Clay Myers Natural Area

Disclaimer: This post is one of those that ended up being written years after the experience was had. While there was a paragraph or two posted way back then with a single photo, there were no other notes taken so most of what is shared here must be extracted from the images and what memories they may have lent us.

Another beautiful day on the Oregon Coast. Not that this implies a sunny warm day – remember this is Oregon – but nonetheless, it was a beautiful day.

We watched the sunrise from an overlook at the Nestucca Bay National Wildlife Refuge that offered a mighty view of the ocean to the west and the sun peeking through clouds and over the mountains to the east.

Geese in the fields below us began their chorus of honking before lifting off in small groups on their quest for breakfast.

Pacific City Beach and Cape Kiwanda State Natural Area are out there in the early morning sun.

Clay Myers State Natural Area at Whalen Island, Oregon

The Nestucca Bay National Wildlife Refuge viewing platform is top-notch,

Clay Myers State Natural Area at Whalen Island, Oregon

Following the chilly sunrise, we took a short drive to the Clay Myers State Natural Area at Whalen Island for the Island Loop Trail hike.

Clay Myers State Natural Area at Whalen Island, Oregon

This short 1.4 mile (2.25km) trail leads us past a wetlands overlook, through a coastal forest, to the estuary overlook and beachside.

Clay Myers State Natural Area at Whalen Island, Oregon

As I’ve said, it is years later as I write a lot of this, in this case, it’s October 2022 and just a month before we will find ourselves in Oregon again. Looking at these images I can’t help but head over to Alltrails to search for some hikes we’ve never taken over the many excursions along the coast. So, instead of writing I’m dreaming, which is kind of like being in Oregon anyway.

Wild mushrooms trail side at Clay Myers State Natural Area at Whalen Island, Oregon

Along the path, we spied hundreds of wild mushrooms and various sorts of fungi including the most intriguing one, a red-tipped black and grey fungus. Sadly, it was quite difficult to photograph hence the mushroom picture offered above in its stead.

Wild mushrooms trail side at Clay Myers State Natural Area at Whalen Island, Oregon

We’ve likely seen all of these mushrooms before, but that doesn’t stop us from finding them intriguing every time we encounter them.

Wild mushrooms trail side at Clay Myers State Natural Area at Whalen Island, Oregon

Looks like elephant skin to me.

Siletz Bay on a foggy day is still better than no Siletz Bay.

And the moments of stormy seas never fail to bring raw excitement as the ocean attacks the shore. Driving South we decided that Highway 101 was too busy for us and gave the Otter Crest Loop Road a try. There were some stretches where we felt we were the only people outside. Probably because the wind and rain were picking up.

Hey Caroline, “You sure you want to be out in that blustery rain and risk having our umbrella torn to shreds?”

Contrary to what might be seen at first blush, this is a beautiful shot of vibrantly green forest that without the presence of such thick fog, would have been framed by deep blue sky. As it is, it really is just a bunch of gray with hints of trees.

The trail alludes to the places we cannot go while something out in the mystery of that forbidden place wants to draw us in.

Most of the rest of the day was whittled away exploring the Yaquina Head Outstanding Natural Area and Lighthouse. Unfortunately, the facilities were about to close so we could not enter the visitor center and you need to be on a tour to enter the lighthouse.

Nah, that doesn’t look ominous to me. How could those dark heavy clouds be anything more than some thick fog?

A couple of harbor seals were as eager to check us out as we were them. I can’t get over how super black their eyes looked in this light.

This is our yurt kitchen here at South Beach State Park in Newport. I don’t think I pointed it out earlier, but this trip has been kind of special regarding our meals because I made a serious effort to cook for Caroline every night we’ve been out here. Being vegetarian on the Oregon Coast doesn’t offer her a lot of choices, but my cooking delivers just that much more luxury to her. I don’t mean to brag but she loved it and I think it added to the overall romance we’re sharing out here.

A Favorite

Stamen

I have taken thousands of photos out on Tonopah Rob’s farm over the past year and have been delighted to gaze upon so much beauty day after day. The desert offers many a shade of brown and tan but only rarely do vibrant colors emerge from our near barren landscape. Out on the farm I have watched purple and orange cauliflower mature. Carrots are pulled from the earth in red, yellow, purple, and orange hues. Blue and red potatoes hide below the surface as do the red, white, and golden beets. Lettuce, too, grows in a rainbow of colors out here. The flowers intermingle amongst the plots as invitations to pollinating insects to come work their magic while other flowers act as bug barriers. The sunflowers, bright yellow and orange with metallic blue center, tower overhead while offering shade to the ground-hugging veggies below.

Working on the farm can be like a small vacation where the conformity and oppression of the city melts away and nature blooms for me to stand in awe of her majesty.

Tree Tunnels & Blueberries

Copper Harbor, Michigan

“Seek and ye shall find” paves the way to a moment of “lo and behold,” and a vision of beauty enshrouds us. I can’t say that we intentionally focus on finding the gorgeous corners of our world, but then again, we really don’t make much effort at all to focus on cities where the toil of work makes monsters of people who forget or never knew the calming effect of being in places where tranquility is a drug for those who can locate a frequency aligned to its prescription.

Copper Harbor, Michigan

Dawn over serenity is a destination afforded only to the few whose constitution demands a refreshing cleansing of the grime that accumulates during the drudgery of trading time for money, though there is no greater truth in our modern world that money equates to being able to afford the discovery that takes one places, often deep within.

Leaving Copper Harbor, Michigan

The roads to external and internal beauty find their starts at different junctions in our lives. One path begins with a word, the next with a book. Maybe a sunrise alights the spark where the journey into early light takes hold of the eye and imagination, suggesting that there is something else at work aside from the simple repetition of a planet circling a nearby star. Here on the Upper Peninsula, the literal beginning of a path slices down an entire country, and while interesting as a whole, we’ll experience but the tiniest of fractions during our journey of it. Like a great book where we are limited to only reading the first chapter, we’ll be denied what the rest of the story delivers.

Driving south on US-41 on the Upper Peninsula of Michigan

Our drive this morning is effectively navigating a tree tunnel as it wends its way south out of Copper Harbor; within moments, we gasp at the profundity of autumnal beauty. Surely, we should have anticipated seeing this rainbow of color, but the dense layers of foliage juxtaposed against the woods and asphalt brought us beyond even our wildest dreams.

Driving south on US-41 on the Upper Peninsula of Michigan

It is as though the strings of the orchestra are focused on creating a symbiosis between the melancholic and the ecstatic as we are simultaneously elated and emotionally fragile that, for some incomprehensible reason, this is all ours to experience. The musicians of the forest perform for us and us alone, where are the others?

Driving south on US-41 on the Upper Peninsula of Michigan

Notes from a felted piano touch the delicate soft places of emotion that seem to guide the rustling of leaves saturated in the hues of autumn while the heartstrings of John and Caroline synchronize with the speed of the landscape pulsing in attraction to pull us in.

Driving south on US-41 on the Upper Peninsula of Michigan

The visual magnificence of this play of light has touches of brilliance and surprise that, while they might be a composite of different sights gathered on other days, stand unique in their performance that will only be offered at these exact moments where we were present to accept the song and theater of nature.

Driving south on US-41 on the Upper Peninsula of Michigan

Maybe all of this should have remained in the furtive clutch of hidden memories as it is an absurdity to consider that these feeble words will weave together the threads of a narrative that can share how the two of us bring images of sea and sky, the sounds of elation and noise, words of enlightenment and imagination, and the joys of love and anguish to define the overflowing romantic sense of being in such a place that largely defies explanation.

Driving south on US-41 on the Upper Peninsula of Michigan

Later we came to learn of our extraordinary good fortune of being at the right place at the right time as we were told that we were witnessing a record year for leaf peepers during peak color change. And as beautiful as it truly was, later in the day, someone asked if we had driven the Brockway Mountain road that allegedly puts this tree tunnel to shame; we had not. Upon leaving Copper Harbor, we had seen the turnoff but knew not where it led or what it might behold. No matter, as we are so entranced with the natural beauty of the Upper Peninsula that we are sure to return many times to these moments.

Gay Lac La Belle Road Eastern Upper Peninsula, Michigan

Then, after the infinity spent in the delirium of total saturation, we are again at what appears to be the sea, though, in fact, it is merely a lake but of such depth that it too has a song that resonates within us as so many other places of great beauty.

Wild blueberries found off Gay Lac La Belle Road Eastern Upper Peninsula, Michigan

On our way to Gay, Michigan, we passed a lady rummaging on the roadside. My unabashed curiosity demanded I stop the car, followed by a quick reverse while lowering the window, and an inquiry as to what she was looking for.

Wild blueberries found off Gay Lac La Belle Road Eastern Upper Peninsula, Michigan

Cranberries were what the lady was hunting and she kindly offered to show us where to look. With Caroline kneeling down next to our amateur botanist, I spotted what looked like blueberries and asked what they were. After mentioning that the local cranberries are a sour type, requiring cooking and a good dose of sweetener, she tells us that the little blueberries are yummy wild blueberries and perfectly edible.

Caroline Wise picking Wild blueberries off Gay Lac La Belle Road Eastern Upper Peninsula, Michigan

We spent the next hour collecting a bag full of these wild treats. Over the next three days, we rationed this peninsular treasure, enjoying its near-winter sweetness while relishing our great fortune yet again and basking in the memory of picking berries next to Lake Superior.

Gay Lac La Belle Road Eastern Upper Peninsula, Michigan

We could have gone in any number of directions up in the Copper Harbor area, but compromises are always required when exploring new lands and new terrains of experience and so we go forward to wherever that forward might take us. Had we remained in the autumnal heavens of tree tunnels, we’d have never discovered the things we hadn’t imagined were out here.

Gay Lac La Belle Road Eastern Upper Peninsula, Michigan

The atmosphere weighs heavily upon the waters of Earth as gravity works to contain that liquid domain within boundaries ordained by the nature of our planet. We stride over these surfaces with the intention of finding something of meaning that remains mysterious and elusive, but that doesn’t squash the curiosity of these two people who seem to intuitively understand that something magical is right in front of our senses. Is it the white froth of the waves, that large mossy rock there on the shore, or the trunk of a tree gripping its tiny corner on land above the depths? It must certainly be everything and nothing, as even in the dark sky, our minds are looking for patterns that might offer answers to the unknowns.

Gay Lac La Belle Road Eastern Upper Peninsula, Michigan

Oh my…it’s a scene mimicking our very lives. At the edge of the shifting sands of time, we hold fast in a tenuous grip of our place within it, but at any moment, we might succumb to the battering energy of life that laps at our fragile existence

Caroline Wise and John Wise at the Gay Bar in Gay, Michigan

But everything changes once we hit the Gay Bar. Seriousness and discovery give way to debauchery and humor. We have arrived in Gay, Michigan, population unknown, though obviously fluctuating due to those bent on visiting a gay bar at least once in their lives. Souvenirs are, as you’d expect, Gay-themed and bawdy. Lunch was perfect after ordering a footlong hotdog, allowing visitors to brag about having had 12 inches in the Gay Bar.

Fish Bail vending machine in Gay, Michigan

Beyond my juvenile prurient humor, it was this bait vending machine outside the Gay Bar that really attracted Caroline’s attention. Hopefully, she can add just why it was so interesting to her.

[I just couldn’t believe there would be such a thing as a live bait vending machine. Food, drink, underwear, we’ve all seen (or heard of) those machines, but live bait? Too bad we didn’t check the price. In hindsight, we could have bought some and fed fish somewhere – Caroline]

Deer on the Upper Peninsula, Michigan

Somebody forgot their lawn ornament next to the road.

Leef peeping on the Upper Peninsula, Michigan

I’m speechless about seeing even more of these colors, or maybe I have just run out of words that will convey anything else.

Leef peeping on the Upper Peninsula, Michigan

Yep, red, yellow, orange leaves, and me in awe; nothing else exists right now.

Quincy Mill ruin near Mason, Michigan on the Upper Peninsula

Exploring the Quincy Stamping Mill ruin near Mason, Michigan, and also paid visits to the Quincy Smelting Works and Quincy Mine Museum further down the road. But hey, that sounds interesting; where are the photos? The gargantuan chore of assembling all these materials 16 years after we took this journey (it’s February 18, 2022, as I write this) is already an undertaking of a scale I don’t want to make larger. When I’m done with the nine days we were here in America’s mid-west, I’ll have pushed the original brief single photo posts, each with about 180 words of text to something containing between 25 – 35 photos and about 1,000 words each.

Random sign on the Upper Peninsula of Michigan

Fulfilling Caroline’s dreams and ensuring I don’t have regrets, we stopped at a yarn store somewhere after the mining museum, but where that was exactly and what its name might have been are lost in time. Regarding these roadside all-American signs extolling the virtues, typically religious, of the community or of the kind of morals people should live by, Caroline has been enchanted with them for years since first laying eyes on them.

Mt. Shasta Restaurant in Michigamme, Michigan

While we stopped for dinner, our hopes were dashed as the kitchen had already closed, but the OPEN sign hadn’t been turned off yet. As luck would have it, our stop wasn’t for naught as this location on the side of the road across from Lake Michigamme was full of history that was pointed out by the person informing us we wouldn’t be eating walleye here tonight. The Mt. Shasta restaurant played a role in the 1959 Oscar-nominated film Anatomy of a Murder starring Jimmy Stewart, Lee Remick, and Eve Arden.

Caroline Wise at Jasper Ridge Brewery in Ishpeming, Michigan

Still a half-hour from Marquette, where we’d stay the night and obviously still hungry, we found the Jasper Ridge Brewery in Ishpeming was open; time to eat, as who could know if anything was open further up the road.

The Upper Peninsula

Bonshell Cafe in Hurley, Wisconsin

Writing a decade after the events that occurred over these fall days, I’m offered the opportunity not to write with certainty about those things that passed but of impressions that might have influenced me combined with the person I am now. I confront the images that still linger in the back of my mind that I’m moving to these pages with the hope I can interpret them as though I were seeing them for the first time while simultaneously wanting to believe they are still fresh in my memory.

Caroline Wise and John Wise in Ironwood, Michigan

I forgot to share in yesterday’s post that we arrive on the Upper Peninsula, a.k.a. the U.P., as it is known to those living up here. Last night, as we passed through Hurley, Wisconsin, before entering Ironwood just across the border, we spotted the Bonshell Cafe that opens at 5:30 in the morning; that sounded good to us. It turned out to be a favorite stop for hunters looking for pie and ice cream with a beer at the break of dawn; whatever happened to bacon, eggs, and coffee? We learned that even more popular than pie a la mode is the traditional U.P. pasty (pronounced pass-tea). We had a breakfast pasty, but try as I might, I wasn’t able to convince Caroline to have a pre-lunch beer, which, according to legend, would have qualified her as a real Yooper.

Caroline Wise standing under Hiawatha, World's Largest Indian Statue in Ironwood, Michigan

Right here in Ironwood on Burma Avenue stands Hiawatha, at 52 feet, the world’s largest Indian statue. Look at Caroline between his feet for scale.

On the way to Potawatomi and Gorge Waterfalls in Ironwood, Michigan

We are on the Black River National Forest Scenic Byway, looking for the sights a scenic byway can deliver: more of the colors of fall and some waterfalls that are showing up on the map.

On the way to Potawatomi and Gorge Waterfalls in Ironwood, Michigan

These colors are so incredibly enchanting while dramatically altering the appearance of the landscape. Researching the paths we took on this long-forgotten journey deep into the U.P., Caroline was tracing potential routes on Google Maps, and when the trees are all green, the roads are missing some essential character we were able to experience on our introduction to this corner of America.

Potawatomi and Gorge Waterfalls in Ironwood, Michigan

You are looking at the relatively calm waters of the Black River and specifically the Potawatomi Falls. I probably took about 30 photos between here and the foot of the falls, and this was the best of the lot; maybe my photography game was off, or I was too distracted by my hunt for orange and red leaves.

Potawatomi and Gorge Waterfalls in Ironwood, Michigan

It always seems like a good idea to photograph the trails we are walking on because they play a significant role in how our journeys to beautiful places come about, but then, compared to the big iconic ultimate destination, they can pale in what they lend to things. All the same, if we were able to be magically transported to this exact spot some Arizona summer day when we’re withering under the brutal sun attempting to kill us, we’d gladly land right here again.

Potawatomi and Gorge Waterfalls in Ironwood, Michigan

Crying elves scampering over the landscape left proof of their existence, and while I don’t typically taste another creature’s body fluids, I couldn’t help but taste these tears of the elves. Contrary to my expectation they’d be salty, they tasted sweet and earthy.

Caroline Wise on trail at the Potawatomi and Gorge Waterfalls in Ironwood, Michigan

This woman here is sweet and earthy, too. I hope you like how I set that up 🙂

Potawatomi and Gorge Waterfalls in Ironwood, Michigan

Hmm, is this the Gorge part of the Potawatomi and Gorge Waterfalls here in the Ironwood area?

Potawatomi and Gorge Waterfalls in Ironwood, Michigan

We are following a trail for another look at the falls.

Potawatomi and Gorge Waterfalls in Ironwood, Michigan

And here’s that view of those fairytale-looking falls and the primary attractors of those elves I mentioned above; such is the magic found in enchanted forests.

Potawatomi and Gorge Waterfalls in Ironwood, Michigan

Like I said, enchanting.

Apples on the Black River National Forest Scenic Byway, Michigan

Roadside fruit begging to be pilfered had its wishes granted and while memory is a funny thing often full of holes, I’ll venture that we thought they were nothing less than stellar.

Deer on the Black River National Forest Scenic Byway, Michigan

Good thing we were only out here hunting with our eyes and the camera as this smallish deer would have been easily picked off, not that we ever hunt with weapons or even eat venison much.

Randall Bakery in Wakefield, Michigan

Since 1944, Randall Bakery has been serving up pasties on the Upper Peninsula right here in Wakefield.

Pastie from Randall Bakery in Wakefield, Michigan

Not exactly a culinary masterpiece (not that it’s supposed to be), it’s a utility food easily packed away in a bag for a day of fishing or a night of hunting; such is the character of this portable Cornish Pasty loaded with meat and potato. Eating in a location where this is a common staple makes it special.

Porcupine Mountain Wilderness, Michigan

Heading north on Country Road 519 with a destination in mind.

Porcupine Mountain Wilderness, Michigan

Here we are in the Porcupine Mountain Wilderness out looking for waterfalls.

Porcupine Mountain Wilderness, Michigan

If fast-moving tannin-stained water, tinted by rotting forest debris, sounds interesting to you, the waterways around the Great Lakes seem to be the perfect location for finding just that.

Porcupine Mountain Wilderness, Michigan

While visually stunning, I’d not be so bold to be quick in the tasting of amber-colored water.

Porcupine Mountain Wilderness, Michigan

This is not overkill to include so many photos of rushing water or, as you are about to see below, more of the colorful leaves of fall; it is the pleasure of indulgence reminding the two of us who experienced such sights that the Gods of Good Fortune were smiling at us this day and only us as nobody else on earth saw things quite the way we did, where we did, and when we did.

Porcupine Mountain Wilderness, Michigan

This is the point in the narrative, after bringing some 900 words to bear that I’d like to gently put down the keyboard and start the soundtrack of ambient sounds that would guide you through the rest of the post.

Porcupine Mountain Wilderness, Michigan

Just kick back and listen to the quiet sounds of the rustling leaves and faint songs of birds in the distance.

Porcupine Mountain Wilderness, Michigan

This exercise becomes a meditation where nature lulls us into a kind of hypnosis, and we start vibing in the realm of chill until we reach a crescendo of wow.

Lake of the Clouds in the Porcupine Mountain Wilderness, Michigan

The wow we saw with our eyes will never be conveyed in a photo, but the impact on our imaginations was solidly cemented here on this knob overlooking Lake of the Clouds.

Porcupine Mountain Wilderness, Michigan

If you told me that Caravaggio had set this up as inspiration for a tiny corner in one of his paintings, I wouldn’t have any reason to doubt you.

Off Highway 26 south of Houghton, Michigan

More leaves of fall added to this sequence with other leaves of fall make for a cascade of colors in patterns I can’t be certain I’ll ever experience again during my lifetime, and so I must embrace as many as I can.

Bald Eagle off Highway 26 south of Houghton, Michigan

With the abundance of riverways and lakes dotting the landscape, the bald eagle has the luxury as a permanent resident to take up a perch that suits it, knowing food is always around the corner.

Caroline Wise north of Hancock, Michigan

Speaking of food around the corner, after passing through Hancock, we came upon this food stand owned and operated by the 10-year-old girl seen taking Caroline’s order. Just kidding, the kid was working free as an indentured servant to pay off her parent’s debts. Illegal child labor on the Upper Peninsula is a serious concern…in the minds of idiots, meaning everything I wrote, other than stopping here for some fish, was a lie.

Highway 41 Upper Peninsula, Michigan

Oh my god, more leaves.

Caroline Wise and John Wise in Phoenix, Michigan

Hey Dorothy, are we back in Kansas, er, um, I mean Arizona??? “John, you dolt, my name is Caroline, and this is Phoenix, Michigan!”

Copper Harbor, Michigan

Yay, if the sun is low in the sky, our day is coming to a close, and the need to continue blathering on about things will end soon.

Copper Harbor, Michigan

We are in Marquette on Lake Superior for the night. Of the details that might have been had, they are long gone aside from our general location. So, with that, I conclude this blog post allowing me to pursue writing about the 4th day of this journey into distant memories.

Breathing Space

Coast of Santa Barbara, California

After nearly three weeks in Santa Barbara, California, I took time this morning to visit the ocean.

Coast of Santa Barbara, California

Here I am, at times barely a half-mile from the beach, but helping an elderly relative with a broken hip and an 82-year-old aunt who still works but doesn’t drive leaves precious little time for me.

Coast of Santa Barbara, California

Today, after dropping my aunt off at work and prior to visiting the rehabilitation center, I took a meandering cliffside drive near the ocean. Upon finding a remote, nearly hidden trail that looked to go to the beach, I found parking and began to capture an hour and a half for myself.

Coast of Santa Barbara, California

A steep moss-covered stairway descended the cliff to a lonely beach without a soul, probably because it was just after sunrise and there was a brisk chill in the air.

Coast of Santa Barbara, California

The tide was in along this rocky stretch of southerly facing coast.

Coast of Santa Barbara, California

I walked eastwards into the rising sun, watching it glisten off the surf.

Coast of Santa Barbara, California

Now, if only Caroline were here holding my hand.

Okra Flower

The flower of the okra plant

I was briefly out on the farm this morning but lack of sleep and a holdover headache from the night before had me leaving early. Prior to making the long drive back to Phoenix, I was talking with Rob and Jerry who were digging up sweet potatoes next to the okra when I realized that okra flowers. While not a big deal, it is something I hadn’t known. It’s nice to be easily entertained by nature.