Leaving Town

Discount Tires in Phoenix, Arizona

Not even out of town yet and need to make an unexpected stop. Not that we were ready to leave yet anyway, but I seriously didn’t anticipate that we’d be having all four tires changed on our car today. This all started with a low tire sensor pressure alert as I started the car; with cold weather, it’s not surprising a tire would show low. I stopped at a nearby tire shop for more air, but as I went to remove a valve cap, I saw why that particular tire was seriously low: a nail was poking out of the sidewall. This changed the equation from just filling the tire to replacing it, but they didn’t have my size in stock and couldn’t have it in before 2:00. We were planning on getting out at noon, so this wasn’t going to work.

At Discount Tire, they have my size, but I’m also informed that my two front tires are low on tread. Okay, let’s change them all. That’ll be $1008, sir. Nope, that won’t work. Well, we have tires for only $530, but those won’t provide you with all the benefits of the others. That’s fine; I’ll opt for the inferior tires the manufacturer made that probably fail to meet the Department of Transportation requirement for road safety. For nearly the cost of one of those tires, we’ll sell you insurance that should you attract another nail; we’ll replace that tire for free. No, thank you. That extra cost of the insurance actually pre-pays that tire should I need this service, and this is only the second time in my 42 years of driving a car that I’ve had a sidewall puncture.

So, instead of taking things easy and heading to the coffee shop for that all-important first cup of the day, I’m sitting here in this lobby grinding my teeth at the $500 bill that arrives on the heels of learning that our rent is going up 32%. While I don’t typically complain about anything financially related, this is starting to feel like it’ll impact either our savings for retirement and/or our travel budget. These concerns, though, should not be addressed here and now in the hours before we leave for our weekend getaway, but again, here I am sitting in a lobby, forced to listen to The Joker by the Steve Miller Band and these insipid lyrics about loving some girls peaches and the dude being a midnight toker and I have nothing better to do.

Joshua Tree Parkway in Arizona on Highway 60

Like clockwork, we’re gone. Almost like clockwork, we were gone, but first, I needed to stop for lunch at In-N-Out. Part of my ambitious travel plans for 2022 with these 24 adventures out of Phoenix is that we don’t drive down the same roads from trip to subsequent trip. We need a break of familiarity and so while we drove to L.A. via Interstate 10 two weeks ago, today we are leaving via Highway 60 in the direction of Las Vegas. Not that we’re going to Vegas, hopefully ever again, but that’s the general direction towards which we need to point the car. Here on the 60, we pass a stretch of road referred to as the Joshua Tree Parkway.

Driving north in Arizona

Still on the 60 but now well north of the Joshua Trees, we start to wonder what the weather forecast says about things up this way, but it’s too late to give that much concern; plus, we don’t have great phone service to check anyway.

Driving north in Arizona

We’ve left Kingman after refueling both our supply of caffeine and gasoline. Should you wonder if I am so foolish as to take photos while I’m driving down the road? Heck no, I put the car in auto-pilot self-drive mode thus freeing me up to take photos, selfies, blog, take a nap, and ponder the big questions regarding life. I should also share that Caroline has steadfastly been reading In Search of Lost Time by Proust to us for a solid couple of hours by now, I think we might be down to the final million words soon.

Caroline Wise and John Wise at the Nevada Stateline

We’ve never taken a selfie in front of this state sign because the last time we were through here, this sign didn’t exist. The sign wasn’t there because the road wasn’t there. The road wasn’t there because the bridge was still being built. What bridge?

Hoover Dam in Nevada

See that giant shadow of an arch on the right side of the Hoover Dam and the rocks? That’s what we are standing on to take this photo. It’s the Mike O’Callaghan–Pat Tillman Memorial Bridge that was built as a bypass because the Highway used to go over the dam, which slowed traffic down considerably. I wish something would slow down traffic in Vegas, as that’s what we had to pass through after leaving the Hoover Dam and Boulder City area. Vegas traffic somehow feels worse than L.A.’s, which might have something to do with the fact that if Los Angeles has its fill of disappointed aspiring actors and musicians fleeing dashed aspirations, Vegas is chock full of people who’ve lost not only a lot of money, maybe all of it but likely their dignity too. With nothing to live for, they drive with a hellish death wish as they cascade forward in a frothy mess out of the chaos of failure and loss with little hope of recovery.

Crowbar Saloon & Cafe in Shoshone, California

Dinner was here at the Crowbar Cafe & Saloon, which will likely be where we eat dinner tomorrow night, too, and quite possibly Sunday breakfast. How our server convinced us to share that hot apple pie with ice cream when we were full can only be attributed to the idea that this is a holiday and other rules are at play when we’re out living it up. Plus, I don’t think we actually absorbed any of those extra calories because…

Hot Spring fed pool in Shoshone, California

…after walking back across the street in a howling wind and changing into shorts and not much else, we drove down the block to where this hot-spring-fed pool was available for our use. Being dry before getting into the very warm water, not hot mind you, we kept our heads above water and started wondering how we’d get out of this as the blustery cold wind was icy after spending time here submerged in the not-hot-but-pleasantly-warm spring. Just out of sight on the right is the pipe that delivers the water, and right next to it, it’s mighty warm, seriously cozily warm, but moving back to the center of the pool, it takes a moment to acclimatize and feel the warmth again. Caroline foolishly got her face wet and then complained about how the searing wind burned as it buffeted her sensitive, wet cheeks. Obviously, I simply needed to berate her how she shouldn’t do that and I’m now sure she’ll heed my admonishment the next time.

Getting out was a pretty ridiculous matter that risked us falling into hysterics because we couldn’t get over how cold the wind was on all this exposed dripping skin we were offering the gods of Did You Forget It’s January? Yes, I know I should have taken a selfie of us “in the water” because who’s going to believe we really braved this, but I swear that if we have a morning or evening where the winds are not trying to kill us, I’ll get a photo as proof that on a chilly winter moment, we know how to have fun. But how does this relate to that pie indulgence I spoke of? If you had been witness to this great dumb idea, you’d know that the amount of shivering involuntarily and violently performed by the vast amount of skin the cold wind was able to make us aware of owning, we easily burned off a quick 500 or 600 calories before jumping back in the car and turning the seat heaters on high.

End of The Weekend in L.A.

When embarking on travels, we wish for impactful and deeply experiential moments to fill our days. Well, the adage Be careful what you wish for played out to the letter this weekend. It being Sunday today, we could have opted to have a nice breakfast and maybe make one other brief stop before leaving for Arizona but after incurring the cost of visiting Los Angeles, it would be foolish not to maximize our time here.

Last night, when considering our options, we found that the La Brea Tar Pits opened at 9:30 while another museum we were looking at opened at 11:00, and the garden choices would require us to drive nearly across the breadth of L.A., wasting too much time for the effort. Okay then, first, we’ll head down the street again for breakfast at Huckleberry Cafe and then pay a revisit to a museum of fossils we’d not seen in more than a dozen years. This is where the adage I referred to comes into play as with the greater breadth of experiences, the more photos I’ll take and the more I need to share, so my wishes turn into blogging turmoil because after the mini-vacation I’ll have a good week of work to note it all.

About 50,000 years ago, a tar pit looking much like the one we’re standing next to saw mammoths, wolves, saber-toothed cats, giant sloths, camels, bears, and countless birds step into the waters hiding a thick goo just below the surface that captured them as prisoners destined to call these pits their final resting places. Many of the animal skeletons found here are of now-extinct species that died off as recently as 10,000 years ago.

Move slow with big fat limbs, and you might get stuck in the tar with no ability to pull yourself free; this proved fatal for this giant sloth. Isn’t this a metaphor for modernity, where people with thick, dumb minds get stuck in the tar of stupidity, unable to free themselves from participation in an economy that relies more than ever on intellectual work?

Even fierce beasts must succumb to the end of their time when all that ferocity and ability to project violence will not help free themselves from the trap they blindly walked into. Again, this relates to our current time, where populist would-be dictators appeal to the brute force of those with base powers only able to exercise the threat of might that they offer to bring to the party.

This mammoth is like the majority of a population with a heft that can easily crush the individual trying to do the right thing, but in the end it too will extinct itself as it fails to change with the times and the environment. Oops, my writing brain and indignance for stupidity got stuck in my own tar and have pulled me into a muck that is not this weekend of amazing moments.

Sure, if I was walking down Sunset Boulevard, the last thing I might want to encounter on my way to the movies is a 10-foot-tall beast with massive tusks that could toss me in front of a passing bus, but that doesn’t mean I wouldn’t love knowing these creatures still had a place to wander around. I can’t stand here and not be in disbelief that they are forever gone, which only makes me appreciate more that the La Brea Tar Pits and Museum are here to remind us how fragile and temporary life is.

Skulls are amazing pieces of our skeletons when we stop to think how much of our senses are carried within them, and when they no longer serve that purpose and are but fossils, possibly forgotten within the earth, there is nothing left to know about that creature’s behaviors or, in the case of humans, their personalities. This ancestor of modern condors was nearly twice the weight of California condors and sported a wider wingspan, but for some reason, they went extinct about 10,000 years ago. I wonder what the reasons were for such a die-off because while the megafauna might have left the scene at that time, condors are scavengers, and I find it hard to believe that without cave bears, giant sloths, and mammoths, these large birds should simply die away. Sure, it was the end of the ice age, but my mind isn’t grasping why this change in weather didn’t invite adaptation to the new conditions instead of wiping out so many species. One theory posits that early humans, who arrived on the North American continent at that time, could have been a contributing factor, but estimates calculate that there were only 39,000 people in North America at that time. How could these few people kill off possibly millions of large animals?

This is the skull of the dire wolf that, like everything else on display here, is now extinct. These four skulls are part of a display featuring 404 such specimens, which is only a small part of the 3,600 dire wolf remains that have been excavated here at the La Brea Tar Pits.

How could people, some 10,000 years ago weighing in at about 140 pounds each, take out a pack of dire wolves, each weighing up to 200 pounds? I think the odds were stacked against these bipedal hunters in favor of the oversized canines.

This tar pit was actively excavated until the summer of 2019 and is estimated to still have 5 feet of skeletal remains buried within the tar. A sign tells us that 73 saber-toothed cats, 56 dire wolves, 16 coyotes, 13 western horses, 12 ancient bison, six ground sloths, six giant jaguars, four short-faced bears, two Yesterday’s camels (a.k.a, Western camel), and one American mastodon have been recovered so far.

Good thing this ground sloth isn’t able to eat, although if it was alive right now and not extinct, it would have been an herbivore; otherwise, I think my wife’s head might have been a snack instead of her friend offering a hug.

I probably should have taken a video of this, as Caroline’s curiosity took her right to these spinnable chairs. I helped her spin around, and after her first pangs of anxiety about falling out passed, she giggled like a little girl. She got the hang of it a lot quicker than trying to use a hula-hoop, though. In the gift shop, I tried convincing her that for only $885, she could have one for work, but she couldn’t be sold on the idea [I would have said yes for the low-low price of $499, though – Caroline].

I should also share that we are now at the Hammer Museum further down Wilshire Boulevard. Moving through the tar pits didn’t take very long, so instead of lingering or taking an early lunch, we opted for this museum that we’d never been to before.

A placard next to the entrance after entering this gallery reads: “In 1992, the Jamaican scholar and theorist Sylvia Wynter penned a critical text titled “‘No Humans Involved’: An Open Letter to My Colleagues.” The title refers to an internal code that was used by the Los Angeles Police Department, usually in relation to cases that disproportionately involved Black and Brown Angelenos who were often identified as sex workers, gang members, or drug traffickers. The code became public knowledge in 1992, shortly after the trial and ultimate acquittal of the four police officers charged with the use of excessive force in the brutal beating of Rodney King. In her open letter, written to her colleagues as a call to action, Wynter argues that the origins of Western humanism, steeped in imperial pursuits and colonial violence, determine contemporary constructs of race, gender, class, sexuality, and other categories that continue to shape our lived experience and justify or deny our humanity. She asks, “How did they come to conceive of what it means to be both human and North American in the kinds of terms (i.e., to be White, of Euro-American culture and descent, middle-class, college-educated and suburban) within whose logic the jobless and usually school drop-out/push-out category of young Black males can be perceived, and therefore behaved towards, only as the Lack of the human, the Conceptual Other to being North American?”

“The exhibition, No Humans Involved, showcases the work of Eddie Aparicio, Tau Lewis, Las Nietas de Nono, Sondra Perry, SANGREE, WangShui, and Wilmer Wilson IV, whose practices disrupts and interrogate Western ideals of humanism. Through conceptual and material explorations, these artists and collectives across the diverse regions of the diasporic Americas consider the systems, institutions, lineages, and cultural objects that uphold our sense of being via sculpture, textiles, performance, installation, and multimedia interventions. By centering the nonhuman or anti-human as a point of departure, highlighting ancient technologies, and utilizing artificial intelligence software, No Humans Involved attempts to provide a contemporary response to Wynter’s original call to action.”

Yeast and light.

Cloth and fabric become art.

Sculpture and form.

My first inclination was to offer up some biographical information about the man behind this museum, but then second thoughts crept into my head after reading about his communist father, his illegal campaign donations to President Nixon, and his great-grandson, an actor who might have cannibalistic tendencies. So, this is from the private art collection of a wealthy oil tycoon who is now dead and gone.

This was probably my favorite piece in the collection; it’s from Gustave Moreau and is titled Salomé Dancing before Herod.

Looking at the details, it’s obvious why Moreau required seven years to finish this work.

The dark, brooding, almost despairing look of the subject is appealing to my senses and is apparently quite contrary to what this artist would normally paint, which was fruit and flowers. This piece from Henri Fantin-Latour is titled Portrait of Miss Edith Crowe. I can’t say I’ve consciously ever seen his work before, but I did learn that he’s mentioned in In Search of Lost Time by Marcel Proust with the following:

“Many young women’s hands would be incapable of doing what I see there,” said the Prince, pointing to Mme de Villeparisis’s unfinished watercolors. And he asked her whether she had seen the flower painting by Fantin-Latour which had recently been exhibited. (From The Guermantes Way)

Detail from Grape Pickers at Lunch by Renoir.

Wow, I wasn’t expecting a Van Gogh here. There’s no good reason one shouldn’t be here, but they do seem rare. Maybe it’s because after visiting the Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam back in the 20th century and seeing so many in one place, nothing compares. This particular work is titled Hospital at Saint-Rémy.

The hospital referenced is in Provence, France, and its full name is Saint-Paul de Mausole. Van Gogh spent a year at this asylum back in 1889 when his mental health was failing him. Apparently, his creative skills were still intact as he painted a number of works during his stay. While it should be obvious, I’ll point it out anyway: this is a close-up detail from the painting above it.

From the Hammer website:

Witch Hunt presents the work of 16 mid-career women artists from 13 countries who use feminist, queer, and decolonial strategies to investigate current and historical political events, social conditions, and overlooked or suppressed artistic legacies. The artists have demonstrated decades-long commitments to feminist creative practice as a subversive, expansive, and oftentimes collaborative methodology. Together, their works provide an opportunity to examine ideas, expand awareness, and encourage dialogue about urgent contemporary issues, such as the body and its vulnerabilities; women’s rights and representation, the erasure of women’s contributions to critical movements and histories, the impact of technologies of surveillance; environmental justice; the queering of political discourse; the imperative for feminist practice to be inclusive and intersectional; and the power of collective action.

This enormous multi-panel weaving is from Otobong Nkanga, originally from Nigeria but now living in Antwerp, Belgium. Caroline and I both noticed that a lot of the artists featured here at the Hammer Museum are living in Europe, could it have something to do with how Europe supports artists?

Teresa Margolles was the other artist in this exhibit who struck a chord with me as she depicts a reality of life that I know, that I’ve seen, and doesn’t shy away from offering a look into the world that is contrary to the nonsense we share as our hoped for fantasy.

From the Hammer, it’s a short walk to Tehrangeles, a.k.a. Little Persia, where we went right over to the Attari Grill to try the lamb-brain-and-tongue sandwich only to learn they were already out of brain [a common complaint these days, it seems – Caroline], so tongue alone will have to be it. Sadly, this didn’t photograph well, and if I can cut a photo here and there, then I have less writing I need to deal with. Just across the street from lunch was the Saffron and Rose Ice Cream shop. Diabetes be damned, Persian ice cream is well worth the cheat.

And with that, we were on our way out of L.A. on a beautiful day after a beautiful weekend filled with beautiful moments.

Before long, it would be dark with hundreds of miles left until we reached home, but the investment of intention paid off once again and allowed us to start 2022 with incredible riches of experience.

1st Trip of 2022 – Los Angeles

Arizona desert off Highway 10

While parts of America shiver with the onset of winter and others recover from the holidays, Caroline and I are off taking our first trip of 2022. We are traveling west across the Arizona desert to an old, familiar place.

Caroline Wise and John Wise on the California State Line

Yep, right into California we drove, and what a long drive it’ll be, or so it felt. It was 3:45 p.m., just moments before this selfie, and though we just shaved an hour off our time because entering the Pacific Time Zone jumped us back to 2:45, it would be nearly 9:00 p.m. before reaching our lodging over near Santa Monica.

California desert off Highway 10

Like the romance of yore, we travel west into the sunset after a quick stop for a snack at Popeye’s Louisiana Kitchen in Blythe, along with coffees from Starbucks, as the convenience of modern adventures should be fully indulgent. For those who know about our reading books while we head down the highway, Caroline continued with a blog from someone who’s summarizing Marcel Proust’s In Search Of Lost Time to ensure that we are getting all we can from this reading of such a long book. It’s unlikely we’ll be able to afford a second reading of this 1.2-million-word tome. After catching up with the summary to the end of book 1, we returned to the novel, of which there are still six more volumes to go.

Caroline Wise at Mix Bowl in Pomona, California

I’ll have to don my hypocrite hat for this admission. Coming from “Mr. Contradiction,” who is forever telling anyone who’ll listen to my ad nauseam repetitions of do-as-I-say advice, here we are stopping at Mix Bowl off Indian Hill Blvd in Pomona, California, which, according to a 2019 report, is only one of 29,560 restaurants in the greater Los Angeles area. But we keep going back; why, though? It’ll hurt my fingers to admit this as I type it out: nostalgia plays a large role. Some 25 years ago, we stumbled upon this place when it was named Big Bowl (legal problems forced the name change); well, we loved it so much we returned on subsequent visits and now seem to need to stop at least once on the way in or out of Southern California. We did “Mix” it up this visit, though, by ordering two new dishes out of three.

Wilshire Motel in Los Angeles

This is our little bungalow motel on Wilshire Blvd we’ve stayed at maybe a dozen prior visits to the area. We are only 3.5 miles from the Santa Monica Pier on the Pacific Ocean, and while we’d be smart to head right down, we’re tired after the 400-mile drive on a Friday afternoon that included a fair amount of traffic, the longest line we’ve ever seen at an In-N-Out Burger up the street from Mix Bowl, that snack-and-coffee break I mentioned, and of course, a stop for gas. With nothing left to share, we’ll turn this down and head to sleep so we might get an early start with the rising sun come morning.

Family Time – Day 2

Bosque del Apache near Socorro, New Mexico

Darkness and cold greeted us as we left our hotel, but the tradeoff was arriving at Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge at the cusp of daybreak. We’ve been here before when it was even colder and the pond we are standing next to was frozen over. But who cares about some chilly weather when already knowing what to expect, we dressed appropriately in order to brave whatever the day had to offer us. The beautiful early morning reflections are not the primary reasons we are here adjacent to the White Sands Missle Range on the Rio Grande River.

Bosque del Apache near Socorro, New Mexico

Birds, we are here for birds, lots of them. This early, while finding our place in the Refuge, we are not specifically looking for sandhill cranes yet; that’s them standing over their reflections. Nope, we have other birds in our sights. If these first two images above were the best I would have captured while making this visit, I could have gone home happy to have experienced such beautiful sights.

Bosque del Apache near Socorro, New Mexico

But we weren’t done witnessing the extraordinary, and then again, who would have driven 450 miles (725km) for only 10 minutes of such things? Not us; we were here to milk nature in order to imbibe this intoxicating mixture of elements from the sky, water, creatures, plants, dirt, sound, smell, and feel. Stirring this all to life was a still-invisible giant ball of fire which was sending us hints like the image above that it was on its way back, just like the snow geese.

Bosque del Apache near Socorro, New Mexico

For a good half hour, the snow geese flew in from various corners around the refuge. For reasons beyond our human brains, these bird-brained elegant animals capable of flight choose to congregate here on this lake right before us. They squawk and chatter in a secret language to which the cranes don’t seem to pay any attention, but I do. I want to know what they are saying because after enough of them have come together in a giant love puddle of snow gooseness, they hatch a masterplan that is executed in an instant with a precision that boggles my mind.

Bosque del Apache near Socorro, New Mexico

That instant arrives when thousands of snow geese launch themselves off the water and into the sky on their way to points across the landscape to forage for food that their advanced eye-sight is able to glean in ways that insinuate that my own vision might be inferior.

Bosque del Apache near Socorro, New Mexico

Into the fiery sky, they disperse while we, who will never know what the freedom of self-powered flight is like, stand in awe, gawking at the spectacle of a giant flock of birds.

Bosque del Apache near Socorro, New Mexico

In a flash, only the cranes remain.

Bosque del Apache near Socorro, New Mexico

Well, not only the cranes, as incredible beauty continued hanging out with us hearty travelers who were trying our best to absorb every bit of the visual symphony the scenery was wrapping us in.

Bosque del Apache near Socorro, New Mexico

Hey, rogue goose, where has your flock gone or are you going solo taking your own path?

Bosque del Apache near Socorro, New Mexico

Don’t hesitate to note the important stuff, as some knowledge is transitory, like these birds flying across the scene. What I’m trying to say is that I think we might be at another pond at this point, but I can’t be certain. I’ve looked at the landmarks in the background, but I’m at a loss to find any specificity of location. Does it really matter?

Bosque del Apache near Socorro, New Mexico

I’ll go out on a limb and claim that this murmuration of blackbirds are starlings, but if they really are, I can’t really know.

Bosque del Apache near Socorro, New Mexico

Sure, the grasses are brown, gold, reddish, and kind of yellow in a palette of fall and winter hues, as are the leafless dormant trees passing through this season, but should you choose to see stagnation, lack of life, or a general sort of dullness, you might be missing the bigger picture. On closer view, the landscape is full of potential and hints of what was in the months leading up to this perfect moment. To be honest, I, probably like you, find particular beauty in scenes such as what is pictured in the very top photo above, but I’d have to attribute that to the rarity of those sights found at dawn. Those early moments at the beginning of the day or the final glow of the last remnants after the sun has dipped below the horizon typically last less than an hour, while the midday light will remain with us for many hours, bathing what we look at in light that isn’t so nuanced and transitory.

Sadly, I can hardly see what personal details and characteristics wild animals have to offer aside from their presence. Obviously, I can tell babies and juveniles from adults, but I cannot comprehend the rarity of them in this environment as I can when relying on photographs where the aging process and choice in clothes convey what stage or point in life the person was. While Jane Goodall was lucky enough to live with apes long enough to identify their personalities and people who have pets learn those animals’ characteristics, I cannot take up a spot here at the refuge where I might encounter the same snow goose or crane on a day to day basis. Instead, I’m stuck with these two loons.

And for loons, there’s only one place to eat while in Socorro, New Mexico and that’s right here at the El Camino Family Restaurant where little more than 12 hours ago we had dinner. Then, in another 8 or 9 hours from now, we’ll be right back here for dinner again, but right now, on this wonderful Christmas morning, we are grabbing breakfast.

Bosque del Apache near Socorro, New Mexico

We’d discussed heading north to visit the Salinas Pueblo Missions National Monument series of church ruins but instead opted to return to the Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge (by the way, Bosque is pronounced “bohs-kee” in these parts. We came back for some of the trails we’d never walked before.

Bosque del Apache near Socorro, New Mexico

And the man said unto nature, “We humans, in our generosity, have carved out this fraction of the domain your ancestors once knew, but we are not heartless to your plight of a shrinking domain, so here, take this river bottomland we are not interested in and call this home.” Up here on this cliffside, we assumed our perch over the kingdom of creatures so we might better sense the rule of all that is below. This is the joy of being GODS.

Bosque del Apache near Socorro, New Mexico

So, if you are the god you so arrogantly claim, how about you demonstrate that lofty position and chow down on this yummy cactus paddle as the javelinas do?

Bosque del Apache near Socorro, New Mexico

Or might you be so humble as to organize the atomic and molecular structure of the universe to produce plants just like the force of evolutionary nature does?

Oh, I see how it is; we are here to sow destruction, create entertainment that satisfies our boredom of being horrifically aware of our existence, and steal what we can from all that is or might be as it feeds our sense of superiority. The depth required to be true creators and stewards is elusive to our puny-spirited population of idiots. But not us; we are here on Christmas Day to tread lightly, eschew entertainment and the consumerist experience to find the enchantment nature is putting on display in crazy abundance, delight in this brief moment of existence, and through it all, we hope that we’ve not intruded upon the potential of other life to indulge in another perfect day too.

Bosque del Apache near Socorro, New Mexico

While we were here at the Bosque, we walked along, chatted, and obviously took a significant number of photos, maybe too many. Then again, these images capture precisely the world as it looked to us, and as such, they appear unique as they coincide with our memories, whereas someone else’s photo taken on a different day won’t strike the same notes as these will. True, there are images I’ll share here that fail to readily demonstrate in an apparent way why I thought there was something extraordinary about the view and would certainly fail to compel someone else to walk in our footsteps, but they sing to my memories. As others go into their unfolding world using the luxury of digital photography and even a rudimentary ability to write, I’d like to encourage people to record their world in this slow medium, meaning not using video, and then, years down the road revisit these documents and appreciate just how amazing your own memory is in bringing you back to something that might have otherwise been long forgotten.

Bosque del Apache near Socorro, New Mexico

Hello, future recollections of that day back at the end of 2021 when Caroline, Jessica, and I strolled through this wildlife refuge under fluffy white clouds set against a deep blue sky, and with the sounds of birds in our ears, we just walked along with nowhere else to be.

Bosque del Apache near Socorro, New Mexico

Maybe in that sense, we were much like these deer who couldn’t have cared about the larger world outside of their immediate experience. They were in the moment having deer thoughts and doing deer things just as we were having human moments doing human things, totally unconcerned with what was happening in the larger outside world beyond being right here.

Bosque del Apache near Socorro, New Mexico

Screwbean mesquite is a species of the tree that, as far as I can determine with 2 minutes of research on Google, will have that mesquite flavor desired by grillers across the southwest. As for the beans, I’m going to invite Caroline during her editing of this post to learn about the cooking potential they might have and share what she finds. [Screwbean mesquite pods are edible, particularly ground into flour that is gluten-free and nutrient-rich. However, other mesquite species are said to be more flavorful. – Caroline]

Bosque del Apache near Socorro, New Mexico

The Rio Viejo trail follows a former riverbed of the Rio Grande that’s now on the other side of a berm to our far left. In its stead is this trail, the screwbean mesquite trees, along with a bunch of cottonwoods. At this time of day, though, there weren’t many birds here.

Bosque del Apache near Socorro, New Mexico

But there was a group of javelina coming out of the nearby brush, and as we stood silently, allowing them to do and go about their business, they slowed down, checked us out, and continued on their way.

Bosque del Apache near Socorro, New Mexico

We counted eight javelinas in this squadron (I looked that up). Walking out of the bush and prior to sensing us, they were preoccupied foraging for whatever it was they were sampling from the forest floor. I’m guessing we were afforded the close encounter with these peccaries due to the direction the wind was blowing, but when they got within about 20 feet of us, they’d stop, and while looking straight at us, their snouts started frantically wiggling as though they were evaluating the potential threat in front of them that they likely could barely see. Lucky us, we could see them all quite clearly, but unfortunately, they never were in the right position for us to gather a good sniff of their musky stink that earned them the nickname skunk pigs.

Bosque del Apache near Socorro, New Mexico

We’ve continued up the dirt road going north to position ourselves near the Coyote Deck. From here, we’ll just hang out a good long while before continuing the loop toward where our day began.

Bosque del Apache near Socorro, New Mexico

From corners far and wide, the geese are heading back to the safety of the ponds where they can pull up their pillows and get some rest, safe from the coyotes that would gladly make feasts of the abundance of these feathery treats.

Bosque del Apache near Socorro, New Mexico

Just as we were about to head back to the hotel so we could catch something or other on TV, maybe some football, even more birds came flying in. Don’t you just hate it when you know there’s something worthwhile on the television and nature keeps interrupting you from getting back to the important stuff, like watching all of those old Christmas movies you’ve already seen dozens of times before because It’s a Wonderful Life is just that great? Yeah, well, I was being cheeky, and although it’s Christmas day and the romantic drivel of consumer-driven merrymaking is supposed to be all the rage along with this fakey nostalgia for such ugly, repetitive nonsense, I’d rather tell you to go stuff yourself regarding traditions…watching wild birds in the air rocks while roasted geese on your table are sad and tragic, just like your pathetic lives in front of idiot boxes.

Bosque del Apache near Socorro, New Mexico

Everything in that paragraph above was written by my wife, Caroline, against my wishes as I would never take such Scrooge-like digs at this Great American Holiday, which represents the best of what we have to offer as a free and decent people. As a matter of fact, I regret that we skipped out of Phoenix for years so we could avoid my mother during Thanksgiving, as who wanted to be part of that shit show?

Editors Note: Again, my wife has taken certain liberties with this last sentence to make me appear as some kind of crude curmudgeon with a broken sentimentality organ. I would never talk ill of the dead.

Note of Truth: Okay, so I take full responsibility for all of the text in this post, but after writing for the 28 photos that preceded this descent into farce, I just couldn’t come up with nice flowery things to continue rambling about the refuge and our delight at being here. So, I took a tangent, but after 2,000 words and so many photos, there’s NO WAY anyone is still reading this; even the Google indexing algorithm probably dipped out about a thousand words ago.

Bosque del Apache near Socorro, New Mexico

Hey John, instead of turning this obviously wonderful experience into a tragic parody of some poorly executed attempt at humor, why not just delete some photos, consolidate the text, and make this easier on all of us? My best answer is, when I was choosing photos in the days leading up to the point I’d start writing, I was certain that I required every single photo I’d chosen because each had the potential to be great if only I could add some meaningful poetic musings to elevate them. Instead, I’ve, in effect, maligned the magnificence of these cranes, some geese, too, as I channeled grumpy John.

Then again, do I really look all that grumpy? By the way, my daughter used to have the world’s stinkiest feet. We recently learned it could have been due to a type of bacteria that apparently also affects dogs, so if I were a betting man, I’d say my weird-ass daughter likely played footsy with her dogs back when they were still alive. I point out their life status as after staying with her in more than a few hotel rooms this year; we’ve not had one gacking moment, not even a little one. That’s my daughter in the middle for those of you who don’t know, and maybe I should also point out finally that she blogs, occasionally as poorly as I do, over at TheJessicaness.

Bosque del Apache near Socorro, New Mexico

Bright golden grass growing out of the shallow waters of this pond with the sun setting couldn’t be left behind. Writing that, I can’t help but think about how often I have wanted to leave my daughter and her rotting feet behind, but something compelled me to keep dragging her along. Ha, no, that didn’t happen; she’s married, and lucky for me, her husband Caleb somehow adapted to enduring the wretched stench of a magnitude compared to which even my farts smelled subtle and nearly insignificant. But enough of this airing of dirty feet on my eloquent and lovely blog I’m soiling with remembering my daughter just this way on Christmas; I’ll move on, I swear.

Bosque del Apache near Socorro, New Mexico

Sunset is coming, which means we are about to leave for dinner, and I have nothing else to say.

Bosque del Apache near Socorro, New Mexico

Really, nothing. Okay, here’s a Merry Christmas, but that’s it.

Family Time – Day 1

Caroline Wise, Jessica Aldridge, and John Wise on the road in Arizona

What is the problem with these women I’m traveling with? We are delving into the depths of hell, and they smile while my look of incredulity (not to be confused with uncertainty if my fart was wet) is signaling that something is wrong in this car we are currently in. I’ve said it before, and I should say it again: driving is no excuse to stop taking selfies in a moving vehicle, even if that selfie requires multiple takes and posing.

My original plan saw us leaving Phoenix at 9:30 for the road eastward that would bring us to Miami, Arizona, and the fine Mexican cuisine found at Guayo’s El Rey, specifically their carne asada, which is probably the best I’ve ever had. By leaving at 9:30, we’d arrive as they opened the doors at 11:00; well, we didn’t get out until shortly after 11:00 because I got stuck conversing with an old friend at the coffee shop into which we were dipping for 2 minutes in order to grab coffees for the road. It turned out that we were all finished with our coffees before we ever got underway.

Out near Safford, Arizona

Hey, what’s this hell you speak of? First things first, lunch was amazing, and with stomachs stuffed full, we were back out on Highway 60, driving east through heavy rain until we reached Highway 70 and continued towards Lordsburg, New Mexico. Somewhere out on the San Carlos Apache Indian Reservation, the clouds started breaking up, and near Safford, Arizona, we were treated to dramatic skies and this small bit of rainbow.

Last night (or was it this morning?), we finally decided on our reading material for this road trip: Lord Of Dark Places by Hal Bennett. Mind you that Caroline and I are currently immersed in Marcel Proust’s In Search of Lost Time, but dropping Jessica right into the middle of that book (we’ve already finished Swann’s Way, which is Part 1 of 5) would be unfair to her as it takes some time to get into the flow of this tome of flowery prose, so we opted to start something else.

Out near Safford, Arizona

Something else is an appropriate description of Lord of Dark Places. I first heard of this book from YouTuber Cliff Sergeant, who publishes under the channel titled Better Than Food.

Out near Safford, Arizona

Lord of Dark Places opens rough and becomes jagged quickly. Glimmers of light are not to be found under the gloom as the horizon is filling with carnage and depravity. I am reluctant to share that we’d even read this or would be willing to mention the name of this gut-puncher, but the incredible writing pulls you forward like a log being dragged into a buzzsaw. While I’ve now given this nod to Lord of Dark Places, I find myself unable to share much more than the fact that we could barely travel more than a couple of minutes before the next stretch of rough, cringy road was encountered and, obviously, I’m not referring to the road on which we are driving east.

Jessica Aldridge in Duncan, Arizona

Here we are ten years after Jessica, and I passed through here on a day trip out of Phoenix at the very same truck in Duncan, Arizona, in which she sat as part of a short story that was included in a book we put together for her during a spring break.

Somewhere in southwest New Mexico

We are near the state border with New Mexico and still fully entrenched and mesmerized with the book that continues to deliver body blows to our senses, though the aesthetics of what is unfolding couldn’t be more real.

Somewhere in southwest New Mexico

Day is about to give way to night, and the delay from the poor weather earlier is impacting what time we thought we’d arrive in Socorro, but we should make it in time.

Jessica Aldridge in Socorro, New Mexico

It’s 8:30 as we pull into a parking spot at the El Camino Family Restaurant in Socorro, New Mexico. While Jessica was just here with me back in August, Caroline hasn’t been here in years. It’s been said countless times before, but this New Mexican version of Denny’s is our favorite roadside stop for breakfast or dinner while we are visiting the western side of the state. Getting in at this time was nearly too late as the kitchen now stops taking orders at 9:15; sadly, prior to the pandemic, this place was open 24/7.

Today’s journey across the desert, while beautiful, was overshadowed by the power and depravity found in Lord of Dark Places and the places it brought us to. We won’t have a lot of time in the book on Christmas day as we have other plans that won’t see us on the road very much, but having gotten halfway through it, we should be able to finish it on the way home. As for my Steak Tampico here at El Camino? I’m never disappointed with the same thing I have every time we eat here.

North To Utah As Alaska Is Too Far

The day starts like any other day on the streets of Phoenix, Arizona. Shortly after 5:30 in the morning, Caroline and I find ourselves checking out the Christmas lights. We won’t have a lot of time to dawdle as after the sun rises, one of us will be staying home, and the other of us will be heading up the road to Utah, as why not?

Brinn shows up on time, but before we start the endurance test of our butts, backs, and hips, we have to stop in at King Coffee, a regular stop for coffee for me and occasionally for Brinn too. This is not King Coffee.

As a matter of fact, we’re no longer anywhere near Phoenix but well north of Flagstaff by this time. An abandoned old motel in Gray Mountain has become a bit of an art project, well, the outside, anyway.

The inside of what remains of this roadside lodge is now questionable at best, sketchy at least, and interesting in some weird way like so many of the rotting remains from another age one finds while driving around America.

Fresh blacktop slicing a deep black trail across the red and gray desert makes for an interesting contrast, but the poverty up here still retains the same bleak hostility of neglect that economic isolation puts on the population of these native lands.

We were able to catch some rafters passing under the Navajo Bridge that crosses the Colorado River here in Northern Arizona. Minutes ago, we were able to watch one condor perched on the girders of the opposite bridge while four others were flying about further downriver. With five of these birds on view and sadly unable to capture an adequate image of these majestic rare birds, I’d like to think that their reintroduction to the Canyon system 25 years ago is looking successful.

I tried yelling down to this private trip of river rafters, but their music was too loud to hear anything else, so I don’t believe they heard me informing them about condors just ahead.

There are people who raft rivers who would look at this photo and know exactly where I’m going next.

John Wise at Lees Ferry Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Yep, Lees Ferry, a.k.a. mile marker zero in the Grand Canyon National Park and the starting point for Colorado River adventures that depart from right here.

Lees Ferry Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

The first riffle of white water in the Grand Canyon. Eleven years ago, when we first passed over this minor speed bump, from my perspective in the front of a dory, this was as terrifying as anything I could imagine. It turned out that this was nothing compared to what lay ahead. Read about that day starting at THIS LINK.

Our little two-day road trip is taking us up through the Vermillion Cliffs and will have us pass by the shuttered-for-the-season turn-off to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon.

Good thing Lefevre Overlook isn’t popular with influencers yet because when Brinn and I pulled in, there was nobody else here enjoying the view. It wasn’t for lack of traffic as all day we’d been surrounded by those racing to get somewhere fast while this gray-haired old man plodded along, oblivious to how many middle fingers might have been thrown my way. The truth is that I don’t have time to race across the landscape failing to see more than a few of the details as one never knows how often they’ll pass through parts of a country not exactly convenient to visit.

The view from Lefevre Ridge.

Brinn Aaron in Utah

Brinn in Utah. Yesterday, while he and I were out between Superior and Globe down in central Arizona, he’d mentioned Utah a few times, so I had to ask, why? He’d never been to Utah, which was when, after a few minutes of thinking about that, I asked if he’d like to head up this weekend. Obviously, he agreed.

While we didn’t take the opportunity to have some “Ho-Made” pies, we did fill up on gas at the station next door, snapped a photo, and waved to our left as Zion National Park was not on today’s agenda. We are still heading north. According to an old blog post, Caroline and I first passed this place nearly 20 years ago.

Bryce National Park seems to come to mind.

After our stop at the old motel, a half-hour at Navajo Bridge, another half-hour (or so) detouring to Lees Ferry, and lunch at the Marble Canyon Restaurant, the remaining light of day is quickly escaping us.

While hints of what was to come tomorrow were able to be gleaned in the last moments of twilight, we arrived in Bryce just outside the national park when it was well dark and getting mighty cold.