12-Mile Hike – Williams, Arizona

Caroline Wise and John Wise at the Sycamore Rim Trailhead in Williams, Arizona

This feels like a strange admission, but Caroline and I have never gone on a 12-mile hike before. We’ve walked that distance plenty of times in New York, Washington D.C., Budapest, Frankfurt, and some other places, but we’ve not intentionally chosen a moderately difficult trail up at 7,000 feet of elevation before. Just last night, we had struck this trail off the itinerary due to a prediction for rain and thunderstorms, but by this morning, it looked like that risk had passed. So, a few miles up the road and then 18 miles down a dirt road, we made our way to the Sycamore Rim Trailhead.

Sycamore Rim Trail in Williams, Arizona

First off, my apologies for the 39 photos that accompany this post, but after us walking 12 miles and me so busy out here snapping photos, this is exactly what you should have expected. As a matter of fact, my first pass on prepping images offered up 63 potential visuals I might have liked to share, but considering my obsession with writing a little something to each image, that’s just absurd, so I pared 24 photos that will never be posted here.

Sycamore Rim Trail in Williams, Arizona

What is the sense of excitement that arrives with heading down a new trail? We’ll not discover a new place, species of plant or animal, or treasure aside from all of those things, metaphorically gracing our eyes and ears with an experience that will feed our desire for another new trail in the days and weeks ahead.

Sycamore Rim Trail in Williams, Arizona

Water, snacks, binoculars, a camera, and sunscreen are the things that travel with us. We don’t carry a gun or bear spray or fear that we’ll need those things; maybe we are too optimistic or naive.

Sycamore Rim Trail in Williams, Arizona

Out of our curiosity, we are possibly prone to being somewhat pollyannish, but I, for one, cannot help thinking, live by the sword, die by the sword. If we remain considerate of the risks, understand we should always make enough sound to ward off predatory animals, and consider the real likelihood of an armed aggressor having made the effort to look for victims in a remote location where finding someone is not a certainty, then I tend to want to believe that we’ll be okay.

Sycamore Rim Trail in Williams, Arizona

Instead, we focus on the journey and the surprising things we’ll see, even when those things are not exactly new but iterations of a theme. Come to think about it, much in life is about iterations of things where, hopefully, the best parts never grow old and boring. To that end, what is our responsibility to assign values to what is good and what is likely destructive? How can we begin understanding those relationships of good and bad when knowledge is ever-evolving, mutable, and influenced by culture?

Sycamore Rim Trail in Williams, Arizona

Take this Gambel oak leaf, for example; I find it important due to its role in the health of a forest for the biodiversity and aesthetics it imparts on my journey, while none of those attributes can be assigned to a television. Being outdoors in the world of wild nature, I find a kind of internal reset button where my brain is washed clean of the repetition of fixed imagery that greets me on a daily basis while surviving in a city. As the forest breathes, my mind takes in a fresh inhalation of life-sustaining nature that goes beyond entertainment and connects me to the primordial.

Sycamore Rim Trail in Williams, Arizona

Staring into the distance over a meadow at a mountain, into a canyon, or over the shimmering silver sea, I’m looking beyond what is easily grasped. My modern urban life only needs to be afforded so I can collect the self-contained packets of existence that push aside the mundane, constant repetition of living in the city. We seem to surrender ourselves to a kind of prison where our need for the novel is replaced by an addiction to the familiar.

Sycamore Rim Trail in Williams, Arizona

For those not crushed under the relentless pressure of conformity, they trudge forward in search of discovering everything. Novelty arrives when studying something new about elliptical curves, inexplicably large 3.3 billion light-year wide giant arcs that risk challenging our understanding of the universe, learning about tessellation in computational design, or any multitude of complex subjects or the fineries of long mastered crafts that extend our own personal knowledge and skill set. Novelty is the key to prying open the calcified mind, but it’s also dangerous if too many seek out its intoxication.

Sycamore Rim Trail in Williams, Arizona

Unleash curiosity, satisfy it with the psychedelic inebriation found in discovery, and then challenge it incessantly with access to the vibrant library of human knowledge and the interpretation of nature and culture, and you may never be able to contain the freedom of the individual who must now spend their days seeking.

Caroline Wise on the Sycamore Rim Trail in Williams, Arizona

We are not nerds; that’s a pejorative term to marginalize the radically curious in order to diminish their potential impact on the “normals.” Patriots, fans, devotees, and even junkies are preferable descriptors compared to those that might inspire others to venture out on a different path. Calling oneself a member of one of these groups proves that the adherent belongs to something greater. One skull in this photo is of a living and aware creature, while the other is a now-dead, forgotten, faceless animal that will never be known. The same goes for patriots, fans, devotees, and junkies; they are part of a dying herd that will fall to the side, never to have been anything more than an anonymous creature. Those who rise to inspire the patriot, draw in the fan, or bring the devotee to the flock will better know freedom and curiosity as they exploit the herd to dedicate themselves to affording the person at the top a kind of status that their followers live vicariously through instead of grabbing life by the horns for their own selfish realization.

Sycamore Rim Trail in Williams, Arizona

I know that none of this is new, not here on my blog, not in philosophy, not in our works of fiction, so why then does the majority of humanity relinquish their own quest for an abundance of life as though they feared that the watering hole of knowledge and experience would be drained prior to their ability to arrive with a thirst of curiosity?

Sycamore Rim Trail in Williams, Arizona

Like music that plays out in all directions for those present to partake in its magical sounds, the tools for feeding our minds are infinitely more numerous than all the lilies in this pond and all the other ponds in this forest. Yet, too often, we choose to dull the spectacular nature of potential that could be found within each of us by affording greater value to a vast number of people around us, all being able to simultaneously share how we each gazed upon the exact same lily pad while missing the pond, insects, boulders, mountains, and forest wherein the lily pad lives. This is what we do with memes, television, talk about the weather, sports, political figures, and celebrity.

Sycamore Rim Trail in Williams, Arizona

For me, the weather is apparent by what’s in front of me and overhead; my ache for celebrity is satisfied looking into my wife’s eyes. Television needn’t be set right here in these rocks, so I might have a path I can follow if I’m to arrive at the end of the show/trail. My inner politician lives in my reasoning of what’s personally important to me instead of relying on outside personalities to tell me on a daily basis what’s important to them.

Sycamore Rim Trail in Williams, Arizona

My sad reality is that the chasm between self-awareness, self-determination, and curiosity with the other side where cultural suicide, banality, war, and total submission is a distance I cannot bridge no matter the thousands of words I try to coerce into telling a story I think might strike the eyes and ears of those I never reach. Instead, here I am on that edge, and everything I want and need is here for the taking. You see no one else competing with Caroline and me for this experience because it’s only valuable to the tiniest minority of those who not only venture out but venture deep within.

Sycamore Rim Trail in Williams, Arizona

I had to research this next bit, but I’d be willing to wager that at least in the United States, many people know who Lena Headey is and her character Queen Cersei as played on the TV series Game of Thrones. I didn’t know her or her role prior to looking up who was the most widely known character on that show, and while millions, if not tens of millions, know the depiction and whatever controversy that surrounded this fictional person, I am able to lay claim that I’m the only human being in the existence of our species to ever look upon this particular flower known as Erigeron a.k.a., Fleabane in this forest on this day. Does this make me better than others? Absolutely not. I’m well aware that I’m as anonymous as any particular leaf or blade of grass from the entirety of the 1.8 million acres (7,300 square kilometers) that comprise the Kaibab National Forest in which we are hiking today.

Sycamore Rim Trail in Williams, Arizona

But for ourselves, we are the Spirit of Ecstasy hood ornament on a Rolls Royce, gliding through these woods with only the two of us here to appreciate the rarity of such an experience. This, though, is a disservice to the idea of trying to establish some level of individuality when I equate our existence to an emblem that others can relate to because, collectively, our sense of brand awareness is greater than our real knowledge of individuality.

Sycamore Rim Trail in Williams, Arizona

My foundation is not pop culture; it is not Mad Magazine or TikTok videos. I’ve not constructed my underpinnings on the Marvel Universe, Mixed Martial Arts, or the Los Angeles Lakers. My base is not a syrupy plateau of smiles, fake superlatives, and the affirmation of likes. What underlies my being is the deep desire for knowledge and love; it is a lot of isolation because the core of a person, like that of the earth, does not reveal itself easily. It is the shared histories of ancient cultures that allow me to stand atop the precipice of what comes next. The certainty that you’ll survive the next step is not guaranteed, but what lies in the unknown, once discovered, has a greater chance of becoming a part of you than passively having seen things that leave bits of jingles, slogans, or scenes in your memories. These things have nothing to do with you aside from the collective experience that affirms that you, too, are just like your neighbor.

Sycamore Rim Trail in Williams, Arizona

Now, please don’t get it in your head that, while Caroline and I stroll through these environs, I’m knee-deep in the immersion of profound philosophy because, on the contrary, I’m lost in the spectacle of nature. I strain to hear things near and far, to see the smallest movements among the tree branches above my head and between the leaves below my feet. My mind has been cleared of expectation, song, and critical action. I’m looking for an openness that will allow every impression to find a place in the quiet of solitude instead of the chaos of criticism.

Sycamore Rim Trail in Williams, Arizona

But when I return to Phoenix, and I’m looking back at the images and impressions I took from our excursion, I think about what the real personal gain was of being in the out and what was either brought back or reinforced. It is at this juncture between experience and memories that I’m trying to capture the essence of something, an intrinsic delight or insight, and once I attach some significance to what the journey was, I’ll be even more inclined to seek out similar moments which offer so many things to reflect upon.

Sycamore Rim Trail in Williams, Arizona

The second time around, nothing is the same as it was before; it becomes a new place on a new day, with different weather and different surroundings. The novelty that inspired such elation on a previous adventure might seep in, but with its unique attributes, it will propel these reminiscings into a higher domain. The rainbow fringe on the clouds will take on new hues, the pattern of the trees will offer a different dance, and the horizon will drag us into the delight found in the most wonderful intimacy found in first encounters.

Sycamore Rim Trail in Williams, Arizona

More hillside, more miles, trees, and more trees, clouds streaming by replaced by other clouds changing shape and casting different shadows. You cannot move an inch (2.54cm) without stepping into the future, into beauty, into a version of yourself you were not prior to going forward. Of course, you can choose not to be here, not there, not anywhere. Just stay at home, go to work, and fall into the routine that is set to eternal repeat and you will limit your chances of having to encounter change.

Sycamore Rim Trail in Williams, Arizona

We must shed our skin to grow, a tree must fall to make space for new plants to take hold in the forest, and good and bad weather must trade places so the earth remembers that extremes occur in all things, forcing us to adapt. So why are the angriest among us so averse to change? They burned when the fires of change swept through and claimed their potential to adapt. They failed to stay ahead of the carnage of the past, believing that the way things were yesterday was perfect and, therefore, all they needed to do was hold their ground and demand that the wind stop blowing, the water stop flowing, and the fire extinguishes itself. But we all know that this isn’t reasonable, so why do we allow them to air their grievances on platforms and pedestals that in some way validate their death wishes? You didn’t move when the fires arrived, and now you must return to the earth that gave rise to your moment under the sun; it’s that or sit on the sidelines and recognize that we have ourselves to blame when our obstinance derailed our chances to move with the winds that clear the view ahead.

Sycamore Rim Trail in Williams, Arizona

I find irony in the idea that maybe my writing is repetitious, with nearly the same thing repeated in a dozen different ways, but effectively (ineffectively?) I never really alter or add anything new to the story. As I look over the trees into the canyon with the clouds overhead, I see a scene that contains all the parts of a visual story I’ve seen time and again. I can acknowledge that the diversity in trees and clouds might have a conformity that doesn’t really differ all that much on a day-to-day basis, and yet each configuration I peer at from a vantage point to which my car or legs have brought me delights me all over again. And so when I grasp at the words that seep out of my head and into my fingers, I can quite easily see the same old 26 letters sequenced into familiar words I’ve laid down time and again, and yet I hope that the forest of their configuration and the light of the circumstances in which they are viewed will bring a special nuance only available to the reader who happens to glimpse them at a specific moment where their appearance will ripple in delight within the person standing before them.

Sycamore Rim Trail in Williams, Arizona

Repetition is all around us; it’s in the most beautiful flowers, it’s all over this agave, and, of course, it’s heard in our favorite pieces of music. This repetition reinforces familiarity with those things that hold special aesthetic value for us. We develop an affinity for experiencing them again and again. This is a double-edged sword because words and phrases that are loaded with poison and hate and repeated again and again until they resonate with us can find a value in their repetition that doesn’t allow the listener to escape their toxic influence. So while an agave can be found to be beautiful, there is also a dangerous element to be experienced in the needle-sharp spike, a kind of beauty and the beast plant. Joking aside, the words we play on repeat, the mantras we choose to cultivate, these phrases and ideas condition our view of the world, and thanks to those hungry to capitalize on the vulnerability of the dejected, a part of our population is given over to the violence of mind and body like this agave. They develop defensive mechanisms that ensure others stay away.

Sycamore Rim Trail in Williams, Arizona

Just as I need to bring the lens up to my eye, I must find a similar magnifying device to look within the container of words called my head in search of a diversity of options to help explain what I believe I’ve taken in. You see, nobody has ever introduced me to these plants before, and if it weren’t for this curiosity to see what I’ve not seen before, I too might be caught up with the endless repeats and rhetorical bullshit that have spoonfed the adult-sized people of childish minds that grow angrier, not aware that this hostility is a reflection of their disappointment with themselves for being stuck and unaware of their predicament aside from believing the nonsense planted in their once fertile heads.

Sycamore Rim Trail in Williams, Arizona

If only it were so simple to follow the path ahead to leave the woods. This is true for our adventure out in nature but certainly not valid for the person imprisoned in the cave of their own ignorance. They must first understand the darkness in which they exist and then discover a way through the forest of disbelief and uncertainty. How sad it is that so many of our fellow human beings are, in effect, trapped in biases, fears, jingoistic programming, nationalism, extremist religious dogmas, and the deafening echo chamber they’ve spent much of their lives digging deeper into.

Sycamore Rim Trail in Williams, Arizona

Sure, sunlight cleanses the way forward, but are you inside or outside of your head? Are you at all desirous of seeing a way out of the morass or, like for a pig in a poke, what a thing really is is of no concern so long as your belief tells you that the thing is exactly what you know it to be?

Sycamore Rim Trail in Williams, Arizona

Why do I keep hammering on this subject when the eyes and ears of those I want to reach are sealed shut with minds solidified like these cliffside rocks that are impervious to me screaming at them with the hopes of watching them crumble? Because, like the perennial flower that lives in this forest, I will continue my repetitious existence of repeating myself until one day, the right person happens to be on hand to witness the most perfect bloom captured in the written word, forcing them to stop on their trail to snap a photo and take note.

Sycamore Rim Trail in Williams, Arizona

Yep, that’s me, metaphorically speaking. I’m lichen attached to the rock, leeching minerals from a host. Except in my case, my type of lichen existence is feeding on culture and history. While there is but one human species, there are between 18,000 and 1.5 million species of lichen, so while my words might often appear to be similar to others, you can trust that the hue and pattern of what you think you are seeing are never the same twice.

Sycamore Rim Trail in Williams, Arizona

Now here I am, not at the end of the trail but near the end of what I want to say regarding those things I’ve shared above. The time spent on this post gathers moss, and I need to move on.

Sycamore Rim Trail in Williams, Arizona

I should blame my abrupt desire to exit on the thunderstorm that was closing in on us, but that would be silly as here I am days after the events of this particular Saturday took place, and there is no impending storm on the horizon that would have me move along. But on Saturday afternoon, we were out hiking the Sycamore Canyon Rim and growing tired; our worn feet put us in overdrive, hoping to miss a downpour. It is, after all, monsoon season.

Caroline Wise on the Sycamore Rim Trail in Williams, Arizona

Well, if it’s so important to move along, why was there time for more photos? It’s not every day we venture out on 12-mile hikes, especially considering our advanced ages. Okay, my advanced age of mere months before my 60th birthday. Hmmm, Caroline will probably correct me with this stab at drawing drama into this post so late and remind me that it’s nine months until my 60th, which is the time required to gestate an entire tiny human being.

Sycamore Rim Trail in Williams, Arizona

Thunder grew louder and louder as our feet moved faster and faster, and the dark clouds piled up.

Sycamore Rim Trail in Williams, Arizona

Racing to the end of the trail, to the end of this post, I want to take a detour, a shortcut to something else, anything else, so maybe veering into absurdity and talking of dinosaurs or teleporting to the parking lot might be a humorous approach to being catapulted out of here? But no, that would be too ham-fisted. Oh, was this so transparent that effectively, I did just what I said I shouldn’t do, which has now opened the opportunity to jump to the next image?

Sycamore Rim Trail in Williams, Arizona

Poor weather actually turned part of this hike into a blessing in that the threat of being drenched had us moving faster than we would have otherwise, while the cloud cover shielded us from the worst part of the afternoon sun. Then again, the impact of a bright sun within a canyon allows for a greater appreciation of the details that are muted in the shadows, hence the need to pick out nearby perspectives that allow for a different focus on things that are near instead of broad views that seem to carry more impact.

Sycamore Rim Trail in Williams, Arizona

We already felt our first raindrops when we reached the lily ponds along this part of the loop trail, and so, without fanfare, I snapped off a half-assed view with a tree in the middle of it because, in my rushing mind, some lily pond was better than none.

Sycamore Rim Trail in Williams, Arizona

A strange thing happened on the way to the meadow; we were quickly approaching the ruins of an old wood mill when the rain started coming down hard. I shoved my camera into a plastic bag (the only “rain gear” we had brought along), buried my chin into my chest, adjusted my hat, and got ready to be drenched less than a mile to the car. So I blurted out a loud request for the rain to please wait and ask Caroline about this; it stopped raining! [It did indeed  ^_^]

Sycamore Rim Trail in Williams, Arizona

Over 26,000 steps were had, not on an easy nor a hard trail, but a moderately difficult trail up here at 7,000 feet above the sea and now we can sit down for the first time since we started this hike at 9:30 this morning.

Alltrails map and details of our hike

As you can see from the map and stats from AllTrails, we averaged 27 minutes per mile, had over 2,300 feet (700 meters) of elevation change, and took a total of 6.5 hours to complete our hike. FYI, this is our favorite new app.

Entertainment at Black Barts Steakhouse in Flagstaff, Arizona

Getting over to Flagstaff was easy enough, even with a 30-minute construction delay, but getting out of the car to walk a short distance to the entry of Black Barts Steakhouse was an incredible chore. Not so much due to the rain that was coming down relatively hard now, but our legs had seized up and didn’t seem to want to carry us further. For those of you who know of my food snobbery and might know of this restaurant, do not ask why; it’s one of those institutions that have been up here forever and, as a poor testament to the people I’ve known over the years, came highly recommended. Well, I’ve obviously known more fools than gourmets, as the price/quality ratio was way out of whack. Then again, the better-than-karaoke quality of the servers serenading us diners was right on. The peculiar exclamation point on the day only made everything better, and for those of you who might have a low opinion of our dining choice, and rightfully so, you should have seen our room at the Rodeway Inn back in Williams; it too cannot be recommended. No matter the groaning that goes along with some of our decisions, this was just a terrifically wonderful day that no other July 23rd, 2022, will ever be able to compare to.

Santa Fe to Bandelier National Monument

We are back at the International Folk Art Market (IFAM) here on Saturday morning in Santa Fe, New Mexico. Thanks are in order for Dion Terry for his breakfast recommendation of the Pantry Restaurant over on Cerrillos Road. Prepared with the experience that comes with having been operating since 1948 and mastery of green chili, our first meal of the day hit the mark.

Gasali Adeyemo operates this booth with beautiful Adire cloth from Nigeria. Nothing caught Caroline’s eye, but then she had taken a couple of workshops with Gasali a few years ago and already owns a few pieces.

The center stack of bracelets is missing one now that Caroline bought it from the ladies at Wounaan Craft Group out of Colombia.

Out of Morocco, the women representing Cherry Buttons Cooperative sold Caroline this necklace.

Fariza Sheisheyeva and Svetlana Sheisheyeva of Art Group Saima from Kyrgyzstan sold us this exact piece of felted artwork this morning, our priciest acquisition at IFAM. If budget were of no concern, the work behind Caroline to the right would have been going home with us, but we have our limits.

And finally, Marie Alexandrine Rasoanantenaina of Tahiana Creations from Madagascar and her lovely daughter, who graced the cover of the IFAM 2022 program guide, sold us our first bits of vetiver root. If you’ve never smelled this stuff, it’s impossible to describe, but then again, so is the scent of strawberries.

Lessons learned from our first visit: 1. pace ourselves better so we don’t visit all the booths in an hour. 2. plan on catching some of the entertainment. 3. we must visit the museums. 4. buy tickets for all the days as there we last-minute things Caroline wanted to return one more time but found that Sunday morning entries were sold out. [Add one more: Read the artist stories and jot down if any stand out prior to our visit. I had avoided reading the artist’s write-ups ahead of time so I would not influence myself, but when I went through them later, I realized that I missed a couple. – Caroline]

After leaving Museum Hill, we were ready for our next adventure. Competing for our attention this weekend were visits to two national monuments because as important as fiber arts-related things are to Caroline, she also has yearnings for every junior ranger badge she can earn. Here we are on the Frey Trail at Bandelier National Monument after failing to heed the signs that advised us to take the shuttle from outside the park over to the visitors center. Considering the time of day, we feared we might miss the last shuttle out and decided to head directly to the park and try our luck. At the entry gate, the ranger allowed us to continue on to the Juniper Campground parking lot and wait for the next shuttle. At the shuttle stop, we spied the sign for the Frey Trailhead, which said the visitors center was 1.5 miles away; since the shuttle was about 30 minutes away according to the schedule, we figured we could get there around the same time from the look of the trail ahead.

Oh, it’s not just a relatively flat walk to the visitor’s center?

The view from the Tyuonyi Overlook as we start our steep descent to the valley below.

What an incredible way to enter the heart of the park! Such a lucky turn of fortuitous events that had us coming in this way.

Why is nothing looking familiar? Could it be that the last time we were here was back in 2003, and we were 19 years younger than we are now, with countless adventures between then and now to cloud our memories?

I can’t say I understand the dynamic at work when this motif was painted here at that point in history long ago. Why is this inset from the wall around it? If you look to the upper left of this image, there are remnants of plaster on the wall, and in the photo above this, you can still see plaster on the back walls. So, it’s not strange that walls are adorned with some type of decoration, but this one is inset; I’m confused.

Here we are out in Bandelier National Monument, only able to gaze upon a deep geographic history and a mostly unknowable cultural history that arrived in our age without a clear narrative. Science can tell us about the natural forces at work and the composition of minerals that laid the foundation of the environment, and clues from the ancestral Puebloans help create the fragmented story of those who once lived here, but I want more. What was it like to walk here before it was named Frijoles Canyon, back when the indigenous people building homes here nearly 1,000 years ago were busy living lives?

We use ladders to climb on high, or we don’t, and then return to cars that bring us to food and hotels. We who roam far and wide using machines and electronics are as far removed from these ancestors as purse dogs are from wolves. I want to look into their world, their view of nature, their diet, and how they laughed and loved. Instead, I allow myself mere minutes to glance over the things that are able to be seen, and in some instances, such as the ladder system ahead of me, I can only go so far before my fear of heights will stymie me.

Caroline, on the other hand is better at conquering her fear and ascends the ladders to the platform above. It turns out that 19 years ago, I, too, was able to make my way up there, which allowed me to capture a photo from within a rebuilt kiva that was still visitable back then. Regarding the tilt-shift effect of the image, I took this with my DSLR and have no idea what setting I accidentally hit as I snapped off three similar photos before I recognized the mode dial was not set correctly and switched back.

Hey, National Park Service, I would pay hundreds of dollars per day to sleep in one of those rooms up there, to sit in on a ceremony in a kiva, and to eat the foods that were eaten here a thousand years ago.

It was right here back in 2003 that Caroline sat in the same spot on a similar ladder as I took her photo. Little has changed other than we are aging but our curiosity and fascination are still running hard.

With the visitor center closing soon, Caroline had the briefest of times to plow through the Junior Ranger booklet and answer enough questions to now add this badge to her ever-expanding collection from all over the United States.

Twelve miles down the road but still, in a corner of Bandelier National Monument, we find this: the Tsankawi Ruins trail. We thought we’d skip this short 1.5-mile loop as we were already tired, but the idea of not seeing the seeable when we were right here in this corner of New Mexico seemed like we would have blown an opportunity.

And so we did, up the trail and up the ladder.

An amazing trail has been carved into the soft, porous rock of volcanic ash called tuff.

Maybe I should have tried the narrow passage on the left, but I opted for the “Alternative Route” to the right. Caroline took the steeper, narrow trail.

Up the ladder, I crawled to meet with Caroline again.

Atop the volcanic mesa, we strode, looking for the unexcavated ruins that cannot be seen on the horizon.

And the reason they were not seen is that they truly are ruins collapsed and covered by time.

Along the way, others have found hints from those who once lived here and, fortunately for all who visit, have left these treasures for others to witness.

Okay then, out here at the end of the mesa, some parts of the trail are starting to feel sketchy. Not that it isn’t well constructed, but it’s that old fear of heights thing again that’s making me nervous.

Too late to turn around and, anyway, I really do want to see what is ahead if for no other reason than to admire the genius of this path.

Who knows if others only occasionally stayed here, lived here, or offered it up to visitors arriving from other lands, but today, for nearly a whole minute, it was ours.

On the trail that brought us out here, we were wondering if we’d somehow missed the promised petroglyphs, but here they are.

A close-up from the right of the panel above.

Look closely at the right and left of the slot that’s barely a boot wide, and you can see the wear of hikers who straddle the trail; there are even deeper indentations one can step into in order to not wiggle through the narrow path.

Selfie time before things get hairier, and I don’t mean the length of my beard or ponytail.

This wasn’t the first section that I had to clamp down on my resolve to hike past a gut-clenching razor’s edge of terror. Our car is just out there in the distance; I was not thrilled about really entertaining ideas of a U-turn only to face the other pressure points all over again.

From the National Park Service website regarding the Tsankawi Ruins trail: ” It is not a hike recommended for people with a great fear of heights.” I can admit that it feels great to overcome my weaknesses.

Plus, there are rainbows at the end of the hike. So, I’m lying because we were already on our way back to Santa Fe when we pulled over to snap a photo before it quickly disappeared, but had I gone with my exaggeration, I think it would have made for a slightly better story.

Dinner was at the busy underground joint called El Fogata Grill. It was raining when we arrived, but of all the peculiar luck, we were able to park maybe three doors down from the entrance to this restaurant right in the old city center of Santa Fe, believe it or not. Our food was nothing to brag about; then again, that might have to do with what it was competing with our meal from earlier in the day.

International Folk Art and Meow Wolf

I don’t believe I’ve ever shared so many photos featuring Caroline in a single blog post; I’ve counted 16 of them below. Having stayed in Gallup, New Mexico, last night, we had a three-hour trek northeast to Santa Fe before today’s main event got underway. This random stop on the Laguna Reservation was used to break the fast and slake our growing hunger, and so it was, right here next to a sign warning us not to trespass, that we took our first meal of the day. Not another minute was wasted as we had important stuff ahead.

Parking ambiguities out of the way (which included driving 15 minutes away from Museum Hill, where the International Folk Art Market was being held after a two-year hiatus following COVID), we were on a bus heading right back to the event up on Museum Hill in Santa Fe, New Mexico. No exaggeration; I don’t believe we were here at IFAM more than five minutes before Caroline fell in love with this piece from Academia De Rebozo Mexiquense out of Tenancingo, Mexico. What appears to be a shawl is actually a rebozo and was designed by Carlos Amador Lopez Bringas, the gentleman on Caroline’s right who is also the owner of the company.

Next up was a rather pricey item Caroline felt heaps of guilt purchasing, but with only four bags at the market, it felt like this one might not last long. While she’s flat out in love with her current purse from CTTC, the Peruvian Textile Center in Cusco co-founded by Nilda Callañaupa Álvarez (more about her shortly), I felt like this one complimented Caroline’s current wardrobe and looked like nothing I’ve ever seen in Arizona. With a quick swipe of the card for nearly $500, my wife was going home with a handmade purse from the collective of craftspeople under the guidance of Gulnora Odilova from Shakhrisabz, located in southern Uzbekistan. The young lady posing with Caroline is Sugdiyona Omonova.

Indigo might have been Caroline’s middle name in a former life because she certainly has something for this deep blue hue. I’ve never seen her able to pass clothes dyed using this plant that apparently was first used about 6,000 years ago in Huaca Prieta, Peru. Standing next to Caroline and her new blouse is Aïssata Namoko from Mali. She is the soul behind Coopérative Djiguiyaso, offering textiles inspired by ancient Dogon tie-dye patterns from her home country.

Sadly, we are rushing through here as we purchased a pass that is for a timed entry lasting but three hours. The pass doesn’t expire per se, with authorities seeking to remove us from the grounds, but we are also trying to be considerate of the conditions that were set in order for this year’s IFAM to take place. Back when I made the reservations, I bought entry for both Friday and Saturday in case our few hours here on Friday were not enough. So, on one hand, as we fly through, we are content that tomorrow, we can return bright and early.

Of course, our return must be premised on the idea that we’ll still have money to buy other things, but at least for now, the frenzy has subsided. As first-time visitors, we had no real idea of what to expect, and the conditions of our entry were not encouraging to make a day of the festivities. Should we ever return, we’ll know better. What I’m referring to are the relatively poor food options that have a feeling of being from the county fair, meh. There were a couple of vendors with ethnic offerings, but instead of best representing the diversity of craftspeople on hand for authenticity, it felt to me as though things were aimed at a bunch of boring, somewhat wealthy old people who lack a certain something for culinary experimentation.

There was also a stage featuring live performances, but we didn’t check the schedule or give it a second glance as we had 164 vendors to familiarize ourselves with. And if we thought we’d just glide by some, people like Evah Mudenda of Ilala Palm Baskets from Zimbabwe dragged us in and wanted to show us her wares. Again and tragically, we didn’t feel comfortable stopping everywhere due to this time-restricted visit. Ultimately, we did learn that those restrictions would in no way be enforced, but leaving Phoenix with these ideas, we’d made plans for a timed entry for a different event this afternoon that I’ll be sharing just below.

Peru seems well represented today; this is the stall of Olinda Silvano Inuma de Arias, who is sharing designs known as Kené, an ancient art representing nature and the living culture of the Shipibo-Konibo people of the lower Amazon.

Caroline’s attention perked right up when she immediately recognized the bag and weaving style seen here; these are the makers of the purse she’s been carrying for years now. As she’s admiring the goods, she proudly pulls her bag forward, and a woman looks at it understanding right away its provenance. Sheepishly, Caroline points out that it needs repairs and that she should have already dealt with it, but the woman tells her to hand it to her, and she’ll repair it right here. A bit embarrassed, reluctant even, Caroline lets it go, and the woman takes off her felt hat to pull a needle from under the brim, just in case something like this should present itself, right? In a minute, the loose threads are sewn back in, and other than needing a good dry-cleaning, Caroline’s hand-woven purse is in better shape than when we arrived.

Caroline is gushing about the work of this collective known as Centro De Textiles Tradicionales Del Cusco of Peru. She’s pawing ponchos, blankets, and various textiles and is obviously so enamored with their work that I know we’ll be leaving with something from these ladies. It seems it’s the poncho, but the design of the blanket is so beautiful, too… But the poncho is so much more practical, so it’s settled, or is it? Go with the first thing that really grabbed you, which was actually a purse, though she didn’t like the zipper, so it was the poncho. After paying for it, I asked the ladies if we could get a photo with them so we could capture the moment and subsequently share these things here on my blog; they obliged us, obviously. As we are saying our goodbyes and thanks, someone else walks up asking for Nilda, the woman with the felt hat that fixed Caroline’s purse was pointed to. Oh yeah, her badge says just that. My wife had an emotional celebrity/mentor moment as she was dumbstruck that it was actually Nilda Callañaupa Álvarez herself whose hands did the work on her bag and is responsible for bringing the women’s work of Peru’s weavers to the attention of the world.

And with that, it was time for us to catch the shuttle back to our car so we could make our next appointment. Good thing we’ll be back tomorrow at 9:00 as this was certainly far too rushed. I should mention that there are four individual museums here that will all have to wait for a subsequent visit for us to spend time in.

Meow, is anyone home here at this bowling alley turned something altogether different?

We have entered the peculiar world of the Meow Wolf, knowing nearly nothing of what to expect for our $45-per-person price of admission. I’ve heard great word-of-mouth reports and wild enthusiasm from those who know of it; even Caroline’s boss highly recommended it, but come on $45? This better be great.

While this wasn’t for me, Caroline jumped right in, donning the protective gloves to hunt through these uranium glass pellets, looking for a specific one that is supposed to be glowing at 553 nanometers and that, if found, can be used to open a secret passage but you only have one chance. Sadly, her myopia didn’t allow her to pick the right one, even with my loud encouragement telling her exactly where it was. The time limit is in place so players don’t suffer from radiation burns.

This fossil mammoth skull was found in the Ural Mountains near Mount Narodnaya in the Khanty–Mansi Autonomous Okrug of Tyumen Oblast, Russia, only 0.5 km to the east of the border of the Komi Republic. During the Soviet era, scientists discovered that the extinct ice-age herbivores of the area had been eating grasses that only grew over deposits of uranium, which was how they discovered the material Russia was to use in the nuclear weapons. This rare luminous fossil, now part of Meow Wolf, is of significance for solving the puzzle that has been wittily crafted here.

How is anyone supposed to figure these things out? The value of the Scrabble letters is 40; when you hold up four fingers on your left hand and make a zero with your right in front of the gray camera, the flash will blink a Morse code message that you need to get to the next clue. Seriously, Meow Wolf?

Obviously, we figured it out because Caroline’s sitting on this bench.

We interviewed nearly a dozen people passing by here trying to figure out how to swing from one of the vines to a balcony that will appear once enough weight is hanging from the vine, but I’m 59 years old and not sure I have the upper body strength to attempt Tarzan moves without a safety net so we skipped this part.

Damnit, Caroline, you’ll get E. coli poisoning or COVID trying this chicken that’s been sitting there for how long and touched or licked by how many others before you?

We stood here for close to 45 minutes while the acid had us peaking, and the entire scene was a dripping puddle of multi-colored flowing lines and throbbing fluorescence.

Be sure you know what you’re doing because once you’ve entered one door, the dimension on the other side may not allow you to pass through from whence you came; we learned this the hard way. Beware the camper.

I told you, portals don’t always go well.

I can’t tell you with any certainty that the telepathic intrusion I believe was real actually came from this rat that told me that this construct right here is the brain and utility that operates this entire facility and that with this knowledge I was given means that the co-founder of Meow Wolf Matt King was going to have to die the following day. Sure enough, Mr. King passed away on July 9th, the day after our visit; he was only 37 years old.

While I was mind-melding with a rat, Caroline claims she emerged from this lavender creature that belched her out like a whale spitting out kayakers. As she tells it, after walking through the camper, her path took her into the entrails of a moist tunnel of peculiar humming and singing that appeared to emanate from a rodent-like thing until she found herself here hugging this frog thing or whatever it was.

In the viewfinder of our Instamatic camera, we were black and white, and the background was colorful. This place is working on some kind of magic level that is nothing short of baffling.

That thing could beg all it wanted to; we were not going to crawl into its hole.

The payoff for enduring the blistering hot rays was that by waving your hands and arms; you were able to play this ethereal music. Maybe they should warn visitors not to try playing this invisible instrument with their eyes before they enter.

By now, we are growing bored; just look at how meaningless this is.

I lied; one cannot be bored after being turned into a blue midget Oompa Loompa. How’d they do that?

No, we won’t enter your holes either.

Did you forget to look in the teapot, the cupboard, or under the table?

Truth.

If you are not precisely 5 foot 6 and 1/4th inches tall (168.275 centimeters), you will not see the optical illusion here. This photo that does not represent what one would see at the right height was only allowed to be shared on the condition that I don’t post the truth.

Lost in the forest of dendrites that press out of the mind of earth, or was this another one of those moments where my camera captured the hallucination brought on by the mushroom/acid cocktail we tossed back an hour ago?

This is a holographic projection sampled using an X-ray technique that allows for the visualization of the inside of your lower intestine, sphincter, and, in this case, Caroline’s collection of hemorrhoids. Yep, that’s what it looks like up my wife’s butt.

Who is laughing now, wife?

It’s not every day one is offered the opportunity to play the ribcage of a glowing monster, but when it does happen, you must be at Meow Wolf.

We’ve entered the teleportation vehicle with its quantum wave flux elliptical centrifuge that will spit us back out into reality as; apparently, we were not tasty enough to forever remain in the belly of this former bowling alley. Fine, we certainly got our $45 of value and are ready for some fresh air and maybe food.

This, unfortunately, placed sign might be good for traffic, but the sense of admonishment it shouts at us not to enter Cafe Pasqual’s New Mexican restaurant is going to have to be ignored. Our reservation at the community table was for the second they opened. We’ve lost track of how many visits we’ve made to this Santa Fe landmark, and once again, we’ll leave satisfied.

Did we get stuffed? Is the Pope Catholic? Does he shit in the woods? Only if he’s hanging out at Meow Wolf I suppose, though who really knows? Anyway, I’m not here to talk about the bowel movements of the holy pontiff; we are out for a walk under the setting sun, trying to work off some of the gorging we inadvertently did.

Oh, look, pretty flowers.

Santa Fe is nothing if not a city of art. We are in front of Keen Contemporary, where our friend Dion Terry has pieces on display and for sale. Unfortunately, they were closed during our visit, but at least we could spot one of his works there just right of center, the bird in a white frame.

Why isn’t this stuff in Meow Wolf?

Art would be the only reason Caroline and I should have purchased a large house, so we could fill every corner with groovy things that would make us smile as we discovered other things in corners we’d forgotten we bought.

Does this look like something people who stay at Motel 6 would buy? Well, we are staying over at that $70-a-night place, and I swear that if this giant snail fit in our apartment, we’d so take it home with us, price be damned.

Another Day in the Wasatch Mountains

The air up here in the Wasatch Mountain Range is crisp and clear, making it a perfect place for hot-air ballooners looking for an exciting way to see the surrounding landscape. Sure, a part of us would like to gain that perspective of floating over the countryside, but the uncertainty of how our fear of heights will handle this situation allows our curiosity to back away from feeling the need to do all things just because we could. Our terrestrial viewpoint isn’t a bad one either, after all, we are offered countless opportunities to witness an infinity of sights and experiences such as this one upon walking out the door of our motel.

This morning, we are heading up through the town of Midway on Pine Canyon Drive, a bit of a nail-biter with very few opportunities to pull over on the narrow road full of hairpin turns. During winter, this road is closed, and it’s obvious why. That’s Midway in the distance on the valley floor, and to the far left, you can spy a corner of Heber City. At some point, just before our trailhead, we merged onto Guardsman Pass Road, and shortly after, we reached our parking area.

Good thing we showed up early as there were already 20 cars parked in the large dirt lot, but by the time we’d come off our hike, the area was full, and people were parking a quarter mile away in an overflow area on a sketchy steep side driveway, while others who hadn’t heeded the signs that there was NO parking along the road were getting ticketed or maybe on their way to being towed. By the time we were finished with our walk, we only wanted some food and to rest our tired feet. Enough of that; time to get on down the Bloods Lake Trail before continuing on to Lackawaxen Lake.

A small detail to note: we parked in the shadow of Jupiter Peak, which stands just below 10,000 feet, and our hike will take us over towards Clayton Peak, towering at 10,689 feet (3,258 meters). The trail itself is supposed to be just over 5 miles with an elevation gain of 1,118 feet (310 meters), but considering that we took an alternative trail back to the car, we had more gain than that and, of course, the descent. And while this was our major activity of the day, somehow, we amassed over 8 miles of walking (13km).

As you’ve seen by now, the forested trail is beautiful and in keeping with the theme established a couple of days ago at Cedar Breaks National Monument: we are here during the season of wildflowers. These particular yellow flowers appear to be part of the packera genus of plants and are commonly known as golden ragwort.

Switchbacks at this elevation are never really fun for those of us who live in lower climes, but the excitement of being in such an intriguingly beautiful location and our insatiable desire to experience more move us forward, even if we have to take frequent breaks to catch our breath.

For our efforts and treasure offered to the gods of capitalism, we are afforded payoffs like this. At this point, we are little more than a mile up the trail, and this is also the place most hikers park themselves if they are able to endure the mosquitoes. We’ll only be here momentarily as Lackawaxen Lake is still another mile and a half away, and we have about 32 miles (563km) of driving ahead of us today before reaching the town of Blanding, Utah, where we’ll have an overnight.

If we didn’t live an 11-hour drive away from here, we’d certainly make the effort to visit more often. As for flying up to Salt Lake City and grabbing a rental car, that would add no less than $600 to the cost of the weekend. When using our own car, we spent about $140 in gas to be here, and that’s for the roundtrip.

That’s Clayton Peak up there, and it’s just below it down in the treeline where we’ll find our next lake and even more mosquitoes.

Some small rocks to walk over before we reached some serious boulders that required negotiating, along with a bit of snow further along the trail just before arriving at the lake. Regarding the jagged boulder field, a couple of times, I found my way through on my butt, as standing high above the gaps was triggering my anxiety.

But we made it to Lackawaxen Lake, where we lingered for two, maybe three minutes before running away with a cloud of angry, hungry mosquitoes on our tail.

My stoic, resilient, hard-ass wife is not one to let some pesky mosquitoes interfere with her joy, so she just keeps on going while ignoring the bloodsuckers drinking from her bare legs so they can make baby mosquitoes. I, on the other hand, shoo them away, swat them, nearly panic when they approach my ears, ask Caroline if she sees any of them on my shirt, and then whine that we don’t have a gallon of Deet/bug spray with us, hell that we don’t even have the tiniest bottle with us. We are at the mercy of mosquitoes, but we have the option to leave while they must live and die here.

While my eyes luxuriated in the spectacular beauty of the meadow, and I considered what I might write next, I was still thinking of mosquitoes and my snarky comment that we have the option to leave while they must remain. This is where they’ll live and likely die and while some mosquitoes can fly up to 10 miles, I’m guessing that most live near a good water source and a place they can easily find food. Food, that’s what we are to the females, this much I knew; what I didn’t know is that the males feed on nectar but only for a brief ten days as they flash into existence and die rapidly, after only ten days! In comparison, female mosquitoes enjoy a much longer life that, on average, is estimated at up to 45 days, while other sources say it is closer to only two weeks. I also learned about diapause, which is the condition when insects effectively enter a kind of hibernation state due to conditions unfavorable for their species, such as mosquitos here in these mountains when winter sets in.

As I was looking inward to find something sweet to write about these two sacrificial blood banks that the mosquitoes zeroed in on every time we took the slightest pause, I had to chuckle to myself as I somewhat maliciously considered that many people in society are frozen in diapause waiting for optimal conditions for them to emerge from stasis and start living lives in the great happiness of optimism instead of their futile non-existence under the rock of despair. Long live the smile of knowing you are alive and have options.

Today was our day to gaze upon this scene for the first time in our lives, and while we may never have the good fortune to ever look at it again, we’ve been here, even if only for a moment. A thousand years from now, this view might not have changed much at all, but the memory of us or specifics of our existence will be long gone as we’ll have been dead for more than 950 years by then. It’s all temporary and virtually impossible to see but a tiny fraction of the space rock we live on for such a very brief time. In some way, we are all like male mosquitos existing for but ten days where everything we will ever know and see must be had in those meager 240 hours. Every second counts, my fellow humans, or are you really content with your mosquito-like existence? On second thought, I should consider that those I’d like to reach might never read something about someone else’s adventures and thoughts as they go about a life of profound isolation. All the same, I’ll just leave this right here.

Wasatch penstemon flowers.

More Indian paintbrush.

Bring them all together, and voila! a beautiful little patch of wildflowers.

The horror of horrors was our drive into Park City, which is a bastion of self-important asshole drivers high on their wealth and oblivious to civility. I will never again make the mistake of passing through this corner of America, but the view from above this wealthy enclave (towards the right and out of view) is a spectacular one.

We are on Utah State Road 35, driving southeast, preferring to take the scenic route instead of the faster highway. Tomorrow being the 4th of July, this flag-lined stretch of road feels like one of the most honest celebrations of the big day.

Freshly shorn sheep free-ranging next to the road is not something one sees every day, so we had to turn around, pull over, and hang out with all the sheepies and their lambs.

I believe this to be the last photo I shot on this stretch of road before transitioning to the 191 in Duchesne.

How long should it take to drive to where we are going today? Just as long as it takes, considering that we have to stop for a dozen sights along the way, such as these elegant horses.

It’s the details between the other details that paint the bigger picture of what was what when we were out somewhere, seeing the things that became memories that must fade with the passage of days.

I must have taken dozens of photos waiting to capture the right one of this gas flare and this fire unicorn certainly qualifies as perfect in my book of stumbling into the coincidental.

We are somewhere between Duchesne and Helper, Utah, at this time, and signs of people living out this way are few. What is here is a lot of oil and gas pumping. We were also offered a lesson in stopping in the middle of the street for a photo when thinking there was nobody behind us; I was about to step out of our car for a photo when I heard the roar of a giant diesel engine and then caught sight of a large oil tanker speeding straight at us. I threw the car back into gear and hit the gas as hard as I could so the guy fast approaching didn’t have to slam on his brakes to avoid rolling over us and snuffing our lives out of existence.

Beauty is found in the fluid and infinite state of things; we sense it in the clouds, layers of stone, patterns of where trees grow, the song of birds, music, or the sound of flowing water. We are always passing through sensuality and the passions of nature but are not always tuned to understanding the equation to which we are intrinsically linked. Every time we venture into these unknown ramparts and bucolic scenes, we are enmeshing ourselves in the greater tapestry of life as humans have come to know it. Expressing this relationship in words, images, music, or poetry is our primal language that transcends the work/enslavement structures distilled from others who desire to use human capital for their own means. To be out, exploring, observant, and in delight is to be free. The amazement of opportunity is where freedom is most easily found.

Somewhere near Castle Gate seems appropriately named to me.

While we can’t always avoid major highways, we try not to miss the few views worth capturing, even if it means rolling down the window, having Caroline take the wheel, and me shooting the photo while driving at 80 mph. Yes, that is exactly how this photo was captured.

Arches National Park and Moab, Utah, are out there over the horizon.

No time for crowded tourist destinations this late in the day as we still have 75 miles ahead of us.

Okay, just a quick stop at Wilson Arch.

We’d better stop for this, too, as maybe this will be the best photo we are afforded for sunset.

But then we saw the sun hiding just behind a sandstone bluff, sending out god rays and some golden glow, letting me frame the foreground as a silhouette. This, though, has to be it as it’s getting late, and we still have to check in to our motel further down the road.

I can’t just drive by clouds that are this spectacular, but I swear, this is it.

Okay, so I lied.

Tricked you here; you might have thought this was one more lie regarding stopping on our way to Blanding; well, we were pulling into our motel parking lot at 9:30 and just enchanted that down on the ground, it appeared to be already nighttime, but this one section of the sky was still capturing daylight from the long-set sun that we thought would be impossible to capture. But it turned out pretty good, or so I thought. So this is the last of the 37 images that accompany our day that started high in the mountains and followed us down to canyon lands in the southeast of Utah.

Exploring the Wasatch Mountains

That’s Utah’s famous Mount Timpanogos, the second-highest mountain in the Wasatch Range that’s part of the Uinta-Wasatch-Cache National Forest. (Yesterday, we were seeing its other side.) This is the backdrop of Heber City, where we are staying since we are relegated to the poor person’s enclave of mere millionaires instead of the far greater (billionaires’) village of neighboring Park City (said with incredible reverence).

Just north at the fork in the road, you’ll start heading up towards Jordanelle Reservoir and the town of Kamas beyond that. We are aiming to get on the Mirror Lake Scenic Highway, a.k.a. Utah State Highway 150, that heads north towards Wyoming, although we are keeping things in Utah today.

That’s the Provo River slicing through the forest and feeding Jordanelle Reservoir that we just passed.

Our path of discovering whatever lies ahead has brought us to the Upper Provo River Falls.

Human banana for scale.

Wouldn’t you just know that I’d be at home writing this when I learned that pine cone buds are fully edible? We don’t miss the opportunity to sniff at Ponderosa pine trees now that we know that they smell of vanilla or caramel, but now I’ll need to know what those pine cones taste like.

Pulling into the area at Washington Lake Campground, where our trailhead is located, might seem to be discouraging as the parking lots were packed, but once out on the trail, other visitors were so well distributed across the vast trail system that we never felt crowded. Though I would like to admonish owners of poorly trained barking dogs as they are the bane of a great experience on trails, and so are the dog poop bags left trailside; why even bag it up?

Things quieted down as we got closer to Crystal Lake.

Mosquitoes! Guess who forgot the bug spray? Well, it wasn’t me, as I easily and rightfully assumed that it was in Mrs. Wise’s backpack of everything.

Why pay for Alltrails if, after choosing your trails, you fail to download the app, load your maps for offline use (there’s no signal on the trail), and neglect even printing them out so you have something to remind you of where precisely the trails of interest are after identifying them while still at home in the days prior to your trip? You do this due to a lack of familiarity with the incredible utility of Alltrails, likely in some part due to cynicism that says, “Everything you pay for on the internet that’s not a physical product is probably some kind of ripoff.” Well, now I know.

A tiger swallowtail butterfly among the dandelions is just one of those embellishments that assure us that we are here on this trail at exactly the right time of year and that no other weekend could have been as perfect.

Lucky for us, at a fork in the trail, a young couple heading to Long Lake had a small map with them. They were certain that their trail was to the left and that our way to Cliff Lake could only be on the right. Along the way, we ran into Boy Scouts who were a bit surprised about the trail they were on as it was unfamiliar to them, but we were able to assure them that this was certainly the way to Crystal Lake and Washington beyond that, so they were relieved and happy heading downhill because the trail that had taken them out to Wall Lake (well beyond our destination) had been a lot more strenuous.

As for hiking up here at 10,100 feet of elevation above sea level (3,078 meters), I felt some very minor lightheadedness and even the occasional ping of a headache, but stopping for a sec and taking a big swallow of water helped me adjust to the altitude and we just kept huffing and puffing along the trail. About this selfie, Caroline asked that I make a better effort to take photos of the two of us as I’ve not posted many selfies in a while. I scrolled back on the blog and saw that it’s true: it’s been since May 26 when I last shared an image of us.

This is the end of the trail as far as our hike is concerned, and from here, we’ll head back to our car and one of those incredible lunches of bologna-and-boiled-egg sandwiches wrapped in lettuce. For those curious, we probably exchanged expressions of love no less than 40 times already today, held hands over a dozen times, stopped for a kiss, and snuggled on the trail more times than what is probably reasonable to normal people. While it’s been said countless times previously here on my blog, we do not, will not, and cannot take any of this for granted. We are well aware of how incredibly fortunate we are to not only explore perfection in delightful places while deeply in love with one another, we have the health, means, and desire to do these things.

We just had to pull over here on Utah Highway 150 at the Bald Mountain Scenic Overlook because, well, just look.

By the way, this is the namesake of this pullout and overlook.

That’s Moosehorn Lake out there, while the tallest peak towards the right is Mount Agassiz, standing at 12,433 feet tall (3,790 meters). Looking again at the Alltrails website, it’s surreal how many trails are spread out across the Uinta-Wasatch-Cache National Forest. Somewhere along the way, we caught someone who told us that they were still having snow flurries up here during the past couple of weeks, so the time of year we can plan for a return will likely be limited to July 1st through early September, but I do hope that maybe in 2023 we’ll make the effort to possibly take some longer hikes and maybe even some camping in the backcountry. Just as I finish typing that, I’m thinking, hey, what about those mosquitoes, Mr. Ambitious?

We were driving north without a plan. Maybe we’d make it to Wyoming, but we needn’t do that; we are not out here collecting trophies. A dirt road directing us to Christmas Meadow and the Stillwater Trail, which is part of another trail leading to Ostler Lake, is out here, so we go.

We are excited to make this the second hike of the day; it’s beautiful.

Christmas Meadow looking out at Ostler Peak at 12,718 feet!

Frost Aster flowers and yes, they are edible while the leaves can be used to make tea.

We couldn’t ask for better conditions for a hike. The trail is a long one, but we’ll just go as far as we’re comfortable before turning around.

Not 10 minutes later, we hear thunder in the distance, and some dark clouds are coming over the nearby mountains. Then, just 10 minutes after that, we run into this obstacle, hardly insurmountable, but a light sprinkling of rain is starting to fall so we turn around.

After a short nap for me, while the rain passed, we decided to throw caution to the wind and head out on the Ruth Lake Trail for a quick 2-mile hike.

Hayden Peak with the threatening weather still looming on the horizon.

Our timing couldn’t have been any better as blue skies started reappearing. Why we hadn’t considered the chance of wet weather during any of our previous trips this year is beyond my imagination. Not once have we brought umbrellas or our rain jackets on any of our excursions out of Phoenix this year. We obviously have room in the car to simply keep them in the back, but I guess my eternal optimism that the sun will always be shining on us lets me be careless regarding threats of poor weather.

Rocks, mountains, grass, trees, birds, clouds, love, friends, and happiness were all on hand to create a scene that likely holds a lot more intrinsic value to the two people that were on hand at this moment so the photo would forever be embued with qualities that transcend what is actually seen by others.

Nature legitimizes existence; it is the fabric from which we have emerged and from which modern consumer society has tried to alienate us. When we gaze into nature on a beautiful day our sense of self somehow grows larger as though we were blooming like a flower. How lucky are those of us able to plant ourselves in such places and bask in the sun.

Like this nameless still pond reflecting the world around it, what will you reflect of the world around you? Maybe if you live in the awareness of turmoil and you are surrounding yourself with the chaos of uncertainty and fear, your reflection of that universe will let others know that you are not at peace and that a tempest is raging within.

Again, the parking area was full to capacity, and yet, as is easily seen in these images, we appeared to be out here alone. Maybe instead of seeing the potential for a crowded trail due to the parking situation, I would be better served by getting it in my head that my perceptions heavily influence how my reality is going to play out.

Not just this photo but the one above too is of Ruth Lake that we’ve obviously reached.

All of this was well worth the price of admission, which turned out to be what it always is: you must get yourself out here, make the investment in paying for gas, food, and lodging, and then you’ll be here too, and the better for it.

Indian Paint Brush colors the landscape from here to Alaska, or at least this has been our experience.

We are circumnavigating the lake with increasingly sore feet, and while we grow tired, we are not ready to give up on these moments of bliss.

We were just shy of covering 10 miles (almost 16 km) today up here at an elevation of over 10,000 feet (3,000 meters), and at the end of it, after so much strenuous hiking, I found that my chest hurt. I can only attribute this to the increased effort required to oxygenate my blood at this elevation and my lungs working overtime. Considering the alternative is too scary a thought, maybe it’s a good thing I’m visiting a cardiologist at the end of July. The pain persisted through the night but never gave me real concern as the discomfort seemed localized in my sternum where the ribs attach to it which would make sense that it was nothing more than the extra exertion I needed today.

Sunset would be experienced by others; we were too worn down to care a lick about finding a spectacular location to capture our setting sun; all we wanted was to return to our room and pretend it wasn’t so damned light out at 7:30 at night. In its stead, I present you with the newest addition to my collection of handmade socks. This pair arrives once again from the loving hands of Caroline using yarn from Seaside Yarn & Fiber we purchased on a previous trip up on the Oregon coast.

Once back in the car, we decided to celebrate our grand day out with dinner in a restaurant. Online resources pointed us to a fancy-looking restaurant with good reviews, but their parking lot was deserted – a bad sign on a Friday. Luckily, on our way in, we passed a couple on the way out and, uncharacteristically, asked them for their opinion. We soon found out they thought the place was mediocre and overpriced and instead told us to try the Mirror Lake Diner in Kamas. The diner was just down the street and busy – a good sign! Our dinner was delicious and the perfect end to the day.

The Fifth Element – 25th Anniversary Showing

Caroline Wise, Tommy "Tiny" Lister, and John Wise at Disneyland in Anaheim, California

This afternoon Caroline and I went to the movies to watch the 25th-anniversary screening of The Fifth Element with Bruce Willis, Milla Jovovich, Gary Oldman, and Tiny Lister. Back in 2009, we were visiting Disneyland, and sitting on a wall waiting for his family to emerge from the same bathroom Caroline was in, was this guy, Tiny Lister. You may not know, it but he played President Lindberg in The Fifth Element. I knew it as though we’d watched the film a dozen years before, it was an iconic movie in our lives and much of the dialog and soundtrack got stuck in our heads.

So, did it hold up? Nearly 25 years later and we are still in love with The Fifth Element. Everything that bothered us back then still bothers us today but on the whole, it’s just a great film.