossing sign was a relic from a time when maybe there was a scenic slow-moving train that made its way up and down the bank next to the Main River, but then we heard the train whistle. I had to grab the camera and jump in order to catch this rare sight, well, at least for me, as I’d never seen a train here on this track. The composition isn’t great, but when you have a split second to capture the rare mountain lion crossing the road, you don’t ask it to pose; you just get a photo in the hopes you might prove that such a creature was witnessed by your own eyes.  This is proof that the train track running along the river in Frankfurt is still operational.

On the train in Frankfurt, Germany

When I arrived at Hauptwache and checked the train schedule, it turned out that the U3 to Oberursel / Hohemark was a good bet. With 10 minutes to spare, I even had time to have my first Frikadelle on Brötchen of this trip before heading downstairs to jump on the train.

Taunus Mountains in Germany

A dozen or so stops later, I was at the trailhead into the Taunus mountains just across the street from the train. For accuracy, I should point out that Waldlust is not where I got off the train; it is the stop just before. I took this photo from the train because it said Waldlust. Well, I had to smile as, in my brain, this translates to “intense desire or passion for the forest” or “Forest Desire.”

Taunus Mountains in Germany

I asked for a walk that would take about two hours, and that’s just what I was directed to. The Heidetränk-Oppidum Celtic Circular Trail was perfect, but as nice as it was, it was the fact that I only passed one other person on the trail that made it special. When I lived in Germany and even before coming over for this trip, Caroline warned me that the Taunus trails can be incredibly busy as people flock here to breathe the fresh air of Frankfurt’s “green lung.”

Taunus Mountains in Germany

But today, on a day that the population was grumbling about the sudden turn to exceedingly hot weather (88 degrees or 31c while in Phoenix, where we live, Caroline has to contend with 100 degrees or 38c at midnight), I guess that going into nature is too much to ask so everyone stops what they are doing so they can survive “Frankfurt Mega-Heat Wave 2021 – Global Warming Edition”

Me on the other hand, I am like the moss. I have no choice but to be out in the elements.

Taunus Mountains in Germany

Foxglove, ladyglove, or digitalis purpurea, whatever it’s called, this brightly colored plant was everywhere in open areas of the forest.

Taunus Mountains in Germany

There’s something hidden in plain view here that would have been unmissable about 2,100 years ago. It’s why this trail is called the Heidetränk-Oppidum.

View from Taunus Mountains in Germany

It’s a hazy, hot day in the Frankfurt area, and the grand view of the skyline of the city in the distance on the right is diminished because of the weather, but that’s okay, as this walk took me far away from any crowds.

Taunus Mountains in Germany

But enough of that, time for a history lesson as much as I can craft one from Wikipedia, where the information I’m finding is rather thin. What is known is that this site is one of the older Celtic sites in the area (the largest in the state of Hessen) and once had a 10km (6 miles) wall around it. Oppidum is the Latin word for “town” or “settlement,” and Heidetränk refers to the specific location.

Taunus Mountains in Germany

Signs of the wall can still be seen, though they are so eroded that they are bumps on the landscape like you might be able to see here. The walk itself is 4.3km (2.7 miles), which takes you past just some of what remains. Sixteen interpretive signs are scattered along the trail, but to gain a better understanding of what was here, a visit to the Vortaunus Museum in Oberursel is probably in order. Hey Caroline, do you know of any good books about the Celtic culture of early Europe? We need to add it to our reading list.

Taunus Mountains in Germany

There are no ruins remaining here in the forest; due to erosion, theft, and vandalism, the area hardly retains the features that just 150 years ago were still visible. This opens up another distraction in the curiosity of John going about the world. I can see visiting a number of Celtic sites, such as I recently did with Boris down in Heidelberg, and going to museums to see the artifacts of what they created and left behind so that I might paint a better picture of who these early Europeans were. My knowledge of the history of Germany is pretty limited; first, about a long time ago, there were Neanderthals, they were replaced by Barbarians, then came the scientists and philosophers, followed by Nazis, and finally, BMWs and Techno. Stephanie informs me that there was a period with Romans; who knew?

Taunus Mountains in Germany

Back off the mountains, I needed to make up for not taking a bottle of water with me. Just behind the info center is a small restaurant, so I had my first bottle of Taunusquelle Medium Mineral Water. The train awaits my arrival, or maybe it doesn’t, and the next one will just leave, and I have to wait for up to 15 minutes for the next one.

In the city, I had to return to Bornheim-Mitte once more as I worked to finish my goodbye to the area. Jutta’s apartment is in the final stages of being emptied before getting a fresh paint job. I dragged out as much furniture as I could by myself as Klaus and Stephanie made their way across town to help with some of the remaining things, like the kitchen sink and medicine cabinet in the bathroom You see, in Germany, the fixtures and appliances (other than the radiator heating system, toilet, and shower) all leave when a resident moves out. There are no closets because those are not built into dwellings; you bring your own. With the heavy stuff moved over to the street side for the scheduled pickup of heavy household things set for Thursday, it was time for the three of us to get dinner.

Based on my recommendation, we visited Zum Blauen Bock German restaurant just a short walk from Jutta’s apartment. No, I did not have Grüne Sosse. After nearly three hours at dinner, we finally drove over to Heddernheim, my new home away from home. Tired as hell, what did I do? Stephanie and I stayed up until 2:00 chatting; that’s what I did.

Day 19 – Go Nowhere Day

So, I didn’t exactly go nowhere as I dove deep into my imagination to finish yesterday’s blog entry, and then there were those essentials like eating that required me to leave the apartment. But don’t let me fool you if I sidetrack this blog post and fill it with lies that somehow I had a grand adventure all the same. Though, let’s be honest, writing as much as I did today and editing what I wrote yesterday was exactly what I might expect from a grand adventure, so excuse my contradictions.

This is the first-ever photo of Klaus and me together. Klaus is my brother-in-law, and he’s also a solid guy who’s been absolutely key in helping Jutta make her ten trips to the United States from 1996 to 2013. Since 2013, when my mother-in-law broke her hip, he and my sister-in-law Stephanie have hosted us in their home on every visit we’ve made. As a matter of fact, Klaus is the second reason I’m in Germany at the beginning of summer, and Jutta is the first reason. You see, Klaus has shouldered a lot of responsibility in caring for family, managing the main family assets, and helping Katharina as she moves through university. Klaus had to deal with his own mother’s belongings after she passed back in 2013, and now he’s been dealing with many of the details regarding Jutta’s effects, and I felt if I could be of any help, I’d make it happen to be here.

Klaus and I have never really taken the time to get to know one another, but this trip has given us a small window to learn a little more about where each other is coming from. Today, he and I not only took care of more of Jutta’s history that she can no longer keep with her, but we went shopping and just talked about stuff.

The first stop on our morning adventure was over at the Bornheim-Mitte open-air market, Saturday version. Before we could shop for a thing, Klaus needed breakfast, so we hit a small cafe that had just one table open; it was now ours. Sitting down for a bite to eat and some coffee seems simple but after more than 25 years of being brothers-in-law, this was only the second time we’ve done this. The first time was just a couple of weeks ago. We were at this market to pick up fruit and some veggies while other things required a proper grocery.

REWE grocery store was where he went next. On my first visit just a few days prior I was astonished that such a beautiful large building could be built right here in the middle of a residential neighborhood. I wondered what could have been torn out or was there a grocery store here before? Klaus clarified things by letting me know that this had at one time been a depot for some of the trams that make their way over the streets of Frankfurt. Ah, now I can see the railyard influence I was oblivious to a minute before.

Yeah, I told you about Dick Milk in a previous post as being key to Grüne Sosse; well, here it is so you know I’m not joking about such a serious subject. Just how many men have to be milked to collect such amounts boggles the imagination.

I tripped, and I don’t mean yesterday’s visits to those churches. I’m talking about all of the eggs in this store sitting on the shelf. What’s so peculiar about that, you ask? The shelf is NOT a refrigerated shelf; these eggs could just be on your countertop. Klaus pointed out that they will be fine there until the 19th, a week away, then they need to be refrigerated and are good until the 25th. I told him how, in America, if eggs were left out for more than 30 minutes, most of us would probably throw them away. Relating this to Caroline, she informed her occasionally doltish husband that it’s because our eggs are washed because Americans are squeamish about blemishes that might be on the egg in the form of chicken poop or blood. Because Germans don’t wash their eggs, they have a protective coating that they are laid with that keeps them fresh. I swear that, at times, I feel like an idiot.

There’s really nothing special about this display of cheeses sure, they are all for grilling, as grilled cheeses are popular in Germany and, I’m sure, elsewhere, but it’s a small reminder to me that food should rotate in and out of our lives instead of relying on staples we eat for a lifetime.

Keeping with the theme of variations of products we grow accustomed to, look at these bratwursts. At first blush, you may not realize it, but these are not your ordinary grilling brats. A couple of them are just kinda weird, but I’ve not tried them, so who knows? On the far left are Grüne Sosse brats, and towards the right are Handkasewursts; the wild ones are wild boar, the ones from Wetterau take influence from a region north of Frankfurt, while the package with a sheep on it that says Lamm is lamb.

This image is a torturous reminder of what might have been our favorite stoner food when Caroline and I lived in Frankfurt: veggie fingers. Like fish sticks, except with veggies and no longer with cheese, because their veganness demands no animal products are used to make these, I’m sure that after a couple of bong rips, these Gemüsestäbchen would still be ace!

These are posted only to make Caroline pine about one of her favorite food items ever: rhubarb. When we moved to America and discovered Prairie Home Companion, Caroline found her anthem in Bebob-a-Rebop Rhubarb Pie, and finally, the protest songs lost their place in her heart.

The early 80s called Caroline and wanted their protest songs back after I divulged her loyalty to rhubarb instead of the scene, and here they are being handed off to the official state agency that handles those things no longer relevant, thus also removing a cultural threat to the future. Goodbye Bots.

Klaus and I visited a couple of used record shops to see if anyone wanted Jutta’s record collection. The first shop only collected guitar music with the requirement that “Your parents had to hate it.” This nice enough guy suggested we try around the corner because that shop specializes in classical and jazz. We explained the situation and were invited to take his dolly so we could load up the two large boxes of records and bring them back easier. Seriously, who does that in America? Anyway, he took all the records after checking out the titles to be sure there wasn’t a million-dollar record among them. Again, this kind of honesty is amazing to me.

At this very moment, I started writing about today, Day 19, here on the 12th of June, 2021. It is now just after 8:00 p.m. and I’m once again hungry and must take myself out of here to find what will only get more difficult to acquire as the night goes on. But be it delusion or euphoria, I feel in the flow of goofing around in front of the screen and keyboard that are recording me. That, though, has to be contended with as I do not operate on joy alone.

When I finally went out for dinner, Bergerstrasse was packed, and impossible to find a table, so I gave up. The Italian joint where I ate a lunch of Carbonara the other day wasn’t very interesting either, that left Blauen Bock at the corners of Neebstrasse and Saalburgstrasse. I had avoided this on a previous visit to Germany as I walked into their dining room, and the place was so thick with cigarette smoke I would never believe they could serve a good meal, but for a drink, it was probably a place worth visiting. I don’t drink. Anyway, here I am, and food is starting to arrive, beginning with Handkäse mit Musik because, of course just that, and after this appetizer, Grüne Sosse with extra Dick milk.

Day 18 – Travel Day

See this happy face? It’s a mask of naivety. About to leave for the day, I’ve got my laptop slung over my shoulder, my camera is obviously in my left hand, the ablutions are finished, and I’m excited to be on a rail trip that will take me on a new adventure to places I’ve never been. I’ll take lots of photos and, hopefully, an adequate amount of notes to minimize what I’ll be dealing with later this day and tomorrow morning. Well, here I am a day later (no, not in the photo; that really was me getting ready to leave on Friday morning), and I’m confronted with 63 photos and over 2,700 words pasted in between the images and there are still 43 photos that don’t have a word below them. What this suggests is that while I’ll likely pare some images, I probably will have about 4,300 to roughly 6,000 more words to add. Do you really have time for some seven to nine thousand words, even just scrolling past them?

I’m WARNING  you now: skip this blog post unless you are interested in more self-indulgent blathering from an undisciplined, narcissistic cultural sycophant.

Late Edit: While I didn’t cut a single image from this post, it is at a much more palatable word count of just under 6,000 of them pesky things. 

Speaking barely enough German to get by is one thing, but when it comes to reading German, I’m at a serious disadvantage as I can’t gesticulate wildly and talk louder to a machine. So, did I buy the right pass for my train journey that said it was good for five people? No idea, but when the ticket control officer comes around, I might learn the details of what this is, and hopefully not a hard lesson.

If I have the correct ticket, and even if I don’t, I’m going to Wetzlar, and from there, I’ll decide if I’m going west to Limburg or east to Fulda. What I am certain of is that in Giessen, I need to change trains to the RE99 in the direction of the Siegen Hauptbahnhof. I was about to look up what sights can be seen in Siegen, but this train doesn’t have wifi, yet. So I checked on my phone and thought Siegen might hold promise, but then I thought about what state it might be in; my “Hessen” ticket certainly doesn’t cover North Rhine-Westphalia, so check Siegen off the list.

Well, my ticket is correct and incorrect as it isn’t valid until 9:00 a.m., but after that, I’m good. I was advised to hang out in Giessen until 9:00 and then jump on my train to Wetzlar as the next control officer might not be so friendly and could fine me 60 Euros for the mistake. I have to wonder why the RMV app would offer me an invalid option when I was trying to buy a ticket for a 7:19 a.m. departure and why doesn’t the app have an English option anyway. Looking at the town of Giessen via Google, I might just go ahead and risk the fine. We just passed through Friedberg, where Elvis Presley was stationed during the Cold War from 1958 to 1960.

Well, the Giessen main train station looks nice enough, as well as an early 20th-century factory might look.

Crossing the bridge from the train station to the city was this sticker reminding me that there’s a lot of truth behind my selective ignorance of how animals live such short lives before they become my dinner. Regarding the characterization of the people who raise and slaughter animals on my behalf, we are all complicit as we want our dead animal parts put on our plates for the lowest possible cost, and so we bring in hungry immigrants to do our bidding. While Caroline and I buy much of our meat from ethically sourced producers and pay the premium, we are not above guilt. If you think the sticker is rude, think about how the animals might feel about being the recipients of our desires.

The signs to nowhere (supposedly the city center) brought me here. I thought I could spruce things up by capturing some greenery and flowers in the foreground so what lies ahead isn’t so grim in appearance.

No time to investigate the innards of the house of our Lord. If God is going to speak to me this day, it will have to be from a distance.

Could this be God making itself known to me? This bull-slug with amputated legs and a mummy-wrapped corpse holding a sphere is about as religious a thing as I’ve ever witnessed without the assistance of powerful drugs. I think it materialized here on its metal spike just for me; God sure operates in peculiar ways.

Giessen, well, I’ll never need to come back here. It feels like a town that sprung up after World War II, that or it was bombed into oblivion and never rebuilt a historical center. Pure function and no character can only mean one thing in Germany: this city was built for blue-collar workers.

Jeez, got turned around and missed my first train. Now I’m on a train leaving from track 9 that’s supposed to stop in Wetzlar, but with the overhead sign saying Koblenz, I have to admit I’m not sure where I’m going. The worst that can happen is I’m fined those 60 Euros for the transgression of needing to navigate in an area not accustomed to foreign visitors as signage is not for the international crowd.

Yay, the overhead sign says next stop, Wetzlar. Just dawned on me that my phone is down to 75% of charge already and that I should carry something to charge it while I’m outside of Frankfurt.

Arrived in Wetzlar without incident and started following the signs saying “Altstadt” or Old Town. I learned something about the region today as I heard water and followed the sound/ I’m on a river. The Lahn River connects Marburg, Giessen, Wetzlar, and Limburg on its way to the Rhein, along with many more small villages along the route.

It’s pretty enough as I approach this half-timbered old town center, and it’s quiet enough not to disturb the living or dead. I should stop for a coffee, but any minute, this bridge might be busy as people start to go about their day.

It would seem to me that by 10:00 on a Friday, the townspeople would be out and about by now; maybe they wake late?

I should have stopped at my first opportunity for coffee at the bridge, but I was certain there’d be other cafes at such a quaint stop along the river. I was wrong. Could it be that when tourism was at its height, city centers became undesirable places to live and that some seriously high number of dwellings here are part of the Airbnb network instead of being used as residences?

The shops are still here, but were they ever for locals? Does someone who lives in Wetzlar really want an expensive cutting board noting Goethe’s short time spent living in this village?

Like Martin Luther, it’s easy to get the impression Goethe stayed everywhere in Germany. Back on the 10th of May, 1772, Goethe, then a young law student traveled here to Wetzlar, which was then the “Capital of Law.” He took a fancy to the daughter of a member of the Teutonic Knights, her name was Charlotte Buff. Learning “that he could hope for nothing but friendship” from Charlotte, he left Wetzlar on the 11th of September, walking along the Lahn River towards the Rhein. Back in Frankfurt, Goethe learned that a friend had taken his own life in the very apartment in Wetzlar where Goethe had been living. These two moments in his life were pivotal and led to the writing of The Sorrows Of Young Werther.

So, here I am in a nice cool spot as it warms up out there. This cool spot is, of course, a church that also affords me the chance to jot some “whatevers” down. Those first whatevers end up being yawns; the coffee beckons, but first, I’ll search for redemption.

Why have I never realized that the church is like a car and the bible its user manual? With the church, you are traveling to a destination such as heaven or hell. Will you find salvation when you enter the church, or is your tank empty? Should you not know your way around the intricate workings of the church, pick up the bible, and it will tell you where to find the headlights, the radio, and windshield wipers so you can see better the direction you are heading. Once you are in the house of worship, you have a chauffeur and tour guide in the form of a member of the clergy.

Back when the church played a much more important role in people’s lives, this was the vehicle that took the parishioners on exotic journeys so they might encounter God, if not here, then in the afterlife. Today, we offer alms in the form of money we pass on to those at airlines, hotels, restaurants, museums, and other places that draw in travelers. Now that God is dead (after we killed him), we can see God not in the church but in how we try to bring grace into our own lives when we turn to the online catalog of consumption and decorate ourselves with the adornments that demonstrate our holiness. We have become the altar, and those less wealthy than I can pray at my feet.

Music is no longer just provided by a massive church organ on Sundays; I have my Rockford Fosgate P300-12 Punch 300 Watt Powered Loaded 12-Inch Subwoofer in the mobile chapel I drive through your neighborhood at night or pull up behind you and vibrate your car too with the sounds of a thumping canticle. This is not meant to annoy anyone; it’s just that I’m a modern religious person, and you are old and intolerant as you’ve not changed with the times. Besides, the reverb in my car is tight, have you heard the horrible echo in one of these old cathedrals?

And the cost of even building a church anymore will never happen again, who can afford it? Take, for example, that an apartment in Frankfurt, Germany, costs about €7,000 per square meter to purchase (or about $850 a square foot in American prices, which would equate to the average home costing about $2 million). Now consider how many massively technical and artistic skills are needed to build a church; you’d have to consider spending at least €15,000 per square meter, add golden altars and ornate paintings, sculptures, and stained glass, and soon you are looking at a quick 2.44 billion Euros to build something about the size of Notre Dame or about $3 billion in U.S. currency. I have to admit I’m wondering why Mark Zuckerberg or Jeff Bezos aren’t building their own personal temples to wealth seeing they can earn this much money in anywhere from 10 days to a month or so. Ah, to be a God and listen to the choir of cash registers singing the eternal song of riches.

But money can’t buy time or replace the history of humanity. The old church doors that have been passed through across the ages have allowed people access to a shared culture and the carrying on of traditions. From there, people make their small contribution to each successive generation, offering a wealth that only accrues interest when others benefit from the knowledge that rose out of the desire to improve one’s place on Earth. But first, we must pass through the door.

Maybe an earlier Elon Musk lived in one of these houses; we don’t know his name today, nor do we care as the souls that occupied these spaces are meaningless to us in the here and now other than the possibility they survived war, famine, and plague which allowed us to replace them hundreds of years later.

Our compass points forward, but the arrow of time is merciless. Where our journeys take us and what we glean from these moments will say little of where we traveled today, but they can volumes to future generations who might listen to the story shared on the pages of a bible not yet written.

And then the Lord said, let there be a Greek restaurant with good shade to meet your needs and keep you in comfort. And so it was done. My servant turned water into coffee and manifested tiny bubbles to the water brought to sustain me. Asked if I’d like the Lamb of God, I agreed that the mixed grill plate would be the perfect Eucharist but asked if that came with sacramental bread. Assured I was having a full service brought to my table, I was ready to fall into prayer. Blasphemy, you say? Sure, and Jesus walked on water.

This village offers little to read where things are. Is it dead because there’s no tourism? Do the locals work away from the Altstadt, or is it being depopulated? I have seen a good amount of empty houses, abandoned shells of houses, and places that appear no longer in use but viable. I wonder, at what density of tourists do they drop some kind of energetic vibrance into a place, livening it up in such a way that makes things more exciting? Maybe that’s exactly it, when a place is packed full of people, we struggle to see all things as we move with the flow. By competing to grab the perfect spot that satisfies our sense of the aesthetic, we do not have time to linger in thoughts that ask, what next?

Hah, how does that apply to a mind searching for words when its pathways appear deserted, too? Do I need more words stuffed into this head or more images? This then has me asking myself if being sleepy is the mental equivalent of heading into the night instead of the dawn.

So, was it the coffee that brought wakefulness, the meal, or the combo? True, I’d only had a small salami sandwich on a roll before leaving Frankfurt, and it is mid-day, so maybe that first bite and clocking in my first five miles before 11:00 played a role? I’ll continue to explore this old town center for a bit longer and then flip the coin if I head to Limburg or Fulda. Writing that I already answered the coin flip, I’m going to Limburg, so I explore more of the Lahn River area before heading to other places.

Walking along back towards the bridge when a yarn store jumps out at me. I’m at Stricklaedchen, and they are open. I said to the shop keeper, “Meine Frau alle meine socken machen, ich suchen wolle von Deutschland” she responded, “Schön, hier ist Sockenwolle aus Deutschland.” What more needed to be said? But before I could choose one, she recommended a colorway from Hundertwasser, and well, that was all the convincing I needed. So, either Caroline or I will one day wear a pair of socks with the yarn I bought in Wetzlar, Germany, inspired by Friedensreich Regentag Dunkelbunt Hundertwasser.

Other than maybe more photos from the Lahn River, I needed nothing else, so along the riverbank, I strolled on the shady side as far as I could before turning towards the train station. As I allowed my eyes to take in the beauty of these natural settings with the goose family also out for a stroll, I thought maybe this could be my Giverny, and whereas Monet painted with various pigments, I would paint this with words, if only I had the time to linger.

This being a very small town, trains are not all that frequently pulling through. The one I wanted heading northwest was 21 minutes away when I sat down, and so I set to note-taking of my impressions. Obviously, this is not the kind of writing I’d like to be dealing with. Instead, I believe I might be in need of another coffee to fuel my impressionistic sensibilities.

I should point out that the Lahn River is used recreationally with small boats, rafts, and some going in for a swim. Where there are small rapids or falls that are too shallow to navigate, there are side chutes with walkways to pull a kayak or sculling boat along a wheeled ramp that makes pulling it easier while the boater walks next to it over a boardwalk.

Quick change of plans as I disembark the train in Weilburg for a quick walk up to the castle. No time for coffee, but water had to be found as the combo of relatively hot weather with humidity I’m unaccustomed to is still taking time to adapt to, a kind of weather jet lag I’m struggling with. I was in a hurry because the trains move through these out-of-the-way locations so infrequently that I knew I’d better catch the next train heading to Limburg. That departure was scheduled for 70 minutes after I pulled into town.

Okay, I’ve seen the palace, and now I can leave. Just kidding, even if I were late, I’d just go with the flow and let my interest dictate the time.

How deceptive is the practice of sharing just the images that might inspire someone else to see the inherent beauty of a place that any other photographer is also trying to offer others? Maybe all springtime visits to Germany should require travelers to spend a solid month over here so they too might know the amazing days in addition to the cold, wet ones that are inevitable.

Even if this castle were open to visitors (it’s not), I wouldn’t have time to investigate further today, nor would I really want to, as if I like a place, there should be something left unseen that draws Caroline and me back.

When Caroline saw this image, she blurted out that she already knew it as she had a postcard of it when she was younger. I forgot to ask if she had it because she liked the image or if she had visited as a child, as Jutta would load up the girls in their Renault 4 and tour various places in Germany and France.

This is the oldest house in Weilburg, built back in 1576; I’d live in it.

How’d I already get back here? Nothing like a bunch of curved short streets and alleys to ensure that you don’t really know where you are. Had I a fully charged phone, I could have followed where I was on a map and would have known better how long it would take me to get to a point and if I’d reached the furthest corner of the old city center. No time to backtrack; must keep going forward.

Wouldn’t you know that I’d get back to the train station 20 minutes early and then the train is going to be 10 minutes late? Once the train showed up, we traveled along the Lahn River in a wooded area, passing through the occasional tunnel. Before I got out of my seat and headed over to the big windows to start taking photographs, I realized how differently short trains ride. Has anyone else noticed this?

Aumenau next to the Lahn River at once looks amazing under billowy white clouds and the deep green of spring giving way to the summer, but somehow, I sense a malicious farmer in their presence ready to use some townspeople as fodder in a situation right out of the Funny Games horror movie franchise.

As we make our way along the Lahn River, we pass Villmar and Runkel. This is Villmar, and while I tried to snap a photo of the castle ruins in Runkel, the sun was in the wrong place, and my window had too much glare on it. My impression of the Lahn River valley and the villages that have taken up a permanent home here is that one day, I’d like for Caroline and me to take the 55-mile / 89-kilometer walk from Wetzlar to Koblenz on the Rhine River just as a young Goethe did so many years ago. Hmmm, could I walk 18 miles / 30 kilometers a day for three days?

Giessen, Wetzlar, Weilburg, and now Limburg. The fourth city for the day is possibly the better way to spend time out of a major destination as its old city center is bigger with more to see, more to eat, more to drink, and more to visit. And the significance of the strawberries? Nothing other than the personal nod to Caroline once again that these Erdbeeren grown in Deutschland are sagenhaft.

As I was looking at the map of the route I took today to get from Giessen to Limburg an der Lahn, I was wondering if any old, similar route from one unknown place to another might produce the same results, so I looked north towards the direction I was supposed to travel out of Giessen this morning. That destination was Siegen, which I can’t remember ever hearing about before. Had my trip started there and headed west, I would have passed through Betzdorg, Wissen, Altenkirchen, and Buchholz. I looked up all four towns and realized that I might be enchanted by all four, and if that’s true, then maybe all 2,060 cities and 11,042 localities are of interest, too. Well, except for Giessen.

Why do I do this to myself? I didn’t even have to admit I found yarn stores; Caroline would have never known I had passed them. Not only did I see them, but I also went inside with my enabling mindset fully engaged. Maybe this is stretching the truth a bit, but only a bit. While I was in that first yarn shop in Wetzlar, Caroline was still asleep, but while I was in Limburg, she was awake, so I stoked the fires of desire by sending her a quick photo of yarns. She perked up, “Is that Wollpalais?” How the hell did she know that so quickly? Has she memorized all the yarn stores in Europe should someone she knows happen to be visiting that town? You don’t think she could remember that? Then you don’t know Caroline. I told her I didn’t find any sock yarn I wanted, “Too bad, look for lace-weight stuff for me.” She liked the blue and brown, so I got her two skeins of that, and I liked the blue, green, and red, and although I didn’t need them, I could hear the little Caroline devil on my shoulder telling me to support small yarn shops like this during the pandemic so I obeyed. Seriously, I could have kept my mouth shut, but maybe I was overcome by love. Hey, do any of you readers know if voodoo dolls could control me in this way?

It was here at the fork in the road that I checked into rehab, and while that might look like some restaurant or pub to you, upstairs is the 12-Step program for yarn-buying enablers who first go through the process of doing what they know they shouldn’t and then drown their guilt in Spaghetti Eis, Rabarberplunder, or Bio-Körni Brötchen mit Butter and Johannisbeerenmarmalade. I feel like a food alcoholic, and the first step is admitting that I have a problem. Is Lent coming up? Maybe I could give up buying yarn, then?

This sign has nothing to do with what I was doing other than I love these signs and will forever be amazed at the German craftsmanship that is able to balance a golden goblet in the center of such a thing. I mean, seriously, how do they do that?

Not much is crooked; this must be modern.

Caroline pointed out after reading the first half of this blog post that while in Giessen, I said something about the Lord having to discuss things with me outside today, and then maybe an hour later, I was in a church after all. In my defense, I explained that I have now realized that my car and I are my church, and I wear my piety in the outward appearance of wealth I’m able to adorn myself with, so going into churches is an exercise not in finding the sanctity of anything holy but a mere visit to an archeological site where I might find evidence of previous souls. Next stop, hunting for evidence at the Cathedral of St George.

Oh, look at all this badass architecture knocked out back in 1180 to 1235 when making things involved quality work that might last for, oh, say, 1,000 years!

Just the other day, I was thinking, “Damned thing that Nietzsche fellow, having garroted God triggering the German hordes to scream into the abyss, ‘Herr Toller Schnurrbart has killed God, can the Jews be far behind?'” And wouldn’t you know it, his idiot sister Elizabeth took that to the bank of the Third Reich and messed things up for a hot minute, but would we have gotten Rammstein without the devastation and cultural reinvention that followed? That’s right, Good comes out of Evil.

I looked in on the statue of the virgin mother; her eyes and ears were bleeding, and her son held his hand over his eyes in shame for what I would write. Little did I know then what they saw in my future, but the sight was so astonishing. I grabbed my camera as quickly as I could, but the photo turned out to look much as it would at any other church. I swear this happened while, at the same time, I hope I won’t be burning in hell for such ugly things that come out of my fingers. Maybe I’m suffering from psychography, and Satan is controlling my hands, which I can’t begin to understand as these appendages are never idle hands spending time in the devil’s workshop, or are they?

Hey Jesus, no joke, are we cool? He stares down at me, “Does this look cool?” So, I guess I might be damned? “You betcha, so why don’t you just take yourself right out of here, buy some yarn and donuts, and drown the sorrows you’ll pretty much be experiencing for ETERNITY!”

Right about now, I’m wondering how smart it was to eat those 2.5 grams of psilocybin with lunch.

I should just enjoy the great outdoors, smell the flowers, check out the half-timber houses, and be happy to enjoy so much of this beautiful German town of Limburg that was started in the year 910 when Louis the Child granted Konrad Kurzbold an estate here.

Nah, I should just go into another church and finish enjoying my shroomy journey into blasphemic digression.

Oh my God, did I really wander into yet another Catholic church?

I stared at the ceiling for maybe 20 minutes, watching the Eye of Providence making googly eyes at the Eye of Horus, all three of them. Sorry for cutting the one on the left off, but I was having issues remembering how to even use my camera. By the way, I was joking about the Magic Mushrooms; I was on 250 μg (microgram) of some clean LSD.

Stop talking to me, you baby bastards. For a minute, I thought the organ pipes were the fangs of Satan or a dragon, maybe even my mother-in-law. She has fangs, you know?

Do you want the truth? Can you even handle the truth? I had to make some things up because I’ve visited so many churches by now and have learned nothing in those explorations, besides the fact that some great artists have poured entire lifetimes into them, that to offer more oohs and aahs would have just been more of the same where you witness me being enthralled by such magnificence.

I’m writing some of this at Cafe Will, the oldest cafe in Limburg which was established in 1880 or nearly a thousand years after Louis the Child exercised a lot of power for a person of his age. But now for something completely different (I often wonder how many people hear John Cleese of Monty Python every time they read that phrase?)

Oat milk is the alternative milk of choice here in Germany at the moment, or so it seems, so I have an oat milk latte along with a large glass of sparkling water. Sadly, the cafe closes in 15 minutes so I’ll have had a half-hour to sit and consider my next steps. Caroline offered some long-distance help with finding my train schedule and a restaurant, too; I’m going to be dining here in Limburg. The place is called Burgkellar, just up the hill on Fischmarkt. I’d been hoping to leap into one more city today with a jaunt over to Fulda for dinner, but it’s a two-and-a-half-hour train ride, so that’s out of the question.

Dinner number 18 in Germany, and once again, I’m alone. If you think I have Caroline nearby on the internet, I put the phone in airplane mode to conserve battery as it is holding my train ticket. I can’t afford to have the battery die, and after such a long day, there’s that possibility. With that said, sitting in old town Limburg next to these old half-timbered houses and listening to all my neighbors speaking German, I’m certainly having an entertaining experience.

Shadows are starting to lengthen, and the day is cooling. I like the idea, after running around so much today, of taking a nice long break and moving slowly. Time to eat.

My server just let me know that during normal times, this area is full, and getting a table here at Burgkeller isn’t always easy. With Germans not being in the habit of vacationing in their own country, this must be especially tough, especially compared to America, where the need to get out has created a situation where even if Caroline and I wanted to visit Yellowstone or the Grand Canyon, those places are in such high demand that they are sold out for the better part of the rest of the year.

At least from my perspective here late in the day, I find Limburg very liveable. Of course, things like grocery shopping and open-air markets have to remain unknown to me, and the rest of Limburg surrounding the Altstadt appears to be quite a large place. Lacking on first blush is frequent rail service; while a train to Frankfurt comes through once an hour and on occasion twice, this is certainly not a travel hub, even if it’s a destination.

Oh, you bet I could see Caroline in a nice Dirndl, especially one that is as modest and cute as this one. The entire ensemble is a relatively pricey €500 or $600 U.S., but when you consider that these are handmade clothes using fabrics that are unique, you might be able to see that this isn’t too much at all.

Speaking of Caroline, if I could have her on live-cam the whole time I’m here, I’d keep that channel open so I could just pick up my phone and say hi to her smiling face so often she’d cut me off as she’d get nothing else done. The longer I’m gone, the greater the length we are going to emphatically share our love of each other and how we miss one another. If I could plant a hug in this blog that would somehow reach further out than my pining at her on the phone and in chat, I’d be adding that right about now.

Vacationing, this is something I should start considering right now as when I get home I’d like and I’m sure Caroline would also like to spend some quality time together. We were just up on the California coast from Monterey to Cambria for nearly ten days last month and in November, we did have a quite long vacation up in Oregon, so where to go? We had to pass on going white water rafting in Idaho on July 4th as we couldn’t anticipate how things would work out with such a fast turnaround of me coming back from Germany and then driving a day and a half to Idaho to start such an adventure in the possible throws of jet lag. Now that doesn’t feel so impossible.

Move out of your expectations. Find the order in chaos and embrace the things that challenge your sense of normal, as routine is a tyranny to the over-stimulated mind of people consuming trash. We must break out and turn off the shit so we might find some flow allowing us to flush the toilets of our minds.

So, who was on shrooms or acid when these figures on the House of the Seven Deadly Sins were made? Actually, I think the creator of these simply had an effective methodology for not letting their mind get too backed up with the excrement deposited by society and knew how to have fun.

I’m on the train returning to Frankfurt refreshed, even though I ran out of steam in Limburg. I wasn’t even willing to wait for the 20:19 to the city and opted for the 19:50 to Giessen, hoping I’d hop on a train there that might get me back sooner. There are a lot of photos I shot today that need to be gone over, color-corrected, and other stuff, so I can pull things together tomorrow. Such is the process of trying to maintain these daily blog entries.

Just had a great dumb idea where I start importing the photos now, thus saving me time later tonight, but while that happens, I cannot take any photos as the memory card is tied up. Having taken a lot more photos than usual, this will take some time, but maybe that’s a good thing, as I’ll have fewer photos to contend with. If you are reading this far along of the drivel that has spilled from me, you are probably already thinking, “Hey John, you could have posted fewer photos so I wouldn’t have to scroll past so damn much to see this entry and get to the next.”

So, however many photos I end up posting, you should know that I shot more than 380 to get the ones I deemed worthy. Hmm, I am just wondering if I should do the same with my words and, after writing 3,000 or so, should select the best 300 and post those?

How nice it is to be on a train, effortlessly gliding down a track with no responsibility other than to keep on my mask. My day pass for the state of Hessen has been well worth the $40 it cost. I do want to stop at every scenic sight and snap off a photo, but the train travels where neither cars nor bikes can go, so even if I were traveling by other means, I’d not even see these views, and if I were on an autobahn, there’d be no stopping whatsoever.

Cows are grazing, farms are glowing, and the Lahn is there on my left with nary a ripple. I’m lulled by the bucolic nature we are gliding through and only wish to experience it all by foot though I’m afraid it would be like sitting in the church waiting for the voice of God to speak with me as I gaze upon the landscape waiting for a message that offers a new take on enlightenment.

We just passed through Dudenhofen without stopping and waiting at the track I saw between six and eight young ladies dressed for going out. It was impossible to know if they were waiting for the train that goes directly to Frankfurt or if they might be on their way to Limburg (highly unlikely) or maybe Koblenz. I have no idea about those cities’ nightlives, but I do know that in Frankfurt, even here at the tail-end (hopefully) of the pandemic, things are far more lively than sleepy old Dudenhofen, especially if you have access to a good dose of LSD, or Magic Mushrooms.

Day 15 – I’ll Probably Do Something Or Other

There are no fixed plans for the day, though there are things that will certainly be done. I’ll discover what I’m going to do as I fall into them. Now that yesterday’s writing chores are finished, I can go on with experiencing this Tuesday, June 8th, 2021.

Putting things in their place and sorting others so they may be where they need to be. Emotions and artifacts, the past and the present, all have their purpose in time, but like moments in time, they tick by, and everything moves forward. Our work is to resolve our needs to be present and learn what’s important due to the ephemeral nature of lives that are always in a state of change.

I’m feeling a sense of conflict regarding what I thought I might be doing in Germany and what I find myself doing. While I understood that my mother-in-law would enjoy my time with her, I thought I could manage with her seeing four or five times a week. Knowing that I’ll be gone in a few weeks, I feel that I’m cheating her if I don’t afford her every moment I can, as July and August might prove quite lonely for her as visitation is reduced to once a week when Stephanie makes time for her mother. The hope is that Caroline and I will be back around the middle of September, but now I’m re-evaluating our need for part of that visit to be split between vacation and family time or if we should give it all to family.

Enough has been said in my previous blog posts about my refamiliarizing myself with Frankfurt, so maybe I’m giving that a break though there’s a lot I’ve not done yet and might warrant some sharing, such as a visit to the Gallus area, Palmengarten, and some museums. Though I may not share much on that side of things doesn’t mean I’m not deeply engaged. When my senses were tuned to dropping into Germany, they are now focused on what it means to eliminate many of the traces of our lives and what ends up being important as a life heads for the exit.

So much of what’s in my mind feels like nascent fleeting sparks of potential where I can’t even see the light but sense that it’s there, kind of a quantum inspiration I hope to discover.

Am I still shocked to see cigarette vending machines on the street? I suppose I am, as they’ve been gone from America for so long now I can’t remember when streetside smokes were last available or if they ever were. But what’s really shocking is that a pack of Marlboro is just under $10. While this price is about 50% more than what Americans pay, there is no shortage of smokers; I’d venture a guess that there are comparatively far more smokers in Germany than in the U.S.

So while children could buy cigarettes on the street and the alcohol laws are pretty lax, for example, In Germany, there are three drinking ages: 13 – minors are allowed to consume beer or wine with their parents or legal guardians. Age 16 – minors are allowed to consume beer or wine without their parents or legal guardian. At 18 – adults are allowed to consume distilled alcohol. There is no dialogue currently going on about legalizing marijuana, while in America, recreational weed is starting to be available in more and more places. One problem with legal weed in Europe would be the population density as the smell would infiltrate everything, and while Germans have accepted cigarette smoke in their presence, I’m not sure how the pungent smell of grass would go over.

I had written something totally other that was meant for this image of the train tracks that just end here while about 100 feet away on the other side, the track begins, an old line no longer in use with the rest of the track already removed. That text was sliced out of here and saved in another document that is still being hammered out. In that potential post are my observations about Jutta and how someone born ten years before the end of World War II in Germany experiences adolescence in a devastated post-war environment trying to navigate a derailed national identity. Returning to momentum after you’ve been brought to a full stop requires figuring out new paths. So there, while I won’t share the entirety of my thoughts over there, I’ve not simply baited and dropped you off.

I’m experiencing a Germany that is unique at this time; everything is mine. Being vaccinated and a foreigner, while strict travel restrictions are still in place, offers me some benefits such as always being able to get a table in an uncrowded cafe, the churches, and museums are still empty, with many people working from home the trains are never filled to capacity. I don’t wait to take photos as there are no tourists jockeying for the same view. This is offering me a perspective on Germany that will likely be unique in my lifetime.

Compare this to America, where people across the country and within their own states are traveling everywhere right now. It seems to me that the only Germans who want to visit big German cities are those who live rurally; otherwise, the German people want to visit other countries to escape what they must perceive to be a lack of striking differences within their borders aside from those who travel to the German Alps and up to the Wattenmeer, the two exceptions. So Germany is mine, though my time to poke my head into all the places I might want to visit is limited.

This says everything you ever need to know about the differences between Germany and America.

Tunnels, like life, go places, but you cannot see the destination. As you enter, you are shrouded in darkness (ignorance), but along the way, you harness light (knowledge) to illuminate the way. When you arrive you might integrate with those on the other side and make bonds, discover another culture, and leave better off than you were before (wisdom). Sadly, most never seem to enter the tunnel and are happy to stay within the confines of what they know.

I’m already in a new day, on the other side of the glass, up the stairs. What I mean to say is that I look at this image from another day while also trying to write the first paragraph for Day 16 before a nice 77-year-old lady strikes up a conversation. We speak about her daughter’s love of America and her mother’s American boyfriend after the war, while she recommends Oberursel as a nice place to live should we retire here. But that’s tomorrow, and I shouldn’t be writing about the future while trying to maintain the illusion of being in the here and now about Day 15.

A walk away from Saalburgstrasse took me to Saalburgallee and over to Eissporthalle before I turned into Ostpark for a walk towards the Main River and an encounter with Skatepark Osthafen, full of skaters too!

The first bridge I crossed is called Honsellbrücke, and this bridge, which picks up where the other leaves off, is called Osthafenbrücke. I’m now on the south side of the Main River with a good idea of where I’m going compared to when I started this walk, not knowing exactly which direction I was traveling. After living in Phoenix, Arizona, for so long, it sounds strange not to know which way I’m going as I live in a grid with roads that only go east/west and north/south. While there are landmarks in Frankfurt that could act as markers of direction, they are difficult to see on the streets of a city where you are surrounded by four- and five-story buildings.

Just as I’m repetitive in my words, I can be repetitive with my use of images too, especially when we are talking about this view of the Frankfurt skyline I’m so enchanted by.

Speaking of enchanting, these are Bembel, earthenware jugs used for serving apple wine, and are a sight and taste that delights Caroline. You should be able to guess by now what I’m about to do.

I’m taking a dinner pause after my long nine-mile (15km) walk around Frankfurt. I’d like to leave the following details to the margin, but I’ve been waiting for Fichtekränzi Restaurant to open, and now I’m here. It, like so many other restaurants that didn’t feel they could maintain their reputation and quality of food with take-out only, closed eight months ago and just reopened this week. Strangely, I’m the only person sitting inside; admittedly it’s beautiful out, but even the patio isn’t full yet. Before the pandemic, I dare you to try to get a table in less than 15 to 30 minutes.

I’m not sure that the two-mile walk back to where I’m staying is going to be possible; I’m tired here at 10:30 p.m.

My tram stop is at Dom/Römer, where the U4 will have me delivered in minutes, but of course, there’s time for a photo or two.

The words Deutsches Reich are what caught my eye; I had to take a second look to see the date 1910 and Drei Mark below, letting me know that these floor decorations were based on an old coin, not Nazis.

Minutes later, I’m onboard and zipping across town. Being in a hurry to get anywhere is a disappointment as there’s so much to take in when moving at a snail-like pace. Time to find tomorrow and be done with today.

Day 14 – Shelter

Rain, rain, and more rain. I could run outside under the shelter of my umbrella and fetch something to eat, or I could sit here in this mostly empty apartment with the window open, listening to the rain, wishing I could have something to eat. The rain didn’t use to present such a problem back when we used to live here, but we’d have had food on hand, and if we knew it was supposed to rain in the morning, we could go to the store the day before to pick up a package of croissants. I don’t have that luxury today as I’m practicing minimalism and trying to make the best of it.

While I’m sheltered from the weather, I stare out the open window, looking for a break in the downpour, but the water just continues to fall from the sky. Checking the radar, I can predict that this storm cell should be passing in the next 15 minutes or so. Until then, I’m forced to contend with my bible (I mean my laptop) in seclusion, although this limitation creates a small amount of resentment. I sit in front of this computer day and night when I’m not on the move and have nothing else to turn to as I’m here without wife, books, synthesizer, car, or the basic amenities one might enjoy in the place they live. All I have is this screen and the wide-open window looking out on the street so I can judge how heavy the rain is; that’s it. I’m starting to get the idea I would not have made a good monk living in a monastery.

At last, I brave the great outdoors of a wet Frankfurt after learning that the storm would be here to stay through 10:00 p.m. At the bakery, I was reminded that today is the day that those of us vaccinated or recently tested for COVID are allowed to sit indoors. After these two weeks of standing outside and then sitting outside, we are now moving quickly to the old normal. Here I am, seated in a dry, warm dining area, connected to free WIFI instead of my hotspot, with access to a toilet should I need it, and I’m feeling like a fully participating member of society. Is this my reward for following the rules?

Maybe an American reading this might think, “But John, you’ve had this in America for some time now.” The difference is that I didn’t want to go to restaurants in the United States due to the angry belligerence of a vocal minority who wanted to flaunt any safety protocols. Here in Germany, the adherence to respecting others offers a sense of shared sacrifice and the protection of a dense population with vulnerable people among them. Hopefully, the next step is no more border controls that question what my purpose is in entering another country.

Funny how we all desire shelter from freezing, wet, and hot weather. We’ll voluntarily wear the clothes best suited for the environment and utilize transportation that best meets our needs. We seek out food that satisfies our hunger and strive for work that guarantees some small part of our happiness and allows us to protect ourselves in our homes. But then a pandemic strikes, and it can only have come from the evil intention of those who want to control us and steal our rights as though they also might want us to voluntarily live in homes with locked doors and windows where we pay rent, mortgages, and property taxes to wealthy landowners and banks, wear clothes that shame us for having sex organs, garments made by exploited immigrants in faraway countries, and have to buy food from an agricultural-industrial complex that serves the elites with trillions in profit. But supposedly, this one thing, the mask, was the final straw that made the charade transparent and the intentions to defraud us of liberty so very obvious to the well-informed who watched information of questionable source material unfold on the internet that offered us a Grand Truth. Whatever truth you’ve found on YouTube, keep it to yourself as I find mine in my immediate reality, the books I’ve read that span history covering science, philosophy, and sociology, and from my sense of fitting into nature as best I can.

Enough of that and on to something different. The German language is something I can’t adapt to fast enough. I obviously leaned hard on Caroline during the years I lived in Germany and while I could make my way around the country, I made do with this limited resource I had. Today, I’m suffering from this ignorance. My needs and desires are far more nuanced at this time in my life, and I have some fairly strong ideas of how I want things to be. I’m not able to easily bring these wishes across to the person I’m in front of attempting communication, especially when they are performing a service that requires them to move through those of us in line in the most expedient manner possible. So I just have to agree to almost every question and accept whatever the default options are. My rudimentary German also opens me up to others, now testing how far that knowledge of German goes; it’s not very far. As I struggle, some will offer a helping hand by bringing their limited English to the floundering foreigner, but I’m growing increasingly uncomfortable with this equation

“Noch mal einen Kaffee, bitte,” (another coffee please) followed by, “Zum Mitnehmen?” “Nein, fur hier zu trinken” (To go? No, for here). For a language I use on such rare occasions, I’m surprised that I get by, but I want more than that. Caroline will be happy to read these words because should we move back to Germany one day, I’ll need a better proficiency in this language if I’m to get a visa that will allow me to stay longer. Should you wonder why my wife doesn’t teach me German, seeing how she’s German, well, Caroline’s over-analytical mind will answer me with the most common way of saying something in German, and then like someone with Tourette’s, she has to blurt out the other four ways it could be said unless you are in Rhineland-Palatinate where it’s said these two different ways. Okay, she’s not that bad, but you get the idea.

If a vacation is measured by doing what you want when you want, then I live on a permanent vacation, and this trip to Germany is simply a change in geography. Here I am, two Brötchen (btw, Brötchen is the diminutive of Brot, a.k.a. bread), two coffees, and two hours into doing just what I want while the weather does what it wants. I wonder what Jutta’s doing?

I arrived at Lebenshaus and found Jutta in the dining area with her fellow residents, cutting up fruit for a champagne-based fruit punch being prepared for the afternoon’s music appreciation hour. I’ve told my mother-in-law that it’s like she’s living at the Schatzalp on the Magic Mountain by Thomas Mann, except she’s not in the mountains of Davos, Switzerland, but right next to the Main River in a valley, close enough. In this kind of sanitorium where shelter is found for those who are growing weak, Jutta has adapted very well to life in her small room, and she’s just incredibly happy to see me so often.

A short visit in the morning that will be followed by a second one in the afternoon after I have lunch should put a nice spin on the day for Jutta. Maybe I can even get her out for a short walk over to the river if the weather continues to improve.

My lunch bears mentioning as it was a strange play on traditional items I’ve been eating for the past couple of weeks. Here at Leib & Seele, I tried their mashup of veal schnitzel stuffed with green sauce herbs, an egg, and Handkäse served with Bratkartoffeln. I found it to be an abomination, but it will sustain me. Continuing with a theme I plan on wearing out, it is as though the hand cheese and egg took refuge in the schnitzel as a way of finding shelter. Yeah, I went there, as why not hammer at the inane for the sake of a groan?

And, of course, I’m inside because I can be. For Germans, it’s been seven months since they could sit in a restaurant, and takeout has been their only option. It is nice outside, and under normal circumstances, I would have gladly sat streetside for the people watching but nothing is yet quite normal. Then, while I’m here considering what I might write next, a song that will become a featured track from my 2021 trip to Germany starts to play. It’s called Save Your Tears by The Weeknd. Why do the cheesy songs in heavy rotation always seem to find my ear is a mystery?

I should drink this espresso and pretend to eat the Apfelstrudel I’m not having, but if I had, I’d certainly need to get out of here for a serious walk to work that off. Should you, too, be growing bored of these food reports, I’m right there with you and realize I need to move on to something, anything else.

QR codes are everywhere and on everything as the pandemic inched us closer to a contactless society. With the opening of restaurants and shops, some QR codes are quickly being removed as menus are put back in customers’ hands, and appointments to enter certain stores are no longer needed.

What will be around for some time to come are COVID tests until the population of Europe is vaccinated to the point of herd immunity.

Churches were closed for a time, and then when they did open, they were only there for services. Now, as I walk by the wide-open door of a church in Frankfurt, I feel invited in. Every state and city has its own schedule for reopening, dependent on their infection numbers, so while I was able to visit churches in other cities, their incidence of COVID had already reached manageable numbers. This is the interior of St. Catherine’s Church (St. Katharinenkirche), which I’ve photographed a couple of times already on this trip, but only from the outside.

Walking, walking, and more walking. Added three miles as I walked from Konstablerwache to Westend and Palmengarten. I walk and look, I walk and listen, and as I walk, I realize I’ve missed so much of the city back in the day because I was always on my way somewhere instead of nowhere in particular. So, I walk some more.

Walked into St. Paul’s Church (Paulskirche) for the first time ever and found myself alone. This mural on the ground floor represents the procession of the elected German and Austrian representatives into Paulskirche, who in 1848, presented a Charter of Basic Rights and a Constitution trying to bring a unified Germany into democracy.

As I walked upstairs, the pattern from the chair legs and the cleanliness struck me, but now you know what this abstract image is.

John F. Kennedy spoke here back in June 1963, where he commemorated the “German cradle of democracy.”

During World War II, this church was mostly destroyed. In rebuilding it, the outside remained true to form, but the interior was greatly simplified.

There’s a lot of history shared on the ground floor about the democracy movement that started right here in Frankfurt for Germany, along with the Goethe Prize from the city and the Peace Prize of the German Book Trade.

This dragon guards the Standesamt, which is the German civil registration office responsible for recording births, marriages, and deaths. Unless you’ve studied German history, you probably don’t know that the country of Germany was created in 1871 from the previous collection of German states. The Standesamt was established across the country, taking effect on January 1, 1876.

Hello again, Jutta. Another walk to the river with my mother-in-law, enjoying a short video call with Caroline and a coke. Life is good.

Back to walking with a good amount of extra walking. Walked into the Church of Our Lady (Liebfrauenkirche) and then back to Bornheim-Mitte.

Time for some domestic chores so I can keep this going as I drag my laundry to a nearby laundromat that I hope I can use without too much frustration of getting change and figuring out how the soap goes in and the dryer works. Oh, you think it’s so easy? You’ve never visited a German laundromat. Though I will admit that the last time I did, I probably was mighty stoned.

Longest kilometer walk I’ve taken today, likely due to the sense of dread eating at me as I made my way to the Eco-Express Waschsalon, where I sensed panic awaiting me. The worst thing that was going to happen was that I’d have to Skype Caroline in to decipher what I was brain farting on, but I got through with it, and my stinking clothes are in the washer and presumably getting clean. No matter, they are being spun around in soap and water and will have to be cleaner once they are out. It wasn’t until my clothes were in the washer and I was sitting down that I noticed the British flag on the screen, signifying English instructions were available. Oh well, I’m improving my survivability in Germany this way.

I skipped picking up a Döner kebab on the way as it looked closer on the map, and I thought I might throw in my laundry and then go fetch something easy, but it’s a good way back, so I’ll hope my clothes are done before they close at 10:00, it’s 8:20 right now. I shouldn’t concern myself with my clothes being left alone as already a few people came in, stuffed their things in a machine, and took off. There are other machines where the wash is long done, but no one is here tending to it; maybe they went home for dinner? I’m so negatively conditioned by the American experience that I’m too paranoid to leave my dirty, wet laundry alone as though some underwear sniffer will come and drag all my clothes away.

The laundromat itself is immaculate, unattended, and without a bunch of sketchy freaks in the place. If you’ve ever used a public laundromat in the United States, you know exactly what I mean, and the idea of using them at night should send shivers up your spine. I’m hungry after having walked nearly 7 miles after lunch.

Nice, it’s only 8:35, and my clothes are in the Trockner trocknering. I see Döner in my future. Hmm, four levels of heat; I hope I don’t light my clothes on fire. Three minutes already passed; I’m wondering if I should check it. Four minutes, this might be the proverbial watched pot. The great thing is that my stress level has gone way down.

I was greeted by four smiling and laughing guys at Döneria at the corners of Weidenbornstraße and Seckbacher Landstraße. I thought I was over-posting about food but the Döner sandwich I had was seriously the best of the half dozen or so I’ve enjoyed while here in Germany.

The king of Döners.