Day 8 – Gelnhausen

Frankfurt, Germany

I would be the first to admit that I often write about the mundane, and I’m okay with that because while I’m working my way through everyday occurrences that maybe shouldn’t warrant my scrutiny, I often discover something or other worth remembering. While I’m writing, though, most everything feels mundane. Take the following.

Waking in Germany here at the edge of summer is difficult under the circumstances to which I’m still adjusting. Here is my question: why does it feel so difficult to wake up in the morning all of a sudden? Well, I figured it out. Light and sound are not congruous with what my brain is expecting during these hours. It’s well after dark when I drift off to sleep, but knowing it’ll be light far earlier than I want to wake up, I close the window shades. Anyone who’s been to Germany knows that the external window shades block all light and turn your living space into eternal night if you so desire. So, around the time my body has had enough sleep, the morning noises have already grown louder, but it’s still pitch black in my room. I check my Fitbit and see that I should get going, so I jump up and open the shades: bright daylight floods in. There is no slow transition from night to day; it’s a light switch action that screams violently at me to WAKE UP! All of a sudden, I appreciate my 26 years living in Arizona, rising with the sun from spring to early fall.

The next bit of the mundane is the racket I heard this morning, which sounded like early morning construction. Turns out, it was the men who were picking up the garbage cans. In Jutta’s old apartment building, the trash cans are out back. There is no space for them in the front of the building. So, at 6:30, the trash collectors enter the building, go up a few stairs, through the building, down a few stairs, and into the rear courtyard. They grab the cans; Frankfurt collects regular, paper, compostable, and recyclable trash, which all have their own cans. Those often heavy plastic cans that serve anywhere from 4 or 5 tenants to nearly a dozen have to be dragged upstairs, through the building, and downstairs over to the curb. The collection truck is working behind the men and comes by a few minutes later with two other workers, one driving and the other pushing the cans to the machine that picks them up to empty them into their vehicle. Following these guys is another worker who puts the cans away, dragging them upstairs, through the building, downstairs, and back to where they belong. The five-man team is in constant motion.

Finally, I can now get moving to my first destination of the day: Gelnhausen, or something that might distract me on the way. Like Grand Canyon boatman Bruce Keller shared with us almost a dozen years ago, “Indecision is the key to flexibility.” Those are great words to live by.

Just when I think I’m about to step out the door and jump into my next adventure, I start thinking about how much I miss Caroline. At nearly 8:00 in the morning here, it’s 11:00 p.m. back home, where Caroline has gone to sleep. She has to wake at 4:30 to beat the heat of the Arizona sun to take a longer walk. And so, while I’m ready to go about my day, I don’t get to take her with me, so to speak. She does a lot for me from 10,000 kilometers away, as there are many things going on behind the scenes here that are not written about. She’s my enthusiastic coach, encouraging me to push through.

In seven hours, Caroline will be well awake and already stepping out for her walk in the still almost cool desert air. She’ll have reached out to let me know she’s awake, and then we’ll wait a short while until she’s gotten going before we start the next eight-hour block of chatting, talking, and nudging one another with hugs and smiles. By the time I go to sleep, she’s usually able to see the photos that I’m posting here, and by my afternoon, the writing has been long finished and is ready for her critical eyes as she edits the entry before publishing it for me.

While she and I can communicate for about 10 hours a day, there are 14 hours when one or the other of us is asleep, and we must not compromise that. When I’m at home, we spend the first three hours and the last five hours of the day together, Monday through Friday. Over the course of the nine hours apart, we reach out in chat, smiling at each other and sharing reassurances of our love, such as Caroline’s favorite (and admittedly very cute) emoticon, the smile-inducing avocado love.

In my race against trying to remain current with photos and blog posts, visiting Jutta, sorting her effects, and seeing friends and family, I think I’ve forgotten to blurt out how much I’m always missing Caroline and how much I love her, which is amplified by the fact that I’m in her birth city without her. Everything I see and do is measured through the filter of, “I know that Caroline would love seeing this too.” I don’t believe either of us thinks this is obsessive; we’re simply the best of friends and are thrilled that the other is as enthusiastic about these experiences. So, while my day has shrunk even more because of what I have planned, I thought it important to let her know where my head is as she drifts deeper into sleep.

Train to Gelnhausen, Germany

Sometimes, the obvious things remain unseen for the longest time, and so it was this morning arriving at the Frankfurt Hauptbahnhof. I waited to fetch breakfast until reaching the train station and then scanned a number of food stands in the main corridor, looking for what might appeal to me. I grabbed a Laugenbaguette mit Salami und gebackenem Käse (pretzel roll with salami and baked cheese) and walked away from others so I could take down my mask and eat. It was my second or third bite while thinking about the flavors when I smiled, thinking about Caroline and her experiments in the past year to bake Laugenbrot (pretzel bread). These are the flavors with which Caroline and her family, along with most other Germans, have grown up. Whether it’s rye, wholegrain, or pretzel that holds ham, salami, or cheese, these are very common grab-and-go foods but also staples at home. My backward thinking only having come into contact with these in my 20s when in a hurry to get somewhere else, I saw them as a kind of fast food of last resort because time didn’t allow me to go to McDonald’s or Denny’s. Yeah, I was that primitive.

When Caroline tells me that she’d be happy with some coarse rye, butter, and a bit of cheese, I feel like she’s cheating herself from enjoying something big, savory, and hot because, somehow, I’ve been missing a key part of her formative years in Germany. These are the luxuries that reconnect her with the taste of home and were never considered cheap excuses for a meal due to lack of time. Where have my head and idiotic biases been for so long? I must now and forever honor the belegte Brot (German-style sandwich – although this translation does not do this delicacy any justice).

After this moment of personal insight, I walked over to Track 5 from where my train to Gelnhausen was going to depart, except it turned out that it was being moved to Track 4. Well, I wasn’t the only one confused because as I walked up to the door, a couple of guys about my age said in German, “I hope this is the train I need to take,” while I replied, “I hope so too as I’m getting on and will see where I go.” With a laugh, they stepped on after me. The conversation continued as they discussed the situation behind me. I was already seated when they came upstairs and just so happened to sit in my area while much of the train was empty. We started talking.

So, they were talking, and I was trying to listen. Because I spoke just enough German, they thought I had an adequate minimum and started pulling me into the conversation; I had to explain the state of my poor German language skills, and the older guy said that they could speak langsam, slowly. Moving between German and English, we talked and talked, passing right through Hanau without me even noticing until one of them asked if Gelnhausen wasn’t the next stop. I thought this impossible, but sure enough, we’d been on the train for more than 30 minutes and were, in fact, nearing my destination.

Siggy in Gelnhausen, Germany

I got lost in time due to the subject matter Siggy and I were talking about: the love of life. Siggy lost his lower leg in a motorcycle accident when he was 21 and a university student on his way to becoming a teacher. While he taught children with special needs for a while, he found after having children of his own that with his disability pay and his wife’s income (who was also a teacher), he’d prefer being a stay-at-home Hausfrau (housewife – his words). Siggy now lives in assisted living in Idstein and was on his way to Gelnhausen as the doctor who’s treated his leg for more than 30 years practices out here where he used to live.

Waking to sunshine on his balcony, talking with strangers, a life of learning, exploring, and smiling has brought Siggy to being incredibly happy to be alive. He said that when gets up in the morning and feels the pain of putting on his prosthetic leg, he does a little dance. He even got up and showed us the jig he performs to celebrate the new day.

Gelnhausen, Germany

I walked into town with this incredibly friendly older guy and was just amazed that I’d met him this morning. All because I acknowledged a bit of banter instead of just walking by. We parted ways as he turned to his doctor’s office, and he told me that I’d want to walk through the arch over to Untermarkt, which is the interesting part of town. Instead, I took a seat somewhere first and noted my encounter, happy to have met such an optimistic gentleman. Now I can go see what’s in Gelnhausen.

Nothing like having a camera battery showing less than full to remind me that carrying the second battery is not going to weigh me down. Now I have to take photos with great intention instead of sloppily taking hundreds of shots to get a couple of dozen great ones. It feels like I’m shooting film now.

Gelnhausen, Germany

I have to adjust my view of the map as here in Germany because when I zoom into the place I am, I read distances as being much greater than they are. Before I knew it, I had walked all the way around the old town as I hunted for an old Romanisches Haus dating from the 12th century. It turns out that it was right in the square in front of the church as I walked into the old city center. My sense of scale has not adjusted from my perception while in America as if it was a type of jetlag where it takes time to reset your inner compass and ability to read a landscape.

Gelnhausen, Germany

Maybe quaint German villages are a dime a dozen, but that doesn’t diminish how fantastic they are to me every time I step into one I’ve not visited before. Apparently, they are of such little consequence to the average German that it turns out I’ve likely been to more places than a good majority of Germans. This also holds true for our travels in America, where only a few people will ever visit so many locations across the United States as Caroline and I have.

Gelnhausen, Germany

I admit I love being here without tourists as I have many opportunities to snap photos unobscured by throngs of people, but on the other hand, I’m able to run through a village too fast, and people-watching isn’t what it used to be, so I quickly run out of things to do. Maybe I forgot to add that museums and many shops are still closed too so that limits what might be done; then add that Caroline is not here to tell me the history of everything because she knows everything, and it feels like I might be here and gone before I know it.

Gelnhausen, Germany

I could see us living here in this wonderful little house, but the fresh food choices are limited, and so should we one day find ourselves able to live out here, we’d have to consider how to acquire foodstuffs only available in cities the size of Frankfurt.

Marienkirche in Gelnhausen, Germany

At least when I’m in Europe, I feel that I might go to church more frequently than the average American back home because here I am again, sitting in the house of God. The Marienkirche of Gelnhausen has served parishioners since at least 1223 and maybe longer, as this is the first written mention of the church. The town of Gelnhausen itself is hardly older, dating to the year 1170.

Marienkirche in Gelnhausen, Germany

The church is stunningly quiet save for the humidifier that I may have triggered after entering the room housing two tapestries. Not much is known about these pieces of art other than they are dated from the 15th century and may have been used to decorate the altar at some point. Both tapestries depict scenes of the life of Jesus Christ. They were found in storage in 1870 in poor condition and have been restored several times since.

Marienkirche in Gelnhausen, Germany

I’ve taken up a seat in the choir section of the nave and wonder about the provenance of these uncomfortable narrow seats lining the room with their beautiful five windows overhead behind the altar. Still no word from God or a lowly angel, but my stomach talks to me to let me know that at this moment my soul needs food more than my heart needs a spiritual awakening. Being the barbarian I am, I heed the command of the gut and pack up, thus relieving my butt from the cold hardwood pushing the blood into other areas.

Marienkirche in Gelnhausen, Germany

There’s poetry in allowing these old pieces of art painted on the walls of the church to fade over time, as this is exactly what is happening to your and my life; we are forever fading. At one time, our image is strong and vibrant, but with the passing days, others will start to see past us or not see us at all as we no longer possess that spark of vibrancy that draws the eye and imagination of others. Our shadows and what remains of what was, is the story that helps establish the foundation for others trying to decipher who we were and what secrets may be lost to the passage of time.

Marienkirche in Gelnhausen, Germany

When the light of our star shines brightest upon us, we see the glory in the illumination of what was previously dark, and details previously unseen are brought into sharp focus. Maybe many objects of art hold a special place in our imaginations as those that we protect never age; they never appear to grow older and always show us the same image we saw yesterday. They are the youth we saw in ourselves and help satisfy our own desire for immortality. Within the fetish, the souvenir, the memento, or any object we hold dear, we can celebrate that this thing will survive us and that others can recognize that we’ve been here through the symbol. It is as though Jesus was kept alive in many people’s hearts because of his image and the cross being passed on to so many generations. The same goes for Mohammed through the poetry of the Koran or for Hinduism, with images and prayers for the many deities. In our art, we find eternal life.

Gelnhausen, Germany

I’m at Ristorante Delizia and have ordered grilled squid on a stack of carrots and broccoli, as well as mineral water. There are only four tables sitting here on this beautiful sunny day, such is the impact of tourism being discouraged, but by the look of the pamphlets being read at an adjacent table, I’d surmise that tourism is on its way back, slowly but surely.

Waiting for my lunch, which promises to be a while as this is Germany, I check on my train back to Frankfurt. I’m guessing I’ll get back around 3:00, which hopefully allows me a few minutes to drop in on Jutta and then get over to Heddernheim for Klaus and me to take a walk along the Nidda River later this afternoon. Actually, sharing this right now, I’m just stalling from falling into writing anything else as I’m now watching the clock waiting for Caroline to send hellos.

Fifteen minutes late, she obviously hit the snooze button. With an adequate amount of love exchanged, I had the dessert to my wonderful meal and made my way back to the train station for my 45-minute ride back. I watched four different high-speed trains zip through just a few feet away from where I was standing. I hope I have the opportunity during this visit to Germany to get on board one of the ICE trains to Munich or Paris; either or both would do.

Sometimes, when you think about what’s being managed as freight, commuters, and inter-city high-speed trains all share the same tracks, you should be rightfully amazed at what the engineers are handling. With commuter trains traveling slower with frequent stops, some trains cut down the time between cities by making fewer stops but using the same track, effectively traveling at a different speed, and then the high-speed ICE trains traveling two and three times faster than everyone else who has to be out of the way of these speeding giants and it seems like a logistics nightmare. Deutsche Bahn, the  German train service, and all of the regional agencies must know at every moment where every train is across Germany and all the trains that will be crossing borders today.

Frankfurt, Germany

Consider all of that and how incredibly extensive the network is that must operate 24 hours a day, seven days a week so that when you hear a German complaining about their poor train service, one has to laugh out loud. You’ll hear their bellicose natures rise up when a train is a few minutes late or if some scheduling snafu means they get hung up on a track 20 minutes from their destination, and all of a sudden, the whole system is failing, and the government is to blame. I guess when you can’t get upset about mass shootings, you have to go for the next best thing: late trains that should operate perfectly all the time. I don’t believe this thinking takes into consideration the other thousand or more trains operating that very moment on some of the 41,315 kilometers (25,672 miles) that criss-cross every single corner of this land. Maybe the idea of efficiency is a bit of an OCD problem in Germany.

Once we are over the Main River and finished pulling into the Hauptbahnhof, I’m going to pay a quick visit to Jutta before my final date of the day.

Frankfurt, Germany

It really is unbelievable to me that an hour with my mother-in-law doesn’t feel like a week; it went by in 10 minutes. I told her a bit about my sumptuous meal in Gelnhausen and the visit to Marienkirche, promising to share some photos with her tomorrow. My plan is to arrive around 10:00, go for a walk, and then try to ruin her appetite for lunch by going for ice cream. If, during my time with Jutta, I can get her to laugh, I feel like I’ve added to her quality of life.

After a quick walk over to Hauptwache past a control point where policemen were sternly telling people to get their masks on, I was on train line U1 direction Ginnheim that stops at Zeilweg, where I get off to go meet Klaus, my brother-in-law. Looks like I’ll only be about 5 minutes late.

On The Nidda River in Frankfurt, Germany

Klaus and I had agreed the day before to take a walk along the Nidda River near his and Stephanie’s place in Heddernheim. Other than fish and ducks, I didn’t know there was any other wildlife in this small river. As it was swimming to this shore, I thought it was a beaver, but Klaus told me that they were nutria. I’ve seen Louisiana nutria before, but those are massive; these guys are adults and a bit smaller than the American beaver. From the way it approaches me, I get the impression that these are, in effect, water squirrels; somebody (or many bodies) is feeding them.

On The Nidda River in Frankfurt, Germany

I told Klaus that maybe my great attraction to water and these reflections is that we don’t have this luxury in Phoenix, Arizona. Oh sure, we have a man-made short stretch of lake in a former river bed with rains now sequestered behind a dam well upstream, but natural, year-round flowing water in our corner of the Arizona desert does not exist.

On The Nidda River in Frankfurt, Germany

Take advantage of what lies before you, as the path is not the same everywhere. The exquisite beauty of light falling through these trees can be seen nowhere else on earth other than right here next to the Nidda on this particular day, which will never occur again. As enchanting as this is, there’s another path through the desert that people are neglecting to appreciate as they move blindly through what they believe they’ve already seen and are familiar enough with to take for granted. This cynicism is of no consequence to nature, nor does it matter to our fellow humans as they are not living our lives. To fail to see what we are looking at is to fail to use our senses to rediscover where the magic all around us is.

On The Nidda River in Frankfurt, Germany

Should you look at this image and see all that is right-side up and upside down, that is light and dark, that is a thousand shades of green, you will have never seen anything like this before in your lifetime. Only I was fortunate enough to be present for this moment in the long passage of eternity and the life so far from our planet to capture and share this with others. It’s not just a photo, it is the life you do not see because our vision is often too myopic to understand the infinity of what we might be able to perceive.

On The Nidda River in Frankfurt, Germany

Proof that German trees are inventoried, numbered, and fully managed. Wild forests are rare or maybe even non-existent.

On The Nidda River in Frankfurt, Germany

We’d walked over 5 miles before we were again near the neighborhood where Klaus and Stephanie live. I asked if Speisekammer restaurant had reopened yet, so Klaus looked it up and thought they were open. At a fork in the road, he asked if we should walk by to verify this, as I’ve found other restaurants that claim to be open but are still closed due to COVID restrictions.

They were open. The next part of the story is a bit sketchy, but it worked for us, so we went with it. A server approached, telling us we needed full vaccination proof or proof of a negative COVID test from the past 24 to 72 hours, depending on which test you took. I already had my passport in my hand and was presenting my CDC vaccination card as he was telling us this in German. I’d already told Klaus to only speak English to this guy and pretend not to be German. As the server figured out my card, he asked if that’s what we both had. I assured him it was and we were sat. Klaus was astonished nearly to hysterical laughter that this had worked, and for the first time in months, he was able to sit down in a restaurant and enjoy a night off from cooking.

You should know by now my routine, Handkäse mit Musik and Schnitzel with grüne Soße. With nearly 28,000 steps or 13 miles (20 kilometers) walked today, I was wrecked after this perfect meal and end to a great day, so instead of working on photos before going to sleep, I had to let that go and fall into bed.

Day 7 – Is It Sunday Again?

Rhubarb Danish from Frankfurt, Germany

I swear, Caroline, I did not eat this rhubarb Danish! I only used it as a prop to show you one of your favorite treats here in Frankfurt at the end of spring and early summer. After I was done photographing it, I probably threw it to some pigeons. Yeah, that’s probably what I did.

Okay, the truth is that I woke shortly before 5:00 and couldn’t go back to sleep, so I got up and started hammering words into yesterday’s 2,800-word entry. Nearly starving by 6:30 due to my Herculean efforts, I dragged myself over to Eifler for a Vollkornbrötchen with meat and a meat sandwich that was being sold as “diabetic friendly.” And somehow, that Danish, which I don’t even like, fell into my bag. I SWEAR! That and I had a gluten-free, zero-calorie cup of black coffee in a recyclable paper cup made from recycled paper.

Klaus in Frankfurt, Germany

This is the last thing I saw before I was knocked unconscious by the malicious driver in this moving van. I mean, come on, laughing as he is about to hit me? Because I was in Germany, nobody stopped to help me, but as I did for breakfast, I was able to drag myself where I needed to go, this time to the hospital. I got free socialist health care, was slapped on the back and told to “have a good life, comrade,” and was on my way.

Okay, the truth is that this is Klaus, and I paid him to hit me so I could collect the insurance money because I’m broke, but after the police arrived, they called a Frankfurt city agency who reviewed the video footage of the intersection, and they told the police to arrest me because I was probably committing fraud. I took off running [right because this fat old guy can run], ok so maybe I took off walking briskly, but because the Frankfurt Police are government stooges paid by the ill-gotten gains of the communist state, they went back to their rhubarb Danishes and let me go. I SWEAR, this is exactly what happened.

Dortelweilerstrasse in Frankfurt, Germany

Yesterday, I was speeding past Dortelweil, which I’d never heard of before, and today, it turns out that when Klaus pushed me out of the moving van, it just so happened to be at Dortelweilerstrasse. We had just finished delivering Jutta’s furniture to her assisted living facility when the police turned on their lights and siren behind us, and Klaus screamed, “They’ll never take me alive!” and pushed me out of the passenger side, hoping my heft might stop them.

Okay, the truth is that I didn’t have my seat belt on, and Klaus was already drunk at 8:30 this morning, took a corner too sharply, and I fell out. Just then, the cops confused me with someone who was scamming insurance companies and wanted to talk with me. Well, I don’t speak German, but I had the universal cop language translator with me in the form of a Rhabarberplunder (rhubarb Danish), and, like hypnotized zombies, they forgot all about me and so I quantum-teleported to Dortelweil where I was free to keep writing silly blog entries. I SWEAR!

My Temporary Desk in Frankfurt, Germany

I SWEAR it wasn’t me that started Slugs Against Slut-Shaming, but I did sit along a lush green pathway and wrote part of yesterday’s blog here.

John Wise in Frankfurt, Germany

Not a bonafide member of Slugs Against Slut-Shaming yet, as I’m still waiting for my badge, but when I get it, I’ll wear it proudly.

Frankfurt, Germany

This was the very bench along the path where I sat writing and dreaming of the Rhabarberplunder Caroline can’t have while thinking about new strategic plans for S.A.S.S. because sluts need not be shamed unnecessarily.

Frankfurt, Germany

You might question my state of mind after reading the above, but the fact is, I’m experiencing a second lazy Sunday here on Monday, and I don’t really know why. After Klaus, Stephanie, and I moved a bunch of Jutta’s stuff to her assisted living facility, I felt like enjoying the sunny day wandering around. Klaus returned the rental van to the intersection shown above, and then I chose a different direction to walk wherever. Little did I know that I was headed right for Günthersburgpark, which is more or less across the street from Saalburgstrasse, where Jutta once lived and where I’m currently staying.

Geese in Frankfurt, Germany

I’ve been enjoying walking around like a goose, just going wherever I please until I have to turn to a map to figure out where I’ve been and where I need to go.

Frankfurt, Germany

Through my wandering in the city, I’m trying to stay away from the trains as I can figure out where they go, and I’d like to continue walking into areas I’ve never been before. Hmm, I wonder where this train goes?

The Zoo in Frankfurt, Germany

I’m at the Zoo again. Frankfurt is a strange city with all roads seemingly making circles around the center. Once I was here, like the other day, I knew my way to Konstablerwache and figured this might be the perfect opportunity to visit one of the hopping Turkish restaurants I passed on Saturday. So, that’s just what I did. Was it great? Nah, nothing had Grüne Sosse on it. Oh My God! I was just looking up the spelling of green in German; you know Grün? Well, I just learned that there’s a Grüne Sosse Denkmal, a.k.a. The Green Sauce Memorial. I believe I’ll be making a pilgrimage to this holy shrine of the Frankfurt Grüne Sosse.

My Temporary Desk in Frankfurt, Germany

In keeping with lazy and unfocused, while still trying to write yesterday’s blog post, I took up a table at Coffee Fellows between Alte Oper and Hauptwache for a coffee and a rhubarb Danish I needed to deny having, so I kept it off-camera. As for the ashtray, sure I smoke while visiting Germany and trim my mustache to a little thing under my nose and dye it black. Tomorrow I’m getting a haircut, a fade, because I don’t give a shit about FCK NZS. I SWEAR!

Hauptwache Subway Station in Frankfurt, Germany

I have no idea how to sandwich something witty about this subway station between the previous paragraph and what comes next. I’ll think about it and maybe edit it in the future, but probably not.

Torsten Kühne in Frankfurt, Germany

I don’t know this guy, but I’m into the buttholes behind him.

Okay, the truth is that this is the artist Torsten Kühne at the Schirn Museum, which just reopened this past Friday after a year of being closed. The featured exhibit presents the works of Gilbert and George! We were just chatting to set up a meeting for the two of us over coffee on Thursday morning. I hope he doesn’t plan on showing me his butthole, but if he does, I’ll be sure to get a photo to prove that he did.

Olbia Pizzeria in Frankfurt, Germany

It took an entire week before I dipped into Olbia Pizzeria for a number 5 salami with mushroom pizza. I wanted to order rigatoni diavolo at the same time because my pizza is only 6.50 Euro so how filling can that be? But these pizzas were always satisfying when Caroline and I lived about 175 meters away around the corner. There are more than a dozen of us waiting outside for our pizza, with more walking up while others are leaving with their paper-wrapped dinner. I’d like to say this is the best pizza I’ve ever had but, to be honest, it’s at least the best in Germany I’ve had, and it seems that many in Frankfurt agree with this assessment as they’ve won many Best Of awards here at North End of Frankfurt.

Frankfurt, Germany

Afterward, I’ll see if I can’t get another couple of miles of walking in to work off the indulgence I’m about to enjoy. Before taking off, I needed to share that for the first time ever; I’m sitting in Glauburgplatz, which is a little playground and park about a minute and a half from where we lived on Gluckstrasse over two decades ago. There’s a WWII bunker here that, like so many bunkers in Germany, proved too difficult and costly to tear down after the war, so they were left standing. They are built so heavy that they make great band rehearsal spaces, but this particular one I believe, is being torn down as housing is more important these days. Just before I left Arizona, we heard of a 500-kilo bomb that was found right next to the playground, buried under 6 feet of earth, and needed to be detonated. The mountains of sand they brought in to cover the explosion still sit in place.

I’m sitting in the park because Olbia doesn’t have outdoor seating, so no one can eat at Olbia. It turns out that quite a few of us pulled up one of the seven park benches or a stretch of wall to enjoy our dinners outside. What’s so normal to me after having lived in Germany for ten years is something that I hardly even notice anymore: most everyone here has an open bottle of alcohol with them. When customers walk up to the window at Olbia, a few of them are carrying open bottles of wine they sip from while waiting. How strange it is that this is perfectly legal here and in America, it would probably give rise to melees, which would have more people drawing guns in their drunken belligerence, but here, nobody is checking the IDs of anyone enjoying a beer or bottle of wine while chilling at a playground.

Frankfurt, Germany

Walking around relatively aimlessly, there’s a lot to notice, smell, see, and listen to here in Frankfurt. Bikes, scooters, carts being pulled down sidewalks, tires rumbling over brick streets, birds, conversations of friends walking along, many women heading somewhere, sometimes in pairs and just as often by themselves. As I make my way through this environment, I can’t even consider running into someone I know, nor can I imagine starting up a spontaneous conversation. The language, more often than not, is only one more part of a soundscape that creates a bubble where I’m relatively alone in my thoughts and observations. Getting used to this again is not so easy as there’s this tie to my best friend in Phoenix, who is not here to share these extraordinary moments with me.

So, I am totally anonymous and somewhat unattached to the typical requirements that are put upon those who are making a living and working to accomplish some traditional task or challenge that is a normal part of life. I live outside of that normal, aloof, and able to observe to my heart’s content. The potential for nothing to intrude into my peaceful wanderings is certainly a luxury afforded to few. Like sitting in a church, I’m streetside waiting for the external to make itself known, and instead, I watch some silly teenagers flirt for a moment and just as quickly part ways as if it was just a chance encounter.

Frankfurt, Germany

It’s after 10:00 p.m. here on a Monday night, and there’s no slowdown on this relatively quiet street. An Italian man riding a bike talking loudly to himself passed by just after half a dozen young women were heading somewhere. The sound of clinking glass, footsteps, and even the occasional drag of a cigarette can find its way to my ears. If I had to try to keep track of how many bikes pass by I’d guess it to be something around 10 per minute with an equal amount of scooters zipping over the street and sidewalks. Slavik, German, Italian, Spanish, and Turkish voices are heard, along with a host of accents behind those learning German that I can’t identify. Finally, a drunken German, barking loud, aggressive, heavily punctuated, cigarette-destroyed, non-sequential words that just bolt out of his mouth randomly, almost threateningly.

I’m not feeling like I’ve walked off much of my pizza yet as words don’t offer a sense of consuming many calories, but then again, what’s driving the fingers and brain to participate in the expenditure of energy in this attempt to say something that I believe I want to share with myself and my wife? Then it dawns on me, yes, I’m using the food I ate to assist in this process, but it is the motion of walking and the peristalsis that comes from that, which commands my bowels, kidneys, and other organs to perform more efficiently so that my spike in blood sugars might be kept in check. Time to keep walking.

Day 6 – Marburg and Family

Oh yeah, trains don’t run as frequently on Sundays in Germany! With eight minutes to spare before I can travel from Bornheim Mitte to the Hauptbahnhof, I suppose this is as good a time as any to pull out the computer and start writing. My original plan was to be out earlier for a trip down to Worms, but plans changed because it is 9:30 already, and I’m meeting family for dinner later today. So the idea now is to get to the main train station (Hauptbahnhof) and see what train might be leaving the soonest with no transfers along the route so I can minimize my travel time today while maximizing sightseeing opportunities.

The city, like all cities in Germany, is quiet on a Sunday. People get a late start and walk over to their local bakery to fetch breakfast that they’ll carry home. Before I got out, I was reading noisy American news about UFOs, how TikTok helped create chaos in Huntington Beach, yellow stars of David with “Unvaccinated” printed on them, and how gun sales are still up. What a bunch of crap to drive anxiety.

This got me thinking about the environment I’m in and how impossible it is to consider the German population could be riled into believing that imminent disaster is so close at hand that the only solution is to go buy more guns and ammunition. I’ll be the first to admit that in America, this doesn’t seem so absurd because guns are ubiquitous, but here I am in Europe, thinking of the population racing to knife shops and exhausting their supply of sharp new blades and the tools to keep them that way is simply bizarre. The idea that your fellow citizens or government is so unhinged that the apocalypse is never far away can only be seen as something approaching insanity.

Worms didn’t work out. I’m now on my way to Marburg to see whatever it is that might be in Marburg. Small and medium-sized cities and various train stops are interspersed between farmlands on the way north. It’s difficult snagging a photo (see above) as I’m on the sunny side of the train with a lot of glare off my window while the other side of the train is nearly full, as though the other passengers already knew where the hot side was.

Two stops so far in the first 40 minutes of my journey: first in Friedberg and then in Giessen. The next stop must be my destination. Our train grew shorter in Giessen as a part of it that was going to Siegen has been left behind.

The Marburg train station is on my right while the old town is on my left, but standing on the bridge crossing the Lahn River looking out in this direction, I try to imagine when this was an important trade route at the crossroads between Prague, Cologne, Italy, and the North Sea. With just forest and river in my view, there’s no hint of modernity; it’s easy to see the same thing someone else would have seen 400 years ago from this place on the map.

Here I am, about to delve into history, when a small sticker on a metal post catches my eye. I wonder where I join this group of slugs against slut-shaming?

Mother Pauline Rothschild, age 88, when she died in Marburg, and probably her daughter Minna Rothschild, age 58, tried to escape to America in 1939, but by 1941, Pauline was likely murdered on the spot due to her age while her daughter was sent to Riga, Germany (now Latvia) probably as a slave until she too died at the hands of a rage-filled sociopath. These “Stumbling Stones” seem to be everywhere reminding us of the Jewish people who once lived in the house in front of which the stones are placed.

Saint Elizabeth’s Church of Marburg is my first stop after leaving the train station. This church was built between 1235 and 1283 over the gravesite of St. Elizabeth, wife of Count Ludwig IV of Thuringia. Her husband died while she was only 21. She had three children already and left the court of the Wartburg in Eisenach to live in poverty here in Marburg. This is also the first church in Germany built in the Gothic style and influenced by churches in Amiens and Reims, France.

While a small pamphlet explains briefly a number of things in the church, not all are, such as this jewel-encrusted Shrine for St Elizabeth of Hungary made between 1235 and 1249.

Close-up detail from the shrine.

Remember when real work went into making floors, and we had these amazing designs in our kitchens? Yeah, me neither.

Maybe I’ve not been in enough American churches, but a theme I’ve often seen across Europe is the depiction of death.

These photos are in sequence with how I shot them, so at this moment, I was behind the altar and spotted this old graffiti in the dimly lit passage. Typically, these areas have been off-limits.

With nearly no one else in the church, it felt like I had a good long time to linger and check out the artifacts without feeling like I was blocking someone else from enjoying the sights.

I don’t know a thing about the landgraves entombed here but their final resting places are beautiful. In another section is the body of Paul von Hindenburg, who was the former President of Germany prior to the rise of Hitler, and next to his tomb lays his wife.

Church art must have been the blockbuster movies of their day. Only the church could have afforded such extravagances in the creation of pieces that would last centuries.

I’m sitting in the original oak choir stalls, which is where the Knights of the Teutonic Order also sat. While some visitors have come and gone, I’m mostly alone, save the person at the front door. My mask had to come down although it’s against government policy, I have to smell the church. The ambiance of these ancient buildings is not only the magnificence of what was built using primitive tools that required decades to finish, but not only the breadth of history they’ve witnessed but the scent of time that’s passed through these monuments.

While not a religious man, I can’t help but sit in quiet contemplation and listen for the echoes of God or for hints of the voices of those from the distant past that might still resonate within these walls. There is no organ playing, no incense burning, and only a few candles flicker here and there. How long might I have to wait here until what I believe is impossible continues to be denied me or that I give and leave?

Only the remains of the landgraves will linger on long after I’ve taken my leave, while no manner of deeds from myself will ever qualify me to lay in rest for potentially hundreds or maybe thousands of years as do those enshrined here. Is it only in death that we are afforded the privilege of hearing the voice of God?

The High Altar is the original and dates from 1290. Much to my surprise, I was allowed to walk behind it.

There’s no one here to tell me if the paintings on walls within the church are originals or if they are fading relics of something only painted in the last 100 years or so.

I spent a good long time here at the church, and, as usual, I never feel that I’ve given myself enough opportunity to simply be here and allow something I cannot seem to find or connect with to find me. I suppose giving into faith might be a needed first step, but that’s a line I’m not willing to cross.

Not an easy church to photograph from the outside as the usual culprits such as modern buildings and street signage, often obscure the views. In order to capture this much of the building, I had to cut off the lower part, including the doors, but you get the general idea.

I never get food photography right, but that doesn’t mean I won’t post an image of it from time to time. Something as amazing as the good old Döner Kebab should be noted for posterity as we have nothing in America that comes remotely close to this incredible meal, and I miss them every time I return to the United States.

Just up the hill, or is it a mountain? This is the Marburg Castle. I don’t know how many of the 43 floors my Fitbit is reporting I’ve climbed, but it was a good, steep walk. I didn’t investigate whether any parts other than the exterior of the castle are visitable as if it were I’m certain Caroline would like to explore it with me. With the pandemic, I can’t believe it would be open yet, as there are so many restrictions still in place. No matter, it’s a nice walk.

Empty historical locations on a weekend are unknown to me. If only I could visit Florence, Italy, right now, but no way in 1,000 years would I go there without you-know-who.

While I’ve been somewhat manipulative, waiting for the few people who are here and there to clear away, that wouldn’t have been possible before the pandemic.

I can’t write much of what shows up in these blog posts in real-time, so here I am at 4:00 in the afternoon, 26 hours after I took the photo of the clock on the castle in Marburg. I’m sitting at Coffee Fellows between Hauptwache to my right and Alte Oper to my left. I’m having an oat milk two-shot latte, trying to stop people watching long enough to come up with something to add to my visit to the Landgrafenschloss (Landgraven Castle).

Back in the 11th century, the castle began life as a fort; the view should explain all you need to figure out its strategic advantage.

Decaying bricks and moss-covered stairs leading into a mystery beyond the door drew my imagination into wanting to discover what I might find in there. The intrigue is likely more interesting than the reality as all too often I’ve peered into dirty windows to find that I’m looking at junk as the space is being used for storage.

Ad infinitum, I reference the importance of capturing some of the smallest details to fill the gaps between the larger views. This should be of no consequence requiring explanation, but when I have nothing meaningful to add to an image, thus causing a minor amount of anxiety that I must write something, I likely repeat myself just so some dumb words show up that offer the reader really nothing at all. My apologies for wasting your time; I should have just posted the photo and said nothing.

Somehow, I’d forgotten to get a coffee earlier, and with my head a bit sensitive for the transgression, I was able to pick up one “to go” from a small shop with a wide-open facade that didn’t have a line at the door to meter the people coming in. With coffee in hand, I was able to find a narrow wooden bench that won the 2019 Most Uncomfortable Award in Marburg for the second year running. I’m sure if COVID hadn’t hit last year, it would have been a triple play. Like every day, I have a complaint. Back in 1985, it cost me about $0.20 to $0.33 to use a toilet; today, it’s about $1.10. My coffee costs just over two bucks, and it costs another dollar to get rid of it. This is demotivating for my attitude of staying hydrated. No wonder Germans go out to the bakery, grocery, or ice cream shop and then right back home; otherwise, they’d go broke keeping their bladders empty.

I need to head to the train station as my ride back to Frankfurt leaves in 25 minutes, but first, I need to go throw away a Euro.

Back on the train questioning if this $35 roundtrip journey was worth it. This is an important question as I have other regional treks planned that will cost a similar amount. I think the value I assign to a place is related to the quality of photos, the story I stumble into after reflecting on the day, and some other unknown intrinsic values I’m not aware of yet.

Hmm, Katharina just posted to the Engelhardt / Wise WhatsApp channel that her train is about 15 minutes late, while mine is now 11 minutes late. We are supposed to converge in Heddenheim around 5:00 as Klaus is making us Grüne Sosse, and I do believe I could eat Grüne Sosse every day.

Due to it being Sunday, I feel it’s okay to feel less than productive. I won’t be seeing Jutta this afternoon, but I’ve seen her every other day I’ve been in Germany, so that’s not so bad. Being lazy on occasion isn’t a negative, though I do feel guilty as here I am exploring the German countryside while Caroline just started her Sunday in the heat of the desert. While it’s 7:00 in the morning in Phoenix, I have 4:00 in the afternoon here. We’ll try to get in as much long-distance affection in the next seven hours as possible, as after that, I’ll disappear for nearly eight hours, and upon waking, Caroline will be short upon going to sleep herself.

We are passing through Giessen, and from its appearance, I can’t say that anything looks particularly interesting, nor do I remember hearing about anything that must be seen. By the way, I’m looking at Germany with such a critical eye because if one day we were to move back here, this would be our reality. I think I’ve had a Pollyannaesque view of Germany, and my idealism overwhelmed the reality that people must live in functional, affordable housing with plenty of jobs to support them as opposed to quaint and idyllic locations where a kind of Disneyland abundance of fun awaits me. There is a utility to much of what’s plopped down along the train tracks and beyond the farms. Small plots of new-growth forest are off in the distance but little in the way of wildlands.

Maybe I’m on to something in way of explaining the trappings of life in Germany with so many coffee shops, bookstores, museums, and at other times, a ton of events; you grow up here knowing the conformity and lack of diversity, and so on long vacations you must go far away. You take your bike to some faraway mountains and take a ride in a manicured forest because the wild ones don’t exist here. Getting in the car to take a long drive will result in the stress of needing to drive competitively using expensive gas to arrive somewhere that might be quite like the place you left. If you are going to spend $8 a gallon for gas to travel the 700 miles roundtrip from Frankfurt to Berlin, costing you $160 compared to a similar trip in America that costs about $65, maybe you are not so inclined to call that a day trip, and you need to distribute the high cost across a couple of days?

In the western United States, we have the luxury of driving a relatively short distance to go from desert to forest or to the sea, even if you are living in Phoenix and want to visit the Pacific Ocean or head into the San Juan Mountains of southwestern Colorado. Now, I have to wonder if I’ve taken that convenience for granted. This is a tough question at this time, as the previous American political climate and fear-driven society turned me against the idea of being comfortable in such an incredibly beautiful country. Combined with our social and economic inequity, it feels as though we are building a powder keg looking for a spark.

We passed through Dortelweil. Is it like Bielefeld, or is it like Tucson at the edge of the universe? Two hundred years ago, there were only 448 people living in Dortelweil; a hundred-fifty years after that, in 1960, there were 1,690 people. Today, there are more than 7,000, which likely means it’s a suburb of Frankfurt with many residents making the commute into the city. There wasn’t really a valid reason to offer this information, but I was passing through and thought that Dortelweil might need an occasional nod to its existence compared to its powerhouse neighbor down the train track.

Got into Frankfurt to another glorious afternoon, and as quickly as I arrived, I was on my way to Heddenheim to meet with Katharina, Klaus, and Stephanie for dinner. I’m serious about this potential ability to eat Grüne Sosse every day. Somehow, I forgot to take even one photograph of anything while I was visiting; I guess I was content to hang out, chat, and laugh.

Tomorrow will arrive early as we are moving some things to Jutta’s in the early morning, so I’m gonna rip through the few photos I shot today and try to find my eyes shut before midnight. For the record, this is St. Catherine’s Church or St. Katharinenkirche in German.

Day 5 – Frankfurt

Frankfurt, Germany

This is the view out of the bedroom window on Saalburgstrasse 46, where I’m staying in Frankfurt, Germany, also known as Jutta’s apartment. The last few days, this view has been dark and wet due to the rain, but here we are starting a day in beautiful sunlight. Oh, and it’s Saturday, which in Frankfurt means everyone will be out.

Frankfurt, Germany

Okay, where is everyone? It’s not like I left a few minutes after I took that previous photo, as I had some writing chores to tend to, namely yesterday’s blog post. While I write here and there over the course of the day, some things aren’t written until I decide what photos will be posted.

Frankfurt, Germany

Ah, this is where everyone is. Well, not everyone who is someone, but a lot of those who are planning on being part of everyone. Huh? Crowds are lining up for their free COVID tests so they can go shopping, eat at outside tables, and otherwise find their social life. Once they have their results, provided they are negative, they’ll go line up to get in stores. Grocery stores don’t require negative tests, but almost everything else does. These test centers seem to be everywhere, from empty shops to tents, and again, I’d like to reiterate that this version of free is without any cost other than the patience to wait.

Frankfurt, Germany

Guess what mistake I made while considering Anal Fantasy VII – Remake? I didn’t scan the QR code to see where it takes me, but do I really want to end up with some Goat.se-inspired images? Well, I guess I don’t mind because next time I walk by, I’ll be sure to bring up my phone, and if something gripping is found, I’ll share it.

Frankfurt, Germany

I suppose this is as good a place to report on the fact that while I’ve spent five days in Frankfurt and a short while in Wiesbaden, I’ve not been able to find a single homeless encampment yet. As I criss-cross the city, I’m always on the lookout for obvious signs of homeless people, and although I’m confronted with beggars every day, I’ve not seen a single shopping cart of belongings, a car stuffed to the roof with what someone has left, a tent or makeshift shelter crafted from whatever trash can be scrounged from the area.

You have to remember that Frankfurt is like America’s New York City and Berlin like San Francisco, and yet, from my trip to Berlin two years ago or this visit to Frankfurt during a pandemic, there are no homeless shelters or, worse, homeless camps. This isn’t to say that I’ve not seen people who appear to be homeless based on certain physical aspects such as hygiene and clothing, but the visual signs planted across a city, such as in the United States, those I’ve not found yet.

Frankfurt, Germany

This old jail has been abandoned for more than ten years, according to a couple of guys nearby who also told me that new condos are supposed to replace it, but nothing else could be found about its usage or origins. Strange that I only found one other photo on the internet of it.

Frankfurt, Germany

Back when I was living here in Frankfurt, I felt that the markets were a kind of festive celebration of food and socializing as people came out to celebrate the sun and good weather. These open-air markets are experiential explorations on the way to culinary enlightenment, allowing shoppers to sample things that might not be at their local grocery. While out here at the public square, a glass of wine and some hot food likely help erase the blues that can be a part of a city that is often cold and wet and, in winter, has short days and long evenings. Maybe my relationship with food has an unhealthy, obsessive quality, and I need to idealize life around our gastronomical adventures, but it is such a large part of our existence that I think it deserves a pedestal.

Frankfurt, Germany

This photo is for Caroline to share with her boss; she’ll understand the humor.

Frankfurt, Germany

I’m sitting on Töngesgasse while Stephanie talks with Jutta. Prior to this, we were in an amazing vinegar shop called Frankfurter Fass, where at normal times, I’d be able to sample their offerings, but we are not in normal times. This is only a fraction of the vinegar they have on hand and doesn’t include the olive oils and liquors.

It took Stephanie and I a good long while to reach Jutta’s as Stephanie first grabbed some lunch, and we talked for a while. and then we walked on and took another break to talk some more. Finally, we arrived at a happy mother-in-law smiling at the sight of the two of us showing up at her door together. For the next three hours, we talked; well, we did take a few minutes to explain and then showed her some cat videos, you know, those ones with cucumbers, and then we shared Denver The Guilty Dog with her, too. The small egg custard sweet Stephanie gave to Jutta and I, didn’t carry me very long, and shortly before 6:00, I told the ladies I had to go eat because I had found a restaurant on Römer that was not only open but was serving German food. Not just any German food either; I needed Grüne Sosse, and that’s exactly what I had.

Frankfurt, Germany

I was able to get a table under the awnings on the left at Zum Standesämtchen. I might have to mix things up sooner or later, but right now, I’m far away from growing tired of this Frankfurt special green sauce (Grüne Sosse) and Handkäse mit Musik. While I’ve described it before, I’ll share again: Handkäse (Hand Cheese) is called such because it’s formed by hand as opposed to scraping a cheese-like substance from between people’s fingers.

Frankfurt, Germany

What do potatoes and bread have to do with this photo? Other than everything in Germany being built by people who live on these German staples, it was my consumption of these forbidden food items that, for me, the diabetic, requires immediate exercise to exorcise the demons of carb-rich, sugar-creating molecules that want to kill me. Walking helps keep them at bay, while people-watching has its own benefits, though I can’t make a claim of just how that helps me.

Frankfurt, Germany

Then there’s the part of Frankfurt I love, the diversity. Sadly, most of the ethnic groups are just that, grouping. Rarely and usually only among young people do I see mixed ethnicities chatting and hanging out. Like America, Germany needs immigrants to fill the jobs that young Germans don’t want, but sadly, these new growing communities among their ranks are viewed with dismay and suspicion.

The cutest women here are experimenting with fashion, trying to find their own style. They are eclectic and often unique in their own way. How that’s squashed out of them is a function of this culture that I don’t understand. Is it their job requirements, their parents, or some genetic programming that quickly kills their curiosity? Of course, I can only compare this with my wife, who has managed to keep alive her sense of not meeting anyone else’s requirements but her own. With clothes from Sweden, Germany, America, Japan, India, and Croatia, she blends things with her old standards that also allow her a laziness that would see her also happy in a Gopnik style: Adidas and sunflower seeds, it’s a Slav thing.

Frankfurt, Germany

Conformity by playing age roles here in Germany as opposed to America where, as people age, they try their hardest to play the role of appearing perpetually younger. On one side is the tragedy of people giving up the semblance of originality, and on the other are those who appear silly as they give up their middle-aged appearance for a more youthful version. [Photo of Turkish Gopniks]

Frankfurt, Germany

After just five days back in Germany and for the first time in 26 years, I’m walking around studying Frankfurt with an eye towards examining what life is like here now. I mentioned earlier that older people are playing roles; when I arrived back in 1985, those who are currently 70 were only 34, and I saw them all around me every day. At concerts, restaurants, grocery stores, and generally out and about, they were not wearing such practical clothing. Like all of my generalizations, this is not a rule, but it is a thing. Maybe they are just trying to fit in with their elderly peers.

Frankfurt, Germany

My day on the streets of Frankfurt is about done with the continuing effects of jet lag still being felt. I need to make a note to myself to return to the end of Zeil, not far from the old jail, as there are three restaurants next to one another that are extremely popular with the Turkish crowd, the wealthy Turks or at least those that appear so on a Saturday night.

This reminds me that I wanted to share one other observation about life in Frankfurt today: there’s nowhere to go out and party. This hasn’t stopped people’s need to socialize and, if lucky, find someone of potential romantic interest to talk with, so to that end, they are out en masse in the main shopping area here known as Zeil. From the packed Turkish restaurants near Konstablerwache to the square at Hauptwache, thousands of mostly young people meandered about. I was wondering if this was normal here every Saturday now or if this is a response to not being able to go clubbing later and staying out all night.

Well, I’m not looking for a club, nor a bar, just a bed and a good night of rest so I can get going in the morning to visit Worms.

Day 4 – Germany Under The Sun

Bornheim Mitte U-Bahn Station Frankfurt, Germany

Even before leaving Arizona last Monday, I had planned that today (Friday) I’d head out to Wiesbaden and that this is exactly what I’ll do. Since I only slept less than 5 hours last night, I have an abundance of time. I wonder when this all catches up with me. Hopefully, I won’t fall asleep on the train. Time to go.

The rust is showing in my train-catching skills as I walked right up to one leaving for Wiesbaden and failed to pay enough attention to details to get on board. Good thing the next train was only 15 minutes away, and I’m in no hurry. After a short while on the S9 – Richtung Wiesbaden, I was getting quite the shock; the next stop was Gateway Gardens, the old U.S. Military housing area outside the Frankfurt Airport.

Frankfurt, Germany

My original plan was to spend the entire day out in Wiesbaden, but with the combination of poor weather still threatening rain and how much Jutta appears to enjoy my visits, I’m more than likely going to cut my time short so I can visit my mother-in-law before her dinner time.

Near Wiesbaden, Germany

While I’m inclined to put on my headphones and listen to music, I’m also enjoying the sound of the train accelerating, the doors beeping when they are about to shut, and the soothing voice of the person announcing stops along the route. Once we leave the airport station it’s nice to see that there are still woods next to the track, at least for a stretch until we reach Kelsterbach. Oh, I almost forgot to mention the sound of backpacks being taken off and set down.

Wiesbaden, Germany

I recognize nearly nothing at the Wiesbaden main train station. Again, the attempt to return to the familiar and celebrate nostalgia has been foiled. With that realization coming on so fast, the idea jumps into my head that maybe I should jump back on a train and beat a retreat, but I walk on.

Wiesbaden, Germany

I do love the sights here in Germany, and what’s better than red stone contrasting with deep blue skies? This is a corner of Wiesbaden’s main train station.

Wiesbaden, Germany

There’s nothing left in my memory of how I once navigated these streets, so I have to bring up a map and ask for a location that I know still exists, the Wartburg Theater and concert hall. When I see the street name Schwalbachstrasse, a ping of recognition rings loudly. I now try to recollect if there was a particular path I walked to the shops and clubs I’d visit out this way, but nothing looks like it used to. As I walk by this old church, I draw a blank and wonder if I’ve ever seen it before. With plenty of time, I figure I’ll walk back on a different route, and maybe that will kick my memory into recollecting where I’d been.

Wartburg in Wiesbaden, Germany

Now, on Schwalbachstrasse, I’m looking for a hint of an old club I used to love. Its name was Dschungel, a.k.a. the Jungle. A small place that was underground with more progressive/aggressive music compared to the Batschkapp or Cookies over in Frankfurt. I think I found the door with a sign about something to do with music now called The Basement; it kind of fits in the place my memory says it should, just down the street from the Wartburg! It sure seemed further away back then.

A mere few doors down is the Wartburg, where I saw my first two concerts in West Germany, Einsturzende Neubauten and Psychic TV. Those shows were quickly followed by Test Department and Front 242 in the same place. Formative memories for sure, but the experience of seeing the Wartburg again brings me nothing at all.

Wiesbaden, Germany

Seeing that I’m in town, I may as well follow my nose. I’m looking for a Döner shop, and I think I might know where it used to be. The neighborhood it’s in appears to be a kind of Middle East Quarter, and the shop is called Berlin Döner, but is it the one? I talked with the current owner, and he says it’s been here for 50 years, and he’s owned it for the past 13. It’s a good thing he doesn’t open until 10:00, giving me the chance to not ruin what, at one time, I thought was the best Döner I’d ever had. Now, it gets to remain that way.

Since I mentioned that this area had become a predominantly Middle East-influenced neighborhood: I’m reminded why immigration is such a great thing. If it wasn’t for Europe accepting so many immigrants, the diversity of culture here would not be developing the way it is. Yes, there are problems with integrating peoples of other countries, but what it ultimately offers is indispensable. There must be a good dozen small Middle Eastern groceries in the area, while the Harput and Günay families have opened a serious number of businesses along these streets.

Wiesbaden, Germany

What kind of neighborhood has a dozen barbershops? Apparently, this one. My experiences years ago remind me not to be so quick taking photos in places where a bunch of men with black hair and leather jackets are outside smoking and drinking coffee. I had learned pretty quickly after being run off a couple of times by angry people hollering at me. So, I made sure that those around me could see I wasn’t trying to take anyone’s photo. Just what original French tacos are I have no idea, but the logo suggests it’s ice cream. If they were open, I’d walk right in and ask for a carne asada taco and see how far I get.

Wiesbaden, Germany

After a brief couple of hours here, I feel that I’m ready to leave. While the architecture is different than that of Frankfurt, the rest of the businesses are nearly identical. Not much is open and I can’t imagine what else might be found if I continued exploring the city center, which is actually quite small.

By the time I reach the Hauptbahnhof, I’m hungry, but before I find food, I spot a man I’d seen earlier not far from the Wartburg screaming at someone. I figured it was a racial insult at the time, but seeing this guy here, I thought I would get confirmation. Getting his attention, it was apparent he was still a bit agitated, but realizing I had a real question, he asked if he could help me. So I asked him what happened back at the heavy confrontation and he told me that his issue was the man who asked him for money. He also explained that this is one of the young men who are part of the Beggar Mafia that fans out from Frankfurt to beg in the surrounding towns. He sees these people at parties all the time, arriving in expensive Audis doing loads of cocaine. Well, now I know.

Wiesbaden, Germany

Regarding my hunger, a Döner & Pizza shop was close at hand, so I nabbed a chicken Döner as that seems to be the popular choice these days. I’m guessing the meat is cheaper and so they go with that. I should have gone for a traditional Döner while I was in the Middle Eastern Quarter. My stomach is full; I’m on my way to Frankfurt a lot earlier than I could have guessed. The sun is shining, and now I’m overdressed. Here’s to hoping it’s not raining and cold back in Frankfurt.

Frankfurt, Germany

Whoa, it’s beautiful in Frankfurt, and it’s drawing people out.

Frankfurt, Germany

This was my view in the opposite direction.

Busker in Frankfurt, Germany

Needing a coffee and a sweet, I revisited Kleinmarkthalle, picking up a couple of hundred grams of cherries and an oat milk latte. Exiting, I saw the Cuban busker I ran into the other day while it was raining; we nodded hello to each other.  I threw him a few Euros and sat nearby, sipping my coffee and eating cherries. Life is good.

Frankfurt, Germany

A solar halo touching the cross of the Frankfurt Cathedral; I can’t say I’ve ever seen a solar halo or sun dog in Frankfurt. I’ll take this as being a first and that it portends good things.

Museum für Moderne Kunst in Frankfurt, Germany

I want to photograph everything in the city on my way to Jutta’s, as who knows if I’ll get another sunny day in Frankfurt? Just kidding, as bad as the weather is here, I know there will be many more beautiful days as we move into June.

Römer in Frankfurt, Germany

Half-timbered old buildings, socially distanced people, and blue skies, what more could be wished for?

Jutta Engelhardt and John Wise in Frankfurt, Germany

A photo of two not-socially distanced people enjoying it all is what could be wished for and realized.

Jutta Engelhardt in Frankfurt, Germany

I spent the rest of the afternoon with Jutta along the Main River. We just finished crossing Eiserner Steg (Iron Bridge), with Jutta telling me it’s been a long time since she had last been on this side of the river. Well, we need proof then that you made it over here. I know; let’s take your photo with those two cherubs so others might know of the day that One-Eyed Jutta crossed the Main River. Why she felt the need to grope its butt is a mystery.

By the way, as my mother-in-law tells it in her thick German pirate accent, “The river was churning dark and cold back during the winter of ’42 when my parrot attempted to pluck my eye from its socket. I pulled that still-connected eye from the beak of what would soon be a dead bird and shoved it back in my skull; I am a doctor, after all, but damned if I’d ever see from it again. That’s how I went blind in my left eye, and it’s the tale as I know it.”

On the Main River in Frankfurt, Germany

Okay, that’s not what Jutta told me, nor is it how she lost sight in that eye, but so what? We were out here to laugh and have fun.

Jutta Engelhardt in Frankfurt, Germany

Buying Jutta an ice cream is a surefire way to have fun. I had a coffee and sparkling water as we just continued to sit in the sun. The day has turned out beautiful but I’m starting to melt. From freezing cold to hot from one day to the next. People watching was working out well with all the Frankfurters needing to leave their caves to soak up all of this vitamin D. After nearly four hours with my mother-in-law, it was time to take her back home and for me to head back to my side of town.

But first, I needed to get food out of the way. Going to dinner proved a bit difficult as I’d originally planned on dropping in on Sachsenhausen for an outdoor seating establishment serving good old traditional German fare, but nope, not tonight; they are all still closed. Back across the river, I was hungry enough not to be too choosy and looked in on a place called Naïv, which has lots of beer, Handkäse, and burgers. Well, at least they have “Hand Cheese”.

Pulling out my computer to write some of this down is super awkward as everyone else here is having beers and meeting with friends, while I’m the single solo visitor and the only one with a giant digital device open. Spoke too soon as another English speaker across from me just opened hers. Then, in a flash, my dinner is delivered, and so it turns out I have no time to write anyway. I’ll definitely feel better putting this thing away.

Returned to Saalburgstrasse early tonight as I’m exhausted. Didn’t sort much other than books, and I spotted Jutta’s driver’s license from 1957. She was only 22 years old in this image and ten years away from giving birth to her second daughter, my wife, Caroline. Jutta had already lived through ten years of war and 12 years of recovery and rebuilding following the conclusion of World War II. Her mom was bitter at her losses, including her cherished son, and marriage to someone she didn’t really love was on the horizon.

On one hand, the woman in the image above is just another random human being, but more importantly, she was becoming the person who would most influence my best friend. Even after ten visits to America and the over 30 years I’ve known Jutta, I can’t ever really know her from the formative years she struggled to try and make sense of a chaotic society that was forced into broad sweeping changes that would alter the culture of Germany and have the Germans looking deep within.

Schulatlas from 1927 with U.S. Map - Printed in Germany

From her books, I found The Book of Mormon, gifted to her by a friend named Marianna back in 1988. An old book about San Francisco and a couple about various Native American tribes were buried in her collection. They all appear to pre-date her trips to America unless she bought yellowed old copies from a used book store at some time, but based on her other books, it looks like Jutta always bought new copies of what she was interested in. Stranger yet is an old “School Atlas” from 1927 with markings on the map of the United States. Notes on the edges of the map point to things about the Ozarks, tides, and islands, things a student might write as reminders from their lessons, but the markings that draw a line between Denver and Phoenix are the most curious.

I cannot believe that Jutta would mark up an heirloom that might have belonged to her father in order to remind herself of her last trip to America when she flew into Denver, and I picked her up for the drive to Phoenix. Maybe she did, but I like the mystery of believing that someone out of her past was foreshadowing a page out of Jutta’s future.

No longer able to keep my eyes open and brain reeling from exhaustion I was able to fall asleep at 10:30 and sleep all the way through to morning when I picked up again to finish this post.

Day 3 – Frankfurt

Jutta's bed in Frankfurt, Germany

After almost six consecutive hours of sleep, I woke at a more reasonable time of 6:15 a.m. I had to rip some paragraphs out of my Day Zero blog entry that Caroline found challenging to post and so it finally was pushed to being published. I can’t recommend reading its remaining voluminous 3,300 words that emerged from the transition zone between leaving America and arriving in Europe as it’s so much rehash of me saying blah blah blah, but then again, I feel that way about most all I share here. At least some of the photos are nice.

Then it was on to Day 2 in order to finish writing what I couldn’t put down last night because I was so tired. Between sentences, I was able to get in my ablutions and began to feel like a routine of normal life was starting to settle in. Well, as normal as things can be while adopting a new (albeit temporary) routine thousands of miles away from my wife and home.

Jutta's desk in Frankfurt, Germany

Distracted by a fit of inspiration, I started writing about my mother-in-law in another document that may or may not be published here, but that’s beside the point other than to excuse myself for the lack of blogging here. Before I go much further, I’ll explain these two photos. The first is the bed I’m sleeping in, which was Jutta’s, and before her, it was her brother’s. She believes the mattress had once been her father’s but can’t be certain if it’s been replaced in the intervening 100 or so years. I’ll confirm with Stephanie (my sister-in-law) if she had it replaced in the past (let’s hope). The second photo is of Jutta’s desk which was the desk of her ex-husband Hanns’ father. For the time being, this desk is where I’m writing, as well as preparing the photos I’m posting, in the late evening and early morning.

All of us humans need beautiful things to catch our eye and bask in the good fortune that we might have been able to decorate our dwelling in some way that appeals to our sense of the aesthetic. We grow older, and yet these objects tell us stories whose full depth no one else can really fathom how we see others and how they might make our hearts smile.

Heaven, children, home, and the art of life have decorated the walls of Jutta’s apartment, but now these things must all go somewhere. Her new place is quite tiny and will only hold a fraction of the things held so meaningfully by my mother-in-law. How to decide what is parted with when so much is deeply embued with memories?

I do not know the story of the image on the left, but I do know that the man in the middle is Wilhelm Linnenkohl, Jutta’s father. My mother-in-law has never been able to speak highly enough about her terrific father, and it’s obvious she felt incredibly close to this man. Sadly, the same can’t be said about her mother, who doesn’t warrant even a single photo to be found anywhere in this large collection of mementos.

The cake plate from a local Konditorei was painted by a very young Caroline when she was in elementary school. If her memory serves her right, that’s her mom in the middle and Caroline in the back. Of all the times I’ve been in this apartment, I somehow have never really seen this picture, and if I did, I never considered its provenance or how my mother-in-law connects to the memory of her then 7 – or 8-year-old child.

Things brought home from Jutta’s many journeys to America were never very far from her heart. As a matter of fact, they were beside her during those times she sat at this desk I’m sitting at tonight. While I write on my computer, she wrote by hand her entire life in the chicken scratch appropriate for a doctor.

Speaking of provenance, there are no markings on these treasures which makes it nearly impossible to try selling them as what is the story behind them? Stephanie doesn’t believe anything in her cabinets was used, not even once.

I’m thinking that I need to use some of these so their function might extend beyond decoration.

The one thing from Jutta’s effects Caroline and I both love is this clock. How it’ll get to Arizona, if we even ship it there, is in question, but one thing is certain: we’d like to get it repaired and listen to its chimes into the future.

Now, on with the day. When I finally broke away from the apartment, I took an hour-long walk down some random streets, trying to follow my dysfunctional inner map to Jutta’s new place. When I reached the zoo, I started getting the idea that I might be heading in the wrong direction, so I checked a map, and sure enough, I had to do a little backtracking and alter my route. My pace was slow as I was just as interested in finding what I didn’t know I was interested in yet as getting to my destination.

It’s easy to have the impression that Frankfurt is a shiny modern city filled with glass and steel and high rents exclusively for the wealthy, but you can also find many old buildings in varying states of disrepair.

Maybe returning to the earth is just a natural part of life that plays its role, taking back all that it has given. Even the cars are being pulled into the camouflage, so we might not see them disappearing.

There are 12,000 markers on this old Jewish cemetery on Battonnstrasse next to the Museum Judengasse here in Frankfurt. Twelve thousand people, whose names are impossible to remember, with lives unfulfilled with the satisfaction of dying of natural causes surrounded by loved ones. These souls were exterminated by hate, and they had no avenue or wall to post their grievances as the world turned its back on a harsh reality. It’s somber to slowly walk by and try reading birthdays and names while everyone else walking by, apparently tuning out what this memorial represents.

Who were you, little Robert Goldschmidt, when you died in a concentration camp before you ever reached the age of 8? Not only were you dragged from home and shipped almost 1,000 km to die with your family, but you also missed any kind of real childhood and fun that all people should know. An anonymous marker that is effectively hidden among the thousands of others on this wall will never really tell anything about you or your dreams. All we know of your existence is that you were born Jewish and died in the heinous manmade hell known as Auschwitz by the hand of monsters.

Getting to Jutta’s just as she finished lunch worked out for us, sitting a good long while talking about her fears, inspirations, guilt, and what comes next. We were able to have a coffee delivered, which was great as, once again, the heavy rain kept us in. Maybe I need to try visiting early in the morning or late in the day, as the rain seems to be held at bay during those hours.

It’s 4:00 p.m. when I’m able to grab a table at Hauptwache Cafe to sit down for an early dinner, or is this a late lunch? I’ve never eaten a meal here, only Apfelstrudel. I started with an order of Handkäse mit Musik, naturally, of course, followed by Wiener Schnitzel with Grüne Sosse because that’s the way it has to be for the universe to function.

The pleasure of being ignored for a meal and having to gain the attention of the server is a luxury. I finished my lunch over 20 minutes ago, and my plate continues to sit on my table. In a moment, I’ll order dessert, though I hate admitting this here where Caroline is going to learn that I had another sweet, so it goes; she knew I’d be indulging myself. Oh my GOD! Hauptwache Cafe does not have Apfelstrudel on the menu. The menu was changed due to the pandemic, and while the server sold me an apple pie she insisted was great, I was seriously disappointed.

Gray skies are not very motivating to wander far as the chance of rain remains ever-present. Not that I’m leaving anytime soon from this normally packed establishment, but I am aware that I need to do something or other within the next 4 or 5 hours. I have a sense of needing to do important things that use my time wisely and that I don’t waste a valuable moment from this amazing opportunity. Yet, maybe being present can be enough.

I’m an experience glutton with an inner voice that yells at me: do not relent; go out and find something new! Hah, so what am I doing at Hauptwache Cafe enjoying a two-hour lazy meal? Well, I fooled you; I snarfed most of my dessert and decided to play it safe by calling it quits so I could get out and walk this off. So, with no time to waste, I’m taking a pause on this side of my journey to see where I end up.

Drawn to the main train station, which always has had a pull on me, and so through the high rises, I walked into the rotten funk between the heavens and a nearly defunct red-light district filled with sketchy types that seem to be eyeballing passersby looking for victims. Sure, I’m a bit paranoid, but I think when we are in seedy areas of downtown, it is smart to move with purpose while not making eye contact with a soul.

I’m in love with these ground-based rocketships. They speed effortlessly over the European landscape, cutting the journey time by car from 6 hours from here to Paris, France, to only 3 hours. Someday, you should be so lucky to have a full cup of coffee or a beer brought to you in first class and watch as not a drop is spilled in the quiet of the cabin, hauling you at 300 km/h (186 mph) across Europe.

Those things that can’t move might grow moss on them in this damp climate. but the same happening to the population here is a strange phenomenon to witness. There’s a tragedy to covering so much of the city in just a few days with a constant reminder that so few people are here and even fewer visiting from anywhere else. Germany is a land of many cultural traditions that bring people together for music, talks, coffee, cake, shopping, long dinners, many festivals, and historic destinations. It’s incredible to think that my fellow countrymen were bursting at the seams due to the most minor pandemic-related restrictions based primarily around masks while Europe has had to put on hold the heart of their society.

I remain incredulous that I’m actually in the city of Frankfurt am Main, living in memories that should be being shared with Caroline, whose connection to this place is far, far greater than mine. Yes, I feel guilty for the luxury of exploring her birthplace in a way I never had the mind for when I was younger, and I’m guessing the same would go for her. I’m lucky that communication tools are what they are and that she and I can chat all day, that I can share a video call with her and her mom as I did again today, and that I can capture and write all this stuff that may not matter to anyone else but for her, a surrogate experience with the man she loves is better than nothing.

Keep Entrance Clear Day and Night. These signs are ubiquitous across Frankfurt, as are the bicycle lane and one-way signs, stickers demanding that fascism doesn’t have a place in Frankfurt, and buttons to summon a change in signals so pedestrians can cross the many streets required to get around. I’ve done my fair share of walking this city today. I covered 16 kilometers (10 miles), which saved me $6 for a day pass for the train. I wonder what tomorrow brings?