Commitment to be in Place

Duncan, Arizona

Of course, a day has a beginning, and in this cliche of announcing its arrival to recount what passed in those early moments, I find myself regretting wanting to offer a laundry list of things we did, which ended up being nothing more than taking a walk in the direction of the nearby Gila River. A river that has been flowing heavily, according to our hosts, and that recently flooded this small town of Duncan, Arizona. The same river I wrote of yesterday that I thought we’d find as dry as the environment we left at home.

Giving importance to what we are doing here in Duncan seems noteworthy, although I’m looking at things that those who live here find absolutely normal. I attempt to elevate our own experience of this commonplace stop on the map so that our memories might remain with us and not be immediately lost in the multitude of impressions we take in on a day-to-day basis. This reminds me that I’ve rarely ever traveled across Phoenix with the idea of noting what sights and moments I’d capture as though I were visiting it for the first time, an exercise worthy of consideration.

Near the Gila River in Duncan, Arizona

Along the way, we encountered two guys sharing the same path. They were obviously out here looking for birds, which had me bringing up that we’d just spotted a couple of sandhill cranes, but nothing like what we’d seen earlier this year down by Douglas, Arizona. One of the guys piped up, saying that must have been Whitewater Draw; it sure was. While it took a second for my brain to process things, it dawned on me that if he knew that place, he might know of others, and so before there was much distance placed between us and them, we turned around. Well, I’m happy we did, as this introduced us to Arizona Birding Tours, with Caleb being one of their guides. He recommended that if time allows this weekend, we might want to pay a visit to the nearby Gila Box Riparian National Conservation Area. While writing this, I popped over to the Arizona Birding Tours website and signed up for their newsletter, hoping this seed sprouts and that in the new year, we’ll find ourselves on our first official birding tour.

The Gila River in Duncan, Arizona

Well, well, the Gila River is running high and even has a bit of fast water flowing through it. That the river crested at about 22 feet is evidenced in the tree line where debris collected. This must have been quite the sight. Not watching or paying attention to any local media, we often have no idea what is going on in Arizona, and to be sure, we prefer it that way.

Following our wakeup walk in the brisk air that hovered in the low 40s and included a close encounter with a herding dog ensuring we weren’t interested in his goats, we sauntered back to the oh-so-historic Simpson Hotel for our rendezvous with breakfast and our now firm decision to remain in place while attempting to do as little as possible. While not on the bongos, Clayton did take up the stove to prepare us a home-cooked meal that, as usual, smacked of perfection.

The art of Don Carlos at the Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

From the kitchen, the music of Françaix’s Oboe Concerto titled L’Horloge de Flore: Silène Noctiflore is wafting into the dining room where breakfast was taken, and we are currently contemplating how we’ll implement this strategy of doing things that amount to nothing. There’s little to think about, fleeting ideas to consider writing about, and if I were smarter than I am, I’d know to leave my mouth shut and to take a vow of silence when presented with these opportunities to be somewhere with myself. Instead, I detour into small talk that leaves me uncomfortable with that dreaded sense that coffee-driven conversation was too frantic when what I thought I really wanted was internal quiet. So it goes.

Do not look for a lot of correlation between today’s images and what I write of, though sometimes that will work out. To a large extent, I have more photos of specifics while my writing might be all over the map, which others can attest to as being my norm when it comes to talking.

The Pompeian Bakery at the Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

Sitting in the garden, having pulled up a seat in front of the Pompeian Bakery, I’m surrounded by the insects that obviously saw an explosion in their numbers due to the rains and flooding during the monsoon season. If I were a betting man, I’d wager this swarming horde is at work to drive me away while the warm sun, sound of the fountain, and chirp of crickets beg me to stay put. Mosquitos might prove persuasive enough to send me indoors, but I will not be easily defeated as I’m no village near Naples, nor are the bugs a kind of pyroclastic flow.

The art of Don Carlos at the Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

One of the kittens romps about on the hunt to play with the grasshoppers and little white butterflies, while the older cats cannot be bothered with youth’s antics. The cats move between sun and shade, and the occasional visit for a quick head rub or even snuggly intimacy to let me know they have claws with a need to knead. I can only oblige one or the other for so long before they grow weary of my hand or me of their retractable needles.

The art of Don Carlos at the Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

These moments of romanticized encounters in the garden were short-lived. I can blame it on the offering of coffee and that it might be better enjoyed inside, or I can admit that the sun grew oppressive, the flying insects annoying, and my patience for such things thin. Whine and comfort can exist on the same menu as I try to choose my words, but what of the proverbial substance of thought I could be serving up? Can’t say I know a definitive answer to that as I tune back into the tick-tock of the clock.

The art of Don Carlos at the Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

Here we are in the diorama of our own experience, looking out into a temporary reality while believing we are on yet another weekend trip. One potential alternate scenario is that we are borrowing the environment we’ve traveled to, and from the constructs offered by this place, we are temporarily within a diorama hybridizing our world with that of the Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona. to create a new moment on the stage in the box of our existence. [The Latin quotes in the background are “Odi profanum vulgus et Arceo – I hate the common masses and avoid them” and “Facere quod in se est – Do what lies within you” – Caroline]

The art of Don Carlos at the Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

The pieces of who we are are like the ruins of the architecture that preceded us. We are built from their dust while the words in our heads have spilled off the pages of every book ever written. It’s our life’s work to create new architectures while penning our own novel stories, bringing mythologies and potential meaning to this entity of ours while desiring to understand the absurdity of its presence in the moments it has been granted life.

The art of Don Carlos at the Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

Is that the man Don Carlos behind the pig whose maw holds the glowing orb of time travel? Metaphorically and literally, I would have to say yes, but the sense of the message from the artist is lost as it is not a forthcoming gesture from him to explain anything other than maybe the title of his work. Even armed with that, there is little meaning the artist can begin to convey for the individual experiencing their art as it is from our internal dialogue and personal history that we’ll attack this interpretation of reality.

The art of Don Carlos at the Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

I’ve stood here before, but the circumstances and outcomes were all different. The pieces might be the same, and the setting could be similar, but nothing is as it was. Visiting places existing in art does not benefit from changing seasons, dramatic differences in light, or the immediate weather, but we will experience them differently as our maturity and knowledge evolve. So, like visiting a favorite place over the course of many years, we should be so fortunate to revisit the art we’ve encountered during our lives but do you remember what was where over the course of your travels?

The art of Don Carlos at the Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

From this tiny corner in a larger piece, I’m going with this as a depiction of Saint Thecla when she was visiting the Apostle Paul in prison; yep, that’s what comes to mind.

The art of Don Carlos at the Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

Hidden in the corner of the ruins of Rome sits the abandoned head of cowardly Nero Claudius Caesar Augustus Germanicus. He’s disfigured by the fires that still burn behind him. Don’t let Don Carlos tell you that my interpretations are way off base because my freebasing while writing this shit is all the inspiration I need to see the truth.

Don Carlos' workspace at Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

Such was the great influence of seeing the studio of Francis Bacon that I now desire to find that impression of chaos in the space of any artist’s corner I’m fortunate enough to visit. Looking at stacks of dusty tools, possibly neglected projects or pieces that were at one time intended for something or other and that yet might find their way into a work, draws me in to wonder about meaning and utility. When exploring my own headspace, I don’t have the luxury of physically moving things around. Even if of little value, I can hold a thing in my hand and let it resonate about how it could come into play. At least in the realm of digital arts, I have icons, tabs, and texts that draw me into considering what that thing can offer me; here, in my mind, I’m forced to sift through invisible impressions that might hint at ideas not yet realized.

Don Carlos' workspace at Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

I’m seized by either envy or respect that by reaching out, I could grab a tool that would allow me to share a brushstroke, the beginning of a great visual piece of representation that would allow the observer to snatch a moment from my imagination. Stop a moment, Mr. Wordsmith, this other artist, is likely also stymied at times with the thought that a single brushstroke is but a line that potentially goes nowhere and is no more effective in conveying anything more than my leaving the letter Z here for no real purpose.

Don Carlos' workspace at Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

Is that an urn, a finial, or part of an old baluster? Next to it, a skull and shutters set up a Shakespearean randomness that occupies a shelf in the artist’s studio, while the juxtaposition might even be a contrivance speaking of the spirit of humanity ascending the heights before throwing open the shutters of the mind and imagination to gaze into and upon what it has not yet seen or dreamt.

Cobwebs at Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

Dust and cobwebs are proof that time has passed. They are not inherently dirty as there is no illness or disease that can accumulate or be attributed to such things. Some might argue an allergic sensitivity on behalf of the compulsively clean, who, in my view, are delusional with a propensity for drama and hysterics.

Cobwebs at Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

These relics of the passage of time suggest mystery and the absence of something as though they are filling the void to allow the passerby to think that nothing else is here aside from the echoes of the past. The dust tells us that things are settling, while the cobwebs hint at where spiders dwell, though their dusty condition also offers the clue that their inhabitants have moved on. Maybe we should, too.

Caroline Wise with cat at Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

As I ponder cobwebs and dust, I can easily believe that our plastic trash, like human webs, is gathering the dust of our neglect. Of the trash, we show little concern, but should we encounter the scourge of perceived uncleanliness, we clamber for the outrage befitting such housekeeping (or lack thereof). This begs the question, is Yelp where the Karens and Kens metaphorically glue their hands onto a painting in order to express their outrage while kicking back to watch Rome burn under the plastic facade of fake concern?

There are places that demand certain things from people, such as a museum that invites one to appreciate the art, a visit to the coast on a late fall day suggests a bundled-up walk might be nice, while moments spent in an old cathedral demands silent contemplation. Here at the Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona, we both feel the draw of remaining in place, sitting with the cats, listening to the tick-tock of the wall clock, and experiencing the quiet of everything else.

Old movie theater in Duncan, Arizona closed since 1979

By now, I’ve walked miles in circles that don’t extend very far in any direction, primarily here at the hotel, its garden, the art gallery, and this roofless, defunct old movie theater next door. Should I stop and consider things deeply, I can recognize that much of my trek has been in the created world of artist-in-residence Don Carlos and his dioramas that foster travel through history and literature. These reflections of his musings dare the visitor to find their own interpretation of where they’ve been after going within. For me, I apparently walked endlessly in these miniature settings until, with hunger approaching, we found ourselves on a stroll outward, thus breaking the spell we’d strove for to do as much of nothing as possible.

Duncan, Arizona

There doesn’t seem to be anything else to write about. For one, we are sitting down for dinner at the Ranch House, which is our second visit today. And my writing is ignoring Caroline here on my left. I’ve handed her the two other pages of what I’ve been writing this afternoon so I can write about nothing much at all as we await the delivery of our meals. The situation then begs the question, why don’t we just bring up our phones like normal people so we can avoid conversation? Just as I ask this very question, Caroline, now finished with reading my blathering, brings up her phone and reads about the history of Our Lady of Guadalupe.

Sunset in Duncan, Arizona

Hear our prayers, holy mother of god; we have a hunger for that which nourishes our guts. Like a miracle, our enchiladas materialized right before us. Caroline corrected me on this to inform me that our server, Mackenzie, actually delivered them while I was paying more attention to being in my own world than sharing dinner with my wife.

Amtrak Ahoy – Trip 11

Near Payson, Arizona

It was less than 48 hours ago that I finished writing about our Memorial Day trip and here we are at the cusp of leaving for the next trip. As you can read from the title, this is trip number 11, and while we have ten behind us, Caroline and I are both flummoxed as to why we don’t have a clear sense of that magnitude. It’s been quite a long time since last we traveled so intensely which should be imparting the idea of being overwhelmed or something. Instead, it just feels normal. What can explain this?

This is a serious question. I don’t mean to imply that we somehow take these travels for granted; we are well aware that nothing is due us. Back in 2020, when we all had our plans disrupted, Caroline and I were still able to snag 28 days of travel, 21 of those days between the pandemic shutdown and prior to the availability of the vaccine. While we might have had moments that year of feeling trapped, I’m fairly certain we spent more time on vacation than probably 98% of the American people. Now, here we are in 2022, and we are in no way feeling trapped; we have 41 days of travel already behind us, with more than 60 to come before the new year. This should already hold great significance. Don’t get me wrong, we are utterly and profoundly grateful and excited at the start of all of our travels, even to places like Ajo, Arizona.

So, why isn’t this clobbering our senses? The best answer I can come up with this being in some way normalized is that even on the days and weekends we are not out on an adventure, our days at home are lived so large that they must nearly equate to being in an exotic locale exploring the extraordinary. The novelty that arrives with each day propels us into such memorable moments that the greatest majority of our time is as exciting as landing in Bergamo, Italy, for the first time. After a morning walk that often has us visiting with Lucy the Donkey and watching mockingbirds flutter from their perches, and a drive to work listening to Caroline read books to me (our current title is Two Years Before the Mast, Richard Henry Dana Jr.’s classic 1840 sea journal), followed by everything that comes after these terrific starts to the day, the value of a simple day is exponentiated. Maybe the travel no longer stands so far out because nearly every day has attributes that provide such exceptional quality that we might as well be on a Space-X rocket daily.

Enough of all that for the moment, as we are now only 4 hours away from taking off, and I have things to tend to, such as packing, that need to be done before I pick up Caroline. My 3-hour block of trying to write in between talking while having my first cup of coffee needs to come to an end. Regarding the title of today’s post, our destination is Winslow, Arizona, yep, the same one where people have been known to stand on corners, where tomorrow morning, we’ll be boarding our very first Amtrak train to travel somewhere else. If I share too much right now, I’ll have nothing for tomorrow’s story, and so with that, it’s time for a pause in the first part of this post.

North of Strawberry, Arizona

Our drive north follows much of the same route we traveled just a couple of weeks ago on our way to Holbrook. The road diverges at about the halfway point as we reach Payson, so instead of turning right in the middle of town, we’ll go straight and slightly west before cutting northeast to Winslow. As we left the Phoenix area, the temperature was a mind-numbing 113 degrees (45c). On our way up from the desert, there must have been more than 15 cars sidelined off the road that crumbled under the searing heat.

Approaching the Rim Country, as it’s known, we could see that there was a good chance rain was falling. The Mogollon Rim plateau towers at 7,300 feet over lowly Payson sitting in its shadow at 5,000 feet in elevation. It’s this change in elevation that draws so many visitors from the valley where we live to this corner of Arizona, as it’s considerably cooler up this way.

By the time we’ve passed through Strawberry and are reaching the heights of today’s drive, the rain that always remained ahead of us had dropped the temperature over 50 degrees (29c) to a pleasant 61 Fahrenheit or 16 degrees on the Celsius scale.

Highway 87 going north to Winslow, Arizona

The pine-tree-covered expanse of the Mogollon Rim gives way to the high plateau of the Little Colorado River valley. Out there, way out there, you’ll run into Hopi Lands, but before you get that far, you’ll pass through the Painted Desert, which is not our destination today.

Highway 87 going north to Winslow, Arizona

We are racing the setting sun, hoping to make it to our hotel before dark, but no matter that, there’s always time to stop for a photo of a dramatic sky. Looking west, if we had clear skies, you’d see Mt. Humphreys, which is part of the San Francisco Peaks in the distance, and at the foot of it all lies Flagstaff, Arizona.

La Posada Hotel in Winslow, Arizona

In the nick of time, we reach the historic La Posada Hotel with a glimmer of fading sun still illuminating its roof. The last time we were here, and our first time, was in January of 2020, while there was still snow on the ground. Sadly, we’ll be here less than a dozen hours as we’ll be underway at the break of day tomorrow shortly after 5:00 a.m.

La Posada Hotel in Winslow, Arizona

I don’t think Caroline nor I ever thought we’d stay a second time in this historic bit of Americana that at one point was destined for the wrecking ball.

La Posada Hotel in Winslow, Arizona

As we made our way to our room for the night, we tried to remember which room we stayed in before but couldn’t come up with it. On this visit, we won’t let that go, so I’m noting that this time, we are staying in the Bob Hope room #208 with a small balcony looking to the north. An important note about these rooms, even in summer, they get mighty cold, and the A/C unit is nearly silent, a luxury among many of the places we stay in the desert.

La Posada Hotel in Winslow, Arizona

This must be from lessons learned from excited passengers disembarking the train and entering the hotel from this rear entrance, boisterous in their excitement of arriving in Winslow. Whatever the reason, I think this is an elegant message about decorum when entering a place.

La Posada Hotel in Winslow, Arizona

Before checking out tomorrow, Caroline will bring up the idea that we should come up here for a relaxed weekend of hanging out, knitting, writing, and eating, as we are only 3 hours away from home while simultaneously a world away. With that idea, it would afford us the time to take a tour of the facility to see the small corners we’ve missed while visiting this impressive design borne from the imagination of architect Mary Jane Colter.

La Posada Hotel in Winslow, Arizona

An hour before I took this photo, the dining room was packed. Earlier in the day, I called ahead for a dinner reservation, but everything was spoken for until 7:45, with the kitchen closing at 8:30. We didn’t have long to wait as with all of our stops on the way up, it was well past 6:00 when we finally arrived and all of a sudden 7:45 didn’t seem that late for the last meal of the day. Our server told us of some stuffed squash blossoms; bring ’em was our quick response. This was our first encounter with them, and they made for a perfect appetizer. Maybe it was just us, but tonight’s dinner here at the Turquoise Room seemed a hundred times better than our previous visit.

La Posada Hotel in Winslow, Arizona

There’s not a thing to dislike about the La Posada Hotel, not even the gift shop. Hey, I’m a guy who hates shopping, and gift shops can be the worst when they are stuffed with generic stuff that is “supposed” to be representative of the place we are visiting, but this shop at the hotel really does seem to reflect not only the local history and culture but an attention to detail that lends authenticity (a slippery word I know) to our visit.

At some point after we checked in and after listening to more than a few random conversations, we heard from someone that tonight’s Amtrak was running late and thought nothing of it as it had nothing to do with our train tomorrow morning. Is this foreshadowing? It sure is.