Desolation Road

Gila River Indian Reservation in Arizona

I’m not exactly motivated to make these travels, but the rut I have fallen into at home, while not debilitating, is not as productive as I’d prefer either. By pushing myself down the road to take photos and consider what I am thinking is an exercise to force a change of habit.

I sketched the idea of where the road would take me today before I left home instead of just pointing the car in some direction and going. I’m heading down to Maricopa to wend my way through Native American lands. A semblance of a route had to be known beforehand as signage on Indian roads is not always ideal. Once off the freeway, I was briefly on the Gila River Indian Reservation and on my way through the desert mirage known as the city of Maricopa. There are no photos of that place as it’s a generic abomination of everything that typifies the worst architectural and planning decisions here in Arizona.

Tohono O'odham Indian Reservation

The radio and music are off in order to maintain as much quiet as possible while also forcing me to listen to what’s going on in my head. Come to think of it, the silence is a kind of social distancing of me from digital and broadcast media. Before ever reaching this edge of the Tohono O’odham Indian Reservation I had to pass through the gauntlet of feedlots with 10s of thousands of cows. I can be happy it’s not summer yet.

Tohono O'odham Indian Reservation

On some stretches of the road, there’s not a lot that differentiates the landscape, not that this should diminish how visually engaging it is all same. It’s easy when I’m not pressed by other drivers racing up behind me to crawl along, barely maintaining 35mph in an area with a 65 mph limit. Many of these notes were taken while stopped in my lane as there are few places to pull over. To keep any stress at bay, when I do see someone less than a mile behind me I’m already scouting for a sliver of gravel to pull over at and wait. Chances are good that it will be another 5 or 10 minutes before another car is in my rearview mirror.

Tohono O'odham Indian Reservation

Barely paved best describes one of the roads that my GPS suggested I turn on. While I knew I wanted to stay on Route 42 to North Komelik, this detour on an unnamed road proved interesting. I probably don’t need to mention that I was the only person on this entire 5 mile stretch of road.

Tohono O'odham Indian Reservation

While I was out here I had no way of determining exactly where I was. It turns out this is the site of the Tat Momolikot Dam that at one time held back Lake Saint Clair that no longer exists. I wonder how many people will ever see this graffiti of Hulk snacking on a prickly pear?

Cholla Cactus on the Tohono O'odham Indian Reservation

Teddy bear cholla cactus is in abundance down this way and while it’s beautiful I tend to watch where my feet are stepping as the spurs of the needles are known to grab hold of everything to hitch a ride, hence their unofficial name of jumping cholla.

Memorial site on the Cholla Cactus on the Ak Chin Indian Reservation in Arizona

On Indian Route-15 there were too many shrines for those who died on this road. This particular monument is in memory of Derk L. Poola who passed away back in 1996. If I told you that there is at least one memorial per mile on average, it would not be an exaggeration. Sadly, there’s no accompanying story of what happened when the person lost their life on this desolate road. There’s no roadkill to speak of so it wasn’t like a deer jumped in their way. Not many, if any, sharp turns are out here either, leaving either drugs, alcohol, or falling asleep. Whatever the cause, this is a visceral reminder that this stretch of highway eats souls.

Dry River Bed on the Ak Chin Indian Reservation in Arizona

Near the turnoff to Santa Rosa on the Tohono O’odham Indian Reservation is where I photographed this dry river bed. Upon getting home I tried to see if it had a name, but it appears that it is only an unnamed wash. Speaking of, there have been lots of signs warning of flash floods and I could imagine that during the monsoon season this region sees a goodly amount of rain. Short of getting trapped on a small amount of high ground, I sure would like to be right here during a downpour.

Baby Doll Arm at the side of the road on the Ak Chin Indian Reservation in Arizona

Heading back to my car this friendly amputated baby-doll arm was waving at me or was it wanting to high-five me? I went for the high-five and felt empowered by the disembodied random hand jammed into the barrier that someone must have sensed was needed here on the side of the road for the wellbeing of passersby.

Tohono O'odham Indian Reservation

There’s so much cactus out here that there’s little else to think about than cactus and the hope of seeing a snake.

At the intersection of Hwy 86 and Indian Route 15 is the Gu-Achi Trading Post, a good place to stop for a homemade burrito and drink before continuing on the dusty road.

Abandoned Gas Station in Why, Arizona

I stopped at an abandoned gas station at the intersection of the 86 and the 85 in Why, Arizona, because abandoned anything is always of interest. The payphone out front is still intact and not full of graffiti but it doesn’t have a dial tone, I wonder how long it is before no one knows what a dial tone was? A sign across the street lets me know that I’m 93 miles from Rocky Point in Mexico or just 27 miles from the border. Sometimes I forget how close to our southerly neighbor we live.

Mural in Ajo, Arizona

What’s the story of Ajo? Lot’s of empty houses, storefronts, and lodging but it’s not broken into or falling to pieces. Why was this such a happening place back in the day? Like many towns outside of Phoenix, Prescott, Flagstaff, and Tucson, Ajo was founded on the possibilities offered by mining. That potential dried up when the last operations ceased in 1985.

Church in Ajo, Arizona

Ajo is only 38 miles north of Mexico and more than 100 miles either east or west from Tucson and Yuma making it perfect for Border Control agents who have taken to making this old town their home.

Barry M. Goldwater Air Force Range in Arizona

From Ajo, it’s a straightforward drive through desert scrub next to the Barry M. Goldwater Air Force Range. While I scanned the skies looking for bombers or the lasers this sign warned about, I only saw more dirt, more cactus, rocks, and even more brown dead grass.

Barry M. Goldwater Air Force Range in Arizona

And then I came upon this scene forcing me to stop and ogle it before continuing to the ever disappearing town of Gila Bend.

Train in Gila Bend, Arizona

Maybe the best thing out here in Gila Bend is the train that runs through, oh, and toilets if I’m traveling with the wife.

Relatively North

On State Route 87 near the turnoff to the Four Peaks Wilderness Area in Arizona

Today is Caroline’s first day back in the office in about 6 months. Going home to an empty place is not an option nor is hanging out at my favorite coffee shop so I’m heading out on another brief road trip. Being out here for the second time in the past few days it’s dawning on me that maybe people are not driving any more aggressive than usual, but I’ve simply grown unaccustomed to the frantic race to be somewhere. My opening photo is from the turnoff to the Four Peaks Wilderness Area on Route 87. I wasn’t heading to the Four Peaks but instead was trying to find a vantage point to shoot this image as I’ve always loved the thousands of boulders the dot this landscape as the road crawls away from the Salt River below. In the center are the four lanes of the highway, two lanes in each direction separated by a boulder island. Once up in this beautiful scenery, it becomes dangerous to try and pull over and snap a photo so this will have to serve as my enduring memory.

Beeline Hwy in Sunflower, Arizona

Route 87 also known as the Bee Line Highway used to run right through here in the Sunflower area. This scenic gem runs next to Sycamore Creek which probably played into the situation that follows. Coming home from a holiday weekend in the Payson area could take hours as this narrow stretch of road was prone to accidents and on occasion a semi would roll over, blocking both lanes of the road. Today the road is quiet and abruptly ends just a mile and a half from here. A berm and a fence with warnings of entering private property being forbidden stop the curious such as me, but I saw on Google Maps that the other end of the road is now listed as a forest service road and is poorly marked which demands that next time I’m up this way I’ll have to take a look.

Looking out towards Gisela, Arizona

I don’t know how we missed this, but somehow we did. I’m referring to a visit to Gisela, Arizona. Back in January 1994 when Caroline and I got married we were traveling north on Route 87, taking the scenic way to the Grand Canyon, as we passed the sign for the turnoff to Gisela. A roar went up with the 6 of us (when we got married we invited 4 friends from Germany to join the trip) as we all knew that a friend who worked for the techno clothing designer Hypnobasia had a girlfriend named Gisela. Everyone thought it strange that there would be a town way out here with a German name. Anyway, we never took that turn and for the intervening years, we sped right by every time.

Historic Corral from 1917 in Gisela, Arizona

Now I know why we drove by. Gisela is close to being a lot of nothing. While the U.S. presidential election was over almost 5 months ago, you’d never know if from the signage in front of the clapboard hovels and mobile homes. There may be more ways of displaying Don’t Tread On Me in Gisela than there are U.S. flags. While the community is relatively compact that hasn’t stopped people from having inordinately high fences and warnings about dogs. I can only wonder how many guns were pointed my way as I drove through silently at 10mph in my hybrid. The highlight of the place is found at a circular corral first erected in 1917 and restored in 1983 by the Gisela Homemakers Club. I almost marveled at the craftsmanship.

North of Payson, Arizona

Other than stopping for a coffee, I pretty much drove right through Payson. Nothing has changed, maybe ever. I think that after Walmart opened in this forested community, they had everything they’d ever need and that was that. Up the road a bit I pulled over to snap this photo next to the East Verde River. I’d like to share how beautiful this part of Arizona is and it’s undeniably that, but there’s something ominous going on in the area; it’s called drought. In all my years passing through here, I’ve cannot recall seeing so many dead trees.

North of Strawberry, Arizona

While we are within days of hitting the 90s (32c) down in Phoenix there’s still a smattering of snow along the road and on nearby mountain ridges. Maybe the high country will see a lot of moisture this year as I vaguely remember hearing something about the chance for a wetter monsoon season but, considering how often the weather service is correct, I’ll remain skeptical and hope fire doesn’t eat more of these trees. As for my location, I’m north of Strawberry which, like Payson, holds no interest for me any longer. This is unfortunate as at one time it was my dream to retire among the trees of Strawberry to live quietly until my last days.

Looking South Towards Strawberry, Arizona

Should we someday find ourselves living again in Europe, I’ll likely turn to photos like this of our travels in America to remind myself of how spectacular the skies are. By the way, being up here on a Monday turned out to be a real treasure as there were no RZR’s (sport performance vehicles) or Harley Davidson packs screaming down the road. Just me, the breeze, and the birds.

Looking towards Camp Verde, Arizona

Route 260 West is the road that leads me out of the mountains and back to the high desert. Well into the distance is Camp Verde where I’ll check out their historic downtown (disappointing) before getting on the 17 Freeway South to Phoenix.

Juniper Berries near Camp Verde, Arizona

While the temperature was climbing but still pleasant I was able to keep the windows wide open. That wind brought the strong smell of juniper berries into the car, I had to stop at the next fruiting tree to get a look and a deeper whiff. I wish Caroline had been there sharing all of this as her experiencing these things with me amplifies how amazing it is.

On the road to Bumble Bee, Arizona

My body is no longer accustomed to the long hauls as my butt hurts and I have a stiff neck. The neck might be a condition of the pollen as often at this time of year I suffer from a runny nose, burning eyes, and some discomfort in and around the head and shoulders. To relieve the butt pain I pulled off at Bumble Bee with the intention of driving the 5 miles out to this ghost town, but after a mile of dirt road, I’d decided I didn’t want the washboard experience and turned around. I still needed to get out and stretch my legs and work some blood into my backside, plus the view of the desert at the cusp of spring is a sight to linger in.

Weaving Workshop

Caroline Wise at online weaving workshop

Starting March 13th, Caroline joined an online 3D Weaving Workshop. That morning she joined a Zoom meeting hosted by Sally Eyring from Boston, Massachusetts, and for 3 weeks on Saturdays, she was busy for a full 7 hours. Now, I wasn’t around for these “pandemic-safe” workshop days as I headed over to my favorite coffee shop for my very own writing sessions (often gab-fests, to be honest) allowing Caroline to participate uninterrupted by a looming husband (hope you enjoyed the dad-humor pun).

Loom setup for 3D Weaving

This particular process of 3D weaving is a technique developed by Sally Eyring, the instructor, and required some very special tools to make this happen. Some were supplied, such as bungee cords and mitten clips, others Caroline had to find, such as empty gallon water bottles and thread weights. It turns out that having a week between classes was ideal because it allowed Caroline to become much more familiar with the processes instead of the more typical 2.5-day workshop where participants cram everything in between Friday and Sunday afternoon.

3D Weaving pillow cover

The workshop attendees got to choose their own projects. Caroline picked the “bolster pillow.” She wove a sample, trying out different things, then cut it off the loom to see how it was working and to decide on which particular patterns were her favorites. Once that’s done she’ll continue by weaving the actual bolster pillow cover. By the way, weaving samples is typical as it allows the weaver to experiment with different parameters before proceeding with “the real thing.” After the final product has been made it seems likely that Caroline won’t be returning to this technique, but she enjoyed the opportunity to learn something new while discovering that online weaving workshops are viable alternatives to meeting in person.

Trying To Be Somewhere

Fritter from Hurts Donut in Tempe Arizona

This is not one of our usual day trips, as there is no we today; it’s just me. Caroline is at home wrapping up the final day of an online weaving workshop. I, on the other hand, got a late start and sat down for about 10 minutes as I waited for a donut to arrive. Not just any donut, an apple fritter from Hurts Donut in Tempe. Now that I’m here I’m regretting my decision, not the donut due to my diabetes but the other customers who have come in since I sat down. There’s a 10-year-old boy wearing a “Make America Great Again” hat, his 13-year-old brother has a t-shirt emblazoned with “The right of the people to keep and bear arms shall not be infringed” while their sister is not flaunting the family’s right-wing leanings and of course nobody was wearing a mask. A guy before them in his 60s was also maskless and angry looking; he’s probably showing his disdain for the masked libtard sitting here looking at him from behind a computer, writing about him.

I’m becoming allergic to the outside world; just this morning, on our walk, we passed a truck with some stickers that had me asking Google, what is the meaning behind 13 stars with the Roman numeral 3 in the center? The Three Percenters was the answer. Who are they? A far-right group; enough said. Yesterday I had to leave the coffee shop I’ve planted myself in for the past couple of weeks. I left because of 4 white men between 25 and 55 who were waiting to place an order, and none of them were wearing masks, though the owner had a sign requesting customers wear masks until they sat down. This belligerence to masks springing up all of a sudden is due to our right-leaning Governor, who removed mask rules, to the consternation of many political leaders. Damn it, another man just walked into Hurts Donut maskless while I wait for them to finish this batch of fritters that should have been done by now.

Superior, Arizona

With my steaming hot Super-Fritter in a box that I believe normally holds a dozen donuts, I bolted out of Tempe and headed for the 60 Freeway East. I’d love to blame the next bit on my diabetic sugar high that was likely underway, but my anger has been boiling over regarding the blatant displays of ugliness for quite a while by now. I was already blowing fuses in the Mesa area due to the heavy traffic; oh wait, not just heavy traffic but aggressive get-the-fuck-outta-my-way traffic. I drove for a decade in Germany, I’m not foreign to driving fast, but reckless tailgating and swerving in and out of traffic will piss me off. Then, at Florence Junction, I catch a break, and traffic thins as many drivers turn off towards Florence Prison, obviously on their way to visit loved ones.

Then my confirmation bias gets triggered as a group of bikers pass, and one has a Three Percenters logo on his baseball cap. Great, now I’m going to see this damn thing everywhere. This was shortly before pulling into the sleepy, almost a ghost town, blip on the map known as Superior. Our first visit was in the late 1990s after Billy Bob Thornton, Sean Penn, Jennifer Lopez, and Joaquin Phoenix brought this place into the public eye with the film titled U-Turn. Twenty-some years ago, there was nobody here, and there were fewer of them on subsequent visits. I passed through Superior a few times last year on our way out for drives to Duncan or down to Winkelman before hitting Miami back up north for some Mexican food. Those previous stops were at the height of the pandemic, and I guess people weren’t stir-crazy enough then, but today, they were out in droves. I skipped a stop at the gas station for water as I already know that this far out, masks are for idiots and I’m one that belongs to that clan. I did pull into Main Street to take notes but ended up on a quiet side street as sleepy Superior awakening to the potential that might be found in the biker’s wolf-pack economy.

Travelers Hotel in Miami, Arizona

I’m not even hungry yet, nor did I finish the donut, but that doesn’t mean I can’t find room for a green chili burrito from Guayo’s El Rey Mexican restaurant. I called the order in as the place was obviously packed as I drove by, which gave me about 10 minutes to wander around. The first time I took a picture of this building 19 years ago, it wasn’t boarded up, and a lot of the glass was still intact, but today it’s looking sketchier and sketchier. According to the internet, it was built in 1918, but there’s a date up in the concrete that is difficult to see on this small image that says 1927, so I’m going with that. At one time, it was the Travelers Hotel, while during another incarnation, it was the Real Market, and on the south side of the building was the Real Buffet. Someday, maybe it’ll be a meeting hall for the Three Percenters.

Miami, Arizona

From Superior all the way to the New Mexican border out by Duncan and Clifton, this was copper mining country. When mining operations stopped, so did the imagination of anyone who might have lived out in these parts as nothing moved in to pick up the slack to offer jobs. The farming that was going on continued to some degree, but most everything dried up. There are a lot of vacant buildings in various stages of decrepitude that beg for me to enter them, but the most interesting ones are boarded up and locked. Seeing I’m not the kind of guy who enjoys talking to local law enforcement who might be angry with me for breaking and entering, I stick to checking out the obvious and wide open.

Saguaro Cactus on Route 77 north of Winkelman, Arizona

I’m over 100 miles from home before I finally start to feel like I’ve left most everything behind, but the writing is on the wall. Actually, the writing has been well established for a long time as there was a point over twenty-three years ago when, on a drive west of Kingman, Arizona, approaching California, we detoured up Old Route 66, a.k.a. the Oatman Highway looking for a glimpse of the Colorado River. As we talked, I wondered at what point in the future would these desolate places be so overrun that the charm of being far off the beaten path would be lost? I think we are close, but then I suppose I must temper that with the idea that some old guy who passed through these areas in the 1940s probably thought the same thing I was recognizing 50 years later. The cactus in this photo is along Route 77, heading south out of Globe to my next destination.

Giorsettis Superior Grocery in Winkelman, Arizona

I think this is either the 3rd or 4th time I’ve posted a photo of Giorsettis Superior Grocery in Winkelman, Arizona. I love this old market as it doesn’t feel like it changed since the day it opened. The floors give when you step in, and I wish I could buy everything just to boost their profit so they could still be here 20 years from now. While I’ve shared it before, I’ll share it again. Our first visit back in 2002, I believe, was for drinks, but a stack of still-warm tortillas enticed us to buy a dozen. I can’t say we ate them all in the next 15 minutes, but I won’t say we didn’t either. This is one of those places I obviously feel a lot of nostalgia for.

Winkelman, Arizona

Just across the road from the store is an area of Winkelman that all looks about like this. Every time we are down this way, I expect the rest of town will take on the same appearance.

Gila River in Winkelman, Arizona

Where I turned to enter Winkelman is the junction of Route 77 and 177, which returns to Superior. Checking out the decay on the west side of town, I spotted something I don’t believe we ever visited before: an old bridge. Out there in front of me is the 77, which continues its way south to Tucson while I’m standing on a footbridge built back in 1916 that crosses the Gila River.

Hayden Arizona March 2021

Not two minutes north is the town of Hayden, which, from my perspective, should be part of Winkelman; as a matter of fact, Hayden High School is actually in Winkelman. This old mining town is disappearing from reality, and someday, in the not-too-distant future, I expect it will be nearly completely gone.

Hayden Arizona July 2002

This photo was taken in July 2002 on one of our early visits to the area. I have a thing for old gas stations, and as best as I could tell, this was just such a place. With the two pillars and the pipes coming out of the ground at what looks like pedestals to me, I believe this place really was a gas station a long time ago.

Hayden Arizona March 2021

Nineteen years later, the pipes are still there, as is the listing door frame, but everything else is gone. Driving through the remains of the town is nothing shy of a bummer, though the ruins are interesting enough to look at. There are three interesting buildings here for sale: an old theater and two old churches. I cannot see how a place like this could be gentrified and brought back when the poverty that still lives here would have nowhere to go, nor would the inhabitants survive the increase in property values and taxes.

Hayden Arizona March 2021

Along the way, I felt reluctant to continue my trek away from home, but I’m glad I did. Looking at the photos and comparing them to my memories makes this journey worthwhile. The changes in our cultural landscape over the years are starting to impact the way I see the lands of America. They are tinged with an ugliness from our characters as violent, angry, racist, lunkhead thugs who are spoiling the potential that made the United States so appealing. The physical land that lies between the Atlantic and Pacific oceans is like so many other places on Earth, but it has been the promise of opportunity and finding magnificence that, in my view, has been the draw for so many people around our planet for the past couple of centuries. I think there’s a chance that our major cities might suffer catastrophic setbacks as their tax bases shift due to how the pandemic has changed where we work. If New York City or Chicago starts to rapidly decay, how long before they go the way of Buffalo or St. Louis, or worse, they start to mirror towns like Miami, Arizona, and crumble into so much rubble next to the road?

Vaccine Anyone?

Caroline and John Wise about to receive COVID vaccine

This past Monday early in the morning Caroline logged into Arizona’s COVID vaccination website on the hunt for an appointment to at least get me vaccinated, as she’d been doing every day for the past couple of weeks. At 57 years old, obese, with diabetes and high blood pressure, I’m not the person who wants this ugly virus. Much to our surprise, she not only found an empty slot, but she was also able to snag a second appointment for herself 10 minutes after mine. We’d heard that the sites weren’t being strict on scheduled time so we showed up 45 minutes early and were waved right in.

Caroline Wise receiving COVID vaccine

Along a serpentine path around a series of buildings, the barcodes of our appointment verification emails were scanned in and the confirmation number written on our windshield. At the next checkpoint, we were asked about allergies, those with allergies had yellow caution tape tied to their driverside mirror. Not having allergies, we were told to continue driving through the gauntlet of volunteers. The next question was if this was our first or second shot, we continued to the left with other first-timers. The person at the final checkpoint asked all of the questions all over again while also inquiring about our current health condition and if we’d had COVID already.

A few feet forward and a cadre of volunteers verified our data, handed us vaccination cards, requested we open our doors, and asked us to raise our sleeves. The time of the injection was noted on our windshield, we were congratulated on taking the initiative to get this done and asked if we’d like to schedule our second shot, we said yes. The morning of April 7 will see us back here at the same site getting another gentle little jab in the arm. We were told to pull up further once more.

Car at COVID Vaccine site

We pulled up behind some other cars and someone wrote on the windshield when we could leave: 11:30. Caroline and I have now been vaccinated with the Pfizer-BioNTech mRNA vaccine and so far we are seriously happy to be halfway there to having the recommended dose that will hopefully offer an ounce of protection against the worst effects of COVID-19, should either of us contract it at some point in the future.

At 11:30 we were asked how we were feeling and with a confirmation of “all good”, the attendant cleaned off the notes from our windshield that followed us through the entire process and we were off to find us some lunch. While this all took a minute to finally get the appointments, today went surprisingly smoothly. Now we just need a few billion others to get the shots and get our planet back to normal which is kind of new and still unfolding. I’m curious what exactly it might look like.

Wet Things

Rain in Phoenix, Arizona

Yesterday, it rained across Phoenix, and in a desert where that’s a relatively rare occurrence, we celebrate the little we get. While others find the rain to be an inconvenience, the population of our city often steps outside to experience the rain firsthand. Sadly, we have become a bit cynical, though, as when the weather forecast predicts rain, even with a 90% chance, we will be skeptical that it will actually do so. Last year was not only one of the hottest, with the most consecutive 110-degree days and the most 115-degree days overall, but also one of the driest years on record. Over the past six months, this lack of water has been most obvious in the number of dead trees throughout our neighborhood.

Rain in Phoenix, Arizona

Cinderblocks and asphalt, with very few undeveloped lands around the Phoenix area, have created a heat island that is changing our weather. The effect of houses and streets on the environment is the most obvious when we walk around the block and find that the air near some wide-open state preserve land is noticeably cooler than in the developed area next to it. Instead of trying to conserve water and limit growth, Arizona is attracting a lot of people to move here and not curtailing the use of water for pools and golf courses. I just read that the corporation commission will be raising our water rates by 6% this year, which seems to be the typical increase for the past few years as if paying more, the biggest users will curtail their use. How greater profits equate to filling rivers, reservoirs, and aquifers is beyond my puny brain.

Rain in Phoenix, Arizona

So, on these rare days when it rains, we have to pause and appreciate that this stuff can still fall from the sky like magic. Not only does it glisten in the sun that peeks through the clouds, but it also ignites an explosion of wet earth smells from petrichor to creosote and various woods that seduce those of us outside our homes to celebrate the occasion. I should admit that there is one downside to the rain: Those of us who wear glasses will likely never get used to the droplets that turn into rivulets sliding down our field of vision. Yeah, I know, wear contact lenses, and the problem is solved, but that is not congruent with my brand of laziness.