Memorial Day 2024

Caroline Wise in Duncan, Arizona

Talk about laziness, and you’ll see that some of my blog posts this year are a perfect reflection of that. Not that I’m lazy per se (though that is open for interpretation), but the fact that I am consolidating some of my posts, particularly visits out to Duncan, Arizona, could be perceived as me being a bit unmotivated in the writing department. The reason for this on my previous outings to Duncan was that my focus was not on traveling and photography but precisely on this act of writing. Our drive east for this year’s long Memorial Day weekend was to spend time not only with Caroline but also to capture something rare, time of doing close to nothing. That nothing included making a minimal effort in the photography department and subsequently in bringing this post together.

Duncan, Arizona

“Nothing”, though, is not in my DNA, and so something must be done.  When I started writing this post here on Sunday morning, I was apparently not doing “nothing”. Even this moment of jotting down thoughts followed a three-mile walk out along the Gila River and over some old, abandoned farmland in the floodplain.

Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

Back on Friday when we arrived, our hosts were nowhere to be found. They were in neighboring New Mexico visiting family, comfortable knowing that we are self-sufficient and would be fine by our lonesome in their place. In the garden at dusk, the enchantment of dozens of bats swooping in to nab insects was a welcome surprise with one approaching close enough for us to catch the sound of its vocalization as opposed to its ultrasonic echolocation that obviously wouldn’t be heard by human ears. On the other hand, later that evening our eyes were able to take in the dark sky, enjoying the stars that bats do not regard as the light is too faint to help guide their navigation. Mind you, I make no claim of being an expert on bats and am relying on Claude Opus and Mistral Large for my information, and please, do not conflate that my use of AI for research could imply that it helps with my writing; I take full credit for that.

Great Blue Heron in Duncan, Arizona

Saturday rolled around with a morning walk along the northeast side of the Gila River, where our interest was drawn in by the many songs heard from the birds that call the riparian area home. The first bird we spotted was one I’d seen on my previous visit and had no idea what it was, but Caroline has Cornell University’s app Merlin installed which allows her to easily identify birds. It was a vermillion flycatcher. High up in a tree, she saw a great blue heron, and when she pointed it out, I thought she was pointing to the nearby common black hawk in a neighboring tree before I, too, caught sight of the heron.

Turning on the audio capture part of the Merlin app, she showed me that we were listening to the calls of yellow warblers, Gila woodpeckers, northern cardinals, yellow-breasted chats, and the ever-present Gambel quails. By the next day, Sunday, I too now had Merlin installed, and on the southwest side of the Gila River, we added willow flycatchers, white-winged doves, song sparrows, and common yellowthroats to the list of birds heard but not always seen.

Methodist Church in Duncan, Arizona

After Saturday’s walk and following breakfast at the always adequate Ranch House Restaurant, while walking back to our artful lodgings at the Simpson Hotel, we met Minister Sherry Brady of the Duncan United Methodist Church who was holding a yard sale in front of the church she presides over. With a small congregation of about ten old souls, she’s optimistic that with some care, cleanup, and renovation work, she can grow the flock. We were invited into the old church, a simple and unadorned place of worship. From the yard sale, I picked up an old coffee cup with the nickname “Topper” on one side of the cup while on the other side, Floyd Johnson was penciled in before the cup was glazed.

On Sunday, I went back to the church before services got underway and was able to talk with parishioner Marilyn Thorne, who knew Floyd and was able to make out his indecipherable last name for me. Floyd worked at the Duncan High School as a janitor and occasional bus driver and had served the U.S. military in Korea. So, in honor of Memorial Day, though Floyd didn’t die there, and this should really be a Veterans Day gesture, I’m taking this moment to recognize this local resident of the area; he actually lived in the small community just east of Duncan called Franklin.

Caroline Wise at the Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

Back to the early-summer, lush gardens of the Simpson Hotel, Caroline fastened her backstrap loom to a rock wall in front of a bench where she sat for the next hours watching the trees sway in the heavy wind, which she thought were reminiscent of the trees in the Miyazaki animated film, My Neighbor Totoro and busied herself weaving and listening to the birds. From time to time, Iskander the tabby cat would come to visit Caroline for head rubs. Meanwhile, I took to working out some details regarding a cross-country road trip taking place in August and September while simultaneously trying to convince myself it was still part of my agenda of nothingness.

Blue death-feigning beetle in Duncan, Arizona

On Saturday, when mid-day arrived our hosts arrived too, not that this motivated us to shift our positions of slothfulness, we just continued on our trajectory of participation-inertia as we aimed to maintain nullity. Things stayed this way until the blood pooling in our rear ends began coagulating, a common measure old people use to judge the effectiveness of their laziness. This could only mean one of two things: head into the kitchen for some ice cream or go for a walk. Seeing how we were not at home, not that we have ice cream there either, we took a walk to the River’s Roadside Cafe and Bakery for coffee. I know, you likely thought I was going to say we went for ice cream, but we were already past that. We’d stopped in for a lunch of burritos earlier, and Caroline had dessert in the form of a scoop of triple chocolate and one of strawberry to help celebrate the Memorial Day Weekend, so who in their right mind would have even more ice cream just a few hours later?

Note: the photo above is of the blue death-feigning beetle, its taxonomic name is Asbolus verrucosus.

Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

Other mundane stuff happened along the way, though dinner with Deborah and Clayton that would never be considered mundane also happened and closed out the day. Then, here on Sunday morning the wake, walk, eat, write, eat routine got underway once more. This brings me to this point where I’m about to take a break from writing so we can mosey up the street to the Ranch House Restaurant for a mid-day meal unless, like yesterday, something from the River’s Roadside joint piques our interest. Come to think about it, they are closed.

Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

For the sense of time, it is the morning of Memorial Day Monday as I reopen what at the moment will have been a draft, though as you read this, it’s obviously a post of some sort. Last night was an evening out of the ordinary: while likely quite mundane to most people, I still feel compelled to share this, not necessarily with readers, but with future Caroline and John. We had dinner with Deborah and Clayton again, except this time we watched a movie. The movie was The Wonder Boys about a man lost in writing and indecisive, in part due to the need to pen something better than his first successful novel and in part due to his weed habit that’s made him compulsive and indulgent. While it was congruent with my effort to do nothing, watching a movie while eating and doing so to the very end of the film while out and away felt peculiar. I should add that this is not something we do at home, so it’s outside of all forms of my normal unless I refer back to my thirties, three decades ago.

Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

Before the evening’s festivities, there was the late afternoon garden indulgence that included a slow walk, a meander actually, that had me searching for details of things overlooked. It’s bound to happen when we move through an environment and are uncertain of the amount of time we can allocate to finding what is present, that we first see the big picture, and subsequently, should lingerability be available, we’ll look into the granularity of what was initially unseen. The surprise comes during follow-up visits when you are left wondering how you missed so much in the first and second encounters. Imagine my chagrin that on my umpteenth visit to the Simpson Hotel and Garden, I’m still finding new enchantments hidden among the many layers that exist here.

Train in Duncan, Arizona

This brings us back to Monday and this mid-morning session of capturing thoughts in the parlor as the aromas of breakfast waft through the hotel and I’m refueled as far as caffeine is concerned. At 6:00, we were out the front door for a three-mile walk that was well-timed with the passing of the twice-daily train that travels through Duncan on its way to and from the Morenci Copper Mine north of here. Up a nearby hill for a walk over town looking into the distance on a slightly chilly start to the day was a great reminder to appreciate these cooler moments that down in Phoenix are already over.

Caroline Wise at the Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

To close out this post/update: between these two visits to Duncan, I was working out some travel details regarding a late summer vacation that will take us to points in the Eastern United States and the Atlantic Provinces of Canada. Actually, not just some details but rather intricate plans that come with being able to invest nearly 60 hours investigating options that will guide our first-ever visits to Prince Edward Island, Newfoundland, Nova Scotia, and New Brunswick. For Caroline, the vacation will begin when she lands in Buffalo, New York, where I’ll pick her up with our car, and it will come to a close in Portland, Maine, from where she’ll be flying home. As for what our exact plan looks like between those dates and my road trip that bookends our time out that way, you’ll have to wait for the blog posts that will offer insights into our adventure. One thing I am willing to share: we’ll be paying homage to one of Caroline’s favorite foods with a stop at the Canadian Potato Museum in O’Leary, Prince Edward Island.

Incomprehensible Beauty

Devils River off Highway 163 in West Texas

Well before dawn, we left our motel and stopped at a gas station for a coffee, as that’s what there was for coffee in Ozona, Texas. This, though, was a fortuitous moment as we found a lucky penny we would come to be certain changed our day. The idea behind our early departure was to beat the horde we were sure would trek south into the Del Rio, Brackettville, and Uvalde areas. Well, here we are on our way south, and the horde has not materialized. Maybe the poor weather forecast kiboshed the plans of some of those 42 million people who were expected to venture out for this full eclipse that is the last one visible over the U.S. for the next 26 years.

Highway 163 in West Texas

A couple of hours later, we arrived at a coffee shop in Del Rio, Texas, less than five miles from Ciudad Acuña, Mexico, and about two hours from the start of the solar eclipse. We’ve driven 887 miles (1,427km) across the deserts of Arizona, New Mexico, and Texas to be here only to arrive under a seriously overcast sky with weather reports warning of severe storms in the area later today. Obviously, the sky in the photo here is not overcast, it was taken while still driving south to Del Rio.

With nothing else to do, we took up a perch at a table, with me busy playing the roles of both cantankerous Muppets Waldorf and Statler. Per my normal mode of operation, I’m grading my fellow human beings. Exactly how well they fit into that narrow definition regarding human characteristics is up for debate. First point of observation: the women here have not mastered the art of skin-tight booty shorts/leggings: you should either rock them commando-style or wear a thong because lechers such as myself do not want to see your panty lines digging deep into the girths you are shoving into your second skin. Next point, desert-sand-tan leather boots of one sort or other appear to be de rigueur for Texans unless you are a visitor from Florida, in which case you wear sandals. Californians appear to prefer running shoes.

There is certainly a nice diversity out here in West Texas and not a single person practicing their right to open-carry a weapon. Speaking of weapons, I’d briefly considered a side trip to Uvalde for some morbid tourism, but with nearly 900 miles ahead of us as soon as the totality passes, we’ll need to hit speeds approaching 150 miles per hour (240 km/h) if we are to make it back to Phoenix this evening before 9:00. Pardon me, not being in Germany, Google is estimating that we’ll need almost 14 hours to get home, leaving no time to take in a mass shooting site.

Caroline Wise and John Wise at Amistad Reservoir in Del Rio, Texas

Note the overcast sky behind us here at the Amistad National Recreation Area that was chosen as our viewing spot for the totality because it’s just a little west of Del Rio and significantly further west of Bracketville, our original destination. The weather forecast showed that there was going to be some breaking up of the storm clouds starting in the west, and as long we were still in the path of the totality, we figured it was better to be happy with a little more than two minutes of the full eclipse rather than risk seeing none of it. As for the selfie, I was supposed to share one of us during the eclipse, in the dark, but it turned out that having been rendered into blubbering crying babies by the sun in eclipse, or was it the shadow of the moon, that teary-eyed image I shot is not fit for posting here if I want to maintain my illusion of manhood.

Caroline Wise at Amistad Reservoir in Del Rio, Texas

How lucky was our misfortune of having our destination shift at the last minute? By coming to the Diablo East section of the Amistad Reservoir, the park service was on hand to inform the public and help them see the eclipse, but it was this special Eclipse Explorer Junior Ranger badge that made everything worth it. Even had we never seen the sun itself, just adding such a rare badge to the collection would have meant the world to Caroline.

Eclipse as seen from Del Rio, Texas

It was about 12:15, when we noticed the moon starting to creep over the sun for the first time. The clouds were streaming overhead, and while this might look bleak, the photos I took with my DSLR without any filtering were turning out better with some cloud cover than those with clearer skies. Because I left Arizona with the idea that taking photos of the eclipse was the thing I was least interested in, I had not brought my 70-200mm lens, ND filter, and tripod so I could better focus on the matter at hand rather than witnessing it through my camera.

Eclipse as seen from Del Rio, Texas

With more than an hour between the start of the eclipse and totality, I had plenty of time to get a shot here and there, many shots actually, though most have ended up in the digital dustbin of history, never to be seen again. By this time, the excitement from the adjoining parking area, where the majority of star chasers were positioned, was palpable, with cheers going up every few minutes as the moon crept closer to blotting out the light of the giant hot disk in the sky.

Eclipse as seen from Del Rio, Texas

Something unexpected happened on the way to falling under the full shadow of the moon, known as the totality; as the moon moved into position, the gravitational disturbance of some deep-seated primordial senses lingering in our bones punched the two of us, doubling us over in a stream of tears. Nothing bad, mind you; it wasn’t that we were seeing God and the second coming of his son ignoring our presence as if to notify us that we’d be dwelling in hell, nope, nothing like that. We were seriously overwhelmed by the incomprehensible beauty of watching the living prominence of the sun pulse and breathe in a manner never previously witnessed by either of us.

Eclipse as seen from Del Rio, Texas

Not having been prepared for the gargantuan emotional outpouring that seized us, all of a sudden, I was gripped by the wish to have the most exquisite record of this event so I might better reference the images and always remember where the universe took me today. As desperately as I desired a perfect artifact of this solar phenomenon, my senses never stopped telling me to focus on looking at the totality as I will likely never have the opportunity again to stare at the sun without filtered glasses and not damage my eyesight or go blind.

While staring at this incredible sight, one has to remember to also look around as it truly became dark all around us, so dark in fact that the lights of the parking lot had turned on. The orange glow on the horizon was also a sight to see, and while I tried taking photos of that beautiful view, the settings on my camera were set for taking pictures of the sun, and I couldn’t figure out how to change anything while enraptured in the state of weeping ecstasy I was gripped by. Take note, I wasn’t alone in this emotional outpouring; maybe we were even triggering each other to cry harder as we felt the others’ empathy and understanding of such a momentous event.

There were two moments of feeling that it couldn’t get any better: the first was at the beginning, when a seriously heavy amount of clouds moved in to block all sight of the eclipse and we thought we’d seen all of the totality we’d be afforded. Satisfied, we started looking around again at the general area until a roar went up from the large group that drew our attention back to the sun. The impenetrable cloud cover must have exploded because the sky was as clear as anyone could have dreamed of, we saw stars in the distance in the middle of the day.

Eclipse as seen from Del Rio, Texas

The next moment of ultimate wow was the fabled diamond ring which I only barely captured here with my phone. This image does zero justice to what was seen with the naked eye. At this point, there was a kind of threat of madness that should we stare any longer into the absolutely ecstatic image of what was playing out in the sky, we’d simply have to dissolve from the intensity of it all. To say we were shaken would be an understatement. Never before in all of our travels, both geographically and psychedelically influenced, have either of us been taken to such an emotionally giddy place of euphoria. A week later, while writing these words, I can still feel the sting of my eyes as I recollect the fervor of sensations coursing through my heart and mind, struggling to make sense of such a rarity of experience.

Looking north from Interstate 10 east of El Paso, Texas

For 3 minutes and 28 seconds, Caroline and I were lost under the eclipse, hardly able to think, reduced to nothing but feeling. We left the area about 10 minutes after the totality with tears still threatening to spill from eyes full of the immensity of that incomprehensible beauty, and for the next 45 minutes driving up the road, the knot in our throat remained ever-present. In hindsight, it could have only worked out this fortunately because of that lucky penny found at the start of our day. As for the rest of the day, nothing else mattered.

Chamula in the Desert

Caroline Wise wearing wool pullover from Chamula, Mexico in Phoenix, Arizona

For the astute reader, looking closely at the photos I’ve posted so far this year, you might have noticed the poor quality of many of them; my apologies. Sometimes, I must take photos with my phone, and no, it is not a 2006 Potato Model. For the sake of preserving memories that remind us of our lives outside of routines, something must be posted on the blog. In my mind, it’s better than nothing, even if it does look like a potato capture.

By the way, the model in this shot is none other than Caroline Wise. She’s sporting a Balenciaga hand-embroidered faux-bear vest from the Chamula Collection. Perfect for winter wear on those sub-zero days in the desert. For the sake of transparency, the model wanted me to point out that she did not pay retail, which would have been the handsome price of $6400 in NYC, but instead snagged it at the Beverly Hills Goodwill on Rodeo Drive for the eye-meltingly low price of only $80.

Weaving a Transparency

Caroline Wise at Weaving a Transparency workshop in Mesa, Arizona

If it’s Sunday, this must be Mesa, Arizona. For three days now, Caroline and I have been in the distant lands of this Mormon outpost of the East Valley, where she’s attending a fiber arts workshop to learn the craft of weaving a transparency. If you are wondering how one weaves a transparency, you obviously are unfamiliar with the seminal work of Hans Christian Andersen and his epic tome titled The Emperor’s New Clothes. As for the driver, I mean me, each day I took up a perch in different coffee shops that were all new to me: Hava Java, Pair Cupworks, and the last place called Renegade, where I was trapped for a couple of hours on a temporary island due to a water main break. As for Caroline’s project, I can’t tell you about it because I can’t see it.

Two Birds

Caroline Wise and a bird in Arizona

Rarely a day passes where a bird doesn’t fly into Caroline’s orbit alighting up on head, shoulder, or hand if she extends it. From ungainly seagulls trying to balance on her oval skull to owls and hawks on her shoulders, to the finches, robins, hummingbirds, woodpeckers, grackles, and other small birds that look for one of her dainty fingers to land on for a break and what we assume to be a moment of communion.

I remember a day some 15 years ago as though it was yesterday, we were on the Oregon coast when a pelican approached opening its beak pouch to offer her a fish as though Caroline was its chick. Fortunately, she’s never been the curiosity of vultures, though we are both aware that the day will arrive when their species will feast upon her, since being a Zoroastrian Parsi, she’s made it clear she desires a sky burial.

Into The Shadows With 2023

At the Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

Now, here we are in the early sunrise of the final day of the year, perched in our respective comfy spots in a room about to turn 110 years old. Not the oldest place we’ve ever taken up, but a cozy location nonetheless. As for the other side of the windows, it’s a wintery freezing morning out there where the warming cup of coffee would quickly lose its potential, followed by turning cold, too.

At the Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

Before any thoughts of finding the bravery to venture beyond our lazy comfort arise, the clinking and clatter of kitchen sounds clue us in that to head out for a walk at this time would be nothing short of rude as the symphony from that side of the hotel could only signal one thing: we were soon to find ourselves feasting.

At the Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

Meanwhile, we, too, bask in the warm indoors to avoid the bitter cold that is ushering out the year that was. This guy is Crocket, the trust fund kitty I’ve mentioned before. Through the cosmetic surgery available in Photoshop, I tried cleaning up the worst of his lung condition, which is the reason why, in the early part of the day, he’s a snotty, mucusy mess of a cat. Yet aside from trying to bite me if I attempt to pet him, he seems nice enough.

At the Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

This is beyond eating. Eating is too vulgar a word: all who pull up to a table this day will eat. Instead, we dine on a feast of flavors and textures that conspire to punctuate the end of 2023 with a duel in which this final breakfast takes up a sword and, with a challenge, says en garde! to the 364 morning meals that came before it.

This wicked concoction from the genius imagination of the artist in front of the stove can be described as a perfect mystery demanding that we forge a way to decipher where our taste buds are traveling. Flavors arrive from numerous points on the globe, maybe Oaxaca, a little bit of Persia, and the American Southwest, while the other locations must remain offshore in the chef’s repertoire of tools and brushes he used to craft this canvas.

Mystery must remain a part of this extraordinary beginning of the day because revealing precisely what went into our breakfast might chase away some of the enchantment. With my own imagination swirling around just what was on this plate, what Chef Don Carlos brought to our senses, and how it will flavor the experience of this last day of the year, I am allowed to savor what has been presented as though I were gazing into a culinary diorama.

Entering New Mexico between Duncan, Arizona and Lordsburg, New Mexico

With the proverbial one thing leading to another combined with the knowledge of proximity due to this weekend’s destination, Caroline had already coordinated a meeting with a friend we’d not seen in more than ten years on Sunday, that’s today. The couple we are visiting are Sandy and Tom, who now live in Silver City, New Mexico, following an extended stay in Sharjah, United Arab Emirates, where Tom was teaching engineering. Well, here we are, crossing the desert into New Mexico for the 75-mile drive to our destination, thus violating what I wrote earlier about trying to accomplish nothing on a lazy close of the year.

As isolated as they could find, up in the hills and quite similar to where they used to live in Prescott, Arizona, we found Tom and Sandy awaiting our arrival. While Caroline and Sandy have kept in touch over the years, this was the first time they were seeing each other face-to-face in the intervening years. Over coffee and about three hours of the afternoon, we chatted and chatted before making a date to visit again on April 6th, when we’d be passing through the area again on our way to the total solar eclipse on April 8th. This time spent with old friends added a nice punctuation to the last day of the year.

Leaving Silver City, New Mexico

Leaving when we did offered us all the fireworks we’d need to usher in 2024 because the sunset delivered a performance that sang to our senses. As the sky brought a song, our dinner with Clayton and Deborah, owners of the Simpson Hotel, would be a symphony performed in the Philharmonic de Paris, only better.

Caroline Wise in New Mexico

Caroline and I have shared very few New Year’s celebrations with others and to be invited, unexpectedly, to the table of our hosts to note the arrival of the new year over a sumptuous meal and a bottle of sparkling Riesling wine from Wiesbaden, Germany, well, that surpassed everything we might have otherwise considered as a potential celebration of the change from one year to the next.

Dusk in Arizona and the end of the sunset

There are so many parts that lend themselves to what is experienced. It is not simply food or alcohol, not only the ambiance of this 110-year-old art hotel. Our remote location in a beautiful corner of the sparsely populated Southwest also factors in, but the real front of the orchestra is the chemistry between the quartet and a passion for the aesthetic found in the love of time and what these participants in life are able to bring to it.