Last Day in Alaska

Caroline Wise at Oomingmak Shop in Anchorage, Alaska

It’s not always easy to know what’s important when it is so, and so it happened back in 2012 following a monumental experience that took us down the Alsek River out of the Yukon into British Columbia, and finally delivered us to Dry Bay, Alaska that all the important stuff was duly noted and extensively blogged about using near 30,000 words and just under 200 or so photos. Well, that was 11 years ago, and in looking back I realized that I neglected writing of our last, equally important day, of our first visit to this corner of the earth. Now in 2023, I’m going to try and repair that by including what I can about this day in the Anchorage, Alaska, area.

Had we done nothing else, Caroline required that we make a pilgrimage to the Oomingmak Co-Operative. This is possibly the only place on our entire planet where one can walk in and buy a handknit object created from a fiber known as qiviut, which comes from a rare northern creature called musk ox. The “Pack Ice” headband design Caroline is wearing will likely forever remain the most expensive small article of clothing she will ever buy at $130. And, as she reminds me, she chose the “discount option” because the yarn of this headband is 80% qiviut and 20% silk. No matter the expense, I’m certain Caroline will forever cherish this rarest of luxuries and how it will remain a part of her first experience in the wilds of Alaska.

Seward Highway thru the Chugach National Forest in Alaska

I’m barely into the narrative that accompanies these photos, but with the 21 images I’ve included here and then the realization that I only used about an average of a dozen photos per day in the original blog entries, I feel I need to return for further investigation of how I whittled nearly 5,500 photos down to the tiny number I shared. I do know a huge contributing factor to my possible lethargy in tackling more: I had just recently finished writing, editing, and publishing my seminal (and only) book titled Stay In The Magic about the Grand Canyon rafting adventure on which we had marked back at the end of 2010 prior to this Alaska trip and I’d had enough of venting my heart and mind. Looking at this railroad track, I’d like to try the corny, “That train has left the station,” but knowing me, I’ll revisit those directories of old photos and see if I might feel enticed to add a little something here and there.

Seward Highway thru the Chugach National Forest in Alaska

After two weeks in this environment, nothing had grown old. Every vista was spectacular and held an incredible amount of mystery as at best, we could only glimpse the tiniest of surface views regarding what the environment holds beyond the first glance.

Seward Highway thru the Chugach National Forest in Alaska

Our flight doesn’t depart until shortly after midnight, so we are driving somewhat aimlessly southeast until we know that we need to turn around.

Seward Highway thru the Chugach National Forest in Alaska

We are driving along the Knik Arm of the Cook Inlet, where the waters flowing out of Portage Lake head to the open sea.

Seward Highway thru the Chugach National Forest in Alaska

The telltale turquoise watercolor lets us know that a glacier is ahead.

Seward Highway thru the Chugach National Forest in Alaska

Oops, almost forgot to stop and smell the flowers, a lupine in this case.

Seward Highway thru the Chugach National Forest in Alaska

Looking across Portage Lake at a glaciated area. I don’t think this is part of the Portage Glacier.

Seward Highway thru the Chugach National Forest in Alaska

This was as close to Portage Glacier ice as we were going to get, the remnant of some broken-off ice that drifted across the lake.

Seward Highway thru the Chugach National Forest in Alaska

The road turned to the west, taking us past a bunch of lily ponds; if only we were present when the waters were still and reflected the surrounding mountains.

Kenai Peninsula in Alaska

This was the end of our exploration of the Seward Highway today. After reaching the Welcome to the Kenai Peninsula sign, we decided this should be the time to turn around, as reaching Seward or Homer was out of the question due to our limited time remaining in Alaska.

Caroline Wise at Turnagain Arm Pit on the Seward Highway in Alaska

Having a beer and BBQ at the Turnagain Arm BBQ in Indian, Alaska, on the Seward Highway because even if we had to stop for peanut butter and jelly sandwiches and Kool-Aid, this would still be one of the greatest stops for dinner ever. Does the sunlight have you thinking I meant lunch? Well, it was 7:00 p.m. when this photo was taken.

Anchorage Coastal Wildlife Refuge in Alaska

We’ve stopped at the Potter Marsh area after spotting birds galore, and everyone knows that this is exactly the right number of birds to arrest our attention and force us from the car to inspect all of them.

Anchorage Coastal Wildlife Refuge in Alaska

Unless you live in Alaska or some other northern clime, I’m guessing it’s not every day one sees a great black-backed gull chick.

Anchorage Coastal Wildlife Refuge in Alaska

I’m calling it “Arctic Tern with Midnight Snack.”

Anchorage Coastal Wildlife Refuge in Alaska

I literally crawled on my belly, as monumental as it is, to approach this tern from a distance I would have never guessed possible.

Anchorage Coastal Wildlife Refuge in Alaska

From this point, until we reach the airport, I’ve not been able to identify the park we visited, but who cares? Just take a moment to enjoy the warm sunset (9:15 p.m.) light illuminating the grasses in the woods.

Anchorage Coastal Wildlife Refuge in Alaska

More flower-smelling time.

Anchorage Coastal Wildlife Refuge in Alaska

Do you know what they call a daisy in Alaska? Daisy.

Anchorage Coastal Wildlife Refuge in Alaska

And with this last late-day photo, we pointed the car towards the airport to catch our flight.

John Wise, Caroline Wise, and Daniel Billotte flying out of Alaska

We were seated and waiting for a couple of late arrivals, and as one of those stragglers was walking down the aisle, I nudged Caroline and told her that the guy approaching looked a lot like a guy we’d not seen in 5 or 10 years, Daniel Billotte. Of course, she said, “NO WAY!” So, as he started to pass us, I kind of blurted out Daniel under my breath, not directing exactly at him, but his head snapped; sure enough, it was Daniel. How on god’s green earth are we running into this guy on a midnight flight out of Alaska? I’d like to say stranger things have happened, and while this is up there in the unbelievable department, we’ve had our fair share of the No Way.

On The Water

Sunrise at the Harbor Lights Motel in Islamorada, Florida

We awake to a perfect morning on the Atlantic Ocean, having stayed at the cozy Harbor Lights Motel in Islamorada. The alarm in our GPS bleeps its quiet tone to stir us from sleep while darkness lingers outside, allowing us to be ready before the sun makes its appearance. Once outdoors, we walk a few steps to the water’s edge and await as the twilight blue-gray sky warms with orange tones, signaling the return of our star. Nearly an hour passes before we move our location for another perspective of the rising sun.

Indian Key Fill near mile marker 79 in the Florida Keys

A few miles south, with the sun only inches above the horizon, we stop on Indian Key Fill for a wide ocean view as the sun continues its ascent. The water is smooth, the wind calm, and the bright golden sun warms the two of us as we bask under the light of what will surely be a perfect day.

Caroline Wise on Indian Key Fill near mile marker 79 on the Florida Keys

A growl of the stomach says it’s time for breakfast at Mangrove Mike’s Cafe back up on Islamorada. It turned out to be a great recommendation from A1A the day before. I had the Mangrove Oscar, a play on eggs benedict, this one featuring sauteed spinach, poached eggs, grilled shrimp, and bearnaise over an English muffin. Caroline had eggs and potatoes – big deal, my breakfast was great.

Sombrero Beach on Marathon Key in southern Florida

With tummies full and eyes satisfied, it was time to treat the body. Further southward we go, this time to take the advice of the other beach the lady at the Marathon visitor center told us of, Sombrero Beach. A perfect scene of serenity and tranquility, a postcard view of what almost anyone might wish for when going for a swim. Unfortunately for me, I have to pass on getting in as I am hurting from some lower back pain that had crept up on me overnight.

Caroline Wise at Sombrero Beach on Marathon Key in southern Florida

Caroline throws on her snorkel and mask and slides into the warm water for a casual swim with the fishies.

Back in the car still moving at vacation speed, we head for Big Pine Key for an appointment we scheduled with Bill Keogh of Big Pine Kayak Adventures. Arriving early, we backtracked to grab a bite at the historic No Name Pub but found the wait too long and had to opt for a quicker solution for lunch. Luckily, we did; at a nearby off-the-main-drag plaza, we spotted a pizza place selling slices. For dessert, they have chocolate-covered key lime pie on a stick from the Key West Key Lime Pie Company.

Caroline Wise in a kayak for a back country tour led by Bill Keogh of Big Pine Kayak Adventures

I nearly had to pass on getting in the kayak for our second adventure on open water. Once again, at Big Pine Kayak, my back was struggling with excruciating spasms, and we were considering canceling or Caroline going out on her own before a nearby couple, hearing our dilemma, offered to demonstrate some back stretching exercises that might alleviate my pain. That couple was Elyse and Leonard, the other two people who were supposed to go kayaking with us. Elyse is a massage therapist when not saving other travelers from disappointment. The exercises helped and allowed us to join the tour as planned.

Big Pine Kayak Adventures in Florida

At 1:30, we left the dock with kayaks and a dog onboard our tour guide Bill Keogh’s boat as he was taking us out for a back-country tour that promised to keep us busy for the next few hours.

Big Pine Kayak Adventures in Florida

This was Caroline’s and my first open sea, close-to-shore kayaking – just yesterday was our first time ever on a kayak. We had the best time and now look forward to more of it. Floating low in the water next to the red mangroves, going noiselessly through tree tunnels, watching barracuda, an upside-down jellyfish, and simply being out here away from any crowds over clear waters was a bit of the proverbial dream come true. If you know nothing of kayaking and would like a wonderful, patient, and knowledgeable guide you cannot go wrong with Bill over at Big Pine Kayak Adventures.

Caroline Wise and John Wise near Big Pine Key in Florida

But wait, there’s more, as we weren’t done yet. We had paddled back to Bill’s boat he’d anchored, and were on our way to destination number two.

Pelicans sitting atop mangrove trees near Big Pine Key in Florida

As you can see, we were approaching sunset as Bill brought us out to a pelican rookery a couple of miles away from where we were kayaking. We quietly drift up to a small island with what appears to be hundreds of pelicans.

Near Big Pine Key in Florida

For the next half hour, we hang out along a mangrove shore, watching birds waiting for the sunset.

Caroline Wise near Big Pine Key in Florida

Not only were winged birds in my gaze, but this one was, too.

Near Big Pine Key in Florida

Seems that we, too, were being watched by these feathered giants.

Sunset in the Florida Keys

Then, as the sky started approaching the horizon, Bill brought us back to Big Pine Key at mile marker 30 so we might all get some well-deserved dinner after such an adventurous day.

Briefly

Caroline Wise in Santa Barbara, California

Here she was and just as quickly gone again.

Heron in Santa Barbara, California

Sunday morning and another five-hour visit to the sea.

Heron in Santa Barbara, California

Caroline and I tried to spend as much of our time together as we could find. It is by now going on a month since coming to Santa Barbara and the end is not yet in sight.

Great white heron at the Goleta Slough near Santa Barbara, California

Next week, on the 4th, we are supposed to take a vacation up in Michigan, but, as of this moment, that is one big uncertainty. As evening rolled around, Caroline and I made our way back down south to Burbank for her to catch a flight back to Arizona – sigh.