Yampa – Day 4

Yampa River in Dinosaur National Monument, Utah

Well, this is an unmitigated disaster as it is now NINE years after this trip was taken that I’m sitting down to post something, anything, about the last two days of our rafting trip down the Yampa River through the Dinosaur National Monument that started in Colorado and is approaching the confluence of the Green and Yampa Rivers just ahead, still in Colorado. The giant rock face is part of Steamboat Rock. Back in 2018, I left a note on Days 2 and 3 that something went wrong in 2014 because after posting about Day 1 soon after our whitewater adventure, something interrupted my blogging, leaving a four-year gap between posting Day 1 and the next two days. The problem is, after pulling those two days out of the air with a promise that I was about also to include Days 4 and 5, I apparently fell off the raft and floated down the stream of oblivion until May 11, 2023. Now, I have a lot of nothing aside from these photos that documented the visuals of our journey; the details are long gone, and I curse myself for it.

Yampa River in Dinosaur National Monument, Utah

The fact of the matter is back in 2014; I had already embarked on another adventure that involved a deep dive into virtual reality. Things were likely moving fast around raising money, and I never had time to look back. Then, in 2018, I was gathering distance between that VR project and its failure when I turned to repair some long-neglected aspects of the blog, but before I could get very serious about things, Caroline and I were on our way to Europe for a few weeks. Obviously, I then faced the daunting task of blogging about our jaunt into Germany, France, Italy, Slovenia, Hungary, and Austria.

Look attentively at this photo, and you can see the line delineating the merger of two rivers with the muddy Yampa on the right and the relatively clear waters of the Green River on the left.

Caroline Wise on the Yampa River in Dinosaur National Monument, Utah

Well, here we are with shareable information, as what is known is that Caroline took out an inflatable little kayak-like boat called a Ducky. There’s no doubt I would have been terrified that she’d crash into some major whitewater and be eaten by the river; obviously, that never happened. With the Green River being dominant, the Yampa has reached its conclusion as a tributary and is now but a memory.

Yampa River in Dinosaur National Monument, Utah

These types of views will forever remain in the realm of nearly incomprehensible as to how the uplift, folding, and movement of our planet’s crust works over time. Intellectually, I have some minor understanding of this area of geology, but the fluid nature of rocks and their reorganization at the surface doesn’t mean it all makes perfect sense.

Yampa River in Dinosaur National Monument, Utah

Though I ponder the jagged, almost labyrinthian nature of these forms through a filter of uncertainty, I’m no less enchanted with them as I am with the ocean, the sky, or the forest.

Willie Mather on the Yampa River in Dinosaur National Monument, Utah

This is the Scotsman William “Willie” Mather, a friend of Frank and Sarge’s who’ll become a friend of Caroline and me too.

Yampa River in Dinosaur National Monument, Utah

There are 23 distinct exposed rock layers here in the Dinosaur National Monument, and I can’t easily identify even one of them; this is what happens when you tune out, don’t take notes, and then let eons pass before tending to excavate memories.

Hiking off the Yampa River in Dinosaur National Monument, Utah

We’ve left the river at Jones Hole Creek and are out for a hike. We also entered Utah just minutes before our arrival on this beautiful day.

Hiking off the Yampa River in Dinosaur National Monument, Utah

Our hike north along Jones Hole Creek will take us about 2 miles upstream.

Pictographs off the Yampa River in Dinosaur National Monument, Utah

According to one post about these pictographs along the creek, they are thought to be nearly 7,000 years old.

Pictographs off the Yampa River in Dinosaur National Monument, Utah

Information is thin regarding the area so take this with a grain of salt.

Caroline Wise on a trail off the Yampa River in Dinosaur National Monument, Utah

A little-known fact about Ely Falls is that if there are a number of people in your group, there is a spot above the falls where a bunch of you can lay in the water and block the flow until it starts to go over you, then, everyone leaps up simultaneously and a rush of water spills over the falls absolutely drenching the person leaning against the rocks. Due to a bum knee that was slowing me down the entire trip, we didn’t arrive in time to witness Willie losing his pants as the water rushed over him.

Hiking off the Yampa River in Dinosaur National Monument, Utah

And the hike back to the river.

Yampa River in Dinosaur National Monument, Utah

More river miles before pulling into camp for the night.

Caroline Wise on the Yampa River in Dinosaur National Monument, Utah

You may not have known this about Caroline, but she’s a Class-A tent-putter-upper.

Frank Kozyn on the Yampa River in Dinosaur National Monument, Utah

Along the way, we were talking with Frank, Sarge, Jill, and Willie about our trip down the Alsek in Alaska a couple of years before, and on this afternoon, after Frank and Sarge had taken the bait, Frank hurt his big toe proving to him and Sarge that they’d have to work on Sarge’s wife to let him chaperone his Marine buddy and after much consideration, we all felt that something like this was just the kind of convincing that would work on her. Five years later, for Sarge’s 70th birthday, that’s what we all did.

Boatman on the Yampa River in Dinosaur National Monument, Utah

The challenges (shenanigans) the guides come up with for entertainment are not always cultural, historical, or scientific, at times they are inexplicable. Interpret this fun game any way you desire.

Yampa – Day 2

Caroline Wise on the Yampa River

Finished yesterday with a “minor” mishap. As we went off to sleep, we found out that my CPAP battery had given up its charge. Inexplicably, it simply appeared to be dead, and after the initial panic that I would be without my CPAP for the length of the river trip, we had to accept our new situation and hoped it would not interfere too much with the quality of our trip down the river. So far, so good, and here we are, all bright smiles and ready for whatever comes next.

Rafting down the Yampa

For something to happen, we must go forward in search of just what that will be. For those of us who have never been here, this is pure exploration.

On the Yampa River

Deeper into the canyons, our boatmen row while we indulge in the luxury of taking time to see our surroundings.

Cliff side details on the Yampa River

Close-up detail of the cliff in front of us.

Cliff side details on the Yampa River

The canyons and the rocks they are made from vary from corner to corner, and it is often the contrast between the types and colors that demand the greatest scrutiny.

Rafting the Yampa River

Those dark gray clouds portend something ominous in the distance. While it’s too early for a serious monsoon, it’s never too early for a good rain shower. Good thing that just a couple of hundred feet down the river can change your entire perspective; maybe blue skies are still going to arrive?

Kayaker on the Yampa River

We take an early camp so we can go on a hike; this is the view from where we are spending the night.

Plant life along the Yampa River

With our tents set up, Caroline and I wander around to investigate the area. The first plant to catch my attention was this juniper tree.

Plant life along the Yampa River

Sometimes, the beautiful depth of field and particular lighting are enough for me to post a photo to add visual memories to our journeys.

Plant life along the Yampa River

I could be mistaken, but I think this is a variety of sagebrush.

Trail for our hike along the Yampa River

As remote as this place feels and in spite of the fact that you can only get here by the river, there’s enough foot traffic to keep the trails clear and well-defined.

Plant life along the Yampa River

Just like I can never post enough photos of rivers, oceans, cliffs, animals, clouds, and Caroline, I can’t post enough of the plant life we find, either.

Panorama near our camp on the Yampa River

The sky grew dramatic and maybe even a little bit threatening.

Plying the Yampa River

It is warming the cockles to see a dory with its iconic form plying the waters in front of our camp.

On the Yampa River in Dinosaur National Monument in Colorado

Note: you can’t imagine my shock when here in the last 48 hours of 2023, methodically working through these blog posts and scanning for grammar inconsistencies and omissions, I discovered this, and the next two images had no text. There really is nothing to add as in the intervening years, we’ve not found any lost journals that could lend details to these days on the Yampa. 

On the Yampa River in Dinosaur National Monument in Colorado

Not the loveliest of weather for a hike.

On the Yampa River in Dinosaur National Monument in Colorado

Good thing there are lovely flowers along the trail; they’ll certainly appreciate whatever rain they can capture.

Caroline Wise on the Yampa River in Dinosaur National Monument in Colorado

Despite the looming clouds, our group decided to hike up to Wagon Wheel Point, which promised dramatic views over the Yampa. John decided to sit this one out because of his recently injured knee. Led by most of the guides, we hiked up the Bull Canyon Trail, which is relatively short but quite steep (about 500ft elevation gain in a bit over 1 mile). Once we had reached the canyon rim, we walked a bit further on what looked like an unpaved road to reach the overlook at Wagon Wheel Point. It was very humid but never actually rained, although there was lightning and thunder. Needless to say, we didn’t linger and turned around soon.

Plying the Yampa River

And then their travel companions brought up the rear as they went by effortlessly on the way to their camp.

NOTE: It’s now four years after we took this trip when I’m posting details for days 2, 3, 4, and 5. The brain is foggy, and while the pictures lend something back about the days, I’m left to a pure interpretation of them for the story. Caroline will have made a once-over on my writing by the time you are reading this and will have hopefully added some of her recollections, too. (May 9, 2018)

Yampa – Day 1

Caroline Wise and John Wise at the put-in for the Yampa river

Here we are, set to go out on our third river trip, this time on the Yampa and Green Rivers. Yet again, we’ll be traveling with our favorite boatman, Bruce Keller, as well as river friends Steve “Sarge” Alt and “First Light” Frank Kozyn. We first met all three on our Colorado River adventure in 2010, and Bruce has since then also been our guide on the Alsek in Alaska. Our put-in today is at Deerlodge Park in Colorado on the eastern edge of Dinosaur National Monument. Unlike our previous multi-week trips, this “little” sojourn will only be five days long. At Deerlodge Park, we pack up our dry bags, find a personal flotation device that appeals to us, go through a safety talk, and before we know it, it’s time to get to the business at hand.

On the Yampa river in Dinosaur National Monument Colorado

The brochure promised us plenty of sunshine, flush toilets, and feather beds. So far, our guides have certainly delivered on the first promise; we could not have wished for better weather. Back at the put-in, the terrain was relatively flat and for a moment did not portend that within an hour we’d be entering canyons, but here they are, and with their arrival, a rush of intrigue comes with this change in landscape.

On the Yampa river in Dinosaur National Monument Colorado

The passage narrows, and it starts to feel as if civilization moves further away from us. While not as expansive as the Alsek and not as deep and broad as the Grand Canyon, the intimacy of the Yampa here in Dinosaur National Monument is already allowing me to feel like this place is of a size that I can take in and almost comprehend.

On the Yampa river in Dinosaur National Monument Colorado

With the water getting a little choppier, the sense of being somewhere wild grows within. The adventure of the trip starts to take hold.

On the Yampa river in Dinosaur National Monument Colorado

Geological details surround us. This is about the time I started to dream of a trip without a schedule where we could pull up to the cliffside and examine the sandstone, look for fossils, or just hang out and bask in the location we are so lucky to be experiencing.

On the Yampa river in Dinosaur National Monument Colorado

It’s just past midday, and we’ll pull into our first camp early to give us plenty of time to set up our tents, build out the kitchen, do some exploring, or just chill out and enjoy the moment.

Lichen in Dinosaur National Monument Colorado

Our tent is up in minutes, and soon, we are out examining what’s to be found in our new neighborhood. Turns out there’s this gang of lichen hanging out, and while it looks soft and fluffy, looks can be deceiving. We also found a good amount of cacti giving us the stink eye, but no dinosaurs yet…..hmmm, I wonder if any of the other guests could be considered one?

Steve Alt (Sarge) and Frank Kozyn (First Light Frank) washing dishes off the Yampa river in Dinosaur National Monument Colorado

That’s Sarge on the left and First Light Frank on the right; they are the official dishwashers on this trip down the Yampa. I just dare you to try to come between these two former Marines and their dishes. They even travel with their own gloves.

On the Yampa river in Dinosaur National Monument Colorado

With the rafts tucked away for the night and our bellies full, the only thing left to do was sit around a fire and talk. Like all first days out on a river, this one came with most everyone cutting out early and catching up on the sleep they’d been deprived of over the previous couple of travel days as we converged on Vernal, Utah, where the trip first organized before heading to our put-in this morning. It’s great to be out here on a river again, wondering what big adventure awaits us around the next corner.

Going Boating

Caroline Wise in Page, Arizona

Last night, we drove up to Page, Arizona, on Lake Powell to position ourselves for the long drive to Vernal, Utah. Without distractions, the road is nearly 500 miles long and will require about 8 hours to cover. We don’t want to be late, as being well-rested tonight and able to rise early tomorrow is imperative. The boat Caroline is standing in front of is John Wesley Powell’s famous boat, “Emma Dean’, not the real one, but a recreation built by the Disney Company for a movie they made about Powell’s trek down the Colorado. A part of his journey was on the Green River, the same river that we’ll be joining during our big adventure that starts tomorrow.

John Wise with Maisy the Donkey in Glendale, Utah

We may not see Maisy the Donkey often here in Glendale, Utah, but we’d swear that she remembers us as every time we stop, she brays and comes right over for a snuggle.

Caroline Wise with Maisy the Donkey in Glendale, Utah

Maisy was just a youngster when we met; she’s a seriously affectionate donkey.

Somewhere in Utah

Not a great photo, I’ll grant but we rarely see Golden Eagles. My apologies for the dearth of images that accompany this 500-mile day, but my attention was elsewhere, as in getting my nerve together for the five days of whitewater rafting that awaits us.

Death Valley with Jutta

Death Valley National Park in California

We are in Death Valley National Park on the last day of the year. With Jutta having been here a couple of other times, we decided to take her into a corner she hadn’t visited yet, nor had we.

Death Valley National Park in California

To get to our surprise location, we had to head to the west side of the park and find the Emigrant Canyon Road turnoff.

Death Valley National Park in California

Our route took us right into the snowline on this beautiful blue sky day.

Jutta Engelhardt and Caroline Wise in Death Valley National Park in California

We are at the Wildrose Charcoal Kilns that are now long out of use, but back in the late 1800s they were busy at work making charcoal for the miners in the area.

Death Valley National Park in California

Our views were spectacular up here, affording Jutta sights of Death Valley that few take the time to see. From way up here, we needed to way back down there as Caroline needed to get to the visitors center before they closed so she could be sworn in for her newest Junior Ranger badge.

Jutta Engelhardt and Caroline Wise in Death Valley National Park in California

With a stroll down a boardwalk in Death Valley, we closed out 2013.