Ocean and Rainbows

Santa Monica, California

It’s Labor Day in America, and that means it’s also the last day of our time in Southern California, but that doesn’t imply that we’re just taking off for a quick drive back across the deserts of California and Arizona so we can get home early. Nope, we had things to do, such as head down Wilshire Blvd to the Santa Monica Pier as who doesn’t enjoy a walk out over the ocean?

Santa Monica, California

I think these plump specimens of pigeonhood have become accustomed to the feeding hands of people. The closer we got, the closer we got, meaning they didn’t scatter. Nope, they focused those evil beady red eyes on us as if questioning us, “Whatchya got in the way of snackies to offer, so we don’t need to poop on you?”

Santa Monica, California

Meanwhile, the pelican looks on from above, thinking, “I already know you, sorry skin-sacks got no fish, so I may as well poo on you, be careful where you walk.”

Santa Monica, California

In my opinion, pelicans are right behind the albatross in cool factor with regards to birds that soar over the water. Look at its form, wing tips seemingly just millimeters off the surface; head pulled back as if resting it on the body, looking for all the world as if it were in cruising mode and when pelicans are going to go in for something to eat, they rear up and divebomb with that long beak piercing the water’s surface as if to open a portal into the sea for it to grab its meal.

Santa Monica, California

In the first years, Caroline and I would travel from Phoenix to the Los Angeles area it wasn’t uncommon for headaches to creep up on us as we entered the smog vector somewhere near Palm Springs. Through the mountains, a brown cloud not made of fog wafted to the east, and we had to drive right into it. That was common for us in the mid to late 90s, but over time, it’s been improving gradually. Now, if only better mass transportation and more affordable housing for the underclass could be facilitated to remove the traffic gridlock and scale of the homeless problem, Los Angeles would only become a better and better place to live.

Santa Monica, California

Then again, with a greater quality of life, a greater density of residents competing for resources would only grow dire. If the pier here in Santa Monica were round-the-clock mayhem as it is on a Friday or Saturday night, maybe things wouldn’t be quite as enchanting as they are here on a quiet early morning while a calm sea laps at the pylons of the pier and gently rolls onshore.

Santa Monica, California

With nearly two hours ahead of us before our next “date,” all we can do is wander around enjoying the beautiful day.

Santa Monica, California

And though we love the evening vibe here on the promenade, we thoroughly enjoy the morning solitude.

Santa Monica, California

Our “date” is a documentary we are taking in this morning here on the Third Street Promenade in Santa Monica. Side by Side, produced and narrated by Keanu Reeves, is a comparative look at the differences between film and digital workflows in the making of movies.

Rainbows over the California Desert

We had one more stop in Los Angeles before hitting the road back east and that was at Yoma Myanmar in Monterey Park, a little Burmese joint of a restaurant. By the time we are in the desert, dark clouds on the horizon portend some inclement weather in our future, that and rainbows.

Rainbows over the California Desert

Rainbows and hints of double rainbows.

Rainbows over the California Desert

Even a full rainbow that had us get off the freeway for a better photo.

Rainbows over the California Desert

How about some more double rainbow? Yep, this is how we travel: blue skies, great food, awesome experiences, and rainbows everywhere we go.

California Coast

Beach near Santa Barbara, California

Disclaimer of sorts, as with the first post from this Labor Day weekend in Los Angeles, this post wasn’t penned and pushed into the sunlight until the summer of 2023, 11 years after the events depicted took place. And so, without further ado, let’s jump into the sea. Once again, we awoke at the Wilshire Motel, except this time, we bolted north on Highway 101 because we had a date with a yarn store in Santa Barbara.

Caroline Wise on beach near Santa Barbara, California

Being who we are (meaning: John and Caroline, just to be clear), we were not going to drive by the ocean without stopping to admire where the sea meets the shore, gaze at how the sun is illuminating all of this, and hold out until we spot a bit of wildlife.

Beach near Santa Barbara, California

Well, these seagulls will do just fine for our wildlife encounter. Time to continue the trek north.

Backyard Bowls in Santa Barbara, California

This was not our first time to Backyard Bowls for breakfast here in Santa Barbara, not even our second or third. Looking for a fresh treat to start the day with a bunch of fruit atop acai or porridge? Then this place is for you. Note to Caroline, who will edit this before it’s published: Backyard Bowls now has locations in the Los Angeles area; just saying.

Santa Barbara, California

The beautiful hibiscus flower is also a tasty treat, especially when used in tea.

The Casa Covarrubias in Santa Barbara, California

We are visiting the Casa Covarrubias Adobe, built in 1817, which is now a historical landmark here in Santa Barbara, California. It’s also one of the oldest buildings from the earliest days when the city was just taking shape.

Loom at the Casa Covarrubias in Santa Barbara, California

If there are tools of the fiber trade, then you just know that Caroline would be looking for a photo, and this loom featuring some ancient parts fits that bill.

Casa Covarrubias in Santa Barbara, California

I can’t remember if we sampled the grapes growing here. I’d like to think I did, but I’m also fairly certain that Caroline would have reminded me that if everyone helped themselves, there’d be nothing left for photos of yummy grapes still on the vine glowing in the morning sun.

Casa Covarrubias in Santa Barbara, California

Just where the adobe gives way to the El Presidio de Santa Barbara State Historic Park is lost on me in long-forgotten memories, and I’m too lazy at the moment to tease them apart. I’m astonished at our good luck in visiting the Santa Barbara area mostly when the weather is stunningly perfect.

Courthouse in Santa Barbara, California

It’s a short walk over to the County Courthouse of Santa Barbara, another historic site.

Courthouse in Santa Barbara, California

This is the Mural Room; it was once the County Supervisors’ Assembly Room.

Courthouse in Santa Barbara, California

The courthouse opened in 1929 following a devastating earthquake; it would come to define the architectural style that Santa Barbara is known for.

Courthouse in Santa Barbara, California

View from the courthouse clock tower. Is there any wonder why Santa Barbara has become one of the greatest places to live in the United States?

Caroline Wise and John Wise visiting the Courthouse in Santa Barbara, California

If we were millionaires or willing to not have a life beyond a mortgage, we’d live here. Instead, we’ll have to satisfy ourselves that we can afford the luxury of frequent visits.

Arlington Theater in Santa Barbara, California

The Arlington Theater was built in 1931 and can seat 2,000 visitors, no wonder they host concerts here in addition to showing films.

Caroline Wise at Loop & Leaf in Santa Barbara, California

NO! Did someone assume because it’s the weekend that, the very reason for visiting Santa Barbara, the Loop & Leaf yarn and tea shop would be open? Sadly for my morose-faced wife, her opportunity to splurge on the only real luxury she shops for has been squashed.

La Super-Rica Taqueria in Santa Barbara, California

Nothing left to do but eat the blues away under a pretty blue sky. Based on a tip, we’ll endure the lengthy line here at La Super-Rica Taqueria because the food is that highly recommended. Was it worth it? With a super enthusiastic exclamation of Muy Rico! Yes, it was worth the wait.

Caroline Wise on beach near Santa Barbara, California

One more stop at the oceanside for a walk in the sand before continuing south as we’re staying one more night at the Wilshire Motel.

Mashti Malone's Ice Cream in Hollywood, California

Based on this image, we can be certain we had ice cream at Mashti Malone’s, but nothing else is known about the evening. Where’d we have dinner? Did we catch a movie, walk around Hollywood or Santa Monica? Nada is known, no photos, no notes, no nothing.

L.A. Conservancy Tour

Wilshire Motel in Los Angeles, California

In the march forward through the long-neglected blog landscape, alas, yet another few days discovered gathering digital dust on the hard drive of a forgotten time. Here I am now in the future, the year 2023, when, with forensic tools, I uncover these images with great clarity, but the exact details of what we are doing these days, aside from the obvious, will remain buried in brains, not prone to giving up secrets. To state the easily apparent, we stayed at the good ole Wilshire Motel which was often our go-to place for a weekend in L.A.

Grand Central Market in Los Angeles, California

Taking ourselves to the Grand Central Market in Downtown L.A. was out of the ordinary but made sense, considering we are right next door to a meeting point that has everything to do with the primary reason for this visit to Southern California.

Los Angeles, California

There’s something in common with more than a few of these old posts; it typically takes me some time to remember that I might have the itinerary and that it could have details that would help add to the story. Sure enough, I discovered something we’ll do here at the end of the day that I had no photos for and would have consequently missed; I’ll share it after the last photo.

Million Dollar Theater in Los Angeles, California

This is the Million Dollar Theater on Broadway, where we are meeting our tour guide from the L.A. Conservancy for the Broadway Historic Theatre and Commercial District Walking Tour. After learning about some of the history of Sid Grauman’s Million Dollar Theater and the current state of the theater that we couldn’t visit, we moved on to the next location.

Bradbury Building in Los Angeles, California

The famous Bradbury Building that I’ve likely written about on more than one occasion.

Bradbury Building in Los Angeles, California

Does Blade Runner come to mind?

Caroline Wise at the Bradbury Building in Los Angeles, California

Hello Caroline…

Bradbury Building in Los Angeles, California

As I considered what to write here and started using image search to identify a few facades I couldn’t figure out, I thought about going into some history, but this might not be the best use of my time. Though I’d learn a lot, and Caroline too would capture some history we didn’t retain from our original tour, this post will likely remain unseen by anyone as it’s inserted into its holding place carrying a date nearly a dozen years old. Who, after all, looks at such dated posts?

Los Angeles, California

What I can offer is that we’ve enjoyed the various tours we’ve taken from the L.A. Conservancy and can only hope they remain well-funded and able to continue offering their events and tours for years to come.

Roxie Theater in Downtown Los Angeles, California

Permanence is not part of the American vocabulary if financial utility can move to a newer, shinier location. Once the exodus begins to cheaper digs, decay sets in, and the value of what was once grand is allowed to fall into nothing.

Inside the old Roxie Theater in Downtown Los Angeles, California

Lucky us, the current tenant of the space formerly known as Roxie Theater allowed us inside to see for ourselves that it now serves as a warehouse but still has the décor and movie screen present.

Paramount Sign in Los Angeles, California

Prior to the move to Hollywood, many of the studios were located right here in the Downtown Los Angeles core. Fading for decades is the old logo of Paramount Pictures on the side of this building.

Sidewalk at the Pantages Theater in Los Angeles, California

This terrazzo sidewalk used to be part of the Pantages Theater.

Los Angeles, California

Detail of the Beaux Arts and Spanish Baroque style Broadway-Spring Arcade Building.

Los Angeles Theater in Los Angeles, California

The Los Angeles Theater, built in 1931, was considered to be the most lavish of Broadway’s great movie palaces. Reading about all these old theaters, I got curious about the oldest operating theater in the U.S., it turns out to be in Washington, Iowa. The State Theater has been open since 1897 and is still showing movies as of 2023.

Palace Theater in Los Angeles, California

Growing up in the Los Angeles area and a frequent visitor of the downtown area, I wasn’t able to really consider the history of what I was seeing as I was simply overwhelmed by the sense of scale and decay of the city I was walking through. Learning that the Palace Theater was originally the Orpheum and was built in 1911 for vaudeville acts, not the movies, comes as a surprise, as is the fact that the building was loosely based upon a Renaissance-age Florentine palazzo. On its stage, the likes of Harry Houdini, Will Rogers, Fred Astaire, and Rita Hayworth have performed.

Los Angeles, California

Pardon the wonky bending in my photo of the State Theater building, but it was created from three different images stacked one upon the other in a panorama, as I couldn’t capture it correctly with the lens I was using.

From a terrific website by Mike Hume / Historic Theatre Photos with the copyright held by him, he wrote of the State Theater:

In 1929, a Bakersfield act called The Gumm Sisters played at the State, featuring a lead singer who earned the nickname “Leather Lungs” for her ability to be heard clearly at the rear of the 125-deep auditorium. As the Great Depression took hold and vaudeville declined (vaudeville ceased at the State in the mid-1930s), the Gumm Sisters moved to Culver City to appear in experimental Technicolor musicals, and “Leather Lungs” changed her name to Judy Garland.

Old Warner Bros. Building in Los Angeles, California

Behind the diamond is an old Warner Bros. logo, and while this was originally a Pantages Theater in 1920, by 1929, it became the home of Warner Bros.

Tower Theater in Los Angeles, California

Tower Theater was once one of the narrowest theaters built; today, the ground floor is an Apple Store.

Rialto Theater in Los Angeles, California

To the casual visitor, I wonder how many of them miss these old marquees?

Orpheum Theater in Los Angeles, California

A bit more background on the Orpheum. These theaters were part of something called the Orpheum Circuit,  a chain of vaudeville and movie theaters. As vaudeville was winding down, Orpheum merged into another company, becoming Radio-Keith-Orpheum (RKO) Pictures. RKO gave us such films as King Kong, Citizen Kane, It’s a Wonderful Life, and Notorious. Howard Hughes took over operations in 1948 before selling shortly ahead of its collapse.

Grand Central Market in Los Angeles, California

Prior to this day, Caroline nor I had ever eaten Salvadoran food so the idea of having a lunch of pupusas at a Pupuseria sounded great to us. As of this writing in 2023, Sarita’s here at the Grand Central Market is still open.

Los Angeles, California

Seeing we’re already parked here downtown, why not spend a little more time and visit the Central Library? During the late 1970s, the Los Angeles Central Library was one of my favorite places to hang out and browse its amazing collection of old books. Little did I know back then that the city had ideas of demolishing this building, and it was that idea that gave rise to the L.A. Conservancy in 1978.

Los Angeles, California

This Globe Chandelier featuring the 48 states that existed when it was built in 1926 for the rotunda of the central library survived the fire that devastated the library in 1986 and is just beautiful.

Los Angeles, California

While the high rises of Los Angeles are imposing from below and make for a great skyline from a distance, they are ultimately impersonal and disposable, in my opinion.

Los Angeles, California

While the old architecture is reflected in the new, the new hardly carries much of its own character that would make it interesting to look at.

Los Angeles, California

This 12-story building, built in 1912, is 100 years old here in 2012 and has found new life as luxury lofts for those fortunate enough to be able to live in such splendor in the heart of L.A. This here should have been the end of the post, as I have no more photos of what we were doing on this day, but as I referenced above regarding itineraries, I had a note in that directory.

It turns out that we saw one of the earliest screenings of the documentary film Samsara, not only that, we had the opportunity to meet and talk for a moment with the director Ron Fricke, who made Baraka too, one of our all-time favorites.

Los Angeles with Jutta – Day 3

Jutta Engelhardt and Caroline Wise at the San Pedro Fish Market in California

San Pedro Fish Market for a late breakfast of a giant fish and mega tray of fajita-style potatoes, onions, and peppers sounded great to Caroline and me; maybe a little unorthodox for my mother-in-law, but she’s a good sport, and what could she do anyway as her home is nearly 6,000 miles away and she is traveling in our car.

San Pedro, California

Plus, how many times in our lives do we get to sit in a dining area where this is the view on a winter day?

Jutta Engelhardt at the San Pedro Fish Market in California

The fish was picked clean aside from the eyeballs as for the veggies, we gave them our best try but were ultimately defeated.

View from Griffith Observatory in Los Angeles, California

Today’s view is courtesy of the incredible efforts to combat smog in the Los Angeles basin and California in general. Out in the middle of this photo is a sliver of blue between the dark land and a silver low horizon of the sky, that’s the Pacific Ocean. More than likely, just to the right and out of view is San Pedro, where we were having breakfast, which is about 30 miles away or probably a couple of hours by car on a weekday.

Griffith Observatory in Los Angeles, California

Here we are at the Griffith Park Observatory in the Hollywood Hills, and strangely enough, after visiting Los Angeles off and on over the past 21 years, this is the first time Caroline and I have made it up here. With this kind of visibility and weather, we couldn’t have picked a better day.

Griffith Observatory in Los Angeles, California

A Foucault Pendulum built back in 1935 is here, but I have to admit that I hope Caroline is willing to add something or other to the description of what exactly makes it a Foucault Pendulum. [In 1851, French physicist Leon Foucault used his pendulum to prove that the Earth rotates. His pendulum shows that when you have a really tall pendulum, it doesn’t just swing back and forth on the same plane, but the plane keeps shifting, and that is caused by the Earth’s rotation and what is called the Coriolis effect. Often, these pendulums are installed in science museums over a basin with flat sand so that the bob’s swings can be traced. – Caroline]

Griffith Observatory in Los Angeles, California

If you’ve never seen a Tesla Coil in operation, this is the place to witness it with your own eyes. When it was donated to the Observatory in 1937, there were a number of parts missing, but it was restored with the help of Kenneth Strickfaden, a Hollywood special FX artist who’d worked on the original Frankenstein with Boris Karloff, the Wizard of Oz, and his last film Young Frankenstein.

Griffith Observatory in Los Angeles, California

I don’t think I’m wrong about this educated guess, but that should be the San Gabriel Mountains in the distance, with Mt. Wilson being the highest peak.

View from Griffith Observatory in Los Angeles, California

Maybe a little redundant, considering I posted another photo above that included downtown Los Angeles, but I’m amazed by the view that I never knew growing up out here in the 70s.

Jutta Engelhardt and Caroline Wise at Griffith Observatory in Los Angeles, California

Just hanging out, trying to walk off breakfast so we can grab an early dinner on the way back to Phoenix. Jutta was highly intrigued by the observatory since it is featured in the film “Rebel Without a Cause” with James Dean (whom she had a crush on back in the day).

Hollywood sign in California

Will I ever again have the opportunity to see the Hollywood sign with such clarity?

Yoma Myanmar Restaurant in Monterey Park, California

An empty plate is not the most compelling image. Heck, maybe none of the photos I share here are truly compelling, but I’m not posting to impress others; I’m posting to stoke the distant memories of those who experienced these days, that being Caroline and myself. From that one piece of oily green vegetable matter above the fork, I can be certain that this plate held a portion of Laphet Thoke, also known as Burmese fermented green tea salad. This place called Yoma Myanmar in Monterey Park was our food stop on our way home.

Los Angeles with Jutta – Day 2

Wilshire Motel in Los Angeles, California

Don’t neglect your stories because 10 or 20 years later, you might find yourself browsing your memories and looking at a sequence of photos, you’ll discover that nothing much of those days still exists from the depths of your head. I’m writing this in early 2022, having just stayed at the Wilshire Motel in Los Angeles, so it is a no-brainer that our day started here, but the details are remote.

Caroline Wise and Jutta Engelhardt in Santa Monica, California

With that landmass in the background, I can be assured that Caroline and Jutta are standing on the beach in Santa Monica north of the pier, but that’s about it.

Jutta Engelhardt in Santa Monica, California

To make my task more difficult, I’ve gone ahead and chosen 19 images to include here; not that I’ll have enough to write about the day, but I like what I captured, and they do remind me of those days we made our first visit to the museum just below.

Getty Villa in Los Angeles, California

Here we are at the Getty Villa in Pacific Palisades.

Getty Villa in Los Angeles, California

I can’t believe we could have chosen a more beautiful day to be here.

Getty Villa in Los Angeles, California

An early “Talk to the Hand” sculpture.

Getty Villa in Los Angeles, California

Please excuse the following images for not having anything noted about them, but, to be honest, I got nothing…well, aside from inspiration, respect, and admiration

Getty Villa in Los Angeles, California

Getty Villa in Los Angeles, California

Getty Villa in Los Angeles, California

Getty Villa in Los Angeles, California

Getty Villa in Los Angeles, California

Getty Villa in Los Angeles, California

Getty Villa in Los Angeles, California

Getty Villa in Los Angeles, California

Caroline Wise and Jutta Engelhardt at Daikokuya Ramen Shop in Little Tokyo Los Angeles, California

I’d recognize this tiny shop in the heart of Los Angeles in a second; it is Daikokuya Little Tokyo, which, in my narrow opinion, has the best ramen on the west coast of America.

Niko Pueringer of Corridor Digital in Little Tokyo Los Angeles, California

At the time of our visit, I was a huge fan of the work coming out of the YouTube channel Corridor Digital, and as luck would have it, I ran into this guy, Niko Pueringer, who was waiting on a to-go order. Shamelessly, I asked to snag a photo of this minor celebrity; what they were doing with special FX and short storytelling I thought was genius.

Jutta Engelhardt, Caroline Wise, and John Wise at the Shrine Auditorium in Los Angeles, California

Taking up our nosebleed seats way in the back, yep, that’s the wall about four rows behind us. Before explaining the reason for our attendance, let me share a tiny bit of nostalgia about the Shrine Auditorium: the scene in the 1933 version of King Kong where Kong breaks out of chains while being exhibited on stage was filmed right here.

Mahler Performance at the Shrine Auditorium in Los Angeles, California

Now, on to the really big show, and I do mean REALLY BIG! Caroline, Jutta, nor I have ever attended a performance that featured 1011 people on stage, but that’s what Gustavo Dudamel has assembled before him as he conducts Gustav Mahler’s Symphony No. 8, and we were on hand so that we even got tickets for the extravaganza was a bit of a minor miracle.