Solo Across America – Day 6

Courthouse in Pontiac, Illinois on the famous Old Route 66

I pulled into Pontiac, Illinois, last night on the edge of town, as that’s where the cheaper hotels typically are located, right? Who knew I was in such a beautiful little town on the famous Old Route 66 – the Mother Road? The fog I woke to this morning was thick; you choose the saying that works for you to describe how heavy it was. After breakfast at a dingy place next to the road (not in this downtown area), I was on my way and experiencing corn in a new way: corn in the fog. Who knew that corn under these conditions would still look like corn? I was expecting marigolds. There was one point in my early morning corn delirium where, in the distance, I thought I could make out the Statue of Liberty, which had me in disbelief that it was corn and soybeans all the way between here and there.

Flowers on Highway 116 in Illinois

When I left Arizona, my criterion was to avoid larger roads; there was no intention or fixed ideas for finding amazing natural sights or historical areas, only the hope of being surprised by what I found on the small roads of America. Little did I know that I was entering a path of corn and soy. There are no regrets because I’ve gotten exactly what I bargained for: a trip across the country to see what I could see outside of expectation, come what would. Driving on freeways, I would have never left the pace of the big city, but out here, I’m witnessing the speed of the rural Midwest, which appears to be moving at about the same pace that flowers and corn grow.

Iroquois River near L'Erable, Illinois on Highway 52

I was on Highway 52 near L’Erable, Illinois, when I passed the Iroquois River.

Highway 52 in Illinois

The trees are changing the farther I go east, though much more corn would lie ahead.

Sheldon, Illinois

Passed a series of small towns: first up was Donovan, Illinois, with a population of 300. This being a presidential election season, you can rest assured that there is signage posted even in the smallest towns that love blending god and politics – we’ll leave it at that. Next up was Iroquois, the self-professed Town of Bunkum (nonsense). I’m here passing through Sheldon because in spite of my instructions to Google to avoid highways Google doesn’t realize that this includes four-lane divided highways that look a lot like freeways. So, I find country roads going in my general direction, adding 20 minutes here, 14 minutes there, and pretty soon, I’m able to add extra hours to my driving day due to some wild zig-zagging through farmland.

Indiana State Line on Highway 18

You see that road? It’s a quiet two-lane affair with soybeans growing over there; the corn is behind me. This is the Indiana State Line on State Route 18, middle of nowhere.

Corn on State Road 18 in Indiana

The promised corn.

State Road 18 in Indiana

Tree densities I’ve not seen in days; welcome to a changing landscape.

First fall colors on State Road 18 in Indiana

Oh, is that the first sign of fall colors starting to emerge or is it Homer Simpson merging into the trees?

Tippecanoe River at State Route 18 near Springboro, Indiana

I’m crossing over the shallow Tippecanoe River, still on State Route 18, near Springboro, Indiana.

Train Crossing on Country Road N 525 W near Delphi, Indiana

I passed through a beautiful small town called Delphi, which tells visitors that it played an important role in the Wabash and Erie Canal system that connected the waterways of Indiana with the Ohio River and the Great Lakes. I went looking for further information about that while writing this post, but I also came across this tidbit that most recently put Delphi, Indiana, on the map: it’s home of slain teens Abigail Williams and Liberty German whose murder case went unsolved for six years, likely a grisly affair.

Leaving town, I had no choice but to turn onto Highway 25, a divided highway. Nope, I wouldn’t have any of that, and within a mile, I turned onto State Route 218, adding 25 minutes to my drive time. I didn’t get far before I needed to turn left on County Road 525 W, but I missed it. I quickly turned around and found myself on an even smaller road. Noooo! A clever ploy by Google to get me back to Highway 25, the faster route. Damn it, Google, I’m not looking for fast, I want the opposite! While I was here, I thought this place amongst the corn was the perfect place for lunch. There I was, enjoying my lettuce-wrapped mortadella, when an approaching train whistle alerted me. I could see the crossing a little further up this remote road, so I raced over. The excitement of being out here never ends.

Wabash River near Peru, Indiana

Hardly an hour passes during waking hours that Caroline or I are not reaching out to one another. There are times when she’s busy putting out fires at work, or I don’t have phone signal, but sooner rather than later, a nudge offering a hug or expression of love is shared, keeping us connected during the day. With me now three time zones away, that might get difficult this evening, but the good news is that we are also now merely 48 hours from seeing each other again.

Amish couple in Monroe, Indiana

This Amish couple should be Caroline and me, sitting next to each other, moving at the speed a horse can pull us, my beard not gray yet, and Caroline rocking a bonnet. We’d ride our buggy into the sunset and sleep among the corn because life is an adventure, and love is grand.

Corn on State Route 124 in Indiana approaching Ohio

While I was in Monroe, Indiana, taking photos of Amish people who naturally don’t like being photographed, there was a sign nearby, the real reason I stopped, that showed the current price of soybeans and corn. I don’t know if this is a buying or selling price, but here you go: Soybeans are $9.63 per bushel. A bushel of beans weighs 60 pounds (27 kilos), and a bushel of corn weighing 35 pounds (16 kilos) goes for $3.36. Now consider that, on average, about 200 bushels of corn are produced on an acre of land. The ten states of the Great Plains and the Midwest that grow corn have about 65-80 million acres under cultivation, which include about 110,000 square miles of corn. Germany, in comparison, is about 137,000 square miles in size.

Ohio State Line in Willshire, Ohio on Highway 124

Welcome to Ohio on State Route 81 in the town of Willshire.

Courthouse in Van Wert, Ohio

I’ve joined the Lincoln Highway in Van Wert, Ohio; this is the Van Wert courthouse.

Miami & Erie Canal in Delphos, Ohio

In Delphos, Ohio, you can find remnants of the Miami & Erie Canal.

Bethel Church of Christ in Ada, Ohio

One is never far from the house of God when in America. This one is the Bethel Church of Christ in Ada, Ohio.

Courthouse in Upper Sandusky, Ohio

This concludes our travel day, not with another photo of corn but a spectacular bit of architecture in the Upper Sandusky, Ohio, courthouse. I learned at dinner that it was featured in the movie Shawshank Redemption. Tomorrow, I’ll pass through Mansfield, Ohio, where a prison used in that film can be found.

Solo Across America – Day 5

Sunrise east of Osceola, Iowa

I mull things a lot, and anyone who might have read one of these posts can probably attest to the veracity of that self-aware claim. What I went to sleep with last night and what I’m carrying into this morning is what a handful of people shared with me before my road trip, either questioning my plans or stating that it’s boring out here. For me, this implies myopia on their part and that they suffer from a malady that arises from the conditioning of watching television: an exciting life only happens in far away places. Only getting away to an “amazing” place can wrench them from boredom. They don’t understand that the people living and working in their routines in amazing places find those places boring, too. Often, people won’t see how boring their vacation destination is to the locals because they typically visit with others set on breaking out of routines and are busy celebrating this new experience. The people serving them are just doing their normal boring job, looking to go on vacation somewhere fun so they can escape the drudgery of where they live.

Wetlands near Lake Morris in Chariton, Iowa

It’s not a place that’s boring; it’s the person that’s boring. When we are unable to adequately intellectually entertain and educate ourselves, we probably end up watching TV or streaming videos that persuade us that we are witnessing a truly exciting place, and “Don’t you wish you were here?” is being pressed upon the viewer. After the constant bombardment of people whose lives have drifted into deep boredom, while somewhat true if stagnation has taken over one’s routine, travel will only work to break them out of that for a few moments before thrusting them right back into boredom.

Hay on US Route 34 in Iowa

The onus of what we do daily to escape the treadmill is on us: not TV, not video games, not government, not our family, not our jobs. It’s in our head, our deeper curiosity that might be dormant or lying fallow. Passivity regarding where we are and how we travel in our imagination when we are unable to propel ourselves 1,000 miles away to that next exotic, exciting, fun-filled, alcohol-fueled romp in Vegas, Paris, New York, or Hawaii is where we need to start to combat boredom. Boredom is in your imagination, not in a place.

Welcome Home Soldier Monument in Albia, Iowa

Caroline told me that the Welcome Home Soldier Monument was ahead on my drive this morning; I was expecting nothing more than a placard. Instead, I found an incredible labor of love and met the man responsible for this Washington D.C. level of quality monument. Jim Keller, working with volunteers and donations, has built a replica of the United States Marine Corps War Memorial, also known as the Iwo Jima Memorial, planted 100 U.S. flags, built memorials to all branches of the military, and installed a statue of a Civil War soldier who plays reverie and taps in the morning and the afternoon.

I was surprisingly touched by this massive eight-acre monument offering gratitude for American soldiers. Maybe because I’m growing older, I better understand what we contribute, volunteering to serve and protect ideas and a framework guiding our country through good and bad times. No matter the alleged ulterior purposes of business and government, the soldier is there to carry out an objective they’ve been taught; their job is to safeguard freedom and the Constitution of the United States. Doing a small part so people can exercise those rights might seem minor and irrelevant at the time, but the older we get, hopefully, we will recognize that those things are not to be taken for granted. I’m reminded of one of the soldier credos I learned, “Mine is not to question why. Mine is to do and die.” My problem was always the questioning part.

The Canteen in Ottumwa, Iowa

Last night at dinner, a server in training, upon hearing about my road trip, told me that if I were passing through Ottumwa around lunchtime, I should stop at the Canteen. They’ve been there forever, and it’s a unique place. Years ago, they refused to move their location, but they are now situated in a tight corner with a parking garage surrounding their building. Aside from that, it looks much the way it must have many, many years ago.

The Canteen in Ottumwa, Iowa

This is what the place is named after, or what they call their sandwich: the canteen. A ground beef sandwich, but not a Sloppy Joe, that you can opt to have with grilled onions, mustard, and pickles (the traditional version); you can also ask for ketchup and cheese. After nearly finishing mine, I heard a customer on the other side of the counter ask for “extra moist,” which means they ladle spoons of rendered beef fat over the burger before topping it with the bun.

Train tracks on Iowa Route 16 near Ashland, Iowa

I was back on Route 34 when it turned into a four-lane highway, which smacked of something akin to a freeway after driving so many days on two-lane roads. A glance at the map and I see that Iowa Route 16 toward Denmark, the city, not the country, would allow me to detour to my encounter with the Mississippi River and my next state line. My internal speed must have slowed considerably because, after a flash of tension on the 34, I felt at ease again. I can only dread what awaits me when I visit the Buffalo, New York, airport in a few days. I mean the crowds and traffic, not the fact that I’m picking up Caroline, so don’t even go there.

American Gothic House in Eldon, Iowa

This is a nice surprise: my route takes me through Eldon, Iowa, home of the house featured in the Grant Wood painting titled American Gothic.

John Wise at the American Gothic House in Eldon, Iowa

If the name of the painting didn’t refresh your memory, I’m guessing that this photo of the three of us will serve as a reminder.

Abandoned house on Iowa Route 16, Iowa

Rethinking, or is it thinking again, of yesterday’s musings on the economics of shifting fortunes of people and towns here in the Great Plains, the Amish jumped to mind. It was probably seeing a couple of Amish buggies along the way that triggered this. People who eschew modernity can harness manual tools and labor to create incredible value. No GPS-guided, fuel-driven tractors, no electricity, and none of the conveniences such as cars or trucks to help them make money, yet they spread out throughout the middle of America buying land, building massive farms with barns, animals, and the requisite tools that allow them to pay their bills and establish tightly knit communities.

Mississippi River seen from Mosquito Park in Burlington, Iowa

The Mississippi River, viewed from Mosquito Park in Burlington, Iowa. On the other side: Illinois, my next destination.

Corn in Illinois on Route 116 near Biggsville

Yeah, more corn.

Route 116 near Stronghurst, Illinois

…and a small, attractive road, detouring away from the busier highway 34 I had to reconnect with to cross the Mississippi.

Soybeans on Route 116 in Illinois

More soybeans because, of course it was going to be that, or corn.

Swing at the intersection of Route 116 and Route 41 in St. Augustine, Illinois

At the crossroads of Highway 41 and the 116 in St. Augustine, Illinois, while I was fighting drowsiness on long, straight, and incredibly smooth farm roads taking me past corn and more corn, I spotted this random swing hanging from a tree. Instantly, I was snapped out of my mindless drift of road hypnosis by the need to take a photo of something – anything – other than corn.

Near Deer Creek, Illinois

I opted to give Peoria, Illinois, a wide berth. With more than 113,000 inhabitants, I felt that all I’d find was a horror of people, angry, on drugs, and racing to get home at the end of the work day. Meanwhile, I’d try to calm down from the minor encounter with traffic of those escaping the city for the distant suburbs by heading through Pekin, a good 10 miles south of Peoria, but that wasn’t good enough. The speed of life came rushing back, and for the first time in a thousand miles, I had to listen to the throaty rumble of a tuned Camaro that IS NOT conducive to enjoying the whispy sounds of corn rustling in the breeze.

Sunset over Pontiac, Illinois

From here forward, I shouldn’t be surprised if I fall further into stress. I crossed the 100th Meridian when I went over the Mississippi. The great majority lives on this side of America, a full two-thirds of our population. Compared to the West, they are packed in like sardines over here. For five days now, I’ve been decompressing and gathering the glow of a corn tan, leaving me uncertain if I’m ready for the maelstrom that arrives with population densities.

Going Home

Caroline Wise and John Wise at the Illinois State Line

This morning, we flew out of Chicago and back into the desert. I really have no impression of the windy city as we only used it to begin and end our vacation. To be frank, I have little interest in big or even medium-sized cities anymore. I haven’t yet tired of looking out over a cornfield and I thrill at peering into the depths of a forest. I’ll get down on my hands and knees to inspect newts, mushrooms, and the minutia of the forest or desert floor, but am rarely impressed with architecture when it comes to blanketing a landscape to obscure where nature had previously been. Sorry, New Yorkers, but a really big park doesn’t represent the wild as I have come to appreciate it. Then again, I have never really seen the wild – only the remnants of what remains.

Covered Bridges and Canoeing

Wilkins Mill Covered Bridge in Bloomingdale, Indiana

Well, here we are, checking out a few of the 98 remaining covered bridges that still exist in Indiana. Only Pennsylvania and Vermont have more of them, while over in Arizona, we are one of the 19 states that have none.

Bowsher Ford Bridge in Kingman, Indiana

Maybe it’s because the architecture of such bridges is no longer in favor that these appear to be so attractive. While I have no idea how often they have to be rebuilt, they do seem to have some durability with the oldest one over in New York dating to 1825.

Mill Creek Covered Bridge in Kingman, Indiana

Hmmm, it would be quite the epic journey to try documenting the more than 850 covered bridges across the country, but then again, that would probably take years to accomplish while neglecting everything else. I guess I can be grateful to see the seven we’ll be visiting or paddling under today.

Rush Creek Covered Bridge in Kingman, Indiana

We are a country where the number of buildings older than 200 years is likely under a few dozen compared to Europe, where there are buildings that have been in continuous use for more than 1,500 years. These random wooden anomalies represent a relatively ancient age here in the United States, though there are people still alive who are older than more than a few of these covered bridges.

Jackson Covered Bridge in Bloomingdale, Indiana

In just a few hours, we’ll be seeing this from a different perspective, as in underneath it when we paddle down Sugar Creek.

Sugar Creek in Bloomingdale, Indiana

With no ceremony, training, or others nearby to learn from, we pushed off in our rented canoe from Turkey Run State Park into Sugar Creek.

Narrows Covered Bridge over Sugar Creek in Bloomingdale, Indiana

Two kayakers quickly followed but were soon well in front of us dawdlers. Nervous caution gave way to an exhilarating wow factor as the slow-moving, shallow creek allowed us to float downstream at our own pace, lingering as we came upon sights such as this.

Caroline Wise on Sugar Creek in Bloomingdale, Indiana

It wasn’t long before shallow became so shallow that our little canoe would get stuck in the sand and gravel creek bed not once or twice but more than a few times. With paddles pushing and our desire not to step out of our canoe for fear of not being able to get back in without tipping it over, we shoved, bounced, and prodded the canoe free and once again were afloat. Until we ran up sideways against some tree limbs.

Sugar Creek in Bloomingdale, Indiana

Funny how slow-moving water picks up speed near rocks and trees. Just before the current promised to roll our canoe, I pushed against a tree and somehow backed us away from the wedge long enough for us to paddle like mad and move around the fallen tree.

Cox Ford Covered Bridge over Sugar Creek in Bloomingdale, Indiana

Of course, it wasn’t long before the next gotcha moment was bound to happen. We were fairly certain that we could go right over the minor blockage of thin tree branches; who knew that as we entered the wishbone, we would be hoisted aloft as though on a car jack stuck dead in the water.

Sugar Creek in Bloomingdale, Indiana

PUSH, Caroline, no push that way; I said, no, the other way, not that right, the other right, see I told you I’d take care of it.

John Wise on Sugar Creek in Bloomingdale, Indiana

Fine, I don’t care if next time you canoe on your own. No, I’m not angry, and I’m not yelling; I was just a bit nervous. Well, we made it without further incident.

Sugar Creek in Bloomingdale, Indiana

Maybe you are looking at this creek and are thinking, John, that looks mighty calm, but what you aren’t seeing are those parts where panic wasn’t going to allow me to photograph my own close encounter with death as I laser-focused on yelling at Caroline to get us out the pickle I couldn’t handle.

Jackson Covered Bridge over Sugar Creek in Bloomingdale, Indiana

Our first canoe trip on Sugar Creek under covered bridges on a beautiful warm fall day – a day to remember. By the way, you might notice that this was one of the bridges we’d seen earlier; it’s the Jackson Covered Bridge, built back in 1861.

Caroline Wise on Sugar Creek in Bloomingdale, Indiana

Phew…she’s still smiling.

Gobbler's Knob in Bloomingdale, Indiana

Of course, we stopped at Gobbler’s Knob for no other reason than the appealing name.

Gobbler's Knob in Bloomingdale, Indiana

Gifts from Gobbler’s Knob. Yep, I just love writing out Gobbler’s Knob.

Sunset in southern Illinois

We are heading back to Chicago, Illinois, as this road trip into the colors of fall is about to end. Tomorrow morning we’ll catch a flight back to Arizona and can say without reservation that this has been an incredible journey every minute we’ve been out here.

Midwest Vacation

Caroline Wise and John Wise at Lake Michigan in northern Illinois

Flew into Chicago today, rented a car, and drove north as fast as we could. The first stop and the official beginning of vacation was right here on Lake Michigan.

Snake in Northern Illinois by Lake Michigan

Dude, we’re from out west where snakes have rattles, letting us know to stay away; your posing is not getting the results you desire. Smile for the camera. [The way I remember it, we actually did hear a rattle, but that must have been all in my head because after researching local snake photos, I came to the conclusion that this little fellow was a fox snake and nonvenomous – Caroline]

Caroline Wise standing in Lake Michigan in northern Illinois

After our lakeside stop that allowed Caroline to dip her feet in the waters of Lake Michigan, we continued north.

Caroline Wise and John Wise entering Wisconsin

Happy faces of happy people entering the state of Wisconsin. Due to this now being a last-minute trip without the typical travel planning, I only just had today’s itinerary figured out in a spreadsheet, and even that was hardly a schedule as much as it was a note for a single destination. Due to my stay in Santa Barbara in September (to help with a family emergency) and the uncertainties surrounding dates there, I hadn’t been able to return to the itinerary, so this will be a relatively spontaneous adventure following the road that takes us forward, but first, we must head for Milwaukee and take a sharp right turn west.

Caroline Wise at Jimmy's Grotto in Waukesha, Wisconsin

Jimmy’s Grotto in Waukesha was on my radar for their famous Ponza Rotta deep-fried pizza. I’d caught wind of this place on some radio show on NPR, I believe, but wherever it was, I heard about the brilliance of deep-frying a pizza; we were here right now for our first encounter. But was it worth it? No question!

Wisconsin

The rest of the day was spent driving through Wisconsin farmland on our way to the Upper Peninsula of Michigan.

Wisconsin

This is just the reason we wanted to be here in this corner of America in late September or early October…we’re joining the herd of leaf peepers.

Wisconsin

Oh yeah.

Wisconsin

Having arrived mid-day in Chicago, we were not going to get far, nor did we want to, as then we’d miss the countryside, so we only went as far as Fond du Lac, Wisconsin, and called it a night.

Mother and Son Going to Buffalo, NY – Day 14

Illinois

Our goal today is to go far. Finding a balance between taking small roads to avoid large cities and their inherent congestion and making quick time seems mostly impossible. We get out of French Lick and head over to Montgomery, Indiana, before stopping for breakfast at a little Amish-influenced place. By setting ourselves in motion, it feels like progress is being made right away. Before we know it we are crossing into Illinois and are almost halfway across the Midwest.

Illinois

U.S. Route 50 takes us straight through farmland, allowing us to travel nearly at the speed of the freeway but without the semi-trucks and endless franchises that define America’s main arterial roads. I prefer to lose 30 miles per hour for the calm tranquility of passing fields of corn that are so close I can reach out and touch them or maybe just stop and photograph a field of it as a reminder that I’ve been here.

Illinois

There’s a lot of corn grown in this state, but by the time we reached Odin, Illinois, where we picked up some fresh tomatoes being sold next to the road, it was time to step south in order to give a wide berth to St. Louis and avoid even a hint of the suburbs. Great, now we have tomatoes, but not a grain of salt. We need a store or a fast-food restaurant.

Illinois

In Pinckneyville, Illinois, we spot a McDonald’s and score a few salt packets so we can start enjoying the tomatoes. A place across the street offering oil changes allows us to have some basic maintenance done on Mom’s van, which has already been driven more than 4,500 miles on this trip. The guy’s hopefully removed some of the ticks out of the car when they vacuumed it. We don’t know for certain that there were any ticks in the car, but Mom was worried after all my stops to take photos.

Illinois

About to leave Modoc, Illinois, across the Mississippi River by a small ferry for $8, heading into Saint Genevieve, Missouri.

Illinois

At 100 degrees on the river with what feels like an equal amount of humidity, we might as well be in the river. Except, the last place I want to be right now while riding a ferry across the mighty Mississippi River is on a capsizing boat taking us to nice dry land on the other side in a different state.

Missouri

Collecting more ticks, so my neurotic mother is more occupied with pestilence instead of food.

Missouri

The torment that must exist in my mom as she vacillates between imagined variants of the plague and the overwhelming desire for calories to regulate her serotonin would push lesser people into therapy. Again, we are at the point where it’s too hot to do anything but seeing the Charleville Vineyard here in Ste. Genevieve, she’s all of a sudden energized into buying more wine. If you’ve been keeping track, you wouldn’t be wrong in assuming we have quite a few cases of wine stowed here in the van.

While you’d never guess it from the picture I captured at a moment with no one else in sight, the Old Brick House was packed, so we went over to the Anvil Restaurant, which was the second recommendation. The Anvil has been open since 1855 and has the best onion rings mom and I have ever had. I had a chicken fried steak that was the daily special, while mom opted for a burger.

Missouri

Looking at the path our road trip took, I’m left wondering years later what exactly was the motivation for the drive south only to turn north again, but that’s what we are doing today instead of holding a steady westerly direction. Here we are on one of those northern legs about to cross the Missouri River.

Missouri

Of course, there’s more corn out here; it’s the Midwest, right?

Missouri

Crossing the Missouri River, we arrive in the unincorporated area known as Dutzow. It’s the Blumenhof Vineyard & Winery that drags us out of the car. Mom purchases even more wine. Further west on the river is the city of Hermann, Missouri. Why are we here? Lunch, shoes, ice cream? Nope, more wine. Back in Dutzow, the proprietor told Mom of the Hermannhof Winery. Mom goes berserk and is about to leave with two full cases. One half a case is for Caroline, but after sampling their sparkling grape juice, we left with a case of it too.

Missouri

Back across the Missouri River on a road that will keep us the closest to the river until we have to turn south again.

Missouri

Our turn south was happening in Jefferson City, Missouri, which also serves as the location to have dinner. We’re not done driving yet, as we are determined to cover more ground today before exhaustion sets in.

Missouri

Highway 54 takes us past the over-commercialized Lake of the Ozarks area, but not before we stop for a Custard at Andy’s in Osage Beach. We make it as far as Weaubleau, Missouri before I’m just too tired to continue on. The Weaubleau Motel offers small cabins for only $40, including tax and cash only. The pillows are sofa pillows, the shower has a sizable colony of spiders in residence, and the place is at least 20 degrees hotter than outside. The last temperature we saw 45 minutes before checking in was 91 degrees; this room is well over 105. The air conditioner makes a valiant attempt to cool things, but after 30 minutes, it’s still ridiculously hot. Only $40, hmmm, maybe not the best bargain, but then again, I was about to pass out on the road.