Hawaii Vacation – Day 8 (Kauai)

Maui, Hawaii

Disclaimer: Back in May of 2006, when I started posting about our vacation to the Hawaiian Islands, we were severely limited regarding photos I could share due to bandwidth limitations. Here in 2022, I’m updating these posts using the original image and text I shared, but I’m adding the rest of the photos I would have liked to share if bandwidth and storage had not been issues 16 years ago. 

Take advantage of every possible moment where experience and memories might be found, and with that, we were up, packed, and checked out of our hostel just as the sun was rising. Being in Wailuku and having some hours before our flight, we are driving up the Kahekili Highway

Maui, Hawaii

It turns out that being away from the cities and popular beaches of the Hawaiian islands, total serenity and a peaceful countryside still exists.

Maui, Hawaii

I don’t know how far we traveled on the Kahekili Highway, though by most any measure, is a single-lane road really ever a highway?

Caroline Wise and John Wise flying to Kauai, Hawaii

The flight is under an hour, but for only $29 each as an upgrade price, this might be the cheapest we’ll ever be able to fly first-class, so we took the deal. I hope we look appropriately smug sitting in such grandeur.

Flying to Kauai, Hawaii

Flying over Middle Loch of Oahu, approaching the Pearl Harbor Memorial that will be on our left. Maybe a future visit will bring us to Oahu for a longer visit.

Flying to Kauai, Hawaii

Approaching the Garden Isle of Kauai and the final island, we’ll be visiting during this vacation.

Kauai, Hawaii

The rest of our vacation will be spent here on Kauai, amongst greenery and rainbows.

Kahili Adventist School in Koloa, Kauai, Hawaii

Finding affordable lodging options on these islands wasn’t easy. First, on the Big Island, we stayed in the primitive cabin at Volcanoes National Park, then on Maui, our nights were spent in a hostel; Molokai didn’t offer many options, so the Hotel Molokai was it. Here on Kauai, I’d seen these cabins at Kahili Mountain Park that were part of the Kahili Adventist School. We are not members of the Seventh-day Adventist denomination, but that didn’t stop me from finding an angle in which Caroline and I were allowed to rent one of their cabins for the next three nights.

Kahili Adventist School in Koloa, Kauai, Hawaii

That’s our exquisite cabin under Kahili Mountain, and believe it or not, this was the cheapest option I could find on the island. Hence, I worked hard to get ourselves into this incredible location. On the right of the cabin, there are some light-colored leaves, those are banana leaves and where our outdoor shower is located.

Kahili Adventist School in Koloa, Kauai, Hawaii

I claimed the bed; Caroline will have to make do with the rug next to me or sleep in one of the chairs. Just kidding, there’s a larger bed directly across from this, so I’ll take it, and Caroline can have the child’s bed.

Kahili Adventist School in Koloa, Kauai, Hawaii

Yes, the shower indeed has a door and wall around it, but is otherwise wide open.

Tree Tunnel in Koloa, Kauai, Hawaii

Situated in a cabin we could just stay at the entire time if it weren’t for the fact that we were on Kauai, we were quickly gone driving down a tree tunnel to Koloa on a recommendation.

Poke bowl from Koloa Fish Market on Kauai, Hawaii

That recommendation was for the Koloa Fish Market and specifically the Poke Bento. This little box lunch of raw Ahi tuna sprinkled with a coating of seaweed, sesame seed, and sea salt over a bed of white rice with a thin layer of wasabi cream became an instant favorite and a dish we ate for breakfast the next two days.

Spouting Horn Park in Koloa, Kauai, Hawaii

The appropriately named Spouting Horn Park in Koloa.

Fruit vendor near Koloa, Kauai, Hawaii

These ladies’ fruit stand would prove indispensable to us because not only did they have amazing tropical fruit, but one of the ladies cut up our pineapple for us in the most unique way that allowed it to remain relatively whole but later could be pulled apart and eaten off the skin like corn-on-the-cob.

Kauai, Hawaii

We are gathering a new definition of lush.

Kauai Soto Zen Temple in Hanapepe, Kauai, Hawaii

Kauai Soto Zen Temple in Hanapepe on our way to points north of Waimea.

Caroline Wise at Jo-Jo's Shave Ice in Waimea, Kauai, Hawaii

Jo-Jo’s Shaved Ice was also an instant classic; I had the plain ice with passion fruit, mango, and guava, while Caroline opted for Halo Halo Shave Ice, which is decked out with shredded coconut, coconut gel, ice cream, azuki bean, and mixed fruit all topped with shaved ice and then a layer of haupia cream.

Kauai, Hawaii

We followed the road a little further into Kekaha before deciding to turn around and head to where we were supposed to be going, up the Waimea Canyon Drive.

Near the Nāpali Coast on Kauai, Hawaii

Waimea Canyon from an unnamed lookout.

Near the Nāpali Coast on Kauai, Hawaii

View from the Hohonu Awawa Lookout.

Near the Nāpali Coast on Kauai, Hawaii

Near the Awa’awapuhi Trail Parking.

Near the Nāpali Coast on Kauai, Hawaii

Pu’u O Kila Lookout

Caroline Wise and John Wise near the Nāpali Coast on Kauai, Hawaii

On the edge between the Kōkeʻe State Park and the Nā Pali Coast State Wilderness Park at the end of Highway 550.

A rainbow glows before Kaanakeakua in the background as we look across the Kekaha Ditch on Kauai, Hawaii

Some rainbows don’t illicit a stop as they appear so frequently, but then there are others where the glow combined with an opportune spot to pull over demands we take a pause to appreciate it and try to grab a decent photo. This rainbow sits in front of Mount Kaanakeakua.

Kauai, Hawaii

The Kekaha Lookout.

Kauai, Hawaii

Just south of the Kekaha Lookout.

Sunset near Koloa, Kauai, Hawaii

Sunset on Poipu Beach.

A turtle in the sea Kauai, Hawaii

We saw our first sea turtle in the wild – right at the shoreline, but I was a bit slow getting a better photo.

Old Koloa Town on Kauai, Hawaii

If the Koloa Fish Market didn’t close at midday, we’d have had dinner there instead; we had to find something else, and that something wasn’t as memorable as our poke bento or the fish we had on Molokai. You’ve got to love those moments that leave indelible memories.

Hawaii Vacation – Day 7 (Molokai)

Molokai, Hawaii

Disclaimer: Back in May of 2006, when I started posting about our vacation to the Hawaiian Islands, we were severely limited regarding photos I could share due to bandwidth limitations. Here in 2022, I’m updating these posts using the original image and text I shared, but I’m adding the rest of the photos I would have liked to share if bandwidth and storage had not been issues 16 years ago. 

While we are yet to visit Kauai, that’s tomorrow, I can’t help but think that Molokai is the most authentically Hawaiian island in the chain. The western rampage on the other islands is obvious, while things here seem to still be operating on islander time. If you want a sense of the place, just take a listen to the Hawaiian song E Hihiwai by the Rev. Dennis Kamakahi.

Molokai, Hawaii

Our last day on Molokai, we were supposed to be kayaking on the coast and into a mangrove forest, but the low tide wasn’t cooperating with our scheduled ferry return to Maui.

Molokai, Hawaii

Canceling the kayaking was a disappointment, but we made up for it with some more sightseeing on Molokai – the most peaceful island in Hawaii.

Caroline Wise on Molokai, Hawaii

Here we are back at Kualapu’u Cookhouse, and I’m noticing that Caroline is taking notes about our trip; at this moment, I can’t say they’ve ever been transcribed onto the blog. This means there could be more details coming to these old posts in the future should we find this paisley-covered notebook. Of course, we squared our bill from the night before and, at the same time enjoyed a great breakfast made all the better because it was had on Molokai.

Molokai, Hawaii

Should you want to visit the old leprosy (Hansen’s Disease) colony at the Kalaupapa National Historical Park, you’ll be traveling by mule or by foot. Sadly, we don’t have enough time to make the lengthy trek.

Molokai, Hawaii

Yesterday, we made it out this way, but the lighting didn’t work out, and so here we are again on our way into the Pālāʻau State Park.

Molokai, Hawaii

That’s the peninsula where you’ll find the Kalaupapa National Historical Park.

Molokai, Hawaii

At the end of state highway 47, near Kalaupapa Lookout, is this famous phallic rock called Ka Ule o Nanahoa; I just call it Big Penis.

Caroline Wise on Molokai, Hawaii

Seems that this horse enjoys its lower jaw being tickled.

Molokai, Hawaii

If only Molokai could be preserved in the state it is right now, and that no further development could take place, this shouldn’t ever be the exclusive playground of billionaires, but isn’t that exactly what happens to perfect places when the only thing worth doing is giving greater value to all things in order for capitalism to continue to inflate the coffers that grease the wheels?

Apple bananas may be the greatest bananas we’ll ever taste, seriously better than anything we’ve ever had before.

Molokai, Hawaii

Hawaiian hibiscus, I wonder if it makes a tasty version of the Mexican drink known as Agua de Jamaica?

Molokai, Hawaii

Is this part of the 1/3rd of western Molokai (about 55,000 acres) that is in private hands? Cattle ranching, pineapple orchards, growing wheat, and at one time the world’s number one producer of honey, this incredible natural environment should be set aside in a trust to preserve it for future generations to remember what places look like without the destructive mindset of mankind to destroy what it touches.

Molokai, Hawaii

We are at the Kapuaiwa Coconut Grove, a historic and dangerous place. The grove is historic as it is one of the last royal groves planted for a Hawaiian King and dangerous as those 10-pound coconuts acquainting themselves with gravity pose a significant challenge to your head to deflect one.

Molokai, Hawaii

Would this really remain such an idyllic location if a massive dock were built here to park the giant yachts of the rich and famous? Why do we humans feel this overwhelming need to shit on paradise?

Caroline Wise on Molokai, Hawaii

Just how does a tiny piece of driftwood buried in the sand find a way to grab hold of my pinky toe and bend it to being in a perpendicular state as compared to where it had been? Great, now I have a broken toe, my very first

Wow, there’s a sight: a dozen Hawaiians rowing single-outrigger canoes into port. These boats were likely the same kind that the Polynesians first sailed to this chain of islands some 1,600 years ago. Just consider this act of faith, 2,000 miles from the Marquesas, that was how great their belief was in navigation skills and the ability to capture enough food and water for the journey.

Molokai, Hawaii

The day before, on the ferry to Molokai, we spotted some whales; today, on our way back, we saw a few dolphins.

Caroline Wise and John Wise returning to Maui, Hawaii

On the right is the whale and on the left a svelt dolphin.

On the way to Maui from Molokai, Hawaii

I should end this post right here by saying something about sailing into the sunset, but I still have a few photos I want to share.

Maui, Hawaii

Such as this one that’s seriously difficult to decipher, but it’s a Banyan Tree right in Lāhainā planted back in 1873.

Maui, Hawaii

This effect of turning things into silhouettes by white balancing my camera on the sun might make it look later than it is, but is nothing more than me hunting for an aesthetic. You’ll see from my last photo for the day that it was definitely light enough for other fun stuff.

Caroline Wise on Maui, Hawaii

Fun stuff as in one more opportunity for snorkeling on Maui. Dinner was at Cheeseburgers in Paradise before driving back across Maui for another night at the Banana Bungalow Hostel in Wailuku.

Hawaii Vacation – Day 6 (Molokai)

Sunrise on Maui, Hawaii

Disclaimer: Back in May of 2006, when I started posting about our vacation to the Hawaiian Islands, we were severely limited regarding photos I could share due to bandwidth limitations. Here in 2022, I’m updating these posts using the original image and text I shared, but I’m adding the rest of the photos I would have liked to share if bandwidth and storage had not been issues 16 years ago. 

The only obvious parts of this old post are that sunrise happened on Maui, and we ate dinner at Kualapu’u Cookhouse on Molokai. Okay, there are many other things we can deduce from the photos, but this entry originally only featured the image of Uncle Benny at the bottom of the post and that paragraph that remains intact from what I posted back in 20006; everything else between here and there is being written here at the end of October 2022.

At the dock in Lahaina, Maui

Well, maybe there are other obvious things, such as being at this dock in Lahaina where we launched in the early morning with the mate who was a mighty sailing man, our skipper brave and sure. and us five passengers who set sail for a three-hour tour, a three-hour tour to the island of Molokai

On the Lahaina Princess Ferry to Molokai, Hawaii

The weather started getting rough but not too bad. The tiny ship was tossed; well, that’s how the song went. If not for the courage of the fearless crew, the ferry to Molokai would be lost, the ferry would be lost.

Caroline Wise and John Wise on the On the Lahaina Princess Ferry to Molokai, Hawaii

And then, in a flash, the skies cleared, and the Professor and Mary Ann found that not only were they the only survivors, but they were suddenly, madly, hopelessly in love. They lived happily ever after on an uncharted desert isle.

Approaching Kaunakakai, Molokai

So, just sit right back, and you’ll read a tale, a tale of a fateful trip, that started from a tropic port on Maui about a tiny ship.

On the road in Molokai, Hawaii

Enough of that nonsense. We got to the island of Molokai and had to find our way to the rental car place. Back on the mainland, when I made this reservation, the person seemed perplexed that we wanted to rent a car for two days, as most people don’t. Well, I insisted that we needed a car as we wanted to see as much of Molokai as we could, and now we are driving a car that might be about ten years old and probably had over 120,000 miles on it. No problem, we were moving on our own whims and didn’t need to rely on a taxi. So, with wheels underneath us, we were off.

On the road in Molokai, Hawaii

Well, this is pretty and worthy of a stop.

Someone at Mana'e Goods & Grindz on Molokai offered us these local apples

One of our next stops on the road east was at Mana’e Goods & Grindz for lunch, and on our way out, another customer offered us a couple of these Mountain Apples.

Quick shower came and went on Molokai, Hawaii

Funny thing, this Hawaiian weather, in the 30 minutes or so that we were eating, clouds moved in, dropped a bit of rain, and were just as quickly gone again.

On the road in Molokai, Hawaii

Just driving along on the Kamehameha V Highway on our way to the end of the road.

On the road in Molokai, Hawaii

Not quite at the end yet.

On the road in Molokai, Hawaii

Wow, a nēnē crossing but not a nēnē to be seen. As a matter of fact, at this point, we didn’t believe we would get to see one of these birds once during our stay on the various islands. The nēnē is a goose specific to Hawaii that is believed to have been blown this far out to sea, never to return to the mainland. Little did we know that just one day later, on Kauai…

On the road in Molokai, Hawaii

Hālawa Park with part of Moa’ula Falls in the distance. We are reaching the end of the road.

On the road in Molokai, Hawaii

If one were self-contained as in wealthy enough to never have to venture out and were able to bring most everything needed to them to their remote island paradise, this might be a perfect place to live. If you need to make a living and you’ve not seen the world yet, this could end up being a kind of prison, albeit a beautiful one.

Ruin next to the road in Molokai, Hawaii

Halawa Congregational Church, built in 1852, was destroyed by a 36-foot-tall tidal wave in 1946. That wall of water was due to an earthquake that struck deep in the ocean in faraway Alaska.

St Joseph Church on Molokai, Hawaii

Heading back to Kaunakakai, we passed the St. Joseph’s Mission Church in Kamalō, that’s been standing here since 1876.

On the shore in Molokai, Hawaii

I’d venture to say this stop was at the Kakahai’a Park because shortly after this, we are heading inland, if that’s really even possible. I only say that as it starts to feel like the ocean might be seen from every point on Molokai.

Near Maunaloa on Molokai, Hawaii

On our way to Maunaloa, we are “inland.”

Maunaloa Post Office on Molokai, Hawaii

It’s as though we’ve arrived on yet another island.

Shop owner at the Plantation Gallery in Maunaloa on Molokai, Hawaii

Met the owner of the Plantation Gallery and added more stuff to our stash of things going back to Arizona with us next week.

Near Maunaloa on Molokai, Hawaii

As I said, this does not look like the Molokai we were on just a couple of hours ago.

Approaching sunset on Molokai

We’ve arrived at the far west end of the island at the Pāpōhaku Beach Park.

Caroline Wise on the beach in Molokai, Hawaii

My 39-year-old big kid/pal/wife collecting seashells by the seashore.

Approaching sunset on Molokai

Possibly the one and only time we’ll experience sunset at Pāpōhaku Beach, it surely is one to remember.

Kualapu'u Cookhouse on Molokai

We ended up at the Kualapu’u Cookhouse owned by Steve and Tina. Without enough cash for a meal (no credit cards accepted), Steve extended us credit until morning, and we sat down for a meal of opakapaka (pink snapper) in a lilikoi (passion fruit) butter sauce and the grilled mahi-mahi in a guava-lilikoi sauce – our dinner was outstanding. For dessert, Steve brought us a slice of homemade Macadamia Nut Chocolate Pie to share; it was yummy.

Uncle Benny (Benito Deluna) playing ukulele and singing a Hawaiian love song to Caroline and John Wise at the Kualapu'u Cookhouse on Molokai

Just as we were finishing and the restaurant was closing, Uncle Benny (Benito Deluna) came over and delighted us with a shark tale, explained how life is all about love and brotherhood, and then plucked a couple of heartfelt love songs that finished a perfect day in Hawaii. The next morning, we returned to the Cookhouse to square our bill and sat down to an excellent breakfast; sadly, Uncle Benny only plays evenings.

Hawaii Vacation – Day 5 (Maui)

Disclaimer: Back in May of 2006, when I started posting about our vacation to the Hawaiian Islands, we were severely limited regarding photos I could share due to bandwidth limitations. Here in 2022, I’m updating these posts using the original image and text I shared, but I’m adding the rest of the photos I would have liked to share if bandwidth and storage had not been issues 16 years ago. 

Our second day on Maui started up at Haleakalā Volcano National Park near the summit of 10,023 feet, but not at sunrise, as some might think. It’s not that we are averse to waking especially early to be up here at the break of dawn, but that wasn’t part of what we bargained for to be here.

As a matter of fact, we would be taking off from here after the briefest of 10-minute visit which is all that our driver Mike allocated for this bit of sightseeing.

[This interesting-looking bird is a chukar partridge. Chukars originally lived in Asia but have been introduced to many countries as game birds. – Caroline]

You see, our adventure begins 3,000 feet below our current location.

Well then, here we are at the beginning of it all. Mountain Riders, the only company I could find that would let us ride down the volcano on an unguided tour, provided us with bikes with some heavy-duty moped brakes, helmets, gloves, rain gear if we wanted, and backpacks – for only $59 each! The reason we must start here instead of at the summit is that tour companies are not allowed to have their guests begin their ride from up there, so they start right here at the entrance of Haleakalā Volcano National Park.

Outfitted with our bikes and mandatory helmets, we began our 28-mile downhill coast. Good thing I had the forethought to snap this photo as it’s the closest to an action shot that I’d get today, not that I didn’t try multiple times to snap off some photos while barreling down the mountain.

Regarding the speed of our descent, we requested the self-guided option as we knew from the company’s literature that the ride was maybe 2 hours long, which sounded to me like a race with zero opportunities to stop for photos. Not that we were always moving along at a snail’s pace, but we did stop frequently to capture the highlights, such as our thrilling ride through the Fabulous 29’s, a series of 29 switchbacks where, at times, we hit speeds faster than the posted speed limit.

We glided past eucalyptus trees, and of course, we had to stop to savor their fragrance.

Is the chicken somehow the state bird of Hawaii? They are everywhere.

“Oh, might we get some kind of tropical yummy there?”I hear from Caroline, who obviously has her sights set on dropping in. “What is this, lotion with a passion-fruit scent? Yeah, we’ll take that.” As I’m writing this, the Sunrise Market is no longer in existence (it closed back in 2012), and according to Google Maps, the 8.4 acres might be for sale.

Here we are at 14934 Haleakala Highway, the halfway point and only about 14 miles from our destination.

Pineapple growing on Maui Hawaii

Temptation was hard at work, begging us to snag this perfect specimen of pineapple that nobody could possibly ever miss. And we would have if it hadn’t been sitting behind the sign that sternly warned – NO TRESPASSING!

There were no such signs telling us to stay out of the taro patch; I guess nobody really cares about making poi.

Good thing we were naive about sugarcane otherwise, we should have grabbed a stalk of it and started chewing it up.

We reached Kaulahao Beach in Paia in the nick of time. Our tour company was getting worried about us because we’d been out so long. Well, maybe they should have informed us that there was a version of self-guided that could be too slow. I feel that it was with some reluctance that they even picked us up.

But our day wasn’t over, and the sea figures into what comes next. We had just visited Snorkel Bob’s in Kihei to rent some gear we needed.

Yep, it was time to finally get into the waters of Hawaii after being here on the islands for five days already.

Keawala’i Congregational Church down south of Kihei. Yesterday, when we were on the Road to Hana and circumnavigated the southern part of Maui, we could tell there was a road closer to the ocean, but we were running late, and so this afternoon, with sunlight still in our favor, we were able to make it out here.

Caroline dove into the ocean one last time today at Maluaka Beach south of the church.

Still out on the southwest shore of Maui with the island of Kaho‘olawe off to the left.

Goodnight, Maui; tomorrow, we must leave you as another island beckons.

Hawaii Vacation – Day 4 (Maui)

Sunrise over Hilo Bay on the Big Island of Hawaii

Disclaimer: Back in May of 2006, when I started posting about our vacation to the Hawaiian Islands, we were severely limited regarding photos I could share due to bandwidth limitations. Here in 2022, I’m updating these posts using the original image and text I shared, but I’m adding the rest of the photos I would have liked to share if bandwidth and storage had not been issues 16 years ago. 

Woke up at sunrise for an early drive to Hilo as this was our last day on the Big Island of Hawaii.

Hilo on the Big Island of Hawaii

We certainly didn’t spend enough time here in town because we were too busy exploring the natural environment of the island and visiting the Merrie Monarch Festival.

John Wise and Caroline Wise flying to Maui, Hawaii

And with that, we were gone and on our way to the next island of this tropical adventure.

Mauna Kea on the Big Island of Hawaii

Never even made it close to Mauna Kea, but maybe one day.

Kahoolawe Island part of the Hawaiian Islands between Maui and the Big Island

Along the way, we passed the barren island of Kaho‘olawe. This island was used by the U.S. military and a host of invited militaries as a bombing range. So effective are bombs at creating devastation that this island had 1200 feet of features blown off for eternity. The bombing also appears to have had the effect of cracking the island’s water table, dealing what would appear to be the final blow to this once-tropical island which already had been practically denuded by overgrazing goats and cattle in the early 1900s. Millions of dollars have been spent trying to clear unexploded ordnance and get life to take root again, to little avail. Oh well, no matter; who needs islands anyway? We can just build artificial ones as Japan and Dubai do.

And here we are on Maui. Our first stop was the rental car office, where we found out that no more economy cars were available for us and that we were “upgraded” to a 4-wheel-drive jeep “for free.” To the surprise of the clerk, we were less than pleased because we had hoped for a less gas-guzzling vehicle.  However, this jeep would allow us to experience one of the top tourist destinations here in Maui, the “Road to Hana,” which leads to the eastern side of the island. On the way east, we passed Mantokuji, which is a Soto Zen Buddhist temple in Paia. The Japanese influence is readily apparent.

The famous Road to Hana is super scenic and very popular. A cruise ship must have arrived earlier today because we saw a number of identical rental jeeps en route. However, we took things slowly and let everyone else pass us by.

You’d think that a relatively tight cluster of islands out in the middle of the Pacific Ocean would produce nearly identical landscapes, and maybe it’s only due to the variations in terrain, but I’m getting the sense there are nuanced differences that I’m not yet able to put a finger on.

The great thing about the Kahului Airport here in Maui is that it’s on the edge of the city, meaning we didn’t have to step foot into town. This is a little luxury where, barely an hour after we left the Big Island, we were off in the wilds.

Somewhere back up the road, we passed Mile Marker Zero of the Road to Hana. I’m sure had we seen the marker, we’d have a selfie of ourselves in front of it, but there you are, spared another indulgent photo of the two of us.

Somehow we have traveled 18 miles since we passed the beginning of the Road to Hana as we stop at this famous Wailua Valley Lookout and take a photo a million before us have taken and 100 million will take in the future.

Upper Waikani Falls may not have been the first waterfalls along this road, but this was one of those days where we didn’t really know how long we might need for the drive, so we felt we needed to be frugal with the stops. Mind you, we were warned that it wasn’t allowed for us to take our rental vehicle past the end of the Road to Hana which made us a bit nervous as to what we’d find out there.

Finding banana bread and carrot juice at a roadside stop that asked visitors to do the honorable thing and leave the money in a box was a welcome surprise and a great gesture.

A flower from a plant in the Heliconia family also known as lobster-claws, toucan beak, wild plantain, or false bird-of-paradise.

That banana bread and carrot juice were snacks because just a bit further down the road was someone set up with a makeshift kitchen offering homemade traditional Hawaiian “plate lunch” that we would have devoured even if we’d just finished a dozen loaves of banana bread. This road is turning out to be a non-stop luxury.

No time for siesta; we have more blue sky, azure and turquoise seas, and lush forests for us to see with our own eyes.

Here at Wailua Falls, we are definitely traveling south by now and are about 23 south further along from when we took the photo of Wailua Valley.

There, in the shadow carved into the steep cliff, is our road, believe it or not.

Caroline Wise and John Wise at Haleakalā National Park on Maui, Hawaii

Entering Haleakalā National Park for a brief moment, tomorrow we’ll be visiting the top of the eponymous volcanic mountain that lent its name to the park.

The Pools of ‘Ohe’o, a.k.a. the Seven Sacred Pools south of Hana. We learned prior to leaving Arizona that these pools were one of the places we had to visit, but with so many others there before us and parking at a premium, we’re just thrilled we’ve had the chance to gaze upon them ourselves.

This is to note that these are the first ever bananas we’ve seen growing anywhere. Had they not been green, you can bet we would have picked a couple. Come to think about it, we should have anyway, as they would have ripened along the way.

And we just kept on going…

On the road to Hana on Maui, Hawaii

…even when I had to proceed with white knuckles and some courtesy horn beeping to let others know that we are nervously over here hugging the inside of what can, at times, hardly be called a road. No wonder the rental car companies don’t want you to take this drive all the way around the island!

On the road to Hana on Maui, Hawaii

Overcome the anxiety, and on the other side, we find perfection.

On the road to Hana on Maui, Hawaii

There is something about the places where land meets the sea that are some of the most seductive and intriguing locations to find ourselves exploring. Maybe it’s the long-dormant memory from when an ancestor emerged from the ocean.

On the road to Hana on Maui, Hawaii

Ah, the always-beautiful plumeria. It was somewhere just before or after these flowers that we left the Hana Highway and effectively merged onto the Piilani Highway.

Huialoha Church on Maui Hawaii

Seen here is the Huialoha Church, which opened its doors back in 1859 to serve the Hawaiian people of Kaupo.

Haleakalā National Park seen from Hana on Maui, Hawaii

Looking inland from the church, this is the view toward the volcano of Haleakalā.

On the road to Hana on Maui, Hawaii

More of that white-knuckle road that I was hoping didn’t get any worse than this.

On the road to Hana on Maui, Hawaii

Somehow, the day is growing short with the sun starting to dig deeper into the horizon. Uncertain how long it will take us to get to the Kahului area where we are spending the night, we decide to get a move on it and try to cut short the sightseeing.

On the road to Hana on Maui, Hawaii

Obviously, we’ve left the primitive road we’ve been traveling since morning, and while the photos may only share a couple of dozen locations, we’ve likely not driven more than a mile or two before stopping, but I can’t share 150 photos here now, can I? I wonder if this road simply traced the old trail that might have been carved through here over time.

Sunset over Maui, Hawaii

To the best of my ability to read maps, I want to say that the small island under the sun is Lanai, and to the right of it, out of view, would be Molokai.

We spent the night in the cheapest place we could find on the island, Banana Bungalow in Wailuku, for only $59 a night. Sixteen years later I see the price for a private room at this hostel is now $144 a night. And that was our first day ever on the Hawaiian island of Maui.

Hawaii Vacation – Day 3 (Big Island)

Halema'uma'u Crater in the Kilauea Caldera at Volcanoes National Park on the Big Island of Hawaii

Disclaimer: Back in May of 2006, when I started posting about our vacation to the Hawaiian Islands, we were severely limited regarding photos I could share due to bandwidth limitations. Here in 2022, I’m updating these posts using the original image and text I shared, but I’m adding the rest of the photos I would have liked to share if bandwidth and storage had not been issues 16 years ago. 

This is the Halema’uma’u Crater inside the Kilauea Caldera at Volcanoes National Park on the Big Island of Hawaii. Like most all things we visit, there seems to be a permanence of place that will survive well past the puny lifespan of our brief lives, but not here in the case of this crater.

Halema'uma'u Crater in the Kilauea Caldera at Volcanoes National Park on the Big Island of Hawaii

The caldera floor we were looking at from an overlook had been dormant for 24 years, but two years after our visit, it was damaged by a small eruption. From that point forward, the floor of Halema’uma’u was an active lava lake with sporadic activity until the entire system started to collapse on May 1st, 2018. In the first six days of that episode the floor of the caldera sunk by 722 feet (220 meters). Only three months later, the crater was roughly 2,000 feet deep (600 meters), and the overlook was gone from the map.

Volcanoes National Park on the Big Island of Hawaii

We are accustomed to living things coming and going as the nature of life is all about constant change, but the rock we are living upon doesn’t seem to change within the scope of our lifetimes. Well, that’s not true at all, as evidenced by the rim of a volcanic crater where we once stood with the confidence that it would always look like that, only to be proven wrong. One might think that the planet, too, is a living thing.

Volcanoes National Park on the Big Island of Hawaii

A sprout emerges, and soon, a stalk thrusts upward toward the sun, and the arms of the fern unfold to capture the energy that will propel its life forward, allowing another cycle of life to bear fruit and spawn even more life. It all seems so symbiotic when I look at the plant in relation to the earth, and yet somehow, we humans can’t recognize that we should be in the same well-balanced position as the lowly plant.

Lava Tube at Volcanoes National Park on the Big Island of Hawaii

The day before, we had taken the hike along the coast to see where the lava was entering the ocean; today, we focused on the caldera and visited a lava tube.

Caroline Wise in the Lava Tube at Volcanoes National Park on the Big Island of Hawaii

We are in Nāhuku (Thurston Lava Tube), where the phenomenon of turning semi-transparent while simultaneously witnessing the quantum entangled version of a person is a real thing. Maybe lava tubes are the planet’s microtubules, and we are undergoing a polymerization process in them, allowing us to grow our potential.

Caroline Wise and John Wise at Volcanoes National Park on the Big Island of Hawaii

While the lava tubes did nothing for my obesity, I do think our potential for love and adventure was increased.

Ka Mauloa Church in Kurtistown, Hawaii on Highway 11

While yesterday saw us exploring the leeward side of the Big Island, today, we are taking time to better experience the windward side. Here we are at Ka Mauloa Church in Kurtistown, Hawaii, on Highway 11, where the Ho‘omana Na‘auao o Hawai‘i Organization continues the tradition of performing services in their native Hawaiian language, technically known as ʻŌlelo Hawaiʻi.

Hilo Bay on the Big Island of Hawaii

Leaving the Volcano Road, we reach Hilo Bay and merge onto the Mamalahoa Highway that will take us north.

Big Island of Hawaii

For the next 10 miles, there is no plan other than seeing what the landscape looks like.

Big Island of Hawaii

Once in a while, the sight of the extraordinary commands that we stop and try to capture the essence of this beautiful place.

Big Island of Hawaii

There is no comparing any of this to the California, Oregon, or Washington coasts and obviously, it’s a million miles away in appearance and climate from the North Atlantic coast.

Ishigo's on the Old Mamalahoa Highway in Honomu, Hawaii

What’s not to love about the architecture found in Hawaii? Not the ugly Honolulu stuff we briefly saw on Oahu but this old-fashioned style that has a real character, such as Ishigo’s in Honomu.

Akaka Falls State Park in Honomu, Hawaii

We have entered the lands of the Akaka Falls State Park. Let me reiterate that for you, we are visiting AKAKA…Falls State Park.

Akaka Falls State Park in Honomu, Hawaii

I can only wonder about those who visit these islands for the beaches or volcanoes exclusively and fail to see these little details.

Akaka Falls State Park in Honomu, Hawaii

This Torch Ginger turns out to be edible, not that learning this while not in Hawaii is very useful.

Akaka Falls State Park in Honomu, Hawaii

One doesn’t really understand that moss and ferns grow on bamboo until seen with your own eyes.

Akaka Falls State Park in Honomu, Hawaii

This might be the most beautiful thing I’ll see today.

Akaka Falls State Park in Honomu, Hawaii

Even the Akaka Falls doesn’t compare to that fern in the previous photo, though this water falling into a bottomless pit is a spectacle one doesn’t see every day.

Akaka Falls State Park in Honomu, Hawaii

This is Apeepee Falls, the little cousin to Akaka. (I’ll bet $2 Caroline has groaned at least twice by now.) [Yep…]

Caroline Wise with fresh coconut near Akaka Falls State Park in Honomu, Hawaii

If you are wondering if I could vulgarize Caroline’s drinking from this oversized nut of the Coco variety, you know I could, but I’m trying to hold back out of respect for her enjoying her very first sip of the freshest coconut water she’s ever had.

Looking at the Pacific Ocean from Honomu, Hawaii

And with that, we ran out of things to do and hit the gas launching our car with us in it into the big blue ocean.

Honomu, Hawaii

Would you believe that we were saved by a gaggle of mermaids who brought us to this Buddhist Temple of Honomu Hongwanji? Yeah, neither would I, although I’d like the idea of it being possible.

Caroline Wise in Honomu, Hawaii

It is difficult to see here, but Caroline is holding a handful of plumeria, a flower she absolutely loves. It turns out that a German physician/botanist by the name of Dr. William Hillebrand first introduced the plumeria to the islands back in 1860.

Somewhere off Highway 19 on the Big Island of Hawaii

Subsequently, in 1822, Dr. Zygmunt Kramsztyk, of Polish descent, introduced the Pacific Ocean to Hawaii. Before this gets out of hand, I just made up this part, but the plumeria story is true.

Somewhere off Highway 19 on the Big Island of Hawaii

And with that, we ran out of things to do and hit the gas launching our car with us in it into the big blue ocean.

Kalopa Native Forest Trail near Honokaa, Hawaii

Would you believe that we were saved by a fever of forest nymphs who brought us to the Kalopa Native Forest State Park?

Kalopa Native Forest Trail near Honokaa, Hawaii

Only through the lens of hindsight do we really see the traits we were maybe not aware of when we were trudging through our adventures, and in this instance, looking back from 2022, I see that we were big on short trails. I know that, in part, this was due to trying to capture as many experiences as possible, but here in this last third of our life, we now aim for more immersive, longer jaunts into the nature we find ourselves able to access. Maybe in some way, it’s like my overeating, afraid that I’ll never have something so yummy ever again, I want all that I can gobble down regardless of how much I might overeat. Not sure we’d ever see Hawaii again; see everything as fast as we can.

Kalopa Native Forest Trail near Honokaa, Hawaii

I think I might have been wrong about that previous fiddlehead image, and this could actually be the most beautiful thing I’ll see today.

Kalopa Native Forest Trail near Honokaa, Hawaii

Over on the mainland, when fall rolls around, leaves turn orange, red, and yellow, you know, fall colors, while here in Hawaii, during the spring, apparently leaves turn pink and magenta.

Kalopa Native Forest Trail near Honokaa, Hawaii

It was at this point Caroline admonished me that if I continued this exercise of taking thousands of photos, I’d never be able to choose just one to best represent the day on my blog. Little did she know that in the future, I’d be able to update this post to include 40 to 50 images here in 2022. I’m anticipating that if I should live to be 80 years old, in 2043, I’ll be once again updating this post to possibly well over 100 images, and we’ll know who got the last laugh then.

Pacific Ocean view near Honokaa, Hawaii

And with that, we ran out of things to do and hurled ourselves over the landscape into the big blue ocean.

Honokaa, Hawaii

Would you believe that we were saved by a pod of three-legged whales that brought us to the Honokaa People’s Theatre, where we are still telling this tall tale to this day?

Waipiʻo Valley Lookout on the Big Island of Hawaii

Waipiʻo Valley Lookout is the edge of today’s universe for the two of us. While a road takes travelers further north, we’ll have to save that for a visit in the future. We have to return to Hilo.

Caroline Wise on the Big Island of Hawaii

This is the three-legged mermaid forest nymph that saved me today and every other day.

Merrie Monarch Festival in Hilo, Hawaii

Our date in Hilo had us returning for the evening festivities here at the Merrie Monarch Festival.

Merrie Monarch Festival in Hilo, Hawaii

Hula is not just grass skirts as a matter of fact, as far as I can tell, the clothing doesn’t really matter as the art form is all about the hand gestures representing words, chants telling of important histories, and the music that accompanies the storytelling in order to create a narrative.

Merrie Monarch Festival in Hilo, Hawaii

Knowing this bit of background, I want subtitles for these performances so I might learn something about the history of the Hawaiian people through their songs.

Merrie Monarch Festival in Hilo, Hawaii

Early encounters with white Christian zealots tried to dissuade the Hawaiians from practicing Hula as they saw its roots in paganism, and so they thought it evil and against god. Two hundred years later, the religious fanaticism of the Christian right has hardly advanced, but while they concern themselves with abortion and trying to find new ways to suppress various ethnicities, Hawaiian culture fights to maintain itself through gentrification and the loss of their lands.

Merrie Monarch Festival in Hilo, Hawaii

I wish I didn’t bring up these cultural imperialistic tragedies, but being in Hawaii screams at me what is probably lost forever and what is yet to disappear. In my view, none of what identifies a Hawaiian should ever be lost, especially to the superficial nonsense that is capitalism and its flamethrower of total destruction.

Merrie Monarch Festival in Hilo, Hawaii

I have no idea what the words are that are being said here with these women’s hands, but I’m going to go with the idea that they are welcoming their traditions, gods, and ancestors.