Snowy Arizona

A snowy icey Interstate 17 on the way to Flagstaff, Arizona

Most people, when they talk or hear of Arizona, immediately think desert. Well, not too far north of Phoenix, the elevation starts to climb fast, and today, on Interstate 17, on our way to the Grand Canyon, the road is icy with snow accumulating under cold gray skies. Our original plans had us leaving Friday afternoon for dinner in Sedona with an overnight about 25 miles (40km) south of the canyon rim, but poor weather kept us at home until first thing this morning. Shortly before arriving at the Grand Canyon, the clouds parted, offering up blue skies with a wonderous snow-dusted canyon.

Grand Canyon National Park in Winter

This was our first view of the Grand Canyon here at Mather Point. The drive up was treacherous, but the effort was worth all of the grandeur the canyon displays on these rare days when a visitor can witness the snow-dusted canyon walls under blue skies. We were well bundled up with warm clothes as the temperature was a chilly 35 degrees (2 Celsius) day and 11 degrees (-12 Celsius) overnight. The world’s greatest hot chocolate at the El Tovar Hotel and Restaurant also works wonders to help keep us warm.

Jutta Engelhardt and Caroline Wise at the Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

Jutta was prepared for this weather as Caroline and I suffered: it’s cold out here.

Grand Canyon National Park in Winter

But the views are spectacular enough that it’s worth enduring a bit of discomfort.

Grand Canyon National Park in Winter

Just a bunch of wow.

Jutta Engelhardt and Caroline Wise at the Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

Much to my surprise, had you told me those first years I knew her that Jutta is a great sport and loves to laugh, I’d have never believed you.

Jutta Engelhardt at the Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

I think it was Caroline’s intention to encase her mom in snow, but the old lady wiggled about too much, and getting the dry, cold snow to stick was problematic – wet snow might work better the next time. Of course, my idea wasn’t to turn her into a snowwoman but to simply nudge her off the canyon rim; who would have assumed that she did anything but slip? Well, she’s alive and kicking, so it may be that my best opportunity to “off” the mother-in-law has come and gone.

Fire at the North Rim of the Grand Canyon

Antelope Island at the Great Salt Lake in Utah

Attention: This post, like so many travel entries I made in the earliest days of blogging, was a mere one photo. Here in late 2022, I’ve been repairing them.

Something like this makes the 43-year-old version of me feel like a hundred lifetimes ago; where did the boundless energy come from that allowed us to push so hard? When we left Salt Lake City yesterday, we didn’t head south to bring us closer to home; we went north to better position ourselves for this trip out to Antelope Island. At this point, we are 731 miles (1,176km) from home, but no need to worry; we’ve done worse.

Antelope Island at the Great Salt Lake in Utah

Fielding Garr Ranch on the island was hosting a bunch of guys about this man’s age demonstrating engines that might have been in use when they were children. Not that any of them are over 100 years of age, like one of the engines that dates back to the 1890s, but you can see they’ve accumulated some years.

Antelope Island at the Great Salt Lake in Utah

The lake is disappearing, just as we should expect. When you consider that this is the last remaining puddle compared to what created it, it’s surprising that we still have the lake as it is. Not long ago, on planetary terms, Lake Bonneville filled this basin from Nevada to Idaho and down a good 200 miles with nearly 1,000 feet of water.

Caroline Wise in The Great Salt Lake in Utah

When the last ice age ended about 11,500 years ago, the waters of Lake Bonneville started to recede and evaporate, and the ground that Caroline was standing on started springing upward as the weight of the vast lake was disappearing.

Antelope Island at the Great Salt Lake in Utah

That’s Fremont Island out there.

Great Salt Lake in Utah

Those mountains and ones further south in Salt Lake City all show evidence of the old shoreline in the form of shelves and benches that were carved by the shore lapping at the base of the mountain range.

Sinclair Gas Station Elberta, Utah

Here we are at the intersections of state routes 68 and 6 because freeways are for people in a hurry. And while we still have 600 miles home from this point, there was still time to visit the old Sinclair Gas Station in Elberta, Utah, that will sell gas no more.

Porter Rockwell Cabin in Eureka, Utah

And if we are going to be out sightseeing, might as well go for broke and follow whatever interesting thing pops up on the map, such as this old Porter Rockwell Cabin in Eureka, Utah.

Porter Rockwell Cabin in Eureka, Utah

While not its original location, it is the original cabin of this pioneer and man with some claim to fame. You see, Porter was once bodyguard to both Joseph Smith and Brigham Young, though he already had the nickname “Destroying Angel.” How does one earn that name? It was said that Porter killed more outlaws than Wyatt Earp, Doc Holladay, Tom Horn, and Bat Masterson combined. You should Google the guy as he strikes an interesting impression considering he did cut his beard or hair for many years.

Sevier River in Delta, Utah

The Sevier River appears to have quite a bit of sediment running in it today.

Fort Deseret in Delta, Utah

Fort Deseret in Delta, Utah, is quickly returning to earth. Not much remains of its construction, having been built as a defensive structure in 1865 during the Utah Black Hawk War.

State Route 257 between Milford and Delta, Utah

We’re somewhere in Utah and will be for some time yet.

The Historic Milford Hotel in Milford, Utah

The Historic Milford Hotel in Milford, Utah, seemed to be slated for renovation, but as of 2022, when I’m adding this, I can find nothing to confirm that.

Caroline Wise and John Wise at Cedar Breaks National Monument in Brian Head, Utah

Heck yeah, we’ll dip into a national monument.

Cedar Breaks National Monument in Brian Head, Utah

1937 Log Cabin was initially built to serve as a ranger office and visitor contact point for bus tour passengers stopping at Point Supreme here at Cedar Breaks National Monument.

Cedar Breaks National Monument in Brian Head, Utah

Cedar because early settlers thought the nearby juniper trees were cedars, and Breaks because of the abrupt change in topography where the land just drops off to severe injury or death should you find yourself tumbling over the cliffside.

Navajo Lake in Kane County, Utah

Navajo Lake near Cedar City is fed by springs and is even better looking in person.

Fire at the North Rim of the Grand Canyon

What the hell is burning out there?

Fire at the North Rim of the Grand Canyon

Holy cow, it’s the tiny fire on the North Rim of the Grand Canyon we saw on Friday night.

North Rim of the Grand Canyon on fire in Arizona, view from the Bitter Springs Overlook on the road to Page

Two days later that small fire has become an 18,000-acre monster. On our way south going back home today, we stopped at the Bitter Springs overlook on the road out of Page along with a hundred other spectators to gawk at this extraordinary and tragic sight.

Grand View Overlook – Grand Canyon

I have to say it’s a sad day at the Grand Canyon when we cannot wake with the rising sun as though we are simply blasé about such things. Those moments when the sun first enters the canyon and similarly when the sun sets are where some of the most incredible views are found, and somehow we just slept in. Maybe I should blame it on the luxury price paid for a night in El Tovar.

Another luxury here at El Tovar is the Belgian hot chocolate.

Here we are once again at the Grand Canyon, simultaneously standing atop the bottom of an ancient ocean while looking into a canyon showing us over 700 million years of Earth’s history. This is Kaibab Limestone formed during the Permian, meaning that it was created in part by three extinction events, one of which was the mass extinction that paved the way for the Triassic period. Under our feet is not simply rock; there are fossils, many of them, and when you stop and consider things, limestone is largely the remains of corals and shells.

Animals have been a constant factor in the lands that would become the Grand Canyon, while it appears that the first humans entered the already-carved canyon approximately 12,000 years ago. The first European to see this place was García López de Cárdenas, who is even so fortunate to have a layer of the canyon named after him; his visit was in September 1540.

While Leonardo da Vinci was busy figuring out sedimentary rocks and how fossils are deposited before Cárdenas first observed the canyon, his thoughts would go unpublished for another century. Then, in the late 18th century, James Hutton, a farmer from Scotland effectively founded the science of modern geology that was subsequently codified by Scottish lawyer Charles Lyell in the 19th century. Fast forward to the 21st century, and 4 in 10 Americans believe this canyon was created by the invisible hand of God just 6,000 years ago, and I’d wager that a plurality of the other 6 in 10 Americans know they are walking on rocks, but have no idea of the history they represent or how they were formed.

Ignorance is not bliss, it’s a curse that hampers our ability to find awareness of place when we might be present to gather a richer experience. Imagine that the person you are with remained largely a mystery. I don’t mean the obvious stuff like they have limbs, skin, or a mind that allows them to talk with you, but for the first few years of your relationship, you simply looked and smiled at the person across from you because isn’t that what we do in the face of what is offered by nature?

This chasm may not be as large as the tragicomedy unfolding among us humans here in what is supposedly modernity. The more we know, the less we know.

We gain a clearer view of our place in the history of a planet and the evolution of nature, and instead of celebrating that achievement of knowledge, we cower in superstition and hide in ignorance.

It is as though the most epic storm of stupidity was moving over the landscape of progress with the intention of washing away the hope of intelligent life holding fast to our hurtling rock while the idiocy of the body politic sits by, cheering its imminent demise.

Then, on the other hand, the rains arrive in the distance, and the carving of majesty continues the process nature so diligently dedicates eternity to performing. How is it that humans on such a vast scale remain oblivious to their place within all of this?

I stare at these scenes. I return again and again, and still, they remain disturbingly complex as my mind attempts to play back the time machine of tectonic movement, accumulation, erosion, and the slow crawl of life over everything in front of me. I need these frozen moments captured in the photograph as they compartmentalize the infinity my eyes want to consume when I’m standing there in person. The frantic movement of senses disturbs the stillness that would otherwise be present, and so I must bring the Grand Canyon home with me, all of it.

This is the Grand View Overlook, and it, too, is now mine.

Okay, I’ll leave the Little Colorado River Canyon right here.

It was but a weekend, but oh, what a glorious escape into something rare.

South Kaibab Trail – Grand Canyon

Caroline Wise and John Wise on the South Kaibab Trail in the Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Here I am in February 2023, expanding this old post that wasn’t even 100 words long and only one photo when it was originally posted. If there was an itinerary that accompanied it, that’s long gone. From my log of travels, I can see we left Friday for points north. I have no idea if we stayed in Flagstaff, Williams, or Tusayan, but I do know we didn’t stay in the park because, at 8:00 a.m., I took a selfie of us in front of the Grand Canyon National Park sign at the south entrance. I’m certain we’d not have driven out there if we’d stayed in the park, so those other details are now lost forever. What’s not lost is that we had breakfast at El Tovar, but there wasn’t a photo worthy of sharing.

South Kaibab Trail in the Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

While a bit cold, we had beautiful skies for our first hike on the South Kaibab Trail here in the Grand Canyon National Park. Caroline wanted to try a new trail while I was opting for Bright Angel; somehow, her vote won the day.

South Kaibab Trail in the Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

It being January, we didn’t expect big crowds, but compared to the Bright Angel Trail, which is a thoroughfare regardless of the time of year because of its proximity to Grand Canyon Village and its lodges, there were moments of absolute solitude out on this comparatively little used trail, at least as far as my perspective is concerned. The pile of rocks at the turnaround of the trail marks the Ooh Aah Point Overlook. The first spot from which you have an open view into the canyon.

South Kaibab Trail in the Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Along the way, we bumped into a couple who seemed to be looking for any old excuse to share some big news. It turned out the question of marriage had just been proposed the night before. We were able to bond with them as we shared that this weekend, we are recognizing our 12th anniversary from when we were married over in Vegas on the 12th and subsequently spent our honeymoon right here at the Grand Canyon.

South Kaibab Trail in the Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Over the years, we’ve visited the Grand Canyon dozens of times, and yet, every time I encounter our photos and give in to thinking about our time here, I long to go back once more.

South Kaibab Trail in the Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

I know full well that nothing has changed here, but that doesn’t change the attraction. Maybe it’s like most all things we visit again and again: the more often we take the time to put ourselves in a place we’re already familiar with, the more we end up learning. It’s a sobering thought that one could visit the Grand Canyon 1,000 times and still have likely failed in attaining a sense that they know what’s out here.

South Kaibab Trail in the Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

The guide leading a group of others following her on mules cut a sharp figure with a sense of belonging to this setting, while the ragtag outfit behind her appeared a bit out of their element. Lucky for me, the guide’s passing right at this 180-degree turn in the trail became my best photo.

South Kaibab Trail in the Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

If it weren’t for the magic of auto-stitching software to assemble panoramas, photographing the Grand Canyon would prove rather difficult.

South Kaibab Trail in the Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Our hike only went as far as Cedar Ridge. By the time we reach the rim again, we’ll have finished today’s 3-mile roundtrip.

Scrub Jay in the Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Caroline’s sleuthing says this is a scrub jay.

Hopi House on the South Rim of the Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Our lodging this evening is just across from the Hopi House at the El Tovar Hotel.

Jutta On The Road – Day 16

Jacob Lake restaurant at the North Rim of the Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

Disclaimer: This blog entry wasn’t written until 17 years after the trip. It should be noted that it was a huge mistake to have not written it way back when. Sometimes, after writing so much about other days, it happens that at the time directly after the trip (or even during), I convince myself that the details are not that important. Years later, these details are that important, and pulling them out of foggy memories is difficult. The photos help and often leave clues, and then Caroline’s memories are usually far clearer than mine. With that said, here goes.

Here, we are approaching the conclusion of an incredibly ambitious, maybe overly ambitious, trip that took in 9 states over 16 days. Our overnight was at Jacob Lake Inn, where we snagged a cabin; we were about to have breakfast at their restaurant.

Jutta Engelhardt and Caroline Wise at the North Rim of the Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

Under incredibly clear skies, we are driving down to the north rim here in the Grand Canyon National Park, our 14th National Park or Monument of this trip.

North Rim of the Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

Talk about choosing the right day to be here.

North Rim of the Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

The south rim looks like it’s a stone’s throw away, while the San Francisco Peaks over in Flagstaff are about 60 miles away as the crow flies but about 200 by car.

North Rim of the Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

You might notice that we were not out here for sunrise, nor will we be on hand for sunset, which is all okay as there’s no small amount of exhaustion going on. Then again, this kind of visibility is outrageous.

North Rim of the Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

While this side of the Grand Canyon is not as busy as the south rim, how we calculated our arrival when absolutely nobody else was here will have to remain a mystery.

North Rim of the Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

As I said, no one else is here with us.

North Rim of the Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

Just us and this tree.

Jutta Engelhardt and Caroline Wise at the North Rim of the Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

As I stop to really look at this photo of mother and daughter, I’m realizing that there are more photos of these two together in the United States than were ever taken of them in Germany where they were born and Jutta still lives.

Vermillion Cliffs area northern Arizona

We are now on our way home; if only that were our home over there.

Vermillion Cliffs area northern Arizona

The Vermillion Cliffs area of our state of Arizona is one of our great treasures, but rarely, if ever, have I heard anyone else mention them.

Navajo Bridge over the Colorado River and the Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

From here, we’ll turn south and, in about 4 hours, be pulling into the driveway of the place we live. Here is the Navajo Bridge.

The Colorado River and the Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

Both the new and the old Navajo Bridges cross the Colorado River. The old one is now only used for foot traffic while foot traffic is forbidden on the newer road bridge.

So, as I wrote in my disclaimer in the previous days’ posts, these entries have been written between 15 and 17 years after the events of the days covered. There was indeed a two-year gap in finishing the writing and photo prep due to losing track of working on this sequence, with other things grabbing my attention, but now they are done. While lacking the granular details, I’d like to have reminisced with, at least we now have a comprehensive visual record with minor tidbits brought to the blog, which will allow a greater chance of us stumbling into the images than when they sit in storage on a hard drive. Writing today, I think back to when my mother-in-law still had the ability to join us for such grueling adventures and wish we could share these old memories with her, but she’s in assisted living these days, and cognitive issues limit her ability to follow what she’s looking it on a computer or phone screen. Another reminder to do the things with those you love when they can be fully enjoyed and then celebrated for years into the future.

Grand Canyon – Day 2

Sunrise at the Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

It’s barely light out here on the edge of the Grand Canyon National Park. We stayed the night at El Tovar, ensuring we’d be close to the rim in the morning.

Jutta Engelhardt, Caroline Wise, and John Wise at Sunrise at the Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

It’s a bit cold out here, even in May, though not so cold as on previous visits when we had to bundle up in blankets from our room to stay a little warm.

Sunrise at the Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

We’ve all seen these images before, maybe 100s of times, but when you are standing here in person, they take on an entirely new meaning. So, while my photos are not award-winning masterpieces of dramatic art, they serve us perfectly as reminders of the moments we were here to witness yet another sunrise over the Grand Canyon for ourselves.

Sunrise at the Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

The Canyon fills with light rapidly once the sun is fully over the horizon though pockets of dark linger deep within.

Navajo Arts & Craft stand near the Little Colorado River Canyon in Arizona

The dream catcher at the very center of this photo is destined for Jutta’s friend Linda back in Germany.

Walnut Canyon National Monument in Arizona

Having accomplished what we set out to do at the Canyon we visited Walnut Canyon National Monument near Flagstaff to bring Jutta to yet one more place of Native American history.

Within a couple of days, Jutta was on her way back to Frankfurt, Germany, and once again, I am simultaneously happy to have my time and privacy back and sad that someone who enjoys the United States as much as my mother-in-law can’t just hang out with us and see even more of the magnificence that defines the natural beauty of our country.