Hopi Weaving at Tuzigoot

Tuzigoot National Monument in Clarkdale, Arizona

If you read my previous two entries, you might be inclined to think I’m moving onto a theme, but what fun would that be? This has been quite a nice weekend, really, Saturday Caroline went to Sahuaro Ranch Park, where the annual Glendale Folk Festival was taking place. Various fiber artists committed to being on hand to demonstrate the crafts of spinning, weaving, and other aspects of the art. After hanging out a bit, I took off for some writing before heading back in the afternoon for the two of us to go grab lunch. Today, we headed north out of Phoenix up to Tuzigoot National Monument in Clarkdale, Arizona.

Hopi Weaving at Tuzigoot National Monument in Clarkdale, Arizona

The reason for this particular visit was in some way similar to our previous one in 2017, when we drove up to attend a presentation by archaeologist Zack Curcija, except today we are interested in meeting Hopi weaver Davis R. Maho, who’s presenting his work. Davis is also known as The Hopi Roses. Our first question for the guy was how long he’s been practicing this particular art, and we learned that it was just five years ago at the Hopitutuqaiki, also known as The Hopi School, where he started learning to weave.

Hopi Weaving at Tuzigoot National Monument in Clarkdale, Arizona

Davis is a modest weaver admitting he’s still on the learning curve with a lot of curiosity to explore far more about the art than he’s done yet. He mentioned his interest in natural dyes before telling us that he, in fact, spins his own yarn. Intrigued, I asked if he uses a hip spindle or a spinning wheel, but his answer elicited a laugh-out-loud chuckle when he told us that he uses a drill motor. I never thought that this would be the intersection where modern and ancient techniques met.

Tuzigoot National Monument in Clarkdale, Arizona

Back outside, we enjoyed a short hour-long, two-mile walk out to the Tavasci Marsh next to the Verde River. Cattails, grasses, mesquite trees, and some large cottonwood trees punctuate the marsh, and while we were told to be aware of snakes, sadly, none were seen.

Tuzigoot National Monument in Clarkdale, Arizona

Lunch was had at a local grill in the trendy old town of Cottonwood, but the highlight was caused by how crowded the place was. You see, Caroline and I got the last table, but a friendly enough couple walked in after us and accepted our invitation to have them join our table if they didn’t feel like sitting outside. Rose and Bill are a retired couple from Phoenix who now live over in Rimrock. Sharing the table was not like sitting with two people who wanted to be alone; it was like having lunch with a couple of our relatives. Our hour spent with these two was filled with smiles.

Tuzigoot National Monument in Clarkdale, Arizona

Afterward, we sat down somewhere else for a coffee and a bit of writing while Caroline got some knitting in before we headed south for our 90-minute drive home. This was our Sunday.

Weaving Workshop

Caroline Wise Weaving at a Workshop in Mesa, Arizona

If there is any question that the Brillenschlange smiling at me in this photo is an uber-nerd, let this serve as proof that my wife has geek cred that flies off most every chart. You might remember that back on September 9, 2019, Caroline took possession of her Baby Wolf loom. Since then she’s been off and on again busy making stuff on it but this is the first time she’s been able to lunk it out of our place and drag it across town to Mesa, Arizona, so she could join a 3-day workshop.

All last week Caroline toiled after work to wind the warp which is the process of winding off the requisite number of weaving threads in the length that the project calls for. Next, you sley the reed. This means that she pulls all of the threads of the warp through a toothed device that keeps everything separate and aligned. Time to thread the heddles where she pulls each strand of yarn through a wire with an eyelet attached to a shaft controlled by treadles that are used to open a shed. Sheds are the opening of patterns of warp combinations where the weft (the thread that goes across the warp) is beat against the accumulating other wefts thus making cloth. Before that can begin though she has to beam the warp meaning she has to roll the warp on a beam in the rear of the loom that will feed to the front of the loom where she’s tied those warp thread ends to the cloth beam, allowing weaving to commence.

Woven Samples at a Weaving Workshop in Mesa, Arizona

At the workshop, the Mesa guild known as Telarana Fiber Arts Guild has invited Denise Kovnat from Rochester, New York, to share a technique called “Deflected Double Weave” with the group. Workshop teachers are often from out of state and are likely renowned in the Weaving World which helps guarantee the success of the workshop as they need at least 10 attendees to make the event financially viable. (As a non-profit organization the guild just needs to break even when it is all said and done.)

Attendees such as Caroline are given a list of requirements they need to prepare prior to the workshop and then upon arrival, there may be handouts or options to purchase additional materials that could further enhance their knowledge or SABLE. This popular acronym stands for Stash Acquisition Beyond Life Expectancy and most every member of the guild is guilty of this hoarding disorder.

Caroline Fabric on her loom at a Weaving Workshop in Mesa, Arizona

Through it all, these highly skilled and very sociable women gain between 18 and 24 hours of hands-on experience, collaboration, and gossip over the typical 3-day workshop.

The image above shows an example of Caroline’s effort where the colors and pattern decisions were part of her pre-work before arriving on Saturday. What you are looking at is the front of her loom in closeup. In the background is the reed and behind that, out of sight, are the heddles, shafts, and warping beam. The warp are the threads going from the pattern upfront to the reed in the background. Sitting on the cloth is the shuttle that is used to throw a thread through the sheds to be opened to lay down the emerging pattern.

Now consider for a moment that not all too long ago every strand of thread had to be handspun and dyed before they’d find their way to a loom and the more fine threads packed in per inch would typically mean a finer fabric. Should you ever wonder why certain cultures never developed cloth or why people right up to the industrial age had only one set of clothes, it was due to the intensive amount of labor involved with simply making sheets of cloth before they’d ever be cut up to be sewn into shirts and pants.

Sunflower Trail 25A

This is Bob and Bob drives an off-road vehicle he built himself. It’s more like a Frankenstein creation with parts taken from different other vehicles but as the guy who owns and operates the Eurosport car repair shop next to HEK Yeah BBQ on Cave Creek, I guess he knows a thing or two about cars.

Speaking of HEK Yeah brings me to who invited me out here today, Kenny. He picked me up this morning at 7:30 to join him in his SUV and some guys who’d be caravaning with us with their three vehicles up to the Sunflower off-road vehicle trails encompassing roads 25 and 25A. There are some other roads that trail off of those two but they are the main ones that matter.

With tire pressures lowered for better surface contact and more pliability when driving over rocks (I didn’t know this beforehand) we are ready to head over some rough Arizona terrain. Oh wait, nobody told me anything about narrow trails with crazy falloff down sheer cliff sides. Only a few miles in and I’m throwing in the towel to start hiking back as I’m certain I will not be able to stomach being on the passenger side of the vehicle when we have to come back this way.

I assured the rest of the guys I’d be fine with my water and pistachios and that I’d meet them later at the fork of the 25 and 25A. With that, I started my hike out. It’s quiet out here, seriously quiet and seriously beautiful.

I looked for snakes, javelinas, bobcats, tarantulas, and coyotes but the only wildlife I saw, though I heard more than I saw, were the birds. Walking up the steep hill there was the everpresent sound of the stream that bubbled below as it cut its path through the canyon. As for the moon, it was as quiet as ever.

My entire way back was much more appreciated by walking speed as driving by even at only 10mph doesn’t leave me the time to find sights such as these.

And then there are the little details such as this very small bush clinging to the rock side.

When Kenny caught up with me (it turned out he couldn’t progress further up the trail from the point I started my hike out) we scouted some campsites out and around the area.

It’s nice out here and there are alternative roads to the 25A that stopped us from progressing on its road but we are close enough to the Beeline Highway that its noise carries through the hills. Also, during the day at least, there is a lot of gunfire along with a stupid amount of casings that people don’t bother to collect. One other tragic side of being out on these roads that are maintained for the kind of outdoor enthusiasts who benefit from the infrastructure supplied for them, they shoot every sign they can, shoot most of the trees, shot up a water tank that was right next to this fence, leave beer cans, water bottles, even McDonalds trash out here. I wonder if these are the same angry people who complain about how their tax dollars are spent because I don’t think the roads and signs put themselves out there.

Maybe next time Kenny is looking for a travel partner we can better prepare and find a hiking trail from a remote road as he certainly appreciates the taking in the small things along with the sights and sounds out here, maybe even as much as his dog Dobby. Had a great time out here getting a little further off the trail than is typical for my average Sunday.