Trail and Fog in Oregon

Millport Slough in Lincoln City, Oregon

Some days ago, I mentioned passing the glassy reflective waters of the Siletz River flowing into the Millport Slough and how, an hour or two later, that pristine mirror was gone due to the lightest of winds. Well, this is the view I was talking about.

Otis Cafe in Lincoln City, Oregon

We got out early this morning for breakfast at the Otis Cafe before the crowd descended on the place, and, maybe more importantly, our upcoming hike this morning requires us to arrive at the trailhead early because the parking lot fills up quickly with its own crowd. I should point out regarding the Otis Cafe: there is no confusion about indulgence and healthy here; it is certainly the former, while the latter has never been served on these tables. It’s all good home cooking, meaning it’s slathered with everything artery-clogging, but if you can afford the pounds and enjoy your fats and sugars in large amounts, Otis has what you need.

Foxglove off Highway 101 in Otis, Oregon

We’ve just passed over the bridge that crosses the Salmon River, which we’ll be seeing again in a couple of hours, but first, more foxglove.

Lower Cascade Head Trail in Otis, Oregon

We’ve arrived at the Lower Cascade Head Trail with only about four other cars in the large lot. By the end of this hike, we’d return to more than 40 vehicles, five of which were driving in circles, looking for someone else to finish their hike on this popular trail.

Lower Cascade Head Trail in Otis, Oregon

There was some hemming and hawing on my part prior to driving out to Knight Park, where this trail begins, because while I’d read great reviews of the Cascade Head hike, there also were those reviews that spoke to my anxiety about rude and loud people on the path. Getting out here before 9:00 worked out perfectly, letting me relax with the fact we were skipping the Cascade Head Rainforest Trailhead back at the intersection of Three Rocks Road and Highway 101 with room for possibly three cars, though we’ve never seen anyone parked there in all the years we’ve driven by.

Lower Cascade Head Trail in Otis, Oregon

Part of my kvetching about the trail was because I wanted more rainforest and knew this one reached grassland nearer to the overlook, but I wasn’t sure about the trail before reaching that area. From these images, I hope you can glean how happy I was to be immersed in such luscious shades of green.

Lower Cascade Head Trail in Otis, Oregon

Trees with beards might be the epitome of the Oregon hipster vibe.

Deer on the Lower Cascade Head Trail in Otis, Oregon

This is why Caroline and I walk quietly through the forest: these chance encounters with wildlife that wasn’t frightened away long before our arrival. Instead, like the proverbial deer in the headlights, this black-tailed deer was surprised that we’d snuck up on it, and with a mouthful of yummies, it looked up and froze as though now that it saw us, maybe we’d not be able to see her standing still. I thought I saw a fawn moving on my left, so I turned to look at it, which was the cue for Mom to begin her silent slither out of the area.

Lower Cascade Head Trail in Otis, Oregon

So far, others who passed us have been incredibly polite and seriously quiet, too. Plenty of hikers passed us before we ever reached the lower overlook, as we aimed to be the slowest people on the trail today.

Salmonberries on the Lower Cascade Head Trail in Otis, Oregon

While others race by, we are tasting every salmonberry, looking for other things to nibble, and inspecting and grading the quality of the plants we walk by while listening to the songs of the Swainson’s thrushes, Wilson’s warblers, Pacific wrens, Stellar’s jays, and the squirrels with their pew-pew sound of laser weapons.

Turkey Tail Fungus on the Lower Cascade Head Trail in Otis, Oregon

There’s a serious dearth of mushrooms on this trail, which likely has something to do with the dryness of the climate at this time of year. These turkey tails were the only fungi we saw out here, though I’m thinking there might have been one toppled specimen from the Amanita family.

Lower Cascade Head Trail in Otis, Oregon

We’ve reached the lower Cascade Head overlook. On your left is the Salmon River, running into the Pacific on your right.

Lower Cascade Head Trail in Otis, Oregon

Some other hikers told us of some elk on that outcropping. We searched as hard as we could with the binoculars but couldn’t find them.

Lower Cascade Head Trail in Otis, Oregon

We continued a little higher but agreed that we needn’t hike to the upper overlook. God’s Thumb is the thumbs-up-like rock on the adjacent outcropping, and below it, where the ocean and the jutting rocks from the sea are, was where we were tide pooling last Saturday when Caroline had her octopus encounter.

Caroline Wise and John Wise on the Lower Cascade Head Trail in Otis, Oregon

I could easily argue that there are not enough selfies of the two of us being posted here, and maybe that would be true, but one here and there suffices as the cameraman doesn’t like losing precious time to include himself. Is my forehead growing? Do I need to start using a combover?

Prairie Mallow on the Lower Cascade Head Trail in Otis, Oregon

As you can see from behind us, there are a lot of wildflowers out on this mountainside. These are prairie mallows.

Ribwort Plantain on the Lower Cascade Head Trail in Otis, Oregon

This intriguing example of plant life among the various grasses is called ribwort plantain.

Milk Thistle on the Lower Cascade Head Trail in Otis, Oregon

I think everyone already knows the famous prickly milk thistle.

Ladybug on the Lower Cascade Head Trail in Otis, Oregon

Who doesn’t smile when they look upon a ladybug?

Lower Cascade Head Trail in Otis, Oregon

Having returned to the woods can only mean that we are on our way back to the beginning of the trail because this is an out-and-back hike.

Salmonberries on the Lower Cascade Head Trail in Otis, Oregon

We’ve been eating a lot of berries, including some dark red ones, which might be a variation of the salmonberry.

Lower Cascade Head Trail in Otis, Oregon

Once in the forest, there are nearly no expansive views, but at one of the bridges on the trail that crosses a deeper canyon, you can see the sky over the canopy.

Crane Fly on the Lower Cascade Head Trail in Otis, Oregon

Not as visually appealing as the cute ladybug, the crane fly appears like it could inflict some serious pain but it turns out to be completely harmless.

Foxglove on the Lower Cascade Head Trail in Otis, Oregon

What is not harmless is this foxglove, also known as Digitalis purpurea, which contains cardiac glycoside digitoxin. The operative word there that most people should understand is cardiac, meaning of the heart; while foxglove is beautiful, it can have dire effects should it be eaten, such as death. [Digitalis is also a powerful ingredient in heart medications, so it’s not all doom and gloom – Caroline]

Lower Cascade Head Trail in Otis, Oregon

By this time, we’d had close to a dozen other groups pass us and were able to listen to more than half of the herd long before we saw them. There was so much loud chatter I was able to conduct a simple experiment whereby, counting one-second intervals after first hearing the piercing tone of an overly enthusiastic voice, I was able to calculate the decibel level by measuring the distance between the first screech and their crossing of our path. The loudest person was estimated to have a voice that projected 110 decibels of sound based on the 8-second interval I measured. By this time, the birds were gone, the laser weapons of the squirrels were put away, and there were no deer left, which also likely explains why we didn’t see the elk while we were at the overlook.

Handmade spoon from Oregon Driftware in Lincoln City, Oregon

After our hike, we celebrated with lunch back at the Otis Cafe to try their sandwiches, then visited the Lincoln City Farmers Market that takes place on Sundays until 3:00, during the summer anyway. It’s a rare day that something other than food catches my eye at a market, but the craftwork of Brooks McKee and his Oregon Driftware company, where he makes vases, boxes, bowls, and spoons from driftwood, did get my attention. I ended up leaving with this spoon, a small salt bowl, and the tiniest spoon I’ve ever held.

Lincoln City Cultural Center in Lincoln City, Oregon

The farmers market was being held next to the Lincoln City Cultural Center, which Caroline wanted to visit due to their fiber arts and weaving exhibition space. On the very left, you can see a small corner of a loom that’s not so interesting, especially compared to these giant jellyfish made by Rebecca Hooper, a.k.a. the Gypsea Weaver of recycled/retired fishing gear from the Oregon Coast.

Mural at the Lincoln City Cultural Center in Lincoln City, Oregon

There’s a lot to see at the Cultural Center, with private art spaces and rotating gallery exhibits that are part of the mix. [This Sunday was the last day of an annual artist studio event, “Art on the Edge” with a few artists exhibiting works at the center in addition to other studio and gallery spaces. – Caroline] As far as we know, this place is unique here along the shore. This mural is a good ten feet long.

Foggy afternoon on Nelscott Beach in Lincoln City, Oregon

While we were at the Cultural Center and farmers market, we were watching the fog roll in, but just how thick it was we didn’t fully appreciate until we took a walk down Nelscott Beach in Lincoln City.

Depoe Bay, Oregon

We were intrigued by how heavy the fog was, as we rarely, if ever, see afternoon fog rolling in during the fall and winter. This was right at Depoe Bay in front of the long wall where throngs of tourists line up to see the occasional whale surfacing.

Depoe Bay on a foggy, summer day in Oregon

We are about 350 feet (107 meters) from those traffic lights, that’s the extent of visibility when I took these photos.

Deer in Depoe Bay, Oregon

When we got back to the house, someone from Bass Pro Shops had delivered this perfect deer yard ornament. If only that were true, this guy would be going home with us. We’ll miss Elmer and his gal Francine when we go back to Arizona. [I thought it was Bambi and Faline… Caroline]

Cold, Fog, Rain, and Sun – Oregon Style

Boiler Bay in Depoe Bay, Oregon

It’s cold out this morning here at Government Point, though no colder than other days, but there’s a steady breeze and a mist that is ever present on this 100% humid morning. There are three boats offshore out whale watching, and they were successful. We know this because we, too, were watching whales spout. It’s 9:00, and as I write this, it’s 55 degrees (13 Celsius) and raining here in Depoe Bay, Oregon, while at home in Phoenix, it just hit 100 degrees (38 Celsius). Caroline has taken up her place out on the veranda where it’s 59 degrees (15 Celsius) wearing her fleece, my fleece, and for a while, was wrapped in a warm towel.

Foggy Highway 101 near Otter Rock, Oregon

As for me, I got in the car for a 40-minute drive south to Waldport. I was supposed to go last Thursday, but we’d been so immersed in exploring tide pools and collecting an abundance of photos that I knew I’d fall behind here on the blog if I didn’t get busy, which seemed more important than the tip we’d received about a local Waldport business. Back on that previous weekend, we’d stopped at the Tidewater Creations yarn store there in Waldport and were waxing on about our happiness at having visited Bread & Roses in Yachats when the owners told us that we should try nearby Pacific Sourdough Bakery, but we’d have to wait until the following Thursday as they are only open three days a week, Thursday, Friday, and Saturday and only from 10:00 to 3:00, and to arrive early because there’s always a line; always. We might have been incredulous, but their other tip, that JillyBeanz Ice Cream Shop sold an amazing tiramisu, turned out to be true, so we thought we should at least give this bakery a try. So, since today is Thursday and I’ve nothing better to do, here I am, heading down the foggy highway.

Pacific Sourdough in Waldport, Oregon

It was 10:03 when I turned the corner to this sight. I knew that this had to be the Pacific Sourdough Bakery. Being Oregon, the majority of people just stood there in the rain, though I’m surprised that no one was in shorts and t-shirts. I had to park down the street and put on my raincoat because, according to my wife, I’m made of sugar and would dissolve if I stood out there like the natives. Then I almost forgot my camera, so only a couple of steps from the car, I went back for it and hoofed back up the street, trying to get in line before the next half dozen joined the queue. There are 32 people there in line outside. Inside, there were somewhere between 10 and 15 others.

Pacific Sourdough in Waldport, Oregon

Almost 40 minutes later, it’s my turn in the bakery, and it’s a good thing there is a line inside, too, because there are so many choices for the first-time visitor. One needs a good 10 minutes to peruse the offerings before accepting the futility of the situation, which suggests it might be better just to order one of everything.

Pacific Sourdough in Waldport, Oregon

I took photos of the items with rhubarb in situ, knowing these would be the things that Caroline would likely cherish the most. In the world of baked goods, rye, whole wheat, sourdough, and rhubarb, in that order, are the things she likes most.

Pacific Sourdough in Waldport, Oregon

This French sourdough with wholewheat and rye was the first loaf we cut into. It’s unbelievable that a small town of just over 2,000 inhabitants should have a bakery that does better work than most all the bakeries in the greater metropolitan area of Phoenix, Arizona, with its over 4 million inhabitants; it is really a head-scratcher. Of the bakeries in Phoenix that are possibly comparable, their prices are twice what they are here, even though costs are similar regarding wages and facilities.

Depoe Bay, Oregon

I took a similar photo on our first day in Depoe Bay after we arrived on June 10th. Every day, we drive up [or down? Caroline] this road on our way somewhere else, and there’s an enchantment that arrives with this first glimpse of the ocean, almost a surprise that it is so near.

Boiler Bay in Depoe Bay, Oregon

Once again, we are walking the trail that traces along the coast between the coastal area in front of the harbor over to Boiler Bay. With almost two hours before the sun finally dips below the distant horizon, it will hang low and reflect brightly off the ocean, necessitating a hand to block the blinding column of light that makes whale watching difficult when they are close to that point in the ocean. The drama created by our star shimmering on the surface of the sea works to make the scene all the more alluring, as it demands our eyes to glance at its ferocity.

Boiler Bay in Depoe Bay, Oregon

What you really couldn’t see in the wide-angle shot above this one were the seagulls taking late-day baths in the shallow pool. More than their bathing, it was the ripples emanating from their dips and wiggles that especially drew our attention. Now, we can study these beautiful patterns forever.

Caroline Wise at Boiler Bay in Depoe Bay, Oregon

For the vast majority of the previous more than 30 years, every time one of us is looking at the Pacific Ocean, it is in the company of each other. There are moments that I’m not sure which I enjoy more, gazing out on its infinity or standing in awe of what is on the face of Caroline as she stares at the sea. Many women have the smile and intensity in their eyes when they are looking at a baby that I see from my wife as gazes intently upon any and all aspects of what the ocean is offering her. Under all circumstances, she’s obviously beguiled by the biggest to the tiniest of details. She loves the air, the clouds, the sounds of the surf and birds, inspecting the plants, turning over and collecting feathers, shells, rocks, and the abundance of trash that is scattered about. I sense that she feels some kind of kinship, a draw, a romantic notion that travels across time and the currents the ocean stirs.

Coastal manroot a.k.a. western wild cucumber in Depoe Bay, Oregon

The distance between summer and fall is a single transitional stage brought on by shortening days, but the visual delta between the two is a chasm where life seen between them couldn’t be more varied. We are seeing so much this June that we never see in November unless it’s the withering remains of plants and colors that are going to sleep for winter in order to come back strong the following spring. This here porcupine organic grenade is called a manroot, a.k.a. western wild cucumber, it is not edible and is wicked bitter, seriously not good eating.

Boiler Bay in Depoe Bay, Oregon

Also, seriously not good eating is the seagull. Its ugly diet of everything and anything it can stuff into its gullet and fierce scavenging and busy flying schedule means the meat is tough and unsavory. These birds are so ubiquitous I just had to investigate their palatability.

Whale spout at Boiler Bay in Depoe Bay, Oregon

Twenty years ago, Caroline bought a t-shirt from Sanctuary Whale Watching Cruises that says, “Whales are for Lookin’ Not for Cookin.’” We had the opportunity to try whale meat last year in Norway and ultimately decided against it.  Maybe we are being hypocrites by eating some animals while putting greater value on others, but that’s a prerogative and respect for these mammals that can hold their breath on average for 80 minutes, dive as deep as 9,816 feet (2,992 meters), and have hearts that can pump up to 58 gallons of blood per beat (219 liters) while slowing from 20-30 beats per minute at the surface to as slow as 4 to 8 beats per minute while diving. They seem so highly evolved in respects I don’t believe we fathom yet, and to be witness to others seeing them for the first time, even at a good distance while on shore, it seems like they inspire things in people that transcend all of their other concerns, even if only for a few minutes.

Boiler Bay in Depoe Bay, Oregon

This brings to an end our 17th day in Depoe Bay, Oregon, leaving a solid week before the road takes us south and we start our trek back to Arizona. Surprise, that Thursday (July 4th) and Friday, we’ll remain along the coasts of Oregon and California before cutting across California, avoiding Sacramento and Lake Tahoe on our way back into the desert of Nevada and skirting Las Vegas once more.

Quiet, Cloudy, Summer Day on the Coast

Wade Creek on Moolack Beach in Newport, Oregon

After getting caught up with blogging about Monday and Tuesday, combined with some light morning rain on another cold start to the day, it was easy to fall into the mode of “Not feeling it.” Cleaning and grocery shopping felt like better options, so, pictorially, this is the start of the day after work and dinner, on a late-day walk to collect at least a minimum of physical activity. On the cooking front, we’ve been to Newport Cafe a couple of times for breakfast, to Sticks around the corner here in Depoe Bay for their fried halibut and shrimp a few times, Ona in Yachats, Otis Cafe in Lincoln City, Blue Heron Cheese Company in Tillamook, and the Schooner Restaurant in Netarts. We’ve essentially stuck to eating at the house, a good majority of our meals anyway. Today, I made us a Yucatan-style refried black beans side to go with the chicken I roasted for Oaxacan Mole, and that left us with a lot of leftovers. With that stuff put away, we drove down to Wades Creek.

Caroline Wise flying her kite near Wade Creek on Moolack Beach in Newport, Oregon

This is what the weather looked like all day, except it’s not raining. It would occasionally drizzle on us with a fine mist but wasn’t such a damper that Caroline didn’t feel the need to pull out Happy McKiteface and push its limits like never before. Seen here, for the first time, is Caroline’s kite at the end of its string.

Fossils on Moolack Beach north of Wade Creek in Newport, Oregon

A good 15 feet above us are these jumbled seafloor shells that were swept up with a volcanic ash flow. I was aiming to get a better photo of the scallop shell at the bottom of the image, which is significantly larger than my hand. Nearby, there was a layer of soil that had tree limbs in it. My first inclination was that they were relics of a different age that had been caught up with a landslide or other volcanic activity, but then I noticed plastic things, like an old plastic cigarette box holder I used to see growing up, old styrofoam such as what was used for coffee cups decades ago, and random plastic pieces that had me realizing that the debris flow was actually what was bulldozed at some point when this road was being built or rebuilt.

Fossils on Moolack Beach north of Wade Creek in Newport, Oregon

Somebody out here knows more about rocks than we do. That is what I realized when I saw laid out on another rock these fragments. How obvious it was that the person cracked open one of the many round rocks found on the beach under the cliffs. Now, in addition to needing to bring the camera, kite, binoculars, sunblock, hats, and phones, we need to bring a geology hammer. My curiosity about such a tool brought me to Estwing and their E30SE Geology Hammer, with its 22-ounce head weight and genuine leather grip for only $58 at Amazon that pairs with the Estwing Rock Pick Sheath for only $18 more.

Mossy cliffside on Moolack Beach north of Wade Creek in Newport, Oregon

Sometimes, water spills over the cliff as runoff from places out of sight and far above; at others, water seeps out of cliff faces. In the case of this bed of mosses, various plants, and flowers, enough water remains evenly distributed to the degree that an entire carpet of life has taken hold on a steep cliff that transitions to a softer incline before the rock face is again too steep to support plants. I’m well aware that this is one of those photos where too much is going on and that the amount of details combined with low resolution creates a noisy image, but one I hope gives some idea of how lush this bed of greens looked to us.

Caroline Wise at the hot tub in Depoe Bay, Oregon

It was getting late, but we felt that if we didn’t take advantage of the hot tub as much as possible during our 24-day stay on the coast, we’d regret later that the opportunity was there, but we let things like being tired get in the way. Now, I can’t get the idea of a luxury rock hammer out of my itchy shopping finger that wants to press “Add to cart.”

Odds and Ends in Oregon

Irises at dawn in Depoe Bay, Oregon

For a change of pace in how I present the iris growing here at the house we are staying at, I give you sunrise irises. Due to a number of issues, one was staying up late last night, plus various distractions in the morning, we were getting a late start.

Small bedroom at house in Depoe Bay, Oregon

Something like a bed we are sleeping in might be mundane to the visitor of this blog, but for us, it is a reminder of a cozy little space in this tiny home where the bed takes up the entire space of the nook it’s been squeezed into.

Millport Slough in Lincoln City, Oregon

As I shared above, we had a late start, and by the time we were finally on the road, we opted to skip the walk and visit the Otis Cafe instead. This was the place we were supposed to check out on Saturday, but too many people out front waiting for a table was enough for us to postpone a visit to a weekday, and today seemed as good as any. The little red cafe is certainly worth the visit, but be forewarned, the portions are enormous. The photo is of the Millport Slough looking west, taken on our way back to the house, and it should have been the other direction, but on our way to Otis, I, in poor judgment, thought the absolutely still, reflective waters that were mirroring their surroundings would still be doing the same after breakfast. I was wrong.

Logging trail in Depoe Bay, Oregon

Having skipped our traditional morning walk, we decided to hike into the woods just east of us at lunchtime. Google Maps showed us a viable trail that would loop around to Highway 101, and then we’d walk along the street back to the house. At first, the logging road was well-maintained, and it was obvious where we were supposed to follow.

Logging trail in Depoe Bay, Oregon

I’d like to say that everything was good, but just a short way up the trail, there was no more forest obscuring the lack of trees that had been so classically clear-cut, our favorite method of blighting the land with a mark of hate.

Caroline Wise on a logging trail in Depoe Bay, Oregon

And then, our map had us veering off the gravel road. Seriously, this is where Google is directing us? Here, look, what do you think?

Logging trail in Depoe Bay, Oregon

While this isn’t a thicket, and maybe there’s evidence that this was once part of an old logging trail, too, it’s feeling a bit sketchy, albeit incredibly beautiful.

Logging trail in Depoe Bay, Oregon

While we ultimately got some serious active minutes, and I crossed the 10,000-step mark, we got to a point where we would have needed to bushwhack into the thicket. Mind you, according to GPS, we were very close to our neighborhood, and we could hear nearby sounds of kids laughing and were sure we’d ultimately reach them, but our better senses suggested that bushwhacking in an Oregon forest might lead us to be the subjects of one of those stories of people who went out for a hike and were never heard from again. So, we retraced our steps and were able to turn our brief 30-minute lunchtime walk into a full-blown 70-minute adventure that almost risked calamity. Good thing I’m so level-headed and didn’t panic.

Dining on the veranda in Depoe Bay, Oregon

Extending our memories of the mundane with the place on the veranda where we share meals. Over the last two weeks, the two feathers, a seal bone, the urchin test, a sand dollar, and the limpet shell sit at the end of the table while I sit on the left and Caroline on the right. While these things may seem insignificant to many when we do return to these experiences in the years to come, they all work to reinforce the sense that we’ve had more than our fair share of luxuries we were so fortunate to share. Tonight’s walk will be in the form of a drive.

Siletz Highway in Lincoln City, Oregon

Up the road in Kernville, which is right next to the Millport Slough on the Siletz River, you’ll find Oregon Route 229, also known as the Siletz Highway. The northern end of this loop road turns out to be a very narrow, twisting road with more than a few beautiful campgrounds, RV parks, and county parks with boat put-ins; I tend to also think it’s the fire escape route should the main road in and out of the town of Siletz and its adjacent Siletz Reservation be under threat. Our focus is likely too fixated on the coast, as this inland area is gorgeous.

Siletz Highway in Lincoln City, Oregon

Driving up the river, the speed limit on this road is 55 mph (almost 90km/h), and people mean to maintain at least that speed. On the other hand, I’m having trouble getting over 35 mph because everything is so distracting. Looking out the left side of the car at hillsides chock full of blossoming berry patches, we nearly missed this fallen tree that appeared artistically created as an oversized terrarium.

Ichwhit (Bear) Park on Siletz Highway in Lincoln City, Oregon

This is Ichwhit (Bear) Park, and by now, it is obviously apparent why the Siletz Crabbing & Kayak Rentals company is operating at the intersections of Highway 101 and 229.

Strome County Park in Siletz, Oregon

Here at Strome County Park, we met a couple enjoying some music and beers at the river’s edge who shared with us to be on the lookout for a herd of elk and some unique cows you don’t see every day.

Charolais Cow in Siletz, Oregon

A few miles down the road, we were passing the Charolais Ranch, home of Charolais cattle. This breed, while popular in France, is relatively unknown here in the States, where everyone focuses on Angus, Hereford, and, of course, the ubiquitous Holsteins for milk. We did see a small herd of maybe seven or eight elk in the distance, but they were a good ways away.

Bridge next to Ojalla Park in Siletz, Oregon

We are suckers for bridges, and there are two of these on the Siletz Highway; the first was here at Ojalla Park, just north of the town of Siletz. After passing through town, the road widened, and we picked up speed, trying to get back to the house by 8:30. Caroline wanted to finish editing Saturday’s post, and I was still trying to catch up with writing. Then there was her knitting and me needing to process these photos from the end of the day, all of this before we jumped into the hot tub prior to going to bed in the cozy corner.

Remain in Motion – Oregon Coast Style

Roads End Beach at low tide in Lincoln City, Oregon

I start to see the risk of becoming a hermit here on the coast in the Pacific Northwest. Here we are on Saturday, and I was a bit grumpy getting out as I knew we’d be experiencing the weekend crowd. Already earlier in the week, we had some morning rain that created a bit of reluctance for a beach walk that would require a rain jacket and leaving the camera somewhere dry. Then there’s the traffic. During the week, it’s the guys in pickup trucks needing to haul ass to a job site. It is funny that law enforcement never seems to have one of them pulled over for speeding. While I’m at it bashing the local police and sheriff, they seem eager to catch speeders in personal non-commercial vehicles and absolutely reluctant to do much, if anything, about all the people illegally camping at waysides or on beaches. I can only assume that’s because they know that working people on vacation or a weekend getaway have the money to care for fines as opposed to those sleeping wherever they can find a place. Anyway, back to the subject, getting to the places you might want to visit during the day, such as your shopping, requires a load of driving up and down the coast, or you can drive 50 miles inland to visit Costco. Interestingly, there are no Sam’s Clubs in Oregon, but there is an IKEA in Portland.

Then there are the weekends. Add a kite, corgi, or classic car festival to the mix, overflowing trailhead parking areas, and long lines at particular coffee drive-throughs along with our inclination to focus on what’s bad out there, be it traffic, temporary visitors, long waits at restaurants, etc., and we can easily begin convincing ourselves that the great outdoors are not as great as they once were, so let’s stay in our nest and feed a desire for isolation. We’ve only been here a couple of weeks, and I’ve already seen hints of this behavior in me. Maybe this helps me better understand why we meet people all the time who don’t know the places only 20 miles north or south of where they live.

Anemone at Roads End Beach during low tide in Lincoln City, Oregon

Our destination for tide pooling this morning was up north of Road’s End State Recreation Site, starting at the Logan Road Wayside. Initially, I could only wonder why Caroline directed us to this beach, seemingly nothing but a wide, flat expanse loaded with a zombie horde wandering aimlessly north as though they were searching for brains. The lack of visibility worked in our favor as the crowd quickly disappeared into the fog, and after about 15 minutes of walking, I was still wondering out loud, in the gratingly annoying voice whining husbands are great at affecting, “Whhhhy are weeee heeere?” Finally, the rocks and tide pools came into view.

Roads End Beach at low tide in Lincoln City, Oregon

Days of visiting tide pools following however many previous years we ventured onto the coast during low tide, and still, we are surprised by what we find. I suppose there’s a kind of tragedy that as we gaze out upon the sea, we cannot see for ourselves how the habitats right before us are likely as vastly different as the landscapes onshore and how they change as we move up and down the Pacific coast.

Roads End Beach at low tide in Lincoln City, Oregon

Road’s End Point and not God’s Thumb, as I thought when we were down here. Higher up and behind this shorter peak in the fog is the culmination of the Knoll Trail that terminates at an overlook of the beach.

Mollusk bed at Roads End Beach during low tide in Lincoln City, Oregon

It’s now the Monday after the weekend that saw us out there, and I’m way behind on this writing stuff because not a word was noted about the evenings/late afternoons once we returned to the house. While I feel/felt confident that of the more than 400 photos I shot on this day, these 33 were the absolute must-include images, it is now already 1:00 in the afternoon and finding my words struggling to escape my fingers when this pair of eyes signals my brain that a nap could be conducive to refreshing the creative mojo, I think I might be lying to myself and looking for an excuse not to finish this post. Then I take inventory and try looking into the hearts and souls of all these mussels and barnacles, and I listen to their collective voices asking, “If you won’t tell our story, who will?” So I persist, except I think I’ll move on to the sea star in the next image and circle back around to the mollusks later.

Sea star at Roads End Beach during low tide in Lincoln City, Oregon

Thanks for the distraction El Jefe the Sea Star. Hey, you’ve not everted your nasty stomach on a fellow sea star, have you?

Roads End Beach at low tide in Lincoln City, Oregon

Of the couple dozen people who were on the beach going north, I can only surmise that after a half-mile of walking, they realized that the commitment to explore this phenomenon was not worth the effort. Their loss is my gain as they are not milling around and trampling everything, so I have all the time in the world to capture the high-action energy of seaweed and mussels out of their natural habitat where they fall victim to my zippy camera.

Roads End Beach at low tide in Lincoln City, Oregon

For years, Caroline has recommended I collage three or four photos together so I can break out of this toil of writing for every photo, but like a barnacle on a mussel shell, I won’t budge from my silly idea, no matter how bored the reader is, or out of ideas I might be.

Roads End Beach at low tide in Lincoln City, Oregon

An alien landscape that’s easy to visit without a rocket ship, no mass shootings going on here, no dystopian robot driven by AI threats of creating anxiety for what lives in this ocean, and it’s free to come look, so where are the crowds we might see in Disneyland? Of course, they are not here because there is no phallic sex appeal of a dorky billionaire talking it up, there’s no sociopath ready to kill all the sea stars for fame, and artificial intelligence is only coming to steal your personal job, so take your Biden Bucks (the ones nobody has because of the horrible inflation, really, the worst inflation anyone has ever seen, yep, all thanks to Sleepy Joe), pack up your TikTok camera and visit somewhere that makes you look beautiful, an exotic getaway with millions of others, basking in the glow of, “I’m gonna be internet famous.”

Roads End Beach at low tide in Lincoln City, Oregon

Meanwhile, we cretins will trudge in the quicksand of the ocean floor, listening to the silent screams of 8 trillion mollusks begging for us to return their precious ocean, Little do they understand in those tiny mussel brains, we are not their God that took the ocean away, nature just does weird shit that impacts life on Earth, get over it. If you survive, the sea will return; now stop praying in your creepy mussel language.

Caroline Wise at Roads End Beach during low tide in Lincoln City, Oregon

Look what emerged from the sea vulva.

Gooseneck barnacles at Roads End Beach during low tide in Lincoln City, Oregon

Today, I learned about epibiosis, which is the relationship in which one organism (the epibiont) lives on the surface of another organism (the basibiont) without causing significant harm to the host. While I won’t go into all the details about how this benefits both parties, I just want to remind Caroline and others who might be judging us that I am not a sponge, which is a totally different phylum. I’m more like an arthropod while my wife is my mollusca-momma.

Gooseneck barnacle at Roads End Beach during low tide in Lincoln City, Oregon

Check out my peduncle; oh damn, is that a limpet making my peduncle look small?

Sea slater at Roads End Beach during low tide in Lincoln City, Oregon

If I stop and take inventory, considering that I’m not rich or famous, at least my last name is Wise, unlike Christian Slater, who shares a last name with the sea slater, a.k.a. the sea roach.

Fingered Limpets at Roads End Beach during low tide in Lincoln City, Oregon

I could go all innuendo here, too, but my wife’s been groaning about the other stuff, so I’ll just let you know that these are Fingered Limpets and leave it at that.

Roads End Beach at low tide in Lincoln City, Oregon

I don’t know how many spats you’ve seen in your days, but this is a mighty fine example if you ask me. More than likely, you’ll be asking, “What is a spat? Isn’t that like a lover’s quarrel?” A spat is where baby blue mussels fall as they leave their veliger state of floating around like plankton to begin their benthic existence (benthic, meaning living at the bottom of a body of water). Right about now, I see six mussel larvae in my mind’s eye. One is wearing a larval barnacle, another a limpet of the same minuscule size, the third has algae draped over it, the fourth maybe a grain of sand, but you get the idea. They are drifting, kind of dancing, in the current of the sea singing, “Macho Mussel.” Seriously, I think that has the potential for inclusion in a Disney film.

Caroline Wise with octopus at Roads End Beach in Lincoln City, Oregon

You are witnessing a first for Caroline: an encounter with an octopus. This curious mollusk, which shares some history with those mussels to the tune of nearly 500 million years ago, was crawling along on the sand and not looking all that good for having done so. A kid with a stick (I know that you are probably already shivering) was trying to help it back into the sea, but I think all he really would have accomplished was puncturing it. That’s when I politely asked him to step aside as my fearless wife would gladly and gently assist the creature back to its world. Caroline jumped right in, carefully scooped up the octopus, and carried it back to the water, unsure the weakened cephalopod was going to spring back into action. As she held on, rinsing it in water and trying to somehow nurse the octopus, it started latching onto her hands, reassuring Caroline that it was regaining its strength. Ready to set it free, she realized that it was now in control and waited for it to decide to disconnect, not that my wife cared one bit. While she understands full well that the following is a bit of magic thinking, she can’t help but consider that these incredible encounters are a kind of karmic payoff for all the trash she picks up along the seashore. This will forever be a high point in Caroline’s life because not everyone gets to encounter wild octopuses.

Dory Cove Restaurant in Lincoln City, Oregon

Because adventurers do not live on experiences alone, it is time for a late breakfast and some very needed diner coffee.

Highway 101 near Cascade Head in Otis, Oregon

After so many late fall visits to Oregon, the intense vibrance of the green is an elixir that has us verging on the ecstatic. In a random small pullout on Highway 101 for no other purpose than trying to capture a hint of a reminder, we found this…

Salmonberries found next to Highway 101 near Cascade Head in Otis, Oregon

…a stretch of ripe salmonberries. Having just finished breakfast 15 minutes earlier, we could only eat so many, plus we didn’t bring a container to carry them back to the house. Salmonberries are unlike blackberries or raspberries; they are almost an acquired taste, one gained quickly by the two of us.

Pacific Crest Wayside in Neskowin, Oregon

A few miles prior to reaching the Pacific Crest Wayside in Neskowin, we pulled over for a small farmers’ market in a shady field and didn’t leave empty-handed. As we did have a cold bag in our car, we bought a couple of packages of Stella Falls gouda, two bottles of Silas Riesling wine, and some local Nestucca Bay butter. Next stop, ice.

Nestucca River in Cloverdale, Oregon

The next stop was not ice; it was this view of a ton of foxglove, various hues of green, and the Nestucca River.

Chief Kiawanda Rock seen from across Nestucca Bay in Neskowin, Oregon

Nope, still not ice. Looking out over Nestucca Bay towards Pacific City is Chief Kiawanda Rock, partially and mysteriously obscured by the fog lingering over the shore.

Tierra Del Mar Beach in Cloverdale, Oregon

Reaching the beach in Tierra Del Mar, we had a whole bag of ice in the cold bag and hoped it wouldn’t melt too quickly and leak into the car. Not pictured is our stop at a gas station market in Pacific City where we picked up said ice and Caroline impulse bought a regret that she’s yet to try: Raindrops Gummy Sushi. I’d wager she’ll send them to someone in Germany so she doesn’t need to suffer the indignity of trying them herself. [Nope, I’ll try them myself, pinky promise! Caroline]

Near Cape Lookout in Cloverdale, Oregon

We’re still going north on a mission of the utmost importance for our impending road trip back to Arizona starting on July 4th. All will be revealed with the last photo of the day. It was at the Cape Lookout Trailhead when we pulled over for this shot up the road.

Andersons Viewpoint in Tillamook, Oregon

That long stretch of beach is on the Netarts Spit, which ends at the Netarts Bay Shellfish Preserve inlet just across from our next stop, assuming nothing else distracts us.

Netarts Bay in Tillamook, Oregon

Our first distraction here at Netarts Bay and, somehow, the last one before reaching the Schooner Restaurant in Netarts proper, where we took an outside table for the first time and ordered some of their incredible Oysters Rockoyaki. We only experienced this Oysters Rockefeller meets the Japanese-inspired Oysters Motoyaki about six years ago, but now, if time allows, we’d never forego another encounter.

Three Arch Rocks and Tunnel Beach in Oceanside, Oregon

Had we driven directly to our destination, we’d have been there in under an hour, whereas our method was able to extend that to six full hours. We skipped walking down on this stretch of coast at Three Arch Rocks and Tunnel Beach, knowing we’d walked it before, plus there was a beach coming up we’d never visited.

Short Beach Trailhead in Tillamook, Oregon

This is the Short Beach Trailhead, with a rather steep trail and stairs.

Short Beach in Tillamook, Oregon

This mostly rocky shoreline lives up to its name, which is about a quarter mile long and completely isolated: it is a short beach.

Pacific Ocean from Cape Meares Loop in Tillamook, Oregon

After ten years of being closed, the Cape Meares Loop Road is now open again. It’s not the same path we’ve driven and walked previously because that area is still an active landslide threat (which is what closed the road), but it is a detour with a fairly steep climb up and over a mountain connecting with the Bayocean Spit on Tillamook Bay. The new part of the loop opened in November of last year, and from how new everything still looks, it seems as though it’s not much in use yet.

Tillamook Bay in Tillamook, Oregon

Tillamook Bay and a big hint about our second destination of the day after the tide pools at Road’s End.

Blue Heron Cheese Factory in Tillamook, Oregon

We are NOT at the Tillamook Cheese Factory; we are somewhere much better, the Blue Heron French Cheese Company, also in Tillamook. While nothing has changed inside the store in the 20 years we’ve been visiting, there is now an outside area with picnic tables, a cheesy candy store that feels way off-brand, and a large, red metal barn that obscures what was once a beautiful view of the distant mountains. But we are not here for the aesthetics and the commercial accommodation of keeping families with children interested in stopping in; we are here for smoked brie. Arriving at 4:00 was almost a mistake. When I approached the deli counter, a person was just putting up the “Deli is Closed” sign. I quickly explained the error of turning our drive into an all-day affair, and she offered to go ahead and take our order for their grilled sandwich known as the Blue, including Blue Heron Smoked Brie, per our special request, along with turkey, cranberries, and cranberry sauce. With three wheels of the smoked brie put atop our ice for the drive back down the coast, the day was complete.

Really? More Tide Pools?

Low tide at Fogarty Creek Beach in Depoe Bay, Oregon

Fog in the atmosphere and fog in the brain. After 14 days of keeping up with my blog posts so I don’t fall behind and have a load of writing to do after we get home, today would be the day I’d be getting a late start on this self-imposed task. Not that this fact means a thing to the casual reader because Caroline is a day behind in editing, but as you can see from the number of photos, aside from the nine busy hours spent at the house on the edge of the forest, we are out here somewhere in the great outdoors. There are the chores that come with cooking and cleaning, but also with keeping our host’s home in the same condition we found it, and a lot of the first half of my day was spent doing some deeper cleaning to ensure that when our time runs out here on the coast, I’ll not be overwhelmed with putting it all back in order. Taking this break and calling it brain fog suits a certain inclination for drama because the simple truth is rather mundane.

Gumboot Chiton during Low tide at Fogarty Creek Beach in Depoe Bay, Oregon

Anyway, on with our day. During this low tide event that goes through Sunday, you’ll be seeing a lot of photos that might look similar to images I’ve already posted, but we can see the small distinctions of difference between them all, and that’s good enough for us. Yesterday, Caroline was holding a couple of gumboot chitons, and I shared some photos that included black Katy and lined chitons, but they are all very different in size. The big red thing in this photo is another gumboot chiton, and at the top of the image, you can see a black Katy chiton peeking out from underneath. Chitons do not eat other chitons; this is just where they had ended up when we spotted them. Now consider that the lined chiton is about ten times smaller than the black Katy.

Low tide at Fogarty Creek Beach in Depoe Bay, Oregon

In the first photo of this post, you can see the rocky area of Fogarty Beach we explored yesterday morning. The area shown in this photo was mostly underwater then and consequently not of much interest to us, though it was where we saw the urchin and the gumboots. This morning, about a dozen people were swarming over this area, and like idiots drawn to the herd, we followed them, figuring they knew something we didn’t. That was wrong.

Caroline Wise at Fogarty Creek Beach in Depoe Bay, Oregon

Our newest happy place: the big rocks just north of Fogarty Creek during low tide. Notice that it is still cold enough out here to warrant Caroline to be in sweat pants, a wool base layer top, a fleece, and her beanie, but her feet are in sandals so she can go where I can’t, and she doesn’t hesitate to stick her hands into the icy water if need be. I swear it takes close to an hour after we leave for warmth to return to her frozen mitts, and seeing how I deny her wish to warm them on my toasty torso, she truly suffers for her fun.

Fogarty Creek Beach in Depoe Bay, Oregon

Nope, nothing new under the sun here, just hundreds of anemones, a couple dozen sea stars, and some barnacles. Still, they are wonderful to look at when standing on the exposed, open-air floor of the ocean

Sea urchin during low tide at Fogarty Creek Beach in Depoe Bay, Oregon

You might want to think that this is the same urchin I photographed yesterday, except that one was by itself, and this one has a sea star moving in to feast on one of its favorite meals. It turns out sea stars target the urchins that are in poor health before they take out the specimens that are doing well. Maybe this proximity is just a health and wellness checkup?

Fogarty Creek Beach in Depoe Bay, Oregon

When you are a thousand miles from home, it is a dumb time to regret that you didn’t bring a piece of equipment that you could have used to great effect here, but that’s where my macro lens is. Who knew we’d see so much tiny life and that sea creatures favor spring and early summer mating, producing millions of offspring?

Lined chiton during low tide at Fogarty Creek Beach in Depoe Bay, Oregon

Seeing so many life forms when my focus is on but one of them, the lined chiton, misses the big picture of exactly what is here. I believe the purple slimy stuff on the top left quadrant is Coralline algae with a patch of inky black tar spot algae, while below it grows green algae. On the top right could be Turkish washcloth seaweed. Right next to the chiton, it looks like there are a few insect-like creatures, and to the right of them, a small sea star. Under the green algae at the bottom of the photo are two barnacles poking out, and below the chiton, what looks like polyp things that might be newborn something or others. Then there are the things that cannot be seen by our eyes, but it could be known if we hire and bring a marine biologist with us on these outings.

Fogarty Creek Beach in Depoe Bay, Oregon

Caroline is purple; I am orange.

Fogarty Creek Beach in Depoe Bay, Oregon

This blue mussel is playing host to a hundred or more tiny barnacles. Even after it dies, many of these others will go on living until circumstances are such that they, too, pass.

Lined chiton during low tide at Fogarty Creek Beach in Depoe Bay, Oregon

Caroline has a momentary obsession with the lined chitons; good thing their names are too long for our license plate. Otherwise, we might have to give up HAGFISH.

Fogarty Creek Beach in Depoe Bay, Oregon

She can have her mini love affair with them; after all, I seem to be having issues with these barnacles.

Chiton during Low tide at Fogarty Creek Beach in Depoe Bay, Oregon

There are 940 known species of chitons. I can’t tell you which this one is. As you look around the chiton, every little bump and grain attached to this vertical rock face is a living thing, other than the few rock surfaces peaking out from below. I can only wonder what they all are as when they mature, they’ll be hidden by the tide, and I’ll be 1,000 miles south in the desert.

Fogarty Creek Beach in Depoe Bay, Oregon

Once attached, forever together, like Caroline and I.

Low tide at Fogarty Creek Beach in Depoe Bay, Oregon

It’s a strange thought that as these creatures find their foothold to put down an anchor point they’ll call home, and then others, such as the sea stars that feed on the mollusks, arrive to roost and feast, shifting sands can bury them leaving no route of escape. If you stop and think about it, the sea is able to create such an overwhelming abundance, but our ravenous appetite and effective means to take everything allow us to bring species to the brink of extinction. How do we not see a flaw in this?

Fogarty Creek Beach in Depoe Bay, Oregon

In the end, none of our destruction matters except to us and our survival. The line from Jurassic Park, “Life will find a way,” is clear: all of these things that live on our planet have survived far longer than our species, and whatever we leave will become the inheritors of the earth.

My set up where I write and prep photos in Depoe Bay, Oregon

This is my daily setup in Depoe Bay. The room we sleep in is to the left; the kitchen is to the right. Out the back door on the right is the veranda where Caroline is working. The found things from the shore on the table to the right of my computer are the Scientist from Rainbow Friends, a Pirate Rubber Ducky, the shell of a chiton, a fossilized clam shell, a rock that looks like a bean, a rock that looks orange when it’s wet, a wisp of a polished shell fragment, and a translucent rock that probably was probably from a thick piece of glass at some point. Though I didn’t get an early start on this writing, it is 5:00 p.m. as I finish this paragraph and the beginning of the weekend. I’m fairly certain that we’ll be getting something to eat somewhere along the road, but which direction that will be is yet to be determined. If I were smart, I’d leave the camera at the house and not task myself with more writing today. A drive, a walk, dinner, and the hot tub, that sounds about perfect, if only I had the will to make exactly that happen.

I can’t believe it. I presented my plan to Caroline, and she thought it was a great idea. We even managed to skip using the car again as we walked to dinner at Sticks.