And Now For Something Completely Different

Stay In The Magic

Ten years ago, I started a blog entry that quickly spiraled out of control and grew so long that it became a book titled Stay In The Magic – A Voyage Into The Beauty Of The Grand Canyon (pictured above). As I went to publish it, I was exhausted with the process and wanted nothing more to do with it, so I never created a digital version for eBook readers, nor did I really share much of anything online about the experience.

Over the next few weeks, I hope to post a chapter a day that will represent each day of the trip down the Colorado River in the Grand Canyon National Park. This was a life-changing moment in Caroline’s and my routine and has played a role in many of our subsequent adventures.

Now that this is becoming a blog entry, it’s going to be extraordinarily long, with 85,000 words and about 300 images. I’ll be doing my best from day to day to keep up with transferring the text and images over here, but I’m not really sure how much work will be involved with this endeavor.

I’m still considering if, at some point, I’ll remove this from being out of sequence on my blog and redate these entries so they fall sequentially into where they belong; maybe I’ll have two copies among the 2,250 blog entries.

My big hope here is that I can avoid cringing at what I wrote so long ago, as I’ve never returned to its pages.

Discomfort

Wupatki National Monument in Arizona

Living somewhere doesn’t always make sense to those who weren’t on hand when the decision was made to do what was done. Maybe it was an economic decision or a defensive one; maybe it was proximity or distance that was desired. At some point, though, it is time to move on. The various people who took up residence here at Wupatki, starting back around 500 A.D., stayed for about 700 years before abandoning the site.

A young man I met a couple of years ago as a neighbor is moving on from Phoenix and heading back to his roots in rural Indiana with the hopes of finding something he has so far failed to discover. Originally a student at a local trade school, he soon figured out that he wouldn’t be as good a fit as he’d hoped, so he took up an apartment maintenance position where we live. Not long after trying his hand at this endeavor, he found he didn’t like it either, and so he quit. After two years in Arizona, it was time to try something new or old, depending on one’s perspective.

Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

Knowing that Chris had been in Phoenix for two years and had never gotten out of the city, I couldn’t let it stand that come February 1st, when he flies out, he would have never been to the Grand Canyon, so I asked him if I could drag him up north.

With only two weeks before he left, I didn’t have much time to plan for a better date, so it was now or never. The weather forecast suggested there were only two days over the next ten that predicted partly cloudy weather, which looked the best we’d get, so I chose the closest day, that being today, Thursday, January 16, 2020.

Chris Elliot at Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

If the snow on the ground wasn’t too bad, my plan was to take him on a short hike on the South Kaibab Trail out to Cedar Ridge. As luck would have it for Chris, the snow was pretty heavy, but there was a more important factor at work. Chris has some serious vertigo that stops him from going up to the third floor of the Desert View Watchtower. I hadn’t picked up on this outside when he didn’t get very close to the railing at the overlook.

I tried to get him to the top of the Watchtower, offering him assurance, but he let me know that it simply couldn’t happen as he was seriously uncomfortable. I knew at this point that regardless of the state of the trail, there was no way this guy was going to be able to stomach being out on the ledge of an unprotected narrow pathway cut out of the rocky cliffside we’d be hugging on the mile and a half walk out to the overlook.

Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

Chris was overwhelmed by the scale of the Grand Canyon, which was exceeding his expectations. He flinched more than once, even while we were driving when he caught sight of the chasm just beyond a couple of trees and a cliffside.

Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

Reaching Grand Canyon Village and El Tovar Hotel, in particular, it was time to get something to eat. As today was my treat and Chris, my guest, I thought I’d take him somewhere relatively nice, and the El Tovar dining room meets that criterion. Little did I know that this, too, was going to be greeted with discomfort. He’d never eaten in such a nice place and was wondering when he’d be asked to leave.

Some background is probably in order, and hopefully, I don’t cross the line of information that would intrude on anybody’s privacy, but this seriously nice and generous guy has been traveling a difficult road of uncertainty and his own fair share of relative bad luck. From estranged family members, homelessness, a short stint in the military, and some time in the Phoenix area that didn’t bring him to finding himself, he’s once again going to be looking for that thing that’s been elusive to his search.

Chris Elliot at Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

His own generosity was gifted to three fellow veterans who were also in need by sharing his apartment with them. His hope was that with someone else caring about their welfare, they’d recognize the gesture and that it would help them escape their own personal discomfort of trying to exist in the chasm of what can be an isolating American life where the economy is the space between, and community is like the snow on the ground: cold and soon thin or gone. Little seems to have come from his efforts, as it appears they benefited at his expense.

Now, without a penny to his name but in possession of a plane ticket, Chris will leave Arizona, having seen one of the seven wonders of the earth. His destination is home. It leaves people who know him asking why and trying to warn him about the dangers of going home where the ruin of what was will likely be in a greater state of decay. The distance of time doesn’t close the gap or work to create bridges to places that didn’t exist in the first place, but as a bit of a fatalist, he doesn’t know what else to do.

Chris is approaching 30 years old and is still wandering somewhere deep within, unable to see real options ahead. It seems that the distance to his other side is on a scale with the Grand Canyon. His vertigo and discomfort with situations right before him have him taking a step back to the relative comfort of what he knows. I sure hope his next move is into a future that helps him find what he’s looking for.

Katharina – Grand Canyon Day 2

Caroline Wise at the Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

Just try to get a teenager out of bed at the break of dawn, but for us oldies, just try to get us to sleep past the sun creeping over the horizon. If yer gonna have a rustic cabin on the rim of the Grand Canyon and the porch has rocking chairs, you’d be a fool not to at least use those things for a minute or two, so while I tried taking photos into the sunlight that weren’t working, Caroline sat here tanning the soles of her feet watching me dart to and fro looking for the perfect photo that never happened.

Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

Taking a walk over to the south-facing overlook offered up some nice views of the other side of the Canyon, but it wasn’t the same without our niece joining us, so we went back to the cabin and got her moving so she too, could witness how the sun floods into the Canyon and changes the way things look as the colors return to vibrancy.

Caroline Wise and Katharina Engelhardt at the Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

This photo, while in shadows, is great on my computer monitor at full resolution, but looking at it here on my blog on my notebook screen where I’m writing, it leaves a bit to be desired. Hopefully, enough of the two ladies can be seen to prove that this was, in truth, our place for the night at least once in our lives.

Caroline Wise at the Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

We had an early appointment in front of the main lodge building where the girls were going to be taken up the road to the North Kaibab trailhead to meet their mules. Caroline is seen here mounting Cobra, who will take her down to the Supai Tunnel. Should you wonder about my motivation to post this particular photo, let me help you understand that, yes, I’m putting this here because I think that my 51-year-old wife still has it!

Caroline Wise at the Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

Cobra and Caroline going where I cannot because these mules don’t like fat asses such as myself. At 235 pounds I’m 36 pounds too big for them to safely transport me on the narrow, steep trails. Sad that this is my truth, but then again, I’m 50 pounds lighter than I was four years ago. By the way, doesn’t Caroline have about the greatest smile ever?

Caroline Wise and Katharina Engelhardt at the Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

This was kind of like going whitewater rafting, where you get to the boat, get on board, and push off without much time to think about what you are going to do. The ladies weren’t on the mules for more than a few minutes before they were quickly following Kitty, the trail guide. I tried getting Katharina’s attention for a photo or two, but she was in the zone for riding and not posing. She’s right behind Caroline and Cobra here, riding Ellie.

Caroline Wise and Katharina Engelhardt at the Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

Aunt and niece in the saddle for a truly Western experience, heading into the Grand Canyon on a summer day.

Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

Down the dusty trail, they walked in single file as their cantankerous mules begrudgingly at times carried them forward. Going down, I was told things went quite smoothly.

Katharina Engelhardt at the Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

But on the way back up, it seems the extra strain on the mules had them farting up a storm of noxious gas. If their butts could carry a note, they might have been singing as they worked hard to carry their charges back to the corral, where cool water and more food would be waiting for them.

Near the Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

We’ve started heading home, and although it’s early, we can be certain that we’ll be encountering some heavy traffic as during the summer, it often seems like half the city heads north to escape the heat. With so many people up north, they must all get themselves back home in order to go to work on Monday, so we can’t linger too long.

Caroline Wise and Katharina Engelhardt at the Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

Even with time constraints, we can’t just speed past everything, so a stop at Lees Ferry was in order for Katharina to stand here at the point on the Colorado River where her aunt and I departed on our trip through the Grand Canyon nearly ten years ago.

Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

Maybe because it’s about 100 degrees (38 Celsius), the water, while chilly, didn’t feel all that cold today. This was the first riffle we passed back in 2010, and from my perspective, in the dory, it looked like pretty big whitewater to me. Today, I can see that it’s really nothing at all but a small disturbance, yet back then, we were starting a major journey into something large and unknown, kind of like our niece, who is moving out of adolescence and onto university before starting a career that will hopefully offer her many opportunities in life to explore some things she could have never imagined.

Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

Being on the Colorado River at the beginning of the Grand Canyon seemed like the perfect spot to set up for some horse photography, so Kat might take some very personal memories of this adventure.

Horse on the Colorado River in the Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

The results Kat achieves with her model horses in natural settings are pretty awesome. Great eye, Katharina.

Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

Navajo Bridge over the Colorado River is our last stop for photographs. From here, we need to focus on driving south, with a brief visit in Flagstaff at the Red Curry Vegan Kitchen for dinner, and then on to dealing with the heavy traffic that is the cost of traveling north during summer in Arizona.

Katharina – Grand Canyon Day 1

Glen Canyon Dam in Page, Arizona

After a two-day pause in activities, so I could catch up on a few things, including getting ready to leave last night for a drive north, we woke in Page, Arizona, this morning. The ultimate destination for the day isn’t this far north, but getting up here put us in a good location for where we are going.

Lake Powell in Page, Arizona

The decision was made by Katharina on exactly the path we’d take and that afforded us the opportunity to drive north up the western shore of Lake Powell. There wouldn’t be a lot of stops on the way as we wanted to spend more of our day in the park.

Caroline Wise and Katharina Engelhardt entering Utah

With our drive into Utah, Katharina has now visited every state in the four corners region. These states include Arizona, New Mexico, Colorado, and, of course, Utah.

Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

The meadows on the way into the North Rim of the Grand Canyon have always been beautiful spots to me, though impossible to adequately photograph. The extensive fire damage north of here was not so majestic, though it’s an obvious necessity for a healthy forest. Turns out that the nearby Kaibab Lodge is closed for the season due to an extraordinary amount of snow that damaged their property. Normal snowfall in the area is about 100 inches (254 centimeters), but this winter, they received over 200 inches or more than 5 meters.

Caroline Wise and Katharina Engelhardt at the Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

Visiting the North Rim of the Grand Canyon National Park today was very intentional. This time of year is tourist season and over on the other side of the Canyon are likely 100 times more visitors today than over here on the more remote side of the park.

Katharina Engelhardt, Caroline Wise, and John Wise at the Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

Here we are at the highest point in the Grand Canyon at Point Imperial, which towers over this park at 8,800 feet of elevation or 2,682 meters. For comparison, those who know the Zugspitze in southern Germany, its peak stands at 9,718 feet or 2,962 meters.

Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

Here’s a better view from Point Imperial, which is behind us in the photo above.

Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

No matter where you look in the Grand Canyon, be it near or far, the view is always spectacular. Even bad weather can’t harm the view, but what can diminish it are photographs. Regardless of how I try to capture images here that have already been taken 100s of millions of times before, there are no photos ever taken that will convey the impression one gets from standing near or moving into the Grand Canyon.

Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

Cape Royal as it looked to us this day. I suppose the best we can do with our photos is to create reminders of what something looked like to us at a particular moment. For those who were here at sunrise or sunset, they saw different skies and shadows that made their visit unique to them.

Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

Through Angels Window, and likely not visible in this lower resolution photo, you get a glimpse of the Colorado River deep below. Those who might be rafting down there today likely passed the Little Colorado River or are still hiking out of the canyon where its milky waters join the larger Colorado. As the crow flies, that stretch of river is about 50 miles south of Lees Ferry, where the majority of river trips begin.

Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

The cliffrose is in bloom, and if not for Caroline pointing it out, I might have only focused on the bigger picture and forgotten some of the details. I don’t always pay attention to what I say others should do, and I could bet a dollar that my wife wouldn’t disagree with that.

Caroline Wise and Katharina Engelhardt at the Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

Walking out on Angels Window, it’s easy to forget that below you is a giant hole because on each side of this narrow trail that is less than 6 feet wide (2 meters), the drop-off grabs your attention, letting you pay close attention to the path and nearly nothing else. Well, that is, of course, if you have any fear of heights because this outcropping demands you muster the strength to face a serious threat to the senses that are screaming at you to leave.

Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

Walking out here at Cape Royal, we learn that Kat isn’t feeling her best. Maybe she’s a bit dehydrated, or maybe it’s the fact that she’s nearly 1,000 meters or 3,200 feet higher in elevation than she’s ever been before. Her uncertain situation gives me a bit of panic as I’m not accustomed to a fit 19-year-old having stamina issues, and since she is scheduled to ride a mule into the Canyon with her aunt tomorrow, I’m a bit nervous about the potential of her passing out while on a mule walking down a narrow trail where a fall can easily mean death.

Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

We made our way to the Grand Canyon Campground, stopping at the General Store to have a bite to eat and see how our niece was doing. We’re counting on her situation to be a temporary thing and with her reassurance, we decide to go forward with our plans.

Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

After checking in at Grand Canyon Lodge, where we scored a rim-side cabin with a partial view of the Canyon (this is not that view), we immediately headed over to the North Kaibab Trail. As Caroline and Katharina were going to be riding down this trail, I wanted to get some impressions of where I might set up to get some photos of them and came to the conclusion that the trail would not be optimal for me to get more than a couple of photos of them. Oh well, we had a nice walk down, probably about a half-mile, but it could have been significantly less as it only took half an hour to get back out.

Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

Looking towards the South Rim about 200 feet (60 meters) west of where our cabin is.

Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

Our dinner reservation wasn’t until 8:15, but we managed to get a table earlier, and with food out of the way, we went out for a canyon rim walk into the sunset.

Caroline Wise and Katharina Engelhardt at the Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

This is the Transept Trail that connects the Grand Canyon Lodge area to the North Rim Campground. The easy hike is about 1.5 miles (2.5 km) and is letting us work off dessert.

Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

By the time we reached the campground, the sun was further down than this, and in the woods, it was nearly completely dark. Lucky us, an almost full moon occasionally lit our way down the Bridle Path that parallels the road back to our cabin. All-in-all the day was packed with experiences and impressions that I hope Kat can look back on with fond memories.

Christmas Day at the Grand Canyon

Grand Canyon National Park at dawn

While it might have pained Jutta to rise so early on freezing cold days, there’d be no missing sunrise in the Grand Canyon. There weren’t many photos taken and shared across these posts as on previous visits to the United States; we made every opportunity to capture the moments of my mother-in-law in every new place she visited. This trip was not only her last, but due to the hip she broke earlier in the year, her mobility wasn’t the best, so we just took things easy.

Caroline Wise and Jutta Engelhardt at the Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

Of the other photos of our day spent along the South Rim of the Grand Canyon, this is the only one that really mattered.

El Tovar Hotel at the Grand Canyon National Park

Just spending time with Jutta was enough and really, that was all she ever wanted anyway. Well, that and to laugh.

Grand Canyon National Park

As it grew late in the day, we took in as much of the sunset as we could before heading in for an early dinner and sitting around chatting on Christmas Day.