Beautiful Summer Day in Utah

I need a generic photo for blog posts describing the first nights we are out on the road; that photo would be of a golden brown rotisserie chicken dripping fat as the fire sweats that old bird. This would best illustrate how we sleep on these restless roadside stops. One never knows the quality of the bed, the temperature of the room, or the wail of the window air-conditioning unit. Does this imply that we slept poorly? Obviously, because we struggled to find something even close to the thing known as sleep. So it goes, we know this dance in the been there, done that sense.

Our no-frills breakfast (thanks to our in-room microwave and the ice chest of stuff we are dragging with us) saved me from the potato/toast orgy my petulant inner 4-year-old expects when we are out in the land of the greasy spoon. The menu in cabin 6 featured warmed-up pre-cooked burgers and a shared avocado, which helped keep things in the keto realm for me, and right now, that will have to do.

A few miles away, the state line separating Arizona and Utah was crossed with no fanfare; we just drove in and minutes later stopped in Kanab for some weak coffee, which in a pinch is better than no coffee. Experience tells me that a photo of our coffee stop makes for boring imagery so I skipped that, and anyway, the scenery surrounding Kanab is far more interesting. No, this isn’t Bryce National Park, but it is indicative of what is seen out that way. As we were just visiting Bryce not too long ago, we’ll just keep going north.

Hey, is that something beautiful over there? Well then, we’ll just have to stop to look at the forest through the trees.

This brook with bleached volcanic stones was the main attraction, and while I should have made an effort to photograph the nearby craggy lava field, we have places to be and know from past experience that we can be our own worst enemies when it comes to arriving somewhere at a reasonable hour.

Ninety minutes north of Fredonia, Arizona,  we arrived at our first destination, Cedar Breaks National Monument. Not sure if these people are done with their 4th of July holiday already or if they were just passing through, but they are pointed at the exit. If you’ve read one of our previous posts where we visit a national park or monument you probably have guessed by now that we’ll be making our first stop at the visitors center for Caroline to pick up her Junior Ranger booklet.

With booklet in hand, along with a new t-shirt celebrating the season of wildflowers, we are on our way up the Spectra Point Trail. It’s obviously a beautiful day out here, and nobody else is parked at the trailhead yet, so things promise to be quiet. Our elevation is 10,500 feet above sea level (3,200 meters), and I’m feeling a bit lightheaded but nothing too uncomfortable.

What surprises await us just over the crest?

It doesn’t take long before I grow uncomfortable with the nearness to the edge of a massive dropoff. We only made it a little more than a quarter-mile up the trail before a particular corner whispered at me that I wouldn’t enjoy coming back this way as, at that point, I’d be having that open abyss painted spectacularly large throughout my peripheral vision. Time to turn around.

But it’s not time to leave; we are here to stop and smell the flowers, all of them.

Just up the road is our next trail, and it starts at the Chessmen Ridge Overlook; we’ll check that out first.

Blam, Chessman Ridge.

Straight ahead is the Pond Loop Trail. Oh, lucky day.

It was ten years ago that I first identified the common donkel (donkey-camel hybrid genetically engineered to walk on two legs) while on the island of Oahu; see proof right here. Since then, this specimen has proven to be incredibly valuable over and over again, though as she ages, her humps have been shrinking (front and back). The utility of my donkel cannot be underestimated as she continues the life support functions required to support me. All she requires on my part is a near-constant stream of hugs and for that, I’m offered water, snacks, sunscreen, and extended vision with the use of binoculars she seems to always have at the ready.

I thought pink and blue Spanish bluebells would have been on separate plants, but here’s nature proving me wrong, or is this just a trick of comingling plants and my inability to differentiate their cohabitation?

It’s spaces such as this that will have to suffice as being the parade route we’ll be missing this year, while the flowers will have to fill the gap of not seeing a fireworks show along the way.

Heading up into Utah this long 4th of July weekend during early summer, I don’t know what we were expecting beyond the planned hiking trails, but running into these columbines are proving to be a nice surprise. I wonder if Alltrails has a search function that allows us to find the most spectacular displays of wildflowers as an attribute of trails across America?

If you are thinking I’m getting a bit redundant with similar shots, well, that’s just the way it is, as these reminders are here to bring us back to July 1st, 2022, when Caroline and I found ourselves walking along a canyon edge to a pond during a magnificent wildflower bloom. These were the days, huh, wife?

The columbines are everywhere, and while I probably took photos of dozens, I present just one more, as this post is about more than beautiful flowers.

It’s also about forested paths under deep blue skies and fluffy little clouds.

Just out of sight was graffiti carved into a fallen tree that said, “Monet was here.”

What doesn’t mix with beauty are the idiots who feel the need to bring gadgets that play their music out loud so everyone within a couple of hundred feet has to listen to their insipid soundtrack that erases the wind, birds, frogs, insects, and any semblance of their consideration or intelligence. Then, there was the lunkhead who brought out his drone; even though everywhere you go in the parks today, people are told that they are in a “N0 Drone Zone.” People pay as much attention to that as those told that dogs are not allowed on the trail. Aside from those annoyances (quickly pushed out of mind for my well-being), we were again alone and enjoying the serenity of the place, undisturbed by the selfish abominations that went about their merry ways.

After a couple of miles, though our Fitbits said it was closer to three miles, we were aiming for the parking lot, where opened our ice chest and made some of these terrific lettuce-wrapped bologna-and-boiled-egg sandwiches.

Ms. Happy Nerd-Face has yet again been granted the privilege of representing another national monument after geeking out on answering all the questions there are to answer in order to be anointed a Junior Ranger. I’d imagine that by now, if she were to attempt wearing them all, she’d be stooped over like Quasimodo in the Hunchback of Notre Dame.

It was time to leave the park as we still have a long drive up Utah Highway 89 which parallels Interstate 15 but without the freeway stress and far enough away to feel like we are appropriately on vacation, not in heavy traffic and franchise ugliness.

A million thanks to everyone who opts for freeways, thus affording us nature freaks these moments when the entirety of nature within our purview is ours alone. I should point out that my grumbling about the numbskulls that intrude into our solemnity in some paragraphs/photos above is my own fault as we typically know better than being out in America on major holidays due to the dragging out the worst examples of rabble our country has to offer.

Just think about this: here we are under a blue sky where a dirt road slicing through grasslands running to a distant mountain offers us the opportunity to be among approximately twenty-three octovigintillion particles coursing through reality and where idiocy is kept at a distance, there is nothing else to do but enjoy the perfection of it all in peace and happiness.

Here is the result of a lost 20 minutes where I searched for what mountain this is. I know it’s near Provo, Utah, but I can’t find it using an image search from Microsoft or Google. Streetview hasn’t come to my rescue, and now, frantic, I have to give up and return to writing. I’d wager a dollar that after Caroline gets hold of this acquiescing to failure there’ll be a note from her telling future us just where we were and what mountain peak we were looking at. [It is the “backside” of Mount Timpanogos – Caroline]

This is Bridal Veil Falls, which I have zero ambiguity about. Believe it or not, there were people crazy enough to cut over the thinnest trail on the scree slope visible on the left of this image in order to reach the foot of the falls. My knees buckled as I watched others carefully maneuver the razor’s edge.

We are starting to run low on daylight as we start passing the Deer Creek Reservoir with this image having to stand in for the end of the day. We are already in the Wasatch Mountains, which is the main destination of this adventure, and are now only about 15 minutes away from Heber City, where we’ll be spending the next couple of nights at the Swiss Alps Inn.

Celebrating America – Trip 12

Caroline Wise with her new U.S. passport in Phoenix, Arizona

We are entering the long 4th-of-July weekend here in the United States, with Caroline having just received her first U.S. Passport as an American citizen. She actually opened it last night, but I decided that it should go here at the beginning of the 12th trip of 2022, during America’s celebration of Independence Day. When her workday is finished, and I’m done with preparations, we’ll be driving up to Fredonia, Arizona, tonight. Just two months ago, we were passing through this small Arizona border town on our way to Bryce Canyon National Park. Tomorrow’s path will take us further north to Heber City, Utah, which will be our base for hiking in the mountains. While seemingly everyone else is lamenting the economy, inflation, the price of gas, the state of the union, and the myriad of other nagging issues, we are filling our tank, ice chest, and bags full of gratitude that even in the “worst” of times, this is still one of the greatest places to be. Happy birthday, United States, and thanks for welcoming my German woman to the fold.

Summer monsoons in Arizona

The same procedure as every trip? Yep, the same procedure as every trip. Wait until the last four hours before we are supposed to leave, and I get busy with loose ends. I was certain I had plenty of time; most everything was already done, or so I thought. Pack clothes and toiletries, the ice chest, the crate with dry foods, silverware, and a couple of bowls. Take out the trash, wash any dishes that were used this morning or at lunch, remember that I needed to get ice that I forgot while I was over picking up prescriptions, vacuum, turn up the A/C, power down computers, unplug all plugs that don’t have to be plugged in, sweep the patio, and get everything into the car. I’m at Caroline’s office at 3:05, five minutes late, but that’s okay because she won’t get away until 3:30.

Summer monsoons in Arizona

This is our normal and that’s that. We are on the road and driving north. I called our lodging for the night in Fredonia, the Grand Canyon Motel as it’s known, though it’s a good distance from that landmark, and told the proprietor Chuck that we’d likely not show up until between 9:00 and 9:30. Google is showing us that we’ll arrive right in the middle of that.

Sunset in Northern Arizona

It’s that old blistering-hot temperature of summer as we left the valley, but up in the mountains of Flagstaff, it slips into the mid-60s, likely due to all the rain clouds in the vicinity. We only see a few drops, see a few flashes of lightning, and in a few minutes, we are on the other side of the city. Somewhere near Wupatki National Monument, we pulled over for dinner. Actually, we needed to pull over for photos of the god rays, and well, that was a great place to break into the ice chest and fish out the bologna, boiled egg, and lettuce in which we’ll be wrapping our sandwiches. A simple, fast, on-the-go dinner so we waste no time and simultaneously save money while dining in the greatest outdoor dining room of all time.

Sunset in Northern Arizona

We had to stop a few more times for dramatic skies as a travel-themed blog post without travel photos would be like a bologna/egg sandwich without mustard. As a hint of things to come, this photo was shot near Marble Canyon between the North and South Rims of the Grand Canyon, where we’ll be staying in mid-October when I’ll be sure to bring my 70-200mm lens for photographing those condors that live nearby.

Sunset in Northern Arizona

It was 9:15 when we pulled into a Family Dollar that was open, the only store open after 9:00 in this small outpost of Fredonia; we needed fresh ice for our provisions. Our goal on this trip is not to go out for meals; you see, I came off a 5-day fast on Monday and decided to dip right into a keto diet as I’m aiming to drop 20 pounds. By 9:25, we are checked in and heading to cabin 6, which includes a small kitchenette, for a miserly price of only $70. It’s now 10:00, and I’m skipping photo prep as I feel more pressed to jot down these few notes before we turn in. Come tomorrow, we have a 70-mile drive before jumping on our first trail, but more of that then.

Not According To Plan

La Posada Hotel in Winslow, Arizona

Up at 4:30 a.m., and by 5:00, we are heading out to the car to drop off a couple of things before boarding our train that’s scheduled to leave at 5:20 this beautiful morning. Before that though, we needed to stop at the front desk here at La Posada Hotel and hand off our room key and check out. In passing, I asked about what time last night’s Amtrak finally pulled in, “It didn’t show up until after 10:30 p.m., and this morning’s train is already going to be over 2.5 hours late.” Oh no, “We’re on that train!”

Rail stop in Winslow, Arizona

We now know why Amtrak is so unpopular. If we could be certain we’d be arriving at our destination in Las Vegas, New Mexico before the restaurants closed, that would be one thing, but then, in consideration of returning to Winslow for our drive home on Sunday, if we were late three hours or more getting back here with another three hours ahead of us to drive home, we might not return to Phoenix before 1:00 a.m.

Talking to the attendant at the hotel’s front desk and to another guest out here trackside, we learned that freight has priority on this route. So, we sit here having a coffee and contemplate our options. This is lamentable as there is no refund for our train tickets, only a voucher can be had. We also don’t know if tonight’s lodging accommodation can be canceled without incurring the full cost. There’s also the idea that if tomorrow’s train is late, we might return to Winslow without any dinner options aside from a frozen burrito at a gas station. We are stuck in a sucky decision that isn’t fun, and we are more accustomed to fun than suck.

La Posada Hotel in Winslow, Arizona

The decision to cancel the train and the hotel seemed to be the best option, though if the hotel in Las Vegas won’t refund us, we could also drive up there today. I called The Plaza Hotel and the young man who answered informed me that in consideration of the train failing us and that it was still so early, they’d refund our money. We also now have an Amtrak voucher of uncertain value but hope we might throw it at a ride this summer between San Diego and San Luis Obispo along the coast of California, though we’ll confirm the frequency of late trains on that route.

About the rest of today, we’ll head over to Flagstaff shortly to visit the arboretum and maybe the museum before going home. While there’s some minor sense of defeat, we shouldn’t really sulk too much, as even a single overnight adventure qualifies as something a whole lot better than sitting around doing a bunch of nothing.

Amtrak pulling in at the La Posada Hotel in Winslow, Arizona

This is the train we won’t be boarding because America doesn’t give a damn about sustainable transportation and capitalizing on its exquisite landscape via rail. As a people, we no longer think about a future as we are distracted by trying to survive the moment while maintaining absolute control and avoiding all things that smack of socialism but contradictorily embracing thoughts of totalitarianism. America smells more and more like a house on fire, but we can’t see the flames through the smoke. If you wonder how I can write something so hyperbolic just because we are skipping out on our first opportunity to ride the Amtrak, you’ve not read my previous few thousand posts to better understand where this is coming from.

Flower at the La Posada Hotel in Winslow, Arizona

But there are options such as stopping to smell the flowers, admire the flowers, and photograph the flowers. Then you get back in the car and accept that the plans have changed because they were never set in stone anyway.

Arboretum in Flagstaff, Arizona

Strike this from the proverbial bucket list: we’ve finally made it out to the Flagstaff Arboretum.

Arboretum in Flagstaff, Arizona

Well, this is interesting as I’ve never seen something like this before 56 tubes holding water that absorb the heat of the day and release it overnight to help regulate a more stable temperature in this Horticulture Center.

Arboretum in Flagstaff, Arizona

Only about 50 acres of the 200 owned by this non-profit are under cultivation due to the obvious: lack of funding or donations. What could be a significant draw for visitors simply isn’t, as they don’t offer craft beer, wood-fired pizza, or big-screen TVs featuring live mixed martial arts of badass people kicking the shit out of each other.

Arboretum in Flagstaff, Arizona

Nope, they have plants, flowers, and trees. And trees don’t fight.

Caroline Wise at the Arboretum in Flagstaff, Arizona

But get this: mature ponderosa pine trees offer the scent of vanilla, or maybe they smell more like butterscotch? Since Caroline learned this on a recent trip, she’s been insisting we stick our noses into the bark to see if we can sniff out the elusive aroma.

Arboretum in Flagstaff, Arizona

And there it is: on a somewhat hot day when the sap is running, we agree that we can both catch the scent of butterscotch; wow!

Arboretum in Flagstaff, Arizona

We will now test this on every ponderosa pine tree we run across to ensure this one wasn’t artificially scented to fool us.

Arboretum in Flagstaff, Arizona

Back at the parking lot, we chowed on the lunch we’d packed for our train journey and called it quits for the weekend. All in all, it was a beautiful, quick out-and-back trip away from the desert and, strangely enough, our last travel until the last day of the month.