North Rim Grand Canyon to Capitol Reef – Day 1

Hot Air Balloons over Scottsdale, Arizona

Hmmm, balloons are floating overhead; that must be a signal to get in the car and race to the Grand Canyon. Sounds good to me, and so better late than never we spontaneously pack a bag and start the drive the north.

Navajo Bridge in Arizona over the Colorado River

These are the Navajo Bridges in northern Arizona. The bridge on the right was opened for traffic in 1929, and for many years, it was adequate to serve the purpose of crossing the Colorado River. As time went by, vehicles became wider, and although pedestrian traffic was forbidden on the original bridge, the temptation to stand over the middle of the Colorado and look into the canyon was too appealing. So in 1995, a second, almost identical-looking wider bridge was opened (on the left), and the old one was relegated to being a purely pedestrian bridge.

This is Balanced Rock on the way to Lees Ferry at the northeastern corner of the Grand Canyon National Park.

Caroline Wise standing at the confluence of the Colorado and Paria River at Lee's Ferry in the Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Lees Ferry is Mile Marker 0 in the Grand Canyon. It is here that white water rafting trips get underway. Caroline is standing in the confluence of the muddy Paria River where it’s entering the cold green waters of the Colorado right behind her. This is also the first rapid boaters encounter on their journey into the extraordinary world of the Grand Canyon.

North Rim Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

The view from the North Rim of the Grand Canyon is roughly 1,500 feet above the other side. Funny how it’s “just” 23.9 miles to hike across the canyon and over 200 miles to drive from side to side.

North Rim Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

It’s nearly impossible to see her in the pic but Caroline with her hands in the air standing over the hole in the rock. We were both out there a few earlier trying to grab a selfie from over our heads so I could show you how narrow the rock is that she’s standing on, but that didn’t work out.

Fredonia, Arizona

Had to stop and teach Caroline about Fredonia, not this one in Arizona, as much as the fictional Freedonia referred to by the Marx Brothers in their 1933 movie titled Duck Soup. My introduction begins with the song “Hail Hail Freedonia,” followed by a bunch of mumbling to the tune that rings in my head nearly 30 years after I first saw this movie.

Thunderbird Restaurant in Carmel, Utah

Well, this was unexpected to find in the state of Utah and begs the question, “Just who are the hos that make these pies, and are they Mormon?” Should you think you, too, would like to try some Ho-Made Pies, you’ll find them in Mount Carmel Junction, where the road turns off to Zion National Park.

We made it another 160 miles past this to Torrey, Utah, to spend the night at Austin’s Chuckwagon Motel.

Camping at Diamond Creek – Day 3

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Diamond Peak as seen in the rearview mirror as we leave our first-ever campsite next to the Colorado River.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

The feeling that we are driving in the Grand Canyon makes this exit a thrilling experience.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

We’ve been making frequent stops on the way out for extra photographs, so we might linger in the memories of this experience should we never again get to camp out in the Grand Canyon.

Cabin near Route 66 in Northern Arizona

There were the remnants of three or four elk carcasses near this old cabin from hunters who decided this was as good a place as any to butcher their kill; I’ll spare you the photos of bleaching rib cages.

Train off Route 66 in northern Arizona

Trains are kind of like forests; we’ll always pause to check them out and admire just what they are. One carries beauty and delivers oxygen, while the other carries freight and delivers stuff.

Ranch House Cafe in Ash Fork, Arizona

Time for some hot food here in Ash Fork on Interstate 40. Our stay out next to the Colorado on Diamond Creek was a calm respite away from most everything. The only thing missing was the opportunity to jump on one of the rafts and have a short ride downriver to a trail where we could have walked back to our camp. I’m not sure something like that even exists, but I can dream.

Camping at Diamond Creek – Day 2

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

It was early when we stumbled out of our tent to see a raft appearing on the river, followed by a few others. They were headed our way.

Caroline Wise in Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Grand Canyon Park personnel were the only ones on board. The first guy that paddles up asks Caroline to hold onto his raft a moment while he tends to something or other; according to him, Caroline is now an “honorary boat wrangler.” They’d been upriver dropping off some people to work on trails and were ending their winter rafting trip here at Diamond Creek, which turns out to be one of the main take-outs for people on river trips through the Canyon.

Caroline Wise and John Wise in Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

A couple of people in trucks showed up to help these rafters return to civilization, and so while they busied themselves, we tried to hide over here behind a rock and blade of grass, acting casual and not trying to be up in their business although we were curious as hell about every aspect of what they had just been doing and how they go about leaving the river.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

With the last raft pulling up to shore, the job of removing all the gear and then deflating and washing the rafts got underway. I don’t think they needed more than an hour to go from river to truck bed and head up the dusty road.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Shortly after the park personnel left, Lisa and Daniel left, too. But we are not alone; some bighorn sheep have come down to check us out and get a drink.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

This small ripple of a rapid and a larger one around the corner further down the river has the soundtrack serenading our stay.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Well, this looks a lot different to us from our arrival late yesterday afternoon. We are happy to sit here and watch the wispy clouds go by. With the sun on us, it’s nice and warm compared to the slight chill from earlier, but then again, it is January, and up on the rim, it is freezing.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

While we are not going anywhere else, we watch the world exist where there is much to find here and many things to explore while contemplating the entire system at work.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Another group of boaters is arriving – that was until they didn’t head for shore but instead just paddled by.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

We were expecting to find desert down here, and sure enough, there is plenty of that, but with all this water, there is also another living universe existing in parallel and probably symbiotically with the larger arid environment.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

I thought we might get bored just hanging out next to the river’s edge, but instead, we continued to see new things we’d not seen at first glance. Maybe our eyes came in looking to see routine and quickly accommodate our expectations of only seeing the surface of things, but the longer we are here, the more there is to see.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Another couple joined us riverside later this evening and a ranger from the Hualapai Tribe up in Peach Springs came in to check our permits; good thing we had dealt with that beforehand. A couple of other cars came to check out the view but left shortly after a quick look. With an ouch, we realize that the deer flies leave ugly and annoying bite marks; at least they’re not mosquitoes with their pesky whining sound. On second thought, I hate deer flies and would appreciate some mosquitoes instead.

Our campfire works to cook up our hot dogs, and we go into the evening much as we did the night before.

Camping at Diamond Creek – Day 1

Seligman, Arizona

World-famous Delgadillo’s Snow Cap Drive-In is a landmark on Route 66, and today, we were lucky enough to visit this historic corner of Americana in Seligman, Arizona.

Seligman, Arizona

We got to meet the 85-year-old owner, Juan Delgadillo, who played a few gags on us with straws and various other paraphernalia before his son took our order. We’d already heard that this was the place for a chocolate malted shake, and that’s just what we got along with a burger and some onion rings.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

The reason we were out here on the Mother Road “Route 66” is that we are stopping in Peach Springs on the Hualapai reservation for a camping permit before we head up the old rutted dirt road to the Diamond Creek campground on the Colorado River.

Caroline Wise and John Wise in Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

We’ve arrived at the Colorado River in the Grand Canyon, where Diamond Creek enters the river, and as we can’t afford to raft the river yet, we’ll have to content ourselves with sleeping next to it for a couple of days. Caroline had learned about this remote place and the only one where you can practically drive into the Grand Canyon while we were doing research for ScenicPath. ScenicPath was an effort from the two of us to build a travel app that would share some of the knowledge we’ve gleaned since starting this effort to travel so much.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

The perspective down here is so very different from looking down at the river from one of the rims of the Canyon. We have no real plan, haven’t learned if there are nearby trails, or even know if we’ll stay through tomorrow.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

It’s peaceful and quiet here, with just the sound of the river going by. Nobody else has set up camp or driven down here for a look at the river. Seems like we’ll be here alone tonight. Just as we were thinking that, a couple came driving down the dusty road. Lisa and Daniel were down here to camp for the night, too. We chatted a bit regarding their ambition to see a chunk of America before embarking on a journey somewhere in Asia to teach English as a second language and extend their time seeing the world before settling down. We exchanged emails before separating to allow each other to bask in the solitude.

Sky over Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Just before it starts getting dark, we get one last burst of color in the sky. We’ve walked around camp and the creek while watching how the changing light alters the appearance of the canyon walls.

Caroline Wise in Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Our tent, which is altogether too big for two people, is set up, and with the fire going, we took up sitting on a nearby rock for some dinner and stared into the flames as the constant sound of the river kept us company. Dinner was hot dogs for me and soy dogs for Caroline. We had brought firewood down here to the river in case there wasn’t any driftwood, good thing we did. We’d also purchased a long fork to cook the wieners on and with it, Caroline attempted to bake biscuits using it, with little success.

Monument Valley to the Grand Canyon

Monument Valley, Utah

Everyone should have the opportunity to drive into Monument Valley early in the morning because this place is simply otherworldly.

Monument Valley, Utah

Photos cannot share the scale or sense of being at a place like a visit can. While these quick weekend jaunts might see us effectively speeding through our environment, we are always thinking that it is better to have fleeting moments of these places than to stay at home to see yet another match between some sports teams that have no relationship to our sense of aesthetic reality.

Monument Valley, Utah

There’s a small sense of tragedy here when one thinks about how these monoliths stand above the floor of the valley due to everything that has fallen away and then realizes how, at some point, they will be gone forever. Fortunately, that won’t happen in our lifetimes or for many lifetimes to come.

Monument Valley, Utah

I’ve been near this location before, and I’ll return in the years to come, but never have I seen this rock lit in just this way that it was so easy to see a face.

Lake Powell, Arizona

After a couple of hours in Monument Valley, we drove south towards Kayenta, stopping for lunch at the Golden Sands Cafe (now closed) and then onto Road 98 towards Page and Lake Powell. You might notice that the lake is full!

Chief Yellowhorse Trading Post, Arizona

Because “Nice Indians” are way better to shop with for Indian tchotchkes than angry ones.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

That’s the Little Colorado Canyon out there. It joins the Colorado River in the Grand Canyon, which is where we are going.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

We are stopping in the Grand Canyon National Park because we can. It might be a bit out of the way if what we want to do is get home early, but as I said before, we’d rather collect these impressions and know that we’ve used our time to the best of our ability. This is the Desert View Watchtower, designed by Mary Colter and built in 1932.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Needed at least one obligatory scenic view of the Canyon.

Caroline Wise and John Wise at Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

And, of course one of us in front of it too. We made it to Hopi House over by the El Tovar Hotel in Grand Canyon Village before pointing the car south for our four-hour drive home. Must have been about midnight when we finally got home, but not bad that we were able to visit Sunset Crater, Wupatki, Navajo National Monument, Valley of the Gods, Monument Valley, Lake Powell, and the Grand Canyon all in one weekend.

Yellowstone with Jutta – Day 8

Caroline Wise and Jutta Engelhardt flying back to Phoenix, Arizona

While we didn’t incur the extra cost of flying into Twin Falls, Idaho, this time and instead had direct flights to and from Salt Lake City, Utah, and Phoenix, Arizona, I think it would have been better to simply drive. The 11 hours between the two cities by car is a long haul, but it’s also a beautiful stretch of the country down there, or so it looks like from the sky.

Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona from the air

The mighty Grand Canyon National Park, where we spent our honeymoon back in 1994 just six years ago. Someday, we hope to be able to visit the river that cuts right through it. We’ll be home well before 9:00 a.m., and I wish that we’d caught the latest flight out of Salt Lake so we could have spent one more night in Yellowstone. We’ll figure out this traveling thing sooner or later.