Auntie and Grandpa Going to Florida – Day 15

White Sands National Monument in New Mexico

The contrasts that exist between light and dark, sky and earth, old and young, are part of the conditions that allow a balance between the systems of life. We exist in a symbiotic universe in which things at this moment have illuminated a consciousness in our state of awareness that sees what only exists in the fractions of reality where observations take place at random intervals. You will never see what I witnessed here. It is exclusively mine and maybe the rarest of images ever seen here, though I cannot know that for certain as I’ve not been able to peer upon any of the other trillions of moments that have already passed. Over the course of the next trillion seconds or 31,710 years, the landscape and sky that have painted this scene will have changed countless times but never will my view ever be duplicated.

White Sands National Monument in New Mexico

Your lifetime is about 2,500,000,000 seconds long. Think about this: 2.5 billion seconds. 2.5 billion grains of sand (about 78 gallons worth) would fit in a box only about 2′ x 2′ x 2′ in size. Go to your grocery store and look at 78 gallons of milk, or think about how many gallons of gasoline you use a month in your car, and you’ll see that 78 gallons aren’t all that much. The box your 78 gallons of sand would fit in goes up midway on your thigh; now, square that, and you’ll arrive at the volume of sand grains that represent the seconds you might live. Now let’s make this worse: as measured in minutes, you have less than a gallon and a half of sand grains if each grain were to represent one minute. Measure your time in sand grains per day, and you have less than a teaspoon of time to work with. Do you dare waste even a fraction of that?

Roadside in New Mexico 2005

Everything we do and everything we see should have value. We have the option of giving meaning to our experiences, or we can accept what comes at us mindlessly without analysis, context, or desire. My experience suggests that far too many people simply are busy hoping to escape introspection, critical thinking demands that tax their minds, and the discomfort that comes with being exposed to those things that might budge them out of a stupor. How, without the embrace of the precious nature of life and our limited opportunity to comprehend even a snowflake’s worth of meaning, can we call ourselves human? Well, I’m arrogant enough to claim that many who would like to assume they are a valid representation of humankind are really not all that much different from a shingle of old wood rotting as the elements wear it down and accumulate snow and dust with the passage of time.

Eleanor Burke and Herbert Kurchoff at Steins Mercantile in New Mexico 2005

These are the faces of people becoming rich by giving their time and money to finding the little treasures found along the road of life.

Roadside in New Mexico 2005

The foul weather came and went. Life will come and go just as the mountains will be blown to sand, and clouds will form and evaporate. You have choices in life of what to do regardless of your financial situation because real wealth is measured in how you use your treasure of time. Each grain of sand you have been allocated is the true intrinsic wealth that can be used for yourself, or you can throw it all away so I might have more to admire while I’m out wandering the dusty trails where so much sand is simply driven over without a thought of what sacrifices were made for it to be here for my convenience.

Arizona State Sign

It takes practice to find the wisdom of knowing what to cherish, but it will never be found if one doesn’t venture out in whatever capacity one is able to. The road to amazement doesn’t require us to drive a thousand miles across a continent, but it does require us to open our eyes to the responsibility of exploring our minds and sharing with others the profundity that new experiences are able to bring us.

Auntie and Grandpa Going to Florida – Day 14

Roadside in Texas 2005

Everything is aging, and it’s all getting old. Nothing is new, and even when it is, it’s still getting older. There was a day when things were new and could stay new longer, but we killed that by always having to flaunt the next best new thing. With electronic media, nothing has been able to survive the onslaught, and it will destroy everything. Who cares about some city hall in a random town in Texas when there’s a new high-rise in New York City? Who cares about New York City when Dubai builds the tallest skyscraper on Earth? Who cares about a glass and steel building when Kim Kardashian’s ass is the most celebrated object in our galaxy?

[If you recognize that this blog entry is dated 2005, be aware that it wasn’t until the end of 2019 that I got around to writing the text for Days 13, 14, and 15 of this trip]

Roadside in Texas 2005

Out, where there’s nearly nothing, there is everything. Potential lives in the void where we are hard-pressed to find the value of things we can easily consume. By filling the gaps where there was nothing, a building where there used to be trees, damming our rivers, and fouling the sky, we erase the physical world. In the space between frequencies unseen, we shovel porn, shopping, and soap operas into the bandwidth while celebrating our ingenuity. After doing our best to wreck tranquility, we are now hellbent on wrecking civility and any social aspects of our cities by bringing fear of the other into the space we had once enjoyed as safe. It is as though we are afraid of that which is empty, as maybe it could be a reflection of who we are.

Roadside in Texas 2005

Just imagine driving down this Farm-to-Market road 60 years ago in a car with out-of-state plates and the person pumping your gas would likely have picked your brain about where you’re from and asked what you were doing out this way. Today there’s a good chance there’s a meth-addicted homeless person squatting in the place watching “Two Girls One Cup” on their smartphone and could give a shit about someone outside taking photos.

Roadside in Texas 2005

Apparently, this gas station was already closed about 15 to 20 years ago by the time I peered inside. Looking at what I captured here I’m curious about the strange time warp where I’m seeing printed maps on a cigarette machine that sells a pack of smokes for $2.00. Cigarettes are currently $6 – $8 a pack, depending on where you are in America, and I can honestly say that I don’t know if any gas station in the United States still sells printed road maps.

Roadside in Texas 2005

There’s no tombstone marking what this dead business once was. No date of birth, no internet entry about Eureka something or other in rural Texas municipality down the road from the defunct filling station. This may as well be any of us. At one time, it was alive and vibrant, serving a purpose and now it’s shuttered, quiet, without function. It is anonymous and nearly forgotten. Should I ever be so lucky to stumble upon this road again, the building will likely have been broken into, its roof missing, and maybe even its walls. It, too, will disappear with nobody caring that it ever was someone else’s dream come true. This is the sad nature of our lives.

Roadside in Texas 2005

I don’t mean to be pessimistic; it’s just reality writ large in my eyes. Do you see that point way out there? That’s death waiting for you. At the end of your road, it’s but a speck that you can go a lifetime without ever catching a glimpse of. And when it’s approaching, it could deceive you, looking like a mirage over the highway on a summer day where you can’t believe that the apparition with a scythe has risen up out of nothing to claim your existence, but that’s what is happening. Didn’t I say I don’t want to be pessimistic? This isn’t about death waiting to capture us within its clutch; this is about us smiling all the way there. It’s about living with the knowledge that you are running out of time and wasting one more second of it once you’ve begun to understand the fragility of it all and that doing nothing about it, well, that may as well be death itself.

Roadside in Texas 2005

In your 90’s your teeth are probably no longer pearly white. You have difficulties finding warmth and even more trouble moving your bowels. Concentration left you long ago. You’ve outlived everyone you grew up with, and you know you must be one of the next to go. But still, you wave a friendly hello, offer a smile, and are happy to have the map in front of you so you can read the names of the places you’ve been and wonder about the places that are still ahead of you. Living requires optimism with dreams of discovering the unknown while entertaining hopes of being enchanted. What might be considered simple and unadorned is a whole lot better than being locked in the darkness of a mind that is no longer part of the living.

Roadside in Texas 2005

Do horses dream of electric sheep? Blink, and maybe the ungulates were never more than part of the stage set that was only part of your reality. Once you are gone, you’ll never know if the horses ever were or if they continued after your existence came to an end. Of course, you can take it for granted that they are out there waiting by the fence and posing for people such as myself to snap a photo of them, proving to you that it’s obvious that horses are alive and well out there somewhere. But have you ever had a horse smell your face and exhale with those giant horse lungs, emptying warm, equine-scented air that wraps around your head in a kind of horse hug? What are you waiting for? While you wait for life to arrive, we’ll be out there living your share.

Roadside in Texas 2005

Life beyond your door, be it the door of your home or the doors of your perception, must be opened, and you must find yourself on the other side. Do not languish behind either. The paint will chip away; the wallpaper will turn brittle and crack, leaving you in a decrepit shell; your mind is no different. How will you redecorate the home of your mind? Do you really believe that neglect and weathering won’t have a negative impact on your mind, even though you know full well that this is exactly what will happen to the house you live in? How many people make the investment to paint the walls, lay new carpet, repair the roof, buy new furniture, upgrade a TV, and yet don’t read books, travel more than 50 miles away from home, or bring on new hobbies doing things they have no previous skills with?

Roadside in Texas 2005

Somebody sat here in what at one time might have been the lap of luxury. Their 21-inch state-of-the-art TV from 1966 would receive two or three channels even if they were snowy due to bad reception of the aerial out on the roof, but that didn’t matter as they were witnessing a black-and-white reality that one day would be their own. Instead, they likely just grew old and never moved from the Barcalounger, where they had planted their behinds. Around them, the world and their mind decayed, but that was okay because nirvana in the afterlife was promised to them by those who traded dollars for salvation. The only salvation of mind and soul, from my perspective, is found in feeding the imagination with travel, conversation, books, music, and experiences that challenge us out of the funk of isolation.

Roadside in Texas 2005

Don’t waste your time stockpiling your dreams, ambitions, hopes, aspirations, and best of intentions. The silo of what you might like to accomplish in your lifetime is useless if you store it all away. These things cannot bring you value if they are not within your grasp; they must be worked and reworked as though you were kneading bread.

Roadside in Texas 2005

This is your life and a nearly empty horizon. The soil is fertile and ready for planting. Rain will arrive and germinate the seeds, but you must plant things. What if I told you that the building on the far left, that tiny splotch of pixels just peaking over the red soil way over there in the background, was your life so far? That’s how I see my life at 56 years old as I race to learn, do, explore, postulate, create, break, find, love, destroy, and rebuild all that dares obscure my perfect view of the clouds.

Roadside in Texas 2005

You finally decide that getting along and moving down the road might be the thing to do, and all of a sudden, you find yourself in the sprawling metropolis of Tokio. Where are the bright lights and sushi shops might be your first thought? Baby steps, because you are not in Japan yet, this is Tokio, Texas. The effort to go far requires momentum.

Roadside in Texas 2005

Fuel can be pumped out of the earth to propel our cars and planes, but the fuel of the mind is knowledge. Without constant energy found in evolving brains, it all comes to a halt. Like this pumpjack operating on electricity to siphon crude oil from below, there is an order of things that create the system. People create the electricity that is delivered across the arid landscape to this location. The pumpjack pulls oil up from deep below and feeds it into a pipeline in order to collect the crude in a central location. From a tank, it will be transferred to a refinery, where it will be distilled into gasoline and various byproducts. From this point, it can be used to take your car from Crawford to Tokio or from Houston to Tokyo.

Knowledge is deep below the surface of things. Reading and exploring are the pumpjacks that siphon the crude thoughts out of history and into our consciousness. This is our refinery, where we make valuable byproducts. With insight and invention, we are ready to venture out to explore the points between what we are starting to understand and the still incomprehensible.

Roadside in Texas 2005

Had only our obsession with entertainment to the exclusion of personal responsibility come with this kind of warning; maybe we would have turned off the football game, 24-hour news, videogame, or other indulgences that were risking a better future. Instead, we opted for the poison of mediocrity by taking the road that was easy. How is it we were so ready to accept the marketing that convinced the majority that convenience and lack of effort were ever going to bring to us what every generation before us toiled to reach?

Roadside in New Mexico 2005

Oh no! We’ve reached another state, but the weather is turning gray. I thought the premise was that if we ventured out beyond our borders, the gilded path would deliver us to perfection. There are no guarantees that what we put into the system is going to deliver on our expectations. The best we can do is manage our expectations with mantras that work to affirm that whatever the results of our efforts are, doing something far exceeds that of doing nothing.

Roadside in New Mexico 2005

Are we home yet? Who broke out the windows of our house? And why is the garage toppled? Oh, this is not our home; this is nobody’s home. I’m done looking for more metonymy as after more than 1,900 words put down in this entry where I thought I’d have trouble finding 100; I’m reaching the end of wanting to go further.

Roadside in New Mexico 2005

Right about now, I could go for an alien abduction that would pull me into the spacecraft for a good anal probe because, as someone who’s never been rectally examined by an alien species, this would definitely qualify as a new experience. How could I know beforehand that a device or finger made in another dimension doesn’t come with instant enlightenment? So should any beings from other worlds happen to be telepathically reading my blog, you can rest confident that if you suck me off this planet into your ship, I won’t be bad talking you in the press after my reaming.

Roadside in New Mexico 2005

This stretch of the story is almost over. A few more curves may be ahead, but with only a couple of photos and one more day left to deal with, I can finally let this part of my past join its brethren in the trunk of memories.

Roadside in New Mexico 2005

That darkness is from the heavy clouds forming in my head, obscuring the words to finish this. I’m searching for the wit to bring an elegant close to my writing, but it’s hard to see a way forward. Maybe some new windshield wipers or turning on the high beams will light or clear the way? No chance; I just have to accept that I’ve taken this as far as I’m going to.

Roadside in New Mexico 2005

And with that, the golden light of the late day setting sun illuminates the horizon while the god rays of hope pull me forward. I’m absolved of adding another word and can rest assured that another day is just around the corner.

Auntie and Grandpa Going to Florida – Day 13

Roadside in Louisiana 2005

Natchitoches, Louisiana, and the end of notes from the trip. There’s nothing else I wrote about, so here I am nearly 15 years after I made this journey with Aunt Eleanor and Grandpa Herbert, both of whom have since passed away, and I need to come up with some kind of narrative that might flow with the previous 12 days that had copious notes.

To be honest, there’s not a lot left in my head about this leg, and what I posted in those other entries didn’t trigger some deep memories that I can harvest to fill this space. We were on the way home, but there were so many photos I wanted to share as we were obviously not rushing back to Phoenix. So now what?

Roadside in Louisiana 2005

Kind of like a traffic signal in the middle of nowhere; death shows up, and we come to a stop. Ten months after this trip across America’s southern states, my maternal grandfather passed away. He was the last surviving grandparent I had, and then a few years after that, in 2009, my great-aunt Eleanor died at the age of 97. Eleanor was Herbie’s older sister.

Roadside in Louisiana 2005

The memories of family that have moved on can, at times, be like a body of water in that they are there, but they might be somewhere just below the surface. Over time, much of that water will evaporate, and while it can fall back to earth, there is little likelihood that you’ll ever see it again. Like with water, there are places where memories run deeper, but without the proper craft, we may not know how to reach them.

This simile is how I feel I can best express myself today as I look inward, trying to remember who my relatives were during this time in their lives. The existential nature of being on a path to learning who we are doesn’t leave a lot of bandwidth for trying to know who others were and how they got there. They were more like fixtures of fully-formed selves that I simply couldn’t comprehend thinking they already had arrived at who they were – or did they? How often do we consider that the elderly are still becoming?

Roadside in Louisiana 2005

It’s simultaneously funny and tragic that the folly of our ignorance doesn’t allow us to see that the elderly, too, might be on a never-ending path of becoming and that curiosity could still be introducing them to things they don’t know. Instead of greater sharing across generations, we operate in distinct and separate universes where the age of experience draws a line between us while our youth or advanced age suggests there’s no chance the other could begin to relate to us.

Time is the road, we are the vehicle, and our evolving memories are the passengers. The paths we travel are ever-present, be they dirt traces that deliver the traders of goods, invisible skyways that fly people overhead, or trails that lead us on canyon hikes. What is not so easy to see or find are the memories of others who seem to rarely encounter each other at random intersections.

Roadside in Texas 2005

Our photos can act as great signposts that show us where we’ve been but it is only the words we commit to a surface of things that can exist beyond their otherwise short lives in our heads. Once written, they might allow others to know something about who we were and how we came to perceive things the way we did.

This idea speaks volumes to what we do and don’t do to exist beyond the time when our exhausted bodies cease being the vehicles that are responsible for allowing others to meet us on the highway of life. Trinkets, photos, pieces of old clothing, wedding bands, or various possessions cannot share the person we were or knew. Just as we have taken to leaving these mementos to those who have loved us, we fail to give them an intrinsic gift of that look within us while we are still breathing.

Roadside in Texas 2005

Telling of these travels in life and where our road into our own infinity was taking us is the only trail of crumbs we might be able to offer. An exercise of writing about how we got to the places we arrived at should be part of our everyday life, just as sleeping and eating are. I’m not saying just our literal travels and explorations of places we visited but telling the story of how we came to be who we are emotionally and intellectually when wandering in our minds.

Roadside in Texas 2005

Sadly, I feel that too many of us are long defunct after having abandoned the processes where we serve a human function aside from feeding the machine of commerce, parenthood, and the expectations of others who require our affirmation of their bland conformity. Only a few of us are out here to encounter the extraordinary and rare sights that bridge eras, epochs, cultures, and the very act of trying to know anything about something.

Roadside in Texas 2005

Does it matter that you might have but one more cow among the many grazing in the meadow? Who of us raises our head out of the tightly packed herd to say, here I am? It will be the cow that constructed a monument to bovine-ness, using its cloven hoof to sculpt an object of beauty that leaves us astonished at its feat we thought impossible.

We have to leave our story to others so they might be witnesses to the monument to ourselves, allowing them to better understand who and what we were. We focus on the geniuses, celebrities, and those ordained by taste-makers to be our cultural representatives, but that tells little of the ordinary and unexceptional cogs in the machine that goes about a life living in a pasture called the city.

Roadside in Texas 2005

Have you ever left your own pasture? Did you take the uncomfortable and bumpy road where your expectations of particular creature comforts failed to meet your desires? Trying new foods, sleeping in strange beds, adapting to different weather, and talking with others who seem to speak a foreign language due to their different frames of reference can be a challenge for almost everybody. But consider the risk of being the flea on the ass of the beast next to you in the field you have always lived in before asking in your later years if you experienced anything resembling real freedom?

Roadside in Texas 2005

The contentedness of staying in place is for cattle. We are humans meant to explore not just the physical world but the options of what we want to know and believe as we encounter those who might lend affirmation to a life of intellectual uncertainty. My family without me appreciating it when I was younger, were nomads having left Germany, moving around upstate New York, heading to Florida for a while, and finally ending up in Arizona. They weren’t afraid to wander. Then, in their 80s and 90s, they wanted to see America from a different perspective, as prior to this trip, they stayed on major highways or flew to their destinations. Being out on a journey over back roads with me was an adventure that presented many new experiences to these retirees that they wouldn’t have otherwise been able to take or endure.

Roadside in Texas 2005

When I say they had to “endure” this trip, don’t think for a minute that it was always easy for them to travel so far. Sitting in place for long periods when they might want to stretch their legs. Being too hot, too cold, hungry, thirsty, or needing a bathroom in the next 10 seconds had them making compromises with creature comforts that are readily available at home. Their remaining paths in life didn’t have a long time left to travel (my grandfather had less than 12 months to go). Herbie was an inspiration to me for many a year. Ever since I was a small boy I was fascinated by him, from his work as a painter and woodworker to piloting his yacht on the Niagara River and Lake Erie. He was a giant who did stuff. In the 1970s, he had open-heart surgery, but for the next 30 years, he never slowed down. He was always up for making the sacrifices that took him out and into the new.

Roadside in Texas 2005

My Aunt Eleanor was a rock to me. She was my mother when my own 16-year-old mom couldn’t meet my demands as a teenager. Not only did Auntie care for my sister and me, but she was also caring for her own mom, my great-grandmother Josephine. As a 5-year-old boy, I could have never comprehended that my aunt loved me as much as her own mom. Auntie gave selflessly of herself and never seemed unhappy. While she didn’t marry until she was nearly 70 years old and lost her husband after only about 15 years of marriage, my great-aunt had one of the greatest dispositions of anyone I might ever know in my lifetime.

Roadside in Texas 2005

Those two are now like the trees over there on the other side of the fence; they are out of reach but not fully out of view. They live on in my heart and memories, and if I’m lucky and ever pass this way again, I hope to catch a glimpse of them. How much of who they were and precisely what they instilled in who I’ve become cannot be separated from the totality of me, but I know that there is goodness they carried that spilled into me in some small or hopefully big way. Time will tell.

Roadside in Texas 2005

Late in the day, we were driving into the sunset just as everyone does every day, but while we were closing in on dinner and a hotel, little did any of us have in mind that the last one was always on the horizon. While our time on earth allows us to perceive hints of what infinity might be, we will not be afforded the opportunity to be witness to even a fraction of what that means. Knowing the rarity of our time here, walking under such beautiful skies should never be taken for granted. Leave your routine people, and even when you can’t leave home, you can still leave the well-trodden paths in your mind and venture into the unknown. Books are a great first start if you’ve forgotten the way to see into the realms of possibility.

Roadside in Texas 2005

It’ll be dark soon enough, and when you can never see the light or find your mind illuminated by the fire of existence again, there will be no time for regrets. The story will be done, and your chapter will be finished. While we might be able to jam 100 days of experience into a single day, we cannot stuff a lifetime of existence into the final 10 minutes before we die. So, how’s your own story going?

Auntie and Grandpa Going to Florida – Day 12

Natchez Trace in Mississippi March 2005

In the morning, as the sun rises into blue skies, the red door of my room blazes a fiery red, reminding me that we stayed the night in Redwater, Mississippi. Just a few minutes further, and we are on the Natchez Trace Parkway. I cannot help but travel north a short way to maximize our time on this historic road that slices a path through the forest. The National Park administers the more than 440 miles of the Trace and does so admirably. Caroline and I drove the length of the Trace in the year 2000, starting in Nashville, Tennessee, its terminus, and for the next two days, we crawled slowly south to Natchez, Mississippi.

Natchez Trace in Mississippi March 2005

Leaving the Trace, back then, was tragic as we had wound down and decompressed. Rejoining the speed of life highway-style was a rude transition back to modernity. Joining the Trace today, I’m filled with fond memories and the thrill of excitement. Back when Caroline and I were here, we had rain and gray, but still, it is one of the top scenic drives we have taken.

Natchez Trace in Mississippi March 2005

Although I could easily keep on with my travel north, I turned around after 11 miles to keep us close to our loosely defined schedule. It is a beautiful sunny day to take in the details, shadows, waters, life, and sense of history along this great American scenic byway.

The Trace commemorates an ancient trail originally established by Native American tribes, the Choctaw, Chickasaw, and others. From 1785 to 1820, it found its heaviest use as the Kaintuck boatmen (rough guys who plied the waters of the Mississippi) who had gone downriver on the Mississippi and the Ohio Rivers to markets in Natchez and New Orleans made their way north again to Nashville on this path. Walking the length of the trail the men who were flush with money from selling their boat and goods dealt with swamps, thickets, forests, wild animals, bandits, and little in the way of accommodations.

Eleanor Burke on the Natchez Trace in Mississippi March 2005

Today, the swamps reflect old cypress, moss, and an often wild landscape adjoining freshly manicured grasses straddling one of America’s best-kept roads. There are interpretive trails taking visitors on educationally informative walks. Wild animals of the predatory type are long gone, a few turkeys, deer, vultures, armadillos, raccoons, and squirrels can be seen by sharp eyes. Bandits and accommodations are kept well away from the Trace, as is commercial traffic.

Natchez Trace in Mississippi March 2005

The Trace has a top speed of 50 miles per hour. I find it difficult today to drive much above 30mph and wish that once in my lifetime, I could walk the length of this road. There are not a lot of cars here, and only a limited number of locations for them to join the Trace. You won’t find a restaurant here or a billboard. For 444 miles, you will find the natural side of America much the way it has looked since the Trace saw its first travelers back around 8000 B.C.

Natchez Trace in Mississippi March 2005

Historic sites are well-marked with large signs explaining what event or reason this particular area is being recognized. We stop at a few taking the time to familiarize ourselves with some of the roadside lore.

Trees tower over us, casting shadows from the east side of the road to the west. Some trees are bright green, while others have no fresh growth yet; we are still coming out of winter. Flowers dot the grasses and spread to the edge of the forests. Bright yellows, delicate whites, and tiny purple flowers are all making an early spring appearance.

Natchez Trace in Mississippi March 2005

The Pearl River makes a curve along a bend of the Trace, and we are pulled towards its shore. A lonesome boat floats quietly as its sole occupant fishes on calm waters. The tranquility of the river set in this Mississippi forest acts as a great host to us travelers. Our only wish is to linger a little longer than we do.

Natchez Trace in Mississippi March 2005

Nothing lends itself better to feeling like you are in a primitive landscape than when coming across a flooded cypress grove. Ancient trees send roots out of the brackish water while moss creeps up the trunk towards the tops of trees, reflecting their blue sky frames in the dark mirrored surface. The scene offers the senses a jolt that keeps our minds and imaginations busy. The water-swollen bases of the trees look more like elephant feet than tree trunks, lending to the curiosity stirred up while staring into these primordial forests.

Natchez Trace in Mississippi March 2005

More historic signs, more trees, and more blacktop, but the road is never dull. We cross small creeks, minor roads pass over the Trace, and the noonday sun illuminates the forest floor when trees aren’t busy blocking its light. A stop to look at wildflowers offers bees and bugs sharing flowers. Near the Choctaw boundary, another stop to inspect details, I look at fresh green leaves, old brown leaves, moss, bark, and a creek with two folks wandering its waters on their own exploration.

Eleanor Burke and Herbert Kurchoff on the Natchez Trace in Mississippi March 2005

Soon after seeing our first example of a rustic split rail fence we encounter one of the few remaining original sections of the Sunken Trace. More than eight feet deep in places from the hundreds of thousands of shoes that tamped down this trail, we move towards its edge for Auntie and Grandpa to have a view. Trees grow precariously close to the rim near the steep drop-off to the trail below. Back on the pavement, we inch closer to the end of the road.

Natchez Trace in Mississippi March 2005

Mount Locust was, for many a traveler the first stop on their long walk north. A primitive stand, once one of many along the Trace, is now the lone survivor. Originally built in 1780, this oldest home in Mississippi changed owners until William Ferguson took over and added a small two-story inn, allowing travelers to grab a bunk for the night. Today the old house acts as an interpretive center telling the story of the Kaintuck’s journeys.

Natchez Trace in Mississippi March 2005

From Mount Locust, we took an unmarked road. Down this dirt path, I drive as I’m curious to see what might be at the end of the way. A good part of the road is an original section of the Trace. Not knowing where we were going was at first ok as the trail was yet again more rustic than the paved road we had been on. After a few turns, we seemed to be crawling deeper into a thicker and thicker forest.

I am asked if I know where I am going; nope, no idea, but I am following this road we are on. The road forks, and we stay to the left. A home on the left, a home on the right, more homes, and I start to wonder just where we are. Two nervous passengers keep me alert, and I start to contemplate the idea of turning around. Having what I think is a good sense of where the paved road must be, I continue on.

Not long and we are on one of the tiny dirt road intersections that occasionally cross the Trace, now I know where those roads go. In just a few minutes, we are at the end of the Trace. It has taken us six hours to drive about 130 miles; someday, I will take twice as long.

Natchez, Mississippi March 2005

Minutes later a historic marker brings our attention to the Jefferson Military College. A quick stop and we find out that this was Mississippi’s first educational institution of higher learning, which opened its doors on January 7, 1811. In 1818, a young ten-year-old Jefferson Davis attended the school, but in 1863, it closed its doors due to the Civil War. The college reopened in 1866 as a preparatory school until the time it permanently closed in 1964.

The entrance to the well-maintained grounds is free. Self-guided tours of the restored West Wing, the kitchen, and Prospere Hall, where interpretive exhibitions, a gift shop, and restrooms are all found. The T.J. Foster Nature Trail takes visitors through a wooded ravine, past St. Catherine’s Creek, over bridges, past Ellicott Springs, and a historic cemetery. Nice place.

Natchez, Mississippi March 2005

Natchez, Mississippi, is one of America’s oldest cities. Founded before New Orleans, it was once the home of more millionaires than any other place on earth outside of New York City. The city is internationally known as being the home to some of the best examples of surviving antebellum homes. These are not them.

Natchez Trace in Mississippi March 2005

A visitor’s reception center sitting high above the banks of the Mississippi next to the bridge that takes people to and from Louisiana is a great first stop to learn about the local sights. Not only are maps available for self-guided tours to see these old historic homes but tours inside many of them are available.

Louisiana 2005

If only this were a tailgate road trip with a portable cooking setup where we could have made our own boiled peanuts and cooked up some crawfish, we bought along the side of the road, this could have been so much more.

Louisiana 2005

There will be no roadside cookouts doing it cajun style, but there will be dinner and a proper motel to take a rest from a busy day that, at times, I feel is more about me and my desires than the guests I’m ferrying across America’s southern states.

Auntie and Grandpa Going to Florida – Day 9

Florida coast in 2005

Wednesday turns out to be a rather dull day. We started on a good footing with breakfast with the Densfords. By the time we dropped them off back home, it was raining. From here, we began our push more or less back to Phoenix. On the 70 East, it rains, it rains in Arcadia, and it’s raining in Okeechobee. Rain comes down at Fort Pierce on the Atlantic Ocean. Going north in the rain, it continues to rain. When we arrive at the hotel, it’s raining. Delivering dinner to Auntie and Grandpa, it was raining. What a wet, dull day.

Florida coast in 2005

To be clear about the quality of this dullness, I blame it on the low, heavy gray skies pouring rain down upon us. The rain had the effect of moving our moods in the wrong direction, but maybe it was also the fact that all of the important stuff is now done. The environment itself added to my own negativity as I was looking at the horrific urban sprawl of McMansions taking over forest land being turned into pseudo farmland for the sake of people’s egos to have it all. The Tampa/St. Petersburg / Bradenton / Sarasota Megalopolis is growing into the ‘boring’ flat nothingness lands that exist between the other cities and this corner of Florida.

Eleanor Burke in Florida

Passing through Arcadia, a note was made to revisit this small town; it is still authentically small and not modernized by branded commercialism. As for the eastern seaboard here on the Atlantic, what a waste of time this coast is. Everything is privately owned; thanks to California for showing us how the coast should be available to all. Million-dollar luxury beachfront hurricane targets and view obstructions line up like row housing in any urban setting from a big city across America.

Herbert Kurchoff in Florida

There is no ocean to see, no beach to walk, only private signs warning you to keep out. Mile after mile of inhospitable homes acts as a private gate to bar Joe Citizen from the Atlantic Ocean. So, if you are one of the ten million Americans who belong to the club of isolation, then you will probably enjoy your stay here in Snoberita-Ville.

John Wise in Florida

As for our tour of Cape Canaveral that was to take place in the afternoon, the rain slowed us down so much that we were quite late. Even so, with so much rain, I didn’t feel we would get our money’s worth scooting between facilities while Auntie and Grandpa got colder and wetter.

Florida rain

So you see, if it hadn’t been raining cats and dogs and city planners hadn’t allowed the building of forest-destroying super homes with impenetrable iron walls blocking the view of the entire ocean, then things might have been hunky-dory and I wouldn’t have had a dull day.

Sonny's Real Pit BBQ somewhere in Florida

Comfort food to the rescue, as there’s nothing like eating BBQ to soothe the soul. Tomorrow will surely be better.

Auntie and Grandpa Going to Florida – Day 8

Herbert Kurchoff with Eleanor Burke and the Densford's in Florida

Thunder wakes me before dawn. I roll over and go back to sleep, only to wake on my own minutes before the alarm was supposed to rouse me. Our breakfast will be at IHOP followed by getting onto the next of the three main reasons for this trip. First was seeing Jessica, the second was Grandpa going to Camp Shelby, and now the third visiting the Densfords.

At breakfast, Auntie reminisces about this neighborhood she knows so well. We had no problem finding our way; we even traced the roads Auntie would take when riding her bicycle from her villa to the Days Inn, which used to have a different restaurant than the IHOP we’re at now. Before arriving for breakfast, we stopped at her old place so I could see the house of which I received many photos, along with Auntie and her husband, Ken Burke, while I lived in Germany for ten years.

Auntie tells me the story of how she ultimately came to reside in Florida and the Bradenton area, in particular, following her retirement. She had gone to visit Lillydale, New York, with a friend one day, and one of the psychics asked if she would like a reading. For $10, Auntie agreed to have her fortune read and sat down.

The psychic told her she had to go to the St. Petersburg, Florida, area and that she saw the letter K as having significance, along with something about chicken. Without a lot going on, Auntie called on Grandpa’s wife, my grandmother Hazel, to help her drive down to Florida. On arrival, Auntie picked up a paper and found a real estate listing of a villa she would soon be buying.

Fast forward to a dinner engagement with friends that began with a lady embracing one of the guests named Ken with the exclamation, “K, we have missed you so.” Auntie had just learned Ken’s nickname. After dating for a while, Auntie found that Ken’s favorite food was chicken. So all the pieces the psychic had told Auntie about had come together, and she was astounded to this day that this lady in Lily Dale so accurately had foretold my aunt’s future. What the psychic hadn’t shared with Auntie was that Ken would ultimately be my great-aunt’s first husband: she married him at the age of 69.

Breakfast done we head to our destination, the Densford residence. Grandpa knocks on the door, and after a couple of minutes, a frail, wispy lady answers the door: it is Virginia, and right behind her is her sister Marion. Stepping into the living room, Auntie grabbed both women and hugged them with tears in her eyes; she choked me up, and this wouldn’t be the only time this day she would do that.

It has been three years since last these old ladies had seen each other. For many years they had been neighbors here in Bradenton, but also back in Angola, New York. They have been lifelong friends and today is one more precious moment to revisit one another. Marion is the younger sister of Virginia, who recently celebrated her 90 birthday. I have been told that I met Marion many a time but the memory of a 4-year-old is not so robust, nor is the memory of the 41-year-old writing this.

Auntie’s hearing is normally bad, really bad. Listening to Marion and Virginia, it seems her hearing is as acute as it has ever been. They swap stories fast, catch up on who’s sick and passed away, coming alive in a way I had never witnessed before. Running through events, Auntie was actually riled up about the treatment Martha Stewart received, and she demanded with vocal authority that if her health and legs were not in such poor shape she and the girls would go out to women’s groups across America and demand equal treatment of Ken Lay of Enron and Bernie Ebbers of Worldcom.

Florida coast in 2005

I am asked to recount our trip across the country so far and tell of driving out of Arizona, New Mexico, and into the Pecos Hills of Texas. I talked of the Bayou Coast of southern Louisiana, our detour to Camp Shelby, and our arrival in Pensacola to visit Jessica.

I also have a rather funny anecdote to share with them about passing wind. I do so with Auntie’s permission. Traveling near Biloxi, we stopped for catfish a few nights before. Typically, the noise in busy restaurants bothers Auntie due to her hearing aids picking up too many sounds. As we leave the restaurant, Auntie tugs at my arm to tell me, “I am so happy this restaurant was so loud tonight; I passed gas the entire meal.” Oh God, Auntie, too much info. I told her I’ll be calling her Farts Burke for the remainder of our trip.

Auntie gets a side cramp laughing at this today; she had forgotten about this episode and was tickled to hear it retold. If nothing else can be said as far as body functions go, old people have no shame left.

Ninety minutes after arriving I ask everyone to step outside as the gray clouds have given way to blue skies. Sitting in the front yard, I snap a photo that I would swear Auntie’s smile erased years of aging from her face.

Florida coast in 2005

Before walking back inside, we knocked on the door of a neighbor whom Auntie had known while she lived around the corner in the same development. Bill, a now slight man, answers the door. Auntie and Bill exchange greetings, determine who has died, and Bill begins to tell Auntie about his cancer. He begins with that his testicles and prostate have been removed, which has him having to urinate all the time now.

Not just that, but when he has to go, it is right now. He said he almost lives next to the toilet now, sleeps with a bedpan, but still manages to wake at 3:00 a.m. all wet. If he goes to the bank he has to put on a catheter and wear a bag so he doesn’t wet his pants in line. This is told straight-faced and deadpan, as I said above.

Back inside, I ask to be forgiven as I would like to excuse myself and use the turning of the weather to make my way towards the beach to see if I can snap a few pix before the clouds move back in. With a promise to return in an hour, they encouraged me to take my time. I do.

Florida coast in 2005

Driving away, I was considering returning right away instead of fighting traffic on a road under construction, which is the road I need to take to the beach. Plus, clouds are to the south, to the north, and behind me in the east. I am struck with the fact that this is my first time alone outside of sleeping, so I turn on the music and turn it up. Now motivated, I take the chance that I can get to the coast for a photo of the Gulf of Mexico with some blue sky. It is not long before I am on the bridge, crossing over to Anna Maria Key.

The sea is green; the blue sky opens as clouds dissipate. The sun sparkles in the crashing surf, and couples walk along the water’s edge barefoot, enjoying the absence of the forecasted rain and winds.

Florida coast in 2005

Measuring the beauty quotient multiplied by the weather potential divided by the relaxation-driven retirement population in addition to the throngs who descend on the area for spring training, this place has the potential to be overrun. It isn’t, though; it is pleasant, with relatively light traffic and easy parking right next to the beach. Anyone who’s been to Maine or the coast of Belgium in summer can tell horror stories about traffic snarls and overcrowding.

From one beach access point to the next, I have to stop at nearly everyone for another photo so Caroline can see this place and demand that I bring her here. Gulf Drive is the two-lane road taking me to the northern end of this small island. On that end is a small park with a fantastic view.

Florida coast in 2005

A little boy is throwing bread or chips to the birds who are lining up for the treats. His equally little sister is laughing and yelling while chasing the birds, who are startled and take flight only to hover just out of her reach until they sense a moment of quiet. They quickly land to finish picking up the meal strewn over the white sand.

Florida coast in 2005

Pelicans fly by, shorebirds walk along, while others fly directly at me. On a nearby pier, fishermen can be seen casting a line into the clear green water. In the grasses, wildflowers are blooming bright yellow. It is no wonder this part of Florida has become a draw for retirees.

Florida coast in 2005

Having my fill of picture taking and being aware that Grandpa will need more meds and maybe some lunch or early dinner, it is time to return to the villas. The four of them were just talking away, and for a short time, I re-entered the conversation. I asked if anyone was hungry, and Grandpa said, “We just ate,” well, Grandpa, that was about 7 hours ago. Marion declines, but Virginia says yes, which changes Marion’s mind. Auntie is hungry, as am I.

Bob Evans restaurant was the choice for the group. Grandpa finds out that he is hungry and has a meal with the rest of us. A nearby table starts a conversation with me, asking what I’m doing with the old people. Is this really such an uncommon sight? This isn’t the first time this has happened; it happened in Van Horn, Texas, Lafayette, Louisiana, and Apalachicola, Florida. I explain that I have brought my great-aunt and grandfather out for a cross-country road trip, and they are so impressed that I am nearly embarrassed.

Some have told me that this is one of the most important things I will do in my lifetime. Others have said that I am the greatest nephew/grandson for making such a wonderful gesture. A lady from Illinois told me that I was acting in such an honorable manner that I should be proud of. At tonight’s table, the couple at the other table went on about how nice this was and how they wished other young people would take an interest in their elderly relatives’ happiness.

At the end of our meal, another couple who had been sitting in earshot of the earlier conversation stopped at our table as they were leaving and congratulated me for taking the time to spend a vacation with such wonderful people and hoped others could be so inspired. Almost awkwardly, I start feeling like the celebrated example of a legend who, at the tender age of 41, sacrifices his selfish interests for the enjoyment of his elderly family to take them across the country through hardship and poor weather just to see their family more than two thousand miles away.

In reality, they help me afford the luxury of taking yet more photos of our stunning countryside, and we are traveling fairly comfortably in our minivan to the Days Inns, Best Westerns, and a few random lodgings at the in-between locations.

After dinner, I deliver the Densfords back home. We agree to meet at 8:30 for breakfast and I take Grandpa and Auntie back to our hotel. I head out again, this time going north and then west, trying to capture a nice sunset photo.

I see many nice shots of the setting sun but no opportunity to pull over and frame it. Behind trees, homes, and businesses, I try to grab a spot but the sun is falling out of the sky like the proverbial lead balloon. I manage a couple of snaps, but nothing that comes close to capturing what I had been seeing moments earlier.