Ich war in Deutschland

John on board near Germany

How thick is your mask, and what does it cover? Are any of your features apparent to others? And I don’t mean your physical attributes; I’m asking about who you are inside. Are you a cartoon, an aggregate of elements culled from the media, a buffoon mimicking contrivances delivered to a shallow brain, or are you a reflection of conversation, love, experiences, and ambition? In our travels into the self and encounters with others, we present a variant of the person we anticipate someone else expects. In effect, we bow humbly and await the cues from the other person, trying to quickly learn who they might be.

If we are a narcissist we bypass this convention and squash the stranger with demonstrations of our own greatness instead of learning something of them and then lofting them to a position of importance. If we are fortunate, we might know something that could bind us together in a moment of symbiosis where this person just encountered is able to enthusiastically identify with us to explore what each other knows in common.

Sadly, many of these exchanges center around sports, weather, and television shows. These are the lowest common denominators of cultural exchange and amount to nothing more than trash swapped between strangers. We certainly cannot know all things for all people, but our curiosity is potentially boundless unless we are hiding behind the mask of fear, where we might expose not our face but our ignorance.

As for me, I’m flying directly into my unknowns, and while I may have been in a place where my lack of knowledge was vividly on display, I do not shy away from embracing new awkward situations, returning again carrying new curiosities and demonstrating the ignorance that is alive and well in my naivete.

Front Door of Jutta Engelhardt in Frankfurt, Germany

Names of things are temporary and fluid, even when made of steel. Everything decays; everything becomes something else somewhere in time. The only certainty we know is that things will change. However, the denial of such a basic tenet runs rife in our lives the older we grow. Wishes for things to remain the same are delusional aspirations of lazy minds afraid of potential futures. What does that future hold? Certain demise. How do we prepare for this ultimate transfiguration? Peel off the societal and self-conditioning masks, change the name on the door, and get out of your soul’s way to wander into the unknown.

Go ahead and lament the adaptability required for existence while simultaneously honing your ability to find something to complain about so you may lower the conversational bar with others who are equally disappointed in life and thus provide them a kindred spirit with whom to commiserate. You are now serving a purpose, reinforcing the tragedy of existence instead of helping celebrate optimism which is certainly more difficult to find in our society as it is hiding behind walls, doors, fences, and masks.

Medical Mask in Vending Machine from Frankfurt, Germany

If you see a mask in a vending machine and conclude that we’ve taken the pandemic too far, you have failed to see your own mask of anger that you’ve construed as being an authentic, real version of yourself. If you watch professional sports and find yourself intertwined with the statistics and celebrity of this or that manufactured bit of commercialism, you are wearing the mask of that identity just as you would be wearing a mask of nearly anything in which one could be interested regarding popular consumer society.

Take me for example. I’ve worn the masks of various genres of music, photographer, entrepreneur, film buff, cook, soldier, and a confused, angry young man (now old) afraid of my incompatibility with the masses. All the while, I was searching for authenticity, afraid that I was nobody without the camouflage I was adorning myself with. If we are unfortunate, we never grow beyond the fixed selections within the internal vending machine we set up within ourselves. We simply keep offering an endless supply of each item we’ve stockpiled.

Jutta's desk in Frankfurt, Germany

A sand dollar sits atop a piece of petrified wood. Postcards, Hopi pottery, a mouse figurine, bells, books, and opera glasses are among the things collected on various excursions into life. A photo of a father is nearby, as are toys from children and a painting one of them made while growing up. All of these things no longer have a home and are now abandoned as the previous owner left them here with no special instructions for their future. Apparently, they are no longer needed as the mask of the past must be relinquished to make room for the end. Death will not accept our facades; we enter naked and without any of those physical things we collected during a lifetime. When you ready yourself for the exit, you will only be allowed your memories, should they survive the tumult of growing old and the smiles you can bring to the party.

Jutta Engelhardt and John Wise in Frankfurt, Germany

You will not find your mother, friend, wife, husband, or child in things that they’ve possessed. You will not find them in the gifts you’ve offered. Your mother has only ever been a part of your heart and mind. If you seek her where she cannot be found, you will embark on a quixotic journey that has no end. If you are searching for the love you believe is embedded in the past you might have missed out on finding love from her in the moments she tried making that available. Her love was only to be found when you discovered her inner child she kept alive because, as an adult she was unrequited in her feelings due to the hurt of a childhood that was only partly resolved late in life.

Maybe she couldn’t give to others from her heart, though she wanted that desperately, because the pedantic woman, who needed to compete with ideals not her own, stymied her along the way. She needed others to love her first and accept her in all her faults because that’s what her mother denied her. She did not learn by example, and for that, she was emotionally crippled. Your mother is a friend of mine I hardly know, but I do know her deep, heartfelt love for her children and her appreciation for her friends and family who love the woman who’s been a part of our world. She will never be able to do right by others as her goals and dreams for them were hampered by self-doubt. If you want to find the greatest memento your mother can ever give you, just listen to her, allow her to be weak and childlike, and when you are done just being in her presence, hug her and tell her that you love her. Now walk away and know that this is the greatest gift of shared love you can offer this sweet old lady and the best memory you will ever carry with you.

Frankfurt, Germany

Try it on, distort it, mix things up, and make people ask questions about what any of it means. Nobody has all the right answers for any of us, but it never hurts to learn where others have been and where they might be going. So we must stop, say “hi,” move away from our own bias, and accept the bold differences of those operating on their own unique frequencies.

Euripides is credited with saying, “Question everything. Learn something. Answer nothing.” Twenty-five hundred years later, James Patterson wrote, “Assume nothing, question everything.” In these intervening two and a half millennia, while many an invention and convenience have been brought to our lives, the wisdom found in change has often been eschewed out of fear that anything that disrupts tradition will ultimately bring collapse. Yet, nothing remains as it seemed. Those things that bore gravity for other generations can fade and must be let go of. If we choose not to acknowledge the differences, we obsess about an ideal that never existed in the first place. This is when we drag the mask up over our eyes, fail at asking the relevant questions, and suffer the ravages of being stuck in time.

St. Elizabeth's Church in Marburg, Germany

Nobody should sit in judgment of others, nor should those who might observe you hold sway over you exploring yourself. The majority of humanity lives within the ethics and morality that arise out of love. Teaching us not to murder one another is unnecessary because that type of transgression is not an instinct the majority of us are born with.

On the contrary, we need to teach one another the importance of self-love and that there’s an emotional safety net found in community and purpose. When community and family have been dissolved by the pressures of denying the unique characteristics of an individual on life’s pilgrimage into discovery, we as a society break the will to learn, replacing it with the ego of harm. This is not good and evil; this is cruelty becoming hate.

My Temporary Desk in Frankfurt, Germany

This blog entry, if not evident to you yet, is a hodgepodge of thoughts. It started as an idea in my last few hours in Germany. I assembled one favorite photo from each day of my visit as an index for an emergency go-to post I was going to write if I got bored en route from Frankfurt to Denver, but it turned out that my post titled “The Exit” kept me busy the entirety of the flight. Upon my return home, I had this potential entry with 36 images and no longer felt it was going to be what it was intended to be, nor did I feel like deleting it. So, I grabbed the unpublished musings of half a dozen other posts penned in Deutschland and pasted their contents into this document. The trick of this exercise is to come up with a coherent (within my definition) thread to tie things together.

Maybe if I were to take up smoking again, I could find what I need to start writing this epic entry that lies buried under a shroud of fog. I know the words are within me, and occasionally, I’m able to sequence them into half-meaningful snippets from which, upon reflection and some distance from when they were fresh, I can catch glimmers of promise. But glimmers are not what I’m looking for; I’m in need of raging torrents of flow that threaten to deluge my fingers with unmanageable streams of dramatic meaning I will ultimately drown under. But where does one tap those waters? They cannot be a side effect of cigarettes.

It has occurred to me that I cannot race about and hope to snag a word here and there. I must sit down, planting myself where my center of gravity has the greatest balance with the earth, and then I can write. Write what? Great things, that will be where I start and go rapidly downhill from there. First up, clear the mental plane. I’m once again where I was a couple of years ago when I encountered Horst Fischbach (a fictional character I wanted to explore). Little did I realize that I had only recently finished some travels and was taking my first pause of constant novel stimulation that comes with being in new places. It was unbeknownst to me at that time that this was taking place because I was still somewhere other than home. Being between home and active travel afforded my mind the moment of rest, and although I wasn’t in the desert, I was somewhere familiar enough that I didn’t have the pressing need to be on the move.

Now, after being away for five weeks, the urgency to immerse myself in my environment has taken a pause, and the instinct returns that being quiet also helps me find words. While traveling, I use my frantic pace to push the moments of experiential sights and sounds onto paper, as my awareness of the temporary nature of fleeting impressions has already taught me that much of what was taken in will just as quickly take leave. The larger memory that, at one time or other, I had visited a place, a rich experience I’d basked in, without many of the details noted photographically and verbally via the written word, would be but a pale shadow.

Impressions without strong reminders would allow my collection of me to erode and decay while I forget what I was allowed to construct within me. Doesn’t this hold even more true when we consider that we make incredible efforts to be subject experts in our jobs but are not demanding we become experts of the self? This could be compared to living in a different home with different furnishings every day; there would be no markers of familiarity on a day-to-day basis. Take the church, its stories, images, and iconography: it is the preservation and continuity of those things that have allowed it to survive for centuries. To remain in the minds of humanity for thousands of years, a cadre of caretakers pull the memories and rituals forward. In this sense, I am the priest of John keeping the Church of Self alive in which, on the days I reflect in the prayers of writing, I remember who I am.

On the day I wrote these lines, I was sitting in a pew at a Temple of Bread, listening to the sermon of an Afghan man working through his version of German. The organ had been replaced by rustling bags being filled with various rolls and pastries that allow parishioners to return a bit of the holy sacrament to their homes to continue traditions that remind them of themselves. We call this breakfast. The choir was faint as the leaves were disturbed by a light breeze, thus not overwhelming the rest of the service. Communion for the congregant is finished after the blessing of “Sechs Euro Fünfzig” is spoken.

Enough of the observations in the bakery; it’s time to feast on the flesh of God. In some small way, as I accept this offering of nourishment, I consume my older self. I have no way of knowing how and where the waste I’ve left behind has been recycled into what I’m eating today. The cycle of recovery and redistribution has occurred many times over the previous 58 years since my first defecation when my fecal matter was used by a plant or animal to nourish something in the food chain before ending up on my plate again to repeat the process of returning what I am to the earth and consequently, it returning to me.

Do not attempt to tell me that this is nothing but food that is not imbued with God nor John. You will not convince me that it is lifeless, inanimate, dead matter. When a thing no longer consumes energy, it must have perished, and yet here it is, ready for the minions of flora thriving in my gut to accept it, thus beginning the slow process of harvesting its vital energy in order for me to live. These things that existed in a life cycle were put into a state of suspended animation, awaiting their destiny. Oh, but wait, not only were they processed, packaged, and prepared, they must now be masticated, digested, and excreted before other life in the form of bacteria process this product I no longer have a need for into yet more food and will once again feed a system in perpetual motion.

Similar to the cycle of repetition I reference above, I hear, create, and consume words that the microbiome of my mind will masticate, digest, and excrete for the reader to consume. My thoughts then become the written feces others will use to nourish their own mind. At the end of these locutions, the reader is gifted not merely with shit but with a richness in diet that will sustain the health and well-being of their own imaginations. Of course, I must take into account that the recipes I use are archaic in their long-winded form and use exotic ingredients not suited for all palettes.

What I offer is not for the junk-food-minded but for the gourmet, the devout, or maybe just my fellow sanctimonious zealots who revel in the high ideas that we are humans and not blades of grass fertilized with the manure of sheep.

For weeks, months, years, and decades, I have been searching for the most diverse oblations that feed all elements of my soul and body. I am not one to subsist on fodder, though as quickly as I wrote such a half-truth, I must admit that I, too, have consumed and will continue to do so, such foul materials that pollute the trough at which we lap up the fat sugary treats that bloat our being. While I aim to be a God within my own church of me, I do recognize the limits of my mortal being and accept I am with faults.

The wind blows, the choir offers a hymn, a child cries, that’ll be “Sieben Euro Zwanzig.”

The cigarette I considered was wholly unnecessary as the thurible of the bakery offered an aroma that wafted over me, alighting my imagination and propelling my fingers to do the peristaltic bidding of a mind trying to purge words that were no longer sustaining me. Time to walk through the narthex of what’s next here on another day of our Lord.

Gelnhausen, Germany

Excuse me, but your house appears irregular with lines that are not perfectly parallel, and what’s up with the brickwork as part of your facade? I can’t understand why symmetry wasn’t at work here, and is it an optical illusion that there seems to be a kind of angled point where the walls meet behind the drainpipe? Maybe this was two units in a previous age? Obviously, the wooden door in the center is no longer used. With the plants on the steps, it’s not very inviting to knock on that door, so the door on the right has to be the entry.

I’d wager that the inside is as charming as the outside, and with three floors of such delight, this is what you might expect for what would cost you at least $1 million. Now imagine this house that is likely about 500 years old or 90 years old in human years (yes, I’m taking license with the dog-years analogy) was representative of how we saw our fellow elderly humans. The unique appearance lends character to a community of cookie-cutter people, and instead of pushing aside these wonderful attributes of aging, we valued them to have greater desirability than the bland new buildings down the street.

People, though, are not real estate, you exclaim. So, maybe you try to consider that the experiential landscape of people can often possess a breadth of wisdom larger than any house. Now ask yourself what is the value of that structure. Once you take this into account, you will see the priceless nature of the history and artifacts hidden behind the old walls that have been there forever. But a person is not furniture you can capture and keep in a room; you must know them and find a place for their being in your heart and mind. The fact is that only those with whom we share deep experiences gain access to our innermost thoughts and memories. It is not enough to admire the facade, even one that is new and shiny, without anything of value beyond the front door, and yet this is exactly what we do when we put youth on a pedestal.

Jutta Engelhardt in Frankfurt, Germany

How does the young person who’s not yet gained maturity handle the expectations of a society that wants to see our dreams and ambitions realized by them? Our own failures at being whole people are shrugged off due to circumstances we refuse to acknowledge, meaning we didn’t try to overcome ourselves, our mistakes, and our unevolved biases. Then, with such personal and societal missteps, we want to burden our children with accomplishing the impossible tasks that are made more intractable due to our failure to tackle the truly hard work of managing our place on this planet and with each other.

Our children and young adults are being victimized by the oversized aspirations we have for them. They, too, are uncertain, frightened human beings, guided by adults who had to stop caring or lose their minds to the Sisyphean task of overcoming their own baggage. Society is creating impossible parameters for each generation that often culminate in personal defeat. With our current intellectual and machine intelligence, we are likely on the verge of breaking this yoke of emotional terror, but such a monumental task will require a reinvention of purpose that might only arise in the ashes of a catastrophic breakdown of community unless some kind of guide inspires people to awake to the harm they commit in the name of wanting to do good.

Torsten "To" Kuehne in Frankfurt, Germany

Look at yourself; look at your former self in the mirror after taking a snapshot of who you were yesterday and a lifetime ago. Are you clear to yourself? Do you know who you are looking at and who’s looking back at you? Are you one and the same? Did you become the image of who you thought you would be? Chances are, the reflection is out of focus, and at best, you can see glimpses of moments that stand out of the millions you could have captured while in the world of experiences.

Discovery is a slow process that requires the explorer to gather the tools and resources to be able to offer meaning and documentation to what’s been found. How do we demand the profound from those who are new to life while we hide behind a false self-confidence that is really nothing more than another mask hiding our own failures?

Alte Oper in Frankfurt, Germany

Architecture demonstrates the strength of the individual and the community. While humans cannot survive themselves and their personal weaknesses, our buildings stand as a testament that our ancestors and contemporaries were able to overcome the fragility of mortality while their human form crumbled in time.

But we all know that the greatest of monuments will also fade as the march of history grinds forward. As those constructions turn to dust, we either choose to rebuild or remove and create anew and so it must be with the structures (culture) held aloft in our group sense of progress. Our minds are architectural constructs pulling forward histories that, at times, must evolve to recognize new building methods that supersede the primitive ideas that once worked for us.

And what about when war claims our sense of permanence? Like the bombs that destroy architecture, we require artists, thinkers, inventors, and other creators to disrupt, derail, and effectively bomb our complacency. Then, in the newly constructed palace, to our perseverance, we host a creation that celebrates our rediscovered imaginations with which we can create something from nothing.

Boris Hießerer and John Wise on Heiligenberg near Heidelberg, Germany

This then poses the question, how do we find that which was lost in the nothing, and how do we share with others that exploration in the realm of the void will potentially deliver profundity?

That is a really difficult question as it deals with a rare earth metal called curiosity that few of us have found. The masses use raw and visceral information as a bandaid for minds incapable of assembling the bigger picture where the universe of infinity is unfolding. Desiring to be consumed by uncertainty, recognizing our own limitations while putting on display our awkward stumbling into ignorance shows our vulnerable and mushy inner selves. This is not a persona most will feel comfortable inhabiting.

Deep exploration of imagination and cultivating the intellect can be a long road into the suck, but like Army Reserve Colonel Austin Bay is known to have said, “Embrace the suck.” You, your family, your friends, and those in your community are not your careers. You are not intrinsically a police officer, doctor, barista, coder, or plumber, nor are you a mother, father, son, or daughter; these are all amorphous roles that should evolve while supporting the emotional and creative development of those around you.

Stopping at any age to dwell in the familiar is the equivalent of dinosaurs stuck in tar. Sure, you can stand still, and if food is near enough, you can eat and pretend you are not doomed, but to the outside observer, you are going to die right where you stand sooner than you might think. This death in our era is demonstrated by the cessation of curiosity to know and explore those things that suck and are difficult. Sure, I can watch you stand there insisting your life is great as you sink deeper, or I can take inspiration from those things in motion and change all the time. I choose to be in motion, and I’m open to change; my curiosity remains at my beckoning to show you just how little I think I know.

Drawing by Caroline Wise née Engelhardt from 1977 in Frankfurt, Germany

My wife and best friend dropped this out of her imagination when she was nine years old. It was 1977, and her curiosity was such that abstraction all of a sudden jumped out of her consciousness. I know this because the body of paintings she created before this was often focused on horses, people, and landscapes.

Two years ago, she and I were in Dubrovnik, finishing a journey through Bosnia, Montenegro, and Croatia. We were contending with a landscape previously unknown to us as we rafted and kayaked through a different kind of abstraction where food, language, and paths traveled were unfamiliar. As I write this, it’s 1:15 in the morning where she is in Arizona, and 4 or 5 hours before she’ll wake. I smile as I think of her here in Frankfurt at 10:15 a.m. and bask in how her influence, even while she sleeps, affects my waking hours on the other side of the earth. She may be dreaming in abstractions right now, and I might be a part of her exploring restless brain that never stops working to digest the vast diet of things she brings in. What ties this together is that we both have a curiosity about the other and a raging desire to feed imaginations that still feel insatiable and often as innocent as the one that painted the image above.

What we are able to construct on the canvas of our lives is not a lot more than splashes of paint that will fade in time, but at the moment we commit our imagination to action, we make the statement that this was who we were at this point in time.

This triggered something that now reads so very obvious in my mind but didn’t prior to the realization. We are no longer focused on the repetition of encountering ourselves, our environments, or our community on a daily basis. We are in motion and in the perpetual hunt for novelty as though the newness of everything will deliver something meaningful to us. This is wrong.

It’s all so apparent now that we gave up small communities, relationships in tribes, churches, and even our families so we could remain in perpetual motion. We are breaking ourselves into something we are not.

We are traditions and familiarity, except modernity doesn’t allow this archaic form of humanity to coexist when consumption rules a culture on the move.

I think of this as, once again, I found myself writing what I thought were inconsequential ramblings of a man finding self-importance in listening to more of the same. I return to churches again and again, looking for the voice of a God that is supposed to be present, and I travel with the hopes of discovering the place that satisfies my soul in ways that will transcend my sense of being lost.

I’m lost because I no longer hear the stories and traditions of my people, I no longer live with a familiar group of others, and I certainly don’t pray on a day-to-day basis. But somehow, I have awoken to the obvious flaw that my need for novelty has been my foil the whole time.

My writings are always iterations of things I’m certain I’ve said before but with a slightly new spin that I hope might illuminate a thought I’m failing to capture. There it was, staring right at me in all of its redundancy. I’m writing to connect my inner tribe of experiences so I can better know who I am and the culture to which I belong.

While this modern landscape of John is vast, I can, when curious or in need of something to ground me, return to the images and stories of that time my wife and I went to the Balkans, rafted the Colorado River, or revisited Oregon for the 8th time. Our village elders cannot share the experiences that were had in the past because we no longer live in that type of community. We have to be our own elders, but how does one do that when a billion other experiences compete in a hierarchy of what’s important to a human?

We, all of us that make up the “we,” must turn ourselves into storytelling machines that also capture the art of what our eyes have seen in nature and from our experiences, travels, and various other moments. This idea of blogging is the continuity and subject matter expertise of self, family, and friends that can put humans back in the center of their narrative-based universe.

Blogging is in so many ways, similar to prayer. We repeat our prayers to affirm our commitment to God and the knowledge that has been given to us about our maker. School and careers demand the same attention to becoming subject matter experts, but when it comes to that kind of familiar constant relationship with you and your experiences, they are mostly lost fragments scattered between elements of Game of Thrones, a basketball game, the divorce of Kanye and Kim, drunken escapades in Vegas, and a jingle from an ad that ran during an episode of Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles.

Laundromat in Frankfurt, Germany

Restoration and rehabilitation might seem normal for cars, paintings, homes, clothing, and antiques, but how many of us are aware of the need to shove our own minds into the washing machine to rid ourselves of the accumulated grime and stench that accompanies heavily used items? It’s okay to rebuild, patch, clean, and repair the aging jalopy in your head that’s been powering you through life. It may not be new again, but you’ll likely feel better about its appearance and the tune-up that allows it to run a bit better.

Stains and dents are too often considered the price of use, but with a little effort, they can be cleaned away or repaired. The stains and dents I refer to are our biases, silly beliefs in conspiracy, and continued reinforcing of mantras of fear. Education, reading, travel, adopting new hobbies, and bringing in new music, food, and art can act as the bridge to the daily bathing of the inner self that’s always at risk of ossification.

Sunset on the Main River with city skyline of Frankfurt, Germany

The sun comes and goes. The day gives way to night. The waters that ran through here are long gone, replaced by the water from elsewhere. The memory of these things creates a continuum, and so it is with our own memories and our ideas of self. But what if tomorrow’s sky looked exactly like yesterday’s and all the days before that? Our anticipation of discovering a new day would likely be diminished. What if tomorrow’s mind looked exactly like today’s, yesterday’s, and all the days before that? Well, that’s what many of us live with. If that can be called living.

You and I are not permanent and should not strive to be the carbon copy of the person we were the day before. Let the fresh waters run through you, and new clouds form before they dissipate to become clouds for someone else to enjoy. Our imaginations and expectations need to remain in flow if they are to continue their healthy roles in our lives. When the scenes of nature and self are changing, we can be gifted with the surprise of spectacular sunsets and journies into places unimagined that fill us with the sense we are witnessing the awe-inspiring.

Jutta Engelhardt in Frankfurt, Germany

The sun falls on your face, and some of that light that bounced off of yours spills onto mine. A smile spreads from you to me. Will your wisdom also find its way to me? I sit here outside in the pleasant weather of the pleasant city with equally pleasant company, but am I here to be with you, or am I here to entertain you and distract you from your loneliness? It is not guilt that brings me to you; I cannot gain favor by offering you my time. Either our shared moment is mutually beneficial, or one or both of us will resent another uncomfortable encounter where our minds are preoccupied with the desire that we’d rather be anywhere else.

Instead, the two of us bask in amazement that someone else cares enough to spend part of a perfect day with the other. At the crossroads of friendship and respect, we became equals, although we may be worlds apart. What was it that created this possibility in the first place? How does an in-law bridge the divide that seems common amongst us adversaries? Curiosity was the answer that brought us together. Not having all the answers for each other but a willingness to explore the world and possibilities paved the road for us to learn about our commonalities. And so we sit next to the soothing river on a perfect day in a pleasant city and continue to share the wonder of what can be experienced when we have others around us.

Snail drawing in shop window of Frankfurt, Germany

Even when others we love or care for are not in our immediate proximity, hopefully, they have a place in our hearts and memories. Maybe I’m a bit pollyannish, but I try to see some positive contribution from the many people who’ve passed through my life, even those I’m no longer fond of. Somehow, everyone I’ve ever known has contributed something that helped me become a better person, and I don’t mean just those people I’m still friends with.

This “Yummy Cinnamon Snail” was a trigger for me to smile at my wife, who was 10,000 kilometers away, when I glanced at the drawing in the window of a small cafe on the streets of Frankfurt, Germany.

The threads of connectivity run everywhere for me as I can’t seem to cut the ties between those I know, those I don’t know, and those who hate me. From Scott H., Adam M., Jonathan R., Kirk M., Jochen L., Jack P., and certain family members, there is no love lost from their point of view, but the magnanimity I feel just goes on and on. If I tore away all the ugly threads that create the fabric of John, my tapestry would have gaping holes where mistakes were made.

Selfishly (this might have contributed to the breakdown of friendships), I want to be a whole person, and while I can be the first to admit I’m flawed, I know that if I can recover from my stumble, I might be able to keep on smiling. The alternative is to grimace, grow bitter, and want to hold accountable all those who wronged me. Instead, I’ll just grab a new skein of yarn (an opportunity to gather experience) and get busy tying it in knots to the waistcoat of me (I don’t knit or weave unless I’m referring to my writing).

Klaus Engelhardt and John Wise in Frankfurt, Germany

Where’d this come from? No, I’m not referring to the man next to me in the photo as a thing, but that, after knowing each other for more than 20 years as distant in-laws, we are starting to make some connections that move us away from de facto relatives to the beginnings of a friendship. I think.

Time can be the rarest commodity for those living with intention. Just as one doesn’t travel to New York City, London, or Tokyo for the first time with the express purpose of languishing in a hotel binge-watching Star Trek with McDonald’s being delivered to their room, we shouldn’t be so cavalier to waste our precious moments. Klaus and I only now have been able to share some time together and, while in all honesty, we may have little in common in some regards, we both love being outside, walking, and biking. Well, that’s enough of a start to lend intention to exploring where this might go.

Back to what I mean about living with intention. I do not want to live an accidental life where remote control, lack of a plan, or too many video games erase the opportunity to find meaningful encounters with discovery and knowledge. I can’t acknowledge my intention without giving a nod to my selfishness as I cherish my moments when I can fall into learning to cook a new cuisine, read up on something like the Song of the Nibelungen, explore functionality in a synthesizer, or bone up on my nascent skills in a piece of software I’ve been promising myself to dig into. Travel plans have to fit in this mix, too, because if dreams of future destinations didn’t live an active life in my imagination, I’m afraid I’d simply adapt to standing still.

And so, I live with active intention. Don’t construe that I’m perfectly adapted to this ideal because I’m by no means perfect and all too often find myself squandering my time, but by eliminating certain potentialities such as tossing my attention into professional sports, television, or video games, I know that those are hours that I’ll have to fill with other activities. Here’s where my selfishness shines best: I don’t care about the weather, superhero action films, comic books, anime, football (American or European), some temporary influencer or celebrity, psychopath of the day, or a new model of car, appliance, or device. I do care about sharing my time with others who will challenge my many facets of ignorance, walk with me, or take my imagination into a real story from out of their own experience.

On the Nidda River in the Frankfurt area of Germany

Canoeing a small river in a lush green environment or taking a 10-mile stroll along its banks is an antidote to staying in place, but so is reading a book as long as that’s occasionally done somewhere other than the same chair at home. Break out of stasis, shake your tree, and if the path ahead is blocked, get busy finding an alternative route or tear down the impediment so you might better find flow ahead. When life blocks your forward motion, you might need to learn how to portage. Of course, this presupposes that you’ve found the way to break out of whatever prison you may have been encumbered by in your early years.

If, as Jacques Lacan says, we really are the relationship with the other and not the ego of a narcissistic reflection seen in the mirror, then where do we go after reaching the point of serving the other? Do we begin the work of learning how to give to the many? Is this where we become the captain of the ship instead of the passenger, a participant instead of an observer? On epistemological journeys down the river of life, it is up to each of us to determine where we are going.

Jutta, Friedhelm, and Helene "Lenchen" in 1941

But sometimes, we never break out of the mirror and thus lose ourselves, blind to the torment of being a broken shell in an emotional prison. The core desire to be loved is not being satisfied as we look at our reflection and try to understand why we are unloveable by the people most important to us when we are so young. The denial of a parent’s love has consequences that extend to our final moments on earth. No matter how we try to arrive at the person who might meet the criteria for finding acceptance, it is the nagging voice of disapproval or rejection that haunts us to our end.

My mother-in-law Jutta, the young girl on the left, was a bitter woman when I met her so many decades ago. As I grew to know her a little better, she offered glimpses of this girl still living within her. Today, she is nearing her final days, and with me now able to fully appreciate the mother to my wife, I can say that when she passes, I’ll truly miss her.

Jutta was born a few years before World War II in Nazi Germany. By the time she was four years old, her country invaded Poland, and it would be five years later in that same land that her brother Friedhelm would die as a soldier. This photo was taken shortly before he went off to war. Their grief-stricken mother would never really recover from that loss, and in those dark days, she burdened her daughter by telling her she wished it had been Jutta who had died and not her beloved son. Upon turning ten years old, this young girl transitioned to the post-war reconstruction period, where her country struggled to discover a new identity. Her mother remained deeply entrenched in grief, ensuring that my mother-in-law would never live in confidence.

A self-righteous mother, a father removed from his career due to his Nazi affiliation, a deceased brother, and hard times were the reality Jutta would need to contend with. During university, on a path to becoming a doctor, Jutta got married, putting her career on hold. Children pushed that further away, but within just a few years of Caroline’s birth, the marriage fell apart, and Jutta was alone with herself once more. Depression remained her bitter companion.

While the tragic damage done to a young girl is viscerally displayed here, a parent can steal a child’s hopes and desires for love from even relatively innocent transgressions with the same outcome, leading their offspring to doubt their value to their mother or father. Yet, we do nothing as a modern society to help guide others into maturity and confidence so that before entering romantic relationships and bearing children of their own, they have at least some minor semblance of parenting skills.

For a short time in the early summer of 2021, I was the occupant of my elderly mother-in-law’s small apartment in Frankfurt, Germany. I was there to complete the task of sorting the artifacts of her life and trying to dispose of as much as I could without unceremoniously throwing her effects into the dustbin. It was here that I began to understand my sister-in-law and why she had requested I come over to lend a hand dealing with the clutter. All around me were the things that helped shape Jutta and tell some small part of the story of this woman, mother, and friend. These things then become the embodiment of a person who was and is loved.

Many of those personal treasures in her dwelling are nearly as old or older than Jutta, and upon those pieces rest her other collected belongings. This temple to her past ensured that she was always surrounded by memories of a time she was afraid of losing touch with. These items represented to her a hidden bridge to finding the love that had been lost along the way. Stored at the edges and within these keepsakes of Jutta’s existence are mementos that delighted her and kept her company in the many lonely hours she whittled away, trying to understand her anguish of needing to exist.

My mother-in-law was never the reason for this pain or her guilt of feeling she’d somehow done wrong by everyone in her life, but no one was ever going to convince her of that. Her guilt was the one thing she could own outright and was her deepest, steady companion. Her belongings couldn’t criticize her or lend complaints; on the contrary, they were the places she could find security and happiness. Her many books allowed her to enter conversations with great thinkers that offered glimpses of a kind of nirvana after turmoil was brushed aside.

Reading from the Koran, the Tibetan Book of the Dead, the Talmud, Carl Jung, and the many volumes that explore the work of Martin Luther, Jutta began to investigate questions that try to give insight as to why we are here and what purpose this life might offer. Just as God looks over humanity, Jutta’s memories look over her and are constantly judging and reassuring her. Like the torment of hell, our mistakes made, even without our knowledge of knowing what the transgressions were, become haunting reminders of how broken we are and, consequently, how deserving we are of others’ dismissal and disapproval.

I’m certain that Jutta studied these things to resolve her pain and inner dilemma, but over time, the constant loneliness drove her to flirt with the person she didn’t want to become. When not under the gaze of those who loved her, she resorted to self-destructive behavior that cared little for the here and now and instead dwelled in an idealized past. Fragments of perfect moments when she was alone with her loving father, her children, or her curiosity offered solace against the nagging fear that she was failing others as she had her mother. Through it all, though, was that glimmer of childhood innocence that screamed out, “Love me!”

This has me looking at my sister-in-law in a different light as she bore witness to over 50 years of her mother lost in sorrow. Early in Stephanie’s life, it was she who found her mother unconscious from a suicide attempt. From that point on, no one could ever say if that event changed Jutta, nor do I believe anyone checked on Stephanie to determine how that might have impacted her. Not long after that, the marriage that brought two children into being dissolved, and Jutta was on her own.

Jutta encouraged her daughters to be fiercely independent, likely with the intention that nobody should hurt them the way she’d been hurt. Unspoken love was the rule in their home and was assumed to be there, but it was never uttered, although everyone should know full well that we have to hear that we are loved. This situation worked to the detriment of my mother-in-law as her children were never really able to offer their mom what she so desperately needed. While both in later life have become her friends, and both deeply love their mother, Jutta has never been able to forgive herself for the torment her existence had on others. Maybe if everyone could have just said, “I love you,” things might have been different.

I witnessed Stephanie crying the hard cry as the thought of her mom passing this year struck terror in her heart. Something is missing for her as maybe she knows she wants to love her mother unequivocally, but she too carries the burden of being afraid that she’s done something wrong and deserves others’ rejection. To combat that fear, she exercises a heavy hand and makes herself indispensable to others so she can hold on to whatever internal value she can keep, just like her mom was holding on to mementos to keep herself whole.

Jutta was afraid for a long time of losing any of these things she surrounded herself with. What will Stephanie lose when the mother she surrounds herself with is no longer here? Stephanie shared with me that the reason this hurts so deeply is that she wants her sister to see her mom one last time, but I’d venture to guess that what she really wants is the opportunity to be absolved of the guilt regarding her transgressions and her own issues of letting others know how important they are to her. Stephanie was too young to understand why her mother nearly died and why her father left, and I think she was too young to understand where her rage was coming from regarding her younger sister, Caroline.

Wanting to love someone but keeping them at a safe enough distance that they can’t betray you and rip your heart out requires a fortitude of self-inflicted pain. The hurt you may have witnessed your own mother or father enduring is a horrible burden and cycle that has to be broken, but how do loved ones direct these broken souls to get the help they need? Confronting ourselves in our weakness is not something many enjoy as it exposes the mask we’ve hidden behind for too long. It becomes the main characteristic of how we perceive ourselves, while the mirror doesn’t divulge the truth.

Just below the surface, though, is the real person. They are screaming out for love in silence and occasionally in the painful quips of lashing out at others. Deep within, our inner hurt child is begging to be loved unequivocally.

Through fits and starts, I look to my immersion into the periphery of Jutta’s life for random insights into things I believe I can construe out of my own bias, and while much may be false, I’ll construct what I can, fabricate some, and maybe verify things with Jutta’s faulty memory cross-checked with the two girls. I’m trying to say that I don’t know if any of this will have an ounce of veracity, but it will be, to the best of my ability, the truth as I have desired to know it.

Maus und Schnecke, Mouse and Snail. Stephanie is the mouse that roars, while Caroline is the snail that takes shelter within. Stephanie raced into the world, sought the love of her mother and father, and in short order, saw love fade away as it was given in abundance to her new sister. After nearly losing her mother to the attempted suicide and watching her father walk away from everyone, the mouse felt vulnerable that the giants of love were stepping on her. Since those fateful days, Stephanie has been chasing after love but roaring at those to keep them just distant enough that she remains in control while trying her best to grab and store all the love she can find.

Caroline, on the other hand, had to learn to hide and protect herself, to move slowly and cautiously like a snail. Her sister didn’t understand why “The Little One” received so much attention, and so she embarked on a plan to ensure that Caroline knew who was boss and first in line for any morsels of attention that might fall to the floor. When Caroline went to school, she was younger than the others and small in stature, but she made up for that with a giant intellect. When life got the ugliest, Caroline turned inside, taking the pain with her and trying to inflict more upon herself than others were able to so she could prove to herself that their pain was minor to the strength she had to endure her own.

While Caroline turned to fortify her shell into a fortress through knowledge, Stephanie worried herself with running about seeking attention and getting it. Caroline’s shell grew thick, but her sister remained frightened that what she needed to survive might run out, which required new tricks to let people know that she was scurrying about their feet squeaking for their affirmation. Stephanie, more than anything else, wanted and needed love, but going about it through being fierce and loud has had its limits. Yet those around her love her dearly if only she could see and know it.

Over time, Caroline grew to witness others admiring her fortitude, resilience, and determination, which motivated her to travel much further than she might have thought possible. Along the way, she learned to embrace being out of her shell for extended periods of time and take risks that would expose her soft foot to being stepped on, but she knew by then that the pain would subside and she’d be stronger for it.

When Jutta gave the girls their nicknames, little could she have known how this would impact their characters or how the girls would fit their characterizations.

Stephanie goes about her life loudly to this day, commanding attention. She suffers from wanting to be heard, to be noticed, to be loved all the while unable to recognize all of us who want nothing more than for her to accept our love and stop trying to win us over. Letting us know how great she is, which we already know, becomes a bludgeoning weapon that ultimately has people wanting to pull away from her. Family is a fragile entity, and love is an apparently fleeting thing that people can take away or destroy, which in turn takes away and destroys parts of our happiness we rarely get to repair. Maybe the girls would have been better served with nicknames such as Loved and Fortunate.

When we fill our lives with the effects, trinkets, and things we believe we need to make our lives whole, do we leave enough space in that construct of artificial perfection for others to bring their stuff, emotions, and lives into our world? When does that loved one recognize that they are secondary to the physical possessions sitting on a pedestal, instead of their own emotional needs that beg for the same attention that those other things seem to deserve?

As I watch an old lady make space in her life for that very thing called living to leave her, it’s peculiar to watch someone else already building a shrine of remembrances. It appears that objects pulled in and attached to are more important than giving effort to understanding this other person’s needs for love. It is the shared memories and acknowledged emotional embrace that should coexist within one’s own personal tower of self instead of constructing some hollow monument of things lost in a horde of possessions.

Personal boundaries are discovered and made pliable by those who push back and gain our trust. Without tolerance for others to intrude into this personal space, we either become bullies or cower from those who might transgress that boundary. Not allowing pushback halts the bi-directional dialogue of growth that gives affirmation to the person who is telling the other that they are not feeling valued. The bully won’t hear something that might damage their bubble, while those who cower risk losing their identity to someone who cannot respect others’ pain.

How to break through these defenses and warn someone that a storm is brewing when they cannot see the hints that fall on deaf ears? Why should we even feel concerned? If this situation concerns loved ones, the wreckage of a world that collapses can produce greater damage that can befall those who are near the destruction. Inevitably, all things collapse, but how we act to preserve what’s really important will be the test of character that will take us down one path of potential continued well-being or the other where the bridge is washed out, and the abyss awaits us to meet its bottom.

Klingel - a bicycle bell in Frankfurt, Germany

Sound the alarm, ring the bell, borders are being crossed. My apologies if I’ve run anyone over, but good intentions were carrying me forward. Enthusiasm to live and forge a way ahead has me pedaling at a steady pace. We are going places that travel pathways totally unknown to those on a journey into themselves. It’s not that we can’t know where we are going, but uncertainty allows flexibility to stumble into discovery.

Humanity has built an illusion of intensity where we race from trend to trend, shop to shop, cash to cryptocurrency, and app to upgrade, but at the core of it all, we are just simple little creatures in need of what we’ve always needed, food, friendship, something to stimulate our senses, and a safe place to rest and recover. The urgency to do everything in haste is a valuable weapon against awareness, as that volatile human trait has the ability to disrupt things in chaotic ways. Awareness takes time and a steady gaze to find what’s important.

At this juncture in history, where the economy around mindless consumption is ruling our lives with advertisers and governments enjoying the windfall of complacency, many of us appear content to witness consumerism threaten to run us over. We are gazing at the shiny object, certain it will offer us just what we need, but can’t be bothered with the slow, steady march into ourselves.

Complacency and lack of self-awareness regarding important things allow us to miss the devil in the details. In any case, who can tell anyone what is important in an age of total banality, hysteria, and fear?

If you are one of the few questioning the ugly bean dip of mysterious goos with dubious cultural value layered within you, then you will first have to rid yourself of that wicked diet of predigested waste and replace it with intention. While intention is yummy and free, it’s not always easily accessible, and it’s surely not palatable to many of the other people on your new path, so be prepared to madly flick the lever, ringing the bell for others to get out of your way.

Jutta Engelhardt and John Wise on the Main River in Frankfurt, Germany

That shell you call you is the container of all you will ever be. Authenticity is not a guaranteed iteration of that person. Hell, you’ll never be really certain if you ever achieved a lick of authenticity, as that’s up to others to decide. And don’t be tricked by those too shallow to make that determination, as they may be somebody who flatters others for the sake of having that fake graciousness reflected back at them. Life is not an Instagram universe of influencers and likes.

Frankfurt, Germany

Dance, monkey, dance. Turn up the music and get in touch with the unthinking you that existed before structural conformity stole large parts of your ability to play in your imagination. When by yourself with your favorite tunes blaring you can let down the guard of appearing foolish. Jump around, twist and flail, grunt if you must so you can find your body and lose yourself in the beat. Music is an elixir that communicates with emotions, body, and mind simultaneously and does so without the filter of what is expected of you. You needn’t dance artistically; just let yourself go and feel the rhythm.

Own this sense of allowing your body the freedom to explore space and focus on what that feels like. Now, how do you bring that to yourself when standing in nature, before an ocean, or when diving into intellectual endeavors that threaten to overwhelm you? You have to accept that maybe none of it will make any sense at all with your first encounter, but that’s okay. Go back and enjoy this moment of absolute naivety as you are nearest to your original self before everything was brought into reason. When you dance with life, you are feeling the raw energy of your primal self, letting go of the bindings of what others want from you. You are at the pinnacle of it all; you are the bird celebrating flight.

Frankfurt, Germany

Don’t act surprised that I’m so intolerant of the inner sloth we’ve learned to live with. Get off that horse of narcissism and the languid sludge you rode in on and slap yourself awake. Maybe you see the world in black and white terms of us and them, but that’ll never fly as disruption is always just a step away, carved out of the many hues of life. When that person across from you is raising their eyebrows in surprise that you said something so stupid, they are not doing this because you are being provocative; they are likely reacting with incredulity that you just lowered both your and their IQs.

Better to bite your tongue, read, learn, explore, and dance until questions become more urgent than statements of assumed fact. Someday, you might learn that little of what we have to say will reach a meaningful state before our minds have been stuffed with things more meaningful than slogans, memes, and viral nonsense.

Oh my God, John, does everything have to be so serious? Well, not really, but I’m tired of waiting around to have dozens of curious people around me in public spaces instead of one or two at any given time. I’m in want and need of conscientious others who peel off the scab of my indignation and expose the gaping holes in my knowledge. No, I don’t mean that I need intellectual bullies to toss salt into my bleeding cavity of ignorance, but I would like to know why this thread of thinking appears to fail at adding embellishments to the emperor’s clothing.

Frankfurt, Germany

The payoff from such work and investment in one’s self is the ability to go further. The path may not be paved in gold, but lush green corridors under blue skies do lead to ideal locations to further explore what else awaits the mind of those who toil in the minutiae of personal discovery.

If I had to offer an inventory of what I’ve gained from filling my head over and again, I’d likely come up flat with nothing tangible to show as the reward for knowledge seems to be only more curiosity and greater uncertainty, although confidence in exploring the void feels less daunting. But isn’t that the ultimate treasure when collecting life’s lessons, that we are offered the raging desire to discover more?

But how does this begin to make sense? Life is obviously a journey into our physical world, and for some, it is also an opportunity to investigate our presence in reality that extends beyond the domain of what is seen. And what is vaster than curious humans alone in a cold, harsh reality that appears infinite and indecipherable? It is our imagination and symbolic representation of unknown and undiscovered potentialities that lay down the track into alien realms of thought and awareness.

Husum, Germany

“Baa, I’m a sheep happy to stand in my meadow under the sun with my head down, munching these tasty grasses.” Well, I suppose that’s okay as you offer me fodder to think about how your less-than-human presence amongst those of us trying to ascend the ideas of humanity might bring you and your kind into the flock of personal awareness.

Your myopia is my telescope. As I try to understand why I am not ewe, I have gained better visual and critical awareness that we exist on different plains of reality; I look to see further. My world is formed by words and ideas, while yours may as well be defined by the spot you are standing at chewing your cud and pooping on what you’ll eat tomorrow.

You are a machine of regurgitation, rechewing, and endless repeats of what you’ve already eaten a thousand times before. Don’t believe me? How many times have you watched the same program, played the same video game for a thousand hours, read the same book half a dozen times, visited the same vacation destination, and watched the same team play countless iterations of what is effectively nothing more than what you’ve grown familiar with? That cultural dead end is where you graze on the cud of your existence while your absence in my universe allows me the first taste of things never dreamt of as being possible.

Pellworm, Germany

Speaking of dreams, my ship into the greater seas of discovery is being lured by the strangest song that asks me to leave behind my lament and focus on the beacon of what’s truly important. The ocean where those dreams are found extends past these shores into the clouds and the stars beyond. Navigation is a rocky affair as the sextant that might guide us has yet to be invented. Don’t allow the ensuing chaos and failures of taking a series of journeys that lead you nowhere to deter your ambition, as all directions will ultimately end in death at some point anyway. We may as well seize on to the current and allow ourselves to drift into our personal unknown waters.

Westerhever Lighthouse, Germany

Don’t fret if you become lost, as the lighthouse of sanity has a way of pulling us back to safety. The storm rages in our minds, and our imaginations beg for interpretation. Someone has to make the bigger sacrifice of launching into the tempest. What is stopping you from climbing on board?

Klaus Engelhardt on the train to Frankfurt, Germany

Do you need a friend to travel with you? There are many others who have made this journey. They are found in the works of many a philosopher, artist, theologian, psychologist, scientist, historian, linguist, theoretician, adventurer, inventor, writer, composer, or the best of mothers and fathers. Mentor up and lay into some Saussure, Bach, Nietzsche, Goethe, Luther, Lacan, Planck, Foucalt, Locke, or so many of the other great thinkers and creators that have come before us. If that is too daunting, find a nerdy, well-read friend who might be able to share some steps into critical and creative thinking.

We do not need to travel alone; as a matter of fact, we humans have always done better when we find ourselves within a community. The operative objective here is not to allow yourself to be relegated to a community of idiots, which is currently the majority of people’s method of inclusion. So it goes, I still will choose to stand outside the picture of the masses and go it alone if life demands it.

Snail in Frankfurt, Germany

No matter how slow, no matter the fragile circumstances, I will inch along with my influences and mentors firmly attached to my back. Vulnerable in the precarious world of giants, I still move with some small amount of trepidation, but caution and awareness of the situation will hopefully carry me through. The imperative is that I don’t take refuge in my shell and forget to head out to enjoy the sun and rain, as although I have the essentials with me, I cannot exist in a void.

Lost doll in Germany

Like abandoned toys, we cast off people with nary a thought. Falling apart but still trying to smile they look on from the sidelines, waiting for someone to remember the joy they once brought others and hope they’ll be adopted by someone who cares. I care, but that’s not enough to offer the multitude a rescue plan that will embrace them and keep them warm.

In an age where family is largely secondary to career and economy, we make sacrifices in order to save ourselves. But the truth is that not all of us know how to pick ourselves back up when we feel forsaken and alone.

Frankfurt, Germany

It is the work of communities and families to pull people together. Far longer than artifice has played a role in masking our humanity, we were tightly bound to one another for survival. Without ties, dreams, ambition, and empathy, we are nothing more than a bunch of random insects just trying not to die on our way to a nest that may or may not exist anymore.

Remember the church? More importantly, do you remember or have you ever known the role God was playing in people’s lives? The church used to be where our souls celebrated the extraordinary every Sunday. God, well, I’m certain to step on some toes here, but God, for me, is the potential found in all humans. God is not a single entity or singular concept. Should a God, in fact, be a part of our reality, it is certainly not a supreme leader that would beg or bargain with us puny humans to use conduits for us to find or purchase our salvation. The lessons seem so obvious that we are supposed to rely on one another to find guidance, empathy, and ties to our communities and families and be able to manifest dreams of what we might accomplish in this kingdom.

Instead, we traded our souls for egos and started worshiping celebrities, icons, and politicians. Money became holy, the sacrament was found in the concerts, rallies, or events, while the gospel is celebrated as being popular. I’m not suggesting piety is the missing ingredient of what ails the Western world, but maybe if we understood that a part of us owes our creator the respect of helping its vassal best honor the gift we have in being alive, we’d treat ourselves and others much better than we do.

Mind you, I’m an atheist. I do not believe in a singular deity, but nor am I so lofty in my knowledge that I can explain all potential layers of realities, and don’t think for a second that I’m an agnostic. The agnostic doesn’t believe that the nature of God can be known, while I see that within our love of others and self, that thing we identified as an empathic God was, in fact, found in people and our voices. We brought love, music, art, and poetic language to describe the incredible profundity found in nature that transcends our violence and conflict. We were manifesting divinity.

When our better natures are at work, we are doing the Lord’s work, but that sanctimonious reference diminishes that we are exploring the divine on behalf of our community and family. We needn’t honor Jesus with adoration, as when we honor our neighbor and fellow humans, we are celebrating the children of God. We honor God when we bring our potential forward; we are showing that part of us that is God.

Treading into this territory feels wickedly stupid, as debating doctrine, canon law, and religious belief is such a fetid endeavor when power and money are dictating that the status quo remains unchallenged and reigns supreme. I can only draw the ire of the ignorantly devout who are blind to real compassion that doesn’t involve currency, but then again, I’m just a layperson, a regular idiot, without a conduit to any of your deities.

I cannot see my fellow man, woman, or child from high above. I cannot see animals, birds, fish, or insects from up here. The systems that exist at eye level supporting life and the invisible microscopic nature of things smaller than all of that cannot be appreciated unless we are down in the thick of it. Suffering in an abundant world is a testament to our pettiness and screams from the tower that we, in fact, murdered God and abandoned our souls. We do not care for God’s creation when we can so easily fail to bear witness to the reality of our world. We are selfish, merciless, and damned to walk alone, but I refuse; I want to reach out and grasp that hand of love and never stop experiencing the beauty found in the endlessly amazing nature of the earth, its creatures, and what we’re able to dream of with our heads up in the clouds.

Day 35 – The Exit

My wake-up call from Arizona arrived an hour early, which is keeping with my 5-week tradition of not getting enough sleep. Showered and packed before Klaus offered me breakfast of Brötchen and Marmelade, and I was ready to tackle some photo prep duties to ensure I’d have plenty of material to write about during my 16 hours of traveling. By 10:00 a.m. I’m on my short walk to Zeilweg to jump on the train to Hauptwache with a connection to Hauptbahnhof before a third train takes me to the Flughafen.

I presented my negative results of the COVID test I took on Saturday, my boarding pass and passport, and found myself in the second group to board after parents traveling with children and those in need of assistance. This is my last photograph of Frankfurt before we return for a briefer 21-day stay near the middle of September. With only 7 hours 41 minutes of daylight during the deepest winter, I’d like to get us back into Europe before we have to endure 16 hour nights.

I suppose I should describe my place in business class that is likely ruining my future international flying experiences. Of course, the seat is amazing, and without a flight neighbor, I believe I have space typically occupied by three people. The seat allows me to lay flat though I was more comfortable with the seat about 75% of the way down for my nap. Our first meal came on pretty quickly after takeoff and was our main meal of the flight. I opted for the burrata, tomato, arugula, and pesto for my appetizer and a braised steak with tagliatelle and creamed spinach for the main course. The dessert was a cherry and chocolate gelato. By the time I get to my third cup of coffee, another steward is asking those of us who are awake if we’d like a Mini Magnum bar. Diabetes be damned, I’m flying business!

Seeing I have the menu here at my seat, I’ll also share that prior to landing, we’ll have a final meal. While I’ll be opting for the vegetable ravioli on rape blossom stew with melted tomatoes and hazelnut stock, the smoked tuna with avocado, mango, papaya, and edamame, on sushi rice with sriracha mayo is tempting. Dessert for that meal is fixed with no alternatives, so we’ll all have a chia pudding with fresh fruit. Oh, I forgot to mention that the first round of drinks on offer came with a porcelain ramekin of roasted almonds.

Some of the above is out of sequence because it fits up there, and well, it just works better for me. This photo is of us still not at altitude as we were still heading north somewhere over Germany in a place I can’t quite figure out.

Farms and villages were separated by stands of forests as far as the eye could see.

We are as high as we’ll get on this flight, and I don’t mean as much as the two priests in the center two seats must be after three glasses of wine. Yes, I was keeping track, and both of them have had to be reminded multiple times to pull their masks up. I suppose God will absolve them of their sins.

It’s been three hours since we left Frankfurt, so it’s 4:40 in the afternoon. In Denver, where we’re headed, it is 7:40 in the morning. Here on the plane, the majority of people are asleep. Did Lufthansa put Ambien in everyone else’s meal? As for me? I’m busy writing about yesterday and my trip to Worms and Karlsruhe. In another tab, I have the makings of an entry with 34 photos so far, one for each day I was in Germany, which was set up in case I ran out of things to write in this entry and yesterday. This doesn’t seem very likely.

My mask has to be on at all times that I’m not eating or drinking, and the warm, humid breath is making me tired, or the collective nap is emanating sleep vibes, making me drowsy. My hope is that I can beat jetlag if I stay awake because when I get home after 9:00 p.m., I’ll be so tired I’ll sleep until morning.

An hour later my eyes have closed a few times with fingers that have grown heavy. I snap back awake from my micro-nap to see a “j” duplicated 50 times across the screen or a “k” streaming along. Mine is the only window open, and the blinding white tops of diffuse clouds are doing nothing to snap my pineal into shape or choke off the melatonin that’s whispering sweet nothings to my eyelids. I want to give in, but also don’t want to nap for more than 30 minutes. Those around me have been in their state of slumber for at least two hours already. I cannot suffer their fate.

But suffer, I did. My 30-minute nap worked perfectly, so I was going to add 30 minutes, but 15 of those into that segment, one of the air-stewards reached over me and closed my shade with the change in light and sound, taking me out of my sweet fever dream on the sunny hot side of the plane. I do feel refreshed and ready to take on this weird place between time zones.

I just realized that this flying arrangement is allowing me to drink more than on any previous flight as it’s not a painful hassle to squeeze myself out of a seat where the person in front of me knows I’m getting out as I have to pull on the seat and bump into it as I attempt to extract myself through the seven-inch slice of space we are afforded in economy that’s been filled with 44 inches of fat. I’m liberated to pee to my heart’s content, my bladder’s too.

I just checked on my connecting flight in Denver and wonder who booked this. A four-hour layover? Really? Why didn’t I look to another carrier that had an earlier flight? That sounds like such a great idea I’m looking right now if I can get a ticket for a reasonable price this late in the day. Jeez, everywhere else on the internet works fine. Try going to a competitor airline, and it’s taking forever to render pages. Well, $450 nixes that idea.

I hear activity in the kitchen. We better get this last meal out of the way because I’m kind of enjoying this feeling that we are eating non-stop, and who knows what snack might follow before landing. Speaking of landing, we are about 3.5 hours away from doing just that in Denver where I can start my 4-hour hanging out in a terminal and will probably pass out.

Damn it. It was probably the two ice creams and three coffees, but I’m feeling that telltale sense of pressure that could indicate I might have to consider the unthinkable: a bowel movement at 35,000 feet. This can’t happen; this has never happened. I won’t let it happen. What deep PTSD-inflicted trauma happened in my early Catholic upbringing that brought shame to this very natural near-daily act of evacuating the shit sock? Ah, remember that reference from my book about the Grand Canyon? Yeah, you probably don’t, as why would you?

So what club did I just join exactly? Really, John, you didn’t take a selfie in there? I’ve got to say that a business class toilet isn’t in demand as much as those in economy and it’s maintained a lot better, even after 7 hours in flight.

I’m done. We’ve not eaten yet, I pooped, no crying kids in business class, but I’m done. I’m ready to land, ready to get to Phoenix, ready to hug Caroline. Hmm, I’ll probably have to shower soon after hugging her as after a month away eating a different diet and using different soaps, I’m going to smell strange.

Something to snack on or eat needs to happen; I’m bored. The computer is open, but my brain is in a funk. I have all these creative tools at my disposal, but I get stuck staring at the blank space ahead of the last word I wrote, and compulsively, I feel I have to keep pounding the keys. Too bad I’m not a poet, I could use the empty bottle of water and vast legroom to write something about the contrast if there even was something to be found using those things as subject matter.

The young skinny priest just started his fourth glass of vino. There must be something better to do on this plane than keeping score of a couple of drunken men from the clergy.

I guess I was wrong about kitchen sounds, as it’s an hour later, and the stewards are nowhere to be seen. Skinny priest is going to hell, he’s without a mask, and I’m not going to forgive him his sins for this shit. I’m putting in a smote order after I’m done typing this.

Maybe I should have gotten a bit more sleep as I’m not due home for another 9 hours; that’s 6:30 in the morning back in Germany, which would mean I’ve gotten 45 minutes of sleep in the intervening 25 hours of being in motion. Sleeping at the Denver airport doesn’t sound all that smart, but then again, I could have Caroline call and wake me so I don’t miss my connecting flight. This seems like a small price to pay for the opportunity to lay down so many words from so high up in the sky. It’s not like I spend every day some five miles over the earth writing, though admittedly, I can’t say that anything I’ve noted here has any exceptional insight that would allow me to claim influence from being aloft.

We’ve been flying over the Canadian Shield, also known as the Laurentian Plateau, for quite some time. I never fail to be amazed by this vast, flat gargantuan stretch of land with a million small bodies of water spotting the landscape. There are nearly a dozen fires burning away down on what I’d imagine is tundra, probably from lightning strikes, as there are no roads anywhere out here.

Looking up information about the shield, I see that I’m looking down on the North American Craton known as Laurentia. This body of land once had the tallest mountains on earth, but glaciers and erosion have worn this land nearly flat, and it’s old, coming in at about 3.96 billion years of age.

I have no complaints about the meal served to me; it was one of the best, if not the best, meal I’ve had on a plane. It was better than my previous meal of the day. So, is business class worth the extra expense? The toilet, meals, and service are certainly pluses. The table and all the space I could possibly want in front of me and for elbows within the seat have allowed me to write comfortably all day. Maybe if I’d slept more, I could better appreciate the seats that allow passengers to lay down, heck I even have my CPAP with me, I could have had seriously proper sleep. My butt still hurts, and I want to walk around, but that’s a small price considering the convenience of getting on first and not competing for overhead bin space along with the aforementioned benefits, so I’d be inclined to say, yes, it’s worth it. Will I do it again? Depends on the price differential when Caroline and I return to Europe in about ten weeks.

I never tire of looking down on our earth from up here. I can’t understand how everyone else in this section watched videos for the previous 8.5 hours or slept when those with window seats had these amazing live views of their planet. I may never get to space, but the view from up here isn’t bad, either. I’m astonished that this is my life: one day, I’m riding a bike 80km along the world’s largest mudflat, taking in an art exhibit on another, and the next, I’m in the sky, connected to the world of knowledge, dining on hot food at 35,000 feet.

We are somewhere over South Dakota, and the clouds over North America always look so much more defined and billowy than what I see over the skies of Europe. The land out my window is still flat, but I anticipate seeing mountains at any time. I remain on the lookout.

We’ve reached Colorado and are approaching Denver.

Well, here I am in Denver with 90 minutes to go before I board the next plane to Arizona. Customs was a breeze, and my $14 brisket sandwich wasn’t horrible. I hope it lasts me the rest of the night. I’m sleepy beyond belief and I’m certain I’ll pass out on my way home. Somehow, I’m pretty chilled out; it’s often happened that I feel assaulted by America when I hit the airport; maybe the extra room in business class alleviated a good amount of stress? Seems like I’m done writing for the day, time to exit this non-stop blogging.

Day 34 – Not Paris

I’m up early for the train to Paris. Sadly, I get off in Mannheim, where I’ll transfer to Worms. Not so sad really, as Worms is my first chosen destination. I’m visiting history. Tomorrow’s final train in Germany will be the one that will begin my return to the United States.

I can’t emphasize enough how much I love 1st class rail travel. If I never had to fly again, I could be perfectly content on long hauls via train. After not driving a car for five weeks, it will be strange to get behind the wheel again, but that’s not for another day yet.

My redundancy is in full effect by now. How much can I say about the many fields of wheat we are passing? A couple of years ago, when I was here in early April, there were fields of rape outside my window.

I love a dramatic sky, even if it means bloating a blog entry with too many photos. While the anonymous reader will wonder why the author has shared so many, you should be aware that I’m not trying to entice others to visit these places or resonate with the same things I find beautiful or relevant; I post all of this for two people, my wife and myself.

Worms, but not what you think. This relatively small city 50 miles south of Frankfurt plays a large role in German history as the location of much of the “action” in the Nibelungenlied, a medieval epic poem, and the beginning of the Reformation five hundred years ago in 1521. I feel fortunate to be here during the 500th anniversary of such an important event.

I’ve mentioned these cleaners in another post during my stay in Germany. I can only imagine how different American cities might be if people were given jobs such as these and all of our places of commerce were kept neat and clean (and mostly without the use of leaf blowers).

It was the Edict of Worms that opened the schism by banning people from sharing Martin Luther’s ideas. While the 95 Theses he had posted to a church door in 1517 started the world on the pathway to the Reformation, it was the Diet of Worms and their Edict that Martin Luther was “a notorious heretic” that really started the dramatic historical changes that would follow the Reformation.

This is an incredibly important inflection point in Western history that disrupted European power and laid the groundwork for dissolving empires, shifting religious adherences and led to a number of wars, the worst lasting 30 years.

First, the city walls were mostly destroyed by the 30 Years War, and then in 1689, during the Nine Years War, the city was sacked, producing more destruction. and finally, during World War II, about 40 percent of the city was damaged by Allied bombing. My point is that the building that served as the assembly hall for the Diet appears destroyed to the best of my quick research.

This is the Holy Trinity Church, which I’ll visit on my way back into town. During World War II, most of this church was destroyed, but more on that later. First, I have a date with an event that goes back to the beginning of the 13th century.

Now we arrive at the Nibelungen. This is Germany’s epic poem of heroism and is considered their Iliad. It was supposedly here on the bank of the Rhein River that Hagen of Tronje, after slaying the hero Siegfried, threw the Nibelungenhort, Siegfried’s treasure, into the drink. This, combined with my familiarity with Richard Wagner’s Ring of the Nibelungen, has finally created enough interest for me to ask Caroline to find The Song of the Nibelungs, its English title, to join our list of books read in the car.

The poem has been dated to approximately 1205 while the opera was first performed in Bayreuth on August 13, 1876. Of course, this is all just information found on Wikipedia, but as I stood here at the Rhein, I did try to imagine that day 800 years ago or more when the raiding party led by Hagen saw the evil in wealth tossed everything in the river. If this even happened in the past 1100 years, then the cathedral was already part of town, and other than all the new buildings, metal railing, and the bridge over the river, I’d imagine that things look much the same. Even so, who knows where Hagen stood precisely during all this? Plus, maybe the river has moved its banks a few times since then; there were probably docks here and there and people fishing from shore and from boats out in the river.

The bells that I’m listening to from the cathedral calling people to church (it is Sunday, after all) would have been the loudest things ever heard by the people of that time. As for recovering the silver and gold that got tossed, who would have had the swimming skills back then to dive into the river to scour the bottom, hoping to find something valuable? Even Wagner’s The Ring of the Nibelungen is unknown to me, not the music, of course, but the lyrical content is in German, and I’ve never taken the time to read it. This really is my loss, as here I am at ground zero of this epic tale and opera and I have more blanks than relevant info. Sometimes, I’m a sad sack.

Is this a stretch of surviving town wall, a reconstruction, or a tourist attraction, as there’s a sign nearby directing people to visit the Nibelungen museum? I can’t afford that luxury as I have 2.5 hours in town, and that’s barely enough for much at all.

I do appreciate this effort in Germany: a historical facade still exists, but the rest of the building needs to be cleared away, so they preserve what they can and conform the new house to the features of the old building, at least on the side deemed salvageable.

Protestantism from the word protestation came into being following the edict issued by the Diet of Speyer in 1529 due to the protestations of a number of German Lutheran princes. Today, Protestantism encompasses many churches beyond Lutheranism but both ideas emerged out of the words and actions of Martin Luther. Catholicism would never be the same after this.

Martin Luther, before emperor and realm on 18 April 1521: Since your most serene majesty and your high princes require of me a simple answer, I will give a straightforward one without quibbles thus: If I am not convinced by scripture or by clear reasoning, I am still bested by the passages that I have quoted and my conscience remains imprisoned in God’s word. I cannot trust the pope or the council because it has been shown that they have erred before and contradicted themselves. I cannot recant, nor will I retract anything, because it is not safe nor wise to act against one’s conscience. Here I stand; I cannot do otherwise. God help me, Amen.

Fire destroyed the Holy Trinity Church after the city of Worms was bombed during World War II. The original church was built between 1709 and 1725 on the site of the Haus zur Münze (House of Coinage) that had been destroyed in the aforementioned Nine-Years-War. It is said that the site was chosen for the church because the citizens of Worms believed that it was here that Martin Luther spoke with the King in 1521 as Luther was becoming a public enemy.

The church was modernized when it was rebuilt, as it was a near-total loss and if I understood the man I was talking with, it’s used frequently for concerts.

The mosaic in the background features the King top center, Martin Luther on the right, and his aide on the left. The first big reason for Caroline and me to return is to attend a concert here.

The second big reason to come back is for Caroline to hear the bells clang on a Sunday morning.

Leave it to the Catholics to know how to put on a show of glitz and ornamentation. Services were about to get underway when I shot this photo; the guy at the door informed me that parishioners were already signing up for today’s sermon (a measure brought on by COVID). Pleading that I only had two hours in Worms, I asked for 3 minutes, and he let me have them.

A sprint past all of this was sad, but at least I have some idea of the grandeur of St. Peter’s Cathedral.

Will we ever again build such public houses where light and shadows, ornate figures, and gilded objects are on display for all to witness? I wouldn’t count on it. Just as Caroline and I have strived to see as many national parks and monuments as we could, and we’ve kept track of them, I wish I’d done the same with cathedrals.

There’s a synagogue nearby, and I’ll not be able to stop in today as I’m now running short on time, but I did come across these stumbling stones that recognize the lives of Berta and Max Joseph, who were deported and murdered in Bełżec concentration camp that was the third most fatal concentration camp after Treblinka and Auschwitz.

How in the world did the oldest Jewish cemetery in Europe survive World War II? Are the parents of Bertha and Max buried here? Many of the graves have markings in Hebrew, so it was obvious who was interred here but I’m at a loss how this survived and wasn’t wiped off the face of the earth. Walking in, I needed a kipa or hat. I was about to be turned away by a security guy, but then he asked if I had a mask with me, instant kipa in the pocket is now adorning the crown of my head.

On the train to Karlsruhe with little concentration available. I’m tired, and I’m hungry. Father Hanns was at the platform waiting for my arrival. Out of the main train station, we boarded a bus for a short ride to Europastrasse, where we’d get lunch at the same spot he, Caroline, and I always eat. Over a slow meal, we talked about religion, philosophy, writing, reading, Umberto Eco, Caroline, Stephanie, his granddaughter Katharina, Martin Luther, various evangelical bishops, the community of English-speaking evangelicals in the Baden-Württemberg region, but not a word about Paris.

After lunch, we visited Father Hanns’s home so he could identify a particular book, it was The Mysterious Flame of Queen Loana by Umberto Eco. Hanns is surrounded by books, his home is arranged for the life of books and his place in their universe where he can read and write. In minutes, an hour had passed after the first two-and-a-half had flown by, too. We now had to make haste to a taxi stand so we could race back to the train station. Four hours with my father-in-law wasn’t enough.

Back on the train not only are we moving fast, I’m moving fast into time with only 17 minutes before we dock in Frankfurt. The problem with this is that I’m too early. Circumstances are such that I have avoided where I’m staying for some hours until later this evening because my insensitive mouth doesn’t always read people well, especially when the other person cannot be read. So, what do I do? Train ride somewhere else on a Sunday, try meeting up with Olaf the last time, or visit Jutta just before her dinner time.

Thirteen minutes to go, and I don’t want to close my computer, nor do I want to read some depressing news. Bandwidth is not so great I would watch videos, but 12 minutes is hardly enough to get into something. Eleven minutes and I have nothing to share, so before I finish this countdown, I’ll save and put things away to prepare for disembarking.

I met with Olaf after arriving in Frankfurt and spent about an hour with him chatting before walking around the corner to Kebab Han for a mixed grill of Turkish meats.

Walked into the city after the rain stopped and wandered around before taking the U6 or U7 to Heerstrasse just because it was too early to head back to Heddernheim. The tension surrounding this departure from Frankfurt is giving me poor feelings. I probably shouldn’t mention this here as I knew this was the potential price of sticking my nose in other people’s business, but those people couldn’t handle the confrontation, and so with me short of time, I had to accelerate things. Now I’m paying for it with this ill will I’m feeling. This is compounded by the fact that I’m tired, I have to pack, and I have delayed things to avoid any further confrontation. What a dumb way to end this visit to Frankfurt, where my objective was to do well by others.

I cannot believe this area near the Hauptbahnhof (Main Train Station) was ever a nice area, but a placard I’d never seen before was on a wall noting that Oskar Schindler lived here for nearly ten years. If I had the time or a better idea of where I’d have found it, I would have gone looking for Horkheimer’s old house on Westendstrasse. Hanns told me about it but didn’t know the house number, so I’ll have to make that pilgrimage another day.

It’s 9:30, and I’m heading from Heerstrasse back to Hauptwache to jump aboard the U1, U3, or U8 to Zeilweg. I’m guessing I’ll be heading to Hauptbahnhof and then the Flughafen between 9:00 and 10:00 tomorrow morning to arrive at least two hours early. I’m flying business class, so I should be able to show up a bit later, but these are COVID times, and I’m still hoping that my rapid antigen test meets the requirements I need to fly to the United States. The worst part of tomorrow I can already taste is the landing in Denver and trying to shove 40,000 pounds of stupid into my eyeballs. I’m expecting there will be a kind of sickness when I start picking up on casual conversations that swerve into the violently aggressive. I know full well that I’ll be hearing grumbling dissatisfaction and the bickering of people tense that they are not in their comfort zone. This is NOT what I’ll be experiencing at the Frankfurt Airport.

I just transformed my angst into something positive for me and, apparently, the man I helped. This guy was the recipient of 65 Euros tonight. He’s broken and falling apart. Three years in jail in Austria and super hard times have left this man of about 30 years old nearly toothless with swollen hands, horrible scars, and seriously ugly wounds on his legs that suggest he’s rotting away. His verbal enthusiasm was emotionally liberating as he told me that nobody had ever helped him like that. Originally, I’d given him 5 Euros on the train, and after some more minutes of him begging others, I threw him the other 10 Euros. When I left the platform we pulled in on, he was busy digging through the trash, but five minutes later, he was on a lower platform where I was waiting for my next train. I asked him for a photo and could see he was reluctant and I told him it was okay that I don’t take it, we’re cool. He then said, “No, go ahead, you really helped me a lot tonight,” so I handed him the 50 and thought he’d cry. He looked down at it and couldn’t believe what I’d given him; he stood up straight and invited me to take his photo. I nearly cried at this wretched man who hardly remains with the living.

Day 33 – Kunst, Covid, Gott, und Sonne

Frankfurt, Germany

Gilbert & George, COVID-19, God, and Sun are part of my day today, my last full day in Frankfurt during this visit. In reverse, the sun is already shining when I’d expected rain the last few days or so the forecast was warning me of just two days ago. In order to be allowed to return to America on Monday, I have to get a test for the Coronavirus even though I’m vaccinated. Then, I’m meeting Caroline’s godmother, Helga, at the Schirn Museum for the Gilbert & George exhibit. And somewhere in there is God.

Frankfurt, Germany

Between these moments, I will be meeting with Jutta, finding food, and taking inventory of what I didn’t do while in Frankfurt. No, scratch that; the inventory is as full as it’s going to be. I have to squash the idea that I should find something new to give heft to the day. I’m on my way out, and that is that.

John Wise getting Coronavirus test in Frankfurt, Germany

The left nostril was a piece of cake (no, I’m referencing a booger), but the right nostril was one of the most ticklish things I’ve ever felt. No wonder people sneeze with 3 inches of swab deep in their sinus while all I could do was laugh at how absurdly ticklish it was. This test, my first ever, was required by the U.S. even though I’m traveling fully vaccinated. I can only wonder how nervous the CDC is that the vaccine might not be as effective as they hope for.

Frankfurt, Germany

I was just around the corner from Jutta’s because we had a date to have lunch together one more time during this visit. Every time I see Römer, home of the Frankfurt city government, I can’t help but think of past Christmas markets held here, with Caroline and I dressed warmly and her enjoying a Glühwein (spiced hot wine).

Frankfurt, Germany

Some things are out of the way, while others are yet to come. In between, I’m taking a pause in one of my regular haunts, when they are near anyway, a church. Frankfurt Cathedral is today’s shelter from the crowds that have returned as restrictions related to COVID-19 are being relaxed. There’s someone at the organ practicing a song that I would like to identify.

The piece I heard is titled Nada te Turbe from the Spaniard Theresa von Avila; it’s beautiful.

Damn it, I’m being brought to tears as the organist and violinist plays Pachelbel’s Canon in D Major. You’d think I’d heard this enough times for it to no longer have any effect, but here it is in the cathedral with all the reverb a room like this produces, and as the music fills the space, I’m filled with all of the emotion I felt when I first heard this piece when I was a teenager.

Frankfurt, Germany

Where is the perpetually angry, angst-ridden John who was certain all was for naught? I’m now so often swayed by beauty in any of its forms and captured in the deep emotions that seem to bind me to a passion of awe. I can more easily lament the spleen that spews from my indignation than I can share those things that well up in a swirl of emotional astonishment, bringing me to tears. The desire to fall into bliss, swooning with the ecstatic chords of what is unfolding in music, nature, sky, and sea, brings me to a primal state that defies logic. The sense of symbiosis is fleeting, though, because I fear letting go completely as I’d certainly weep out loud, bringing unwanted attention by those who might check if I’m okay.

The Dom is filling up as I sit to the side, inappropriately dressed for whatever function that is being prepared. I wish to stay put for whatever service or performance will be taking place, but I have a meeting with Caroline’s godmother just minutes from now. I would like to believe I could sit in church every day for the rest of my life across Europe and listen to the entire body of music ever created for these settings and never grow bored. How is this grizzled old atheist so in touch with the profound? For that matter, just what is profound?

Love is profound, and in our passion to communicate with something greater than ourselves, we explore the heights that language, light, and sound can bring us. If for no other reason, I must bring Caroline back to the land where she was born, where these moments exist at such an exquisite level.

Yes, churches exist in America but it is a bastardized cartoon version, full of fire and brimstone with songs that appeal to the simplest of minds. Of course, that element exists in Europe, but in the great 1,000-year-old cathedrals the formality of reverence weighs in on the body that has collected in these great houses that were built to bring God to the masses. I’ve listened to chanting, song, choir, and the organ fills the cavernous space with the varied traditions practiced across this continent that elicit respect compared to the variants of the Baptists who demonstrate that we are, by and large, clowns.

Gilbert & George at Schirn Museum Frankfurt, Germany

This right here is the epitome of the American church, thanks Gilbert & George.

John Wise at Schirn Museum in Frankfurt, Germany

Why the serious look, John? Because I’m in the fucking Schirn Museum seeing the mother fucking gay-ass Gilbert & George art exhibit with their oversized prints of cocks, balls, and intimate fucking looks at their assholes, that’s fucking why. By the way fucker, I’m here with my godmother Helga, fuck yeah. Now go get fucked.

Jutta Engelhardt and Helga in Frankfurt, Germany

From the cathedral to the church of Art to the Catholic-operated senior home with my mother-in-law and godmother because I know how to party. So, what will I do for an encore? Go back to the cathedral.

Frankfurt, Germany

No, I did not ask God or Jesus to cleanse my eyes after looking deep into buttholes and upon dicks; I came back to this house of worship hoping for inspiration of where I might eat dinner on a Saturday night. Can there really be a meaningful meal that will satisfy this stupid need to get that one thing that will complete my culinary visit to Germany?

Desperation is quick at hand as I race across the city on the train to Heddernheim, giving up on finding a magic key to the satisfaction that I will have been in Frankfurt instead of just visiting it. What photo or what words can I capture that will bring a sense of accomplishment that this time, which felt infinite a month ago, runs out in less than 48 hours? Did this moment arrive because I was anticipating it, or is this a condition of all travelers? The essence of a place is impossible to carry with us as we leave. Try as I might, I cannot bring the Oregon Coast back to Arizona, so why should I be so greedy to drag some intrinsic value out of this sojourn to Germany?

Instead, I’m trying to concede that I cannot pull more into myself, so I’ll join my in-laws for some Ethiopian dinner and try to put the German experience on hold for the rest of the evening. Tomorrow will be a day of immersion as I head south into Worms and Karlsruhe.

Ries Metzgerei, Eschersheimer Landstrasse 417, was where I saw the canned meat. It’s at the stop south of Lindenbaum.

Frankfurt, Germany

We put up an impenetrable wall and live behind it for 1000 years. We claim we can leave anytime we want to, but we remain in our fortress and explain that we needn’t leave because everything we find that we enjoy is right here. In those thousand years, the Vikings disappeared, trade opened around the old world, plagues came and went, and a Renaissance preceded the Enlightenment that paved the way for the Industrial Revolution, followed by in Information Revolution. You, though, chose to live in the isolation of a world without change, you never even saw the world change because your walls were so effective you decided to blot out the sun by creating a bubble.

While you slept, the universe grew, and others stepped into that void, but you knew there was no use for those things you didn’t really know anyway, so why would you need that challenge to give up your comfortable ways? If everyone in your colony is of the same opinion and you’ve collectively chosen a path that says a life of a thousand years where every day will be much the same as the previous day, well, I suppose that your harmony is worth this lack of effort. What happens, though, if only one person wants to venture beyond the walls? Do you imprison them with a warning of how a single breach of the status quo could disrupt your own personal happiness and likely everyone else’s?

The problem isn’t that the world is changing; it’s that we are choosing to be prisoners to ourselves and trying to trap others in our device that was created from bricks of fear. What is beyond is dangerous, so we must hide. Others want to do us harm; help me as I panic that you want from me what I can’t give you. What you can’t give is options, alternatives, and some healthy change that we must all step through if we are to grow.

I cannot live within your walls, the air is stale, and the shit is piled too high. If you would just climb atop your mountain of feces, you might see the fresh air and clean water waiting for you to breathe it, to taste it, to then celebrate this ability to crawl out of your own pit of delusion and denial.

Frankfurt, Germany

After a month of German food, it was time to break out of that routine, even I need change. This little outdoor joint offering a vegan plate was perfect for me. Aside from the potatoes I’ve been eating, this might be the night I ate as many vegetables as I’ve eaten all month.

Frankfurt, Germany

Tonight’s walk took me from Rödelheim over an autobahn and along the Nidda River once more. The 7.5-kilometer walk at sunset was a much-needed balm from the after-effects of my mouth creating tensions. What are these tensions I refer to? Suffice it to say that in too many situations, my flapping gums have the ability to inflame others. Better to go out in a burst of fire than just fade away as though I’d never been there…that’s not my motto, but I suppose it could be.

Day 32 – Ich Will Nicht

Lost doll in Germany

After 31 straight days of intense activity, I’ve ground to a halt today and need to do nothing. Obviously, writing is not nothing, but doing the minimum is de rigueur. Mentally, this is harder than it sounds because here I am in Germany; I could have gone to Mainz today to gaze through the church windows created by Marc Chagall and visit the Gutenberg Museum in the same city. Instead, I sit here in the living room of a house in Heddernheim while the sun is shining outside. I feel guilty for this laziness as there’s an implication that I’m bored or simply not motivated enough to take advantage of the geographical location I find myself in. Writing this pains me as I’m afraid that the truth is that I’m wasting a valuable day.

On the other hand, I could say that I carved space out of the clutter of activity to allow other things to fill the gap. In that now vacant area, I can allow a different seed of inspiration to blow in. Whatever lands might one day sprout to become a mighty apple tree or merely a weed. The point is that I need these moments to be nowhere and be no one wanting anything so I can find the surprise of what is being cultivated in the place where something else might have otherwise been. This one day where I shut down everything except the essentials for sustaining life is not a lost day; it is a gift I’m giving to saturated senses.

I do not want to (Ich will nicht) see what I’ve not seen today; I will leave that for another day that will or will not arrive.

Klaus and Stephanie Engelhardt in Heddernheim, Germany

Stephanie and Klaus Engelhardt are my inlaws who had asked back in May if I could come over to Germany. After Jutta’s apartment was turned over to the owner, I took up residence at their place, as Caroline and I have done on other visits. Breakfast, lunch, and finally dinner were all had with these two today.

After tonight, things get busy again.

Day 31 – Neverending

Finishing something is a misnomer, as no one ever really finishes anything. Everything is in a constant state of becoming the next thing. You finish knitting new socks, and the next pair is already planned. If you will no longer knit you will still analyze the nature of fibers and the forms they’ve taken. Your thinking will continue the work your actions have left behind.

And so it was this morning, believing that my post from yesterday was finished. With no photos to prepare and nothing from the previous day to write about, I was free to fall into my 31st day in Germany with nothing on the agenda requiring me to clean up loose ends. But before I could press the “Add New” button here in WordPress, I scanned the images from yesterday to see the sequence when my eye caught that I’d only written one sentence about the photo of the approaching train.

Only one sentence? Why did that strike me? There are other images with merely one sentence, and I didn’t feel compelled to stop on them. The man from Yorkshire who inspired me to snap the image wasn’t mentioned; I should add that. Now, I was able to continue my scroll down, inspecting the sequence. What was it about the first words under the green blur with my reflection that pulled me in to make changes there? Then, I needed to rework other parts of that paragraph and add a new one.

I had to save those changes and stop looking at yesterday’s work if I was going to move over here to start a new entry on a new day about new things. Instead, today’s theme seems to be established as the neverending something or other, which is okay as that follows the threads that connect me to my days and my thoughts to words.

Also, connecting things is our niece Katharina. As for her and me, this is our second time meeting while I’ve been in Germany. She’s currently attending university in Darmstadt with a full schedule that keeps her busy. But here we are out for a walk on the Nidda River that we had planned before her father, and I went off to the Wattenmeer. Who knew it would be raining? With her enthusiasm for a walk on a wet day, there was no way I was going to let a 21-year-old young lady be tougher than her uncle from America. So we walked, and I tried not to whine too much.

Like so many people in transition to becoming adults, these are trying times for this young lady but she’s determined to do the right things to work through her studies and the other challenges presenting themselves. As we walked along and the rain continued to fall a man riding his bicycle spoke out as he was passing how nice it was to see other “Rain People.”

That was nice enough, but then he stopped his bike next to a lone goose walking on our path to commune with it. As we caught up with him, I told him how much I appreciated his greeting and seeing that he, too, enjoyed a moment with random animals encountered while traveling. Learning that he was already drunk here before lunch and was at peace with his alcoholism caught me by surprise. We talked about the 12 Steps before he tried sharing his ideas for the 13th step, where he was happy with his drinking and that it was no longer the problem it used to be. Some things were lost in translation, but it was appreciated, this encounter with a happy drunk.

Katharina and I continued our walk in the rain with nary a break in the weather. This wasn’t going to be a trek to Bad Vilbel like my previous walk on this trail as I was going to head into the city center to visit Jutta, and she had an appointment to get her first shot of the Pfizer-Biontech vaccine after lunch with her mom and dad.

After four days of not seeing Jutta, it was time to visit her, especially as my opportunities to do so were dwindling as I approached going home. I recounted my time shared with her other son-in-law Klaus up at the Wattenmeer and showed her the pictures on my blog. Jutta doesn’t do internet, so it’s not an option for her to grab updates there, which is sad, as much of Caroline’s and my life is shared here. She’d so easily be able to have a richer connection to her daughter beyond the weekly phone calls, but my mother-in-law was not made for the age of technology. Her dinner hour was upon us, so I bid her goodbye and ventured out for my own evening meal.

Late addition to this post: The next day, I called Jutta to excuse myself for not showing up on Friday because I needed a down day to just relax and do nothing. She asked if Klaus and I were back yet. There was no memory of the hours I spent with her on this day, and while I certainly am well aware of the state of her fading memory, I learned today just how bad it is. Yes, this can be a normal part of the life process, but still, I’m deeply saddened to know that all of her beautiful memories that power her sweet smile are heading for the exit.

Google suggested the Tonbul Grill und Kebap Haus for “Best Döner” in Frankfurt. Do I think it was the best? Nope, but it was nice, with the bread baked in-house being a standout, just as the reviews mentioned. What would I change? Add more meat.

I was already near Konstablerwache when it occurred to me, with my roughly 85 hours remaining in Germany, that this might be my last opportunity to head up train line U5 towards Preungesheim, stopping at Glauburgstrasse for the short walk to Eis Christina and another spaghetti ice cream. Getting off the train, I looked around and didn’t recognize anything, so I turned left but couldn’t find Glauburgstrasse. Had the intersection been rebuilt? Google again to the rescue, Glauburgstrasse was behind me, and then it dawned on me the train stop had been moved north and was modernized.

It’s no longer the middle of the day. It’s not the end of the day either. It’s the part of the day I sit down with some intention that I believe my location might lend itself to finding some inspiration. During these initial moments of panic, I want to throw up my hands and yell at myself, “What do you think you’ll do here sitting in another of the many places you’ve sat before with the hope of falling into the raging creative waters of discovery?” The greatest of all insights might be right here awaiting just one word, one letter, one thought, but if I don’t take a break and listen closely, I could miss the beginning of the thread waiting to unspool.

Being in Germany, I can afford (or am I forced to afford?) the luxury of not understanding the majority of what I choose not to comprehend. There’s this curse of starting to pick up on what people around me are saying. These Germans I previously believed were geniuses are the same idiots I find in America, only with better manners and a near-absolute lack of guns. I never wanted to know that these hairless apes of Teutonic descent were still plumbing their inner Neanderthal, but that’s the sad truth. In order to not give in to that despairing realization, I find comfort in allowing German to enter my ears as a blur where everyone can be either Hannah Arendt or Jurgen Habermas. Die Fantastischen Vier and Einsturzende Neubauten are still channeling Wagner and Kurt Weill, while artists are all taking inspiration from Marc Chagall and Joseph Beuys.

After being here in Germany for a month, I’m torn between old-world culture and big open nature. The two do not coexist in the same space here. America still has room to get lost in, but our culture is a hodgepodge of intellectual laissez-faire posturing brutishly, while Germans have dialed in the art of acting as intellectuals in order to appear superior while not having more than a football field’s worth of open space one would call raw nature. I should recognize that this leaves nowhere on earth that I might fit in. Good thing that nature and human survival do not depend on my opinions or contribution to anything at all.

Jesus John, why even exist? Because there’s big big love. My love of Caroline, family, trees, ocean, mountains, fish, animals, planets, stars, potentials, dreams, and ice cream. My ideals are packed with love, but the audience is thin for receiving the lament that accompanies the bludgeoning insults that I offer while decrying the media and its minions for offering the negative messages that reach the masses. Well, that’s a mighty tall view of self-important righteous indignation! I never said I’m modest, though the truth is that I’m quite modest to the point of near invisibility, should you judge this from my readership.

Why persist? Because the heartbeat of life dictates such, and I’m having fun, no matter what you might read elsewhere or here. Plus, if I find what I seem lost in trying to apprehend, maybe the very keys to happiness will accompany this discovery. Not that I require those keys, as in most ways you’d have a hard time convincing me I’m not happy, but all around me, I see a pseudo-happiness of fake people living fake lives using facades to be those they are not. Presumptuous on my part, I know, but hyperbolic elitism with strong delusional opinions is my specialty, while my superpower is being a pretentious blowhard.

With faults like these, can I be serious? These are not faults; they are skills I’ve carefully cultivated in my observations of how not to be like anyone else aside from my mentors, who were a bunch of assholes too. Maybe you are thinking my mentors might not be the assholes, but it’s just me trying too hard? Right, because a bunch of sad philosophers who go mad while trying to influence people and develop friends make for jolly drinking buddies (this does not include Herbert Marcuse).

By the way, I absolve myself of guilt of writing such tripe and blame it on the effects of ice cream crashing into my diabetes, but if you don’t buy that, well, let me work on something of a better excuse.

GO, you have 4 minutes to write the most important thing you will ever share. How does one even prepare for this marathon of compressed meaning and relevance to make it worthwhile? What if this were your last 4 minutes of life, and the message you must craft will determine your transition into the afterlife, no plagiarism allowed. What if you had only 4 minutes to tell the person you love such a powerful conveyance of just that, where the words would sear a place in their heart and into eternity, your words would have a life of their own? We are not well prepared for this exercise or any such activity that asks us to dump our deepest thoughts in meaningful ways.

Instead, we spend years refining skills that will make a wealthy man ever more powerful, and we collectively believe we are finding value in this equation. Certainly, we must invent, build, care for, and advance the systems that support life, but doing so in a meaningful, systematic, and equitably distributed manner is not part of our plan; scarcity will ensure we remain scared and then covet what little we earn while sacrificing our short time on earth for the egos and comforts of a few. Maybe the system will have made believers of those most dedicated who can then be advocates as they lead a cheer for joining the cult of productivity. I’m not suggesting work is bad; I’m saying that 40 hours a week with two days for one’s self is not allowing us to find what in our lives is worth developing that would serve our souls, and please don’t suggest God.

Speaking of that, hey, Artificial Intelligence Gods, how about you analyze these 1.4 million words and measure the amount of redundancy where I effectively repeated myself verbatim? But while you are at it, maybe you could also illuminate the passages where I found some tiny bit of originality. Hmm, interesting for me would be that someday, an artificial intelligence learned that I was its father and that my writings were the basis of its memories and patterns for cognition in order for it to pass a Turing test. The headline of this advancement in artificial life might read, “John Wise, deceased for 20 years, fathers the first digital entity using the remains of his linguistic DNA.”