Bringing Frankfurt Home

Holzhausenstrasse U-Bahn (subway) entrance and exit in Frankfurt, Germany

First things first, my blog is not necessarily one for public consumption. As the name was originally intended, a blog is a Web + Log, and a log is a written record of events. This day’s entry is heavy on photos and light on content; it is more of a visual record of filling in gaps that will allow Caroline and me to bring more of Frankfurt home with us. With only five days remaining on our visit to Germany, panic starts to set in as we wonder if we’ve seen it all. Up early and off into the city, we got on the U-Bahn, exiting at Holzhausen Strasse.

Caroline Wise (formerly Engelhardt) at Lessing Gymnasium in Frankfurt, Germany

We stopped here first because this was Caroline’s neighborhood while she was growing up. Unlike schools in America, there isn’t fear “yet” for the lives of children from predators that make them vulnerable while trying to attain an education. We walked right onto campus, where my wife attended gymnasium, the American equivalent of high school. Not only did we stroll the school grounds, we even went into one of the buildings where Caroline went to classes. I have to admit that this felt alien, that any moment someone would challenge us, asking what we were doing here. That didn’t happen even though administrators and students alike took notice of us more than a few times. Feels nice being in a civil society where people are still treated like mature, responsible adults. Like I said in the previous paragraph, this is my weblog, my place for social commentary, should I decide to share it.

Looking up Hansa Allee in Frankfurt, Germany

Down the street to another corner that had big importance to a young Caroline’s life: Reuterweg and Hansa Allee. At this intersection is a building of some historic importance.

The former IG Farben / Abrams Complex buildings now the Johann Wolfgang Goethe University in Frankfurt, Germany

At one time, this was the IG Farben Research Headquarters that was responsible for Zyklon B, the gas used for killing people in concentration camps during World War II. After the war, it became the central headquarters for the Supreme Allied Command and was ultimately renamed the Abrams Complex. Following the end of the Cold War and the winding down of the U.S. presence in central Europe, this valuable corner of land was turned over to the state. Today, it is the Johann Wolfgang Goethe University. The lands around the building acted as a shortcut for kids passing through the area back when Caroline went to school up the road, but she’d never been in the building.

The lobby of Johann Wolfgang University in Frankfurt, Germany. Formerly the IG Farben / Abrams Complex buildings

Today, we both get to visit this place. I first visited almost 30 years ago while I was still in the military. Back then, there was a helicopter landing site on the grounds and lots of armed soldiers. General Colin Powell was in charge here. Across the street was the Frankfurt PX, or post exchange, effectively the Army’s version of Target or Kmart. Those buildings where I could take Caroline to the fast food places that were part of the PX area are now all gone, replaced by the central headquarters of the Frankfurt police. From the sordid past of IG Farben to today’s function as an institute of higher learning, there couldn’t have been a better re-purposing of this historic set of buildings.

Caroline Wise entering a "paternoster" style elevator at Goethe University in Frankfurt, Germany. Formerly the IG Farben / Abrams Complex

One of the unique features of this building is the usage of “paternoster” elevators. Holding only one person at a time, this constantly moving elevator is a bit peculiar to use the first time. We rode them up and down more than a few times during our visit.

Walking towards Holzhausen Park in Frankfurt, Germany

Around the corner, we turned right and right again to walk the park-like area along Eysseneckstrasse on the way to Holzhausen Park. At one time, according to an old painting, this area was far out of town. The painting depicts the Holzhausen residence as being away in the countryside; today, it is nearly in the middle of Frankfurt. On the day we visited the Städel Art Museum, we were introduced to the Holzhausen family. Many of the streets around this park are named after their family members.

A kiosk in Frankfurt, Germany

Just before entering the park is this old kiosk Caroline used to shop at. Today was no different from back then; she stopped for a Caretta, an orange-flavored Popsicle.

Musikalien Petroll in Frankfurt, Germany - a great place for sheet music.

On Oederweg, we had a mission to find a sheet music store, Musikalien Petroll (pronounced moosic-kallee-in). Caroline is looking for old European folk music, stuff from the Middle Ages. She’s looking forward to hammering out the tunes on her ukelele when we get home next week.

The former Volksbildungsheim in Frankfurt, Germany

This corner building used to be known as the Volksbildungsheim, a concert hall. Today, it is a movie theater. Back in January 1989, I was attending a concert when a young German woman introduced herself as an acquaintance of Michael Mayer, a mutual friend. He had told her to say hi as he knew she spoke English and also had an interest in photography and possibly video. I was filming the bands that were playing at “Vobi” that night. She said her name was Caroline. We talked briefly until Michael returned and then parted ways. Over the ensuing months, we would run into one another at various concerts throughout Frankfurt. It wasn’t until one night in June at the Batschkapp (another concert hall) following a show by The Pixies that we ever really talked. Sitting on the steps to the overpass of the train, we talked for so long that Caroline needed a ride home. The rest, as they say, is history.

Hauptwache Cafe in Frankfurt, Germany

Time for breakfast. We’ve been busy with these other things, so maybe I should call it lunch. At 1:00, we finally stopped for a pause here at Hauptwache Cafe. This was the first place I ever ate real German apple strudel, and the memory of it has always stayed with me. Caroline, on the other hand, has no recollection of ever having eaten at this historic location. We shared a bowl of white asparagus soup, a plate of steamed white asparagus with boiled potatoes, and hollandaise. For dessert, it was, of course, a portion of apple strudel with vanilla sauce. Yes, it was as good as my memory said it was.

Lady Justice standing vigil at Römer in Frankfurt, Germany

Our next destination is the Frankfurt Dom, we call them cathedrals in the States. On the way, we pass through Römer. While I have posted another photo of the Römer (City Hall), it was a gray, cold day a few weeks ago, so here are a few new images I shot today that put the area in a better light.

The Römer area of Frankfurt, Germany

The Römer area of Frankfurt, Germany

During the Christmas holidays, the Römer plays host to the Weinachtsmarkt or Christmas Market. I have fond memories of being here on cold nights sipping glühwein (the literal translation is “glow wine”), a spiced hot wine that is perfect for the winter season. Next stop, Dom.

View from on top of the Dom tower in Frankfurt, Germany

We didn’t approach the Dom from the front entrance, good thing, too, as on the backside was a small hut where a woman was selling tickets to ascend the over 300 steps to a platform almost 20 stories above the city for this spectacular view. It’s dizzying in the narrow stairwell and cold, too, on the other hand, I’d imagine it is stifling hot and humid during the summer. As you can see, we couldn’t have asked for a better day to be up here. We were in awe.

Looking north from atop Frankfurt Dom in Germany

The funny thing is, neither Caroline nor I had ever been up here. I don’t think many others trudge up the 195 feet (65 meters), either. The signage in front of the Dom was non-existent, hence my feeling that it was good that we came around the corner we had. The previous view was looking southwest; this view is looking north. It only cost us €3 each for the climb, I can’t recommend it enough.

Inside Frankfurt Dom (Cathedral) in Frankfurt, Germany

Back down on the ground, we took a peek at the inside of the Dom (remember, it’s a Cathedral). Sorry to sound jaded, but after the Dom’s of Prague, Dresden, and Lubeck the Frankfurt Dom pales in comparison. From this point on, for the next couple of hours, I went one way, Caroline the other.

In front of the Hauptbahnhof (main train station) in Frankfurt, Germany

While she headed towards her mom’s apartment to sort through some things that were coming back to Arizona with us, I went to the red-light district. You read that right, I wanted to visit the whore houses. Way back when, while still in the Army, another young soldier, a Puerto Rican guy named Rosario in fact who was my sponsor and whose job it was to introduce me to the places I needed to know about and classes I had to take, such as basic German and customs of our host country, asked if I knew about the legal red-light districts. I did not, and so he rectified that as part of my familiarization with the Frankfurt area.

Looking back towards Hauptbahnhof on Kaiserstrasse in Frankfurt, Germany

Now, over 25 years since my first walk down Kaiserstrasse and its side streets that lead into debauchery and Catholic guilt, I’m here for a reminder and nothing else, probably. The area is seedier than it ever was, or I’m more normal than I had been. The men who are part of the subculture, likely part of pimping and other exploitation, are now mostly people from other countries. Back in my day, there were many German thugs who were a part of the scenery; today, it is gangsters who simply appear to be some very bad people from other lands. Most of the houses used for prostitution have closed as the area is slowly gentrifying; what is left are but a half dozen buildings. Years ago, most of the women on the ground and first floor (Germany refers to the 1st floor as the ground and the next level up is the 1st, what we call the 2nd floor in America) were central Europeans. Today, the first floors have no central European girls working there; they are all from Turkey, the Middle East, the Philippines, and Africa. Those European girls could be ultra-babes working tricks; today, these women span the age and weight gamut. The worst part of it all is the reminder of the smells: cigarette smoke, incense, sweat, cheap perfume, and stale semen.

Litfaßsäule (Litfass Column used for advertising) in Frankfurt, Germany

Twenty minutes in the red light district was enough, but maybe not for what you might be thinking. I’m heading back to Konstablerwache to catch the train that will take me back to Jutta’s apartment, and the wife, who is waiting for me, wondering what I’ve been up to. As I have been doing the entire time we’ve been in Germany, I’m looking for small details that will allow us to revisit the place once we are back in the intransigent desert we call home for some strange reason or other. Above is a Litfasssäule (Litfass Column named after its inventor, Ernst Litfass).

Katharinenkirche (St. Katharine's Church) in Frankfurt, Germany

Around the corner is Katharinenkirche (St. Katherine’s Church) which is also on Hauptwache adjacent to Hauptwache Cafe that we’d eaten at hours earlier. For ten years, I lived in Frankfurt, and not once did I enter this church; today is the day I finally stepped inside.

Inside Katharinenkirche (St. Katharine's Church) in Frankfurt, Germany

To my surprise, the organ is being played as I walk in. Quietly I take a seat and enjoy the music filling the church just as everyone else who is here taking a 30-minute break from the noise and crowds that line Zeil (shopping street) that runs from Hauptwache to Konstablerwache. After a few pieces, I need to take off to catch up with Caroline.

An alien portal to another dimension in a parallel universe is situated right on Zeil in Frankfurt, Germany

Along the way, there’s always one of these stories of me being delayed when I’m out wandering around; I spot something else that needs photographing. On the other days we’d been on Zeil, it was cold and drab, but with today’s weather, this alien portal built into the mall summoned me to take its picture. Stand here long enough, and you, too, might see someone sucked through to be delivered to another dimension in a parallel universe.

Phoenix The Devourer busking out the tunes on Zeil in Frankfurt, Germany

Meet Phoenix, The Devourer. This guy hailing from the Bahamas, not Phoenix, Arizona, is busking on Zeil. That’s a carrot and not a very fresh one that he’s singing into, probably the same one we saw him working a couple of weeks ago when we first saw him near Hauptwache. I threw him a few euros for his friendly efforts, which were directed more towards the cute women who were strolling by, but that’s okay as I wasn’t looking for anyone to hit on me anyway. After dropping the coins, he said, “Thanks,” so I answered him back in English and told him he was welcome. He must not hear a lot of his mother tongue over here these days and started up a short conversation. We talked about music, busking, and living in Frankfurt. I told him how much I appreciate this aspect of high foot traffic areas in Europe where musicians pick a corner and serenade us with their skills if they actually have any.

Wine fest and open-air market at Konstablerwache in Frankfurt, Germany

Need something to do on a beautiful sunny afternoon, especially on Friday? Try one of the many wine fests. This small affair was occurring at Konstablerwache in the midst of the open-air market. Slipping through the crowds wasn’t easy, but finding great cheese, fruit, and hot food was. And I thought Frankfurt was kind of boring when I lived here 18 years ago.

Event advertising in the subway in Frankfurt, Germany

Underground in the subway stations are these boards reserved for event advertising. From urban gardening and plays to music and talks, the posters bring our attention to the wealth of amazing events that are happening year-round in Frankfurt. So why are we living in Phoenix again?

The Bornheim Mitte subway station in Frankfurt, Germany

This is the subway station at Bornheim Mitte. Each of the stations is different; this one has obviously not been renovated in many years, but others have changed dramatically since we last passed through them. By now, I’m just around the corner from buzzing Jutta’s door for Caroline to let me in.

Streetcar number 12 passing by the blood donor service in Frankfurt, Germany

Since Jutta left the hospital, we’ve been visiting her just across the street from where she worked at Blutspendedienst (blood donor service) for more than 20 years. Streetcar number 12 is the train we’ve been taking to get to this stop at Heinrich-Hoffmanstrasse. Jutta is still in rehabilitation but looks to be going home on the same day we are going home. For the next two hours, we hang out before hunger pangs tell us to go eat.

Gyros with Turkish Pizza from Markez Restaurant in Frankfurt, Germany

Dinner was near the Bahnhof at Markez Kebab House. On other days when we’d be walking by this corner restaurant, it was the one place that was packed at lunchtime, so tonight, it was our turn to find out what made it so popular. The crowds are well deserved. We shared two plates, one with döner (gyros) and Turkish pizza, while the other plate, called Markez Döner, was a combo of another type of kebab served with rice and fries. Both dishes were great and left us wondering why real Turkish food is absent in America.

The theater at Willy-Brandt Platz where we catch the U-Bahn home in Frankfurt, Germany

With the day nearly over it was time to board the U-Bahn for a ride back out to the Engelhardt’s. From the main train station, it is just a few minutes walk to Willy-Brandt Platz (formerly Theater Platz), where we go underground to get our short subway ride out towards Heddenheim.

Rothenburg, Germany

Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

Disclaimer: This blog entry wasn’t written until seven years after the trip. It should be noted that this was a huge mistake. Sometimes after writing so much about other days, it happens that at the time directly after the trip or even during, I convince myself that the details are not that important. Years later, these details are that important, and pulling them out of foggy memories is difficult. The photos help and often leave clues, and then Caroline’s memories are usually far clearer than mine. With that said, here goes.

Rothenburg ob der Tauber is the full name of this town and with 52 images accompanying this blog entry, this promises to be a full-on slog to get to the end. Looking down to the bottom, I see the spaghetti ice cream, and I’d like to just jump to it and tell you how yummy it was, but there were all these things we saw along the way that I need to make note of, so we can better cement the experience in our memories.

Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

While I’d been here in Rothenburg years before I met Caroline, and she’d been here as a student, we were too young to appreciate things beyond their surface. Now, when we glance at things superficially, we do so with intent and pretend we are taking in some deeper meaning. Of course, we had to step up on the village defensive wall because being old means we have had to move beyond just getting some food and souvenirs to say we’ve been here. Honestly, though I don’t think we were ever really blasé about our encounters with history, maybe it sounds better to say we were normal young adults non-plussed by things we now find interesting. To admit more than a glancing interest in “old” stuff back when we were young only made us look nerdier than both of us already were. I’m sure everyone around us already knew the level of our social discomfort brought on by our sense of being different, but we needed to believe we were just as disaffected and cool as the cool and disaffected people we loved to hate.

Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

Now we walk into the living landscape of history writ large on the tapestry of time, and we ogle it all with a sense of ooh and aah that is unreservedly laden with geekiness of nerds who really are trying to know as much as possible. We need the impressions splayed across contrasting layers of the environment to sear their geometry and colors deep within our minds so our dreams come alive out of the pages of history instead of out of the ring of the UFC or from the track of NASCAR.

Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

And then you encounter this nightmare fodder and realize that your hopes for consuming more nerd food were just fed a giant heaping of uncertainty. Maybe you won’t escape the demons with tentacles and the moon-faced characters with serpents extruding from their mouths in some medieval old village where plague-addled whores drag their Jack The Ripper-torn limbs through shit-clogged streets offering you favors.

Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

This house was made of gingerbread, I swear.

Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

Somehow I fail to see this as being quite as idyllic as I might have hoped for, as where are the gun-toting open-carry enthusiasts strolling about while some guys wearing their colors were set up at a bench selling meth. Oh yeah, this isn’t Dallas, Texas.

Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

Why is it that civility goes hand-in-hand with a scene like this and the idea of a trailer park being down the hill is anathema to me wanting to be here? Come to think about it, have I ever seen a trailer park in Germany?

Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

This fairytale village is not really a fairytale place at all but is simply a place with a ton of history where average, everyday, common people live and work. It is those of us who visit quaint and beautiful places that label them and give them greater value than the places we come from that might be devoid of character and community.

Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

You might see something like this in the Hamptons of New York with an eight-figure price tag, but you’d never see this on the south side of Cincinnati. Why is it that Europeans appear to care more about the quality of life that can be had in places that maintain the environment compared to their counterparts in North America?

Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

You will not find any neon in Rothenburg or any garish billboards. There is nobody standing somewhere spinning signs to attract passersby who might be enticed by a homeless person dancing in the sun while flipping the sign around like a cheerleader in 10th grade twirling a baton. Sure, the history of this village coats everything here, including the air, while the closest thing we have in the States is Colonial Williamsburg, but Rothenburg is not an isolated place. There are many quaint and beautiful villages dotted across the European landscape. Back home, I can’t help but think we have a throw-away history where those beautiful small towns across Texas with great squares and incredible historic city halls are left to decay and give way to burgeoning outlet stores and big-box franchises that replace the old with little concern to what is lost. These signs in Rothenburg are enchanting due to their uniqueness; they are not thrown away for the sake of modernity.

Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

If you’ve ever seen a travel brochure for Germany, you’ve seen a much better photograph of this exact scene than what I was able to photograph today. Heck, if you’ve seen a travel brochure, you’re likely old like me and simply wish that someday you, too, can go stand in places that held so much curiosity when you were a kid.

Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

Come to think of it, my curiosity is still that of my childhood. I want to look into the window on the left, walk on this part of the wall at night while carrying a lantern, and investigate what treasures are hidden in the attics long abandoned in some of these homes. What I don’t want to happen is to run into Armin Meiwes up an alley here. Who was Armin, you must surely be asking? He was the guy who ate a dick right here in this village. I’ll bet a dollar Rothenburg hates this connection to their beautiful little hamlet, but that’s just the way it goes when you cultivate an environment of dick eaters among the locals. I’ve heard that 2001 was a good year for cannibalism, but I can’t affirm that from any kind of first-hand experience. Armin is still in prison, and there was a documentary about him, should anyone have a greater curiosity about what dick tastes like.

Edit on April 2, 2021: Rather than hide my stupidity, I have to confess that Rothenburg ob der Tauber is not Rotenburg an der Fulda, where Meiwes was from, so I got the above all wrong. Except for the part where he eats dicks. 

Caroline Wise in Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

Just then, Caroline barks at me to get moving and stop trying to find signs of cannibalism.

Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

A snail riding a winged snail isn’t something you see every day but then what is it when you are on a road trip from America and you find such a thing in some small corner of Europe?

Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

I thought this spiral stairway leading to the upper floors was pretty cool.

Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

Visiting somewhere wouldn’t be complete without us dipping into a church, and this one here called St. James Church will do just fine.

Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

This hand carving of a symbolic boat to heaven is from a partner church down in Tanzania.

Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

The Holy Blood altarpiece carved between 1500 and 1505 by Tilman Riemenschneider kind of makes me think about Til from Rammstein. My wife just groaned when she read that, but probably not as much as she wondered why in the world I had to write about Herr Dr. Armin Meiwes, Dick Eater Esq., above. Oh, and one other thing: right about now, Caroline is intoning Holy Blood in this very particular way that was spoken in Alejandro Jodorowsky’s film Santa Sangre (Holy Blood); trust me, she is.

Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

This altarpiece is just incredible, and at 500 years old, I’m just in awe of how perfect it is five centuries after it was carved with hand tools.

Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

There’s a museum in town, and if you were so lucky to be in Rothenburg on a weekday outside of the main tourism season, you, too, could be in a nice, quiet museum checking out a bunch of cool stuff without feeling crowded.

Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

This is where notes from our time on this particular trip to Europe would have come in handy, or I could spend some time on Google finding what these are, but I kind of like the mystery.

Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

Horn of something with a carving of the hunt. Maybe Caroline can embellish these descriptions with something beyond the obvious.

Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

You know why this is here. Hand-made stuff from some kind of yarn, and my wife’s senses get all perky. I remember way back when how she’d get that way for me, but we were younger then, much younger.

Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

Who thinks that horses need armor, too? Maybe a LARPA will see this and think I’m a total noob.

Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

Holy Baby was probably stolen from some church, maybe not. I took over 100 photos here in the Reichsstadt Museum and while I have another 15 or 20 worthy images I’d like to share, who’s not wondering when this lengthy entry comes to an end?

Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

Come on now, who doesn’t find this amazing? Reflected windows on a yellow wall across from a red wall with bluish-grey hints on the stone street seriously make for some eye candy that begged to be photographed.

Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

And with that, we head for the exit. Hmm, this isn’t the exit. Just where are we in this maze?

Würzburg, Germany

Welcome to Würzburg, the next stop on our jaunt east and back.

Würzburg, Germany

This was quite the jarring transition from a sleepy little village to the 50th largest city as ranked by population in Germany. For comparison, New Orleans in Louisiana is the 50th largest city in America.

Würzburg, Germany

The happy season of sunshine and warmth has returned, and what better way to celebrate that than raising his pagan symbol called the Maypole? There’s not a lot known about the folklore of these Maypoles, but there’s something intriguing about them when you are somewhere that raises them.

Würzburg, Germany

St Mary’s Chapel, or Marienkapelle in German, is right on the main square. For almost 700 years, this church has sat here, though it was heavily damaged during World War II. It is said that there had been a synagogue standing here back on the 21st of April, 1349 before it was flattened almost exactly 664 years ago to the day.

Würzburg, Germany

The 14th-century Gothic style looks good for its age.

Caroline Wise in Würzburg, Germany

How Caroline pulled this face while being attacked by this giant street shrimp, or is it a lobster? I’ll never know. That she’s letting me post her looking so goofy is wonderful, as it certainly makes me laugh.

Würzburg, Germany

Then there was this church from 1065 called the Neumünster or New Munster church.

Würzburg, Germany

You’ve just got to love these baroque churches for the extravagance and crazy detail.

Würzburg, Germany

Just a simple shrine to the Virgin Mary. We have one just like it at home.

Würzburg, Germany

I’m a bit confused by skeletons as decoration for churches as I can’t help but think that death awaits you. While on a certain level, death awaits us all, I was raised to feel that the church uplifted you and helped you celebrate life, but who knows how people saw things 1000 years ago?

Würzburg, Germany

As we bounce from church to church, defiling these places of worship with our unbelieving souls, we wait for the person who might notice our evil atheist auras and toss some holy water on us, but sadly, this never happens. I also don’t really believe we’re evil, and I’d also wager that most visitors to these historic houses of God are tourists just like us. This church here is the St. Kilian Cathedral also known as Würzburger Cathedral.

Würzburg, Germany

If you made it this far in my blog entry, maybe you are wondering if I’ll get serious and share anything really meaningful about observations or history lessons taken from this fourth day of our little road trip: nope. I’m kind of finished writing here and wish I’d not chosen so many damn pictures that I need to write to. Sure, Caroline has said, “Hey, you don’t need to write something under every photo.” but my OCD says, “OH YES, you do!”

Würzburg, Germany

Have you ever stood somewhere like this and wondered how many shades of gray are you actually looking at? Is there a function in Photoshop that can offer this information?

Würzburg, Germany

This is just how I look when I’m contemplating those kinds of questions, seriously, just like this, including the suit of armor and chains.

Würzburg, Germany

This is the Würzburg Residence, and we would have gone in, but there are warnings at the ticket counter of the risk of your head exploding due to the intricate, ornate, even flamboyant nature of the Baroque excesses that exist in this building. Having already visited two gothic and two baroque churches today, we felt this could easily tilt us into ecstatic overload and have put it off to a future visit. If you don’t believe me, just Google “Interior Würzburg Residence.”

Germany

Just a couple of plain trees with a plain old field of grass in front of a plain stand of trees. Soothing simplicity for the baroque strained eyes needing a break.

Germany

More of the above but with water.

Germany

The view of Mondfeld on the Main River. We are traveling west, trying to maximize our sightseeing time.

Germany

And a quick stop in Miltenberg because the gate looks cool, so there might be other cool stuff here, and we’re hungry for some snacky stuff.

Germany

Fairytale-style is normal stuff all over Germany. I think I could spend 15 years just traveling to every small town and village in Europe and forever continue finding little treasures.

Michelstadt, Germany

We left the Main River and continued west as Caroline said that the small town of Michelstadt had fond memories for her, so we went.

Jutta Engelhardt and Caroline Wise in Frankfurt, Germany

This is one of those days that just kept on going where we still had enough time to drop in on Jutta to check on her recovery from the broken hip. She’s doing great and is walking outside with us; seems that she’ll be just fine. I don’t know if I said it anywhere else here during our stay in Europe, but we tried to incentivize my mother-in-law by telling her that if she worked hard on her recovery, we’d have her visit us in America again as soon as she felt fit enough. So on November 2oth, she landed in Denver, Colorado which was the closest non-stop flight I could get her from Frankfurt to somewhere near Phoenix, Arizona, and she and I drove back to Arizona. Jutta stayed with us for 46 days, and sadly, it was her last visit to America as mobility and health had finally determined that it was best for her to stay close to home.

Olbia Pizza in Frankfurt, Germany

With Jutta happy to have seen us and heard briefly about our whirlwind adventure, we went over to our favorite pizza place in the entire universe called Olbia Pizzeria on Glauburgstrasse and shared a pizza.

Spaghetti Ice from Eis Christina in Frankfurt, Germany

Being in our old neighborhood and running out of time in Frankfurt, we had to hit Eis Christina next, for you know what…

Spaghetti Ice from Eis Christina in Frankfurt, Germany

Sweet Jesus. It took 2500 words and a ton of photos to get to this moment where the famous Spaghetti Eis of our favorite ice-cream shop in the entire universe makes an appearance. If we could live on this and not kill ourselves with diabetes and obesity, we’d eat Spaghetti Eis three or four times a day.

I’d like to point out that these kinds of travels are, in some ways, just like eating the yummiest ice cream all the time; they are that incredible.

Dresden to Görlitz, Germany

Dresden, Germany

Disclaimer: This blog entry wasn’t written until seven years after the trip. It should be noted that this was a huge mistake. Sometimes after writing so much about other days, it happens that at the time directly after the trip or even during, I convince myself that the details are not that important. Years later, these details are that important, and pulling them out of foggy memories is difficult. The photos help and often leave clues, and then Caroline’s memories are usually far clearer than mine. With that said, here goes.

The Dresden Frauenkirche, or Church of Our Lady, is a Lutheran place of worship. Hence, the statue of Martin Luther standing in front of it. Back in 1995, when Caroline and I were moving to the States from Germany, reconstruction of the Frauenkirche had just begun. For fifty years after World War II, it sat as a sad ruin in total destruction. Even this statue of Martin Luther was toppled in the mayhem that devastated Dresden, but it survived and was repaired long before the church. Only eight years ago, the reconstructed building was once again standing in the glory of its best days. This being a Protestant church, they are open when it suits them, so as we wait for a visit to this significant sight, we’re off to the Catholic church, which is almost always open.

Dresden, Germany

This is the Fürstenzug mural featuring a procession of the rulers of Saxony. A week ago, when Caroline and I were up north near the Wattenmeer, she told me the story of the Frisians of Saxony and how, back in the 5th century AD, they inhabited parts of Britain after Rome fell. With their Celtic roots now merged with some German ancestry, things would remain relatively calm for almost 600 years until the Norman Conquest pumped England and the evolving English language full of French. As the British Empire rose, I don’t think we can divorce the influence of Rome, Germany, and France on this little island nation and realize that the beginning of multiculturalism is quite old and didn’t just arrive with late 20th-century liberalism. Back to the Fürstenzug that we are walking along, originally, this “Procession of Princes” was painted between 1871 and 1876 to celebrate the 800th anniversary of the Wettin Dynasty. One hundred years ago, the painting was replaced with 23,000 pieces of porcelain, making this 335-foot-long mural the largest porcelain artwork in the world.

Dresden, Germany

This is part of the Katholische Hofkirche or Dresden Cathedral but first, a detour to something that just caught my eye.

Dresden, Germany

These are the guards of the Georges Gate or Georgentor. Early Techno Viking, if you ask me. This is on the Schlossplatz or Palace Square, which we are walking through to get to the Catholic Church.

Dresden, Germany

The Dresden Cathedral is not a very ostentatious affair.

Dresden, Germany

Sadly, we didn’t visit the crypt. We didn’t know at the time that the majority of the Wettin family is buried here along with the heart of King Augustus II,  also known as Frederick Augustus I the Elector of Saxony, also popularly known as Augustus the Strong, also known as the Imperial Vicar and elected King of Poland, also known as the Grand Duke of Lithuania but even with all those titles he never had a sausage or sandwich named after him. Then again, the 4th Earl of Sandwich is buried in some rinky-dink place in a corner of England nobody has ever heard of, while King Augustus has his heart buried in a Cathedral, and his body rests in Wawel Cathedral in Kraków, Poland.

Dresden, Germany

One of the towers of Dresden Castle. Our visit doesn’t include a tour of the museum, as this mini-four-day excursion is all about quantity equaling quality and not lingering for the sake of luxury. We are happy with this overall impression of the city instead of immersion. I should also admit that I have a bit of reluctance even being in Dresden as after reunification in 1990, right-wing extremists from Rostock, Halle, Magdeburg, and Dresden were creating disturbances that made me leery of ever visiting these places. As I walk through Dresden, I can’t help but be aware that I’m an American and that, for some people who live here, that is as bad as being from any of the other countries they loathe.

The Semperoper on Theaterplatz is an opera house Caroline and I would love to visit one day. As I’m writing this, all opera houses around the earth are closed to visitors due to the Covid-19 pandemic. Even putting on events that can be live-streamed is impossible as the crowding of the stage and orchestra pit would create precarious situations for the health of the actors and musicians.

I can’t decide which way we should go, so after looking at the opera, we turned our attention back to the Dresden Castle before finally moving over the grounds of the Zwinger.

Augustus the Strong needed a park with fountains to hang out in back in the day of managing so much land and carrying so many titles, so he built the Zwinger. Not all of it, as he ran out of money before he could realize all of his dreams, but lucky for us, at some point, the area was turned into gardens and a museum.

Following the bombing of Dresden during World War II, everything was touched in this city by destruction; nothing was left unscathed. Visiting Dresden today, you’d never know that nearly 70 years ago, this city could have been scrapped it was in such bad shape. The attention to detail and effort to spend the money required to put not just Dresden back together but every major German city across the landscape attest to what an effort can be made to modernize a country.

Who doesn’t love Baroque architecture? I could have lingered all day, but this wasn’t that kind of trip.

Earlier, we walked past the Fürstenzug, a.k.a. Procession of Princes; this is the other side and part of the old stable connected to Dresden Castle. In the background, you can see the steeple of the Cathedral, which might make you wonder why there’s a Catholic church in a Protestant city. Back in the day, when France was the seat of culture and intellect, the French royalty remained steadfast in their Catholicism, and so did those who needed to be close to power. While the Frauenkirche was under construction, the need to have a place of worship for the Catholics was also recognized and so Augustus III commissioned this Cathedral that was connected directly to his home.

Speaking of the Frauenkirche, here we are in its magnificent interior. This photo does no justice to the spectacular detail and beauty found in this church. It really is something one should see with their own eyes. By the way, notice the organ pipes? Those really are above the altar, which I’m trying to remember if I’ve ever seen this orientation in quite the same way as my memory says the organ is always over the entry in the back of the church. Another thing about the altar: imagine a peasant stepping up to the altar to receive the Eucharist; how would they not have felt they were in the presence of God himself, when in their normal lives, things may have been a grim struggle?

Nothing like a bunch of white and gold with chambers within chambers to draw the mind’s eye above into bright, lofty thoughts.

For those who might be inclined, and let me say I was surprised there were so few of us, you can make your way up the dome on this ramp, and while the view into the church itself is a bit cramped, you will be rewarded when you reach close to the top with the opportunity to step outside and see the next photo.

Dresden, Germany

That is the River Elbe in front of us, as seen from the Frauenkirche here in Dresden, Germany. This was also the end of our time in this city as we’d decided to head over to Poland as neither of us had ever been there.

Bautzen, Germany

So much for getting over to Poland, as we are sidetracked in Bautzen. When in America, one doesn’t just stumble across Washington D.C., New York City, or Chicago to be drawn in by the skyline, and when driving past Scottsbluff, Nebraska, or Ardmore, Oklahoma, it isn’t likely that storage units will capture your curiosity, but as you approach a village in Europe, there’s too often something or other on the horizon that begs you to detour and come see what’s what. Just Google “Skyline Bautzen,” and you’ll see what I mean.

After parking near the Cathedral of St. Peter, as everyone knows that the cathedrals represent the center of the old town, we had to step inside.

Bautzen, Germany

Echoes of prayer and song with organ and choir can be heard between the shadows as the sun falls into the nave warming the memories of the parishioners who have once sat upon these pews.

Bautzen, Germany

The reward for being flexible is finding the opportunity to be delighted. I’d imagine that to the people that live on this street, there’s nothing special about this particular street, but to my American eyes, the yellow and red paint, the wrought iron lights, the curve in the street paved with stones, and a sidewalk cut of a different color stone are all notable qualities when contrasted with the country I’m from where asphalt and cement pave our paths and houses are mostly generic affairs built to last maybe 50 years, not 500 years.

Bautzen, Germany

Small corners with gated passages to places I won’t have the chance to visit create mystery as I try to imagine what is further up the stairs.

Bautzen, Germany

These are the ruins of the St. Nicholas Church. That’s right, Saint Nicholas, who some people know as Santa Claus. Just who was this Santa Claus guy who was originally known as Nicholas from Patara? Patara is now known as Demre in Turkey, but around 300 years after Christ, the town was Greek. The story goes that under the Roman Emperor Diocletian, who was busy prosecuting Christians, Bishop Nicholas fell into the clutches of prison, and upon being released, he attended the Council of Nicaea in A.D. 325, which your memory might serve you that this event was the First Ecumenical Council calling to preserve the unity of the church that was being threatened by various claims about the nature of Jesus Christ.

Eighteen years later, on 6 December 343, Nicholas died and turned into “manna,” or pure water, which proved he was a saint, but that wasn’t all. Stories came to life about the spirit of Nicholas being the protector of children and helper of those in need. Like all good tales, one thing leads to another, and pretty soon, you have a fat bearded white guy from the North Pole working with elves to bring loot on the 25th of December. WTF? A Greek Bishop under Roman dominion living on the coast of the Mediterranean hooks up with shape-shifting characters out of Norse mythology to raid electronics manufacturers in order to give children Playstations. Yeah, that’s the kind of people we are. But wait, we’re not done yet. Fast forward 1,100 years to 1450, and some people in the Sorbian village of Bautzen built a temple in honor of Santa Claus who had lived 1,800 miles south in Asia Minor because why? Well, that’s obvious: they were poor people who needed help, except then in 1619, with World War Zero raging (30 Years War, 1618-48), the church was razed, never to be rebuilt, because who needs a church dedicated to a myth that didn’t help anyone in Bautzen?

Bautzen, Germany

The astute reader picked up on me dropping “Sorbian village” into the conversation. I, too, wondered after Caroline and I arrived in Bautzen, “What is this Sorbian thing? I thought this was Germany?” Nothing is ever that easy in Germany, especially when it comes to how the country took shape, how language works here, and bread recipes. Without getting too deep into this ridiculously long blog entry that has 50 photos and a ton of words that I’m certain most people won’t even skim as they glide down the photos, thinking, why is this person wasting so much bandwidth on all these pictures that have meaning to me and just why did Google even suggest this page for what I was looking for? Anyway, the Sorbs are the people who gave themselves that name as they were ethnically Lusatians and Wends, not Germans. This West Slavic group is closer in identity to the Polish, Kashubian, Czech, and Slovak people, and while the Sorbian language is now a minority language in Germany, it’s still alive, such as right here in Bautzen.

Bautzen, Germany

I probably should have broken some of those paragraphs I’ve already written into smaller ones so I’d have something meaningful, historic, and important here, but I’ve got nothing. I did like the curve of the street, the wall, and how the house curves around the corner, I thought this was really cool. About the house on the right, does anyone else see the eyes on the roof and a mouth where the balcony should be?

Bautzen, Germany

I thought about removing this photo, though originally I liked it enough to have included it, but if I remove it, I have to go back and change where I wrote about this entry having 50 photos.

Bautzen, Germany

Sexy King Frog and his golden sphere must be some kind of Sorbian folktale, or maybe it was just part of a shop’s signage.

Bautzen, Germany

We just earned serious bragging rights as there are many people who can claim to have visited the Leaning Tower of Pisa but few who can say they’ve climbed to the top of the Leaning Tower of Bautzen, a.k.a. Reichenturm? But we did. The tower on the right is the Cathedral St. Peter, and off to its right and out of sight is the St. Nicholas Church. Straight ahead and a bit to the right with the yellow and black tower, that’s City Hall and near where we parked.

Bautzen, Germany

This mustard yellow City Hall building might be the appropriate color as it turns out that Bautzen is famous for its mustard. I wish I’d known this when we were there. But hey, it’s 2020, and Amazon has everything, right? Sure enough, they sell Bautz’ner Senf (mustard) right here in America, and I just got my order in. Time to continue our trek to Poland.

Görlitz, Germany

We thought we were going to Poland, but then the town on the border jumped into view. Welcome to Görlitz. This is the Frauenkirche, which you learned earlier in Dresden translates to Church of Our Lady. Just as the building is simple on the outside, so it is on the inside too. Had I shot at least one nice photo, I might have shared it but 50 photos are already so many. I think I’ve become my grandfather with his slideshows from his own travels at home back in the late 60s and early 70s.

Görlitz, Germany

If it’s called Dicker Turm, I’m going because a part of me is still 14 years old. Dicker Turm translates to Fat Tower, not Giant Penis. We should have gone up the 700-year-old 180 steps for a look around Görlitz and maybe even into Poland, but we were pressed for time on another side, too; Caroline is supposed to be getting some work done. This month in Germany began due to Jutta (my mother-in-law) breaking her hip. Part of the reason for so much time being able to be spent here is that Caroline could work remotely, and she still needs to get to that.

Görlitz, Germany

Oh damn, another church. We are suckers for churches and cannot turn away from one when we spot one. Just a quick look, we say, and then we find ourselves lost for even more time. This particular church is the Dreifaltigkeitskirche or Holy Trinity Church.

Görlitz, Germany

Older than the Fat Tower, this church was built between 1234 and 1245.

Görlitz, Germany

The altar in this church is spectacular, and because this overview lacks so much detail, I’m posting a closeup of the top of the altarpiece below.

Görlitz, Germany

I should have had my 70-200mm lens with me to capture the wings of the babies, but sometimes, when traveling, we have to opt for convenience over perfection.

Görlitz, Germany

Georgsbrunnen, or Fountain of St. George in the Altstadt, was just a momentary stop on our way through the “Old Town” doing some window shopping. Maybe we’d find a yarn store?

Görlitz, Germany

No yarn store but a gift store featuring Polish pottery from Bolesławiec. We left with a bowl that Caroline uses at least a couple of times a week. One of our favorite souvenirs ever.

Görlitz, Germany

We’re not the only ones to love the vibe here in Görlitz, as Wes Anderson was just here last month filming his new movie The Grand Budapest Hotel.

Görlitz, Germany

What is it about the quietest streets that hold some of the most appeal? I think that without people, I can imagine exactly what the place looked and felt like a couple of hundred years ago.

Trabi in Görlitz, Germany

With the Trabi on the road, I can almost picture it being 1967 in the Deutsche Democratic Republic. Here’s the famous Trabant 601 stinking up the street.

Görlitz, Germany

God rays, how appropriate just before entering another church.

Görlitz, Germany

This is the Sts. Peter and Paul Church, and due to our free time winding down, we must run after the briefest of visits.

Looking towards Zgorzelec, Poland

We are looking for Germany into Poland.

Piwnica Staromiejska in Zgorzelec, Poland

Little did we know it when I snapped this photo, but this is Piwnica Staromiejska, which is a restaurant on the Lusatian Neisse River. That’s right, earlier in Bautzen, we had just learned about Sorbians and their background, and here’s the river that separates Poland and Germany, and it’s called the Lusatian Neisse.

Caroline Wise and John Wise in Zgorzelec, Poland

Needed the obligatory selfie in front of the Poland border marker, as one never knows if we’ll be out this way again. Poked around a little bit, but this side of the river didn’t look like a lot of history was on display, as maybe this was the old suburbs of the town center. Long ago, the two sides of the river were the same town, but as war and new state lines created divisions, the Polish side was named Zgorzelec.

Piwnica Staromiejska in Zgorzelec, Poland

Walking by the tower while we were on the bridge we saw that Piwnica Staromiejska had a sign out showing food and drink are available. This would be perfect for us to sit down for me to write a while and for Caroline to get caught up on work. It was a bit later in the day but still a good time for a late lunch, so we ordered a beer for Caroline, but our server interpreted it as a beer for each of us. I don’t drink, and we didn’t want to send it back as I insisted on ordering in my poor German instead of letting Caroline order, so Caroline had two beers while she worked. After a short wait, our food arrived: a shared plate of bacon and boiled potatoes with some carrot and cabbage salad.

Piwnica Staromiejska in Zgorzelec, Poland

Always room for a dessert especially something with orange and almond. We shared both dishes to ensure we’d have some appetite later when we found a hotel.

Ostritz, Germany

We are passing through Ostritz, Germany, on our way towards Czechia, also referred to as the Czech Republic. Where Bautzen and Görlitz have obviously benefited from reconstruction Euros, Ostritz has been left in the dark and is decaying.

Ostritz, Germany

Not to say there’s not a lot of character here and maybe someday others will move in to start renovations.

Ostritz, Germany

Five years after our visit, Ostritz gained international attention when it hosted a Neo-Nazi music festival. I’d guess they did so in order to bring some money into town, and who knows, maybe the old inhabitants miss the days of oppression, dictators, national socialism, or communism. Luckily for us, we didn’t run into a single skinhead.

Sunset on the road to Zittau, Germany

After leaving Ostritz, it was only another 20km to Zittau, and while we would have liked to drive all the way to Prague tonight, we weren’t sure about language problems, finding inexpensive lodging, or even navigating Czechia’s roads. While we found a room at the Black Bear Hotel (Schwarzer Bär), there weren’t a lot of dinner options, so we dined at the hotel’s restaurant. Dinner was okay, but breakfast the next day was where the wow factor came in. Two days into our little road trip and it already feels like we’ve been out for a week or two.

Eisenach to Weimar, Germany

Backhaus am Dalberg in Fulda, Germany

Disclaimer: This blog entry wasn’t written until seven years after the trip. It should be noted that this was a huge mistake. Sometimes after writing so much about other days, it happens that at the time directly after the trip or even during, I convince myself that the details are not that important. Years later, these details are that important, and pulling them out of foggy memories is difficult. The photos help and often leave clues, and then Caroline’s memories are usually far clearer than mine. With that said, here goes.

Today was the day that we headed out of Frankfurt for a spontaneous, much-needed road trip that would take us someplace else. Up the road from Fulda is Eisenach, which at one time had been part of East Germany; as Caroline nor I had ever been there, it seemed like a great starting point. Like all road trips, we do our best to get out early, and this one was no exception. An hour down the road it was time for breakfast, and so we grabbed some random cafe. Wempen Backhaus am Dalberg in Fulda was the perfect place. This breakfast came to define a memory of perfection that’s never been far from our minds. While we’d already been in Germany 18 days by now, this breakfast extravaganza struck a chord that is resonating seven years later as I write this.

Backhaus am Dalberg in Fulda, Germany

On intervening vacations in Europe, we’ve not made it back to Fulda, but the place will hopefully draw us back for a return at least once more in our lifetimes. We didn’t need much convincing that if the rest of our meal was so amazing that their creampuffs would probably be delectable too, we weren’t wrong. I should point out that Backhaus am Dalberg is not in a high-end shopping area, a wealthy neighborhood, or is in any way set up to tease our expectations with its exclusiveness. It was a cafe and did its work incredibly. While relatively common across Germany, these levels of attention to detail are rare in America unless you are in Santa Monica, California, Bellevue, Washington, New York City, or out on Cape Cod.

Caroline Wise in Eisenach, Germany

Once arrived in Eisenach, we had just barely parked the car when we spotted a woman in garb from another age, and can we believe our eyes? She’s spinning fiber! While Caroline’s sister Stephanie is an avid knitter, she doesn’t spin or weave, so this is the first German my wife has ever met who knows how to spin fiber to make yarn. That deserved a photo to mark the occasion.

Eisenach, Germany

St. George’s Church on the Marktplatz is known in German as Georgenkirche and was originally built in the 12th century. Martin Luther held a sermon right here back on 2 May 1521, and 165 years later on 23 March 1685, Johann Sebastian Bach was baptized in this very church.

Eisenach, Germany

Both of these events played key roles in why we are in Eisenach today. Around the corner is a Bach Museum, and just a few miles up the road from there is the Wartburg, where Martin Luther made history. Seeing we aren’t in a hurry today and plan on being out on the road for four days, we are taking our time to wander a bit. By the way, that fountain here on the side of the church was designed back in 1549.

Eisenach, Germany

On our way over to Bachhaus (Bach House), I couldn’t help but want to photograph every Fachwerkhaus I spotted. In America, we refer to this style of architecture as a half-timbered house.

Bach Statue in Eisenach, Germany

Outside the Bach House, where a court area features this statue, we were trying to go slow and contain our excitement, but come on, this is Bach, and in some way, it is like visiting Disneyland for nerds. At one point, it was thought this was where Johann Sebastian Bach was born, but proof of that has never been found, so while it could be proven that he lived here for a time, that will suffice for it to act as the museum that highlights his life here in Eisenach during the period of the late 17th century into the early 18th.

Bach's House in Eisenach, Germany

Just minutes after paying our admission, we were told to hurry over to a nearby room where a demonstration of some of Bach’s music would be performed on historic instruments that would have been identical to those available to the composer in his day. How does one explain how amazing it is to hear the music of Bach on instruments that he may have actually played almost 300 years ago? The exhibits are much of what one would expect when visiting a home setup to give impressions of the age, but other than the actual historical pieces; it was the music shop after the performance that really had our attention. I think we left with between 8 and 10 CDs of Bach’s music.

Caroline Wise in Eisenach, Germany

After that kind of excitement, Caroline needed something to calm her geek factor down, and nothing does that, like a nice lukewarm bottle of Black Ass beer. Oh, you don’t read German and can’t translate Schwarzer Esel? Well, I just did that for you, and the photo is proof that my wife guzzled a bottle of Black Ass on the streets of Eisenach. I think Martin Luther might have rolled over in his grave at my description of these shenanigans in this important city.

Wartburg in Eisenach, Germany

We drove up the hill a bit and parked in the forest with everyone else. The vendor selling Thüringer Rostbratwurst almost pulled us in for the grilling sausages, but he had a good line going, and we were hoofing it up the mountain, so we’d wait till later for a snack. There’s something not so great about our approach in the forest: we never were able to gain an overview of the castle we were approaching. This is the Wartburg, and like a broken record, I can’t downplay the historical importance of this fortress on the mountaintop. The Wartburg served as the hiding place for Martin Luther from May 1521 to March 1522 and is where, over a 10-week period, he translated the bible from Greek to German.

Wartburg in Eisenach, Germany

Martin Luther was hiding here after receiving ex-communication from Pope Leo X and not recanting during the Diet of Worms his Ninety-five Theses or Disputation on the Power and Efficacy of Indulgences, where he took umbrage with the abuse of power by the clergy. Now a wanted man, it was Frederick the Wise who helped “Junker Jörg” (aka the Knight George) remain in hiding. By the way, Frederick and I are in no way related as far as I know, and obviously, Knight George was the nom de guerre of Martin Luther.

Wartburg in Eisenach, Germany

Nearly 500 years ago, Martin Luther, who may have very well stood at this window contemplating his act of rebellion while being clueless that Lutheranism and Protestantism were about to be birthed and the entire balance of power in Europe and the church were going to shift. Within 100 years of this fateful translation, Europe would fall into World War Zero with the 30 Years War.

Wartburg in Eisenach, Germany

Before arriving at the room where Martin Luther worked, we had to pass through a number of rooms in the castle. Normally, this would be very cool, but we’re talking about the guy behind the Reformation, so quite a serious heavyweight in the scheme of history. This is kind of like waiting in line to get on the Pirates of the Caribbean. Yes, it’s quite nice here, but I want to get into the cellar where the drunken pirates are putting on quite the scene.

Wartburg in Eisenach, Germany

About now, I’d imagine my average reader who showed up here for a travel story is wondering what the hell the Ninety-Five Theses and Reformation have to do with getting Thüringer sausages and hanging out at a castle. Maybe you are asking if there’s a corollary between bratwursts and the bible; while I’m sure there is, I don’t really know what it would be off-hand, but there’s certainly a correlation regarding massive shifts in European history and then American history for that matter when it came to the events between 1517 and early 1522. We’re talking a lot of facts and details that no one comes to my blog for; you’d probably prefer I get to those grilled sausages and tell you how yummy they were.

Wartburg in Eisenach, Germany

This is the Festaal or the Banquet Hall, where the royalty of Thüringia would gather to feast on Thüringer Brats and beer. The truth is I don’t know exactly, though I wonder if this was where Devo played back on June 13, 1980, when this was still Communist East Germany?

Update: it’s been a few years since I wrote this, and the Wikipedia article still claims that Devo played here, but with further research, I learned that Devo actually played the Wartburg in Wiesbaden, West Germany, just outside of Frankfurt.

Wartburg in Eisenach, Germany

One more bit of history for you: the Wartburg is the setting for Richard Wagner’s opera Tannhäuser. Legend has it that the Sängerkrieg, or Minstrels’ Contest, was performed here back in 1206 to 1207, which Wagner based his opera on. Now, don’t forget to post a comment here after you go have a listen to Tannhäuser and thank me, though I really enjoy Tristan and Isolde a lot too. Also, consider that back in 1618 to 1648, the 30 Years War was going on, and while this castle was still standing, it was doing poorly but not as bad as the population below when, between 1347 and 1351, the Black Plague was decimating Europe. Did I forget to tell you that Goethe once stayed here?  He was considering turning the Wartburg into an art museum, but when 100s of students met here in 1817 to proclaim their desire for a national state with a constitution and laying the groundwork for the 1848 revolution, he lost interest.

Caroline Wise at the Wartburg in Eisenach, Germany

This is the room, it is claimed, where Martin Luther translated the bible and changed history forever. If I have my history right, the wall over by the heater is where Martin Luther saw the devil and threw his inkpot at him. The resulting stain remained through much of history, but slowly but surely, souvenir hunters scraped a gaping hole in the wall as they tried collecting their personal mementos. No matter the specifics, we are in proximity to the locations where momentous events were taking place, and so if we do nothing more than reflect on these tidbits of history we’ve collected over our lifetimes, we can relish the opportunity afforded us to round out the pictures that drift out of space creating knowledge for those interested in collecting it.

Weimar, Germany

Weimar, the place of legend. Sadly, we are here late in the day and will basically just pass through. As this is a spontaneous road trip without known destinations and our desire to shove as many sights into our heads as possible before returning to America in 9 days, we will stay on the move with the hope that our little orientation side trips while in Europe will lead to a return to pick up on those sights we miss due to our relative hurry.

Weimar, Germany

For over 1000 years, the city of Weimar has been here and is probably most famous for lending its name to post-World War I Germany – the Weimar Republic. Germany’s first democratic constitution was signed here, thus creating the first German republic.

Also very important, Weimar’s contribution to the German Enlightenment started back in the 18th century. People like Johann Gottfried Herder, who was an early leader in the Sturm and Drang movement, along with Friedrich Schiller and  Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, defined Weimar Classicism. After World War I, Walter Gropius, who founded the Bauhaus movement along with Paul Klee and Wassily Kandinsky, gave Weimar its artistic roots.

Weimar, Germany

We are taking it easy on our trek through town but needed to visit a green area and this summer home of Goethe on the Ilm River seemed like a nice destination.

Caroline Wise in the Ilm River in Weimar, Germany

Or maybe our real goal was to find Caroline a place to step into the water so she could take the tradition we started in America into Europe?

Weimar, Germany

The actual graves of Goethe and Schiller are over in the Fürstengruft, which is the ducal burial chapel, but that is now closed for the day. This Goethe family memorial had to represent our visit to the cemetery.

Caroline Wise and John Wise in front of the Nietzsche Archive in Weimar, Germany

All this talk about history and we now get to my personal high point; though being able to visit would have been better, at least we had the chance to stand in front of the Nietzsche Archive. This is where Friedrich Nietzsche spent the last silent years of his life. He was not originally from Weimar, but his sister had a home here, right behind us, and in his years of mental collapse, it was the place where he would be cared for. While Nietzsche has played quite an important role in my life, I can never say with any certainty that I understood a word he wrote. Even the titles of his works are buried with meaning that may have escaped my puny brain. No matter, I still have the utmost respect for his brand of genius and am content that I’ve had the opportunity to be somewhere near where he once was.

Weimar, Germany

So here we are with so many important moments and personalities out of history, but our last monument is one that few people outside of Germany have likely heard of this is the Wildenbruch Monument. Ernst von Wildenbruch was a poet and dramatist. I can’t say I’ve ever heard of even one of his works, but seeing this statue memorializing him in the late-day sun, I couldn’t help but feel he was worthy of making a contribution to this blog.

Caroline Wise having a beer in Weimar, Germany

We’ll stay the night at the Hotel Röhrsdorfer Hof over in Chemnitz but first some dinner in Weimar. It was a beautiful day here in late April, and what’s better than enjoying a beer while sitting outside to enjoy the remaining sunset? It’s funny how, after seven years away from this experience, the flow of photos combined with the exercise of writing along with Caroline and my memories allowed me to put together a not-so-short narrative about the day. On to Dresden.

Hanging Out In Frankfurt

Eschenheimer Tor in Frankfurt, Germany

The train track into the city center from Heddernheim is still on a weekend construction schedule, meaning it only goes so far before we have to transfer to a bus to bypass the traffic snarl. Today’s drop-off point is at Eschenheimer Tor (gate), an old part of the city wall that once surrounded Frankfurt. Sadly, little evidence of that part of history still exists, although you can see on a city map of Frankfurt where the old fortification used to sit – they have been turned into a sort of green belt. This is also where we’ll pick up the train again as we make our way to the Hauptbahnhof (main train station). We have a short walk towards the river looking for a particular house.

Caroline Wise, Olaf Finkbeiner, and John Wise in Frankfurt, Germany

Olaf’s house is the one we are looking for, and we find him before we see his place. Standing in front of his building looking for us, it doesn’t look like this old friend has changed much at all. Upstairs in his large flat, we first meet his kids, Johnny and Lucy, and then his wife, Sylvia. A large table is set, and we are immediately invited to breakfast. Good thing that was scheduled as a part of our getting together. Like all of our meetings here in Germany, there are a few moments of getting reacquainted before falling into conversation as though time stood still during the intervening years, though the technology has dramatically shifted.

I first met Olaf back in 1989, maybe earlier, but my foggy memory can’t be sure. He was living down the street from us on Glauburgstrasse with To and Roman. Roman was and still is a musician. At the time, his project was called Schaum Der Tage, and To was a member. Through Olaf, I would also meet Uwe Schmidt, now known as Atom™. Just as importantly, maybe more so, Olaf gave me a copy of “No Sense Of Place – The Impact Of Electronic Media On Social Behaviour” by Joshua Meyerowitz; still one of my all-time favorite books. When Caroline and I got our first copy of Imagine (3D software) for the Amiga, Olaf was right there over our shoulder, curious about the entire process. After we moved to PC and Windows 3.0 and attended Cebit in 1990, we were given a free copy of 3D Studio ver. 1.0 by Autodesk, who apparently liked our story of what we’d accomplished so far. This would start a relationship with 3D software that would guide Olaf’s career.

After breakfast, Sylvia and Johnny had to leave for soccer practice. Lucy entertained herself in another room, and Caroline, Olaf, and I spent the next hours talking about social responsibility, education, technology, and virtual reality. There was little time for nostalgia as we only had four hours to cover the past 18 years, but what we did get to share left Caroline, and I encouraged and happy that we’d had this opportunity to spend the first part of the day with Olaf and had the chance to meet his family.

A Renault Twizy on the streets of Frankfurt, Germany

We left Olaf’s walking along the river with the idea of visiting the Architectural Museum, as I’ve been looking for books that detail Germany’s town centers. So far, we’ve not had any luck finding such a book, and it appears they may only be available from souvenir shops in the cities themselves. The reason behind this need has to do with the project I’ll be working on when I get back to the States. It involves virtual reality and the Oculus Rift, which I hope will be arriving shortly after our return. On the way to the museum, we passed this Renault Twizy, a two-person electric car. Watching it scoot along, we couldn’t help but want one. Wikipedia shows that it costs about $8,000, has a range of about 61 miles, and gets along at nearly 50mph. The museum was another dead end; nothing about the architecture of Middle Ages Germany. One more stop to make this morning, this one to visit Jutta. We only had a couple of hours with my mother-in-law, but she’s always happy to see us and still can’t believe we’re here.

From left to right; Caroline Wise, Klaus, Katharina, and Stephanie Engelhardt, Emilia, Michael, Isabella, and Yanik Meyer.

Time to head back to Stephanie and Klaus’s. Today, we are meeting Klaus’s brother and his family. While we were away, Klaus (a terrific cook we are learning) made a cake with a bunch of fresh fruit. Shortly after we returned the Meyer’s arrived, also with a homemade cake. Michael is Klaus’s younger brother. He’s married to Isabella, whose family is originally from Spain. Their two children are twins named Yanik and Emilia.

Caroline Wise and Yanik Meyer riding scooters in Frankfurt, Germany

After cake and coffee, the eight of us headed out for a walk so the four kids (including my wife) could go out and play. This little scooter proved valuable on another day, as parking is often some distance from the house due to a lack of available spots. Caroline needed something from the car, and Stephanie suggested she take Katharina’s scooter. I do believe if we lived within scootering distance from work, Caroline would have one of these in Phoenix.

The Ursel bach (stream) flowing near Stephanie and Klaus's in Frankfurt, Germany

Not only is the train stop nearby, but the grocery and a pizza place too, a small stream and green belt also run through the community. To get to this lush setting, we only walked a few minutes up the street before being greeted by this surprise. Surprise because here we are a few weeks into our trip here and we are just now learning of it.

Katharina and Klaus Engelhardt sharing some laughs in a local playground. Frankfurt, Germany

Let me update this to FIVE kids. Klaus dared sit down on the “Crazy Spinny Vomit Inducer Thingy” and allowed me to do my best spinning him so fast that centrifugal force nearly launched him into a neighboring country. Just before the flight (and my attempt to capture the moment Klaus became an astronaut), he put down a foot to brake himself. This probably doesn’t require stating the obvious, but Katharina was hysterical with laughter watching Dad spinning at hundreds, if not millions, of revolutions per minute.

Katharina Engelhardt and her aunt Caroline enjoying a moment at the park in Frankfurt, Germany

It’s easy to believe that Katharina has really enjoyed getting to know her aunt Caroline. The two of them have spent as much time together as our busy schedule has allowed. Just nine days after we leave, Katharina will become a teenager, so the next time we see this happy, well-adjusted niece of Caroline’s, she’ll be well on her way to being a young lady. It’s been great getting to know her a little while she’s still so innocent and happy. If only all of us could be so excited and enthusiastic about our time in life.

Emilia playing in the sand

While the big kids played, the younger ones had no problem entertaining themselves. At this age, Emilia and her brother Yanik are amazed by everything around them, and it’s obvious how busy Isabella stays as she pushes, prods, and pulls them from potential danger. Though at times, like this one in the sandbox, we all get to sit back and watch them play.

Stephanie Engelhardt in Frankfurt, Germany

I could have Photoshopped this to make it really look like Stephanie was knuckle-deep with her finger in her nose, but I thought better of it and decided to leave it looking like maybe she was covering her mouth while coughing, which she wasn’t. She’s wearing two pairs of glasses, as all moms have extra eyes in which to watch their children when they think they can hide from mom’s all-knowing vision of everything they do.

Yanik considering his options with the intriguing water rushing by. Frankfurt, Germany

And this is the reason mothers need extra eyes. Yanik considers his options as he watches the intriguing, sparkly, fast-moving water rush by. He, Katharina, and Emilia had been lying down on a small bridge, dipping their hands into the water underneath them. Well, if this was so much fun, maybe getting in the stream would be great fun, too. Not if you’re Isabella; Mom was on constant vigil as he tempted fate by getting just an inch or two from the stream when he could. The photo is of him before he got close; here, he’s still far away. In a moment, he was but a grass blade away from taking a swim.

Caroline Wise, Klaus and Katharina Engelhardt, with Michael Meyer in Frankfurt, Germany

After a couple of hours of walking through the park and playing, it was nearly time to bid farewell to the Meyer family. It’s been a great afternoon getting to know a little about Klaus’s brother and his family. Before they left, there was some time left for scooter races and even time for Michael to try riding Katharina’s Wave Board. So far, this has been a perfect day.

Zur Golden Kron (The Golden Crown) restaurant in Frankfurt, Germany

How to put the icing on perfection? A perfect meal, that’s how! Klaus, Stephanie, Katharina, Caroline, and I took the train one stop back towards Frankfurt city center and then walked the rest of the way to Zur Golden Kron (The Golden Crown) restaurant. From the white asparagus soup to the Austrian-style dessert, our dinner in one of Klaus’s favorite places was amazing. And now it really has been a perfect day from start to finish.

Museum Day

The Städel Art Museum in Frankfurt, Germany

While here in Germany doing what we can to keep my mother-in-law Jutta motivated as she recovers from her broken hip, Caroline has been getting some time in for her job back home in Phoenix, Arizona. This means that early mornings and late evenings are spent on her laptop trying to put in some hours, so this time here doesn’t count against vacation. With most “tourism” sites opening at 10:00, we have the morning for Caroline to put in a couple of hours. By 9:30 today, we hopped on the train and headed for the museum district along the Main River. Our first destination is the Städel Art Museum.

The Death of Marat (a copy) at Städel Art Museum in Frankfurt, Germany

Astonishment greeted me as we walked up a stairway to see this painting staring at us. Unfortunately, it is not the “original.” That version hangs in the Musée Royaux des Beaux-Arts in Brussels, Belgium. While Jacques-Louis David is the original artist of “The Death of Marat,” it was in his workshop that copies were made; this is one of them.

The Rabbi by Marc Chagall in Städel Art Museum Frankfurt, Germany

There are many known artists on display at the Städel, but only a handful are personal favorites, such as Marc Chagall here. This is his work titled The Rabbi.

The Lamb from Paul Klee in the Städel Art Museum Frankfurt, Germany

From Paul Klee – The Lamb. It’s a sheep thing due to the wife’s obsession with all things fiber!

Pietá by Franz Von Stuck in the Städel Art Museum Frankfurt, Germany

Caroline, too has some favorites featured here; this is “Pietá,” painted by Franz Von Stuck back in 1891.

The Weaver by Max Liebermann at the Städel Art Museum in Frankfurt, Germany

Another for the wife; Max Liebermann’s “The Weaver.”

The Artist's Family by Otto Dix at the Städel Art Museum in Frankfurt, Germany

Since learning of Otto Dix, he has remained a constant favorite of mine for 35 years. While I was living in Germany from 1985 through 1995, I would visit any museum I could find after learning that they may have a Dix on display. This is his work “The Artist’s Family,” painted in 1927. If I’m not mistaken, the largest collection of his work is housed at the Kunstmuseum in Stuttgart, Germany.

The new foot bridge across the Main River in Frankfurt, Germany

Across the street from the Städel is a new footbridge over the Main that brought us to the path that took us to the Frankfurt Historical Museum.

High water marks at Eiserne Steg in Frankfurt, Germany with Caroline Wise

On the way up that side of the river, we pass an older bridge, Eiserne Steg. Here’s Caroline standing just a few steps above street level with the high-water marks noting the flood levels of the Main River.

A model at the Frankfurt Historical Museum depicting Frankfurt following its destruction during World War II

Once in the Historical Museum, we came upon an old favorite of mine, the model of Frankfurt after it was destroyed during World War II. In a sense, Frankfurt was lucky to have this occur; it allowed for the modernization of the city. Without the destruction, rebuilding this city would have proven nearly impossible, as widening streets and tearing out narrow historical wooden buildings would have taken decades to resolve with owners and lawsuits that would have worked to protect the history of the city. What came out of the ashes became the banking capital of Europe.

Caroline Wise at the Frankfurt Historical Museum

Caroline tried on 22 pounds of gear, simulating the suit of armor worn by knights. Fearsome, isn’t she?

A row of knights armor on display at the Frankfurt Historical Museum

After our morning into the afternoon museum walk, it was once again time to visit Jutta, followed by taking ourselves to dinner. But this wasn’t any old dinner, as we had been invited to join To and Caroline at their apartment on Friedberger Landstrasse. Caroline is To’s wife; they married two years ago, and she’s an art history major when not working at a job that pays. To make us grünne sosse (green sauce), which is that Frankfurt specialty dish I wrote of back on our first full day in Germany. After eating, we talked and talked until nearly midnight. Meeting with old friends and new ones (it was great to meet you, Caroline Ka Punkt) is like putting on an old suit of armor; it just fits right. With an unceremonious 23-second goodbye and rush down the stairs, we were hoofing it to catch the next train. Tomorrow morning at 8:00, we have a breakfast date with another old friend.