Hawaii – Day 1

Eastern shore of Oahu, Hawaii

O’ahu, Hawaii. We landed before lunch with an appetite and knew exactly where we were going. First up, though, we had to get our rental car and make our way through Honolulu. This is like driving through an outdoor Forums Shops at Caesars Palace in Las Vegas. If you’ve come to Hawaii to shop, this is certainly the place to do that. This hustle and bustle are not for us; we are heading off the beaten path. Away from the glitz, we were looking for Da Ono Hawaiian Food, a joint of a restaurant. Nothing fancy here, but the food is said to be amazing. In just a few minutes, we are squeezed into a small table, and the menu is dropped in front of us. We drool at the options and decide to share a pork lau lau (steamed pork in taro leaves), kalua pork (pork roast in Hawaiian yumminess), butterfish (not exactly what you might think), and some purple yam. If only we could come back one more time before the end of our stay on O’ahu!

Time for us to put even more distance between us and the tourist rat race as we head for the hills. During our visit to the islands back in 2006, we only afforded O’ahu a few hours stopover after hearing that serious travelers and Honolulu are incompatible. We had circumnavigated the southern end of the island, passing through Diamond Head and making our way about halfway up before cutting over Highway 83 to return to the airport for our flight to the Big Island. Today, we are traveling in the opposite direction and will drive north after reaching the eastern shore. The photo above is our first stop at the water’s edge. No tourists, no shops, nothing but a picnic table and some trees up against the ocean. On that trip half a dozen years ago we ended our vacation in a similar manner compared to how we are starting today. Back then, our last stop was on Kauai at Poipu Beach at a picnic table under the trees, where we had breakfast and bid Hawaii adieu. Today, we are full of aloha to be so fortunate to have returned.

The view from our room at Turtle Bay Resort on the North Shore of Oahu, Hawaii

Last year, at the Interactive Sites Christmas party, the place Caroline works, she was the grand prize winner of the big giveaway. That prize was for five days to be spent at Turtle Bay Resort on the north shore of Oahu, Hawaii. Guess where we are? A big warm MAHALO to Mike and Paul for sending us here; they are the bosses, and their generosity is super appreciated.

Caroline Wise standing on the north shore at Turtle Bay Resort on Oahu, Hawaii

Checked in and ecstatic, we head to the beach. Lava rock and sand, yep, we are in Hawaii. The water is crystal clear and beautiful, but the sun is disappearing fast. The long days of summer have passed, though we aren’t complaining; we wouldn’t know how as we are so high on the fact that we are here standing at the ocean’s edge on the north shore. Along our walk, we spot snails, crabs, small fish, anemones, sea cucumbers, broken corals, small peculiar-looking plants that look like ears, some small birds, and not one other person. For this sunset the day after Caroline’s 45th birthday that fell on 12-12-12, we are together with this stretch of beach all to ourselves. What a great gift and day it is.

We weren’t quite done yet, though. No, we didn’t dine at a fine restaurant at the resort, no candlelit meal for us in view of the sea. In keeping with our take-it-easy approach to things, we wanted local funk, and that’s what we got. Down the road we’d come upon earlier, we had passed Kahuku Grill, now known as Seven Brothers in Kahuku at The Mill, and that is where we were going back to. Not that our decision was that easy. We looked around for some local grindz (Hawaiian for grub), but pickings were slim, so we just kept on searching until we had gotten as far as the Kahuku. Lucky us. Like a lighthouse beacon grabbing a sailor’s attention, it was the Fire in Paradise Burger that arrested ours. Wow is the only thing we could utter as we fell in love with their grilled pineapple and a jalapeno burger. The place is popular with the college crowd, so be prepared to wait, but it’s so well worth it. Back in the room, we opened the balcony door wide to go to sleep to the sound of the crashing surf below.

Aloha

Various Hawaiian cookies from Aloha Baskets & Balloons

This week has been terrific for our senses. First, we get the mandolin back, then a big damp box of Poi from Hanalei Poi on Kauai is delivered – this stuff is fresh, just made on Monday, wrapped in a box lined with frozen bags and two-day express shipped. And finally, this box of goodies arrives from Aloha Baskets & Balloons on the Big Island (808-935-1939). Sharla was delayed sending the cookies due to the earthquake Hawaii recently experienced, and to make up for the delay she included some freebies including delicious Pineapple Coconut Butter Cookies and Macadamia Nut Butter Cookies, both of these are from Mama Ellas of Hawaii, and a bag of Cinnamon Butter Hawaiian Topical Lavosh – from Rainbow Falls Connection. Also in the box were the Lilikoi (Passion Fruit) Butter Cookies I ordered for myself, and Caroline’s favorite – Mt. View Stone Cookies. Now, if I could just get those guys at the Koloa Fish Market in Kauai to send over their most awesome Poke Bento…or give us the recipe, come on guys we promise not to share it with anyone!!!!

Stone Cookies

Stone Cookies from the Big Island of Hawaii

Leaving the Big Island of Hawaii we skipped breakfast for the sake of a little more sightseeing and picked up a bag of Stone Cookies for a quick snack on the plane. The bag did not get opened until we were in the air – Mmmmm, yummy, these would be great with coffee. Figuring we could buy more on one of the next islands, we were disappointed in not finding even one bag more. We cherished them, finishing the last cookie after we returned to Arizona. These are after all Stone cookies and as hard as they are, one could easily believe they might last forever or at least never appear stale.

It took weeks of calling the number on the bag in Mt. View, Hawaii, before I caught someone in the bakery and was able to inquire about mail order. They don’t do it. But, Aloha Baskets & Balloons in Hilo does. A very nice lady by the name of Sharla gladly took my order for half a dozen bags of these wonderful Stone Cookies and soon seven pounds of the rocks were on their way. These cookies are not very sweet, they may be the most difficult things to chew next to bones, but there is something about them Caroline and I love. So, if you were lucky enough to try Stone Cookies on your recent trip to the Big Island of Hawaii and have been wondering where to find them, try Sharla at 808-935-1939. The free bag of Passion Fruit Butter Cookies was a great treat, too.

Hawaii Vacation – Day 11 (Kauai)

Showering at Kahili Mountain Cabin in Koloa, Kauai, Hawaii

Disclaimer: Back in May of 2006, when I started posting about our vacation to the Hawaiian Islands, we were severely limited regarding photos I could share due to bandwidth limitations. Here in 2022, I’m updating these posts using the original image and text I shared, but I’m adding the rest of the photos I would have liked to share if bandwidth and storage had not been issues 16 years ago. 

Under Kahili Mountain we awoke to the rooster’s crow, stepped outside, and showered beneath the banana tree leaves partly covering our outdoor shower. This is the view of looking up while naked.

Spider in Kahili Mountain Cabin in Koloa, Kauai, Hawaii

I left the key on the table of our cabin under the watchful gaze of this spider, started the car, and drove to the beach.

Caroline Wise enjoying fresh pineapple at Poipu Beach on the island of Kauai, Hawaii

Caroline grabbed yesterday’s pineapple and apple bananas, I picked up the snorkel gear, and we sat down below a palm tree for breakfast on Poipu Beach.

Snorkeling at Poipu Beach on the island of Kauai, Hawaii

Some early morning cloud cover quickly gave way, and the sun lit the shallow waters for one more swim with the fishies.

Snorkeling at Poipu Beach on the island of Kauai, Hawaii

They all came by to wish us good luck on our travels and assured us they were looking forward to meeting us again one day.

Snorkeling at Poipu Beach on the island of Kauai, Hawaii

Even the urchin waved its pointy spines a fond farewell; the display of love touched our tear glands.

Snorkeling at Poipu Beach on the island of Kauai, Hawaii

Others turned their backs, afraid they too would cry, saying as they did so, “Just go now.”

Snorkeling at Poipu Beach on the island of Kauai, Hawaii

Crap, now I can’t remember if this was a Moorish idol, a schooling bannerfish, or pennant coralfish; I think it said it was a Moorish idol, but don’t quote me.

Snorkeling at Poipu Beach on the island of Kauai, Hawaii

Whoa, a purple velvet pufferfish with Starfield came out to enchant us.

Snorkeling at Poipu Beach on the island of Kauai, Hawaii

And with that, we left the ocean like only people can and started our journey to the airport.

Poipu Beach on the island of Kauai, Hawaii

Goodbye, palm tree and picnic table that hosted breakfast this morning; we’ll keep you both in our hearts for years to come.

Caroline Wise joining the band at the airport in Kauai, Hawaii

Nope, I still think she looks better with me, guys, so no, you can’t keep her for the band, but big mahalo for putting smiles on our faces as we were facing the sad reality of returning to Phoenix, Arizona, where we will not find such yummy pineapple, poke bowls, albatross, outdoor showers, or pufferfish. Aloha, Hawaii, it’s been great.

Hawaii Vacation – Day 10 (Kauai)

Kahili Mountain Park in Koloa, Kauai, Hawaii

Disclaimer: Back in May of 2006, when I started posting about our vacation to the Hawaiian Islands, we were severely limited regarding photos I could share due to bandwidth limitations. Here in 2022, I’m updating these posts using the original image and text I shared, but I’m adding the rest of the photos I would have liked to share if bandwidth and storage had not been issues 16 years ago. 

I just can’t get enough of this view and our incredible good luck at nabbing such lodging here under Kahili Mountain. If I weren’t a cynical man, I’d think that karma has its benefits.

Lowfin Chub at Poipu Beach on Kauai, Hawaii

We did lots of snorkeling between Maui, Molokai, and Kauai, thanks to the guys at Snorkel Bob’s who rented us the gear. Pufferfish to eels, butterflyfish to needlefish, even the state fish of Hawaii, the Humuhumunukunukuapua’a (also known as the reef triggerfish), were all seen by Caroline and me on our snorkeling.

National Tropical Botanical Garden on Kauai, Hawaii

This is our last full day on the islands, and we made the best of it. After snorkeling, we paid a short visit to a part of the National Tropical Botanical Gardens where we were able to behold the sight of the endangered jade vine.

National Tropical Botanical Garden on Kauai, Hawaii

The water lotus flower should leave people speechless that such a flower even existed during our time and didn’t go extinct with the demise of the dinosaurs, as it looks like something right out of the Cretaceous period to me.

National Tropical Botanical Garden on Kauai, Hawaii

The aptly named rainbow eucalyptus tree.

National Tropical Botanical Garden on Kauai, Hawaii

Ultimately, the mosquitos drove us away, but not before Caroline sacrificed another gram of blood so I could snap this photo.

Roadside fruit and veggie vendor near Koloa, Kauai, Hawaii

The next stop was back at the little roadside fresh fruit stand to get another sweet pineapple along with the yummiest apple bananas that we kept for tomorrow’s breakfast. Then, a stop at the Koloa Fish Market for another poke bento fish breakfast.

Kauai's Hindu Monastery on Kauai, Hawaii

We have returned to the Kauai Hindu Monastery in an attempt to gather a better view of the facility and surrounding land.

Kauai's Hindu Monastery on Kauai, Hawaii

While I donned the obligatory lungi (actually, it was a sarong), we were still tourists and not adherents of Hinduism, so my hopes of visiting the temple were dashed as it’s frowned upon to interfere with people observing their moment of prayer. Well, the grounds are well worth the visit.

Kauai's Hindu Monastery on Kauai, Hawaii

The diversity of plants here is amazing and to think it’s a tiny fraction of what exists in the rain forests of South America.

Kauai's Hindu Monastery on Kauai, Hawaii

Nope, won’t be visiting that building out there any time soon.

Kauai's Hindu Monastery on Kauai, Hawaii

Lord Ganesha, a.k.a. Ganpati, is upon the door facing Nandi, the bull that I took the photo of yesterday.

Caroline Wise sitting next to the ocean on Kauai, Hawaii

On our way back up the eastern shore.

Near Hanalei on Kauai, Hawaii

Approaching Hanalei but not making many stops as we have an objective that demands we get somewhere at a reasonable time.

Poi from Hanalei on Kauai, Hawaii

In Hanalei in time for a lunch of mixed plate something or other, including poi and rice and a taro smoothie.

Hanalei Beach Kauai, Hawaii

Okay, one ocean photo before getting serious.

On the Kalalau Trail to the Nā Pali Coast on Kauai, Hawaii

We are back at the Haena State Park for a hike up the Kalalau trail.

Toad on the Kalalau Trail to the Nā Pali Coast on Kauai, Hawaii

No, we didn’t lick it.

On the Kalalau Trail to the Nā Pali Coast on Kauai, Hawaii

On Kauai, this is known as a trail.

Caroline Wise on the Kalalau Trail to the Nā Pali Coast on Kauai, Hawaii

I probably licked that once or twice, though not while on the trail of toads and roots.

On the Kalalau Trail to the Nā Pali Coast on Kauai, Hawaii

When on the edge of this trail, it’s probably better to look inland as it’s kind of scary out here from time to time.

On the Kalalau Trail to the Nā Pali Coast on Kauai, Hawaii

That’s Ke’e Beach down there, where I took the photo of Caroline walking alone.

Nā Pali Coast on Kauai, Hawaii

Somewhere out there on the left is the famed Hanakāpīʻai Beach on Kauai’s Nā Pali coast, which we won’t be visiting today.

Caroline Wise and John Wise on the Nā Pali Coast on Kauai, Hawaii

We only made it about a mile and a half as my broken toe wasn’t enjoying the rough trail.

Nā Pali Coast on Kauai, Hawaii

Maybe another time?

Nā Pali Coast on Kauai, Hawaii

At least we won’t be hiking back on this dangerous trail in the dark.

On the Kalalau Trail to the Nā Pali Coast on Kauai, Hawaii

A red-crested cardinal was treated the same as the toad and not licked, though we may have salted its tail.

Ke’e Beach on Kauai, Hawaii

Back on terra firma. I’ve looked far and wide, trying to figure out just where I took this photo, but have come up with absolutely nothing.

Sunset at Ke’e Beach on Kauai, Hawaii

Back down on the Ke’e beach.

Sunset with Caroline Wise at Ke’e Beach on Kauai, Hawaii

We were just in time for a golden sunset and a beautiful ending to our final day on Kauai.

Hawaii Vacation – Day 9 (Kauai)

Rainbow over Kahili Mountain Park in Koloa, Kauai, Hawaii

Disclaimer: Back in May of 2006, when I started posting about our vacation to the Hawaiian Islands, we were severely limited regarding photos I could share due to bandwidth limitations. Here in 2022, I’m updating these posts using the original image and text I shared, but I’m adding the rest of the photos I would have liked to share if bandwidth and storage had not been issues 16 years ago. 

Kauai, where you wake up to rainbows. As I said yesterday, we are staying here under Kahili Mountain for the duration of our stay on this island. Before we head out for our late breakfast at the Koloa Fish Market, we thought we should take a moment to familiarize ourselves with our surroundings.

Kahili Mountain Park in Koloa, Kauai, Hawaii

You don’t have to go far to find a universe that’s a world away from the one we’ll be jumping into shortly back down at Poipu Beach, where we finished our day yesterday.

Kahili Mountain Park in Koloa, Kauai, Hawaii

Imagine how many biomes any of us with the means could explore if there was the desire to gather the infinite. Instead, many will focus on celebrity du jour as though the study of fame and wealth could inspire someone to easily achieve something so esoteric and rare as deep talent, but that’s how we package cultural consumption. It’s as though if one were to watch Star Wars, they too could be a Jedi fighter, and with cosplay, I suppose they in some way do just that, but who might ever attempt to take inventory of every variant of Lantana and then pretend to be Darth Frugivore destroying the Lantana Empire’s fruit? Probably not a movie that would sell well.

Kahili Mountain Park in Koloa, Kauai, Hawaii

Just then, this frugivorous lizard throws me side-eye and telepathically signals me to stop making fun of their universe.

Snorkeling at Poipu Beach in Koloa, Kauai, Hawaii

Excuse me while we take this underwater. Here we are at Poipu Beach in Koloa was the first place we snorkeled. So I asked this Christmas Wrasse what its thoughts were about a culture preoccupied with the superficial. It blooped out a couple of bubbles, signaling me to piss off.

Snorkeling at Poipu Beach in Koloa, Kauai, Hawaii

No, you stupid human, I am not some philosopher fish, nor should you confuse me with some famous aquatic sociologist Osteichthyes you might think I am; I’m just a fish swimming in the sea, likely as confused as you are.

Poipu Beach in Koloa, Kauai, Hawaii

Back on Poipu Beach, I find no sign of intelligent life, so we return to the sea like the Tiktaalik should have done.

Snorkeling at Lawa'i Beach in Koloa, Kauai, Hawaii

Not finding what I was looking for at Poipu, we moved up the road to Lawa’i Beach in Koloa and started looking for fish with answers to life’s important questions.

Snorkeling at Lawa'i Beach in Koloa, Kauai, Hawaii

Lunch was at Koloa Fish Market. Just kidding, we pulled this guy out of the water, ate it, and called it sushi.

Kapaia Stitchery in Lihue, Kauai, Hawaii

Kapaia Stitchery in Lihue beckoned. Without yarn stores, we made do by Caroline buying some fabric.

Wailua Falls in Lihue, Kauai, Hawaii

Wailua Falls in Lihue, and I’ve not a snarky thing to share. In any case, that nonsense can only go so far.

Caroline Wise on Wailua Beach Kauai, Hawaii

Caroline Wise on Wailua Beach, I’m starting to believe she’s trying to return to some ancient form.

Poliahu Park in Wailua, Kauai, Hawaii

We are driving into Poliahu Park because our day needs more waterfalls.

'Opaeka'a Falls on Kauai, Hawaii

‘Opaeka’a Falls is just the medicine.

Caroline Wise enjoying a fresh coconut near 'Opaeka'a Falls in Wailua, Kauai, Hawaii

Waterfalls followed by fresh coconut water.

Kauai's Hindu Monastery on Kauai, Hawaii

We are at Kauai’s Hindu Monastery admiring Nandi, the bull that transports the Hindu God Shiva. We didn’t stay long as a private event was restricting areas from visitation.

Kilauea Point National Wildlife Refuge on Kauai, Hawaii

Continuing our exploration, traveling north on the east side of Kauai, we reached the Kilauea Point National Wildlife Refuge.

Kilauea Lighthouse at Kilauea Point National Wildlife Refuge on Kauai, Hawaii

Like most lighthouses these days, they serve an aesthetic tourism role as their lights were decommissioned long ago, having been replaced with electronic beacons. Fortunately, they are being preserved, though I can’t imagine the expense will be carried on for decades to come unless they are financially self-supporting.

Nene seen at Kilauea Point National Wildlife Refuge on Kauai, Hawaii

So this is the famous nēnē goose; its neck feathers are like no other I’ve seen, but then again, maybe I’ve not seen a super wide variety of geese.

Albatross seen at Kilauea Point National Wildlife Refuge on Kauai, Hawaii

We watched a bunch of frigates gliding along the ocean’s edge, but it was the albatross that demanded most of my attention. The albatross is the bird that can circumnavigate the earth in as little as 46 days, can fly for 10,000 miles, remains out over our oceans for up to six years, can read the weather far in front of it, and navigate to avoid storms; this giant bird is magical in my eyes. When one stops to think about the juvenile leaving the nest and this solo journey for years as it matures, only returning to its birth island to find a mate after this pilgrimage to the sea, should leave us wondering what is it gathering in experience as it travels our earth in ways no other creature can.

Hanalei Valley in Princeville, Kauai, Hawaii

Hanalei Valley in Princeville is home to one of the most famous overlooks, but right now, the weather is not cooperating for one of those photos.

Caroline Wise at Wishing Well Shave Ice in Hanalei, Kauai, Hawaii

Wishing Well Shave Ice in Hanalei because if we don’t try them all, how will we know which one is the best?

Hanalei Beach Kauai, Hawaii

Hanalei Beach, with two other visitors, we held back so as not to crowd them.

Wainiha Bay Park in Kapa'a, Kauai, Hawaii

Wainiha Bay Park in Kapa’a was all ours, not another person in sight. How much longer can this kind of experience be had on the Hawaiian Islands?

Road to Nā Pali Natural Area Preserve Kauai, Hawaii

On our way to the end of the road. We take note along the way to return to the Limahuli Garden & Preserve National Tropical Botanical Garden should we have time this trip or maybe on a future return to the island.

Ke'e Beach in Haena State Park Kauai, Hawaii

Ke’e Beach in Haena State Park is what we’ll be exploring today, as the Kalalau Trail will require more time than we can afford this afternoon. The Kalalau Trail I mentioned is the famous one that takes the intrepid out on the Nā Pali Coast.

Ke'e Beach in Haena State Park Kauai, Hawaii

Shore erosion?

Caroline Wise and John Wise on Ke'e Beach in Haena State Park Kauai, Hawaii

The faces of happy people on the island of Kauai on a beautiful day.

Caroline Wise on Ke'e Beach in Haena State Park Kauai, Hawaii

The threatened crowds never materialized; maybe this is the benefit of showing up outside of the main summer season.

Hanalei Valley Lookout in Princeville, Kauai, Hawaii

On our way back around the island, we had that perfect moment where the lighting did all the work of showing off what the Hanalei Valley Lookout is known for.