This is our niece Katharina on the playground – obviously not in America. I say obviously because if you look, she is running on a spinning wheel, she could hurt herself and sue someone if this were in America. Look at the uneven logs in the background, holes where feet could get trapped, ropes to fall over. It’s a sorry state we have come to that liability insurance, lawsuits, and greed has in part taken some of the fun away from being a child. Fortunately, this little girl is growing up in Germany where she can still skin a knee, run around without a care, and have fun on the playground.
Snails
My brother-in-law, Klaus, from Germany sent this photo of two snails dedicated to Caroline from our niece, Katharina. Caroline’s nickname as a little girl was Schnecke – which is snail in German, so it is wonderful that Katharina thinks of her aunt Caroline and has made such a beautiful drawing of her aunt who lives so far away in America. Sadly, we have not yet met Katharina as we have not been back to Germany in 12 years and Caroline’s sister Stephanie, her husband, and daughter haven’t yet come to America. On occasion though we see some very sweet photos of Katharina, such as the ones I will be posting for the next few days. Maybe one day we will be able to convince Stephanie and Klaus to bring Katharina for a visit so she can go to Disneyland, hike a bit of the Grand Canyon, look for bears in Yellowstone, take a dip in the Pacific Ocean and finally meet her aunt and uncle for the first time.
St. Lawrence Seaway, NY – Day 4
If I had to guess, I’d say this is the first portrait of Louisa Priezula and Blasius Knezetic in the United States somewhere near about 1905 after they passed through Ellis Island. My great-grandmother, while known as Luba in her village of Ozalj near Karlovac, Croatia, would become Lillian in America in order to better fit in. Blasius became Robert. Seven years after taking up residence in Buffalo, New York, they started having children, starting with my Uncle Bob and stopping at the seventh child, my Aunt Ann.
It’s a shame that I never dug deep into who my family was as I was too preoccupied with my own travails to be able to take much interest in people who felt distant and foreign, combined with the fact that I’d never know them. Growing older, I now know that I’d like to know more about their story, but those who could share and might have known something are all gone. Keep in mind that while I’m writing the majority of the blog entries from this trip in 2007 based on notes Caroline kept as we drove across the Eastern United States, is now 2020 when I’m finally assembling this. Hindsight is really at work these days: back in 2007, I felt like my family would somehow always be there – wrong.
Before leaving Buffalo, we stopped at Barnes & Noble to pick up a map of the United States, a coffee, and hopefully, something that would detail hiking and bike trails across the Buffalo region. Sadly, that kind of book does not exist.
Our route is moving in reverse of the trip my mom and I took a couple of years ago and so Caroline and I drive this abomination car called Mustang north through Lockport and Newfane up to Olcott Beach on Lake Ontario.
You just knew Caroline had to step into Lake Ontario at the first opportunity. From this point east, we’ll be traveling the Seaway Trail National Scenic Byway.
To some, these may be simple dandelions, but to these two people from the desert of Arizona, they are a field of glorious color.
Thirty Mile Point Lighthouse in Barker, New York, is only about 14 miles up the road from the previous lighthouse, but we are far from suffering from lighthouse fatigue, so we had to visit.
Why we find shoe trees so interesting is kind of strange, considering that this is likely not good for the tree. Either they are nailed to the poor tree, or they hang from the branches, and when the shoes get wet they probably put a lot of stress on it.
Charlotte Genesee Lighthouse was our next major stop along the byway. By the end of this trip, we’ll likely realize this journey to the Eastern United States should have been called the 2007 Lighthouse Tour. I should point out how nice it is to be out here with Caroline to enjoy the luxury of taking in the really important things and not being on a race to the next diner, restaurant, farmers market, ice cream stand, bakery, or winery as I was with my mom back in 2005.
Well, speaking of food. Mom and I stopped here, and I fell in love with the location right on Lake Ontario, so it seemed like a great place to bring Caroline for lunch. We had a Red Plate and a Guppy Plate, which are both haddock but in different portion sizes. Still hungry, I also ordered a Texas Hot. No wonder I’m fat. For those who may not know, a Texas Hot is a charbroiled hot dog with a red chili sauce. It’s a Western New York thing, so now you know. To top it all off, we each had a Birch Beer that might best be described as a kind of root beer.
Visiting Rudy’s Lakeside Drive-In in Oswego, New York. I wonder what kind of idiot is driving that ugly, poorly designed-Mustang out front? Oh yeah, I’m the idiot. I seriously wish we’d exchanged this thing for something else, anything else, even a moped.
Driving along, looking at the fruit trees in bloom, recently plowed fields, and the occasional glimpse of the St. Lawrence Seaway on our left, Caroline and I are attuned with senses on high alert, looking for spots that make us say ‘wow.’ This small streambed with barely an inch of water running over clean bedrock was just one of the moments. On this afternoon, we were traveling northeast on New York Route 12 to its terminus in Morristown, NY, before getting on NY 37. As usual, we passed over the stream and, recognizing the beauty of the location, had to turn around, park the car, and walk out over the bridge to take the shot. If I had a wish, it would be that we were biking this road. It is quiet out here; the occasional scent of flowers and sweet grasses is just dreamy; it’s hard to imagine the harshness of winter that just passed through before us.
There are many waterways, creeks, and streams along the road. Each is photogenic in its own right but we are recognizing that we are now starting to run behind. While our schedule is flexible, we booked rooms for each and every night, so we do have destinations we need to get to, and in some cases, we need to check in well before midnight.
At times, the road couldn’t be any closer to the water, and the flies couldn’t be thicker. I don’t believe we’ve ever encountered thicker clouds of flying insects before being out here. While some of the photos could portray just how bad they were, Photoshop came to the rescue to remove the blurs that added nothing to these photos or our memories.
Tibbetts Point Lighthouse in Cape Vincent, New York at the mouth of the Saint Lawrence Seaway. We are only 100 miles away from Massena, New York, up the seaway, but at our speed, it will be midnight before we arrive. Time to hit the gas.
Amazing photos along the seaway are not here but the memories hopefully travel with us. Dinner was at Bauernstube Restaurant for German food. This is the same place my mom and I had breakfast a couple of years ago. Hmm, wasn’t I just saying this trip isn’t all about food?
The Lakeview Motel in Massena, New York, for the bargain-basement price of only $55 a night was ours. What do you think? Was the view worth it?
Buffalo Memories – Day 3
My cousin Brian Marynowski is our tour guide today. Our first stop was at Love Canal, which used to be a thriving neighborhood here in Buffalo until buried toxic waste started seeping into basements and bubbling up in areas where kids played. Ultimately, the contaminated area was evacuated, and attempts to remediate the place were undertaken, starting about 30 years ago. It was just a few years ago that Love Canal was moved off the Superfund site list, but I doubt anyone will be living here along these decaying streets again in my lifetime.
Water spilling over rocks to form waterfalls is so much more than a simple description. The roar of the plummeting waters with rising mists catching the sun to produce countless rainbows reminds us of the force that water is when it’s not sitting in a pool or lake, just playing home to some fish. Our second time here, and still, we’ll not be venturing out on the river below that takes visitors to the foot of Niagara Falls, but one day we’ll get out there.
That’s Brian Marynowski between us and the city of Niagara Falls, Canada, behind us. As where Buffalo is in a state of decay, the city across the river is thriving. I think some of the differentiating characteristics between the neighbors was that one embraced change and diversity while the other, afraid of losing their blue-collar past, held onto ideas of how things should stay the way they were and that it was everyone else’s fault their city was faltering.
This beautiful corner in Buffalo is Our Lady of Victory Basilica, which is also referred to as Father Baker’s.
Inside, Our Lady of Victory compares with many of the cathedrals of Europe.
This amazing temple to the divine Beef on Weck should be considered a holy shrine as they are not only the creators of this Buffalonian delicacy but have been a fixture in this city since 1837. This was where we had lunch, even though Brian insisted there was somewhere better. I closed my ears to that argument and didn’t note the address so I could remain a purist and maintain my loyalty to the one and only Schwabl’s.
The visit to Mount Olivet Cemetery was an unexpected surprise as I’d not previously considered that many of my relatives found their final resting place here in Buffalo. The cemetery is located at 4000 Elmwood Ave.
Here lies my paternal great-grandfather Robert Knezetic, born Blasius, who was father to my grandmother Amelia Wise.
His wife was Lillian, also known as Luba; she was born in Croatia as Louisa Priezula.
This is my paternal grandfather, John Alexander Wise. He was a giant in my eyes, but I later came to understand that he was an angry and raging man who lent that quality to my father, who, in turn, tried to let me inherit the trait. I hope that the ugliness in this bloodline dies with me.
This was my dear grandmother and a woman who certainly loved her grandchildren. She endured a very hard life of deprivations, mostly created by her husband, my grandfather. Her health started to deteriorate in the late 1970s, and she passed away at the age of only 64.
To finish off our second full day in Buffalo, Aunt Lillian prepared a picnic BBQ for Brian, Jonathan, Jacob, Caroline, and myself. Sadly, I wasn’t able to snap a photo of my favorite aunt as she’s not been feeling well with her diabetes. This dreaded disease is what killed her father and her brother, and now it’s her nemesis, too. Hung out talking for the rest of the day enjoying the nostalgia of lives lived in the City of Light – Buffalo, New York.
44
Today, the 4th day of the 4th month, I turned 44. This celebratory photo was taken a week before in Santa Barbara, California, where very much to my surprise, this cake, along with a rendition of the Birthday song, was all of a sudden in front of my face. I needed a few moments before I realized this was in my honor. Keeping Caroline out of the loop helped as she looked as surprised as I did. My cousin Nancy, Aunt Jean, Daniel, Theresa, Aunt Ann, Uncle Woody, and good old Boyd were all present and made for the best surprise party I have ever had.
Early Birthday
This is what happens when you have a bad head for names; on the left is Boyd. My uncle Woody is obviously in the middle, but I have no recollection of the guy’s name on the right. This is embarrassing.
It’s not very often I’m surprised, especially when it’s still 11 days before my birthday.
For the occasion of my upcoming 44th year, my aunt Ann and uncle Woody with their friend Boyd, brought out a cake on our visit to Santa Barbara this weekend.