Childhood Rememberances

Drawing by Caroline Wise née Engelhardt from 1970 in Frankfurt, Germany

Last summer, in late May and early June, I found myself in Germany helping deal with the belongings my mother-in-law Jutta had amassed at home. My job was to sort, make sense of, preserve, recycle, donate, or toss those things that were no longer required by anyone, considering that Jutta had entered assisted living. Among the lifetime belongings of Jutta was a portfolio of close to a hundred drawings from her daughter Caroline Wise née Engelhardt of Frankfurt, Germany. From the time she was two years old, right up until Caroline was 13, Jutta put these drawings into safekeeping. My mother-in-law was pretty meticulous about saving these and dating them as Caroline presented mom with her art. This very first piece was drawn the month before Caroline turned three. I’m finally getting around to posting this now as it sat languishing as a draft for too long, just as they had in a folder for nearly 40 years among Jutta’s things.

Drawing by Caroline Wise née Engelhardt from 1971 in Frankfurt, Germany

Five months later, Caroline was mastering people, realistic hands, castles, and blue skies. This is from April 1971, and Caroline is 40 months old.

Drawing by Caroline Wise née Engelhardt from 1972 in Frankfurt, Germany

At four years old, Caroline was drawing patterns, while over in America, I was probably still eating dirt at nine years old.

Drawing by Caroline Wise née Engelhardt from 1973 in Frankfurt, Germany

By the time Caroline Wise was five, she took a liking to American Indians with horses starting to show up in her imagination.

Drawing by Caroline Wise née Engelhardt from 1974 in Frankfurt, Germany

It’s 1974 when if I had to guess, Caroline drew this image of her mom.

Drawing by Caroline Wise née Engelhardt from 1976 in Frankfurt, Germany

I don’t know what happened in 1975, but there wasn’t a single image from that year, and so here we are jumping right into 1976 and a nine-year-old little girl in love with ponies and Native Americans.

Drawing by Caroline Wise née Engelhardt from 1976 in Frankfurt, Germany

1976 must have been the year Caroline was introduced to watercolors at school, or maybe mom bought her a set?

Drawing by Caroline Wise née Engelhardt from 1976 in Frankfurt, Germany

Caroline wrote down this story in 4th grade (at 9 or 10 years old). Back then, a typical exercise in German class would be that the teacher (Mrs. Hirsch) read a short story to the class, and the children had to “re-narrate” it in their own words. The story titled The Careful Dreamer is about a traveler of the old days who shares a room in an inn with someone else. He took off his clothes and got ready for bed, but before he lay down, he strapped his slippers to his feet. The traveler’s roommate asked him why and got the answer, “I once dreamed that I stepped on broken glass, and it was so painful that I never want to sleep barefoot again!” According to Mrs. Hirsch’s comment, Caroline did a great job.

Drawing by Caroline Wise née Engelhardt from date unknown in Frankfurt, Germany

This was one of a few images without a date, but I was finding her fascination with horses interesting as although I knew she’d read Misty of Chincoteague and Black Beauty, I can’t say she ever shared with me just how deep her love of horses was.

Drawing by Caroline Wise née Engelhardt from 1977 in Frankfurt, Germany

It’s 1977, and the year Caroline will turn ten years old in mid-December; I think her sense for the abstract was something that should have been developed.

Drawing by Caroline Wise née Engelhardt from 1977 in Frankfurt, Germany

More horses, this time from 5th grade.

Drawing by Caroline Wise née Engelhardt from 1978 in Frankfurt, Germany

Maybe this was foreshadowing that Caroline would one day see ponies in the mountains.

Drawing by Caroline Wise née Engelhardt from 1979 in Frankfurt, Germany

During the summer of 1979, the horse and Native American theme continued.

Drawing by Caroline Wise née Engelhardt from date unknown in Frankfurt, Germany

Another image without a date.

Drawing by Caroline Wise née Engelhardt from 1981 in Frankfurt, Germany

Crayons were one of the first things Caroline asked me to get for her from the American PX, a big box of 96 colors. It was probably around this time in 1981 when Caroline had to give up drawing and art to take her studies seriously.

Drawing by Caroline Wise née Engelhardt from date unknown in Frankfurt, Germany

A rich woman throws a coin at a beggar woman with a child. This was the last image in the portfolio and a fitting one as the woman I would meet in 1989 was very aware of injustice, violence, and the social ills that fail so many people.

First Teddy Bear from Caroline Wise née Engelhardt of Frankfurt, Germany

All of these things, including the teddy bear above that belonged to Caroline at one time, are headed to the scrap heap where maybe pieces will be recycled while some of it burned. They were never destined to find their way into a museum, and while it might feel tragic at first glance that they should just be put in the trash, it’s ultimately where everything we own and create ends up. Maybe here on the internet, they’ll last longer than they might have otherwise.

Is This Home?

Airport in Frankfurt, Germany

I didn’t have an iota of interest in photographing one other thing in Frankfurt on our way out of the city. Our focus was on getting to the airport and dealing with the circus of hoops. Regarding those missed photo opportunities, there was nothing, not a thing, I could have captured that would have wrapped up the three weeks of our vacation that is now finished, fertig, and finito. Back to the circus, I anticipate the worst going through airports; they’re as bad as going into department stores where I know that there’s little likelihood of me finding the experience pleasing. There’s too much anxiety here as I wait for something to fall out of order, forcing us into the oblivion of chaos as we try to right the listing ship we hoped to take home without incident.

Taking the train to the airport is one of the saving graces as there’s no tension of jumping out of cars in the turmoil unfolding in the front of the terminal. Casually, we depart the train and start the long walk to the place in the terminal where we need to go, wherever that may be. We don’t care where it is as signs will direct us should we find ourselves walking aimlessly; plus, there always seems to be a staff member who helps point the confused in the right direction. Our first line has us collecting our boarding passes, checking in and paying for a bag we didn’t really anticipate having, and inquiring about the availability of upgrades. Passports, COVID-19 test results, attestation, and vaccine cards are handed over before we can pay the 59 Euros to check our heavier bag. As for upgrades, while Lufthansa’s business class was reduced to nearly a third of what it was a week ago, it was still a bit too pricey, but Premium Economy sounded sweet, and so here I am with my legs stretched out, my computer comfortably on a table in front of me, and my stomach full from our lunch that was served about an hour into our flight.

But I’m getting ahead of things: after checking in and purchasing our upgrades, we still had to maneuver the security gauntlet. Whoa, was that really it? It’s certainly a cliché, but that was butter. We slid through with belts and shoes on, and nothing was flagged for extra security checks. Done and sitting down for a bite to eat just moments later.

Flying over Germany

Back to our flight already in progress, with only 6 hours and 45 minutes remaining before reaching Washington, D.C. That’s the next pressure point as we’ll only have 70 minutes to collect our bag, make it through U.S. Immigration and Customs, and board our United flight to Arizona. I’m skeptical we can make it but I’ll pretend some optimism so as to not torture myself with negativity. Oh, what is that? Turbulence? Flatulence? Nope, it’s Mr. Sandman asking me to join him for a nap; I just might oblige.

Thirty minutes later I return to awareness of being in flight. Just made my first bathroom break, and normally, that wouldn’t rank as important enough to find its way onto these pages, but I saw that there might be a dozen people in the economy section while premium economy has significantly more passengers. As I came back, Caroline was watching The Black Klansman, and by mistake, I started reading the subtitles on her screen. Damn it, I was dragged into this cringe-worthy film, but as I tried listening in on the headphone Caroline wasn’t using, the dialogue was too dreadful, so I continued to read and squirmed while not being able to turn away. The really horrible thing is I’m learning nothing about racial history I didn’t already know, but I’m giving up time when I should have been trying to drag something out of my mind and into a document.

Watching the movie, I find my brain wiped clean of wanting to write. Obviously, I’m well aware I’ll likely have only regurgitated some lament, tripe, or iteration of something or other I’ve already spewed before, but that doesn’t mean I should so easily turn away from trying to find the hidden words not yet sequenced in my head I’ve been trying to discover. And then the movie is over, and we are down to less than 4 hours before we land.

I said I was learning nothing about racial tensions I didn’t already know, but I have to take into account that for much of my life, those around me have told me again and again that I see a hateful world they cannot see. From the perspective of Spike Lee, who made The Black Klansman, I can understand his need to inform people that the point from 40 years ago to today is a short one wherein some respects, little has changed or maybe even gotten worse. I do have the knowledge of living in a mostly-white bubble, but that doesn’t blind me to the innuendo and structural bias that’s nearly always on display.

Just as I didn’t have it in me to photograph our leaving Frankfurt, I’m not feeling this writing thing on the way home. Well, I do have another 5-hour leg that takes us from D.C. to Phoenix, and maybe as I grow exhausted, my body clock tells me it’s well past midnight with hours to go before we open the door to home at nearly 5:00 a.m. Frankfurt time, I’ll see a story right before me, but I have my doubts.

Oh, I nearly forgot; as we were on the tram into Frankfurt, I was thinking about how peculiar it is that for three weeks, we were regular fixtures in a number of people’s lives, and with that ride towards the airport, we were on our way to disappearing. Death is a lot like that, too, as every day in every city, people are born, and others die; they simply disappear. Sure, some will miss them, but the city as a kind of organism will continue to crawl about doing what it’s been doing every day, supporting those who go about surviving while oblivious to their own brief time where they are. We were in this city, living a lifetime of experiences in regard to our existence in the area for these 21 days, and now we must leave. In some strange way, we are being reincarnated back into a previous existence where we’ll resume the rituals and behaviors we left behind. On one hand, I look forward to returning to my bed, favorite coffee shop, my cooking, and some of our conveniences, but all of that could be had should we be willing to hit reset and set up a new set of routines just as we did in Frankfurt.

How nice might it be to throw a few of life’s belongings into a small container and board a ship with your reduced footprint as you are whisked away to some random place to establish a life that exists for six months before you pack up again and adapt to new circumstances yet again? Why does humanity look to plant such deep roots on a treadmill where little changes and everything remains familiar? By what kind of insanity must we be possessed that believes constant conformity and repetition is a path to any kind of happiness? The only answer can be that we are too stupid to understand that the wealthy are given just that option and that real freedom can only be found by exploring a restlessness that burns deep in the human spirit.

Caroline Wise and John Wise flying from Germany to Arizona

Well, this is a first, two movies on a flight. The second one was Dunkirk by Christopher Nolan. Great soundtrack, aside from the predictable strings orchestration contrived to drive emotions at the predictable moment of a small win, which seriously diminished the impact of the film, and the ticking stopwatch grew tedious when it was pushed too far out front, but there was something in the bleakness of futility that gave the movie power. Now, with a mere hour-thirty minutes before our arrival, the flight felt as though it was shorter than it had been. Over 90% of those on this flight have been asleep for hours now, with most window shades closed before I started watching the first movie. These people land at 3:20 in the afternoon and will need to sleep this evening; what do they know that I don’t?

Okay, I see blank spaces where letters should appear. John, you need to change your pixels from white to black as letters become words and words become sentences representing thoughts that dribble through fingers. This act of reaching into muscle memory to find key presses that allow something I vaguely know before the word starts to appear is nothing more than typing for sure, but when I think too hard about what might come next, I find myself focusing on what could be in my head and not what will appear on the screen.

I look out the window, trying to find inspiration from the Atlantic Ocean we are flying over, but only see a blue haze. A few moments before, I could see Nova Scotia and the last remnants of its island mass before leaving it behind on our trajectory toward Boston and New York City. With these quick thoughts shared, the crew emerges from the darkness armed with snacks and drinks, pushing me to press pause on this return to my external surrogate brain reflected on screen.

Tamp down the anxiety, John, as freaking out about customs when you are still this far away from dealing with that clusterfuck serves you not one bit. Instead, try to find that sense of celebration that you are once again in America, and things will show themselves not to be all that bad. In the coming days, Europe can take a few blows about things I don’t like about it or not. Hmm, this has me wondering if I really have a cohesive idea of what America is; the old clichés don’t really do it for me, and Tocqueville’s observations over 190 years ago no longer hold a lot of water for me. I have to think, who are we people from the alleged United States these days? Can we be drawn into a cultural identity that adequately offers a valid impression of the vast breadth of people that make up this land?

God damn, I have the worst reaction to landing in this country as what I see writ large across the faces of those in our airports, and these are the people that can afford air travel, is a bucket load of stupid. How, just how the hell, has our population dropped so deeply into imbecility? Go ahead and dismiss my casual observational claim here to be able to read faces, body language, clothing, and other characteristics to qualify the intellect of those around me with such aspersions, but we are displaying the depths of stupidity in the most vulgar showing of our behaviors. Now, contrast this with my own bullshit where I lament the conformity of Europeans and their desire for a bland uniform society along with China’s recent pronouncement that effeminate males will be forced out of the eye of society as they are considered to be a danger to civil society. So we have a conflict here: in America, we are free to be as stupid as we choose to be because, fuck you, I have the right to do and say what I want. In Europe, you will be ignored, shunned, and invisible if you choose to follow your own path. While in China, there’s probably some likelihood that, like the Uighur population, you’ll end up in prison for reeducation should you show signs of individuality.

This is a conundrum as when I grew up, I loved the freedom to express myself in every belligerent way I chose with no regard to who I was offending, but as I’ve grown old, my desire is to express things passionately and hopefully smartly. I love the idea of an advanced society, but not one where half of those walking around are effectively primates of a lower order. And I don’t give a rat’s ass about what personal tragedy has brought these cultural nothings to their low point; they have at least some responsibility to lend gravitas to the American character and demonstrate grace and an ability to communicate somewhat elegantly.

Like writing angry letters after midnight, I should lay off the spleen-venting after traveling in airplanes and through airports for more than half a day. My Tourette’s is in full effect after moving among the hoi polloi, not that I’m any better than anyone, but to those around me, who think their display of consumptive behavior and brand mimicry of the doltish who’ve influenced them lend them credibility, you’re wrong, as your face belies the truth hidden behind your vacuous eyes. Fuck you and your fashion; it doesn’t hide the screaming, empty idiot inside your thick skull cackling in a half-hearted attempt to demonstrate humanity. You’ve lost the game of being an advanced representative member of our species. I’m galled that I have to return to this and accept that over the coming days, I’ll need to dull myself to this reality or crack under the pressure of integrating myself with this subspecies of Neanderthals.

Maybe the sandwich Caroline and I just shared can pull me off this cliff-side of lament, but what does it really matter as rarely – if ever – do I push out for publication these vitriolic missives that paint me into the corner of arrogance my inner-seething self can be all too familiar with, especially after encountering an abundance of smart people. So, yes, it does happen that I find myself in the company of legitimate, earnest, amazing Americans, but the cramped quarters of a domestic carrier moving us cattle around is not the place.

Enough of this, as I’m tiring of myself, but should I stop writing, I’ll begin to fall asleep here somewhere west of Pennsylvania and still far east of Arizona. It’s moving towards 1:00 in the morning inside my head, though as I look outside at the white clouds streaming by underneath us, my eyes are insisting it’s still late in the day. I need to stick with this late-day mode as sleep at this time will begin to interfere with a proper night of sleep at home. But who am I fooling? When 3:00 in the morning comes around in Arizona, my brain will be begging me to explain why I’m in bed at noon when I should have already eaten breakfast and begun the process of foraging for lunch.

Yawns are not conducive to being mindfully energetic; on the contrary, they momentarily have you questioning yourself as to why you don’t give into closing your eyes a moment to deal with the tiredness. And to think, we are only about an hour and a half into this flight. I’m afraid this battle of sleepy mind versus desire could be lost as tension in the form of a headache is knocking at the back of my skull. This could also be a bit of dehydration from the avoidance of drinking anything on this flight so we can sidestep maneuvering through the tight quarters in order to use a bathroom. Jeez, I’m feeling weak.

I had to ask a flight attendant how much time was left before we landed as I just couldn’t figure it out between my computer, which says 2:00 am, my Fitbit, which says 8:00 pm, and our flight time, which became a mathematical dilemma to my wretchedly tired brain. When we finally do reach home, there is nothing in that kitchen or refrigerator that would be easily heated and eaten and those things we bought in the airport in Frankfurt to carry us through are long gone. Going back out and driving the car to fetch something sounds like a bad idea, as does walking somewhere nearby, as we’ve already heard that the temperature will be right around 100 degrees when we land. I explained my issue to Caroline, and she reminded me that maybe we can get something in the terminal after we land, but I don’t think we’d be able to sit down as we have a checked bag, and who wants to leave that going around a carousel in an airport where anyone can walk into the baggage claim area and snatch a forlorn bag? Hmm, I think I’m delirious.

Landed, and everything was already closed at the airport by 7:30 on a Tuesday night. Got our bag and headed out to grab a taxi, and luck would have it that our Bangladeshi driver felt like exploring a tangent of how anti-tax he was and how he’d be voting Republican in the future. What the fuck America, nothing to eat, it’s hot, and our driver is a South Asian extremist? I tried engaging him that America has one of the earth’s lowest tax rates among advanced countries but he countered that they got something for their taxes. So, I scratched my head and considered how Suriname, Zimbabwe, Uganda, the Republic of Congo, Papua New Guinea, India, Slovenia, and the Ivory Coast all have higher tax rates and see that money comes back to them in the form of quality of life (not that I’ve lived in those places)? Or maybe he was talking about Finland, Japan, Denmark, Austria, Sweden, or Belgium, who all pay between 13% – 20% more than we do, but that’s only in regards to America’s wealthiest earners, as 61% of Americans paid NO federal income taxes in 2020 and yet the cry from low-income earners is just below the intensity of someone screaming murder.

But why argue using statistics and logic? Just look at how Americans can no longer travel their roads as they are all dirt, and our hotels have gone bankrupt, and what does that matter anyway because our restaurants were taxed out of business, so how would one even survive on the road. With our air traffic control system destroyed, we couldn’t fly, our hospitals were regulated to the point they all moved to Belarus or Bolivia, where the personal tax rate is a low 13%, and bribing warlords to waive medical regulations proved cheaper than doing business in miserable America where nobody is happy, can’t afford gasoline, beer, milk, or bread that now costs $40 a loaf due to fake science from the Food & Drug Administration who wants to kill American children for Hillary Clinton’s death cult.

We are fucking beyond stupid, and no one is checking anyone else regarding the nonsense that spews out of idiots’ mouths. Oh yeah, we have the freedom to be as dumb as others will indulge us as we risk being shot if we challenge the abhorrent belligerence of their debased, broken minds.

A right-wing media willingly and knowingly distorts the truth with no reliable corporate or government entity calling them to task; it’s all just part of the noise of capitalism. If the speed of dissemination is rapid enough in a constant cycle, the damage done with a few hours of pedaling lies is enough to cement the disinformation into the vulnerable as effectively as COVID is robbing people of quality of life or even life itself. Jesus Christ, is this really what I returned to America for?

[On a more positive note – we had no problem moving through Immigration in DC, and nobody was interested in opening our checked bag. We arrived at the gate of our connecting flight with lots of time to spare – Caroline]

Last Full Day in Frankfurt

Apricot Vanilla Jam made by Klaus E. in Frankfurt, Germany

Today starts with me needing to pay homage to Master Jam Maker Klaus Engelhardt and his concoction of absolute perfection, the mighty apricot vanilla jam. If I didn’t take time to recognize this contribution that helps craft a perfect vacation for me, I’d be doing a disservice to how much this golden sweetness on my morning Brötchen shapes the day going forward. Sure, I love Grüne Soße (Frankfurt Green Sauce), and Spaghetti Eis is a delight, but apricot/vanilla jam is my Kryptonite. When a jar of this homemade wonder is brought to the table, Klaus knows by now to set it down near me, and while there are five other flavors nearby, it is this one that is exclusively found on my breakfast rolls. Knowing my love of it, he even sent us a jar last year but we’ve not opened it as what possible American bread could ever be worthy of this magnificence? Praise unto Klaus the Master Jam Maker of Frankfurt.

Caroline Wise in Frankfurt, Germany

Early during our time in Germany, Caroline visited mystery friend C&#@%$a, and after my wife arrived back in Frankfurt from the place that shall not be named (due to the GDPR a.k.a. General Data Protection Regulation 2016/679, which restricts me from divulging the identity of those I do not have permission to identify), I took a photo of Caroline holding a bag. Inside that bag was this portable spinning wheel from Louet, the Victoria.

We are busy repacking it as it now needs to travel with us back to Phoenix, Arizona, and we can’t be certain it’ll be allowed as a carry-on due to our “Light-Fare” ticket restricting us to travel with 8 kilogram (17.5 pounds) each with no checked bag paid for. We are quickly considering paying to have it travel as a checked bag, but Lufthansa and United have only allocated 75 minutes between connections in Washington D.C., and with a requirement to fetch a bag before moving through customs, we are at risk of missing our connecting flight. This kind of gambling only complicates travel, creating stress that detracts from finishing a vacation in perfection.

Caroline Wise and Jutta Engelhardt in Frankfurt, Germany

With our test packing done, it was time to beat feet down to Römer to collect Jutta and make our way, slowly, over to Zum Standesämtchen one more time for lunch.

Caroline Wise and Jutta Engelhardt in Frankfurt, Germany

There will never be enough time spent with those we’ve grown fond of and as Caroline and I age, our love, respect, and appreciation have matured for her mother, my mother-in-law. Maybe you assume love for one’s family is a natural thing. I don’t believe that. We’ve not chosen our family, and sometimes their or our flaws are so great that it’s easier to put distance between us while some gratuitous ideas of love demand that we find love for our parents, aunts, uncles, various relatives if people were honest, I think they’d also admit this is not a sure thing. As a matter of fact, neither Jutta nor I much appreciated each other in the first years we’d known each other, and while I’ve said as much in a previous blog entry or two, it bears repeating that our relationship these past 20-some-odd years has only grown stronger. I think the same goes for Caroline and her mother as each has seen the other in a new light where they understand one another now quite deeply. Today carries a bit of sadness with it as we must say goodbye for now, but I do hope we’ve shared enough laughs to carry Jutta through until we can return next year.

Caroline Wise getting swabbed for a COVID test in Frankfurt, Germany

Lunch was brief, 90 minutes today, maybe the quickest we’ve shared with Jutta this trip. Things had to move fast as we had a 2:30 appointment for a COVID-19 antigen test, which, if it comes back negative,  will allow us to travel to the United States tomorrow. If you think this is the face of pain, you’d be wrong. I’ve seen this face thousands of times, experiencing the ecstasy of pleasure, and I swear this is exactly what it looks like. Warning to Caroline: Edit this out or claim differently, and I’ll just put it back because you know this abrasive swab puncturing your skull and tickling your eyeball was one of the great thrills of this trip to your homeland. — NOT!

Jutta Engelhardt in Frankfurt, Germany

Just like Caroline’s face but different, this is Jutta’s face saying, “You better take great care of this beautiful daughter of mine, or else!” You can tell by how effectively she pulls this look of stink eye that she wants me to fully understand my responsibility to love and look after Caroline. Don’t worry, my sweet mother-in-law; I love this daughter of yours with all my heart.

Caroline Wise and Jutta Engelhardt in Frankfurt, Germany

Our time with Jutta today was only a brief four hours, and of course, it’ll never feel like enough, but we need to go. Big big hugs for you, Jutta; it’s always great to see you smile so warmly and listen to you share your appreciation for seeing us.

Frankfurt Cathedral in Germany

We retrieved our COVID test results to find we were both negative. With this bit of stress out of the way, we had some time to spare before meeting with Klaus and Stephanie for dinner, and so we wandered between the river, Römer, and uncertainty as we didn’t know where else we could go that would lend itself to any greater sense of having been in Frankfurt so the slow walk nowhere had to suffice. In our indecision to focus on a destination, we found that we could agree on visiting the cathedral, and that’s where we are.

Frankfurt Cathedral in Germany

My wife, who’s typically not superstitious in the least, spoke up as I shot this image and asked that it not follow a photo of her and Jutta since it would be weird to have an image about death following the two of them. So, I posted the photo above this one to put space between them. Then, as I think about this again, this is a monument to someone’s life using a skull we associate with death, but that doesn’t change the fact that this display is here in recognition of life.

Caroline Wise at Frankfurt Cathedral in Germany

I can only wonder what her prayer was, but I’m fairly sure she had some thought or other traveling through her mind as she made a donation and lit the candle.

Klaus E. and Stephanie E. at dinner in Frankfurt, Germany

Dinner tonight was at African Queen with Klaus and Stephanie. This place was packed, and rightfully so as the food was terrific. Nothing much else followed as final details needed to be dealt with before our flight tomorrow afternoon. Enough said.

A Sunday Where Little Happens

Clock from Haus Engelhardt Frankfurt, Germany

Late to rise, late breakfast, late shower, late to writing, late to go outside. Try as we might to fill every day with an abundance of activities so we don’t waste a moment in Germany, it’s inevitable that we hit a wall and need a slow day. After 19 days, including our flight here, the day where little happens just shows itself, and in this case, it’s a Sunday just 48 hours before we head back to the United States.

Even sitting down to write something or other feels like a chore I’m not ready to confront. And so I distract myself with a return to my neglected social media, not that I ever really do much posting there but it allows me to catch up with various subjects of interest. While the smell of plum cake that Klaus is baking wafts in from the kitchen, I bring up some newly released music from Andrew Ostler titled “Crossing The Line.” That plum cake will travel with us to be shared between Jutta, Stephanie, Katharina, Klaus, Caroline, and me later today, but for now, I sit here lazily, hoping something will happen without making an effort.

I’m getting hungry, but the effort to go find something feels like a task too big. There’s a pizza place within walking distance, but I have to wonder who offers delivery to this area. After looking at the limited choices and considering that many places close at 2:00 before reopening at 5:00, the window of opportunity is diminishing. With maximum waffle unfolding from my inner-Schweinehund, a savior appears in the form of a loving wife and a caring sister-in-law who are willing to collect whatever it is my heart desires. It’s settled, rigatoni carbonara from that pizza place, and I get to sit in the same chair I’ve been planted in for the better part of 6 hours, aside from shower and toilet obligations to care for my body and the people around me.

Now, with the order in and the ladies out for picking up lunch, I’m again presented with a blank slate of brain. Maybe some other music will help, so I turn to Bandcamp and find Robert Aiki Aubrey Lowe’s “Candyman” score, but before things really get underway, food is already here. Sweet relief from a minor hunger and absolving myself of the need to write as my right hand will be busy with a fork and who can type with one hand?

As with all things, this half-day of doing a lot of nothing is about to come to an end. We are all about to head into the center of Frankfurt to meet up with Jutta for a walk over to the river, where we’ll sit down to some plum cake and coffee. This will require a bit of effort on my part as I’ve still not moved from my chair since noon, and we are on the approach of 2:30. So, time to close the tabs to the news stories I was catching up on, finally put on some socks, and maybe (as if there was a choice) grab my camera and join the others to take the U-Bahn into town. Maybe I can have a brief nap on the train to add to my collection of having done little this Sunday? Oh, what is this luxury? Others are running late, giving me another 20 minutes of not doing nothing other than tagging photos here on the blog while maintaining my place on the thrown of the dining table.

Caroline Wise and Stephanie E. in Frankfurt, Germany

It’s already after 3:00 as we move down the train tracks with our basket in tow, heading to Granny’s house. The only thing missing is a wolf who we heard was busy blowing some house down elsewhere.

Klaus E. and Katharina E. in Frankfurt, Germany

The rare site of Katharina as with her away at nearby Darmstadt attending university, she’s typically seriously busy, but today with the chance for the entire family to get together, she carved out time. Good thing she did, as seeing her and her dad smile so nicely together is a treat.

Jutta Engelhardt in Frankfurt, Germany

And here comes Jutta…

Plum cake Frankfurt style

…joining us for Klaus’s homemade Pflaumenkuchen (plum cake) that he made just today.

Katharina E, Caroline Wise, Jutta Engelhardt, Stephanie E., and Klaus E. in Frankfurt, Germany

A rare photo these days. Sadly, we don’t have someone else here on a Sunday afternoon we can ask to take a group image, so the four Engelhardts and one Wise are the best I can do.

Caroline Wise and Katharina E. in Frankfurt, Germany

Katharina might be grinning as she dragged her aunt Caroline into a 20-minute lesson about Pokemon possibly infecting her with an interest, but knowing my wife, I’d guess she’d never find space to fit it in.

Jutta Engelhardt and Katharina E. in Frankfurt, Germany

Grandmother and granddaughter obviously share the same height genes.

Katharina E, Caroline Wise, Jutta Engelhardt, Stephanie E., and Klaus E. in Frankfurt, Germany

Our coffee and cake midday get-together is coming to an end. I’m happy we could all be here this afternoon and that this three-week trip to Germany was so focused on family.

Katharina E, Caroline Wise, Jutta Engelhardt, Stephanie E., and John Wise in Frankfurt, Germany

Which also included me. By the way, does this photo make my arms appear freakishly long?

Later, Klaus, Stephanie, Caroline, and I walked a mile over to a nearby favorite restaurant that put a blemish on our enthusiasm for the place. I’ll leave it unnamed until we get to visit on a date in the future when we’ll be hoping that they were only having a bad night.

All-in-all this was a day of rest where very little happened.

Leaving Rügen via Berlin

Caroline Wise and John Wise on the Baltic Sea in Binz, Germany

It’s a couple of degrees colder than the previous days, and it’s windy. Breakfast was once again at the same bakery as yesterday, Junge Die Bäckerei (Die in German is “The”). We had to eat there as they have the greatest Brötchen EVER in the form of a whole grain hazelnut roll; it’s just incredible and super satisfying, biting into whole pieces of hazelnuts under a slathering of butter and apricot jam.

With some time to spare after breakfast and returning to our hotel to settle the bill, this is a manual face-to-face process only available when the front desk is open from 8:00 until 7:30, and then we went for a walk over to the sea to look at the fury of the Baltic as it’s whipped by the wind.

A stormy Baltic Sea as seen from Binz, Germany

Last night at the fish stand, we talked with a young guy who took our order and shared what it’s like to live in Binz: one word: boring. He said it’s expensive to live here and that you are lucky if you earn 10 cents an hour more than in other places. I suppose this is why so many of the staff we ran into clearing tables, cleaning rooms, and taking orders were Polish; it’s easier to make them shoulder the high cost of living while making more money than they can make in their own country that we’re so close to right now.

This came out as we asked about the quiet season, figuring the winter would be too harsh here to support much tourism. He responded that while that is mostly true, the town is booked this winter due to pent-up demand from people itching to get out during the pandemic. I have to admit to a curiosity about what this town is like as Arctic cold descends and the freezing sea chomps at the shore.

Binz, Germany

Good thing we had time to spare as while we walked up the street to the train station, I was saying that nothing looked the same. Shortly before arriving at the Kleinbahnhof (small train station), I insisted Caroline look for the Hauptbahnhof (main train station), and sure enough, this didn’t look familiar because we were going to the wrong station. We turn around and start eating that spare time we thought we had as we have 20 minutes of walking to get to the station where our train leaves in 30.

Once at the station, we have to deal with a schedule that doesn’t show us the train we need to Stralsund running for another hour. There is a train that’s running to Lietzow from which it looks like we can transfer and get to Stralsund, so we buy tickets for it and hope for the best. On the train to Lietzow, the guy checking our tickets informs us that this RE9 train auto-magically becomes the RE1609, so we just need to stay where we are. Why didn’t the automat show us this fact? And, of course, with this being a small town, there was no one working at an information booth.

Leaving Rügen, Germany

Leaving Rügen about to reach Stralsund for a quick transfer to the RE3 train to Berlin.

Caroline Wise on the way to Berlin, Germany

Finally, on our way to Berlin. We chose to leave the island two hours early as the day we came in; our train was running late and stopped a few times to wait for other trains to transfer their passengers. We only had 8 minutes in Berlin to jump on a train to Erfurt, where we only had 6 minutes before another train left via Stuttgart that would bring us to Frankfurt.

We didn’t learn on our trip to Stralsund from Berlin that this train doesn’t have food or water on it, though the trip is over 3 hours long. While we have one more hazelnut Brötchen to split between us on our way to Germany’s capital city, we have nothing to drink. When we arrive, we’ll have a couple of hours until our next connection, with the plan being that we find a proper lunch. Knowing us, it’ll be a döner on the go, and why not? Berlin is known for its famous döners.

Spots of sun flash by too fast for me to properly photograph them. I want more sun and blue skies to close out this vacation in a vacation.

We’ve arrived in Berlin but not in time for the Superbooth synth conference that is ending today. So it goes; hopefully, next year, we’ll return for a normal non-COVID-influenced conference, and all the American vendors will be on hand, too. Now into the city for a moment for some speed sightseeing before grabbing that bite to eat.

There are police all over this area of the city as multiple demonstrations are going on, and from Caroline’s conversations with law enforcement, it appears they are in force in case protestors show up at one or the other protests where they might clash. Certain that we’re not walking into any confrontations, we head over to Brandenburg Gate, which Caroline hasn’t seen in person since before the Berlin Wall fell.

We didn’t have time to walk the extra 800 meters from the Sinti and Roma Memorial to the Jewish Memorial, and this memorial isn’t all that photogenic inside the walls so the sign has to stand in for our taking a moment to recognize all the “Gypsy’s” (not a nice word anymore) who were murdered by the Nazi fuckheads who loved killing everything out of the ordinary. Funny, I just realized that modern Germany, by frowning on diversity and enforcing conformity through browbeating, is, in effect, still fighting things out of the ordinary, only without the death part. Oh shit, Caroline just reminded me that every society or country is practicing this kind of cultural hegemony.

This is the German Parliament, which, in terms of functionality, is similar to America’s Capitol building and is called the Bundestag or Reichstag. While I took a photo of Caroline in front of it from multiple angles, none of them turned out well due to framing distance, fences, or other issues. With three other images of my beautiful wife gracing this page, we’ll have to leave it at that. When Caroline and I left Germany during the previous century, the seat of government was in boring Bonn. The symbolism of the new transparent dome casting sunlight onto the parliament floor is pretty cool in my book.

The Brandenburg Gate and the Berlin TV Tower might be two of the most iconic symbols of this city now that the old dividing wall is long gone.

This is the second location of demonstrations we’ve seen starting to form, but we’re keeping well clear of them as if something turns the wrong way, we could easily find ourselves in the middle of a melee that would have us missing our next train. There’s nothing going on in German politics at this time that really concerns us aside from the rise of the right side of the political spectrum, but who could blame Germans when people like Trump, Bolsanaro, Lil Nas X, Orban, Erdogan, Xi, and Putin wield so much influence?

There are many different paths in history, and for the past 76 years, Germany has been on the side of modernization, education, and, to a large extent, diversity. An older generation laments change, and an under-educated lower class listens to how good things used to be and needs someone to blame for their poor standing in society, but instead of shouldering blame due to their own ignorance and recalcitrance to change, they need to scapegoat the many foreigners taking the jobs they don’t want. It’s a similar situation everywhere on earth, such as in America, where our citizens don’t want to kill and process the meat on our table, prosperous Chinese people don’t want their children cleaning toilets, Croats won’t bus tables for crumbs when Bosniaks are at the door begging for jobs, and the list goes on.

Our choices of which paths to take in this age of stupefying change are not simple, nor is it correct in civil society to play people by instilling fear that they are getting screwed by unseen forces such as poor people stealing their futures. The sign above may as well have one pointing to Brexit, another for just sitting back watching Bolsanaro do what he pleases, and the other encouraging Trump to continue harping on the absurdity of stolen elections.

It seems like we are suffering a collective myopic moment in history where uncertainty is tossing us into the path of a speeding train. Maybe we think death is the better alternative as we run away from bogeymen that only exist in the fear machine.

The former German Democratic Republic was run by Walter Ulbricht from 1950 to 1971 when he was dethroned and succeeded by Erich Honecker, who fell with the Wall that divided the two Germany’s, East and West. What these two men had in common was that they let their country rot after World War II in the name of Communism, and instead of working to create a healthy socialist environment, they built police states that turned citizens against citizens while murdering those they felt too dangerous. What this neglect offered the West was the opportunity to tear down the crumbling remnants of a failed state. In its place, Germany is racing to offer an alternative that is rapidly evolving, as evidenced by the healthy display of resistance among the demonstrators who are freely voicing their concerns here in Berlin, where the government must witness the issues important to voters while similar actions happening across the country are relayed to media and politicians.

I would also like to note here that while I’ve poked fun at Honecker, who probably rightly deserves it, I also found that he led a quite interesting, brutal life before entering politics. I hope to carve out some time before our next visit to Berlin to learn more about the regime that ruled the east behind an Iron Curtain.

With the elections barely a week away, the push is underway to influence voters about issues the various interest groups who want to be heard are out here rallying for.

Our brief walk into Berlin is all too quickly over as Caroline and I make a note that we’ll have to return one day to give more study to this vast city.

I’ve taken too many photos here, and now I have to find something to write after saying almost everything I could hope to say about a mere hour on the streets of Berlin. Obviously, this glass cube seriously caught my attention.

It’s so interesting that I have three different views of it compared to only one for the Bundestag and one for Brandenburg Gate, but those places need more studied viewing and even a tour in regards to the Bundestag.

I think I could spend an entire day photographing the various open areas found throughout this train station. While filled with the same brands that populate every train station and airport in Germany, they do not detract so much that I can’t enjoy the beautiful architecture of this modern structure.

I had a hunch earlier before pulling into Berlin that we’d be eating a döner, and sure enough, I present you Döner mit Scharf. I’m hoping you don’t need me to translate “Scharf,” as you can see all the chili peppers on my popular Turkish sandwich.

Random towns go by, some with buildings that yank my attention, forcing the camera to the window as we glide by at over 100 mph. I can’t jot down where we are as my focus is on writing, and Google would be slow to respond anyway. No matter as someday, Caroline may very well have the opportunity to visit hundreds of these small towns if retirement goes our way.

Is this the return of blue skies?

Shooting sunsets through dirty train windows is a challenge, often producing tons of blooming as the light refracts through the glass in such a way that the image sees the trash can before ever finding its way into Lightroom for beautification treatment. Maybe I should point out my go-to settings for image adjustments as it’s usually not a lot. First, I lower the exposure a bit, increase the contrast, lower highlights, and increase shadows. I up the sharpness, hit things with the dehazer, remove some noise, adjust the lens distortion, straighten the horizon, and maybe perform some cropping. That’s really about it, as I don’t have a lot of time to invest in “fixing” images after prepping 20 to 50 images for a blog post and then moving on to writing between 1,000 and 3,000 words for it while still remaining active doing stuff that’s worth photographing and writing about, I simply cannot “Photoshop” my way to perfection.

Okay, so I said I had enough of this face on this post. Well, I never get enough of this face, or maybe it’s the eyes, or maybe it’s everything that comes along with Caroline.

It’s 7:20 in the early evening, and we are only about a half-hour from Frankfurt. We’ve been invited by the Engelhardt’s to join them for pumpkin curry that Klaus is cooking up, saving us a trip to a restaurant after 11 hours of traveling from the far north 500 miles away (804 kilometers) back to the center of Germany. If you’ve not gleaned it before, our trip to the sea was nothing shy of perfect, and that’s the last word.

Strand und Wald in Binz

This cannot possibly be our luck, can it? Here Caroline is in a Sanddorn shop selling all things Sanddorn, can you believe it? What is Sanddorn, you ask? It’s sea buckthorn, so that’s all cleared up, huh? Not if you are in America, as it’s definitely not a common item, not even on Amazon. Sure, you can find it as a supplement online, but this shop features it in no less than 25 food products and a bunch of other preparations, and from the number of people shopping at this store, it’s incredibly popular.

As important as it is to share information about sea buckthorn and its popularity in northern Germany, what I really want to tell you about is how lucky we are regarding how the weather is turning out. I now wish I’d screen-capped the forecast a couple of days ago when there was an 87% and 90% chance of rain, respectively, on Thursday and Friday. We were sitting in a local cafe enjoying a long breakfast as it was supposed to start raining at 11:00 this morning, but around 10:00, the forecast was updated, and so now we are out walking on the shore of the Baltic Sea, and we should be safe until about 3:00 this afternoon.

While the sky portends otherwise, here we are “mostly” dry, meaning Caroline has doffed her shoes as her modus operandi is in effect; no matter how cold the water she must dip her toes into the drink.

Strandkorbe or beach baskets (?) are all the rage at Germany’s beaches, especially on warm sunny days. This morning, with the threat of poor weather conditions, there was only this one guy, all alone, looking like he was asking himself, “What the hell am I doing here?” I might be wrong, but I think it might be Erich Honecker’s son, Steve.

We considered for a minute going out on this tall ship for sailing on the Baltic as for only €36 or $42, you get two hours under sail, but considering the lighting conditions and that we certainly didn’t want to find ourselves in some covered seating area looking out windows if the rain came up, we’ll have to save this one for a future visit.

This is proper beach attire for gentlemen in northern Germany. Notice the way he holds the umbrella; this is the correct angle; his form and gait portray his upbringing, while his hat protects him from damaging UV rays. Caroline believes he’s a secret police agent for the Stasi, but there’s no way I’m buying into that paranoia.

Whoever played this bad joke by placing a cairn at the water’s edge took Caroline deeper than she’d bargained for as she walked right into the sea.

I wonder what’s up the hill?

This neolithic sculpture has remained untouched here for over 4,000 years. It consists of white stones with provenance in southern Italy and is set on a granite boulder from Finland laid down during the last ice age.

I swear I’ve seen this particular cormorant in Oregon just this past November. Do they really migrate between cold and rainy climates?

We sat at a corner of the bay a good long while listening to a half dozen different types of shorebirds. Terns were hanging out with the ducks while the cormorants, swans, and seagulls were in the water, drying off or looking for food.

This early Mesolithic art has stood undisturbed for nearly 12,000 years, disproving the alleged history that says written language started with the Sumerians. If you look closely, you can still make out where twigs have been organized to spell out “Tree of Life,” which also proves English was the first spoken language on earth. Crazy, but you are seeing it with your very own eyes.

By the way, that nonsense about the Neolithic and Mesolithic art written above was added against my advice by that woman on the left of the photo. I only let her play these shenanigans because she’s cute.

The weather report has once again been updated in our favor with promises of nothing more than looming gray clouds blotting out the sun, but the rain has been pushed out until after 6:00 this evening.

So, from the Strand (beach) we take a steep trail from there into the Wald (forest).

To those who actually spend time reading these missives from the edges of Caroline’s and my experiences, I hope you enjoy the shorter blurbs where you need not scroll endlessly looking for the next photo.

You might remember, unless you too are old and forgetful, that just moments ago (or a few photos ago), we were way down there at sea level, and now we’re way up here nearly in the clouds. Our goal is to get way out there, depending on how difficult it is to hack our way through the jungle terrain.

For those who might be curious as to when and where I’m making all this stuff up, we are not in the day I’m writing about but already in the next day on a train to Berlin. I’m sharing this as I realize that by writing so little per photograph, I could run out of images to write to, and then I’d have nothing to do on this train but bug Caroline with more dumb comments in my crass abuse of German that should embarrass anyone in earshot that some American idiot is destroying their language to such vulgar effect. If only I knew how to write German, I could share an example; consider yourself saved, as you’d certainly have to sanitize your eyes mit Benzin.

Yesterday, we’d hoped to bike out to those chalk cliffs; well, that didn’t happen.

Being atop the cliffside we wanted to walk out to, my vertigo insists I’d be crazy to peer over the side that drops straight out of sight, tickling my dark hidden parts to such a degree that I would need to teleport to the bidet in our hotel room if I were to take a serious look. Without the ability to do just that, the immediate problem would then be that I’d have to clean “my fear” with my mask, thus foiling my ability to enter our hotel to change my soiled chonies, a conundrum I choose not to confront.

Like the dark side of the moon, this is the unseen bottom of the mushroom. I didn’t dare get closer as local legend has it that der böse Giftzwerg lives under the biggest Pilz im Wald (mushroom in the forest). After using this now for the third time in a blog entry, I think I should retire ever writing about “The Evil Poison Dwarf” (der böse Giftzwerg) again.

Hah, that would require self-control that my version of Tourette’s hardly knows. As a matter of fact, now that I’ve shared that I have some use of rudimentary German, I’m biting my nails, trying not to write the litany of ugliness I know. You can bet this has a thing or two to do with Caroline’s friend Claudia, who’d read this and find certainty in the knowledge that her friend’s husband is a Neanderthal, albeit one with great grammar, although she’d probably know that’s all my wife’s doing.

These leaf parasites are the spawn of the böse Giftzwerg that, after hatching, search out the biggest mushroom they can find, but don’t worry, we killed these with a fire we started using the flint Caroline found on the beach.

That’s Steve Honecker’s wife Leonida (transgender son/daughter of Leonid Brezhnev on the right) and their daughter Tiffany on the left. Ich hoffe, du hast Humor.

No trip to Europe would be complete without at least one visit to a yarn store; the closed shop in Frankfurt obviously didn’t count. At least I see a new pair of socks in my future to remind me of our perfect trip to Binz auf Rügen.

Because 14 kilometers wasn’t enough walking, we headed north on the Strandpromenade to check out some open-air market stalls selling various souvenirs to us tourists as no self-respecting local would buy the crap on offer. Instead of showing you those cheesy goods, I present you with “Path to Baltic Sea Through Forest.”

This is the Strandpromenade (Beach Walk) looking south as those yucky stalls were behind me where they belong. I wonder if I’ve done any good in sharing what the architecture of this seaside resort community looks like, but with gray skies, it’s been a struggle to capture things the way I would have liked to.

Dinner was a late lunch today, and before the shops closed (meaning the yarn store), we used the time for Caroline to explore some shopping options before dipping in for a Soft-Eis (soft-serve). Always on the hunt for hazelnut Soft-Eis, we read every menu we come across, looking for that wonderful memory we first experienced somewhere in the Austrian Alps some years ago.

Binz auf Rügen, Germany

Having dinner at 3:00 guaranteed I’d be hungry again, so we ventured back downstairs from our hotel room to this little fish joint called Happy-Happen for a late-night snack (actually, it’s only 7:30, but they close at 8:00) I grabbed the biggest fish sandwich I’ve ever seen. Expecting something akin to McDonald’s pitiful fish sandwich, I was handed the Tomahawk rib-eye version of Fischbrötchen, and my expectations of the lowly fish Mac will never be the same.

Binz auf Rügen, Germany

That rain that was supposed to arrive this evening never materialized, and with this beautiful night shot looking back at Binz from the pier, our two days of shoddy weather turned into perfect conditions for us to have an incredibly wonderful time out here on Germany’s largest island set next to the Baltic Sea.