Death Valley Signs of Life

Death Valley National Park, California

Not much death happening around here at this corner of Death Valley.

Devil's Golf Course at Death Valley National Park, California

Just a bunch of life from what we can see. This is the Devil’s Cornfield, made up of clumps of soil weathered by aeolian winds with arrow weeds growing atop of them. What are Aeolian winds? From Wikipedia, I quote: “Aeolian processes, also spelled eolian, pertain to wind activity in the study of geology and weather and specifically to the wind’s ability to shape the surface of the Earth (or other planets). Winds may erode, transport, and deposit materials and are effective agents in regions with sparse vegetation, a lack of soil moisture, and a large supply of unconsolidated sediments. Although water is a much more powerful eroding force than wind, aeolian processes are important in arid environments such as deserts.”

Death Valley National Park, California

Proof that water can run pretty deep here when it does rain, or how does one explain this phenomenon?

Jutta Engelhardt and Caroline Wise in Death Valley National Park, California

Living in Arizona, we have come to not see names of places as literals, such as Bloody Basin, which is not full of blood, and Big Bug Creek, well, maybe the big bugs are now extinct. So when you see Salt Creek on the map in Death Valley and everything tells you that this dryest of dry places is tough on life, who would ever expect to find Salt Creek flowing with water supporting a small marsh? Salt Creek turns out to be the remnant of Lake Manly, which 12,000 years ago during the Holocene was still a real lake before the area turned to desert. Amazingly, underneath all of this scorching desert lies one of the world’s largest aquifers, the legacy of Lake Manly. At Badwater Basin, one can see signs of the aquifer in the small areas covered by a thin layer of water.

Death Valley National Park, California

Not far from the Devil’s Cornfield, we are now visiting the Devils Golf Course.

Death Valley National Park, California

I’d venture that these are the petrified waveforms that froze in time back when the devil was playing golf and listening to whatever kind of music a devil listens to, probably AC/DC.

Jutta Engelhardt and Caroline Wise in Death Valley National Park, California

How lucky we are that on this particular weekend in this most inhospitable of landscapes known as Death Valley, we would find wildflowers in bloom.

Death Valley National Park, California

Sand, flowers, rocks, satan, and snow.

Death Valley National Park, California

There seems to be more water flowing here in Death Valley than one would imagine.

Death Valley National Park, California

After taking a wrong turn here at the Bennetts Long Campsite many years ago, a group of people heading for California’s gold rush area was effectively trapped due to lack of water and navigating skills. While a person did walk about 250 miles looking for help, some of the party died here, hence the naming of the place that would become known as Death Valley.

Death Valley National Park, California

We explored a side canyon with a name that has been lost in time.

Update: In 2023, we took a hike up Golden Canyon, this is that canyon.

Caroline Wise in Death Valley National Park, California

Does my wife have bird-like features, or is it just the weird camera angle?

Death Valley National Park, California

The sun is getting low, and soon, we’ll be overtaken by hunger. Better head for the exit.

Death Valley National Park, California

Tomorrow, we will take in the view from above.

Jutta On The Road – Day 2

Caroline Wise and Jutta Engelhardt in Death Valley National Park California 2005

Disclaimer: This blog entry wasn’t written until 15 years after the trip. It should be noted that it was a huge mistake to have not written it way back when. Sometimes, after writing so much about other days, it happens that at the time directly after the trip (or even during), I convince myself that the details are not that important. Years later, these details are that important, and pulling them out of foggy memories is difficult. The photos help and often leave clues, and then Caroline’s memories are usually far clearer than mine. With that said, here goes.

Little did we know just how exotic and meaningful a stop in Death Valley National Park would be to Jutta, but we learned on approach that this was a dream come true. She couldn’t believe that she would ever experience this iconic out-of-the-way spot on earth in person. Had we known this fact, I would have planned more time for us to be here, though a cooler time of year might have worked out better for her.

Death Valley National Park California 2005

On our way into the park, we stumbled upon these two guys on the south end of West Side Road near Shoreline Butte in Death Valley. They had been out here since 5:00 p.m. the day before. The previous day’s high temperature was 112 degrees (44 Celsius), and by 8:00, when we pulled over to offer assistance, it was already nearly 90 degrees (32 Celsius). Three other cars had passed them and never stopped. After supplying the men with water, fruit cups, and granola bars, we reported them to a park ranger at the Death Valley Visitors Center and were assured help was on the way.

Death Valley National Park California 2005

For those who know, this is the approach to Bad Water.

Caroline Wise and Jutta Engelhardt in Death Valley National Park California 2005

Yes, it was already hot for Jutta out here, and it was little comfort for her that in a few hours, it would be 20 degrees warmer.

Death Valley National Park California 2005

Good thing walking on a dry salt lake was so enchanting that she didn’t give much thought to anything other than the magic of being in Death Valley.

Death Valley National Park California 2005

I think Jutta was surprised by the water in the park as it was her impression that there would be none.

Caroline Wise and Jutta Engelhardt in Death Valley National Park California 2005

While no story exists about the details of this 15-year-old journey, I’m happy to have our photos that tell at least part of the narrative.

Death Valley National Park California 2005

No other photo of this exists in the history of the human race, nor can one ever be taken in the future. That is how important it is for all of us to get out and see our ever-changing world.

Caroline Wise and Jutta Engelhardt in Death Valley National Park California 2005

Sand dunes are a new concept to Jutta. While she’s been to various beaches, never had she walked over a sand dune in the middle of a desert.

Death Valley National Park California 2005

And with this departing view of the park, we were once again underway to points further west.

The rivers were running high with snowmelt; we were just happy to see lots of water before reaching the sea.

The contrast between forest, meadow, and desert is not lost on us as we stop to grab a keepsake for the memories.

I can’t tell you if there’s a corner of California that isn’t astonishingly beautiful.

What’s not to love about the view?

And before we knew it we were in the San Simeon area and visiting the elephant seals once more. Eight years ago, during Jutta’s first visit to the States, we had brought her up this coast and it was on that trip that all three of us had our first encounter with these beautiful creatures. We are staying in town at the Sea Breeze Inn so we can have another visit with the seals in the morning. The room cost us $79 plus tax.

Death Valley to L.A. – Day 1

Caroline Wise and John Wise in Death Valley National Park in California

I have no idea what Caroline was doing or thinking as I was taking this selfie of us visiting Death Valley National Park but this is one of the cuter photos of her in my book. It seemed like a good weekend to dip our toe into the hottest National Park in America, and so here we are on June 1st and thinking, “Well, maybe January would have been cooler?”

The way things started, though, was different, and while maybe we should have left Friday night, it was 7:00 a.m. this morning and as good a time as any to head west. We were only going to Los Angeles when we’d left, but then, in Quartzsite, I had the bright idea we should deviate from that plan and go to Death Valley. So here we are.

On our way, we drove up the 95, which parallels the Colorado River, for a while before entering the deep desert. In Needles, we merge onto Interstate 40 for a short while until we reach Kelbaker Road, going north through the Mojave Preserve. In the small town of Baker, we have one of those moments where you slap your head and ask, “What the hell is this?” The thing that triggered it was a sign saying, “Welcome to Bun Boy Territory.” Too bad it’s not late enough to check in otherwise, it would be party night at the Bun Boy Restaurant and Motel!

Death Valley National Park in California

Bare naked rocks look like a geological marvel while just sitting here, having all the life baked out of them in the driest place of all North America.

Death Valley National Park in California

Where are the other visitors? It’s summer vacation, and we seem to be the only ones here.

Death Valley National Park in California

We can’t even find something cold to drink; all there is here is this Badwater and salt. Getting serious, I have to say, “Wow!” to being here 282 feet below sea level while it’s 118 degrees (48 c). This place is as exotic and intriguing as anything we might see in Yellowstone, just a lot dryer and, at times, nearly as stinky.

Death Valley National Park in California

I wonder how many people and desert-dwelling creatures have looked up and seen clouds forming overhead and were hoping for a respite in the form of a light shower, only to witness the clouds burn off or drift over the horizon.

Death Valley National Park in California

We entered from the southeast and headed to the exit in the northwest as we were trying to get a general feel for what Death Valley is like. Should this ever be our only visit to this National Park, at least we’ll have some impressions.

Death Valley National Park in California

Boiling hot temperatures, bad water, baked mountains, bleached salt, stark skies, and now cracked earth where water once was. All the iconic stuff coming together to make this a true albeit brief Death Valley experience.

Death Valley National Park in California

Wow, and now we even get sand dunes. Just past here, we will turn left onto Emigrant Canyon Road before turning right on Wildrose Road as we head for the exit. We had stopped at the visitor center to inquire about relatively accessible scenic roads we could also visit in the park, and the ranger told us about a back road that is well maintained so that we could travel it, and that’s what we’re going to do.

Wild Donkey's in Death Valley National Park in California

What the ranger didn’t tell us about were the donkey thugs trying to hide out and blend in as we drove by down this old dusty road. While they tried to look intimidating, threatening even, we knew that while they had guns, with those hooves, they’d never be able to pull the trigger. I yelled at them to go home and get domesticated, which apparently infuriated these asses, and they clambered for their weapons.

Wild Donkey's in Death Valley National Park in California

While they were distracted trying to show us how tough they were, we sped away. Just then, Becky bolted out of a nearby ravine, braying for us to save her from a life of servitude in the hostile confines of not just Death Valley but the uncultured brutes that were holding her prisoner. Caroline, without skipping a beat, jumped into the back seat and threw open the door and then just as quickly was back up front as Becky leaped into the car, and I raced out of the park. The last we saw her, she was frolicking off to the North Haiwee Reservoir near the Coco Range Wilderness Area, looking relieved and free to pursue her dreams. Becky will always be in our hearts as the only donkey ever brave enough to leave her burden behind and have the strength to choose her own path.

Mix Bowl Cafe in Pomona, California

What a busy day with a lot of miles driven. Lucky us Mix Bowl Cafe in Pomona is open late. This is our favorite little Thai joint in the L.A. area. Koo-chai and a shared plate of pad kee mow at 10:30 will always hit the spot. Over at California Inn, they still had a room for us, but to our horror, the rooms were being remodeled, and our satanic floor tile in the bathroom was gone. Oh, the sadness and tragedy brought to an otherwise perfect day. In another post, I’ll share the tile and what I’m referring to.