Forgotten Washington – Day 5

Disclaimer: This post is one of those that ended up being written years after the experience was had. Sadly, there were no notes taken so whatever is shared here must be extracted from the images and what memories they may have lent us. Fortunately, there was an itinerary still in my directory of travel plans, so that will help with some details. As to why this wasn’t noted or blogged about, I was in the throes of writing/editing my book Stay In The Magic and felt that any other deep writing would derail that fragile effort.

Can you believe it? This is Junior Ranger Caroline with Alice Cullen, who is played by Ashley Greene from the hit movie Twilight. We are up here in Forks, Washington, for Twilight Fanfest 2011 and ran into Ashley, who had shapeshifted into a two-legged horse.

And, of course, this is Edward Cullen, played by Robert Pattinson, who was in character trying to avoid the crowds by being inconspicuous. Damn, we sure loved these movies and wish they’d return. There’s not a day that goes by we don’t dream about Midnight Sun coming out someday.

Is this the path to Transylvania, or am I remembering the wrong vampire film?

Whoever’s playing the joke with the sign pointing us to this moss-covered credenza had me fooled, thinking I was about to find a “Moss Covered Three-Handled Gradunza.” Silly me for confusing things.

You probably haven’t figured it out yet, but we are in the Hoh Rain Forest, which is part of the Olympic National Park and the beginning of the serious part of this blog post that I have very little to say about.

Shoot, I don’t know what I can seriously say about this close-up shot of spore plants and other things I know little of.

Is it enough to share that I like wood tones surrounded by various hues of green?

Then there are these trees straddling a dead tree in a kind of necromantic multi-year ritual that we witnessed on our first visit to this coastal forest.

Come on, Caroline, I needed a scowl as whoever heard of a story featuring a friendly smiling tree troll?

Here we are, standing in front of the only moss-covered pay-phone in the entirety of the United States, which probably no longer exists. Did we miss our golden opportunity to call people using quarters to access a landline? Hmm, a smartphone that uses quarters, now there’s a great idea. I know what you are thinking, a smartphone doesn’t have space to store many quarters? I got that figured out, too: a Kevlar pouch attached to the phone to accept the coins, which would also stop people from breaking into said phone.

There was no way on a day with bright blue skies and our proximity to the coast that we wouldn’t allocate at least some small amount of time to visit. We’ll skip the Quinault Rain Forest, which is also part of the Olympic National Park, as we do have a flight later tonight that will bring us back to Phoenix.

There was a large root ball nearby with possibly 100s of cairns stacked upon its old sun-dried roots, but my photographs didn’t offer even one that was worth sharing. That’s a good thing, though, as there always needs to be another mystery for others to find, or what hope of finding your own magic is there?

Caroline is searching for that mystery.

This is the reason Washington beaches are not known for sunbathing; how would anyone get comfortable laying on logs?

Sometimes, when searching for something to say about a photo, I learn far more than I could have imagined. My first question here was, “How long do barnacles live?” The answer is 5 to 10 years. Well then, how long might these barnacles have been attached to this mussel so I can figure out how old the barnacles are? The answer didn’t really give me the answer I wanted, as it turns out that mussels can live to be 60 to 70 years old. That means a typical mussel can host 6 to 14 generations of barnacles on its shell. Now I have to reevaluate if I’m willing to eat a bivalve that could be older than me.

Why is exploring nature better than visiting Versailles in Paris, France? At the Palace of Versailles, you are only allowed to look at what’s decreed by others who restrict your access, while in nature, you can look in the cracks, corners, and under the rocks of what nobody may have ever looked at before.

Writing the above, I realized that at this moment in Caroline’s life, I was the only person to see her. So, in a sense, she embodies all the treasure found in Versailles and all the potential found in nature, and lucky me has the opportunity to continue my exploration of her potential; love is that grand. By the way, we have stopped at the Kalaloch Lodge for some lunch; Caroline’s beer is from Fish Tale Ale, and the glass reads, “Reel Fish Swim Naked.”

From our lunchtime overview, we had about 4 hours without stops to reach the Sea-Tac airport. Obviously, we did make stops, but for the sake of this blog journey into the Pacific Northwest, this is the end of the road.

Forgotten Washington – Day 4

Disclaimer: This post is one of those that ended up being written years after the experience was had. Sadly, there were no notes taken so whatever is shared here must be extracted from the images and what memories they may have lent us. Fortunately, there was an itinerary still in my directory of travel plans, so that will help with some details. As to why this wasn’t noted or blogged about, I was in the throes of writing/editing my book Stay In The Magic and felt that any other deep writing would derail that fragile effort.

The momentum of having completed some rudimentary narrative for the previous three days has me wanting to continue and get the last two days of this trip knocked out, but I’m sitting in a coffee shop this summer afternoon in 2021, and I’m falling flat. Sure, the photo of the low sun in the fog looks dramatic, but I’ve got nothing good in my head about this day. Maybe due to the tension that was about to boil over today, I purged this part of the trip as much as possible as it turned out in some ways not to be ours.

Our friend Kirk apparently had developed a crush on Rainy, and being as smitten as he was, he went overboard, making himself the center of attention to the point of being overbearing. By the time I had to let him know that Caroline and I needed some “us” time up in the mountains of Olympic National Park, I’d already been smoldering that he was hijacking our vacation instead of sharing it. The dumb thing about this situation is that we’d do the exact same thing later in the year when we’d invite someone else named Caroline to join us in Oregon, where we’d learn that we didn’t want to travel with her either. The trouble there was that she was scheduled to join us on the Alsek River up in Canada and Alaska the following summer. I’m yet to blog about the Oregon trip but I’m pretty sure it’ll be relatively easy to push her to the side as I did with the blog post about the Alsek.

Just give us some nature, wildlife, coast, some small restaurants, a coffee or two, and each other’s hand, and Caroline and I can be perfectly content to walk through our world. Our sympathy for those who don’t vacation as much as we do but voice envy about our privilege needs to be limited as the difficulty of meeting their ideas for lodging, food, waking, sleeping, walking, and quiet are not compatible with John and Caroline Wise. I should make one exception as we have always enjoyed traveling with my mother-in-law Jutta, well, except those times when I get cranky but seriously, our time spent with Caroline’s mother has been terrific over and over.

The forest doesn’t perform for us; it doesn’t try to make us laugh or demand that we look at it. It’s just a forest that does what it does and probably does it better when humans are not around. It’s our good fortune to be able to visit such places where serenity can be experienced.

What’s the difference between this image of the sun whispering to us through the fog while silhouettes of trees act as columns holding up the sky to a cathedral where the sun streams through stained glass and we stand before such a sight as us worshippers kneeling in the nave before the beauty surrounding us? To answer this, I’d have to suppose that humanity has forgotten how to be smitten by the natural world and has even grown numb to the artifice found all around them in their world of contrivances.

Nothing needs to be done to this piece of driftwood to make it more dramatic or give it greater utility; it is perfect and beautiful.

The layers! Caroline will know what I meant.

Some random spider spent the energy and time to construct and likely repair this beautiful web full of morning dew. The temporary nature of webs is like friendships: they are constructed in relative haste, serve a short-term purpose, and then fade unless constant attention is given to them. But even the spider finds it more effective to simply take the hour and spin a new one the next day. I wish I had the wisdom of spiders.

Here I am in 2021, assembling this blog post, and I could have made my life easier by leaving out the redundant images that are iterations of dozens of others that effectively show the same thing. But my desire to refresh my memories with distant fragments of things seen with these eyes is insatiable even though at this point where thousands of blog posts and possibly 10’s of thousands of images have been shared, it will be difficult to review them all in my remaining lifetime. But still, I enjoy knowing that I could stumble upon them in the future, and they’ll bring a smile to my face, or I’ll discover a detail I missed before.

This brave deer stood motionless looking at the human standing motionless staring at it. Maybe we were both incredulous that the other creature seemed safe enough for this moment that we could stop and dwell in consideration of what the other was thinking. Strangely enough, there were two other encounters with deer today, at least as far as photographic proof is concerned.

Even when alone with our thoughts in places such as this, while Caroline and I can be aware of our togetherness, we can still find those quiet moments of aloneness where we are here with the mushrooms, newts, moss, ferns, birds, and fog.

Instead of acting as prisms to see the details of the leaf or surrounding forest, it appears that the water droplets are acting as mirrors of the foggy sky overhead, and so they have taken on this silvery appearance. What the truth is doesn’t matter, as the only important thing is that the droplets are enchanting.

Oh yeah, I just posted that other trail photo with Caroline walking; oh well, I have a soft spot for these scenes.

Kirk and I met back in 1995 when I was opening an internet cafe, he worked as a cook in the kitchen, and you can rest assured that he’s a dick.

I would have never guessed that we’d see Mt. Rainier three days in a row, and this time from our ascent into Olympic National Park, over 100 miles away from that majestic mountain.

Mount Olympus as seen from Hurricane Ridge.

Flowers as seen by humans.

Humans as recorded by electronics after being illuminated by photons.

Ptarmigan a.k.a. grouse seen in Olympic National Park.

This was the only real reason for our trip to Washington this summer; Caroline wanted her Junior Ranger Badges from Mt. Rainier and Olympic National Parks.

On our way out to the northwestern edge of the continental United States.

Seriously, I don’t really know what I can say about driftwood covered in moss in front of the blue waters of this lake other than it’s kind of sexy.

The spots of sunlight were all I needed to find this magical.

Caroline and I first visited this tiny corner of the earth back in 2002, and so it was only nine years later when we returned, but as I write this, it’s now been ten years since that visit in 2011. No matter, really, as I never dreamt we’d go two times, so missing a third is not a disappointment.

I’d like to tell you that I photographed Caroline standing back there years ago, but as I studied the image of her on a similar bend in the boardwalk, I came to the conclusion that it is not the same spot.

Tatoosh Island and the Cape Flattery Lighthouse.

Can’t go any further down here at the cliffside where America falls into the ocean.

The last time we were in Neah Bay, we got an earful about the desperate economic situation of the indigenous Makah people. While we visited the small museum here in town before we ventured out to Cape Flattery today, it just didn’t feel like enough, so we took up a table at a bayside restaurant to try and offer just a little more support of the Makah Tribe. Thirty years after I really started becoming aware of the plight of America’s original population, I still can’t help but feel repulsion at how ineffective the dominant culture has been in supporting people outside the narrow definition of who is considered the real American.

Forgotten Washington – Day 3

Disclaimer: This post is one of those that ended up being written years after the experience was had. Sadly, there were no notes taken so whatever is shared here must be extracted from the images and what memories they may have lent us. Fortunately, there was an itinerary still in my directory of travel plans, so that will help with some details. As to why this wasn’t noted or blogged about, I was in the throes of writing/editing my book Stay In The Magic and felt that any other deep writing would derail that fragile effort.

There were other ways we could have gone; we could have stayed over on the mainland and just driven south, but the opportunity to catch an early morning ferry couldn’t be passed up. While maybe just a utility to locals, ferries for both Caroline and I are part of an adventure that takes us and our car over the sea, magic.

Trying to take a selfie looking into the sun is never a good idea and I hate that big old shadow it creates there on my chest, which isn’t too bad as typically it’s on our face.

Kirk recommended that when we hit Seattle we had to go to Beth’s Cafe on Aurora Avenue and hope we were arriving early enough to beat the crowds to this popular eatery. We only had minutes to wait.

I’m not sure if it’s the food or the art on the wall that makes this place so popular, but if more restaurants featured hand drawings of people asking to see my chocolate starfish, I know I’d be a regular customer of that establishment.

While a cute snail can hardly compete with demons with meat horns and murder shakes, we’ll know that for at least part of a morning, the art of Caroline graced the walls of Beth’s.

Our mountain of breakfast was wheeled to our table and then three men of a muscular stature lifted the plate that would feed the four of us with food left over for at least three others. You will not find a larger breakfast. Seriously, that’s a 12-egg omelet.

Well, it turns out that Archie McPhee’s toy store can be a great distraction. I should say that Caroline and I were lucky we flew in as if we’d had our car with us; we might have left with a bunch of things we never really needed, but that didn’t stop Rainy and Kirk from leaving with a few choice items.

Since this was Rainy’s first time in Seattle, Washington, an obligatory trip to the Pike Place Market was in order, especially for her to visit the world’s first Starbucks, a.k.a. the Mothership for baristas of that brand.

Caroline and I had a different location that was our pilgrimage, it was the Seattle location of Kinokuniya. We’d been to the Los Angeles location many a time but this was our first time here. Japanese books, magazines, videos, and assorted gifts are the specialty, and while we could forego toys, we’ll never be able to leave one of these stores empty-handed.

Did I tell you that we’d visited Archie McPhee’s?

That was enough of Seattle, and we are now back on a ferry.

The dangers of Archie McPhee’s. We laughed pretty hysterically for a good 30 minutes out here.

I don’t know about you, but that big ass mountain hiding a big ass volcano inside the friendly snow-covered peak sure doesn’t look like it’s over 75 miles away from where we are on Puget Sound.

The look of celebrating horses on a ferry to Bainbridge Island.

Caroline has been suffering from “Yarn Fever” for a long time now; here we are at the Churchmouse Yarns & Teas on Bainbridge Island.

Because somehow there are men out there who don’t understand this idea yet.

I don’t know where the time went, but somehow, all the goofing off and shenanigans ate up our day. We are heading to Sequim for our night at the Great House Motel, which was $80 then and only $99 here in 2021.

Update: just two years later, in late 2023, the price is down to $55. I have the sense that there’s something wrong with our economy and the state of health regarding small companies. 

Don’t ask; I’m just the photographer.

I insist that I’ve never kissed this person, ever.

Forgotten Washington – Day 2

Disclaimer: This post is one of those that ended up being written years after the experience was had. Sadly, there were no notes taken so whatever is shared here must be extracted from the images and what memories they may have lent us. Fortunately, there was an itinerary still in my directory of travel plans, so that will help with some details. As to why this wasn’t noted or blogged about, I was in the throes of writing/editing my book Stay In The Magic and felt that any other deep writing would derail that fragile effort.

In yesterday’s post, I mentioned that we were staying in Arlington to position ourselves for a big adventure. We needed to be in Anacortes by 9:00 a.m. sharp and so with the four of us needing to coordinate showers and breakfast, I wanted to be close enough to our destination that we wouldn’t be late.

Today’s kayak trip was taking across a bay over to Burrows Island.

There were no photos of us crossing the bay as my camera was in a waterproof bag, but as soon as we were sitting in a shadow on very calm water, I was able to bring it out and snap a couple of under-exposed images.

While we are accustomed to seeing jellyfish in aquariums and dead on the shore, it’s not very often we see them alive in their natural habitat. Had this been a Portuguese man o’ war, I would have been worried as that would mean we had somehow arrived in the Atlantic Ocean, and well, that would have been pretty strange.

From snowshoes, Seadoos, bicycles, rafts, ferries, and kayaks, Caroline and I are having the times of our lives as we get to travel through our environments by all manner of craft and by foot as we invest in these experiences. All it has taken is a strong commitment and the occasional taking on some debt for these important explorations of pushing ourselves further than we might have imagined.

Writing this part of my recollections, I can’t help but be critical and wish that we’d been doing this kayaking thing far more often than we have. It had been just two years prior to this trip that Caroline and I first ventured out on the water in a kayak on the Atlantic coast, and then the very next day, we were over on the warm Gulf waters in the Florida Keys kayaking for our second time. Just one year prior had been our first encounter with the whitewater of the Colorado River in the Grand Canyon, and now here we are, hoping we just might see orcas. Living in the desert doesn’t make finding this practice time any easier.

I can go ahead and tell you right now that we did not see a single orca today, but our guide spotted this skeleton shrimp in a clump of seaweed floating at the surface, and well, that was good enough for us, exciting even. It’s not every day that one finds themselves kayaking a stretch of the Pacific Ocean next to an island and just spots such a tiny creature. But why was this so “exciting?” This creature had just been discovered in the past year and here’s our guide just finding one like that! This makes us some of the first humans to see this species in the wild; I got my money’s worth.

I don’t know how we were gifted with perfect weather at Mt. Rainier yesterday, nor can I explain that we had a wonderfully calm ocean for our kayaking trip.

Out of Burrow Bay and onto Burrow Island for lunch.

A fourth-order Fresnel lens once sat in here, but in 1972 it was replaced with an automated system seen here.

The lighthouse went into operation in 1905.

Lucky for us, we’re not in a hurry to get back on the water and can just linger a while enjoying the sea…

… the nice weather and the view of my beautiful wife, it’s all so lovely out here.

It’s a rare day that we travel with others and while there can be issues of bumping us out of our isolation and needing to accommodate these fellow travelers, we’d like to believe it does us good to not always have everything our way.

On the southwest corner of the island, we got into some current that made us work hard to escape it. This very idea that the water could push and pull us where it wanted to take our kayak was unnerving for me as I started entertaining ideas that as we paddled against the flow, we’d roll out of the kayak, and I’d be in the water I didn’t want to encounter.

But here we are, back on land when this happened. As Kirk worked to get out of his kayak, a long, solid ripping sound was heard that left little to the imagination of what had occurred. Caroline ran to Kirk’s car to grab his overnight bag so he could change and repair the dignity that remained in his boat.

At over one hundred miles away, I’m struck that we can see Mt. Rainier in the distance. Or, is the earth really flat, and this 14,411-foot (2.7 miles / 4.4 kilometer) tall mountain is only visible because of the flatness? I quickly do the geometry in my puny head and realize that if that mountain were on that shore and stood almost 3 miles high, it would be a lot higher than what I’m seeing, so if it’s that short, it must be sitting on a curve that slopes out of view! Nah, the earth is flat.

Dinner was at a Thai restaurant, as we’d not learned yet that ethnic food in small towns never failed to let us down. Lodging was at the Acorn Motor Inn for $79, and upon checking their prices ten years later, it would only cost us $89 a night to stay again.

Forgotten Washington – Day 1

Disclaimer: This post is one of those that ended up being written years after the experience was had. Sadly, there were no notes taken so whatever is shared here must be extracted from the images and what memories they may have lent us. Fortunately, there was an itinerary still in my directory of travel plans, so that will help with some details. As to why this wasn’t noted or blogged about, I was in the throes of writing/editing my book Stay In The Magic and felt that any other deep writing would derail that fragile effort.

The day starts at the Chaco Canyon Cafe, an all-organic joint great for the vegetarians in the crowd, meaning Caroline. Our old friend Kirk is joining us, not just for breakfast but for the duration of the trip.

As I’m writing this here in 2021, I feel like I should get this out of the way right up front. Never hire friends, ever. Three years after this photo was taken, Rainy left Starbucks to work for me on a virtual reality startup. It couldn’t have been more than a few weeks after that start date that things turned adversarial. While Rainy ended up working for me until I fired everyone, things didn’t work out so “well” with Kirk. I’d already been operational for two years when Kirk joined us, moving from Seattle down to Phoenix for the opportunity. Through a series of blunders on my side and the general circumstances surrounding a startup, Kirk was fired along with the other 27 other members of the company. Things didn’t go well on his account, and we are no longer friends. Well, Rainy and I are no longer friends anymore either. I guess that should be expected when you not only fail yourself, and your investors but your vulnerable employees too. Sadly, I mostly purged Kirk’s presence from my site after our bitterly acrimonious falling out that hurt me deeply, but now that I feel like I could be over it, I miss that he was once a part of my life as he really was mostly a great guy.

I will not focus any more attention on Rainy and Kirk as neither of them will likely ever see these blog posts but I will include mentions and photos when they played an integral role in the course of the day.

Before leaving for Seattle, Caroline and I were considering a bike tour of the city if Rainier was locked under a cover of clouds, but waking under such beautiful skies and seeing that things were clear south of us, we headed for Mount Rainier for a hike.

Selfies in front of National Park signs always seem like the right thing to do in our ongoing attempt to capture us in front of all the National Parks of the United States, and a second shot is just incredibly lucky. Click here to see our visit back in July of 2004.

While I’m not 100% certain that we didn’t visit in between as I write this, our previous visit was possibly back in 2004 when, on July 3rd of that year, we arrived at Mt. Rainier under snow and clouds.

We are on the Comet and Christine Falls Trail, which is a 3.2-mile roundtrip hike that is rated as moderate with 1,279 feet of elevation gain.

At the time we crossed over this dandy log bridge, I took it for granted, but as I was researching details for this post, I saw that it’s broken and that for many people the end of the line for reaching the Comet Falls.

Caroline approaching Comet Falls on a perfect day.

There are so many beautiful views in this park on the trail that it’s difficult to share only those I’m posting but with my style of writing to each photo I include, I would only make my chore of writing impossible if I chose more.

I think visitors have been feeding the birds, probably at an alarming rate because since when do birds just fly up and land on your hands?

It’s so hard not to be compelled to take a hundred photos of the mountain that is notorious for being elusive.

Of course, a Junior Ranger badge was required. How else was Caroline going to know even more about this park?

With her ranger badge firmly pinned to her chest, it was time to celebrate with a toast of Rainier Beer under the shadow of Rainier.

Apparently, the foxes of Mt. Rainier also know the taste of human food. Do you think it prefers Oreo cookies or Cheetos?

Nope, I’m not getting bored of this view.

Sure, there are other views, and under normal circumstances, these layers of fading mountains in the distance would have been enough to stop for a photo, but come on, we’re at Mt. Rainier, and we’re not here to cheapen our memories. Oh wait, I’m sharing this suboptimal view into nothingness, but that’s okay, as whatever visually came after leaving the area is lost due to my failure to take more photos. In all likelihood, I skipped photos due to our 3.5-hour drive up north to Arlington, Washington, so we’d be well-positioned for tomorrow’s big adventure.

Daniel

Daniel Billotte out for lunch, but not quite so out for lunch as had happened some years ago

Had lunch with Daniel Billotte today. Not the lunch we had planned, the Pho joint wasn’t open so we scrambled to find something nearby. We ended up at a small urban bistro. The story here is that Daniel and I from time to time make an effort to stay in contact. He and I met some 15 years ago while working at the Marion Foundation. During the intervening years, Daniel has often gone nomad finding himself living in New Zealand, Australia, and Fiji for close to half a year, working at an apple orchard to support his scuba adventures on the Great Barrier Reef. For a time he lived in Santa Cruz where I was never sure if he was a programmer, a graphic designer, or a surfer. A year or more goes by and I get an email from the guy, he’s in India, still haven’t found out the specifics about that trip. Then about a year ago, he announces that he’s getting married in Sedona, Arizona. I’m not big on weddings, no matter how good a friend someone is, so I cannot offer details about that event either. Today we got together to talk about travels, discuss some technology threads, touch on politics, evolution, taxes, and just shoot the poop.