Rothenburg, Germany

Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

Disclaimer: This blog entry wasn’t written until seven years after the trip. It should be noted that this was a huge mistake. Sometimes after writing so much about other days, it happens that at the time directly after the trip or even during, I convince myself that the details are not that important. Years later, these details are that important, and pulling them out of foggy memories is difficult. The photos help and often leave clues, and then Caroline’s memories are usually far clearer than mine. With that said, here goes.

Rothenburg ob der Tauber is the full name of this town and with 52 images accompanying this blog entry, this promises to be a full-on slog to get to the end. Looking down to the bottom, I see the spaghetti ice cream, and I’d like to just jump to it and tell you how yummy it was, but there were all these things we saw along the way that I need to make note of, so we can better cement the experience in our memories.

Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

While I’d been here in Rothenburg years before I met Caroline, and she’d been here as a student, we were too young to appreciate things beyond their surface. Now, when we glance at things superficially, we do so with intent and pretend we are taking in some deeper meaning. Of course, we had to step up on the village defensive wall because being old means we have had to move beyond just getting some food and souvenirs to say we’ve been here. Honestly, though I don’t think we were ever really blasé about our encounters with history, maybe it sounds better to say we were normal young adults non-plussed by things we now find interesting. To admit more than a glancing interest in “old” stuff back when we were young only made us look nerdier than both of us already were. I’m sure everyone around us already knew the level of our social discomfort brought on by our sense of being different, but we needed to believe we were just as disaffected and cool as the cool and disaffected people we loved to hate.

Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

Now we walk into the living landscape of history writ large on the tapestry of time, and we ogle it all with a sense of ooh and aah that is unreservedly laden with geekiness of nerds who really are trying to know as much as possible. We need the impressions splayed across contrasting layers of the environment to sear their geometry and colors deep within our minds so our dreams come alive out of the pages of history instead of out of the ring of the UFC or from the track of NASCAR.

Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

And then you encounter this nightmare fodder and realize that your hopes for consuming more nerd food were just fed a giant heaping of uncertainty. Maybe you won’t escape the demons with tentacles and the moon-faced characters with serpents extruding from their mouths in some medieval old village where plague-addled whores drag their Jack The Ripper-torn limbs through shit-clogged streets offering you favors.

Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

This house was made of gingerbread, I swear.

Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

Somehow I fail to see this as being quite as idyllic as I might have hoped for, as where are the gun-toting open-carry enthusiasts strolling about while some guys wearing their colors were set up at a bench selling meth. Oh yeah, this isn’t Dallas, Texas.

Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

Why is it that civility goes hand-in-hand with a scene like this and the idea of a trailer park being down the hill is anathema to me wanting to be here? Come to think about it, have I ever seen a trailer park in Germany?

Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

This fairytale village is not really a fairytale place at all but is simply a place with a ton of history where average, everyday, common people live and work. It is those of us who visit quaint and beautiful places that label them and give them greater value than the places we come from that might be devoid of character and community.

Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

You might see something like this in the Hamptons of New York with an eight-figure price tag, but you’d never see this on the south side of Cincinnati. Why is it that Europeans appear to care more about the quality of life that can be had in places that maintain the environment compared to their counterparts in North America?

Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

You will not find any neon in Rothenburg or any garish billboards. There is nobody standing somewhere spinning signs to attract passersby who might be enticed by a homeless person dancing in the sun while flipping the sign around like a cheerleader in 10th grade twirling a baton. Sure, the history of this village coats everything here, including the air, while the closest thing we have in the States is Colonial Williamsburg, but Rothenburg is not an isolated place. There are many quaint and beautiful villages dotted across the European landscape. Back home, I can’t help but think we have a throw-away history where those beautiful small towns across Texas with great squares and incredible historic city halls are left to decay and give way to burgeoning outlet stores and big-box franchises that replace the old with little concern to what is lost. These signs in Rothenburg are enchanting due to their uniqueness; they are not thrown away for the sake of modernity.

Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

If you’ve ever seen a travel brochure for Germany, you’ve seen a much better photograph of this exact scene than what I was able to photograph today. Heck, if you’ve seen a travel brochure, you’re likely old like me and simply wish that someday you, too, can go stand in places that held so much curiosity when you were a kid.

Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

Come to think of it, my curiosity is still that of my childhood. I want to look into the window on the left, walk on this part of the wall at night while carrying a lantern, and investigate what treasures are hidden in the attics long abandoned in some of these homes. What I don’t want to happen is to run into Armin Meiwes up an alley here. Who was Armin, you must surely be asking? He was the guy who ate a dick right here in this village. I’ll bet a dollar Rothenburg hates this connection to their beautiful little hamlet, but that’s just the way it goes when you cultivate an environment of dick eaters among the locals. I’ve heard that 2001 was a good year for cannibalism, but I can’t affirm that from any kind of first-hand experience. Armin is still in prison, and there was a documentary about him, should anyone have a greater curiosity about what dick tastes like.

Edit on April 2, 2021: Rather than hide my stupidity, I have to confess that Rothenburg ob der Tauber is not Rotenburg an der Fulda, where Meiwes was from, so I got the above all wrong. Except for the part where he eats dicks. 

Caroline Wise in Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

Just then, Caroline barks at me to get moving and stop trying to find signs of cannibalism.

Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

A snail riding a winged snail isn’t something you see every day but then what is it when you are on a road trip from America and you find such a thing in some small corner of Europe?

Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

I thought this spiral stairway leading to the upper floors was pretty cool.

Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

Visiting somewhere wouldn’t be complete without us dipping into a church, and this one here called St. James Church will do just fine.

Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

This hand carving of a symbolic boat to heaven is from a partner church down in Tanzania.

Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

The Holy Blood altarpiece carved between 1500 and 1505 by Tilman Riemenschneider kind of makes me think about Til from Rammstein. My wife just groaned when she read that, but probably not as much as she wondered why in the world I had to write about Herr Dr. Armin Meiwes, Dick Eater Esq., above. Oh, and one other thing: right about now, Caroline is intoning Holy Blood in this very particular way that was spoken in Alejandro Jodorowsky’s film Santa Sangre (Holy Blood); trust me, she is.

Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

This altarpiece is just incredible, and at 500 years old, I’m just in awe of how perfect it is five centuries after it was carved with hand tools.

Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

There’s a museum in town, and if you were so lucky to be in Rothenburg on a weekday outside of the main tourism season, you, too, could be in a nice, quiet museum checking out a bunch of cool stuff without feeling crowded.

Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

This is where notes from our time on this particular trip to Europe would have come in handy, or I could spend some time on Google finding what these are, but I kind of like the mystery.

Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

Horn of something with a carving of the hunt. Maybe Caroline can embellish these descriptions with something beyond the obvious.

Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

You know why this is here. Hand-made stuff from some kind of yarn, and my wife’s senses get all perky. I remember way back when how she’d get that way for me, but we were younger then, much younger.

Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

Who thinks that horses need armor, too? Maybe a LARPA will see this and think I’m a total noob.

Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

Holy Baby was probably stolen from some church, maybe not. I took over 100 photos here in the Reichsstadt Museum and while I have another 15 or 20 worthy images I’d like to share, who’s not wondering when this lengthy entry comes to an end?

Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

Come on now, who doesn’t find this amazing? Reflected windows on a yellow wall across from a red wall with bluish-grey hints on the stone street seriously make for some eye candy that begged to be photographed.

Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

And with that, we head for the exit. Hmm, this isn’t the exit. Just where are we in this maze?

Würzburg, Germany

Welcome to Würzburg, the next stop on our jaunt east and back.

Würzburg, Germany

This was quite the jarring transition from a sleepy little village to the 50th largest city as ranked by population in Germany. For comparison, New Orleans in Louisiana is the 50th largest city in America.

Würzburg, Germany

The happy season of sunshine and warmth has returned, and what better way to celebrate that than raising his pagan symbol called the Maypole? There’s not a lot known about the folklore of these Maypoles, but there’s something intriguing about them when you are somewhere that raises them.

Würzburg, Germany

St Mary’s Chapel, or Marienkapelle in German, is right on the main square. For almost 700 years, this church has sat here, though it was heavily damaged during World War II. It is said that there had been a synagogue standing here back on the 21st of April, 1349 before it was flattened almost exactly 664 years ago to the day.

Würzburg, Germany

The 14th-century Gothic style looks good for its age.

Caroline Wise in Würzburg, Germany

How Caroline pulled this face while being attacked by this giant street shrimp, or is it a lobster? I’ll never know. That she’s letting me post her looking so goofy is wonderful, as it certainly makes me laugh.

Würzburg, Germany

Then there was this church from 1065 called the Neumünster or New Munster church.

Würzburg, Germany

You’ve just got to love these baroque churches for the extravagance and crazy detail.

Würzburg, Germany

Just a simple shrine to the Virgin Mary. We have one just like it at home.

Würzburg, Germany

I’m a bit confused by skeletons as decoration for churches as I can’t help but think that death awaits you. While on a certain level, death awaits us all, I was raised to feel that the church uplifted you and helped you celebrate life, but who knows how people saw things 1000 years ago?

Würzburg, Germany

As we bounce from church to church, defiling these places of worship with our unbelieving souls, we wait for the person who might notice our evil atheist auras and toss some holy water on us, but sadly, this never happens. I also don’t really believe we’re evil, and I’d also wager that most visitors to these historic houses of God are tourists just like us. This church here is the St. Kilian Cathedral also known as Würzburger Cathedral.

Würzburg, Germany

If you made it this far in my blog entry, maybe you are wondering if I’ll get serious and share anything really meaningful about observations or history lessons taken from this fourth day of our little road trip: nope. I’m kind of finished writing here and wish I’d not chosen so many damn pictures that I need to write to. Sure, Caroline has said, “Hey, you don’t need to write something under every photo.” but my OCD says, “OH YES, you do!”

Würzburg, Germany

Have you ever stood somewhere like this and wondered how many shades of gray are you actually looking at? Is there a function in Photoshop that can offer this information?

Würzburg, Germany

This is just how I look when I’m contemplating those kinds of questions, seriously, just like this, including the suit of armor and chains.

Würzburg, Germany

This is the Würzburg Residence, and we would have gone in, but there are warnings at the ticket counter of the risk of your head exploding due to the intricate, ornate, even flamboyant nature of the Baroque excesses that exist in this building. Having already visited two gothic and two baroque churches today, we felt this could easily tilt us into ecstatic overload and have put it off to a future visit. If you don’t believe me, just Google “Interior Würzburg Residence.”

Germany

Just a couple of plain trees with a plain old field of grass in front of a plain stand of trees. Soothing simplicity for the baroque strained eyes needing a break.

Germany

More of the above but with water.

Germany

The view of Mondfeld on the Main River. We are traveling west, trying to maximize our sightseeing time.

Germany

And a quick stop in Miltenberg because the gate looks cool, so there might be other cool stuff here, and we’re hungry for some snacky stuff.

Germany

Fairytale-style is normal stuff all over Germany. I think I could spend 15 years just traveling to every small town and village in Europe and forever continue finding little treasures.

Michelstadt, Germany

We left the Main River and continued west as Caroline said that the small town of Michelstadt had fond memories for her, so we went.

Jutta Engelhardt and Caroline Wise in Frankfurt, Germany

This is one of those days that just kept on going where we still had enough time to drop in on Jutta to check on her recovery from the broken hip. She’s doing great and is walking outside with us; seems that she’ll be just fine. I don’t know if I said it anywhere else here during our stay in Europe, but we tried to incentivize my mother-in-law by telling her that if she worked hard on her recovery, we’d have her visit us in America again as soon as she felt fit enough. So on November 2oth, she landed in Denver, Colorado which was the closest non-stop flight I could get her from Frankfurt to somewhere near Phoenix, Arizona, and she and I drove back to Arizona. Jutta stayed with us for 46 days, and sadly, it was her last visit to America as mobility and health had finally determined that it was best for her to stay close to home.

Olbia Pizza in Frankfurt, Germany

With Jutta happy to have seen us and heard briefly about our whirlwind adventure, we went over to our favorite pizza place in the entire universe called Olbia Pizzeria on Glauburgstrasse and shared a pizza.

Spaghetti Ice from Eis Christina in Frankfurt, Germany

Being in our old neighborhood and running out of time in Frankfurt, we had to hit Eis Christina next, for you know what…

Spaghetti Ice from Eis Christina in Frankfurt, Germany

Sweet Jesus. It took 2500 words and a ton of photos to get to this moment where the famous Spaghetti Eis of our favorite ice-cream shop in the entire universe makes an appearance. If we could live on this and not kill ourselves with diabetes and obesity, we’d eat Spaghetti Eis three or four times a day.

I’d like to point out that these kinds of travels are, in some ways, just like eating the yummiest ice cream all the time; they are that incredible.

Prague, Czech Republic

Mr. Robot on the Polish border

Disclaimer: This blog entry wasn’t written until seven years after the trip. It should be noted that this was a huge mistake. Sometimes after writing so much about other days, it happens that at the time directly after the trip or even during, I convince myself that the details are not that important. Years later, these details are that important, and pulling them out of foggy memories is difficult. The photos help and often leave clues, and then Caroline’s memories are usually far clearer than mine. With that said, here goes.

Wow, we have visited Poland twice on this trip, that’s winning. What is this knitted robot doing in the picture, you ask? Meet Mr. J50 Fiberbot. Caroline clandestinely made this for my 50th birthday while we were in the States and somehow managed to keep it a secret as she smuggled him into Europe without my knowledge. Looking for the right time and place to give me my birthday gift, she decided that Dreiländereck where three borders meet, those being Czechia, Poland, and Germany, would be that spot. If you wonder about the secret code knitted into his body, well, his name holds a clue that relates to my age and the first initial of my name.

Caroline Wise and John Wise on the Czechia Border aka Czech Republic

Two new countries on this trip into Europe, yay. This is our first time visiting the former Czechoslovakia, as it was known during the Cold War. We’re on our way to Prague.

Caroline Wise in Prague, Czechia

Two hours later, we’re in Prague with the car parked for the day and us out on foot. Chimney cake? Heck yeah, we’ll try that.

Prague, Czechia

The main city square is huge, or at least looks that way, packed with so many people. Had we arrived at 6:00 in the morning, I’d bet we could have had the square to ourselves. Going from our drive across the countryside and the relatively small cities we visited yesterday after Dresden makes transitioning to the megalopolis of Prague a bit taxing. The best thing to do is head for an exit of the square and catch our breath.

Prague, Czechia

The corner we aimed for happens to be an even busier area of the square as it’s the home of the Prague Astronomical Clock. This relic, and big draw of visitors, was built back in 1410.

Prague Astronomical Clock in Prague, Czechia

Here’s a better view of the clock, but there was no way we could wait around to see what it was going to do as it was wall-to-wall people and difficult enough just to get past them all. Maybe on a subsequent visit, we’ll see this 600-year-old gem do its work

Prague, Czechia

This is more my speed of how to visit a city. I grew up in L.A., and before I could drive, I’d take the bus downtown and out to Hollywood, but I’d do that when my parents and everyone else were working so I could wander when things weren’t too crowded.

Later, when I was living in Europe, I’d go to Paris, Amsterdam, Brussels, and Munich outside of the tourist season. I’d arrive early before things opened while the bakers were still tending their ovens. I’ve always had a need to see places as they might have looked before the age of tourism. The ugliness from those of us who clutter around iconic landmarks and make visiting impossible for locals except on rainy days in the winter is an abomination, albeit an important financial one that I understand, but for my selfish needs, I want to see the quiet city.

Prague, Czechia

On busy streets and crowded gatherings, people miss the little things.

Prague, Czechia

At some point, we have to rejoin the stream.

Prague, Czechia

Then, one of the tricks of my version of storytelling is that I try to make it appear that we are alone in our universe. In so many ways, we are alone as nobody else can be in our heads as we move through the environment, and if I’m patient, I find that others will notice I’m trying to capture a particular photo and will give me a second to snap it.

We are on the Charles Bridge that crosses the Vltava River. Built starting at 5:31 a.m. on 9 July 1357, we are now looking at a replica statue of what was once standing here as the originals have been moved to a museum to stop further environmental harm and vandalism.

Prague, Czechia

Next, I simply pay attention to the pulse and flow of people, and sometimes I can time when the next wave of people who passed through an intersection is still behind me or out front, and again, if I’m patient, I might capture a moment where things appear normal. The truth is that Prague is a madhouse of crowds.

Prague, Czechia

But why then visit big cities if it’s obvious that I don’t enjoy large crowds? History is usually the answer and the witnessing of culture as it’s happening plays a large role too. Prague, for me, holds special appeal due to its relationship to Kafka and ideas of Bohemia, and it is where a famous defenestration took place back in 1618, catapulting Europe into the 30 Years War.

Go back two days in my blog to our visit to Eisenach and the Wartburg; it was Martin Luther’s translation of the bible and the region’s move to Protestantism that triggered these fateful events. The Habsburgs were the end of the line of leadership in the Holy Roman Empire, and although it was Germany and Otto The Great that got things started back in the year 962, it was a deeply Catholic endeavor. Protestantism was a threat to the Empire and to Habsburg’s rule, it was felt. The King of Bohemia was giving his subjects in Prague more rights as Protestants, which angered the Habsburgs, who saw the king as dangerous. Their delegation to Prague was tossed out of the windows of Prague Castle in the “Third Defenestration of Prague,” which kicked off this war I keep referring to.

Prague, Czechia

What we are seeing in Europe from 1521 through the middle of the 17th century is the fight for religious freedom in so many ways. In 1534, as King Henry VIII broke out of Catholic rule under Rome and established the Church of England, it was still an authoritarian branch of religion that some in the population resented. For us Americans, history gets messy at this time, but it’s actually all quite clear.

In 1607, the first Colonists arrived on the shores of North America; 13 years later, in 1620, the Pilgrims landed. These Pilgrims were Puritans based on Protestant doctrine. They wanted a pure, non-corrupt form of religion that adhered strictly to the bible; they were fundamentalists. It would be another 156 years before Thomas Jefferson wrote the Declaration of Independence, and while Jefferson was Christian, he was not an Orthodox Christian. Today in America, we are a confused people who believe our country is a bastion of Christianity when the founding fathers wanted to ensure that no one would rule with an imposed religion.

The point here is that Europe was exploring the boundaries of how religion and public life intersected and that it wasn’t a purely American thing from people exploring freedom and liberty. Even the Habsburgs, by the time of Maria Theresa in the mid-18th century, were seeing the need for change, but it was difficult to divorce entrenched traditions from the speed of change that was upon humanity. Then, by the beginning of World War I, with the assassination of Franz Ferdinand, the Habsburgs, and Catholicism as a body of rule would finally come to an end. Enlightenment, industrialization, and communication were changing our world.

Prague, Czechia

Religion, though, has kept its toeholds in the organization of culture, keeping its stream well crowded with the devout enjoying the community of God. For me, these churches hold the same fascination as the Christians visiting a pyramid; they are not there to worship the King of the Gods known as Ra. They go to the pyramids for an anthropological look at history, to see how others before them related to their world. That’s what churches are to me. This is the Church of Saint Nicholas, yeah, him again.

Prague, Czechia

Lucky for me, people are still practicing their belief in Christianity as it pays the bills to keep these temples to God from crumbling. Or maybe that equation is broken and crumbling as it cost us 100 Koruna to enter but $4 isn’t much to part with to see such a spectacular place.

Prague, Czechia

For all the treasure bestowed upon churches and the clergy by the laity, one might think God would be impressed by the grandeur we honor him with. Instead, he rules on high, possibly laughing at how these structures, meant to show our faith, are really nothing more than the coolest offices ever to those who work the altar and allow the hoi polloi to grovel at the feet of power and count their blessings that they are not cuffed and beholden to the devil. Power is an amorphous thing that changes hands all the time, not by dictums from God but from the egos of men.

Prague, Czechia

When the average person ekes out a meager living, how could they not be in awe and bow before the power of the God these treasures are said to represent? While religious authorities were building these Baroque, Gothic, and Romantic structures, how could anyone comprehend the amount of gold on display? Was it pure gold or gold leaf? Who could know as it represented a reality incomprehensible to the person standing in awe and fear that God had the power to love or damn their soul? With God speaking through the priest, bishop, cardinal, or other figureheads of whichever branch we were being subservient to, we would have to be careful not to earn the wrath of anyone who could exercise the power of dominion upon our meekness.

Prague, Czechia

These are the visions only known to the holiest who have been entrusted to allow you the fleeting glimpses into the Kingdom of Heaven. An altar is a powerful place featuring men of consummate knowledge of all things spiritual; who else would be entrusted to stand before the flock of God under this cascade of gold and treasure and inform the wicked on the virtues of saving one’s soul? And so we used the primitive minds of an uneducated population to imprison themselves in subservience to the state and clergy, as these are the powers that hold control of your body and soul. Sure, we are sheep and yes, man killed God but the outcome was that it allowed the powerful to thrust their own egos into the lofty heavens above making themselves and their wealth the gods of the people of Earth.

Prague, Czechia

This theater of the benevolent Bishop trusted by angelic babies, offering his blessing to the demon about to encounter its fate, extolls the wisdom of ages that there are those who have gained the trust of those above who do the work of Kings and Gods. We should be so happy to be the infant dancing at his feet. And the play goes on.

Prague, Czechia

So look above you into your own mind and into your own soul. Those other people who are the controllers and holders of power were taught that very lesson. They understand that the meek are afraid of their own shadow and won’t act in their own best interest unless they can appear powerful to those of lesser means in their immediate vicinity. We must recognize that it is within each and every one of us to find ourselves in charge of our own destiny, but that will always require the investment in skills that exceed those we had yesterday.

Prague, Czechia

Sure, I could wax on and on about architecture, food, and beer, but that’s not why we are here. I can hear some guffawing right now about the food, considering how there always seems to be a mention of it, but this is a key element of the culture in my book. The architecture is already essentially covered, as I typically include enough photos for someone to glean an idea of what things look like. I suppose one of my main goals is to try and inspire others to go into destinations with more intention to understand how a place integrates with our world and our past than to land somewhere with nothing more than a need to grab selfies and bragging rights that they’ve been there, done that.

Prague, Czechia

There’s a funicular that heads to the top of Petřín Hill, where we’ll visit Prague Castle to see for ourselves the window of defenestration. Maybe you can already guess that there were too many people in the queue to take the easy way up the hill, plus there’s always a lot more to see by hoofing it on foot.

Caroline Wise in Prague, Czechia

Seriously, it didn’t look that high from the bridge.

Prague, Czechia

We took one glance at the lines to enter the castle and knew we’d have to come back another day. St. Vitus Cathedral, though, could be visited after passing through the main entrance area of Prague Castle.

Prague, Czechia

Begun in 1344 it would be another 600 years before the largest cathedral in the Czech Republic would be finished. Not until 1929 was St. Vitus considered complete.

Prague, Czechia

I don’t know what we were thinking when we thought we could drop in and out of Prague and that half a day in the city would be adequate. In part, I don’t believe we understood that this was the 13th largest city in Europe and that there’s so much to see. It was obvious that we were, in effect, wasting our time as we’d never experienced a fraction of Prague, so we de-escalated our pace and set our sights on meandering back to the car to get back over to Germany before it was very late.

Prague, Czechia

The Gothic Cathedral of St. Vitus is just as interesting to us as the baroque Church of St. Nicholas that we visited earlier, and no, I won’t use this as a transition to writing about the facade of religion. However, I should be careful about what I convey when I use the word facade. What I meant is, in some way, paraphrasing what Nietzsche said with the famous quote, “God is dead,” it is not that I see no need for a belief system relying on deities; it’s just the ugly corruption of so many people entrenched with organized religion whose livelihoods depend on subservience, fear, and outright ignorance. If God is alive in your heart, express that joy by doing what is right for your family, community, state, country, and Earth, but building monuments and affording people lavish lifestyles who claim to interpret God on your behalf is bullshit.

Prague, Czechia

What a fine and beautiful cathedral sitting on a hill surrounded by a castle going on 700 years old. Wish I could say that of myself 650 years into the future.

Prague, Czechia

The Loreta Shrine is being marked here as a place we must return to. Truth is, we need to dedicate at least three full days here in Prague, anything less and we’ll feel cheated.

Prague, Czechia

Before taking it from the shelf of the small shop we bought it at, here’s the tea cup Caroline knew she had to have as our reminder to return to this great city.

Prague, Czechia

The group is called Dei Gratia, and now I wish we’d have thrown them the 10 Euros for the CD.

Prague, Czechia

Prague Castle and St. Vitus Cathedral as seen from the Charles Bridge over the Vltava River. We are on our way out.

Caroline Wise in Prague, Czechia

But first, some food and beer.

Prague, Czechia

The guys brought up the car while Caroline finished her beer. Good day for a drive. I think you’d agree.

Pilsen, Czechia

So, getting out of Prague when you don’t read the language, there’s nothing that looks slightly familiar and the signage is poor is a challenge. You just point the car west and try to maintain that general direction, figuring sooner or later you’ll find the main artery – we did. We had left Prague behind us and were well on our way to the German border when had one last stop. Neither of us saw this coming and were in a bit of disbelief when we saw it. The Pilsner Urquell Brewery in the town of Pilsen. Caroline tells me that she knew it all along and that it was obvious that “Pilsner” had to come from someplace by that name. I’d like to mock her and say, “Sure, but I don’t know of anyplace called Budweiser!” but I do know that the original called Budvar is from Budějovice here in the Czech Republic, so I can’t play that. Wow, we’re at the place that invented Pilsner.

Pilsen, Czechia

I wonder if we can get a beer here at 5:30 p.m. on a Tuesday? Sure enough, Caroline can anyway, you might remember that I don’t drink. In their drinking hall, a small Oom-pah-pah band was playing, which only added to the atmosphere. This was our introduction to the Czech Republic. The remaining few hours of the day were spent driving over to Rothenburg ob der Tauber, which we’ll visit tomorrow before heading back to Frankfurt.

Dresden to Görlitz, Germany

Dresden, Germany

Disclaimer: This blog entry wasn’t written until seven years after the trip. It should be noted that this was a huge mistake. Sometimes after writing so much about other days, it happens that at the time directly after the trip or even during, I convince myself that the details are not that important. Years later, these details are that important, and pulling them out of foggy memories is difficult. The photos help and often leave clues, and then Caroline’s memories are usually far clearer than mine. With that said, here goes.

The Dresden Frauenkirche, or Church of Our Lady, is a Lutheran place of worship. Hence, the statue of Martin Luther standing in front of it. Back in 1995, when Caroline and I were moving to the States from Germany, reconstruction of the Frauenkirche had just begun. For fifty years after World War II, it sat as a sad ruin in total destruction. Even this statue of Martin Luther was toppled in the mayhem that devastated Dresden, but it survived and was repaired long before the church. Only eight years ago, the reconstructed building was once again standing in the glory of its best days. This being a Protestant church, they are open when it suits them, so as we wait for a visit to this significant sight, we’re off to the Catholic church, which is almost always open.

Dresden, Germany

This is the Fürstenzug mural featuring a procession of the rulers of Saxony. A week ago, when Caroline and I were up north near the Wattenmeer, she told me the story of the Frisians of Saxony and how, back in the 5th century AD, they inhabited parts of Britain after Rome fell. With their Celtic roots now merged with some German ancestry, things would remain relatively calm for almost 600 years until the Norman Conquest pumped England and the evolving English language full of French. As the British Empire rose, I don’t think we can divorce the influence of Rome, Germany, and France on this little island nation and realize that the beginning of multiculturalism is quite old and didn’t just arrive with late 20th-century liberalism. Back to the Fürstenzug that we are walking along, originally, this “Procession of Princes” was painted between 1871 and 1876 to celebrate the 800th anniversary of the Wettin Dynasty. One hundred years ago, the painting was replaced with 23,000 pieces of porcelain, making this 335-foot-long mural the largest porcelain artwork in the world.

Dresden, Germany

This is part of the Katholische Hofkirche or Dresden Cathedral but first, a detour to something that just caught my eye.

Dresden, Germany

These are the guards of the Georges Gate or Georgentor. Early Techno Viking, if you ask me. This is on the Schlossplatz or Palace Square, which we are walking through to get to the Catholic Church.

Dresden, Germany

The Dresden Cathedral is not a very ostentatious affair.

Dresden, Germany

Sadly, we didn’t visit the crypt. We didn’t know at the time that the majority of the Wettin family is buried here along with the heart of King Augustus II,  also known as Frederick Augustus I the Elector of Saxony, also popularly known as Augustus the Strong, also known as the Imperial Vicar and elected King of Poland, also known as the Grand Duke of Lithuania but even with all those titles he never had a sausage or sandwich named after him. Then again, the 4th Earl of Sandwich is buried in some rinky-dink place in a corner of England nobody has ever heard of, while King Augustus has his heart buried in a Cathedral, and his body rests in Wawel Cathedral in Kraków, Poland.

Dresden, Germany

One of the towers of Dresden Castle. Our visit doesn’t include a tour of the museum, as this mini-four-day excursion is all about quantity equaling quality and not lingering for the sake of luxury. We are happy with this overall impression of the city instead of immersion. I should also admit that I have a bit of reluctance even being in Dresden as after reunification in 1990, right-wing extremists from Rostock, Halle, Magdeburg, and Dresden were creating disturbances that made me leery of ever visiting these places. As I walk through Dresden, I can’t help but be aware that I’m an American and that, for some people who live here, that is as bad as being from any of the other countries they loathe.

The Semperoper on Theaterplatz is an opera house Caroline and I would love to visit one day. As I’m writing this, all opera houses around the earth are closed to visitors due to the Covid-19 pandemic. Even putting on events that can be live-streamed is impossible as the crowding of the stage and orchestra pit would create precarious situations for the health of the actors and musicians.

I can’t decide which way we should go, so after looking at the opera, we turned our attention back to the Dresden Castle before finally moving over the grounds of the Zwinger.

Augustus the Strong needed a park with fountains to hang out in back in the day of managing so much land and carrying so many titles, so he built the Zwinger. Not all of it, as he ran out of money before he could realize all of his dreams, but lucky for us, at some point, the area was turned into gardens and a museum.

Following the bombing of Dresden during World War II, everything was touched in this city by destruction; nothing was left unscathed. Visiting Dresden today, you’d never know that nearly 70 years ago, this city could have been scrapped it was in such bad shape. The attention to detail and effort to spend the money required to put not just Dresden back together but every major German city across the landscape attest to what an effort can be made to modernize a country.

Who doesn’t love Baroque architecture? I could have lingered all day, but this wasn’t that kind of trip.

Earlier, we walked past the Fürstenzug, a.k.a. Procession of Princes; this is the other side and part of the old stable connected to Dresden Castle. In the background, you can see the steeple of the Cathedral, which might make you wonder why there’s a Catholic church in a Protestant city. Back in the day, when France was the seat of culture and intellect, the French royalty remained steadfast in their Catholicism, and so did those who needed to be close to power. While the Frauenkirche was under construction, the need to have a place of worship for the Catholics was also recognized and so Augustus III commissioned this Cathedral that was connected directly to his home.

Speaking of the Frauenkirche, here we are in its magnificent interior. This photo does no justice to the spectacular detail and beauty found in this church. It really is something one should see with their own eyes. By the way, notice the organ pipes? Those really are above the altar, which I’m trying to remember if I’ve ever seen this orientation in quite the same way as my memory says the organ is always over the entry in the back of the church. Another thing about the altar: imagine a peasant stepping up to the altar to receive the Eucharist; how would they not have felt they were in the presence of God himself, when in their normal lives, things may have been a grim struggle?

Nothing like a bunch of white and gold with chambers within chambers to draw the mind’s eye above into bright, lofty thoughts.

For those who might be inclined, and let me say I was surprised there were so few of us, you can make your way up the dome on this ramp, and while the view into the church itself is a bit cramped, you will be rewarded when you reach close to the top with the opportunity to step outside and see the next photo.

Dresden, Germany

That is the River Elbe in front of us, as seen from the Frauenkirche here in Dresden, Germany. This was also the end of our time in this city as we’d decided to head over to Poland as neither of us had ever been there.

Bautzen, Germany

So much for getting over to Poland, as we are sidetracked in Bautzen. When in America, one doesn’t just stumble across Washington D.C., New York City, or Chicago to be drawn in by the skyline, and when driving past Scottsbluff, Nebraska, or Ardmore, Oklahoma, it isn’t likely that storage units will capture your curiosity, but as you approach a village in Europe, there’s too often something or other on the horizon that begs you to detour and come see what’s what. Just Google “Skyline Bautzen,” and you’ll see what I mean.

After parking near the Cathedral of St. Peter, as everyone knows that the cathedrals represent the center of the old town, we had to step inside.

Bautzen, Germany

Echoes of prayer and song with organ and choir can be heard between the shadows as the sun falls into the nave warming the memories of the parishioners who have once sat upon these pews.

Bautzen, Germany

The reward for being flexible is finding the opportunity to be delighted. I’d imagine that to the people that live on this street, there’s nothing special about this particular street, but to my American eyes, the yellow and red paint, the wrought iron lights, the curve in the street paved with stones, and a sidewalk cut of a different color stone are all notable qualities when contrasted with the country I’m from where asphalt and cement pave our paths and houses are mostly generic affairs built to last maybe 50 years, not 500 years.

Bautzen, Germany

Small corners with gated passages to places I won’t have the chance to visit create mystery as I try to imagine what is further up the stairs.

Bautzen, Germany

These are the ruins of the St. Nicholas Church. That’s right, Saint Nicholas, who some people know as Santa Claus. Just who was this Santa Claus guy who was originally known as Nicholas from Patara? Patara is now known as Demre in Turkey, but around 300 years after Christ, the town was Greek. The story goes that under the Roman Emperor Diocletian, who was busy prosecuting Christians, Bishop Nicholas fell into the clutches of prison, and upon being released, he attended the Council of Nicaea in A.D. 325, which your memory might serve you that this event was the First Ecumenical Council calling to preserve the unity of the church that was being threatened by various claims about the nature of Jesus Christ.

Eighteen years later, on 6 December 343, Nicholas died and turned into “manna,” or pure water, which proved he was a saint, but that wasn’t all. Stories came to life about the spirit of Nicholas being the protector of children and helper of those in need. Like all good tales, one thing leads to another, and pretty soon, you have a fat bearded white guy from the North Pole working with elves to bring loot on the 25th of December. WTF? A Greek Bishop under Roman dominion living on the coast of the Mediterranean hooks up with shape-shifting characters out of Norse mythology to raid electronics manufacturers in order to give children Playstations. Yeah, that’s the kind of people we are. But wait, we’re not done yet. Fast forward 1,100 years to 1450, and some people in the Sorbian village of Bautzen built a temple in honor of Santa Claus who had lived 1,800 miles south in Asia Minor because why? Well, that’s obvious: they were poor people who needed help, except then in 1619, with World War Zero raging (30 Years War, 1618-48), the church was razed, never to be rebuilt, because who needs a church dedicated to a myth that didn’t help anyone in Bautzen?

Bautzen, Germany

The astute reader picked up on me dropping “Sorbian village” into the conversation. I, too, wondered after Caroline and I arrived in Bautzen, “What is this Sorbian thing? I thought this was Germany?” Nothing is ever that easy in Germany, especially when it comes to how the country took shape, how language works here, and bread recipes. Without getting too deep into this ridiculously long blog entry that has 50 photos and a ton of words that I’m certain most people won’t even skim as they glide down the photos, thinking, why is this person wasting so much bandwidth on all these pictures that have meaning to me and just why did Google even suggest this page for what I was looking for? Anyway, the Sorbs are the people who gave themselves that name as they were ethnically Lusatians and Wends, not Germans. This West Slavic group is closer in identity to the Polish, Kashubian, Czech, and Slovak people, and while the Sorbian language is now a minority language in Germany, it’s still alive, such as right here in Bautzen.

Bautzen, Germany

I probably should have broken some of those paragraphs I’ve already written into smaller ones so I’d have something meaningful, historic, and important here, but I’ve got nothing. I did like the curve of the street, the wall, and how the house curves around the corner, I thought this was really cool. About the house on the right, does anyone else see the eyes on the roof and a mouth where the balcony should be?

Bautzen, Germany

I thought about removing this photo, though originally I liked it enough to have included it, but if I remove it, I have to go back and change where I wrote about this entry having 50 photos.

Bautzen, Germany

Sexy King Frog and his golden sphere must be some kind of Sorbian folktale, or maybe it was just part of a shop’s signage.

Bautzen, Germany

We just earned serious bragging rights as there are many people who can claim to have visited the Leaning Tower of Pisa but few who can say they’ve climbed to the top of the Leaning Tower of Bautzen, a.k.a. Reichenturm? But we did. The tower on the right is the Cathedral St. Peter, and off to its right and out of sight is the St. Nicholas Church. Straight ahead and a bit to the right with the yellow and black tower, that’s City Hall and near where we parked.

Bautzen, Germany

This mustard yellow City Hall building might be the appropriate color as it turns out that Bautzen is famous for its mustard. I wish I’d known this when we were there. But hey, it’s 2020, and Amazon has everything, right? Sure enough, they sell Bautz’ner Senf (mustard) right here in America, and I just got my order in. Time to continue our trek to Poland.

Görlitz, Germany

We thought we were going to Poland, but then the town on the border jumped into view. Welcome to Görlitz. This is the Frauenkirche, which you learned earlier in Dresden translates to Church of Our Lady. Just as the building is simple on the outside, so it is on the inside too. Had I shot at least one nice photo, I might have shared it but 50 photos are already so many. I think I’ve become my grandfather with his slideshows from his own travels at home back in the late 60s and early 70s.

Görlitz, Germany

If it’s called Dicker Turm, I’m going because a part of me is still 14 years old. Dicker Turm translates to Fat Tower, not Giant Penis. We should have gone up the 700-year-old 180 steps for a look around Görlitz and maybe even into Poland, but we were pressed for time on another side, too; Caroline is supposed to be getting some work done. This month in Germany began due to Jutta (my mother-in-law) breaking her hip. Part of the reason for so much time being able to be spent here is that Caroline could work remotely, and she still needs to get to that.

Görlitz, Germany

Oh damn, another church. We are suckers for churches and cannot turn away from one when we spot one. Just a quick look, we say, and then we find ourselves lost for even more time. This particular church is the Dreifaltigkeitskirche or Holy Trinity Church.

Görlitz, Germany

Older than the Fat Tower, this church was built between 1234 and 1245.

Görlitz, Germany

The altar in this church is spectacular, and because this overview lacks so much detail, I’m posting a closeup of the top of the altarpiece below.

Görlitz, Germany

I should have had my 70-200mm lens with me to capture the wings of the babies, but sometimes, when traveling, we have to opt for convenience over perfection.

Görlitz, Germany

Georgsbrunnen, or Fountain of St. George in the Altstadt, was just a momentary stop on our way through the “Old Town” doing some window shopping. Maybe we’d find a yarn store?

Görlitz, Germany

No yarn store but a gift store featuring Polish pottery from Bolesławiec. We left with a bowl that Caroline uses at least a couple of times a week. One of our favorite souvenirs ever.

Görlitz, Germany

We’re not the only ones to love the vibe here in Görlitz, as Wes Anderson was just here last month filming his new movie The Grand Budapest Hotel.

Görlitz, Germany

What is it about the quietest streets that hold some of the most appeal? I think that without people, I can imagine exactly what the place looked and felt like a couple of hundred years ago.

Trabi in Görlitz, Germany

With the Trabi on the road, I can almost picture it being 1967 in the Deutsche Democratic Republic. Here’s the famous Trabant 601 stinking up the street.

Görlitz, Germany

God rays, how appropriate just before entering another church.

Görlitz, Germany

This is the Sts. Peter and Paul Church, and due to our free time winding down, we must run after the briefest of visits.

Looking towards Zgorzelec, Poland

We are looking for Germany into Poland.

Piwnica Staromiejska in Zgorzelec, Poland

Little did we know it when I snapped this photo, but this is Piwnica Staromiejska, which is a restaurant on the Lusatian Neisse River. That’s right, earlier in Bautzen, we had just learned about Sorbians and their background, and here’s the river that separates Poland and Germany, and it’s called the Lusatian Neisse.

Caroline Wise and John Wise in Zgorzelec, Poland

Needed the obligatory selfie in front of the Poland border marker, as one never knows if we’ll be out this way again. Poked around a little bit, but this side of the river didn’t look like a lot of history was on display, as maybe this was the old suburbs of the town center. Long ago, the two sides of the river were the same town, but as war and new state lines created divisions, the Polish side was named Zgorzelec.

Piwnica Staromiejska in Zgorzelec, Poland

Walking by the tower while we were on the bridge we saw that Piwnica Staromiejska had a sign out showing food and drink are available. This would be perfect for us to sit down for me to write a while and for Caroline to get caught up on work. It was a bit later in the day but still a good time for a late lunch, so we ordered a beer for Caroline, but our server interpreted it as a beer for each of us. I don’t drink, and we didn’t want to send it back as I insisted on ordering in my poor German instead of letting Caroline order, so Caroline had two beers while she worked. After a short wait, our food arrived: a shared plate of bacon and boiled potatoes with some carrot and cabbage salad.

Piwnica Staromiejska in Zgorzelec, Poland

Always room for a dessert especially something with orange and almond. We shared both dishes to ensure we’d have some appetite later when we found a hotel.

Ostritz, Germany

We are passing through Ostritz, Germany, on our way towards Czechia, also referred to as the Czech Republic. Where Bautzen and Görlitz have obviously benefited from reconstruction Euros, Ostritz has been left in the dark and is decaying.

Ostritz, Germany

Not to say there’s not a lot of character here and maybe someday others will move in to start renovations.

Ostritz, Germany

Five years after our visit, Ostritz gained international attention when it hosted a Neo-Nazi music festival. I’d guess they did so in order to bring some money into town, and who knows, maybe the old inhabitants miss the days of oppression, dictators, national socialism, or communism. Luckily for us, we didn’t run into a single skinhead.

Sunset on the road to Zittau, Germany

After leaving Ostritz, it was only another 20km to Zittau, and while we would have liked to drive all the way to Prague tonight, we weren’t sure about language problems, finding inexpensive lodging, or even navigating Czechia’s roads. While we found a room at the Black Bear Hotel (Schwarzer Bär), there weren’t a lot of dinner options, so we dined at the hotel’s restaurant. Dinner was okay, but breakfast the next day was where the wow factor came in. Two days into our little road trip and it already feels like we’ve been out for a week or two.

Eisenach to Weimar, Germany

Backhaus am Dalberg in Fulda, Germany

Disclaimer: This blog entry wasn’t written until seven years after the trip. It should be noted that this was a huge mistake. Sometimes after writing so much about other days, it happens that at the time directly after the trip or even during, I convince myself that the details are not that important. Years later, these details are that important, and pulling them out of foggy memories is difficult. The photos help and often leave clues, and then Caroline’s memories are usually far clearer than mine. With that said, here goes.

Today was the day that we headed out of Frankfurt for a spontaneous, much-needed road trip that would take us someplace else. Up the road from Fulda is Eisenach, which at one time had been part of East Germany; as Caroline nor I had ever been there, it seemed like a great starting point. Like all road trips, we do our best to get out early, and this one was no exception. An hour down the road it was time for breakfast, and so we grabbed some random cafe. Wempen Backhaus am Dalberg in Fulda was the perfect place. This breakfast came to define a memory of perfection that’s never been far from our minds. While we’d already been in Germany 18 days by now, this breakfast extravaganza struck a chord that is resonating seven years later as I write this.

Backhaus am Dalberg in Fulda, Germany

On intervening vacations in Europe, we’ve not made it back to Fulda, but the place will hopefully draw us back for a return at least once more in our lifetimes. We didn’t need much convincing that if the rest of our meal was so amazing that their creampuffs would probably be delectable too, we weren’t wrong. I should point out that Backhaus am Dalberg is not in a high-end shopping area, a wealthy neighborhood, or is in any way set up to tease our expectations with its exclusiveness. It was a cafe and did its work incredibly. While relatively common across Germany, these levels of attention to detail are rare in America unless you are in Santa Monica, California, Bellevue, Washington, New York City, or out on Cape Cod.

Caroline Wise in Eisenach, Germany

Once arrived in Eisenach, we had just barely parked the car when we spotted a woman in garb from another age, and can we believe our eyes? She’s spinning fiber! While Caroline’s sister Stephanie is an avid knitter, she doesn’t spin or weave, so this is the first German my wife has ever met who knows how to spin fiber to make yarn. That deserved a photo to mark the occasion.

Eisenach, Germany

St. George’s Church on the Marktplatz is known in German as Georgenkirche and was originally built in the 12th century. Martin Luther held a sermon right here back on 2 May 1521, and 165 years later on 23 March 1685, Johann Sebastian Bach was baptized in this very church.

Eisenach, Germany

Both of these events played key roles in why we are in Eisenach today. Around the corner is a Bach Museum, and just a few miles up the road from there is the Wartburg, where Martin Luther made history. Seeing we aren’t in a hurry today and plan on being out on the road for four days, we are taking our time to wander a bit. By the way, that fountain here on the side of the church was designed back in 1549.

Eisenach, Germany

On our way over to Bachhaus (Bach House), I couldn’t help but want to photograph every Fachwerkhaus I spotted. In America, we refer to this style of architecture as a half-timbered house.

Bach Statue in Eisenach, Germany

Outside the Bach House, where a court area features this statue, we were trying to go slow and contain our excitement, but come on, this is Bach, and in some way, it is like visiting Disneyland for nerds. At one point, it was thought this was where Johann Sebastian Bach was born, but proof of that has never been found, so while it could be proven that he lived here for a time, that will suffice for it to act as the museum that highlights his life here in Eisenach during the period of the late 17th century into the early 18th.

Bach's House in Eisenach, Germany

Just minutes after paying our admission, we were told to hurry over to a nearby room where a demonstration of some of Bach’s music would be performed on historic instruments that would have been identical to those available to the composer in his day. How does one explain how amazing it is to hear the music of Bach on instruments that he may have actually played almost 300 years ago? The exhibits are much of what one would expect when visiting a home setup to give impressions of the age, but other than the actual historical pieces; it was the music shop after the performance that really had our attention. I think we left with between 8 and 10 CDs of Bach’s music.

Caroline Wise in Eisenach, Germany

After that kind of excitement, Caroline needed something to calm her geek factor down, and nothing does that, like a nice lukewarm bottle of Black Ass beer. Oh, you don’t read German and can’t translate Schwarzer Esel? Well, I just did that for you, and the photo is proof that my wife guzzled a bottle of Black Ass on the streets of Eisenach. I think Martin Luther might have rolled over in his grave at my description of these shenanigans in this important city.

Wartburg in Eisenach, Germany

We drove up the hill a bit and parked in the forest with everyone else. The vendor selling Thüringer Rostbratwurst almost pulled us in for the grilling sausages, but he had a good line going, and we were hoofing it up the mountain, so we’d wait till later for a snack. There’s something not so great about our approach in the forest: we never were able to gain an overview of the castle we were approaching. This is the Wartburg, and like a broken record, I can’t downplay the historical importance of this fortress on the mountaintop. The Wartburg served as the hiding place for Martin Luther from May 1521 to March 1522 and is where, over a 10-week period, he translated the bible from Greek to German.

Wartburg in Eisenach, Germany

Martin Luther was hiding here after receiving ex-communication from Pope Leo X and not recanting during the Diet of Worms his Ninety-five Theses or Disputation on the Power and Efficacy of Indulgences, where he took umbrage with the abuse of power by the clergy. Now a wanted man, it was Frederick the Wise who helped “Junker Jörg” (aka the Knight George) remain in hiding. By the way, Frederick and I are in no way related as far as I know, and obviously, Knight George was the nom de guerre of Martin Luther.

Wartburg in Eisenach, Germany

Nearly 500 years ago, Martin Luther, who may have very well stood at this window contemplating his act of rebellion while being clueless that Lutheranism and Protestantism were about to be birthed and the entire balance of power in Europe and the church were going to shift. Within 100 years of this fateful translation, Europe would fall into World War Zero with the 30 Years War.

Wartburg in Eisenach, Germany

Before arriving at the room where Martin Luther worked, we had to pass through a number of rooms in the castle. Normally, this would be very cool, but we’re talking about the guy behind the Reformation, so quite a serious heavyweight in the scheme of history. This is kind of like waiting in line to get on the Pirates of the Caribbean. Yes, it’s quite nice here, but I want to get into the cellar where the drunken pirates are putting on quite the scene.

Wartburg in Eisenach, Germany

About now, I’d imagine my average reader who showed up here for a travel story is wondering what the hell the Ninety-Five Theses and Reformation have to do with getting Thüringer sausages and hanging out at a castle. Maybe you are asking if there’s a corollary between bratwursts and the bible; while I’m sure there is, I don’t really know what it would be off-hand, but there’s certainly a correlation regarding massive shifts in European history and then American history for that matter when it came to the events between 1517 and early 1522. We’re talking a lot of facts and details that no one comes to my blog for; you’d probably prefer I get to those grilled sausages and tell you how yummy they were.

Wartburg in Eisenach, Germany

This is the Festaal or the Banquet Hall, where the royalty of Thüringia would gather to feast on Thüringer Brats and beer. The truth is I don’t know exactly, though I wonder if this was where Devo played back on June 13, 1980, when this was still Communist East Germany?

Update: it’s been a few years since I wrote this, and the Wikipedia article still claims that Devo played here, but with further research, I learned that Devo actually played the Wartburg in Wiesbaden, West Germany, just outside of Frankfurt.

Wartburg in Eisenach, Germany

One more bit of history for you: the Wartburg is the setting for Richard Wagner’s opera Tannhäuser. Legend has it that the Sängerkrieg, or Minstrels’ Contest, was performed here back in 1206 to 1207, which Wagner based his opera on. Now, don’t forget to post a comment here after you go have a listen to Tannhäuser and thank me, though I really enjoy Tristan and Isolde a lot too. Also, consider that back in 1618 to 1648, the 30 Years War was going on, and while this castle was still standing, it was doing poorly but not as bad as the population below when, between 1347 and 1351, the Black Plague was decimating Europe. Did I forget to tell you that Goethe once stayed here?  He was considering turning the Wartburg into an art museum, but when 100s of students met here in 1817 to proclaim their desire for a national state with a constitution and laying the groundwork for the 1848 revolution, he lost interest.

Caroline Wise at the Wartburg in Eisenach, Germany

This is the room, it is claimed, where Martin Luther translated the bible and changed history forever. If I have my history right, the wall over by the heater is where Martin Luther saw the devil and threw his inkpot at him. The resulting stain remained through much of history, but slowly but surely, souvenir hunters scraped a gaping hole in the wall as they tried collecting their personal mementos. No matter the specifics, we are in proximity to the locations where momentous events were taking place, and so if we do nothing more than reflect on these tidbits of history we’ve collected over our lifetimes, we can relish the opportunity afforded us to round out the pictures that drift out of space creating knowledge for those interested in collecting it.

Weimar, Germany

Weimar, the place of legend. Sadly, we are here late in the day and will basically just pass through. As this is a spontaneous road trip without known destinations and our desire to shove as many sights into our heads as possible before returning to America in 9 days, we will stay on the move with the hope that our little orientation side trips while in Europe will lead to a return to pick up on those sights we miss due to our relative hurry.

Weimar, Germany

For over 1000 years, the city of Weimar has been here and is probably most famous for lending its name to post-World War I Germany – the Weimar Republic. Germany’s first democratic constitution was signed here, thus creating the first German republic.

Also very important, Weimar’s contribution to the German Enlightenment started back in the 18th century. People like Johann Gottfried Herder, who was an early leader in the Sturm and Drang movement, along with Friedrich Schiller and  Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, defined Weimar Classicism. After World War I, Walter Gropius, who founded the Bauhaus movement along with Paul Klee and Wassily Kandinsky, gave Weimar its artistic roots.

Weimar, Germany

We are taking it easy on our trek through town but needed to visit a green area and this summer home of Goethe on the Ilm River seemed like a nice destination.

Caroline Wise in the Ilm River in Weimar, Germany

Or maybe our real goal was to find Caroline a place to step into the water so she could take the tradition we started in America into Europe?

Weimar, Germany

The actual graves of Goethe and Schiller are over in the Fürstengruft, which is the ducal burial chapel, but that is now closed for the day. This Goethe family memorial had to represent our visit to the cemetery.

Caroline Wise and John Wise in front of the Nietzsche Archive in Weimar, Germany

All this talk about history and we now get to my personal high point; though being able to visit would have been better, at least we had the chance to stand in front of the Nietzsche Archive. This is where Friedrich Nietzsche spent the last silent years of his life. He was not originally from Weimar, but his sister had a home here, right behind us, and in his years of mental collapse, it was the place where he would be cared for. While Nietzsche has played quite an important role in my life, I can never say with any certainty that I understood a word he wrote. Even the titles of his works are buried with meaning that may have escaped my puny brain. No matter, I still have the utmost respect for his brand of genius and am content that I’ve had the opportunity to be somewhere near where he once was.

Weimar, Germany

So here we are with so many important moments and personalities out of history, but our last monument is one that few people outside of Germany have likely heard of this is the Wildenbruch Monument. Ernst von Wildenbruch was a poet and dramatist. I can’t say I’ve ever heard of even one of his works, but seeing this statue memorializing him in the late-day sun, I couldn’t help but feel he was worthy of making a contribution to this blog.

Caroline Wise having a beer in Weimar, Germany

We’ll stay the night at the Hotel Röhrsdorfer Hof over in Chemnitz but first some dinner in Weimar. It was a beautiful day here in late April, and what’s better than enjoying a beer while sitting outside to enjoy the remaining sunset? It’s funny how, after seven years away from this experience, the flow of photos combined with the exercise of writing along with Caroline and my memories allowed me to put together a not-so-short narrative about the day. On to Dresden.

Hanging Out In Frankfurt

Eschenheimer Tor in Frankfurt, Germany

The train track into the city center from Heddernheim is still on a weekend construction schedule, meaning it only goes so far before we have to transfer to a bus to bypass the traffic snarl. Today’s drop-off point is at Eschenheimer Tor (gate), an old part of the city wall that once surrounded Frankfurt. Sadly, little evidence of that part of history still exists, although you can see on a city map of Frankfurt where the old fortification used to sit – they have been turned into a sort of green belt. This is also where we’ll pick up the train again as we make our way to the Hauptbahnhof (main train station). We have a short walk towards the river looking for a particular house.

Caroline Wise, Olaf Finkbeiner, and John Wise in Frankfurt, Germany

Olaf’s house is the one we are looking for, and we find him before we see his place. Standing in front of his building looking for us, it doesn’t look like this old friend has changed much at all. Upstairs in his large flat, we first meet his kids, Johnny and Lucy, and then his wife, Sylvia. A large table is set, and we are immediately invited to breakfast. Good thing that was scheduled as a part of our getting together. Like all of our meetings here in Germany, there are a few moments of getting reacquainted before falling into conversation as though time stood still during the intervening years, though the technology has dramatically shifted.

I first met Olaf back in 1989, maybe earlier, but my foggy memory can’t be sure. He was living down the street from us on Glauburgstrasse with To and Roman. Roman was and still is a musician. At the time, his project was called Schaum Der Tage, and To was a member. Through Olaf, I would also meet Uwe Schmidt, now known as Atom™. Just as importantly, maybe more so, Olaf gave me a copy of “No Sense Of Place – The Impact Of Electronic Media On Social Behaviour” by Joshua Meyerowitz; still one of my all-time favorite books. When Caroline and I got our first copy of Imagine (3D software) for the Amiga, Olaf was right there over our shoulder, curious about the entire process. After we moved to PC and Windows 3.0 and attended Cebit in 1990, we were given a free copy of 3D Studio ver. 1.0 by Autodesk, who apparently liked our story of what we’d accomplished so far. This would start a relationship with 3D software that would guide Olaf’s career.

After breakfast, Sylvia and Johnny had to leave for soccer practice. Lucy entertained herself in another room, and Caroline, Olaf, and I spent the next hours talking about social responsibility, education, technology, and virtual reality. There was little time for nostalgia as we only had four hours to cover the past 18 years, but what we did get to share left Caroline, and I encouraged and happy that we’d had this opportunity to spend the first part of the day with Olaf and had the chance to meet his family.

A Renault Twizy on the streets of Frankfurt, Germany

We left Olaf’s walking along the river with the idea of visiting the Architectural Museum, as I’ve been looking for books that detail Germany’s town centers. So far, we’ve not had any luck finding such a book, and it appears they may only be available from souvenir shops in the cities themselves. The reason behind this need has to do with the project I’ll be working on when I get back to the States. It involves virtual reality and the Oculus Rift, which I hope will be arriving shortly after our return. On the way to the museum, we passed this Renault Twizy, a two-person electric car. Watching it scoot along, we couldn’t help but want one. Wikipedia shows that it costs about $8,000, has a range of about 61 miles, and gets along at nearly 50mph. The museum was another dead end; nothing about the architecture of Middle Ages Germany. One more stop to make this morning, this one to visit Jutta. We only had a couple of hours with my mother-in-law, but she’s always happy to see us and still can’t believe we’re here.

From left to right; Caroline Wise, Klaus, Katharina, and Stephanie Engelhardt, Emilia, Michael, Isabella, and Yanik Meyer.

Time to head back to Stephanie and Klaus’s. Today, we are meeting Klaus’s brother and his family. While we were away, Klaus (a terrific cook we are learning) made a cake with a bunch of fresh fruit. Shortly after we returned the Meyer’s arrived, also with a homemade cake. Michael is Klaus’s younger brother. He’s married to Isabella, whose family is originally from Spain. Their two children are twins named Yanik and Emilia.

Caroline Wise and Yanik Meyer riding scooters in Frankfurt, Germany

After cake and coffee, the eight of us headed out for a walk so the four kids (including my wife) could go out and play. This little scooter proved valuable on another day, as parking is often some distance from the house due to a lack of available spots. Caroline needed something from the car, and Stephanie suggested she take Katharina’s scooter. I do believe if we lived within scootering distance from work, Caroline would have one of these in Phoenix.

The Ursel bach (stream) flowing near Stephanie and Klaus's in Frankfurt, Germany

Not only is the train stop nearby, but the grocery and a pizza place too, a small stream and green belt also run through the community. To get to this lush setting, we only walked a few minutes up the street before being greeted by this surprise. Surprise because here we are a few weeks into our trip here and we are just now learning of it.

Katharina and Klaus Engelhardt sharing some laughs in a local playground. Frankfurt, Germany

Let me update this to FIVE kids. Klaus dared sit down on the “Crazy Spinny Vomit Inducer Thingy” and allowed me to do my best spinning him so fast that centrifugal force nearly launched him into a neighboring country. Just before the flight (and my attempt to capture the moment Klaus became an astronaut), he put down a foot to brake himself. This probably doesn’t require stating the obvious, but Katharina was hysterical with laughter watching Dad spinning at hundreds, if not millions, of revolutions per minute.

Katharina Engelhardt and her aunt Caroline enjoying a moment at the park in Frankfurt, Germany

It’s easy to believe that Katharina has really enjoyed getting to know her aunt Caroline. The two of them have spent as much time together as our busy schedule has allowed. Just nine days after we leave, Katharina will become a teenager, so the next time we see this happy, well-adjusted niece of Caroline’s, she’ll be well on her way to being a young lady. It’s been great getting to know her a little while she’s still so innocent and happy. If only all of us could be so excited and enthusiastic about our time in life.

Emilia playing in the sand

While the big kids played, the younger ones had no problem entertaining themselves. At this age, Emilia and her brother Yanik are amazed by everything around them, and it’s obvious how busy Isabella stays as she pushes, prods, and pulls them from potential danger. Though at times, like this one in the sandbox, we all get to sit back and watch them play.

Stephanie Engelhardt in Frankfurt, Germany

I could have Photoshopped this to make it really look like Stephanie was knuckle-deep with her finger in her nose, but I thought better of it and decided to leave it looking like maybe she was covering her mouth while coughing, which she wasn’t. She’s wearing two pairs of glasses, as all moms have extra eyes in which to watch their children when they think they can hide from mom’s all-knowing vision of everything they do.

Yanik considering his options with the intriguing water rushing by. Frankfurt, Germany

And this is the reason mothers need extra eyes. Yanik considers his options as he watches the intriguing, sparkly, fast-moving water rush by. He, Katharina, and Emilia had been lying down on a small bridge, dipping their hands into the water underneath them. Well, if this was so much fun, maybe getting in the stream would be great fun, too. Not if you’re Isabella; Mom was on constant vigil as he tempted fate by getting just an inch or two from the stream when he could. The photo is of him before he got close; here, he’s still far away. In a moment, he was but a grass blade away from taking a swim.

Caroline Wise, Klaus and Katharina Engelhardt, with Michael Meyer in Frankfurt, Germany

After a couple of hours of walking through the park and playing, it was nearly time to bid farewell to the Meyer family. It’s been a great afternoon getting to know a little about Klaus’s brother and his family. Before they left, there was some time left for scooter races and even time for Michael to try riding Katharina’s Wave Board. So far, this has been a perfect day.

Zur Golden Kron (The Golden Crown) restaurant in Frankfurt, Germany

How to put the icing on perfection? A perfect meal, that’s how! Klaus, Stephanie, Katharina, Caroline, and I took the train one stop back towards Frankfurt city center and then walked the rest of the way to Zur Golden Kron (The Golden Crown) restaurant. From the white asparagus soup to the Austrian-style dessert, our dinner in one of Klaus’s favorite places was amazing. And now it really has been a perfect day from start to finish.

A Day In Geisenheim, Germany

Caroline Wise and Vevie Engelhardt in Geisenheim, Germany

Caroline and I had to leave Frankfurt relatively early today for a drive to Geisenheim. Our date is with Vevie Engelhardt, Caroline’s stepmother. It took nearly an hour to get out here; it would have taken longer if we could have stopped at all the places along the Rhein River we drove along, but we didn’t get away from Frankfurt at 8:00 like we wanted to. Once in the small village where Vevie lives, we picked a parking spot and started walking through the fussgänger zone (pedestrian area – no cars allowed) until stumbling upon her street. This didn’t work out as perfectly as it sounds; once on the street, we easily found house numbers 2 through 8 on the right but couldn’t find numbers on the left. Towards the end of the street, we turned left to see if maybe there were backside entrances, only 1 and 5, we needed number 3. So we returned the way we came, certain that we were missing the obvious. Once more, we checked the back of the building and found that number 3 was out of sequence. Great, in a moment, we were at Vevie’s door being greeted with some mighty big hugs.

The Rheingau Dom in Geisenheim, Germany - the local Catholic church.

We spend a few minutes seeing Vevie’s apartment, having a drink of some homemade? Berry syrup she made before she put lunch in the oven and took us on a walk of her neighborhood. It’s another beautiful day here in central Germany, though a touch on the cool side.

Caroline Wise and Vevie Engelhardt walking in Geisenheim, Germany

As Caroline and Vevie catch up on a couple of decades of conversation, I linger behind the two and enjoy the sights, concentrating on the photography.

Geisenheim, Germany

I’m in love with these small villages. They are quaint, old, full of character, and while occasionally tagged by a graffiti hoodlum, as opposed to graffiti artists, they are not run down, dangerous, or falling into decrepitude as so many small towns in America are. How these places remain vibrant is nearly beyond my ability to comprehend.

Inside the Rheingau Dom, a Catholic church in Geisenheim, Germany

We cannot pass an old church without trying the door. Sadly, the Lutheran and Protestant churches are closed all days except Sunday, where the Catholic church’s doors remain open every day.

Street side in Geisenheim, Germany

I’d like to wonder out loud if a street-side display like this would survive 24 hours in New York City, or would the plants and containers quickly find themselves scattered around town at other people’s properties? Don’t get the wrong idea about my kvetching about America. I love the land I live in, but I’m saddened by our nearly silent acceptance of decay, crime, and lack of education that afflicts so many.

On the fussganger zone (pedestrian zone) in Geisenheim, Germany

After our walk around town, we returned to Vevie’s place and sat down to lunch, and we talked. And we talked some more. Time for espresso and more talk. Along the way, we got a commitment from Vevie that she’d like to come visit us and see some of the beauty of the Grand Canyon, the Redwoods, and Yellowstone. We agree that next May or September would be best; a loose date has been set.

Caroline Wise and Vevie Engelhardt sitting down for ice cream in Geisenheim, Germany

As we talked through the afternoon and were not quite ready to part company, we followed Vevie to a local Italian Eis Shop (ice cream) for a sweet. Awesome, spaghetti eis is on the menu; see earlier entry for an explanation of this amazing treat. Caroline and Vevie opt for a fruity eis. The ice cream was great as long as the sun bore down on us, but some pesky clouds kept sweeping by, throwing a chill down upon us. With it getting later, we had to bid adieu to leave us enough time to visit Jutta. It was a bittersweet farewell, although it was tempered with the hopes we’d meet again in little more than a year; our fingers are crossed.

The Frankfurt skyline at sunset

Not an hour later, we were back in Frankfurt and arriving at Bürger Hospital much quicker than we’d anticipated; it was rush hour. As it has been every day we’ve been here, Jutta is thrilled to see us. We spend a couple more hours talking with Jutta and laughing with her, too, before the fullness we left Geisenheim with starts to fade, and I start thinking about what we’ll find in this city for dinner tonight.