Oregon – Day 4

Oregon Coast

Toys and Time: Do You Have Enough?

I’m sitting about 100 feet above the Pacific Ocean in Lincoln City on a sunny morning, following a three-mile walk on the beach to get breakfast at the first place we came across. Jay, the owner of Vivian’s Restaurant & BBQ, greeted us, was our server, and a lot more. His place is named after his in-laws, and the guy truly loves his place on Earth. We didn’t talk much about the food, but we did get a lesson in the behaviors and language of the local birds.

An egret that was on the prowl when we arrived makes way for the heron that is dominant along this small lake that feeds the “world’s shortest river,” a.k.a. D River. Jay told us about this pecking order in addition to his observations of the gulls that keep sentry nearby to announce to the rest of the flock in hearing distance that the ducks are being fed. The ducks don’t get much, but what they do get is unbuttered. They don’t butter the toast here because kids can’t help but feed the birds, nor can Jay, and at least this way, the birds aren’t getting the worst of what we can offer them.

Because we had time to sit awhile and listen to the proprietor, we were able to share something that would have never been known about this little corner of the world had we been in a hurry or simply driven to some fast food joint. Time was the precious commodity that gave this experience to us.

Back in our room at the Pelican Shores Inn, I opened up my computer and checked to see how many people commented on the photo we posted as we started our walk up the beach. On my phone, I play with two people who are battling me in Words with Friends. I open a blank document and look for inspiration to start writing. Before finding it, I make the rounds through my current favorite websites, such as KVRaudio, Pinchplant, Synthtopia, the Reaktor user library, and even AnalogueHaven, as I’m always tempting myself to throw another Eurorack module into a shopping cart.

This is my brief dip into a few of the places that satisfy my need to play with toys. While this very computer I’m writing on is a primary tool in my toy box, there are other gadgets and dreams of new hobbies that are yet to drain my wallet.

Just for your knowledge, this computer is not something I do “chores” with – it is essential to my daily fun. Not only do I scour the world for information or keep abreast of what my friends are eating, but I also play. Sitting on my taskbar are tools for making 3D art, sculpting, painting, photo manipulation, creating audio samples, composing music, editing video, and then a couple of things I don’t even know how to use, but someday I’ll open them up, stream in a tutorial and know as little about it as I do some other things, but I’m happy.

So here on vacation, I have the best of all worlds: toys, time, and things to do, such as walks along the ocean and eating. In other words, I’m creating experiences. I’m not watching television; I’m not at the hookah lounge watching TV and smoking; I’m not asking if you’d like fries with that – this is my time, and I’d venture a wager that not enough of us do that.

But now it’s about to become housekeeping time as our visit to this hotel is coming to a close. In a few minutes, we have to check out so my thoughts will have to continue down the road and from another experience.

Lincoln City, Oregon

View from our room. That was the beach we walked to the left on for breakfast and subsequently returned on.

Caroline Wise under the rainbow on the Oregon coast

Someday, I’ll count the number of photos we’ve taken of one or both of us standing under a rainbow, but for now, I’ll just put it out there that it’s probably been thousands. Okay, so I’ll admit right now that this is likely loaded with exaggeration, but that’s the size of the fish, and I’m sticking to it.

Caroline Wise at Toasted Cafe in Depoe Bay, Oregon

In continuing our theme of going slow on this trip, we stopped at Toasted in Depoe Bay for some coffee, knitting, and writing. If you could read the screen, you’d see this next block of text as it was being written:

Caroline’s eating Toe-Jam in the rain while Soft Cell asks Where Has Our Love Gone? That’s our midday on the Oregon coast. I should offer some clarification: we are in a coffee shop out of the rain, and Toe-Jam is this shop’s name for whole-grain bread with apricot jam and feta; the eighties music, sadly, is what it is. This is likely the first time we’ve ever stopped in Depoe Bay for more than staring at the surf that puts on a great display here as a blow-hole shoots water up out of the rocks during certain tidal events.

Today though, is gray, and the sea is relatively calm. We’re not worried about things as the weather is in constant flux and can change every ten minutes.

Her feeding has me feeling like it’s my time to do likewise, and so instead of leaving this to chance, I search for my best options; Sea Hag in Depoe Bay or Local Ocean Seafoods in Newport. The Hag wins for the name, but the fresh fish options down the road look to be the better draw. So I’ll pack up and get going before I ever really got going here in this meager attempt at writing something or other.

Local Ocean Seafoods in Newport, Oregon

Late lunch meets early dinner, or will we throw caution to the wind and overeat? Our first encounter with Local Ocean Seafoods in Newport, Oregon, will not be our last. This dish of whatever it was, must have been yummy because the place impressed both of us.

The view from Local Ocean Seafood in Newport, Oregon

The sky has opened up to let the sunshine through once more in the time it took us to drive from Depoe Bay to Newport and have lunch.

Oregon Coast

This is the rest of the day where the ocean, sun, clouds, birds, sand, and other elements command our attention, and we do little else than offer our obeisance.

Oregon Coast

It was a long walk down the beach to this very short cave and a unique view of the ocean.

Seagull staring me in the eye on the Oregon Coast

Who’s looking at whom?

Seagulls on the Oregon Coast

Just taking it all in and giving things very little thought.

Oregon Coast

The view from our room in Yachats and the end of my brief writing for this day. Sometimes, you just gotta chill.

Oregon – Day 3

Drift wood on the Oregon Coast

Driftwood is a perfect metaphor for a life being well-lived. Take time, lots of time, and grow. Go deep and, with the seasons, allow the inevitable change to take hold. When you are still young and green, you can tower over those around you, grab hold of the infinite sunshine, and absorb as much as you can. Your energy is boundless, your thirst rapacious. Then, at your most confident, another tree eclipses you and is crowding you out. Its leaves are greener and somehow fresher. You never even noticed that it was standing taller than you while you were busy admiring yourself. Then a wind storm comes along, and the roots that kept you grounded have grown weak, and you topple, but you are not gone. There is still a path for your continued contribution. One is that you will be a fertile place for other life to take hold as you nourish their existence and offer shelter to help them along on their journey. The other path will take you from the place you called home and deliver you on an adventure across waterways and seas where, although you turn gray with age, you become an exquisite object of beauty. I am becoming driftwood.

Coastal Oregon

Channels of light, blankets of shade, paths of wind, and bodies of water: this landscape is a mutable canvas. How do we adopt this natural art as mental persuasion which alters our mindscape by shifting the elements and allowing us to glow in a similar beauty such as that which we find in our travels and discoveries? It’s easy to fall in love with the surface of things; it takes time and hard work to understand the deeper intricacies of just what it is that creates such magnificence.

Path to the sea on the Oregon coast

Is the path always straight ahead? Is it mostly clear? Once you reach the other side, is the depth beyond your ability to make instant sense of the situation, or might you already be floating on that which you brought with you in order to be prepared for taking on new challenges? Finding new things in previously unseen places is one of the human rewards where our imagination allows us to discover a wealth of experience that feeds our dreams. On the other hand, it is also quite likely that we never put ourselves in a situation where we must look into the unknown down a path we’d prefer we’d never seen.

Oregon Coast

Moments of reflection are transitional and dependent on perfect circumstances. Dry sand and turbulent water are not conducive to mirroring anything, though both are fun and allow us an amount of carefree play within and upon them. When the water surface is calm or a thin sheen of water washes over the beach, we are presented with a clarity of the reverse image of what is being reflected. For those moments, we see the same world differently. In our minds, we must find the calm waters of existence with an added sheen of knowledge washing over our senses to find ourselves reflected differently than the same old picture that makes up the majority of the time we are present.

Oregon Coast

Rays of golden light and horizons of days to come as experience washes in with the tide. We are present and aware of our changing world in subtle ways unique to each of our perspectives. Just 30 feet below or 100 feet south, the view of reality is vastly different compared to those who might observe the scene from yet another vantage point.

Oregon Coast

Maelstrom and light, calm and darkness, fluid and solid, life and death. These all exist simultaneously in the narrowest slice and in the broadest sense of all that is before me, and yet within, we are encouraged to harness the calm, tame the darkness, and embrace life. Yet we are complex composites of the elements that have created our world, not a tiny subset to be ordered and made tidy. My inner turmoil is as chaotic as the crashing waves; the light used to find my way dims and becomes familiar with being shrouded in bad weather. I am fluid and try to be solid; my life is grand, and death is inevitable. The interplay and dancing of my constituent parts are my landscape, with roots that ebb and flow and yet allow me to take unforeseen paths. After my arrival, I gained perspective where knowledge can be reflected upon others I might encounter on this adventure.

Oregon – Day 1

Caroline Wise at Pine State Biscuits in Portland, Oregon

We flew into Portland, Oregon, late last night and went directly to Rodeway Inn by the airport, where we’ve stayed a number of times and where we’ll stay at the end of this trip before flying back to Phoenix in 10 days. An excellent breakfast and knitting were had at Pine State Biscuits in downtown Portland, and then it was time to braid the Columbia River on our way to the Pacific.

Caroline Wise and John Wise making a pit stop at 420 Holiday in Longview, Washington

Recreational marijuana is legal up here in Oregon and Washington, so why not stop and inspect the goods as the last time I looked at legal marijuana in a shop was in Amsterdam. This particular shop in Longview, Washington, seemed fitting to the idea of a vacation with the name 420 Holiday. If you are wondering if we bought some weed, come on, do we look like stoners?

Caroline Wise in front of a Welcome to Washington state sign

From Oregon over to Washington and then Washington back to Oregon.

Wahkiakum County Ferry on the Columbia River between Oregon and Washington

And then Washington back to Oregon, or something like that. This is the Wahkiakum County Ferry on the Columbia River between Puget Island, Washington, and Westport, Oregon, and it is the last ferry on the river before it dumps into the ocean. Every chance we get, we’ll opt to take a ferry, even if it’s a bit out of the way.

Astoria, Oregon looking across the Columbia River to Washington

Made it to Astoria, Oregon, and while I’m tempted to drive over that bridge into Washington to go get a coffee and a pastry at Chinook Coffee (love this little roadside shack), we are here early enough to go to this place on the river that has been closed by the time we are passing through on our other visits.

Whalebone Yarn Swift at the Columbia River Maritime Museum in Astoria, Oregon

The day started with knitting, so let’s continue with a theme; here at the Columbia River Maritime Museum is a Whalebone Yarn Swift, which was used to hold a skein of yarn while it is wound into a ball.

The Light Ship Columbia at the Maritime Museum in Astoria, Oregon

This floating lighthouse is a Light Ship named Columbia and is a National Historic Landmark. The mouth of the Columbia and the crossing of the “bar” is notoriously treacherous, and this “Light Ship”  helped guide the way. As you might deduce from the available light, we were too late to visit this landmark and so now we have one more reason to come back to Oregon.

Utah to Oregon Road Trip – Day 8

Battery Point Lighthouse in Crescent City, California

We stayed near the water’s edge last night with the Battery Point Lighthouse in our sights. This is nearly from the same vantage point as last night.

Caroline Wise and John Wise at Trees of Mystery in Klamath, California

After more than a dozen years passing “TREES OF MYSTERY” and then repeating the phrase in a deep sing-song voice for days we have decided to finally visit this cheesy roadside attraction that pulls in the tourists. Today, we were the tourists.

Trees of Mystery in Klamath, California

Big trees are what you find up the hill.

Trees of Mystery in Klamath, California

After a stop in the Redwoods National Park and the obligatory Junior Ranger Badge hunt, it was high time to hit the road and finish the 400 miles we’d allocated to drive today that would deliver us to San Jose, California, for the night.

Utah to Oregon Road Trip – Day 7

On the Cape Arago Highway in Charleston, Oregon

A new corner of the coast we’ve never visited before or one that I have conveniently forgotten, maybe we passed through at night? This is the view from the bridge crossing into Charleston, Oregon, on Thanksgiving day. We only have 155 miles planned for today’s drive down to Crescent City, California, so we’ll be sure to take a leisurely stroll along the way, maybe two. Upon consulting with the wife she assures me that we’ve been through the area but that maybe we’d been traveling north and weather conditions were poor.

Trail to Bastendorff Beach in Charleston, Oregon

The short trail to Bastendorff Beach, where we’ve been warned not to eat the shellfish as they are toxic. No log rolling in the surf either, as it’s been deemed dangerous enough that we’ve been requested to stay off of them. Seems there is nothing fun to do here. Should also inform you that the sign told us that pallet burning is prohibited, although, on another part of the sign, it certainly encouraged us to make tracks and move quickly to higher ground if we feel the ground shake as we are in a Tsunami hazard zone.

Shore Acres State Park in Oregon

Just a few minutes down the road, we are at Shore Acres State Park, which was originally the estate home of a lumber baron until the place burned down and the owner sold the land to the state.

Shore Acres State Park in Oregon

Poor weather on a previous visit held us back from exploring the area, and to be frank, you don’t see much of this stuff from the car. We are still at Shore Acres.

Caroline Wise at Shore Acres State Park in Oregon

While the shadow gives it away, there was a moment when I was looking at Caroline resting on this rock protrusion that is about as wide and long as she is wide and tall that I thought she was hovering at this impossible angle. The illusion for that moment was perfect.

Shore Acres State Park in Oregon

Sometimes, I have to post a photo, though I don’t have a lot to say about the moment because there was something about the composition and conversation with my memory that demands I share this, if, for no other reason than when Caroline and I look back at this in years to come, we get to ask ourselves for the countless time, “Wow, did we really get to do all this?”

Shore Acres State Park in Oregon

The intricate detail of features that look like pockets, cubby holes, and those hay bundles next to road construction that are supposed to control drainage are all over this rock outcropping. Wish someone could tell me what the fossil record suggests happened to create these intricate patterns here at Shore Acres.

Trail at Cape Arago State Park in Oregon

While I marked this image as being a trail at Cape Arago State Park, I’m no longer sure; I guess we’ll just have to return to this spot someday and hope to note where this is and then update the entry.

Looking south towards Table Rock near Bandon, Oregon

The day is just zipping by with us nearing Bandon, Oregon. We are looking south, just north of town, with one of those features being called Table Rock.

Face Rock in Bandon, Oregon

For obvious reasons, this is called Face Rock.

View from Gravel Point at the Face Rock State Scenic Viewpoint

With people standing where they are it just became apparent just how low the tide is, time to look for tide pools. We are standing on Gravel Point at the Face Rock State Scenic Viewpoint in Bandon.

On the beach at Port Orford, Oregon

This beach at Port Orford, Oregon, will be our last stop of the day before moving on to our destination down in California. This trek south has seriously been at a snail’s pace, with only about 65 miles covered in 10 hours, but walks such as this are priceless, and we’d gladly sacrifice a bit of sleep in order to visit these states of perfection.

On the beach at Port Orford, Oregon

With the sun moving lower and lower in the sky, we have precious little time left for our quest.

On the beach at Port Orford, Oregon

Looks like we are approaching some places where we might find some sea life exposed due to the low tide.

Caroline Wise on the beach at Port Orford, Oregon

We knew the tide was low, but not this low. I think this would be considered more of a negative tide. See Starfish for scale.

The seafloor at Port Orford, Oregon

The bed of the seafloor is exposed. While we are accustomed to seeing seaweed wash ashore, it’s not often we see seagrass growing in the sand and outside its natural habitat.

Starfish at low tide in Port Orford, Oregon

I count almost a dozen anemones, some barnacles, and one big orange starfish, all looking like they are looking forward to the return of their habitat that has abandoned them in a strange environment where aliens have approached and are examining them. The anemone to the right of the lower right leg of the starfish got an anal exam from one of the aliens; you know, it wasn’t me that poked it, so that only leaves you know who.

The seafloor at Port Orford, Oregon

Beautiful little plants are seldom seen by us beachcombers, who are more accustomed to staring at people in bikinis and tight, form-fitting swim trunks that accentuate their buns.

On the beach at Port Orford, Oregon

And just around this time as the sun was about to dip out, so did Caroline’s phone. By the time we got to the car, it was dark out on the beach, and while we retraced a few of our steps, it was obvious our search for her lost phone was an act of futility. While this was as good a reason as any for Caroline to adopt a new phone, there was still some sadness that the images of tide pool creatures she’d been probing became lost research that would forever go unexamined.

Battery Point Lighthouse in Crescent City, California

It was 10:00 pm as we pulled into Crescent City, California, and not too late to snag a photo of the Battery Point Lighthouse and stars shimmering above it. A perfect day all-in-all.

Utah to Oregon Road Trip – Day 6

Yurt at Devils Lake State Park in Lincoln City, Oregon

The affinity Caroline and I have for these yurts cannot be understated. Although the price has nearly doubled over the time we’ve been staying in them, it is well worth every penny for their location, proximity to the beach, usually the quiet during this time of year, and the cozy factor. You could say it is our version of glamping.

Devils Lake State Park in Lincoln City, Oregon

Out of the yurt, it was a short walk to the still-steaming Devils Lake, which is the namesake of the state park we have been staying at. Our first night in a yurt was 12 years earlier at Harris State Beach near Brookings down the coast. We stayed in the Winchuck unit, and over the years, we’ve incorporated yurts into our travel plans on at least eight of our intervening trips up here. At times, we’ve opted for motels as when we fly into Portland it’s often easier to grab rooms than pull our bedding along with us, but we’d prefer if every trip would see us staying in an Oregon State Park.

Homes along the shore of Devils Lake in Lincoln City, Oregon

Living on the lake here is that beautiful.

Depoe Bay blow hole Oregon

We must be driving south today because this is the Depoe Bay blowhole in the town of Depoe Bay. The tide plays a large role in how explosive the ejection of water is going to be. Behind me is a spot when the tide is right, shoots water up about 70 feet, and will certainly get you wet on a hot summer day; not so great here on a cold fall day, though.

Caroline Wise walking down an Oregon beach

That’s Yaquina Head lighthouse out there, and so we must be fairly close to Newport, Oregon. Again, we are further south, and it was time to see if I had any notes regarding this Thanksgiving vacation; sure enough, I had a loose itinerary that showed a reservation for the William M. Tugman State Park down by Florence, Oregon. So now we know just how far we’ll be driving today; it will be about 108 miles or 172km for the rest of the universe. You can wager that with these skies, it will continue to be a spectacular day.

Wet sand on an Oregon beach

Sand that is wet or sand that is dry. Sand that is black or white as snow. Sand that is blowing or being dragged back to sea. Sand is a magnificently varying and shifting thing that requires as much observation as the waves, the clouds, the tide pools, and the shells. You never know what kind of patterns might greet you at a beach, so you should just plan to stop at them all as we try to do, even if it takes many years.

Along the Oregon Coast

We’ve heard that it never rains here, and it’s perpetually sunny and warm; in our dreams. Now, if this were further south near Santa Barbara, California, that statement might be mostly true. Today meets our dreams of relatively warm and certainly very sunny.

In the forest along the Oregon Coast

Blue-gray lichen sitting on a branch…I thought as I started writing this that I was going to be able to carry it forward with a limerick, but it’s late as I press into the midnight hour in an attempt to finish writing this entry. Maybe someone else will come along and offer up some witty continuation of my half-hearted attempt.

In the forest along the Oregon Coast

This is the main highway traveling south, but I could be looking north for all I know. No matter which way I look, it appears to be quiet without the crush of traffic one would expect down south on the California coast. For all these years, visiting mostly in November, Caroline and I have often felt that the coast was ours.

Oregon coast

Something (probably the waves) caught our eye (could have been the rocks), and so we pulled over (likely was the birds) and stopped a minute to have a look (you never know when you might see whales in the distance) and enjoy the sound of the ocean (oh yeah, the sound) and the little tide pools (well, we hope for tide pools because who doesn’t like seeing starfish) before getting back in the car to investigate what else is beckoning us from further south.

Hillside trail along the ocean in Oregon

Ah, it was this trail that drew our attention and made us stop. Just look at this trail, the green, the blue, browns, and a path that takes the visitor to a spot to gaze at things from a perspective not yet seen. Certainly worthy of our attention and awe.

Caroline Wise on the Oregon Coast

I know that this doesn’t look like a forest trail or an overlook from our previous stop; that’s because we moved on. As for what’s up the trail? That mystery is for you to solve should you be able to find it. As for what is in the picture? That’s my wife, Caroline, and that smile on her face is a legitimate bona fide smile that originates in her heart. I can affirm this fact with you because, after 26 years of exploring our world together, I can interpret those eyes better than anyone, including her. Those are the eyes of happiness (as worn by a nerd).

Mussels on the seashore in Oregon

The tide is going down as the day grows late, and sea life is thrust into the open where its watery environs have temporarily abandoned it. I have to satisfy myself with these mussels because down here we’ve never seen chitons or sea cucumbers on the Oregon coast. Now, if we were up on the Straits of Juan de Fuca in Washington, I’d put money on finding me a chiton or two.

Anemone on the Oregon coast

Tide pools rock. We never tire of seeing anemones, starfish, barnacles, sea snails, tiny crabs, and other tiny little seathings scurrying about. Too bad the tide has to return….then again.

Sunset on the Oregon Coast

We explored around those tide pools as long as we could, and then it was once again that time of day that suggested some dinner, and finishing the drive to our lodging was probably a good idea. I’m glad we did, too, because somewhere down the coast, this perfect spot to take a photo of the sunset presented itself as a kind of magic, making Caroline and I swoon in even deeper love as we bask in the incredulity that this should all be for us.

Umpqua Lighthouse near Florence, Oregon

There were no yurts left at the Umpqua State Park and Lighthouse when I made my reservations, but luckily, there was a free unit down the road a mile or two. A visit to this lighthouse feels as close to a Thanksgiving tradition as Caroline and I get. We don’t care about turkey, family get-togethers, or football. We’re most content out on the coast sipping coffee between walking and exploring the beaches up and down this amazing state of Oregon.