Day 1 – Frankfurt Arrival

I’d been in Frankfurt for about five hours before I took a moment to sit down at MyZeil to share some impressions. Much of the airport is still closed. Germany would have been closed to me if I hadn’t been able to call my brother-in-law Klaus and have him verify the reason for my arrival during the pandemic. Our stories matched, and after they had checked all the documents I had photographed (one with Caroline and her passport, our marriage certificate, the document that notes that she took my name), I showed my return ticket along with a couple of other things such as the name of my mother-in-law’s assisted living center and had explained that I would be staying in her apartment, only after all that, I watched as my passport was stamped for entry. Klaus picked me up shortly after that and took me directly to Saalburgstrasse 46, where I’ll be staying. We caught up a bit, but then I needed to head out for a bite to eat and to make my first visit with Jutta Engelhardt, my mother-in-law.

Around the corner from the apartment is Zeiss Metzgerei, where I never fail to stop for a slice of roasted pork belly on a Brötchen mit senf (roll with mustard). I’m sharing the image of the bag with my sandwich because very few places are offering somewhere to sit down and those that do are only serving people outside. To be seated at a restaurant, you have to show proof of vaccination. So, I’m outside, it’s raining lightly, and I have my computer on my back and camera on my shoulder. As I was still evaluating the relative safety of the area here on Bergerstrasse (there are usually quite a few beggars and shady types hanging out), I was keeping things tight as I stood under an awning, quickly wolfing down my Schweinebauch-Brötchen.

Living in Phoenix, we are confronted with a constant flow of people on street corners holding up placards, begging for a handout, and offering us blessings from God; store parking lot driveways are also popular begging spots. In Frankfurt, they are sitting against a building holding up signs explaining their destitute situation, but you also have those who approach you directly, asking for some change. Then there are people somewhere between poverty and homelessness who want cigarettes or a lighter. There’s something that feels more confrontational about these situations. Later in the day, I was walking by groups of beggars that seemed either like family or maybe a small gang of friends who I couldn’t help but feel were taking inventory of the person passing by as they tried to get me to acknowledge their needs. I just keep going without a word.

With something to sustain me and wanting to put the beggars behind me, I headed for the U-Bahn to catch the U4 to Römer. Jutta is now living at an assisted living facility on Buchgasse 1, and it took me a minute or two to find the entrance.

John and Jutta in Frankfurt

After a quick hello, it just so happened that I was right on time before Caroline jumped into her day to Skype her into our first meeting so the three of us could share some big smiles. I showed Jutta some photos of our recent trip to Monterey and the Big Sur Coast in California, and after a quick hour of reminiscing about past adventures, including her first trip to America that took her up that very same coast, I was back out on the street, just as the sun was emerging. I had wanted to stay longer, but jet lag was hammering at me in the warmth of my mother-in-law’s room.

The first thing to notice about Frankfurt today is how empty everything is. Streets are quiet, pedestrian traffic is way off, and many shops are still closed, while those that are open have strict entry procedures, including a few that check for your vaccination or recent negative COVID-19 test before letting you in. While intermittent rain was coming and going, there should have been far more people out here next to the Main River on a spring day.

If I’m walking, I can’t fall asleep, and I need to stay awake until at least 9:00 p.m. This might have been a bad plan because while, yes, I was moving, I had so little cognitive ability that my wandering felt lost and meaningless. Sure, there’s the nostalgia of being in the city where Caroline and I fell in love, but I’m trying to appreciate how peculiar the situation is regarding the impact of COVID-19 on such an important European capital city. Instead, I move a bit slowly, uncertain where I’m going other than hoping to find an umbrella before the next shower.

This street, in normal times, would see bumper-to-bumper traffic and a ton of noise, but it’s quiet, with only a few cars passing here and there.

Part of the iconic (and unique to Germany) view of the city of highrises is taken near a vantage point where we watch the fireworks over Frankfurt every New Year’s Day. One of the small cruise ships that ply these waters for tourists and people wanting a couple of hours on the Main sipping wine was out in the middle of the channel, but no passengers could be seen on board; I’m hoping it’s a sign that they are getting ready to ramp up services again.

I walked through here on the way to Jutta’s when it was still raining and absolutely empty, but that photo was a bit grim, and half-timber buildings just look better in the sun anyway. Behind me is the Römer, the seat of city government, and before me is the Römerberg where one of the best Christmas markets is held when conditions allow.

As quickly as the sun came out, the clouds moved back in, so I dipped into Kleinmarkthalle where I’ll probably visit a dozen more times while I’m in the Frankfurt area. This covered farmers market has always been a favorite of mine as I’d never known anything like it before I took up residence in Frankfurt back in 1985. Stopping here for a cortado was not only meant to revive my heavy eyes, but I couldn’t help but think of our friend Angela, who brought us to the place that made her favorite coffee drink in Frankfurt some years ago that just happened to be right here.

On the other side of Kleinmarkthalle, with my coffee in hand, I found myself being serenaded by this Cuban busker playing clarinet for passersby, hoping to earn a few Euros. I threw some coins in and talked with him for a short while about his 30 years living in this city and his hopes that someday he could move to America. Seems that the pandemic has been especially hard on people on the economic margin of life in Germany.

Still, without an umbrella, I had to duck under an awning and wait for some fierce and heavy rain mixed with hail to pass before continuing my aimless walk through the city.

Just behind me is where I visited MyZeil, looking in even more earnest for an umbrella but also in need of a toilet. What the heck? The toilets are all closed, probably due to the pandemic. Then, like the determined person I am, I simply went through one of the passages where the “closed toilets” were supposed to be, but they were locked. …Or were they? Yes, the men’s room was definitely locked, but I heard female voices in the women’s room, so I waited. Their door didn’t close all the way, and so, although the handle was locked too and wouldn’t turn, I was able to use the facilities. I guess Germans aren’t wandering very far from home or drinking a lot while out getting some sun, as I didn’t see one open public toilet.

It was at this point that I started taking my first notes of the day I referenced in the first paragraph.

I can’t believe how familiar this city still is. When Caroline and I visited Frankfurt for the first time after 18 years away, I was kind of lost, but today things are all quite familiar. It was difficult to sit still writing anything as I wanted to keep on moving to see what I could see on my first day. I had ideas for dinner, but the fatigue of traveling around the earth to be here and only getting about two hours of sleep on my flight might change my plans.

I know I can’t do everything on day one, and I also know I have five more hours of daylight. The urgency to sleep nags at me with big yawns that tell me to get my blood flowing and keep walking. I know I have to stay awake until at least 9:00 p.m., though it feels like I could lay down on a nearby bench for a quick nap.

Wow, an E-Assist mini UPS delivery vehicle is being pedaled through the shopping area of Hauptwache; I’m seriously impressed. If these were 2-person affairs with space in the back for sleeping, I could see driving something like this through Yellowstone and going camping with it.

Speaking of Hauptwache, while the Hauptwache Cafe looked closed, it was open actually, but having apple strudel and cream for dinner seemed a bit heavy, so I kept walking in the direction I was going, which was in the general direction of the Hauptbahnhof (main train station). That got me thinking about this guy I know who lives nearby.

I texted Olaf, who had no idea I was coming to Germany, and asked him to take a walk down Kaiserstrasse and that maybe we’d bump into each other. Surprised, he headed out immediately, no questions asked. He helped me find a nice, inexpensive purple umbrella and then led us to an Imbiss (cafe and convenience store in one), where I had another coffee before we crossed the street to his apartment.

Whoa, Olaf’s “kids” grew up and are nearly adults! Sylvia was home, but of course, she was, as many people still are, working from home, though I did learn she’s had her first two days back in the classroom. Both Olaf and his wife are vaccinated; well, Olaf is halfway there. After covering things about life during the pandemic, I was hungry, but my plans were now certainly different than my intention when I left America; I needed food, and I needed it now.

Again, back across the street and up towards the Hauptbahnhof, we visited a Döner Kebab shop Olaf’s daughter Lucy recommended: it hit the spot. Döner is loosely known as gyros in America, but they are nothing alike because döner is actually great. All of a sudden, it was 9:00 p.m., and I still wanted to get some blog-related things out of the way, so we parted ways with the agreement that we’d meet again while I was in Germany for a cookout in his backyard.

Walking through the main train station area at 9:00 p.m. was a stupid idea as I felt I had “robbery victim” written all over my head. Moving with purpose, I was quickly on my way to the subway on the U4 back to Bornheim Mitte for the short walk to my mother-in-law’s apartment. This photo is for Caroline. It is a mural near her mom’s place that never fails to put smiles on our faces. Great, now I’m wired. Maybe I had too much coffee?

Day 0 – Destination Germany

United Airlines in Arizona

Well, here I am at the airport at 11:00 on a Monday morning, on my way to Denver, where I’ll be catching a plane this evening to Frankfurt, Germany. I’ll land in Frankfurt at 11:30 a.m. local time, which is 2:30 a.m. in Phoenix, Arizona. This is my first time in an airport in two years, and from the look of things, life is back to normal, aside from the masks.

My Uber driver showed up early, which ensured I got to the airport on time. Once at the check-in kiosk and having scanned my passport, I needed an airline rep to verify my documents. I was asked for my COVID test results, which pushed my launch buttons. I insisted that Germany recently changed the policy, and exceptions were made. Luckily, before I could transition to panic, the assistant spotted the exceptions button and verified my CDC vaccination document. Phew.

Because my TSA/KTN/Pre-check paperwork was still good, I was able to avoid the seriously long security line and breezed through that part of the gauntlet. As usual, I’m under stress as I do not look forward to the boarding process because I worry that my bag won’t fit in an overhead bin if I arrive at my seat late. And what do I do with all this extra time? Eat? Hmm, airport food. My options were slim, but I knew that.

Obviously, I turned to writing, but now that I have the easy, obligatory rundown of what transpired after I left home this morning, I’m floundering to find anything very meaningful to note here. I’m transfixed by what I’ve committed to and pretty much only see Germany on the horizon. I should note that it’s strangely quiet in the terminal, though there are a lot of people here, probably due to the masks that are muffling conversations. Maybe my mind is being muffled by this face covering? I know coffee will kick-start me.

The bar with bar food is the only option for a bite to eat at this terminal. It filled the lunch requirement, and having arrived at the airport so early, I endured the long line at Starbucks for the main reason for wandering away from the waiting area. Before I know it our row numbers are called to board our plane, and we are soon in the air, heading out of the desert.

While I’m flying with a full complement of software toys to occupy myself, the brevity of the flight has me reluctant to try digging into something that will take a bit of time to find flow with. So, why am I back at this writing stuff if the flow is so difficult to find? Because I don’t know what else to do in my narrow little seat. I know, I should have brought videos! No, that would absolve me from trying to discover an inkling of something to say beyond this low-hanging fruit of complaint.

Just barely at altitude, we are almost 30 minutes into our flight then in another 30 minutes, we’ll begin our descent. The beverage carts are out, and we’ve been reminded countless times that our masks are required at all times unless we are taking sips of our drink or eating.

If I were a betting man, I’d wager that the majority of my tensions here in the air are attributable to the total disdain I hold for those around me. Honestly, though, I hold no real insight into who these half-lives are; I’m only making assumptions based on some 50 years of looking people in the face and waiting for things to fall out. They confirm my bias or lend me new biases to assign to their character type, if that’s even really possible. After writing this out, I might tend to think I need a therapist to resolve all of this deep-seated animosity, except in the back of my puny brain, I know that life’s too short and that snap decisions must be made so I can protect the little bit of gray matter that still functions in this old man’s withering brain.

Sweet Jeezus, a passenger on my right, is in the third cycle of disinfecting herself and everything around her. Take a drink and immediately swab her face with an alcohol wipe. Stuff that infected wipe into the Ziploc bag she brought along just for the ritual. Then, in a flash, the enlightenment I didn’t know I really wanted: watch videos so you can tune everyone else around you out of existence. That’s the key: people watch TV to erase their existence and deny that anyone else might be intruding into whatever bit of awareness hasn’t died yet. Hence, zombie movies are popular as a kind of documentary of what, to me, looks like what happens when too much awareness has been kept alive.

Time to turn to the toilet, as isn’t that an essential consideration for flying? With a serious concentration on clearing my bowels before I left Arizona, I was successful in evacuating the old pooper at home. That’s right, in the comfort of my home, I was able to find excretory relief. This is important, as a man of 230 pounds who can’t imagine reaching down between my fat thighs to shove my hand into that tiny hole of a cold steel toilet I have to crap in and find my ass to clean it. I can’t really imagine how anyone has ever done that; hence, you can read this as my admission that I’ve never dropped a number 2 at 35,000 feet. Others are even more anxious than I am when it comes to evacuation while aloft, as I’ve seen much evidence left by the man who, knowing that women also have to use these facilities, failed to lift the seat and, in a moment of turbulence simply pissed willy-nilly all over the seat and much of the floor.

I should have more to share about my digestive process while flying, and just as I think I’m at a loss to offer more, I realize that many a reader might be able to relate to the situation that after a long-distance flight, the chocolate starfish on my backside seems to seal shut for approximately two days until it overcomes the trauma that might have required it to release in a space far too intimate for those who were broken during our formative potty-training years. Yep, I’m butthole and shit stink shy of ever enjoying whatever pleasure might exist by letting go of any mounting pressure while flying. For all the crap that flows from my mouth, I can imagine many people I’ve known wondering how somebody who lets so much fall from his maw should not take pride in pooping on a plane. Obviously, not one of my superpowers.

Approaching the time to descend into Denver.

And before I know it I’m on Lufthansa flight LH447 direct to Frankfurt, Germany. The flight will take 9 hours 45 minutes and already I’m relaxed as I’m surrounded by travelers going home to Sweden, Turkey, Germany, and other points I’ve not ascertained. Talked with a young American lady who is studying abroad and shared her difficulties of jumping through flaming hoops to get into Germany at this time. Even my entry is not a guaranteed deal, as I’ll have to convince the authorities that I have valid family reasons for coming to Europe. Hopefully, with the digital images of documents that show Caroline and I are married, Jutta’s number at her assisted living facility, and Klaus as the last resort to verify things, I’ll breeze through the gauntlet of challenges.

My flight has wifi, and my seat has an outlet, so I’m all set to remain busy getting these writings into my blog so Caroline might try keeping up with the onslaught of words that are about to start falling into her eyeballs and mind. For the moment, there are no photos to accompany the previous 1,800 words I drolled on with, but hopefully, as we fly along, I’ll take some photos that will likely look very similar to other photos I’ve taken from the air while heading towards Europe. Time to close this down for a few while we move towards take-off.

Quick note: we are 8,096km from Frankfurt, and the time of flight has been updated to 8 hours 45 minutes.

Airplane Food

Search harder, John; there must be something in that noggin I’ve not repeated 427 times already, but that’s all I’m finding as we skirt at a hair over 1,000 km/h above the surface of the earth. We just passed 10,000 meters in elevation and entered the bitter cold world of -54 Celsius. Dinner service is about to begin, which feels early, but it’s 5:30 p.m. in Phoenix and 6:30 in Denver, so I guess this is as good a time as any to sup. The wifi is not on yet, as I’m guessing they want to get everyone through dinner and drinks before people zone out in entertainment land. Just then, my memory tells me that I have cashews in my bag. Time for a pre-dinner snack.

I wonder, does Caroline miss me yet? We’ve already chatted 30 times and Skyped on video after I boarded my flight to Germany. I know she misses me, and I miss her. It would be pointless to go on and on about our situation, but that’s never stopped me from beating dead horses all over this blog. So I’ll reiterate this: I MISS CAROLINE. Ooh…the dinner cart is being dragged by.

Dinner was exactly what you might have expected: meh, but the brie was nice.

Seven hours forty-eight minutes to Frankfurt. My face was having a steam bath, but at least I was able to bum a surgical mask from another passenger that allowed me to exit the N95, which was seriously hotter. Fabric masks are not permitted, and passengers were informed that they’d be denied boarding if they didn’t put on one of the two types allowed.

Hazy View of the Sky

I’d like to grab a photo outside, but I’m on the left of the craft and have the sun pummeling me if I dare have my shade open; plus, it’s so hazy I’d have little to show you. Here, I’ll prove it.

Maybe I should have brought a book? I’d decided against it as, knowing me, I’d struggle to keep up processing photos and trying to capture the day in words. I managed to pack everything I’d need for 36 days in one carry-on bag; there was little room for much else. I even fit my pillow in my luggage.

Somehow, my thoughts drift to the idea that if I could just get on wifi and say hello to Caroline, I could relax into writing something more compelling than the mundane moment by moment blather I’m droning on about. Just because I’m aware of this shortcoming doesn’t mean I’m going to fight it and not continue this thread of nothingness, though.

The shades are closed and night has fallen on us here in our seats as the sun continues blazing outside our aircraft. Also continuing to blaze along are the vocal cords of infants who’ve been wailing for a good two hours. Slowly, they are starting to fade as, hopefully, the dimmed ambiance of the cabin and white noise will lull them to sleep. As for me, I’m trying to make it another two or three hours, so I might get three or four hours of sleep before stepping into mid-day after we land.

Just as I thought, following dinner, we were able to get online. For 17 Euros, I have a limited connection, and it wasn’t worth the $20 I’m paying. For 29 Euros or $34, I am promised a faster connection, but I’m reluctant to test those waters. Anyway, besides chatting the same thing over and over to Caroline, I don’t really want a connection to the larger world.

While the kids continue nattering away, with the loudest one finally done screaming, I’m getting sleepy, or so I’m trying to convince myself. Just then, the screaming Swedish baby starts up again, and her stressed-out mom heads for the back of the plane sans infant. I think the parent’s nerves are growing raw. Soon, my own nerves are going to fray. This baby is nearly relentless.

Late Night Over The Earth

We are under five hours from Frankfurt, and I’m getting nervous I won’t get a bit of sleep, though I’ve tried. I know I can muscle through tomorrow, but I’ll be spongy-brained. Hah, I can hear anyone who’s read this far thinking, “Dude, you already are spongy-brained.” I have tons of legroom as I’m in a seat behind a divider to business class, and no one is sitting next to me. I also don’t have any way of directing air at myself, and with this mask on, I’m overheating. I’m not inclined to take it off and test the system as stewards walk by regularly inspecting us for compliance. The Germans are not messing around as far as air travel is concerned.

The Swedish family is finally resting, as is the entire plane. I wish I knew how others were able to just go to sleep on command even though their body clock is likely saying, “Yo, it’s too early for this.”

Obviously, staring blankly at this screen won’t get me any restorative sleep, so once again, I’ll close up the laptop and try my best to get some sleep. Maybe with my shoes off, I’ll feel sleepier? Whatever.

Johns New Socks

There’s that place somewhere during a long-haul flight where one loses track of time. While trying to drift into sleep but keenly aware of a cramped body trying to find comfort in a near-vertical position, made more difficult by the tug of rubber bands from the mandatory mask behind my ears that seem to slice ever so slightly into flesh. But somehow, something sleep-like was had, and though it was fleeting, we tried to convince ourselves that we were now rested. How long had I slept well? It won’t be until you are face to face with a passport control officer that you realize how wrecked you are. Stepping into a busy city at mid-day while your internal clock tells you that it’s 2:00 a.m. is a subtle process that competes with trying to make sense of the dramatic shift in language and that you have to secure some local currency so you can move about freely. In the meantime, I can spend a few minutes trying to get a good photo of the new socks Caroline knitted me and that I’m wearing for the first time on this trip.

Morning On Approach To Europe

After starting to stir I thought it a good idea to peek outside. I was nearly blinded by this folly, but now I’m also fully aware that we transitioned from the dusk-like zone to the oh-my-god; it’s the middle of the day in a European capital that I’m about to encounter. Soon, the aircrew will start bringing up the lights to create an artificial transition to morning, and we’ll be served our first meal of the day. But this is an extension of last night, and I’m feeling confused. After a breakfast that, based on the clock, is too late, yet based on my body clock, it’s happening in the middle of the night; we’ll start the process of being ushered into the cattle yard to be sorted into our next destinations.

The last 20 hours of life spent in the process of traveling is a blur of moments trying to extract something meaningful that relates to what I am about to embark on, but the reality is that I squirm in roles of trying to be sophisticated and entertained, locked in a tiny space waiting for others to be finished with the transport of my body. This is not glamorous, nor is it enlightening; it’s mobility torture for the sake of celebrating mobility when one finally begins the real journey of being somewhere.

This is a powerful reminder that when confined. the internet is of little service in rescuing you from the inescapable. The internet, for me, is only able to fill gaps with mindlessness or knowledge when sandwiched into the luxury of options that I’m struggling to make. Do I go for coffee, make music, read, watch cat videos, meet a friend for lunch, or go grocery shopping? When no options exist but to persist in place, I find what the internet has to offer as banal as the TV I so vehemently eschew. I wonder how we encode options against the economic and time realities we exist within and how the media becomes the crutch we turn to when indecisiveness and ambiguity are facing us.

One plumbs a lot of boredom and idle time under constraints and restrictions to kick-start our minds into finding viable options to lead us through the moments where our decisions to act are severely diminished. Comfort to have options might not be our best friend when we are aware of our desire to manifest a different reality, and so we must bind ourselves in ways that at once punish our mind and body while simultaneously liberating our imagination to create constructs that offer viable outlets for minds that want to explode in the power to manifest an undefined new reality.

John on board near Germany

My fellow passengers have started to stir, and others are repeating the mistake I made earlier, opening their window shades. Just as quickly as one opens, it closes. We are only 90 minutes away from our encounter with a different world, and somehow, this is all quite different than my previous visits. Maybe in our post-pandemic world, our senses are being reset, and it’s not as easy to take for granted what we used to enjoy. If I’m allowed to enter the European Union, I’ll be stepping onto ground where national governments are not yet at ease about the consequences of people making selfish decisions and those moving about potentially sharing a deadly virus. What I find in Germany might be a shock compared to Phoenix, where my transition to pandemic existence was relatively gradual.

Enough writing for now. I’m ready to fling open the shade and see this side of Earth. Bring me something to eat and kick me off this plane; I need to stretch my legs and see how my mind exercises itself in this tomorrow that arrives at a peculiar time.

Next time I have to travel wearing a mask I must remind myself to have mints with me and a toothbrush in easy reach. I need a second mask with me, too, as this one just broke, and I’d like to avoid the N95 as I move through the airport and try to be understood by passport control. Speaking of entering another country, my anxiety wants to make itself known, but if the Germans decide that family helping out family in a bind is not reason enough to allow my entry, well, that’s fate and just the way it is. I’m confident that my ducks are in a row, but the people I’m about to encounter know significantly more about order than I ever will.

Okay, breakfast is done. We are awaiting a sweep for trash and I’m expecting I will lose wifi shortly. With sunshine streaming in through opened windows, my senses are telling me to reach out to Caroline, but it’s 1:00 a.m. when she puts her head down for the night. She won’t be up for about 3.5 hours, meaning, yes, she’s waking at 4:30. Why so early? To go for a walk, talk with me, and then put herself in that infernal machine called a car that she’ll have to pilot to her office.

About to land in Frankfurt Germany

Only 45 minutes left before touchdown. Time to turn my attention to putting things away and getting ready to start blogging about what lies ahead.

Frankfurt to Phoenix

Frankfurt, Germany

We went out for an early morning walk to try to combat the total lack of movement we’ll be enduring while crammed into our seats for the more than 11-hour trek back to Phoenix later today.

Frankfurt, Germany

Klaus told us of a foot and bike path that runs along the Nidda River and even volunteered to wake early with us so we could get a short 10km (6 miles) walk in before breakfast.

Frankfurt, Germany

It’s simply beautiful out here. If nothing else about our time spent in Germany this year, we learned that we’ve never invested enough in exploring the points between here and there on foot.

Frankfurt, Germany

When we were on our way back to Haus Engelhardt, we made an effort to pass Speisekammer, where I inquired about what time they opened. Seeing we had to head to the airport at 12:30, we could hardly eat here one more time if they didn’t open until 11:30 or later, but luck would have it that they open at 11:00, so it seemed settled that we’d just have to take up some seats as their first customers of the day.

Frankfurt, Germany

Handkäs mit Musik with farmers’ bread because I can never have enough of this stuff when on pilgrimage in this city on the Main River.

Caroline Wise in Frankfurt, Germany

Frankfurter grüne Sauce mit gekochten Eiern und Petersilienkartoffeln with a glass of Apfelwein is the only way to indulge the senses right up to the last minute before racing to the airport. See ya later, Frankfurt.

Iceland

There’s a small town out there near the middle of the photo at the water’s edge called Dalvik, and the little island in front of it is Hrisey. What a great day to be flying.

Greenland

This is Greenland because it’s not Antarctica, and no, it’s not the North Pole either because the ice and snow float on the sea because there’s no continent up there, remember?

Greenland

I can’t believe this incredible view we’re being offered from around 35,000 feet above sea level.

Labrador Sea

The Labrador Sea, where I cannot see a polar bear running across the ice no matter how close I look.

Wyoming

Looks like Wyoming to me; we must be close to home.

Phoenix, Arizona

And then here we are soon to touch down in this arid place in the desert we call home.

Frankfurt – Sunday

Frankfurt, Germany

There’s this horrible song titled “Back to the Start” by Michael Schulte that has been following me since I arrived in Berlin and heard it for the first time. I tried ignoring its cloyingly formulaic jingle, not wanting to gain a clue about its lyrical content, but here I am on my last full day in Frankfurt, and just as it happened on every other day here, the song wafts out of the kitchen at the Engelhardts’ and into my ear to excite the worm that lives there. At that moment, I decided this was definitely the anthem of this German summer and went to the kitchen with trusty Google in tow and asked it to identify the song I didn’t want to know. Now I know the lyrics, and I resent it even more for its intentional sucking in people in need of nostalgia that dips into feelings of a lost childhood. Be that as it may, I can no longer ignore this musical trainwreck, and so by putting it front and center, I’ll forever be able to relive those mornings in cafes and at the Engelhardts when my cringe factor was in full tilt.

While I’m here, I shouldn’t forget to remind myself of the song that now identifies our days in Croatia, where we first heard Nera performing “Centar svita.” Well, that’s our “city” song, while in the country, it would have to be the Haris Džinović anthem, “Muštuluk.

Enough of that, and onto the photo above. The Engelhardt’s are the official Guinness World Record holders of most liquid bath soaps ever collected in one place. While they now have enough soap to wash 100 people every day for 1,000 years their collection shows no signs of slowing down. Turns out that the Yves Rocher Grapefruit & Thyme Shower Gel might be my all-time favorite soap scent, and it only took me trying out a few dozen soap scents while I showered this morning to learn that.

Frankfurt, Germany

Down in the basement the Engelhardt’s are still building their collection of jams and jellies to qualify with the Guinness committee as being the most diverse on earth. So you might be able to read some of the labels I zoomed in tight for this view of a mere 2% of the current collection where you’ll find cinnamon-cherry plum, pumpkin-coconut, apple-medlar (like, what the heck is medlar in the first place?), blueberry-coriander (who thought that one up?), and others you may never believe.

Upstairs for breakfast with the most awesome German Vollkornbrötchen served up with a gaggle of jam flavors, including lilac, dandelion jelly, and a concoction direct from Klaus, who created an amazing apricot-vanilla jam. The pièce de résistance, though, had to be the mind-blowing strawberry with mint and black pepper. What the hell, America? I go into our mega grocery stores, and I’m offered 100 different brands of grape and strawberry, a couple of raspberry variations, and the god-awful creation known as Goober, which puts peanut butter and grape jelly in the same jar.

Jutta Engelhardt and Caroline Wise in Frankfurt, Germany

You know that wish of mine to move slower and how I romanticize the speed of turtles and snails? Well, Jutta moves at a speed somewhere between the two, and I have to share a mea culpa here that I, in fact, do NOT want to move at those barely visible speeds where observers can’t be certain if the person is even moving anymore. My legs start to cramp, trying not to appear to be running ahead while I maintain her cadence so we can walk along together. Caroline and I left Heddernheim relatively early so we could fetch my mother-in-law and drag her out for lunch.

Frankfurt, Germany

We took all of those trains to get to our destination, all of them.

Jutta Engelhardt and Caroline Wise in Frankfurt, Germany

I stood there waiting to frame this photo of Caroline walking with her mother, and finally, after about 45 minutes, the magic started to happen, and I had my shot. Now I’m nearing starvation, and my hallucinations are suggesting it might have been days since I last ate.

Frankfurt, Germany

Our lunch was at the Central Grill right behind me here at the corners of Münchenerstrasse and Weserstrasse in the heart of the city. On Friday night, after landing in Frankfurt, we visited this place in need of some southern European cooking, and while I loved my meal, they were out of roasted lamb, so I settled on the lamb shank. My bet was that they’d have the roasted lamb today, and I wasn’t disappointed. The funny thing was that all three of us had the roasted lamb followed by a strong Turkish coffee before taking off for dessert.

Frankfurt, Germany

Heading back from whence we came.

Frankfurt, Germany

We waited for the U5 to take us back into our old neighborhood, but that story has been written about nearly a dozen times here on the blog of JohnWise.com.

Caroline Wise in Frankfurt, Germany

This is becoming a bit of a tradition where Caroline poses with some giant plastic food items we spot along the road.

Jutta Engelhardt and Caroline Wise in Frankfurt, Germany

Our old neighborhood has been gentrified by hipsters who overtook the place. They moved in, started having babies, trendy restaurants followed them in, and now you have to be nearly rich to live here but it’s still a place of fond memories.

Engelhardt Family and Caroline Wise in Frankfurt, Germany

Klaus and Stephanie rode their bikes over here to meet us on this beautiful day so all of us could be together for at least a short while during this visit. Oh, and we’re at Eis Christina for our favorite Spaghetti Ice Cream in the world.

Engelhardt Family and Caroline Wise in Frankfurt, Germany

One more photo for the road before Caroline and I accompany Jutta back to her apartment.

Frankfurt, Germany

Inclusiveness is on full public display when even the streetlights embrace the diversity that is thriving in Frankfurt.

Frankfurt, Germany

With this being our last full day in Europe, we need to absorb as much of the city as we can so we opted to walk nearly all the way back to Heddernheim. Along the way, we even passed the house where Anne Frank spent her first years.

Frankfurt, Germany

Why we never really learned about the green belts that trace through the city when we lived here will remain one of life’s great mysteries to me.

Frankfurt, Germany

Klaus has been toiling in the kitchen to prepare this exquisite home-cooked meal. I must admit that Caroline and I are a bit embarrassed by the incredible hospitality offered us by the Engelhardt’s. We arrive, they give us a room upstairs, supply us with breakfast, turn over a key to the front door, and all of that for guests who are rarely here as we are out visiting our elderly family members or old friends for the majority of our time in Frankfurt. So I’m happy that towards the end of our vacations in Europe, we always seem to have a couple of days where we share each other’s company a bit more and close on a great note.

Frankfurt – Saturday

Caroline Wise and Stephanie Engelhardt in Frankfurt, Germany

We’ve seen this movie before. Two sisters get on the train to shop at the open-air market at Konstablerwache.

Frankfurt, Germany

Along the way, they make a detour to Hugendubel bookshop so Caroline can pick up her book of sheet music from Rammstein.

Frankfurt, Germany

Not in the mood for shopping, the forlorn husband turns to something sweet in the form of raspberries to help in dealing with the bitter reality that Frankfurt is disappearing.

Frankfurt, Germany

People go about their business oblivious to the fact that two people among them, while happy being here, must exchange this place for the one that pays their bills and makes amazing vacations possible.

Frankfurt, Germany

The protesters who begged us to stay had no impact on our decision to follow through with our original plans and leave by the 10th, regardless of how our hearts may have thought otherwise.

Caroline Wise in Frankfurt, Germany

Caroline tried to assuage the horror of facing the airport and the 11-hour flight home by buying even more Gudrun Sjödén clothes, but I can’t be sure that really did anything other than giving her more stuff to make her look cute.

Frankfurt, Germany

Maybe Papier Kraemer or the library can fight these blues?

Frankfurt, Germany

I know we’ll eat sausages because sausages can heal everything.

Caroline Wise in Frankfurt, Germany

A happy face in the sea of shoppers. By the way, I hope you notice the glitch in the Matrix as somebody behind Caroline is wearing her shirt that was bought years ago at REI, so this cannot just be a coincidence.

Frankfurt, Germany

We are obviously in the Matrix otherwise; how did we just have elderflower pancakes for the first time ever in Croatia, and here we are on our first full day back in Frankfurt, and they are being cooked right here at the market as if the Matrix coded this very moment.

Frankfurt, Germany

The orange of apricots is a happy color and is helping in this transition to America.

John Wise in Frankfurt, Germany

When all else fails, there’s always grown-ass-man-sucking-a-pacifier-wearing-green-rubber-gloves-selling-hugs-and-kisses (I opted for hugs) to make me feel better. How much better did I feel for my two Euros? It was so much better that I almost kissed him for free.

Jutta's Apartment in Frankfurt, Germany

We are back at Jutta’s apartment because Jutta loves seeing us.

Caroline Wise and Jutta Engelhardt in Frankfurt, Germany

Jutta also loves sharing a laugh with her daughter, though she half-heartedly complained that I was photographing her clutter. Reality hurts; just ask the two people who are leaving Germany in 48 hours.

Jutta's Apartment in Frankfurt, Germany

Maybe you’ve noticed this recurring theme across the breadth of this European vacation, where I tried capturing the place where I sat down to write.

Frankfurt, Germany

Greta Thunberg is one of my heroes; she should be one of yours too.

Frankfurt, Germany

Leaving Jutta’s to meet with the other Engelhardt’s with whom we have a dinner date for the “BEST” green sauce in all of Frankfurt!

Frankfurt, Germany

The Ebbelwoi-Express is a reminder to Caroline and me that we’ve never ridden the “Apple-wine Express” train that meanders through Frankfurt while the passengers get drunk on apple wine and forget where they are prior to stumbling off the train and trying to find their way home in a stupor. We’re making a date to get on the train and ride this iconic beacon of debauchery before we’re dead.

Frankfurt, Germany

Dinner at the Argentinian steak house that won this year’s “Best of Grüne Soße Festival” was great. The pairing of green sauce with steak wasn’t my idea of perfection, but it’s what we asked for. Next time, I go for the traditional presentation with boiled eggs and potatoes.

Frankfurt, Germany

I’ve whined about it before, but it bears whining about again; Frankfurt has too damn many cultural events, while Phoenix, like the desert that surrounds it, is a wasteland. I look at these walls announcing stuff going on over the next 60 days, and I want to pound my head into them, though I’d likely not hurt myself as the layers of posters are dozens thick, making for a nice soft cushioning surface to absorb my frustration, kind of like my wife.

Leaving The Balkans

Caroline Wise in Zaton Mali, Croatia

With only five hours left next to the Adriatic, we had to make the best of our brief remaining moments here. After breakfast, we continued hanging out next to the sea until lunch finally crept up on us. Squid and sardines were served up as our last meal in Croatia. A nice slow start to the day, savoring a few impressions, was the elixir we needed instead of racing around trying to capture 1,000 new memories that wouldn’t fit into our dwindling supply of time.

Zaton Mali, Croatia

We took another walk through the garden of our lodging, with stops to smell the roses along the way.

Zaton Mali, Croatia

We tried moving through with all the speed of a turtle, but they have more practice at that, and so no matter how much we slowed down, we appear to be in a race to see whatever comes next.

Zaton Mali, Croatia

One last view over this very Mediterranean-looking scene as Petar is driving up to bring us to the airport.

Dalmatian Coast in Croatia

The Dubrovnik airport is a good distance south of the city and only about 20 miles north of the farthest southern point of Croatia.

Dalmatian Coast in Croatia

For the better part of this trip, I was nearly constantly contrasting the nature of this adventure with what I perceived as more immersive journeys into places such as the Grand Canyon or Alaska because those locations feel more physically remote. On those river trips, the people we traveled with stayed the same, and the landscape only gradually changed. Here in Croatia, Bosnia, and Montenegro, the passengers remained the same, but hosts, guides, cities, and landscapes changed along with ethnicity and religion as we bounced between environments.

A part of me found these contrasts to be a disrupting factor in finding full immersion, but now that we are returning to the world we know, I started to gain insight into how the Balkans were, in many ways, like the walls of the Grand Canyon. Surrounding us was the culture, history, and language that contained us on a path through the places we traveled it is as though we crept along down the Colorado River isolated from the familiar.

Why it took me this long to recognize this cannot be answered at this moment, but maybe it had something to do with my travel companions who brought the insulation of America with us. During this journey, we are constantly adjusting our mental, social, and cultural maps in much the same ways we adjust our sense of place as we raft, kayak, or canoe a stretch of water that is changing with the environment. We convulse out of our frames of reference while simultaneously trying to dance with a dozen other travelers we know nothing about. We must try to maintain social cohesion and civility with some diverse personalities that, for a brief time, all exist outside of each other’s version of normal.

Germany

There is little anonymity in such a small group with few places to hide; maybe this helps explain the majority escaping to bed so early in the evening and seeming to sleep in so late. We are being laid bare to each other and, to a degree, made vulnerable. When I look deep within myself, I find hostility and outright disdain for others that I want to conform to my ideas of what it means to listen, observe, respect, not complain, and be in the moment instead of demonstrating superficial trivialities about shared media experiences and previous travel drivel that has no place in an environment where we are allowed to be present and not distracted by our pasts and occupied by the future.

For those who equate stillness and quiet with boredom combined with the conflict of not understanding a different language or taste in music, food, history, and religion, it seems that immersion might be perceived to be another kind of silence, and hence it too is boring. In those moments, people turn to what they know. When I’m in earshot of their boredom and dismissiveness, I feel a part of my immersion destroyed by their intolerance. I’ll be thinking long and hard into the next few days about this phenomenon of isolation and long periods of sleep as a coping mechanism in others for dealing with all of the uncertainty and unknowns of being in foreign places.

Frankfurt, Germany

Reentry hits hard once we are on the train in Frankfurt. The bustle, absurdity, and fashion cliches are all hitting us in much the same way as when we leave other river trips. Upon first witnessing people dealing with the reality we’d left behind, we tend to recoil as their routines appear loaded with superficial banalities.

This luxury found by a curiosity that is willing to take us into experiences surpassing our expectations never fails to make itself known in the surprise that it was us who just left the incredible. I’m left wondering how Alexander von Humboldt and other explorers like him might have felt after leaving the beaten path and discovering things that not only changed him but changed life for everyone on the planet. This intention of venturing out to actively seek knowledge as opposed to passive observation from the sideline remains profoundly inspirational to me.