Superbooth Day 3

Berlin, Germany

Welcome to my last full day in this eastern corner of Berlin, where I’ve taken a liking to the quiet neighborhood and my daily walk to and from FEZ. Today is perfect, allowing me to leave my jacket in the room in order to lighten my load and not worry about where I stow it at Superbooth. I’ve progressively gotten later and slower on the 4.5km walk over the Spree River and into the woods. While I’ve shared a few images of the forest, I thought it was time to show what it is I walk by as I’m passing through the neighborhood I’m staying in. Springtime is in full celebration, and I can’t throw enough superlatives at my feelings of enthusiasm for it.

Berlin, Germany

If there was a war for identifying a problem and stickering the world would win the offensive, the anti-Nazi side would surely be winning. I’ve seen anti-AFD (right-wing nut jobs) graffiti in an impossible spot to spray paint high up on the side of a seven-floor building, but there it was. Every day I see something written, plastered, or painted on surfaces everywhere, letting fascist dickheads know where people stand. The only problem is that there’s a giant silent majority that is implicitly supporting the ugly rise of nationalism due to fear of non-white immigrants who stir the anxiety that Germans will lose their Germanness if those coming for work do not integrate into the culture.

Their concerns cannot be dismissed out of hand, as I’ve seen first hand while living in Frankfurt 25 years ago and subsequently walking around Germany and other corners of Europe the past couple of years that there is self-isolation from those who have taken refuge here, but isolation also from Europeans who hold some deep-rooted hostility towards those who are failing to conform to social norms and blend in.

As the future is never explained at the bottom of the cup of tea leaves, we can only hope and work hard towards making our experiment of living in a civilization come to positive fruition. Maybe encouraging people to eat more Nazis might help, too, so I think I’ll have a bowl of them later.

ADDAC at Superbooth 2019 in Berlin, Germany

The ADDAC System‘s crew, led by the skinny guy on the left, won the Superbooth 2019 award for Biggest Rack at Show. These Portuguese guys are bundled with an incredibly well-adjusted sense of humor and are welcoming in the most heartfelt way. André Gonçalves (the skinny guy) is the founder of the company whom I first encountered online when I ordered the MONSTER Frame you see behind the guys.

Now that I’ve sung their praises, let me tell you of the evil they represent. The rack you see is different than mine in that it has an extra row at the top that attaches to the base of the frame, and then down in the front row is a new addition to their brand of exploiting people’s financial stability in the form of a single 197hp row that conveniently sits in front of the already enormous 1,379hp of MONSTER. The expense of filling this thing is bad enough without adding the insult of being able to add another 394hp of aesthetically integrated wallet-emptying torture.

When I was asked by Andreas Berthling (in the center) which ADDAC modules I owned, I almost fell on the floor in laughter at the thought they should be responsible for taking anything else from me; at least I still have some dignity and haven’t given them everything. Of course, most of this is hyperbolic nonsense as, given the opportunity to acquire a second MONSTER and add a couple of rows of their modules to my collection, I’d be right on it. Sadly, it’s difficult to get your hands on the modules in the United States to gather first-hand experience of just what they are like. So this is a hint to the skinny guy to bring on a retailer or two in the U.S. who ALWAYS have everything in stock so John Wise can have the convenience of not needing to head to Lisbon to learn more about things like the Voltage Controlled Stochastic Function Generator, Marble Physics, and the Lissajous Curves. Finally, the quiet guy on the right is Ruben Costa, who I think would be more talkative if he grew a beard.

Superbooth 2019 in Berlin, Germany

Meet Dan Green, Baby Green, and Kendra, who without the baby would probably be only sorta cool as the force behind 4ms Company. Oh, I know someone will correct me and say Kendra and the baby are not officially part of the company of wireheads who build some great modules, but I’d disagree because anyone who is happily married knows that much of their passion, drive, and dedication comes to them from being soundly in love. Maybe you don’t see that love in the photo as they stare at me and my camera, but I saw them look at each other and hand Baby Green between each other, so I can tell you with greater certainty than the next 4ms module being released on time that they are digging life and the bundle of love between them.

Chris Meyer of Learning Modular at Superbooth 2019 in Berlin, Germany

Ah, my favorite teacher on the internet is Chris Meyer. I first learned of his wizardry more than a decade ago when I was trying to learn Adobe After Effects, and he and his wife Trish were masters of that universe. Today, Chris is doing the same for the modular community with his Learning Modular website. His methodical deep dives into the intricacies of systems, concepts, and individual modules come from being immersed in electronic music since way back in the late 1970s. Most recently, he collaborated with Kim Bjørn to produce the book titled PATCH & TWEAK – Exploring Modular Synthesis, which is epic in the way it looks at the current state of Eurorack. Yes, YOU should buy one today.

Superbooth 2019 in Berlin, Germany

Benefiting from the large shoulders of Chris Meyer and, of course, DivKid Ben, we come to Robin Vincent of Molten Modular. I first stumbled upon his YouTube material while looking to connect my Eurorack gear to Bitwig. Turned out that Robin was also playing with the Microsoft Surface, just as I was and still am.

Superbooth 2019 in Berlin, Germany

You think you’ve seen it all here at Superbooth, and then you take a turn down a hall that you somehow missed, and an entire universe of synth-related stuff is packed in these back rooms. I found Moog through one door and this art/music room through another, along with a presentation room further on where I never took the time to tune in to what was going on, which is likely a shame. I suppose all those people over these three days who asked if I was returning next year knew something I didn’t: I was probably missing out a lot due to the social butterfly act I was performing.

Superbooth 2019 in Berlin, Germany

Just some of the women in synths who were attending Superbooth this year. I must admit how pleasantly surprised I was by not only the number of women at the conference but the age range of visitors, along with a heaping dose of friendliness. At Synthplex in Los Angeles, it was basically an arrogant hipster sausage fest where everyone seemed a bit too cool to be inclusive, though I’m sure they pay lip service to such ideas as it’s part of the current credo.

Superbooth 2019 in Berlin, Germany

Twas my lucky day, and just maybe it was that bird shitting on me two days ago that made Superbooth so extra special. I just happened to walk up when Colin Benders and friends were talking with Dieter Doepfer and checking out some new modules. What happened next blew me away, and Dieter, too, for that matter. Colin and company started a 30-minute jam on the Doepfer rig that rocked those few who were intrigued enough to stop. Not only was the gig spontaneous and electrified, but I had the pleasure of talking with Ali’s wife (the guy on the right who is the founding member of The Architect crew out of Maryland who was part of the ensemble that patched the beats directly to my heart.

Superbooth 2019 in Berlin, Germany

World-renowned and fading fast after 50 interviews here at Superbooth is the inimitable DivKid Ben. Anyone who has explored Eurorack modules to try and decipher their mystique has come to rely on his demos and live streams, where he interviews some of the greatest minds in the synthesizer world, such as Chris Meyer, Daniel Steele, and Andrew Huang.

Superbooth 2019 in Berlin, Germany

Legends and upcoming legend are seen here, pictured together for the first time ever. Of course, everyone knows Richard Devine on the left as the master of the universe with what could easily be the largest Eurorack synthesizer of all time. Well, I have to admit that was just a blatant lie because, as everyone knows, Martin Gore of Depeche Mode fame squashes spacetime when it comes to horizontal pitch.

In the center is Ken MacBeth, whose work is making synthesizers. If you know who Bob Moog or Don Buchla is, you must surely know Ken, but if you don’t, well, you can just go over there and Shut Up! By the way, do you also get the impression that’s a sly smile on his face? You should hear the voice that goes with it.

To the far right, over there on the edge of this photo, is Tenkai Kariya, who is the founder of Zetaohm and creator of the first alien-influenced sequencer. His buttons are directly inspired by machine elves whose contact with entities of other dimensions has worked to create a unique device that just might transport you into another world.

Superbooth 2019 in Berlin, Germany

Andreas Schneider is the founder of Schneidersladen and Superbooth. Superbooth had humble beginnings back when it was simply a “super” booth of vendors that would show up with Andreas at Music Messe in Frankfurt. As the market grew, an opportunity a few years ago allowed him to set up a conference outside of the giantness of Music Messe with a facility in Berlin. Now in its fourth year, Superbooth is still growing, and during the main event, it is hard to find Mr. Schneider, who seems like an incredibly busy fellow these days. I suppose working deals for the upcoming year with all of his existing suppliers while considering the bevy of new creators would keep anyone busy. I have to offer a giant heap of thanks to this guy for bringing such a wonderful community together for these three days of merriment.

Superbooth 2019 in Berlin, Germany

Der Plan is to the music of Neue Deutsche Welle (New German Wave) what the Sex Pistols are to punk rock. These innovators of the sound of post-punk, new-wave music with electronic influences got their start back in the late 1970s. I had the opportunity to see them at least once, that I’m certain of, at Cooky’s nightclub in Frankfurt, but I have a vague memory they played at the Wartburg in Wiesbaden at some point and that I was there for that too. I should have asked about that gig when I was talking with Frank Fenstermacher of the band. I can’t believe I’ve seen this band at least twice and that they performed Gummitwist tonight. Life is funky.

Berlin, Germany

Toys for your ass at Dildoking can only be advertised streetside in Germany. I told Caroline about it, so she looked them up and told me all about their Fisting Anal Relax Spray in 30ml bottles for only 12,95 €, should you be so inclined to need such a product. I’m sending some out this Christmas to a few people I know.

Superbooth Day 2

Berlin, Germany

Will you have lived, or will you have only been? The path we are walking in this life is littered with beauty, where tears are able to manifest when you see and sense just how essential it all is. Have you been in love with your own life? Is your perception tuned to the real or that which you hope is real? Who is here to define such things or teach us how to belong to life instead of life belonging to us?

Church was the artifice of nature when that which was in the wild frightened our souls. Our best music takes us for a walk outdoors under the shimmering leaves of spring past the pooling water that mirrors the forest above. We are enchanted with the glistening surface of the river and the delicate skills of the bird seeking out its existence on its bank. We are exalted on the throne of breathing, and yet there is little recognition of how sacrosanct this innate opportunity is to be present.

When all that is embodied in the nature of beauty is found in the face and eyes of the one you love, do you not shed a heavy tear when denied this chance to gaze within yourself and upon that face when you feel the most vulnerable?

HC-TT from Landscape.fm at Superbooth 2019 in Berlin, Germany

As I walked along the forest path on my way to Superbooth, I couldn’t help but recognize the profound opportunity that has been afforded me to not only find some beguiling personalities, esoteric and sublime pieces of engineering, but also an hour of walking alone in my thoughts. I have had little regard for schedules as what I will take from the conference awaits me. The serendipity of the day is a dish best sampled out of randomness.

My first visit of the day upon my arrival is with Eric who is the founder of Landscape.fm. Arriving back in Phoenix, Arizona, after this sojourn to all things indulgent, I hope to find one of these devices pictured above. This little green and gold box with blue and silver knobs is the HC-TT or Human Controlled Tape Transport. What is it precisely? A long-awaited accessory to my Eurorack setup that will allow me to manually play cassettes into my synthesizer. Eric’s first run of these sold out fairly quickly over a year and a half ago; I’ve patiently been waiting for one to be sent to me. We will be upon that day soon.

Rabid Elephant at Superbooth 2019 in Berlin, Germany

The celebration of friendship between Philip Mease and Yoni Newman had the guys dancing in the aisles of Superbooth while the band played bleeps and bloops with a dash of feedback thrown in that only enhanced the festivities. I can point out right now that of all the laughter I will have shared during my stay in Berlin and specifically here at this conference in the woods, these two knowledgeable and creative guys notched my experience up more than a couple of degrees. Should I ever make it to another Superbooth, they will be some of the first people I run to say hello to again.

You may have noticed from the banner behind them that they are responsible for the evolving universe of Rabid Elephant. I was one of the lucky few to have obtained unobtainium in their Natural Gate last year with their second run of modules. The price of used units skyrocketed in the past months for those averse to waiting for the next run which appears to be on the horizon. Portal Kick is their next module to come to market, and from what I’ve heard, it will set a new paradigm on how we shape drum sounds. The sample and hold function is wicked. I should be careful about how much I contribute to the hype, as I’d like to be certain I get in on the first batch.

Superbooth 2019 in Berlin, Germany

Carlo and Lana were at the booth of Brandon Fessler, who is the founder of Mordax. Brandon is the maker of the DATA which I wrote briefly about back during my visit to Synthplex in Los Angeles at the end of March. It’s great to find familiarity with some of the people who attend these events.

Meatlog with Meat Pretzel at Superbooth 2019 in Berlin, Germany

This is the Meatlog with a meat pretzel. Scott Jaeger of Industrial Music Electronics for the past year had enthusiastically encouraged me to attend Superbooth this year, and while I didn’t need much convincing, it’s been great seeing him in his element, demonstrating the modules I had some small part in helping him bring to market. I did notice that many of his customers tend to be tall; I wonder how he builds that attraction into his modules. A rumor I heard while milling around his booth was that there appears to be a sweet spot on the Piston Honda when tuned to certain low frequencies and a particular octave while in unison mode that is said to produce DMT-like visions in the listener’s mind.

Superbooth 2019 in Berlin, Germany

Future Sound Systems was on hand, but of course, they were because why wouldn’t everyone who makes Eurorack modules who lives in Europe not descend on Berlin to share their wares? On the right is Finlay Shakespeare, and after I find out again who is on the left I’ll share that information too. These guys have made modules with Chris Carter of Throbbing Gristle and Chris & Cosey fame, and their new modules are being built in cooperation with Daniel Miller of MUTE Records.

Superbooth 2019 in Berlin, Germany

Love the smile of the guy photobombing my shot, but it’s the guy’s face in the center that I felt best represents the expression of so many people when looking at a Eurorack setup and trying to figure out what the heck is going on. BTW the guy in the yellow t-shirt is Matthew Allum, the founder of ALM / Busy Circuits.

Daniel Miller of Mute Records at Superbooth 2019 in Berlin, Germany

This is Daniel Miller in another incarnation of who he is. Today, he’s a live performer on a Eurorack synthesizer, forcing many in the crowd in front of the stage to cower with their ears covered as they try to escape the heavy pressure of some deep low-frequencies he’s sending out. Daniel likely holds a special place in the formative history of many a creative person around the earth as the founder of MUTE Records; he’s the guy who brought us Depeche Mode, though for me, it was his contribution to the Throbbing Gristle catalog and later his promotion of Nitzer Ebb that endeared me to his label. Then there was The Normal, who gave us Warm Leatherette, which was an anthem of alternative music back when I was 15 years old. I heard that Daniel DJ’ed on a water taxi returning to Mitte later that night, but I missed it. I wonder what other hats he enjoys wearing?

Ken MacBeth of Fuckety Buckety at Superbooth 2019 in Berlin, Germany

FucKETy BuCkEty frontman Ken MacBeth took the stage by storm, insistent that he would take no prisoners and remain as uncompromising about his onstage performance as his direct, often confrontational interpersonal communication. I believe anyone who ever met Ken knows that particular hand gesture that comes at them with a bark of “SHUT UP!” Bald Beardy Man in the background on the right was responsible for the soundtrack to this evening’s festivities, though the man behind ShitKatapult, Marco Haas, aka T.Raumschmiere, was over in his corner of the stage occasionally adding some electronic stabs of one sort or other. The secret MacBeth instrument was plugged in, and what its role was will forever remain a mystery as no one is said to have seen it, and you couldn’t be certain it was heard.

Ken MacBeth of Fuckety Buckety at Superbooth 2019 in Berlin, Germany

Mr. Shitkatapult dominated the lyrical content during the first bit of the performance. I can’t help but think this only antagonized Ken to work his way into a frenzy so that when he laid into Convincing People by Throbbing Gristle, he was nearly but not quite thoroughly pissed. I was never sure when SK (short for Shitkatapult) was going to finally leave the stage; he threatened it often but always came back for more. If I were a betting man, I’d have to guess he returned because before the performance got underway, a case of beer was delivered to the stage.

Ken MacBeth of Fuckety Buckety at Superbooth 2019 in Berlin, Germany

Maybe it was after the two versions of Joy Division’s Isolation, but at some point, Ken leaped into the water like a deft dolphin, emerging from the depths to not only walk on water but to come out pointing at the mother fucker who was about to be confronted in the audience. While Mr. MacBeth has obviously demonstrated his ability to channel Jesus, he wasn’t able to leave the lake with dry clothes, so I’m not all too sure about just how pious the man is, though I do know that he is quite sanctimonious.

Ken MacBeth of Fuckety Buckety at Superbooth 2019 in Berlin, Germany

For his encore of this latest rendition of the FucKETy BuCkEty brand of shenanigan antics, Ken, in his rage, violently threw himself into the depths of the lake as a kind of water-immolation. Some say he slipped, but fuck that; this was part of the art and spectacle that runs deep in the veins and guts of Bald Beardy Man, the ShitKatapult, and fucking Ken MacBeth. If you were on hand and didn’t enjoy yourself, just SHUT UP about it.

For me, the evening would take a bizarre turn of events when I ran into the apparition of David Bowie. Okay, so it was Ken MacBeth, still drying out, who put on his crooner’s voice and serenaded me while taking requests for Bowie songs. From Lodger and Scary Monsters to Blackstar, he worked his way through them like a pro. On my request for Where Are We Now, he winced, pointing out that this was a good one, and if I’m not mistaken, he might have brought a misty eye to his rendition. So there we are in the middle of the night in the forest near Berlin with the holy damp dolphin singing to me; it doesn’t get better than that.

Superbooth Day 1

It started with a walk in the woods just before my day began to travel among the wires. Down this path, you will find temptation where gods and monsters live. Those who dwell beyond the horizon are the engineers of wicked dreams who toil at building fire within the mind. This is no German fairytale taken from the pages of the Brothers Grimm; it is the electronic reality where people from around the globe embarked on a temporary emigration to the woods of Berlin to attend Superbooth 2019.

Superbooth is super chaos. The first few hours were relatively chill, the afternoon a bit unhinged, but Saturday has been promised to slide into a madhouse. There are a lot of recognizable personalities on hand, more than a few I’ve had the opportunity to speak with. Learning anything at all about Eurorack, I think, is likely impossible. This event has more to do with networking with people you may only know from afar. At some point in the middle of the day, it becomes a spectacle of noise.

Having walked my brains out yesterday I’m afraid my mind is as flat as my feet were yesterday after my walk. This creates a blogging problem because I’m now saturated with a million impressions to the point of being overwhelmed. Some of the conversations verged on the amazing, while simply listening to the creators and manufacturers of the tools of this industry could offer delightful insights.

By the end of the day when I finally got around to jotting some notes about the event, I’d already been talking, exploring, and learning over 12 hours. With that much information acquired, I have no idea where to begin or what to share. Add to that, I’m hungry, a bit cold, and have a 50-minute walk back to my Airbnb. So, while I’d love to continue to sit here on the grounds of Superbooth 2019 with this buzz of people surrounding me and writing, I think I’m going to have to give in to some other basic necessities and get moving. What a day.

Scott Jaeger and Tony Rolando at Superbooth 2019 in Berlin, Germany

Had to say hi to Scott Jaeger at Industrial Music Electronics right away, and it happened to be while the founder of Make Noise, Tony Rolando, was making the rounds, so I felt compelled to ask these two veterans if they could give me a second for a photo. Happy is good.

Dieter Doepfer at Superbooth 2019 in Berlin, Germany

I thought I saw someone I met last month at Synthplex. At first glance and in profile, I thought it might be Dave Rossum of Rossum Electro-Music, so I walked right up and said hello in an overly friendly way before recognizing that this was, in fact, Dieter Doepfer. Dieter is the person who conceived of the Eurorack format, thus revitalizing modular synthesizers back in 1996. Today, Eurorack is a fast-growing global phenomenon.

Mark Verbos at Superbooth 2019 in Berlin, Germany

This is Mark Verbos of Verbos Electronics. Had a great chat with him about electronic music, where he got his start in the music industry back in the 1990s. Tongue-in-cheek, I lamented his overly brief postcard-sized user manuals but had to admit that back when I started and was frustrated by the lack of documentation, what I really wanted/needed, were lessons in the fundamentals of synthesis, which nobody’s user manual was going to be able to offer me.

Superbooth 2019 in Berlin, Germany

I had to go find this guy early. He is Elos Eloi of Winter Modular and the creator of the Eloquencer, which is a Eurorack sequencer. I was his first customer after waiting patiently for months and the completion of the module. I’m also starting to notice a trend here about how these creators of such intrinsically magical tools are some seriously nice people.

Ross Lamond and John Wise at Superbooth 2019 in Berlin, Germany

Out of a doorway and into my arms, Ross Lamond spotted me first and offered a hug as my smile grew larger, recognizing who this was. Ross and I have conversed more than a few times over the past couple of years, and in many ways, I feel like we are distant brothers separated by a continent, but not in the spirit of perspective. Ross is bowing out of the world of Eurorack and exploring options. The guy has been a fixture in the world of Eurorack, building custom racks for some of the most famous composers and musicians around our planet.

Superbooth 2019 in Berlin, Germany

Uhhh, yeah, well, maybe Baseck is just jet-lagged? I know you might be thinking I got him mid-blink or something, nope all three photos I took of him and Peter Edwards of Bastl, founder of Casper Electronics, had this dude looking mighty stoned. I’m not saying he’s wrecked, but if looks are not deceiving, then one might believe he’s been puffing on the chronic. As for Peter, it was as great seeing him again today as it was meeting him back at Moogfest in 2016 where I bought his bitRanger self-contained synth voice. At the moment I bought it, I was certain that other than the Moog Mother 32 I’d just acquired, this would be all the synth gear I would ever own. Little did I know that within 24 hours, I would have eaten those thoughts.

Superbooth 2019 in Berlin, Germany

Met blue-haired Vladimir Pantelic of VPME. A puff of bright blue atop his head actually works as a beacon due to his towering stature of nearly 3 meters in height. Okay, I joke about his height, but the guy is seriously tall. Then, all of a sudden, it dawns on me why his first seriously popular Eurorack module, seen above on the left and called the Euclidean Circles, is the brightest module on the market: the light needs to reach heights most of us will never know. His new module, the Quad Drum Voice, has me reconsidering my drum setup, and to be honest, there wasn’t much to think about. Upon getting home, I will put up for sale about 90hp of modules, and I will be able to reduce that footprint down to 22hp with the same functionality.

Superbooth 2019 in Berlin, Germany

Yoni Newman and Philip Mease of Rabid Elephant are being interviewed by DivKid Ben for an upcoming video on DivKid’s YouTube channel. First of all, DivKid is a key figure in the lives of many, many people just starting out in the world of Eurorack due to his inimitable presentation style and all-around great skills in exploring modules that feel alien to first-time users.

Philip is the engineering mind behind the Natural Gate, which is a dual lowpass gate. The magic behind Philip’s design is that it doesn’t use vactrols, and yet it has an incredibly smooth roll-off. The lowpass gate module was first invented by synth pioneer Don Buchla back in the early 1970s; Phil’s design represents a milestone in the creation of what is better known as an LPG.

Superbooth 2019 in Berlin, Germany

Meng Qi is a module and instrument designer who has earned a reputation for the unique designs and playability of the music tools he creates. I’ve tried finding a break in the crowd around him to talk shop, but he remains just out of arm’s reach. Hopefully, before the days of Superbooth come to an end, I’ll have had the opportunity to say hello.

Superbooth 2019 in Berlin, Germany

Moritz Scharf founded the company Endorphin.es, and if someday I can afford the width and cost of his luxurious modules, I just might find his Furthrrrr Generator Dual VCO Waveshaper taking up residence in my rack. There are a lot of crews keeping these developers busy with interviews. When Superbooth got started back in 2016, I think DivKid might have been the only person covering the tiny trade show. Today, there are dozens of people from the press, and the event has mushroomed.

Superbooth 2019 in Berlin, Germany

Endorphin.es new sequencer. I don’t really want to know about it because do I really need a fifth sequencer? I know there are those who would recommend that one own ALL the sequencers. And, of course, those guys over at ADDAC would just love for me to buy a second MONSTER frame because who doesn’t need another 1,379hp of modules?

Superbooth 2019 in Berlin, Germany

This is Jessica Kert, who is one-half of the live modular act ZV_K. She was our 7:00 p.m. entertainment provider at Seaside. I met her a couple of days ago at SchneidersLaden.

Superbooth 2019 in Berlin, Germany

The crew of FucKETy BuCkEty includes Marco Haas giving the English salute, Ken MacBeth masturbating a pencil, and the gray beardy guy on Ken’s left. The Red Beard Man-Wolf dude with a beer is Bart Wolff and is not a member of FucKETy BuCkEty. And the others? That’s Wowa Cwejman looking off to the right, while I have no idea about the rest.

Berlin, Germany

So, that was my first day at Superbooth 2019 in Berlin, Germany. Pretty spectacular, really. This photo was taken of the Spree River, which I have to cross on my hour walk to and from FEZ, where the trade show is happening.

Off to Pankow

Berlin, Germany

The train in Germany is a culture all to itself. Do not make eye contact, which you can’t do anyway because nobody is looking at you. Sit next to someone, and they’ll move to the edge of the seat to ensure they have created the maximum distance between the two of you. However, if you are a testosterone-driven creeper, you move for no one as you attempt to take up extra space. This last move is the young thug-wanna-be putting on the “I’m too cool for you” pose.

Earbuds were the perfect invention for Germans, allowing them to retreat into their own silence. Add the now ubiquitous phone in their clutch, and denying eye contact has been elevated to the level of not even needing to try.

Unless there are children on board, the train is quiet besides the sound of the steel wheels and the electric whir of the motors pushing the train forward. I believe the majority of the phones, including people’s phones on the streets, are set to vibrate mode as if to reduce the risk of disturbing others. Again, the young hooligan will act to negate this unwritten law, as his mission is to annoy people. And yes, I know that this polite phone etiquette contradicts what I recently wrote while on the train to Berlin.

If you are under 30, male, and traveling by bike, you are likely wearing Air Jordans in black, have straight-legged black jeans on, and a black baseball cap while your t-shirt is light and airy to make sure the sense of being careless is properly conveyed. To finish off the ensemble and ensure the uniform is complete, earbuds are de rigueur.

Most everyone is carrying a bag of some sort to move things around during the day or to pack up stuff they’ve shopped for. Very few people are carrying drinks. At first, I thought it was an aversion to throw-away single-use containers, but there are no thermoses or plastic cups either. The occasional gruff old dude or some young one on his way to being a gruff old dude will have a bottle of beer with them, but that’s relatively rare. There is an exception to this rule on Friday and Saturday nights when it seems like everyone is drinking on the trains while en route to a party.

Berlin, Germany

I don’t wait for more than about 6 minutes for a train, often only 2 or 3 minutes. This morning’s journey takes me across Berlin using two trains, requiring a little more than an hour to travel from Schöneweide station to Südkreuz, where I’m transferring to Pankow.

I have no great reason for this as my destination, other than it’s a place to explore away from Mitte. The idea is to walk the 8km back to the city center on a slow route, allowing me to take in the suburbs. I’d originally had a reservation to visit the Bundestag today; I’ll save that for a visit with Caroline in the future.

By the time we pull into Humboldt station, only a few people remain on the train, it makes sense as most people are heading into town for work instead of going off to the burbs for some wandering around.

Berlin, Germany

The first time I explored my environs around Germany, I knew nothing of the language, food, or things to look for. Landing in Pankow, I asked the first person I could where the Hauptstrasse was, and she asked me back in German what exactly I was looking for. I told her it didn’t matter, that I wanted to walk around the main shopping area or anywhere else of interest. With the info she shared, I was soon headed in the general direction when a place offering coffee and Frühstück (breakfast) appeared.

Berlin, Germany

Sitting in this cafe while enjoying my breakfast, I reconsidered my options yet again and felt that the 8km walk wasn’t challenging enough, so I decided to detour to Charlottenburg. By the way, the two eggs, salami, and pickle served on an open-face slice of course rye with coffee and a bottle of sparkling water was only €5,50 or $6.

A note about the cafe I’m in: there’s a diversity of products here, from baked sweets to more than a dozen types of bread and rolls. There are sandwiches, salads, some hot dishes, yogurt mixes, coffee drinks, and various cold bottled drinks. It’s simply your average everyday quick-stop cafe that dots the German landscape. There is no drive-thru; there never is.

Berlin, Germany

Thirty-five years ago, I was enchanted with posters and flyers being plastered everywhere here in Germany as a means to share cultural events that were coming up on the calendar. Then, after getting used to them, I took them for granted. These last couple of visits have struck me how vibrant the live entertainment scene is for Europeans. You may not be able to make out what these posters are advertising, so I’ll share Bach Fest, a didgeridoo, accordion, and jaw harp jam session, an Art & Design Market, and a piano concert with Martin Herzberg. On other postings, I’ve seen announcements for Vivaldi, more Bach, some reggae, DJs, and as you can see on the top post, Lollapalooza Berlin is happening in September.

Berlin, Germany

Parking is the nemesis of almost everyone who lives in Germany’s big cities. It’s a major contributing factor to why so many take public transportation or use bicycles. On spring days, things look idyllic, but on wet, snowy days, German cities can be grim, depressing places where life can feel like a slog.

Berlin, Germany

The Fahrradklingel a.k.a. the bicycle bell. When the sound of one goes off right behind you, it can make you leap gazelle-like, bounding out of the way of the angry cyclist. Normally, though, it’s just a beautifully pleasant sound letting you know that you are sharing pathways with a culture that cherishes their ability to navigate cities on a bike. When I walk around European cities, I’m hard-pressed not to press the lever of bells on parked bikes so I can hear the Klingel while delighting in it.

Berlin, Germany

The kind of shop that sells cigarettes, papers, drinks, lighters, knives, lottery tickets, tobacco, newspapers, magazines, a model car, or some trinkets along with some alcohol. They seem to have pretty much about 90% of what a neighborhood needs aside from hot pizza and fresh strawberries.

Berlin, Germany

A gaggle of brightly colored children going on a field trip, probably to check out adult clothes stores to get them ready for their black and gray wardrobe when they grow up. Why do Germans insist on wearing depressingly dark clothes all the time when as kids, they are allowed to demonstrate some individuality? Not to say that some tight black latex pants don’t normally look great on anyone who wears them; male or female.

Note – I just remembered Edith Massey as Aunt Ida in the John Waters film Female Trouble, and I think I have to make an exception as to who looks great in latex.

Berlin, Germany

Street trains are not as ubiquitous in Berlin as they are in Frankfurt; maybe my wife can help explain this.

Berlin, Germany

More graffiti because a look at Berlin without it would be a lie.

Berlin, Germany

This picture? Well, it’s only here as a nod to Scott Jaeger of Industrial Music Electronics. It’s the Berlin offices of Bayer.

Berlin, Germany

It’s noon; time for a break. There’s a bench here next to the Nordhafen waterway, which right now looks like the perfect opportunity to pause. My walk has covered nearly five miles that have taken me out of a mainly white German neighborhood through an ethnically mixed community and into an industrial zone. Ever-present throughout these changes have been the songbirds who sound especially joyous while celebrating this warm, breezy day.

It’s nice to just sit here in the sun with my sweater off. The water glistens as the wind glides over its surface creating disturbances and undulations that grasp the sunrays to shoot them over to me as sparkles. Occasionally, ducks peel off and swoop around the lake. Other water-loving birds hover overhead, likely looking to snatch an unsuspecting morsel out of the water before moving on. The guy who had been fishing has since left, as has the person who sat here at the opposite end of the bench and smoked a cigarette. An emergency vehicle darts by with its siren blaring, cutting through my hypnotized state with its characteristic “Tatue Tata” sound. Think I’ll get moving again now that my feet have cooled off.

Berlin, Germany

For nearly 800 years, Berlin has been in a cycle of growth, building, destruction, and new construction. Following the fall of the wall and reunification, Germany has been on a tangent to absorb the former East and integrate its population into a modern, thriving economy. Cranes have never left the skyline of Berlin since the rebuilding of the city following VE Day back on May 8th, 1945. Victory over Europe notes the day Germany unconditionally surrendered 74 years ago today. Like Frankfurt, Dresden, Hamburg, and Kassel, the city of Berlin was heavily damaged by prolonged bombing campaigns by the Allies. Evidence of those bombing raids is still evident when old munitions are found buried underground and might still be explosive.

To the left of the current train tracks is a massive construction site with new rail lines being brought into the city. The project extends for hundreds of meters where it appears there will be further building once the overhead train lines are finished being built. From renovating apartment buildings to digging up streets for laying new infrastructure, Berlin is constantly busy trying to meet the needs of a modernizing metropolis.

Berlin, Germany

I will become one with döner while in Berlin. They are everywhere until you are hungry, and then it seems they are hard to find. Harder to find is McDonald’s, which doesn’t bother me in the least. Speaking of burgers, there is a trend here in Berlin right now – apparently, the thing to do is to open an American-style gourmet burger joint. I wonder when the burrito will gain a foothold. Hmmm, the döner-burrito?

Berlin, Germany

Had to think about Kenny Lorenz over at HEK Yeah BBQ in Phoenix upon seeing this guy who even reminded me a bit of Kenny. A portable smoker the guy is dragging around to markets where he’s selling smoked fish has me thinking of a new line in marketing smoked meats in the Phoenix, Arizona, area. Hint hint.

Berlin, Germany

When people think of Berlin, I’d bet a dollar they don’t think about the many canals that run through the city. I’m not sure the river Spree feeds them all, but as I walk across town I’m impressed by just how much water courses through Germany’s capital. Strange that I’ve not seen a single kayaker or private craft on the waterways. In the city center, there are plenty of sightseeing boats offering simple tours and evening wine and food tours, though I can’t say I’m really interested in that spectacle of bland consumerism.

Berlin, Germany

This has been a seriously long walk to get to the palace in Charlottenburg from Pankow

Berlin, Germany

Out of the bustle of the city and away from its traffic, I started to walk along one of the canals on my way to Tiergarten. At this point, I’ve walked over 10 miles or 16km, and my feet are feeling it, but I still have another 4 miles (7km) to go before I reach the train station I have in my mind for the goal of my long walk across Berlin today.

Berlin, Germany

Maybe because it’s Tuesday, but the park is not crowded. I expected throngs of people here, but instead, I found an oasis of tranquility amidst the bustle of Berlin.

Berlin, Germany

Would you believe that I did not encounter a single mosquito?

Berlin, Germany

Just as graffiti, posters, and flyers are plastered on larger flat surfaces across Berlin, stickers are slapped on everything else. Knowing my wife, the pink sticker will elicit a giggle from her.

Stumbling Stones in Berlin, Germany

Stolpersteine are stumbling stones that effectively note on sidewalks where Jewish residents were pulled from their homes and either executed on the spot or were taken away to death camps. Until today I thought this project was only going on in Frankfurt, turns out that there are over 70,000 of these installed across parts of Europe, making it the largest decentralized memorials on Earth. It seems like this is a good point to stop my trek through the capital today and give my feet a break.

Wandering The Capital City

Berlin, Germany

Staying up to date with my writing is going to be a minor chore, as I feel that I need to finish with the previous day before embarking on a new one. Last year’s trip to Europe tracked my step count; this one is tracking my word count. Three days into this exercise and I’m somewhere near 4,400 words put on to the page. You may notice I said three days while only two blog entries exist so far. While I left on the 4th, that travel day blurred into the 5th because after leaving Arizona in the evening, I landed in Germany the next day. I felt that since I left Phoenix and did not have a night of sleep and arrived in Frankfurt for the evening, the flight ended up being a teleportation problem with timing, and I simply needed to finish the 4th on the streets of Frankfurt. Enough of those details. Above is my Airbnb.

Berlin, Germany

The sky was overcast when I woke at 6:30 with a startle that it already felt late. Well, that early in the morning was certainly not late, as I’d finally gone to sleep last night at 23:30 and dreamed of sleeping until at least 8:00 to settle my jet lag. After the obligatory things one does when preparing for the day, I was finally out in the breezy cool of a clearing sky and heading to the Schöneweide station.

I needed to buy a train ticket for the next six days to avoid the hassle of having change or cash every day to do so. That should have been easy enough, but the English version of the menus offered choices that were ambiguous. Settled with my choice, I find that I cannot buy this with my credit card as I don’t have a PIN for this particular card. Feeling the pressure to finish my transaction so others don’t have to wait for the amateur to figure things out, I threw a 50 Euro bill into the machine, received my 8 Euros in change, and had a ticket. A message flashes momentarily on the screen to inform me I need to validate my ticket before starting to use it. Where does one do that? With my ignorance reeling at having to deal with the situation, I ask myself if I should or can get validated on the train with my new 6-day pass.

Arriving at Neukölln via the S45 to transfer to the U7, I see a guy sticking a ticket like mine into a red unmarked box that, with a stamping sound, spits his ticket back out at him. This must be the act of validating one’s ticket, so I do the same, and with that, my ticket now has a time and date stamp. Makes sense now that maybe the buyer purchased the ticket the night before when leaving the station and doesn’t want to lose 10 hours of usage.

Berlin, Germany

Read your instructions beforehand, or else the place you think you are going might turn out not to exist on the high-level overview maps found in train stations. The first person I asked could not tell me which side of the track went to Mittenwald. Upon checking my itinerary I see that my location is on Mittenwalderstrasse near the Gneisenaustrasse U-Bahn stop. That the guy I asked about the “Neesen au Strasse” stop was able to decipher this was amazing. On the train, I learned my stop was called “GaNeezen au Strasse.”

Berlin, Germany

So here I am, sitting in the bakery at the intersection of those aforementioned streets, waiting for Die WollLust yarn store to open at 11:00. It’s nice to sit down to write a short while and indulge with an Erdbeer-Vanille Plunder (strawberry vanilla croissant), a double espresso, and water before going shopping for the wife. Whatever I end up getting her, I’ll also be looking for some sock yarn for myself.

John Wise at WollLust in Berlin, Germany

Sock yarn heaven for the spoiled man whose feet only know the pleasure of being wrapped in hand-knitted love. Caroline being absent from this leg of the trip required me to stand in for her yarn store pose and ask the co-proprietor to take my camera and deal with the fat old guy looking silly; somehow Caroline looks far cuter in this pose than I do. Also, I rather enjoy (I mean tolerate) watching her shop for all the unnecessary new yarn supplies she inevitably adds to the hoard when we travel, but with her still in America, I had to shop for her. So what’s a good husband to do?

Yarn from WollLust in Berlin, Germany

You buy all the yarn. And that yellow she asked me not to buy (she was very specific about this; I quote her email here: “No pink/black/yellow – something more neutral, please don’t get something super bright just to “teach me to get out of my comfort zone,” but if you think it is beautiful, I trust you.”) well, I bought yellow, it’s peeking out from underneath the red. Sadly, they were fresh out of pink. Hah, no, they weren’t, but my cruelty has boundaries.

With a full day ahead of me plus the fact I have some issues, some aversion issues, to carrying bags in public, the husband standing in for his relatively famous wife Birgit Freyer, who owns this shop called Die WollLust (I’ll translate that as Yarn Fetish) threw a fellow guy a favor and kept this nearly 2kg of yarn and stuff and is sending it to us just before we go home.

Berlin, Germany

This was the last view of the kid looking at the fountain before I punted it into the center cup of water down at the end. It was worth 40 points, which translated into 3 euros off my lunch. That probably didn’t happen, but don’t go thinking I wasn’t imagining it. Okay, so I wasn’t really imagining it, but I needed to write up something for this photo that I found appealing, so some nonsense felt in order.

Berlin, Germany

In my goal to separate myself from the main tourist area, I found an outdoor table in front of the Marheineke Markthalle, where I sat down for a bite to eat. With some ravenous birds pooping on all the chairs, it wasn’t easy to find a poop-free one, but perseverance paid off. Now, under the shady trees, I’m watching parents, hippies, oldies, fascists, and students walk by. It’s quiet here compared to the bustle of yesterday. Interestingly, there are more bicycles riding by than there are cars here; next up are people pushing strollers, though people on foot definitely dominate.

Many of the people are with friends. Most are dressed smartly even though there’s a dearth of vibrant colors. I can count dozens of people going by, and morbid obesity has missed this neighborhood. Of the 100 or more students walking by, not a single fat kid was among them. Some boisterous teen boys are showing off their adolescence with raucous boy behavior, but they are not the rule. The amount of English being spoken is interesting, more than I thought I’d hear. One of the tables near me was talking about VR and all things 3D, while the next table was discussing the pros and cons of social media. As for countries of origin strolling these streets, it looks like we could be in Los Angeles.

Under these bright green trees, the day could not be more spectacular. The occasional light breeze rustles the leaves that silently flutter and paint the ground with undulating shadows. If the sun dips behind some clouds, the effect on the temperature is nearly instantaneous. Still, here we are on a Tuesday afternoon, and it’s well after lunch, but people are hanging out, taking extended pauses while they linger over a coffee or conversation.

Berlin, Germany

The people hanging out here are seriously hanging out, some for nearly 300 years. Not one is drinking coffee. What brought me to a cemetery in Berlin, you might ask? A right turn that suggested this old place could be a tad more interesting than the busy street. I didn’t recognize any famous people, but maybe that’s because their names are all in German.

Berlin, Germany

There’s an extraordinary amount of graffiti strewn about the German capital; though much looks similar to the work of others, there are some serious works of art. Unfortunately, I’ve either been on the train and couldn’t capture them, or something is obscuring them from getting the shot that would show them in their best light. This is typical of the more common stuff seen all over town.

Berlin, Germany

The Landwehrkanal runs through Böckler Park near Kreuzberg. I suppose it’s easy enough to see what the attraction is to walking the dirt path on a nice sunny day with swans in the water preening themselves. So, I’ll just leave any other descriptions to your own imagination.

The holy land a.k.a. Schneiders Laden. This icon of the Eurorack synthesizer community is directly across from Kottbusser Tor and nearly impossible to find. Be careful here as the area is trying to find you; well, the cast of shady characters might be. While not overrun by skinheads, this corner of Berlin certainly has its fair share of sketchy-looking people who might qualify as thugs. Once you get past that and find the hidden door, you are in for some wallet/bank account emptying Goal Acquisition Syndrome (G.A.S.) gone rampant. Try to get out without your dream modules. Somehow, I did just that, but that might be true because I have just about everything I could want. The module or two I’d really love have not been released yet, so I felt safe to go into the den of temptation.

Schneiders Laden is the sponsor of Superbooth, which starts this Thursday. One of the salespeople at the shop was telling me of her performance this Thursday at Seaside starting at 19:00. Her name is Jessica Kert, and her Bandcamp page can be found here. Another woman in the shop I spent some time talking with was from Florida and only recently got the bug; she got it bad from all indicators. While talking with her, Brandon Fessler of Mordax showed up weighed down heavily by severe jetlag. Moments after that, Scott Jaeger of Industrial Music Electronics texted me that he just landed and was wrecked. Hopefully, everyone recovers in time to re-exhaust themselves with some very long days and nights at the conference.

Berlin, Germany

Time to find some dinner; little did I know that exercise would take nearly two hours. I get hungry, and I get picky. The walk I took was nice, but the food looked dull, so I kept on walking.

Berlin, Germany

I didn’t walk long as I had to give in to the call of nature in the worst way. Half a dozen times, I considered just going homeless guy style and discretely pissing against a tree or in a corner so no one could see my junk, but then this magic toilet house appeared. I put my 50 cents in, the doors slid open, I walked in and the doors would not shut. I tried all the buttons, I tried waiting, I looked for a sensor I could flail at, but those doors just stood wide open. So I did what I had to do: I stood there with my back to passersby and took my much-needed pee. With the pressure ratcheted down, I felt I could focus better on compromising for some food and just get whatever, but just as Caroline already knows, that’s not in my playbook. I kept walking until I found exactly what I didn’t know I wanted.

Berlin, Germany

Berlin cuisine looks like shit to me. No wonder everywhere you look, you find Vietnamese, Thai, Indian, and Middle Eastern, while döner kebab shops are everywhere. Sausages are fairly ubiquitous, too, but nothing struck me as truly inspired. So what did I do? Did I visit a Michelin 3-star joint? Nope, I opted for the Berlin famous döner. So why the photo of the canal? Well, sometimes the photos of döner look like someone took a dump in a pita pocket.

Can and Aleks working at Coffee Fellows on Alexanderplatz in Berlin, Germany

Meet Can (pronounced J’chon, kind of like John), aged 19, from Turkey, and Aleks, aged 25, from Croatia. I did tonight, and it was great chatting with these guys, mostly in German too. Coffee Fellows is one of the coffee shops open relatively late here in Berlin so I stopped here after dinner for some caffeine to keep me going and to give me a place to do some writing. It was awesome to talk to these two young men about politics and nature, how dangerous conservatism is, how amazing the world’s cultures are, and how important enjoying life is. It’s kind of funny how American these two really are, meaning they are very outgoing and enthusiastic to talk with me. They are the future of Europe as long as extremism is able to be held back.