Heading Out – Day 1

San Carlos Apache Reservation in Arizona

With a good dose of apprehension manifesting as some low-level tension on the verge of aggression, we are nearly ready to go. It’s Saturday morning and instead of being ready beforehand like we typically are, today we had to tend to a lot of last-minute details prior to our departure. Consequently, we are getting out later than I might have otherwise desired, but at least we are forging ahead with our first nights away from home in over half a year. While sitting here at my desk a minute before heading to the car, there’s not a minor amount of ambivalence about going through with this. Pandemic conditioning has had its impact, but we can do this.

It takes about 45 minutes to get far enough away from home that I can start relaxing, which then allows Caroline to crack open Magic Mountain and get to reading me some Thomas Mann. We are down to the last 150 pages of this 720-page tome and hope to put a good dent in what remains while we are out on our little sojourn.

Passing through Miami yet again, it was time for lunch we pulled up to Guayo’s El Rey restaurant for a great carne asada that we shared at a nearby picnic table in the shade. You might remember that we came out this way on a day trip for my birthday, hoping to eat here but had to go to Guayo’s on the Trail down the road in Globe, except they weren’t serving carne asada then nor on my solo trip a month ago. Today, we hit pay dirt.

Smoke blankets the landscape as wildfires take their toll on the Southwest. The pallor of the sky, though, doesn’t dampen our enthusiasm to be out here now that we’re seriously underway. For a quick minute, we thought we might be stymied in our effort as an overhead sign warned us of a road closure outside Globe, which was our direction. Fortunately, it was the way north and not eastward, so we were good to go, as a detour in this area would have added 5 hours to our driving at a minimum.

The photo above was taken on the San Carlos Apache Reservation and, while a relatively non-descript image, it shows that every street into the reservation has a security person at a small shack ensuring that everyone who enters is a tribal member due to the worry of outsiders bringing COVID-19 into their lands.

Caroline Wise and John Wise roadside near Duncan, Arizona

Our plan of visiting Mt. Graham today had to be put on hold. The plan is instead to visit on Monday on our way home. For one, the smoke was pretty heavy, but more than that, we had told our hosts that we thought we’d arrive around 4:00, so it was apparent we’d have to give up on that visit.

After getting into Duncan right on time and being greeted by the inimitable Clayton of the Simpson Hotel and possibly the alter ego of one Don Carlos, we were quickly falling into the familiarity of being awed by this man’s wisdom and wit. Somewhere between referencing Oswald Spengler and Marcel Proust, he quite correctly repeated a quote from Heinrich Heine that reads:

Mine is a most peaceable disposition. My wishes are: a humble cottage with a thatched roof, but a good bed, good food, the freshest milk and butter, flowers before my window, and a few fine trees before my door; and if God wants to make my happiness complete, he will grant me the joy of seeing some six or seven of my enemies hanging from those trees. Before death I shall, moved in my heart, forgive them all the wrong they did me in the lifetime. One must, it is true, forgive one’s enemies–but not before they have been hanged.

With our hosts wishing us a good dinner, we were soon on our way out again, back the way we’d come, for a 38-mile drive to dinner in Solomon. We were heading to La Paloma restaurant for more Mexican food because the nostalgia of a great meal is a powerful draw to return. Along the way, we stopped to take the first selfie of ourselves since April 26th, when I posted a photo of us in our matching face masks that Caroline made us before the industry of artful masks exploded. Our dinner did not disappoint.

Mt. Graham in distance near Safford, Arizona

The serenity found in a place that is nowhere is unmatched when the forces of man-made chaos are kept at bay. The wind can blow, hail can fall, and lightning bolts from above can threaten one’s existence, but the machinations of nature often arrive with such astonishing beauty that, more often than not, we have to give the world around us a pass for its occasional tantrum that disrupts our well-being.

A cascade of delight is available out here for those who desire to see what is just before them, but first, we have to acquire a sense of what it is we need to feed our souls. For us today, it is the palette, the eyes, the memories, and a dry river bed with remembrances of sandhill cranes flying overhead this past January. I don’t mean to imply that the memories have to come from previous visits to the area but from the collective memory of a life lived in the search of the unseen and unknown. Until you see something a second, a third, or multiple times, how do you know you’ve really seen what you think you have?

Love is not found in singular glances, although it can first arise from a simple gaze upon just about anything, but we must look again and again, reach out and touch, smell, and bring into our sense of expanding emotional knowledge that inspires our love to conquer our reason, thus becoming a part of ourselves. Repetition of familiarity is key, but it can also be a curse should you come to believe that you now know this thing, person, condition, or possibility. Certain knowledge is a kind of death of potentiality, and it is the uncertainty of what one might find that brings us back to stare into the eyes of a loved one or into the sunset as we’ve never seen it before, though we may have already seen 10,000 sunsets before.

Skull and Loaves

Cat Skull found in Phoenix, Arizona

The whiskers and canines should be the giveaway that Caroline harvested this cat’s head from its rotting corpse that for the past six months has been baking next to the road where we walk every day. The first few days, we were certain the poor cat was going to be picked up by some sort of animal control service, but that never happened. A concerned citizen moved its body from near the street to the other side of the sidewalk and that’s where it stayed. For some weeks, the smell of dead kitty was a wretched one and the sight of the ants followed by maggots devouring it while leaving its fur intact was an interesting process. A month after it died the fur still looked like you could pet it and then it rained.

Matted and disintegrating it just laid around all day and night. Occasionally a dog or maybe some kids with a stick would disturb its resting place but for the most part, it just became more and more desiccated in the hot desert sun. Yesterday was different though as Caroline fell behind a second while I was ahead picking up trash with my bucket and grabber so I thought nothing of things until I turned around and saw her squatting over the open grave with her hand at ground level extracting the skull of the cat from the broken and twisted pelt with bones that had been a living creature half a year ago. No, I can’t believe it either that she just reached down and collected her cat skull trophy. That though is not the worst part. As I approached her with the obvious intent of taking a photo of her grave-robbing prowess, she fished out whatever it was that was still filling its eye socket so it would look more skull-like instead of rotting animal-like. She was about to de-beard it when I stopped her, saying the whiskers made it look more natural. She brought it home with plans to finish cleaning it and then I have no idea what she’ll do with it, maybe it’ll become a candle holder?

Caroline Wise and a braided loaf of bread in Phoenix, Arizona

This ginormous twisted braid of bread fresh out of the oven is a whole wheat egg loaf that almost resembles real challah except this one is industrial size. Next time she’ll halve the recipe. Well, that was my wife’s weekend, what did yours do?

A Yarn About Yarn

Caroline Wise and John Wise in Newport, Oregon

As this is a yarn about yarn, I need to begin this post with the two characters that are featured, Caroline and John Wise. The hats and scarves we wore in this photo up on the Oregon coast were made by Caroline. The beany she’s wearing has some indigo-based blue stripes. That yarn was dyed by her, while the rest of the colors were naturally dyed yarns from France. My beany is made of yarn gifted by Stephanie Engelhardt, my sister-in-law, and was handspun over there. My scarf was knitted from yarn we picked up from a shop in Luneburg, Germany; on a previous visit, Caroline sprang braided her scarf from yarn she won at a guild raffle here in Phoenix.

Driftwood Farms Yarn from Reedsport, Oregon

You see, when Caroline and I travel, we stop at yarn shops. We’ll go out of our way to visit these stores, such as this one that was temporarily set up at a Chowder Fest in Coos Bay, Oregon, by Driftwood Yarns and Candles, which normally finds its home a bit up the road in Reedsport, Oregon. As a matter of fact, that green and yellow skein has now been transformed into my newest pair of socks.

Monome Grid in Phoenix, Arizona

While I had just unboxed an instrument that was picked up on our way to coffee, you see in the background some yarn being transformed into socks. That yarn came from Newport, Oregon, but not from the same trip as the yarn above. This is an older photo, and while we visit many familiar yarn stores along that Pacific Northwest Coast, we try to get at least a skein or two for me so I get to wear souvenirs from our various journeys. While I rarely, if ever, remember where the yarn has come from, Caroline has a pretty impeccable memory for these details, often filling in information about what we were doing before and after our visit to a particular shop and maybe even a quirk or two from the owner or their shop pet.

My "Alsek" socks were just finished here at Alsek Lake by Caroline Wise while in Alaska

These became my favorite pair, although all of them are mostly my favorites. What made these (which happen to feature yarn from Portland, Oregon) special was that they were knitted while we were whitewater rafting the Alsek River from the Yukon west to Alaska. They were finished on the second to last day of a two-week adventure as we were camping at Alsek Lake. I took this photo from our campsite looking out towards the Alsek Glacier.

Yarn from WollLust in Berlin, Germany

Last year, I was in Berlin for a music conference a couple of weeks before Caroline and I met up again in Frankfurt; she asked that I visit Woll-Lust for her. She’d eyed some yarns she fell in love with, so I simply had to go. The funny thing is that the majority of the yarn in this photo were things I chose as impulse buys for socks I’d like to see Caroline make for me in the future. None of them are socks yet, but that’s okay as it takes her 40 hours to knit me a hand-fitter pair; I can be patient. On the other hand, two skeins, one variegated with orange and one of the very orange skeins, are currently being knitted up.

Yarn from 1001Fonal in Budapest, Hungary

While in Budapest back in 2018, we stopped at 1001 Fonal, which translates to 1001 Yarns. There is a bummer about picking up so much yarn when we are traveling, especially when it involves flying, as it all has to fit in our baggage to get it home. However, when I was in Berlin, I requested to have it shipped to America and not to send it until a few days before we left Europe. We’ve had the same problem when visiting bookstores such as Powells in Portland, Oregon, and wanting to leave with 25 pounds of new reading material. The burden of nerds.

Caroline Wise knitting socks at Insomnia Coffee in Cannon Beach, Oregon

Here we are on a rainy day on the coast with Caroline wearing another handmade beany. This one is yet again made with yarn collected on the Oregon coast. We have a soft spot for Oregon, and the more memories we can carry around with us, the better. The yarn that is on the five needles required to make a pair of socks is from Wollmeile in Vienna, Austria. Do I need to tell you that they are one of my favorite pairs?

John Wise wearing handmade socks in Phoenix, Arizona

Another pair of socks being worn for the very first time. Can you guess by now where the yarn might have come from? If you guessed Oregon, you’d be correct although these are not from the coast, the yarn came from Knitted Wit in Portland, the same as the Alaskan socks above.

The socks of John Wise in Phoenix, Arizona

These are just some of the socks Caroline has made for my feet. She had a pair at her desk that needed repairing of the sole as they were getting thin, and had I seen them, I would have collected that pair, too, for my photo. The socks just above these are currently on my feet, so I figured that was okay as I had the photo.

The top row of socks, starting with the green-striped pair on the left are from Fiber Factory that was right here in Arizona. The pair of orange and blue to the right came from the same shop. The 3rd pair from the left is from somewhere in Oregon, while the fourth pair is too, but from Newport. The red and green are from the Espanola Valley Fiber Arts Center in New Mexico. The sixth pair is from Knit Happens in Scottsdale, Arizona. The yarn provenance of the next pair with blue, dark red, and green is lost in the fog of time. The last two pairs on the top right are from yarn bought in Haines, Alaska.

The bottom row of socks from the left starts with the Oregon socks I described in the second photo. The second pair are the socks from Wollmeile in Vienna that I wrote about a couple of photos ago. The dark purple socks are from Germany. The blue-gray socks are from Germany and were knitted by my mother-in-law, Jutta, with help from Caroline and Stephanie, my sister-in-law. The blue and red socks in the middle are from Frankfurt, Germany. The colorful yellow-red-blue glitchy pattern is also from Knitted Wit in Portland. The light gray and dark gray pair is also from Frankfurt while the next gray pair is also from Germany. The second to last pair is from Fiber Factory. The last pair is from the Yarn Barn in Florence, Oregon.

Hand Knitted Robot for John Wise on the Polish Border

Not only do I have nearly two dozen hand-knitted pairs of socks, but I also have two made-with-love plushies. This Love Robot (Mochimochiland pattern “LuvBot”) was smuggled into Europe back in 2013 without my knowledge, and then, at an opportune moment, Caroline surprised me on the Polish border with this gift celebrating my 50th birthday. You can’t see all the binary digits around my birthday gift, so I’ll just share what it translates to J 50. What else the reader cannot know, and I may not be able to adequately relate to you, is the tenderness, love, and delight that Caroline brought to this moment of pulling Mr. Robot out of hiding. Not only had she made it without my knowledge, not only had she slipped it into our luggage prior to leaving the States, but she’d kept it under wraps until just the right moment in a unique location that would forever punctuate her presenting this gift of love. You would have had to see her eyes and the emotion that came with getting one over on me while surprising me at the same time.

Hand knitted gift of love from Caroline Wise to John Wise

And just as this yarn about yarn started with the two main characters spoken above, so it ends. This was a gift to me ten years ago when Caroline knitted this caricature of me, notice the gray hair, with her wrapped in my snug arms, the embrace of love (Mochimochiland pattern: “Hugs and Squoze”).

Virtual Whitewater Rafting

Virtual Yampa River Rafting Group

For the past few days at 10:00 a.m. Caroline and I get to board our virtual raft and head down the Yampa River for some digital adventures during this time that none of us get to travel in real life. Our whitewater guides Chris and Charles reached out to a bunch of former clients who’d been on river trips with them in the past and asked if anyone would be interested in a bit of an experiment. Without hesitation, we signed up. The premise was that we’d explore what it would be like to venture down the river using Zoom and segments of the river trip itself that Google captured with StreetView some years ago.

On Saturday, May 16th we joined with Chris, Charles, and fellow guests Jen and Steve and headed over to the virtual put-in. A couple of guests didn’t show sadly so it was an intimate trip, but we understood that it took a different breed of brave souls for this first descent down the Yampa River at near flood stage. The put-in was familiar to all of us as Jen and Steve had also traveled the Yampa, but have been lucky enough to run the Gates of Lodore up the Green River too. On each day the guys took over the virtual oars and took us into a story about the river or engaged us to share memorable moments from our own river trips. Along the way, we learned a bit more of the history and refresher lessons about particular aspects of the river and the geology that the river flows through.

Yampa River in Colorado

This photo is from the Yampa trip Caroline and I were on back in 2014; was our virtual journey as spectacular? Of course not, but the interesting aspect of this undertaking is that we spent nearly 4 hours with this group of river enthusiasts who, like us, love rivers. That commonality between us allowed the six of us to share moments of the magic found on river trips and reminded us of our own specific adventures in years past. Listening to the passion of each person was a potent reminder of the effect rivers have on people. So in that sense, the boatmen succeeded in creating a memorable moment that took us outside of our comfort as we had to quickly adapt to a situation that involved others we didn’t know beforehand as we navigated a process and path that was unique to all of us.

We’d gladly join another virtual river trip if for no other reason than to support boatmen who are out of work during what should be the busy season but also because river trips are all about finding it deep within us to see things differently. I would be a fool to scoff at the idea that this wasn’t valuable as first and foremost it was the passion of Charles and Chris and their need to share from their experience that is one of those human traits we should all aspire to. Thank you guys for the effort and for getting us out of our stay-at-home routines during these difficult times.

Hidden in the Shadows

Shadows of Caroline Wise and John Wise in Phoenix, Arizona

We no longer live out on the stage of what was a normal life; we are not on vacation in some iconic location; we are not on our way anywhere familiar. We are instead existing at home, living in our minds, traveling beyond the shadows of who we were. On the other side of those former persons that were us, of the people who saw the world through the eyes of “things are the way they are,” are different people who cannot take for granted that those “things” will stay the way they were. The waves of the ocean no longer crash upon the shore we knew but, instead, roll in towards senses hungry to feast on such rarities momentarily forbidden.

Of course, it’s always been this way, but we didn’t want the brevity of our experiences and time on Earth to stand in front of our consciousness, flailing the arms of certain death that this is all temporary. We trick ourselves and reassure our inner dialog that we can do this or that tomorrow, next week, next year, or simply, someday. We remain largely unaware that as the day passes, the shadow of our life expectancy grows shorter. Early in the morning, our shadows stretch far, and likewise, early in our lives, the horizon is difficult to see, while comprehending it may forever elude some. What are we supposed to do with an infinite horizon where time has no meaning?

Disappearing from our normal lives in this state of self-isolation, threatened by the hostility of an invisible stalker called COVID-19, should awaken those who cannot see beyond their noses. Fear of the unknown and desire for the familiar have them waiting for a return to their routines. This has not become the opportunity to find new regard for the transient nature of life and the ephemeral, fleeting impressions brought to their senses by novelty. It is the control mechanism of the oppressor. It is the abusive father, the demanding teacher, the tyrant found in one’s boss. This though is a myopic view of the person who never learned of their own agency. They have mastered the role of the victim and have grown comfortable hiding in the margin of life, not emerging from fear.

Granted, there are those who are in dire need of counseling, continuing education, or financial assistance who simply must do what it takes in order to survive, but that, too, is a consequence of living in the moment of not understanding what’s ahead. The inability to have been prepared for life is the same as walking towards the cliff and hoping that the hand of God will be there to catch you before you fall into the void. If we can understand the folly of such a stupid act, how do we blind ourselves to the need to have life safety nets? The answer is relatively easy, even if assumptive: nobody really cares about those around them. In that sense, we are not holding one another’s hands and helping each other along.

Masked John Wise and Caroline Wise in Phoenix, Arizona

Too many live behind masks even when they are not wearing ones of a physical nature. When I go shopping, I see many men obviously not comfortable wearing a surgical mask, and yet the masks they are wearing, as a consequence, speak more about them and their selfishness than simply being out shopping can portray. How well do these people really know themselves if they cannot empathize with those who are looking to live? Am I suggesting that those without masks are likely narcissistic, angry assholes? Yes.

The funny thing about my gross characterization is that I’ve often been called a narcissistic asshole myself because of my determination to get what I want. I don’t try to get things in life at the expense of others (though there are those who would call bullshit on that); then again, they want someone who will do for them what they fail to inspire themselves to do, so there’s that. Their masks are the ones of having lived under a shadow of isolation where love was something found in movies for women or was experienced as a good fuck, but still, their lives remained empty.

I’m taking inventory of things I might be taking for granted, though I thought I was fully appreciative of all that I stumbled upon. For example, Caroline and I were always pinching ourselves at our good fortune of being able to travel so much that we had the means. Maybe I didn’t quite understand how lucky I was to have eyes, ears, and other senses that are able to be present at places of beauty, historic importance, or some other element of grandeur. I knew that I had the characteristics of a person who wanted to explore, but I thought those were common. I’ve assumed that others, if they had the financial capability, would indulge themselves in a lifelong ambition to seek out knowledge and experience, but COVID-19 is showing me, or maybe to some degree reinforcing, the idea that those who want to remain in old habits have no interest in what the unknown has to offer.

It’s easy to know that Caroline and I on a desert island would need 60 rolls of toilet paper per year or that we eat about 200 pounds of onions between us over those same 365 days, so we can now plan accordingly before we’re shipwrecked. Yes, this has been gleaned over the past 44 days of self-isolation. As a matter of fact, seeing how COVID-19 might return later this year, this knowledge may prove helpful during the fall and winter. What’s not easy to know is how we are changing after hearing so many birds in our neighborhood or seeing so many lizards growing fat as the days grow warm. We could not have known how generous we’d feel to help others during this crisis or how mistrustful of those who are not aware of the space they are in. There’s almost no food waste in our lives right now and we are happy to be frequently making our own cereal and bread. We are happy to explore our hobbies and wish there was even more time in the day to explore the interests that feed our minds.

Once we are able again to venture out to other places we’ll be in our car and heading somewhere, likely to the Oregon coast. This next trip, though will be aware of what part of us we have to leave behind and of that part of us in self-isolation that was dormant as our new routines had us stuck in our immediate environment. I hope our senses will be flush with the symbiotic and profound awareness of awe that our real freedom is always there and is ever-present so long as we maintain intellectual forward motion. Our happiness seems premised on the idea that we can neither live in the shadows of hope nor behind the mask of fear and uncertainty. We cannot trade one form of self-isolation for the illusion of freedom found in another flavor of self-isolation. We must go forward and deeper within every day.

Stay In The Magic – Day 18

Grand Canyon National Park

“We are soooo lucky!” Rondo’s words no longer need to be spoken; we know them; they are in our dreams. The familiar call of “Coffee’s ready” moves us out of our sleeping bags. Packing up is easy this morning. Caroline runs the nearly overflowing blue bucket to the river, gives it a rinse, and adds it to the other buckets being collected.

The sky is heavy and overcast; it is one of the signals that our time here is done. Bruce and Katrina have prepared us banana walnut pancakes with a side of peaches and yogurt. Dishes are quickly cleaned and stowed, tables collapsed, and put back on rafts. Dry bags land with their familiar thump on the sand before being stacked in the equally familiar pattern used to best distribute their weight on the rafts. Another drop of the toilet seat in the distance indicates that the Unit is about to be free. With most everything packed up, Jeffe announces, “Last call to shit in a can!”

Personal Flotation Device named Zoroaster from OARS in the Grand Canyon

It’s 8:30. Time to go. One more laugh has been saved for us. Rondo is wearing his “Going Home” shirt, the one his wife doesn’t quite appreciate. It is emblazoned with the caption, “Arrgh, Prepare To Be Boarded.”

Caroline Wise on the Colorado River in the Grand Canyon

In our seats, Rondo leads a final cheer of, “Dories, Hooooooo!” We push off. Echoes of the days past follow me down the Canyon. I can still hear the faint song of “Wagon Wheel” sung during our Halloween party. “Do you want to go big?” and “I’m her mom” blur with the sounds of raindrops hitting the tent and the rumble of snoring. “A clean boat is a happy boat,” “keep us level,” and “bail, bail, bail” trail off, and finally, “That was fun.”

The oar slips into the water, and with a gentle pull, we go further. Like all of these days, the dory takes us to the place we know not. For these closing moments, we are still on the Colorado, living the experience of a lifetime. One more stop. The dories and rafts form a circle under a large sound-reflecting cliffside, and Katrina sings us one final song. It is titled “Traveling On” and was written by her friend Rick Meyer on the Lower Rio Grande during a river trip much like this one. Our boats spin slowly on the calm water while we listen to the poignant lyrics. Her voice has me traveling far outside of my emotional comfort zone, and I’m not alone. Many a tear is being added back to the river during Katrina’s heartfelt parting gift.

John Wise on the Colorado River in the Grand Canyon

Mile 224 is behind us, and 225 will come and go as the trucks are spotted on the short beach ahead. They stand ready to make this entire enterprise disappear. Other boaters will soon arrive behind us. The speed with which our evacuation is orchestrated is evidence that we will soon be gone. One more riverside box lunch is prepared, but this one is not to be eaten next to a waterfall; it won’t be enjoyed in the Grand Canyon either. It is for our drive back to Flagstaff. We choose the van that will carry us and our belongings, and for the first time in weeks, we will put ourselves in a vehicle without oars.

There is no last look back up the river. There is no time for sentimentality. There can be no eye contact with anyone; the emotions are running harder than the river we just left.

The road out is bumpy. Dust kicks up, and the Canyon fades.

And of the days that follow?

Those are your days, your story. Make the time to find the magic in your experiences.

It all starts when you fall in love with it all.

–From my book titled: Stay In The Magic – A Voyage Into The Beauty Of The Grand Canyon about our journey down the Colorado back in late 2010.