A Bunch of Random Stuff on the Oregon Coast

View south from Cape Foulweather in Otter Creek, Oregon

Sometimes, a mystery should remain so. We kept seeing a sign directing us to a historic marker on the side of the road, but only when we were driving north, so we’d often miss the small turnoff when we were wending our way south. This morning, we took our time, determined to stop at this mystery spot. The small road turned out to be an alternative way to Cape Foulweather, but this couldn’t be it; why wouldn’t the sign say such? Well, there’s a fork on that small road, would the historic point must be on it? Nope. Swinging around, we saw the sign again, except this time, we saw that it clearly said Cape Foulweather Historic Point. How’d we miss that so many times in the past weeks? [Because just after the sign for Cape Foulweather there was another sign for “historic point” without the additional info, leading me to believe (incorrectly) that there was a second one – Caroline]

Yaquina Head Lighthouse seen from Moolack Beach overlook in Newport, Oregon

How often have we stopped at the Moolack Beach Overlook gazing south towards Yaquina Head Lighthouse in Newport, Oregon? Countless times is exactly how many. We only have two things in mind today: the first was to get breakfast at Newport Cafe for the Pacific Seafood Scramble, and the second was to visit Darlingtonia State Natural Site in Florence.

Kouign-amann (Queen Ah-Mon) from How We Roll Bakery at the Newport Farmers Market in Newport, Oregon

Breakfast was already out of the way when Caroline and I simultaneously spotted the Newport Farmers Market in full swing, and with easy parking available, we were there in a second. The first vendor we spoke with was Frances O’Halloran, owner of LoveJoy Botanicals, who sold Caroline a bottle of Strawberry Rhubarb Rose Shrub, and just before we walked away, she clambered for a bag to show us a purchase she’d made that morning, here at the market, over at How We Roll Bakery. She insisted that we JUST HAD TO go buy some Kouign-Amann (pronounced Queen Ah-Mon). This photo shows those pastries, and they are indeed spectacular. Roy and Jenn are the proprietors of this obviously popular market stand, witnessed by the long line. We were told, or was it warned, that we’d love them just as everyone else has and that maybe two wouldn’t be enough and that soon they’d be sold out. Good thing we were just coming from a big breakfast. Otherwise, I think we could have bought four for each of us and made these the first meal of our day. A laminated pastry with butter, sugar, cardamon, and a ‘hint of salt,’ this couple has perfected their technique.

Patina Thai Jewel Beetle Wing Pendant from Amy J. Pattison in Newport, Oregon

Our next purchase was from Amy Jilliane Pattison, who makes these Thai Jewel Beetle Wing pendants; Caroline also snagged a sea glass pendant.

Seal Rock State Recreation Site in Seal Rock, Oregon

Uncertain if we’d ever stopped at this particular location, Caroline asked me to pull into the Seal Rock State Recreation Site. Without a real plan, that’s where we are, on our way to the overlook.

Seal Rock State Recreation Site in Seal Rock, Oregon

This mammoth basalt formation, a sea stack called Elephant Rock, appears to have formed between 15-16 million years ago by the Columbia River lava flow. Here are some amazing scientific facts about that event that lasted millions of years. That flow released 105,633 cubic miles (170,000 cubic kilometers) of lava that flowed from eastern Oregon down to the mouth of the Columbia River, where it turned left and traveled more than 100 more miles until reaching this very area right here, Seal Rock, Oregon. To help you visualize just how much lava that was, if it was water covering the entirety of the continental United States, everywhere would be covered with almost 70 feet of water.

Seal Rock State Recreation Site in Seal Rock, Oregon

I legitimately thought I was done with tide pools; I really don’t have anything left in me to say about tide pools during this visit to coastal Oregon, other than, to my surprise, we arrived at low tide and found more mussels, barnacles, seaweed, small fish, sea stars, and anemones.

Tide Pools at Seal Rock State Recreation Site in Seal Rock, Oregon

The problem is that I’m compelled to share more photos of it all because, though I’m at a loss of words, we never tire of seeing the intertidal life that lives right next to us humans.

Tide Pools at Seal Rock State Recreation Site in Seal Rock, Oregon

I have no idea what the greenish-brownish brain-like stuff is, but I believe that the shell and pebble collection belongs to anemones that are camouflaged by this debris.

Tide Pools at Seal Rock State Recreation Site in Seal Rock, Oregon

My only excuse for another anemone photo is that these aren’t green.

Tide Pools at Seal Rock State Recreation Site in Seal Rock, Oregon

But the seaweed is green, and the geology is beautiful.

Great Blue Heron at Seal Rock State Recreation Site in Seal Rock, Oregon

This great blue heron represents a conflict of opinion between Caroline and myself. You see when I have too many photos chosen for a post, I’ll bring my wife over to help prune my overzealous enthusiasm to overshare. In this case, our choices didn’t agree, so I’m sharing her pick first, separating two heron photos by the following beautiful reflection of a fossilized giant shark fin.

Tide Pools at Seal Rock State Recreation Site in Seal Rock, Oregon

Just kidding about the fossil, but you can see the resemblance, I’m sure.

Great Blue Heron at Seal Rock State Recreation Site in Seal Rock, Oregon

And now the same heron, looking north with ruffled feathers after shaking itself following the eating of a fish.

Driftwood State Park in Seal Rock, Oregon

Still in the Seal Rock area, we couldn’t be certain if we’d ever visited the Driftwood State Park before, so we’ll visit it now, possibly not for the first time.

Driftwood State Park in Seal Rock, Oregon

We’ve been smitten by this effect of clouds of steam that are rising out of beach sands. The motion of the moisture floating up is mesmerizing and is better seen on video or, better yet, in person, but this blog is not a vlog, as all this dialogue would move my creations out of TikTok shorts into feature-length films.

Driftwood State Park in Seal Rock, Oregon

How nice it was for someone to erect this cairn so we wouldn’t lose our way off Driftwood Beach.

Vista Point on Highway 101 in Florence, Oregon

For the astute, they might notice I’m looking north, and that’s because I think the views both north and south are tremendous.

Pacific Ocean Vista Point on Highway 101 in Florence, Oregon

This is the view south from the Pacific Ocean Vista Point pullout, the direction in which we are still traveling.

Darlingtonia State Natural Site in Florence, Oregon

The carnivorous Darlingtonia lays in wait for the next over-rambunctious child to fall into its maw. Do you see those red blood vessels running up the side of it? It’s hungry for an innocent unsuspecting life. Those forked appendages under its monsterish green head act as both a bib and napkin for cleaning up after devouring the next mammal that gets too close.

Darlingtonia State Natural Site in Florence, Oregon

This is the blooming flower of the Darlingtonia that only does so in May and June, hence why it was so important to make a special trip down this way.

Darlingtonia State Natural Site in Florence, Oregon

We’ve visited this tiny patch of carnivorous plants previously. They are only found in Northern California and Southern Oregon in bog-like areas.

Berries at Darlingtonia State Natural Site in Florence, Oregon

Growing in the same area were these berry vines. I’d like to identify the variety, but Oregon is chock-a-block full of berry varietals, so I’m not going to even try. What I can tell you is that while they weren’t fully ripe yet, they were tasty.

Hemitomes congestum a.k.a. the gnome plant at Darlingtonia State Natural Site in Florence, Oregon

A woman also visiting the Darlingtonias and hanging out for a good long time while others came and went was sharing travel notes with us and asked if we’d seen these things nearby. We’d not, so she showed us where they were, and it turned out that they were a rare find. Their formal name is Hemitomes congestum, with a common name of the gnome plant. In the family of Hemitomes, it is the only member of that branch. Little is known about the gnome plant, and it’s only speculated that its lack of chlorophyll is due to a parasitic relationship with a fungus from which it gathers its nutrients.

Seal Rock State Recreation Site in Seal Rock, Oregon

The last photo of the day is from Seal Rock Beach, as seen from an overlook.  Out there in the sea on the left by the rocks surrounded by water, that’s where we were exploring tide pools and saw the Great Blue Heron. A late lunch/early dinner once again at Ona Restaurant in Yachats and a cold brew in Newport from Dutch Bros were the final activities of another busy Saturday.

Bean Fetishists

Beans

Pssst, want some beans? We’ve got all the beans you could possibly want, from big to small, purple beans, red ones, black beans, white beans, and mottled ones, we will never be satisfied until we’ve sampled ALL THE BEANS!

Our hopeless thoughts/cravings to feed the addiction were reawakened by the Good Mother Stallard beans that are currently in the crockpot. Oh my god, they are amazing! While our pantry still has a breathtaking amount of beans in it (in the order of more than 30 pounds), I had to look at buying more of the Good Mother Stallard except Rancho Gordo is sold out. Searching for another source, I was reminded that Purcell Mountain Farms has also been a reputable supplier for the kind of fix only beans are able to deliver.

Speaking of delivery, I just ordered another 10 pounds. I’ve learned by now that the uncommon heirloom beans we find on the Internet are often gone by the time we are ready to buy them so on this occasion I’m going with the impulse to grab them now. With this order, we are purchasing the following; White Aztec, Pueblo, Orca, Gigandes, European Soldier, Amethyst, Aurora, Anasazi, Black Turtle, and Borlotti beans. They range in price from $6.56 to $15.70 a pound so some are certainly not cheap but the cost attests to their rarity and makes for an exciting proposition that we are going to be trying such a rare bean.

While you wouldn’t know it reading this post, I just took a nearly two-hour break from writing to go on an heirloom-bean-buying binge. It all started with me collating a list of the types of beans I could come up with that we’ve tried. I opened a new spreadsheet and started scanning emails for bean orders over the years since my initial idea was to share a comprehensive list of the varieties we’ve tried. That idea got out of hand once I realized we’ve already tried more than 70 types. After my buying binge and once we’ve had the chance to try them all, we’ll have reached no less than 90 types of beans out of the more than 400 known varieties.

I know of about another dozen varieties from some of the companies I’ve ordered from that are on backorder but after that, it feels like finding new bean types will only grow more difficult. That’s not to say we wouldn’t eat every one of them again. I think I can speak for Caroline too, we’ve never met a bean we didn’t like and would be delighted to enjoy them a second and third time should we be so lucky.

The Foggy Price of Food

Foggy Phoenix, Arizona

Earlier this summer, I wrote a post called Gas-Lighting and how the media’s attention to the inflationary price of gas and the consumer obsession with it is a red herring. Today, I’m going after the foggy shroud created around food and the supposed inflation people are suffering from in order to feed their families. Before I even work out the details of what Caroline and I spend on our luxury diet that one might perceive to be pricey, I’m going to say that it’s actually incredibly inexpensive.

Like everyone else, when I go shopping, I have some sense that I’m spending a lot of money on groceries as I pay the bill, and then there’s all the stuff I have to buy online because things like ပင္ပိ်ဳရြက္ႏု a.k.a. Burmese Crispy Mixed Beans are not available anywhere in the entire state of Arizona. Should you ask if there’s no substitute for ပင္ပိ်ဳရြက္ႏု, I’d have to beg for your understanding that without that a Burmese preserved ginger salad is just not authentic. Nor can I begin to accept the idea of an avocado and cherry tomato salad without my favorite Terre Bormane white vinegar at $20 per 16.9-ounce bottle from Amazon.

But then I go through the exercise of breaking down how I use ingredients and what they cost per portion. Two years ago, I examined the crazy price of my homemade dehydrated granola, which requires no less than three days to make after soaking, grinding, and drying for a couple of days. When my 10 pounds of raw organic almonds (yes, they are raw, almonds generally are pasteurized) from California after paying $100, it feels like those are some expensive nuts, as who spends $100 at a time on nuts? And you can bet I do the same for the eucalyptus honey, walnuts, flax seeds, pumpkin seeds, sunflower seeds, oat groats, and rolled oats that go into my morning meal. Well, it turned out that an entire 6-pound batch costs us about $45; again, who buys $45 of cereal at once? But that aside, my granola at forty-seven cents an ounce is costing us $1.88 a day. There’s also the matter of the eighty-five cents spent on soy milk per bowl of granola.

Unless we have eggs, which is what we do on the weekend. Take the four brown eggs, three slices of Kirkland bacon, one Vidalia onion, and a package of Chinese Chongqing Fuling Zhacai Preserved Mustard, and this hardly breaks the bank, costing a modest $2.81 each or $5.62 for the two of us to enjoy a homemade hot breakfast on the weekend.

Now, keep in mind that when we are eating breakfast at home, the most we typically spend, on average, is $2.76 per day. I’ll come back to this.

Lunch obviously gets more expensive, but not by much. Leftovers play a serious role in our lunchtime routine outside of the weekend when I can make something fresh for both of us. While there’s a gamut of meals, I’ll share two sides of the equation, one quick and easy, the other a lot more involved. On the one hand, it’s convenient for me to throw in a pre-cooked Angus burger from Costco, which sells by the dozen for $20.70 or $1.73 each. On top of this, I add an entire avocado that also comes from Costco, so $1.27 for that brings my lunch to $3.00. As for the peculiar lunch, being diabetic, I have to measure my options when it comes to carbohydrates.

The other lunch falls right out of the lap of luxury; it is called kimchi sundubu-jjigae, which is a Korean stew. The soup base I make in large batches and store in the freezer; it’s comprised of ground pork, onion, green onion, garlic, Korean chili powder called gochugaru, soy sauce, salt, avocado oil, and sesame oil. The rest of the ingredients include pork jowl, Korean dried green veggie (aster scaber is our favorite), shiitake mushrooms (preferably fresh), kimchi, extra soft Korean tofu, and a drizzle of sesame oil, sometimes a raw egg too. The cost of sundubu ends up being $14.00 or $4.66 a portion, as it’s inevitable that we have leftovers that Caroline gladly takes to work.

In order to come to an average cost of lunch, we’ll have to work through some of our evening meals as they fill in for lunch on many days.

Obviously, dinner is going to be a pricey affair but then again, not. As with our other two meals of the day, there is some diversity when it comes to our final meal of the day, too. Trying on occasion to keep things healthy, we are not beyond incorporating a couple of vegetarian options each week, such as kadhai paneer, which is Indian cheese with bell pepper, Roma tomatoes, and a few fenugreek leaves, served on our brown rice/quinoa mixture. Then there’s our obsession with beans, almost always from dry beans. We are comfortable buying Peruano/mayocoba beans from a local discounter for as little as $1.85 per pound or purple ayocotes that ring in at close to $9.00 per pound. Both crockpot dishes make at least four portions; we’ll go with 4 for ease of calculation. The cheaper dish with the Peruanos, an onion, six slices of bacon, and a quart of chicken stock costs about $8.00 or $2.00 per portion. The pricier ayocotes with onion, crushed San Marzano tomatoes, 1/2 a roast Costco chicken, a 4-ounce can of green chilies, and chicken stock come in at nearly $19.00 or $4.75 per portion. Mind you, it’s more common that a crock of beans will supply us with at least four dinner portions and 1 or 2 lunch containers for Caroline to take to work.

We are certainly meat eaters, and while we try to balance our expenditures there, the fish we order online from Canada costs us between $10 and $19 a portion. I can buy pork chops from Costco that end up costing only $2.30 a chop, but we also keep a supply of Mangalitsa pork chops on hand that, while considerably thicker than Costco’s, are $16.50 each, which in turn make the prime filets that cost $13.00 per 6-ounce portion seem almost cheap. Then, for a further example of our diet, we’ll fix pasta maybe once a month (I’m diabetic, so there’s a reason our diet is light on carbs). My goto pasta starts with red lentil/quinoa fusilli, Rao’s Arrabiata sauce, a can of corn, 1.3 pounds ground beef, an onion, and a handful of capers, which adds up to about $20 for a solid four portions or $5.00 per person.

Rounding our average meal costs up for breakfast to $3 per person per day, lunch of $5, and dinner of $8.00 brings us to the extravagant gourmet eaters spending between $800 and almost $1,000 a month on food. Mind you that over 90% or more of our ingredients are not processed; they are raw ingredients, often organic. With the international ingredients and online meat and fish, we spend an inordinate amount on those items.

Just remove the pricey meat and fish options, replacing them with meat and fish from any regular grocery store, and our average dinner costs drop down to only $4.40 per person, while lunch comes in at $4.13. Now, with breakfast at $2.76, lunch, and dinner, our daily costs are only $11.27 per day per person or $676 per month.

Of course, there’s the issue of time to shop, prepare, and clean up these homemade, healthy meals, and while we have the luxury of one of us having that time and the inclination to accept that to eat well, there’s a cost that comes with that. The alternative is what? Egg and bacon burrito at a drive-thru joint for $8.00, spicy chicken combo at Chick-fil-A for $7, and a couple of pasta dishes at a nearby Italian place for $50 for the two of us? We would easily be spending between $80 and $100 a day for the two of us doing that. So, if we ate like that just twice a week, we’d spend an additional $640 minimum on top of whatever we made at home, which would still cost about $500 a month for the two of us.

The price of convenience is contributing to poor health, use of income, and family time, while the perception and constant lament about rising prices delude people into thinking they can’t afford to eat at home while the purveyors of this refrain of madness continue to profit.

The restaurant industry rakes in just under $900 billion a year, while the grocery industry earns just over $810 billion, a nearly $100 billion difference. Funny, we hear about the billionaires minted out of Walmart, but we hear nothing about the extraordinary wealth being taken from preparing junk food for Americans.

Ayocotes

Ayocote beans

Never met a bean I didn’t like and a couple of months ago when we were in Mexico we stumbled upon a colorful basket of beans we’d come to learn are called ayocotes. With just a bag of them, we were saving those for a special occasion. In the meantime, Caroline went searching for what our colorful beans were called as when we bought them, we didn’t know they were ayocotes. Having found a supplier, we bought two pounds of them and this is our first foray into discovering whatever promise they might hold. While we thought corona beans swole after soaking, these ayocotes are approaching the size of key limes. After cooking, they are damn near as big as golf balls.

Just as I opened this post extolling my love of beans, these didn’t disappoint. If I didn’t still have over 20 pounds of various beans in our pantry, I’d order up another 5 pounds of these. My FOMO for rainbow ayocotes is running strong as I try to convince myself they’ll be there when we want them again.

Christmas Beans

Christmas Lima Beans

Saturday morning I opened a 1 pound bag of Christmas Lima beans and started them soaking and by late evening they found their way into the crockpot to simmer overnight. I’ve been pretty good at making a pot of beans at least every other week this year and as is our routine, we start with dried beans. This will be our first time to eat this type of bean from my quest to track down exotic legumes.

And now it’s dinner time as we are tucking into these giant beans, these yummy, beefy beans of considerable heft. Cooked with chicken stock, an onion, six slices of bacon, a large can of chopped tomatoes, and a smidge of chile flakes, we are yet again afforded the simple luxury of a dish that anyone in America would find impossible to sit down in a restaurant to enjoy. Other than green beans or beans at a Mexican restaurant, where else can we enjoy a hearty bean dish in this country?

Thanks to the people at Rancho Gordo for making our bean dreams come true, along with the people of Peru for cultivating this variety.

Recipe for Burmese Curry Base

Red Onions

Call me the experimental chef as I attempted to prepare Burmese curry base for the first time in years. I had a rough idea about the amount of ingredients I needed to make a batch but it seems I was a bit off. You see, I started with 8 pounds of red onions, 3 bunches of cilantro, and 3/4 cup of paprika, and well, that made 3 quarts or nearly 3 liters of this essential ingredient. It is enough curry base for us to make more than 12 Burmese dishes over the coming months, not that that’s a bad thing.

There are four main dishes for which I’ll be using this: jack fruit curry, pork belly curry, oxtail curry, and mango coconut squash shrimp curry. These dishes were taught to me a dozen years ago by Elizabeth Chan at the Little Rangoon restaurant in Scottsdale, Arizona, before they closed shop. It continues to be a tragedy to this day that the people of Arizona will never know her amazing recipes and the variety of foods she brought to the dining table.

To make the curry base I’d recommend you start with maybe 3 pounds of red onions peeled (instead of 8), cut them in half, and slice them into about 6 large slices. Use only 1 bunch of roughly chopped cilantro and about 1/3 cup of paprika. Cook these ingredients over medium heat for about 90 minutes in 1/2 cup of oil; I prefer corn oil but use what you want. After everything has softened and quite liquidy, either use a wand and puree this mixture or place it in a blender to puree it. You can now freeze it in one-cup portions; I use Ziploc freezer bags.