Commitment to be in Place

Duncan, Arizona

Of course, a day has a beginning, and in this cliche of announcing its arrival to recount what passed in those early moments, I find myself regretting wanting to offer a laundry list of things we did, which ended up being nothing more than taking a walk in the direction of the nearby Gila River. A river that has been flowing heavily, according to our hosts, and that recently flooded this small town of Duncan, Arizona. The same river I wrote of yesterday that I thought we’d find as dry as the environment we left at home.

Giving importance to what we are doing here in Duncan seems noteworthy, although I’m looking at things that those who live here find absolutely normal. I attempt to elevate our own experience of this commonplace stop on the map so that our memories might remain with us and not be immediately lost in the multitude of impressions we take in on a day-to-day basis. This reminds me that I’ve rarely ever traveled across Phoenix with the idea of noting what sights and moments I’d capture as though I were visiting it for the first time, an exercise worthy of consideration.

Near the Gila River in Duncan, Arizona

Along the way, we encountered two guys sharing the same path. They were obviously out here looking for birds, which had me bringing up that we’d just spotted a couple of sandhill cranes, but nothing like what we’d seen earlier this year down by Douglas, Arizona. One of the guys piped up, saying that must have been Whitewater Draw; it sure was. While it took a second for my brain to process things, it dawned on me that if he knew that place, he might know of others, and so before there was much distance placed between us and them, we turned around. Well, I’m happy we did, as this introduced us to Arizona Birding Tours, with Caleb being one of their guides. He recommended that if time allows this weekend, we might want to pay a visit to the nearby Gila Box Riparian National Conservation Area. While writing this, I popped over to the Arizona Birding Tours website and signed up for their newsletter, hoping this seed sprouts and that in the new year, we’ll find ourselves on our first official birding tour.

The Gila River in Duncan, Arizona

Well, well, the Gila River is running high and even has a bit of fast water flowing through it. That the river crested at about 22 feet is evidenced in the tree line where debris collected. This must have been quite the sight. Not watching or paying attention to any local media, we often have no idea what is going on in Arizona, and to be sure, we prefer it that way.

Following our wakeup walk in the brisk air that hovered in the low 40s and included a close encounter with a herding dog ensuring we weren’t interested in his goats, we sauntered back to the oh-so-historic Simpson Hotel for our rendezvous with breakfast and our now firm decision to remain in place while attempting to do as little as possible. While not on the bongos, Clayton did take up the stove to prepare us a home-cooked meal that, as usual, smacked of perfection.

The art of Don Carlos at the Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

From the kitchen, the music of Françaix’s Oboe Concerto titled L’Horloge de Flore: Silène Noctiflore is wafting into the dining room where breakfast was taken, and we are currently contemplating how we’ll implement this strategy of doing things that amount to nothing. There’s little to think about, fleeting ideas to consider writing about, and if I were smarter than I am, I’d know to leave my mouth shut and to take a vow of silence when presented with these opportunities to be somewhere with myself. Instead, I detour into small talk that leaves me uncomfortable with that dreaded sense that coffee-driven conversation was too frantic when what I thought I really wanted was internal quiet. So it goes.

Do not look for a lot of correlation between today’s images and what I write of, though sometimes that will work out. To a large extent, I have more photos of specifics while my writing might be all over the map, which others can attest to as being my norm when it comes to talking.

The Pompeian Bakery at the Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

Sitting in the garden, having pulled up a seat in front of the Pompeian Bakery, I’m surrounded by the insects that obviously saw an explosion in their numbers due to the rains and flooding during the monsoon season. If I were a betting man, I’d wager this swarming horde is at work to drive me away while the warm sun, sound of the fountain, and chirp of crickets beg me to stay put. Mosquitos might prove persuasive enough to send me indoors, but I will not be easily defeated as I’m no village near Naples, nor are the bugs a kind of pyroclastic flow.

The art of Don Carlos at the Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

One of the kittens romps about on the hunt to play with the grasshoppers and little white butterflies, while the older cats cannot be bothered with youth’s antics. The cats move between sun and shade, and the occasional visit for a quick head rub or even snuggly intimacy to let me know they have claws with a need to knead. I can only oblige one or the other for so long before they grow weary of my hand or me of their retractable needles.

The art of Don Carlos at the Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

These moments of romanticized encounters in the garden were short-lived. I can blame it on the offering of coffee and that it might be better enjoyed inside, or I can admit that the sun grew oppressive, the flying insects annoying, and my patience for such things thin. Whine and comfort can exist on the same menu as I try to choose my words, but what of the proverbial substance of thought I could be serving up? Can’t say I know a definitive answer to that as I tune back into the tick-tock of the clock.

The art of Don Carlos at the Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

Here we are in the diorama of our own experience, looking out into a temporary reality while believing we are on yet another weekend trip. One potential alternate scenario is that we are borrowing the environment we’ve traveled to, and from the constructs offered by this place, we are temporarily within a diorama hybridizing our world with that of the Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona. to create a new moment on the stage in the box of our existence. [The Latin quotes in the background are “Odi profanum vulgus et Arceo – I hate the common masses and avoid them” and “Facere quod in se est – Do what lies within you” – Caroline]

The art of Don Carlos at the Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

The pieces of who we are are like the ruins of the architecture that preceded us. We are built from their dust while the words in our heads have spilled off the pages of every book ever written. It’s our life’s work to create new architectures while penning our own novel stories, bringing mythologies and potential meaning to this entity of ours while desiring to understand the absurdity of its presence in the moments it has been granted life.

The art of Don Carlos at the Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

Is that the man Don Carlos behind the pig whose maw holds the glowing orb of time travel? Metaphorically and literally, I would have to say yes, but the sense of the message from the artist is lost as it is not a forthcoming gesture from him to explain anything other than maybe the title of his work. Even armed with that, there is little meaning the artist can begin to convey for the individual experiencing their art as it is from our internal dialogue and personal history that we’ll attack this interpretation of reality.

The art of Don Carlos at the Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

I’ve stood here before, but the circumstances and outcomes were all different. The pieces might be the same, and the setting could be similar, but nothing is as it was. Visiting places existing in art does not benefit from changing seasons, dramatic differences in light, or the immediate weather, but we will experience them differently as our maturity and knowledge evolve. So, like visiting a favorite place over the course of many years, we should be so fortunate to revisit the art we’ve encountered during our lives but do you remember what was where over the course of your travels?

The art of Don Carlos at the Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

From this tiny corner in a larger piece, I’m going with this as a depiction of Saint Thecla when she was visiting the Apostle Paul in prison; yep, that’s what comes to mind.

The art of Don Carlos at the Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

Hidden in the corner of the ruins of Rome sits the abandoned head of cowardly Nero Claudius Caesar Augustus Germanicus. He’s disfigured by the fires that still burn behind him. Don’t let Don Carlos tell you that my interpretations are way off base because my freebasing while writing this shit is all the inspiration I need to see the truth.

Don Carlos' workspace at Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

Such was the great influence of seeing the studio of Francis Bacon that I now desire to find that impression of chaos in the space of any artist’s corner I’m fortunate enough to visit. Looking at stacks of dusty tools, possibly neglected projects or pieces that were at one time intended for something or other and that yet might find their way into a work, draws me in to wonder about meaning and utility. When exploring my own headspace, I don’t have the luxury of physically moving things around. Even if of little value, I can hold a thing in my hand and let it resonate about how it could come into play. At least in the realm of digital arts, I have icons, tabs, and texts that draw me into considering what that thing can offer me; here, in my mind, I’m forced to sift through invisible impressions that might hint at ideas not yet realized.

Don Carlos' workspace at Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

I’m seized by either envy or respect that by reaching out, I could grab a tool that would allow me to share a brushstroke, the beginning of a great visual piece of representation that would allow the observer to snatch a moment from my imagination. Stop a moment, Mr. Wordsmith, this other artist, is likely also stymied at times with the thought that a single brushstroke is but a line that potentially goes nowhere and is no more effective in conveying anything more than my leaving the letter Z here for no real purpose.

Don Carlos' workspace at Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

Is that an urn, a finial, or part of an old baluster? Next to it, a skull and shutters set up a Shakespearean randomness that occupies a shelf in the artist’s studio, while the juxtaposition might even be a contrivance speaking of the spirit of humanity ascending the heights before throwing open the shutters of the mind and imagination to gaze into and upon what it has not yet seen or dreamt.

Cobwebs at Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

Dust and cobwebs are proof that time has passed. They are not inherently dirty as there is no illness or disease that can accumulate or be attributed to such things. Some might argue an allergic sensitivity on behalf of the compulsively clean, who, in my view, are delusional with a propensity for drama and hysterics.

Cobwebs at Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

These relics of the passage of time suggest mystery and the absence of something as though they are filling the void to allow the passerby to think that nothing else is here aside from the echoes of the past. The dust tells us that things are settling, while the cobwebs hint at where spiders dwell, though their dusty condition also offers the clue that their inhabitants have moved on. Maybe we should, too.

Caroline Wise with cat at Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

As I ponder cobwebs and dust, I can easily believe that our plastic trash, like human webs, is gathering the dust of our neglect. Of the trash, we show little concern, but should we encounter the scourge of perceived uncleanliness, we clamber for the outrage befitting such housekeeping (or lack thereof). This begs the question, is Yelp where the Karens and Kens metaphorically glue their hands onto a painting in order to express their outrage while kicking back to watch Rome burn under the plastic facade of fake concern?

There are places that demand certain things from people, such as a museum that invites one to appreciate the art, a visit to the coast on a late fall day suggests a bundled-up walk might be nice, while moments spent in an old cathedral demands silent contemplation. Here at the Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona, we both feel the draw of remaining in place, sitting with the cats, listening to the tick-tock of the wall clock, and experiencing the quiet of everything else.

Old movie theater in Duncan, Arizona closed since 1979

By now, I’ve walked miles in circles that don’t extend very far in any direction, primarily here at the hotel, its garden, the art gallery, and this roofless, defunct old movie theater next door. Should I stop and consider things deeply, I can recognize that much of my trek has been in the created world of artist-in-residence Don Carlos and his dioramas that foster travel through history and literature. These reflections of his musings dare the visitor to find their own interpretation of where they’ve been after going within. For me, I apparently walked endlessly in these miniature settings until, with hunger approaching, we found ourselves on a stroll outward, thus breaking the spell we’d strove for to do as much of nothing as possible.

Duncan, Arizona

There doesn’t seem to be anything else to write about. For one, we are sitting down for dinner at the Ranch House, which is our second visit today. And my writing is ignoring Caroline here on my left. I’ve handed her the two other pages of what I’ve been writing this afternoon so I can write about nothing much at all as we await the delivery of our meals. The situation then begs the question, why don’t we just bring up our phones like normal people so we can avoid conversation? Just as I ask this very question, Caroline, now finished with reading my blathering, brings up her phone and reads about the history of Our Lady of Guadalupe.

Sunset in Duncan, Arizona

Hear our prayers, holy mother of god; we have a hunger for that which nourishes our guts. Like a miracle, our enchiladas materialized right before us. Caroline corrected me on this to inform me that our server, Mackenzie, actually delivered them while I was paying more attention to being in my own world than sharing dinner with my wife.

Flittering It All Away – Trip 18

Shower repairs in Phoenix, Arizona

Apartment maintenance necessitated an impromptu weekend away from home. Due to slightly toxic fumes and the inability to use our shower before Monday, we decided to get outta town. We are heading east towards the Arizona border to the town of Duncan, just this side of New Mexico. Apparently, this will be the 4th visit to that tiny outpost, spending a night or more, though not all stays involved, both Caroline and me, and we’ve been through there at other times.

Caroline Wise at Starbucks in Mesa, Arizona

Who knew that we’d get out so early that there would be time to flitter away? That’s just what happened when Caroline told me she was ready to leave as 2:00 p.m. came around. A decision had to be made: where would hang out a bit to delay our adventure due to appetite and dining options? Well, traffic on a Friday played a role here. I knew it would have to be past the intersection of Highway 202 and Highway 60 so the worst of the traffic would be behind us. Starbucks was the answer, just not one in a grocery store, and that’s just where we are. Caroline is knocking out some DuoLingo stuff before getting to knitting my next pair of socks, and as for me, obviously, I took the photo and am writing this paragraph. But I’m almost done here; it’s only 3:10, and I’m thinking we’ll leave here in about 30 minutes, so I’ll return to writing about our first trip to Hawaii in which, after visiting three other islands, we have arrived on Molokai.

Billboard about The Big Lie entering Miami, Arizona

A key part of this journey east has other requirements, such as stopping for dinner in Guayo’s El Rey in Miami. You might think, “Hey John, what about La Paloma Mexican restaurant over in Solomon?” I’d love to inform you that Solomon is only 35 miles from where we’re staying, so either Saturday night or Sunday afternoon, we’ll be stopping there, too. Then there’s the Ranch House restaurant right there in Duncan where we’ll likely take lunch tomorrow as we do like supporting the local economy. As for activities, I’m still eyeballing those options, with Caroline already having voiced the idea that we could simply hang out, sit in the garden, walk along the likely dry riverbed of the Gila River, write, knit, and do other nothingnesses.

Taylor Freeze in Pima, Arizona

The “Enable The Big Lie” sign was on the way into Miami and required a U-turn around to take a closer look as neither of us could believe it hadn’t been defaced or if it even meant what we thought it meant. These rural corners of Arizona are chock full of extremist rightwing fascists who are so tanked up on anger that, even if I were inclined to put bumper stickers on cars, I couldn’t at this time due to the potential of imbeciles to target our car in a hate crime. Hell, even driving a hybrid feels like flirting with potential risk, as who other than some lefty pansy would consider anything that won’t haul 42 tons and burn diesel?

When we leave the metropolitan area, I go on guard to stay out of the way of the white, angry, 20- to 55-year-old men driving trucks with wheels as big as my wife is tall, and conversely, when we approach cities, I’m on guard once again keeping an eye out for the maniacs driving like animals on the hunt aiming for home, where there must be a fresh lamb awaiting slaughter.

With my brain making me feel the rumblies of stress, we required a stop at Taylor Freeze in Pima in need of a treat that only one of their chocolate shakes could satisfy.

Rainbows of Contemplation

Grand Canyon National Park North Rim, Arizona

You can be certain that we were nearly the first at breakfast as we were uncertain at which point they’d run out of food. Should you wonder why we didn’t head somewhere else for dinner or breakfast, well, “somewhere else” is Jacob Lake, about 45 miles away, which requires an easy hour to drive in each direction.

Grand Canyon National Park North Rim, Arizona

It’s a rare day in a national park that we pull up to the best seats in a lodge to just sit back and watch the weather pass, but that’s what we are embarking on right now. From a still-dark canyon when we first peeked into this fog-filled void prior to our visit to the dining room, the rain comes and goes. Also on the move have been some whisps of clouds forming off the edges of cliffs and nearby outcroppings.

Grand Canyon National Park North Rim, Arizona

In between, the sun pops out and brings golden light to small corners of the vast landscape sprawled before us, while at other fleeting moments, rainbows spring into their ephemeral existence and just as quickly fade away. The canopy floats by or is it hovering over the canyon? Whatever it’s doing or how it might be characterized, it’s beautiful.

Grand Canyon National Park North Rim, Arizona

Sitting here, I think about how, previously, we’ve seen others passing their time at this picture window and thought they were wasting an opportunity when they could have been on the go and capturing so much more outside on the trails. Maybe that was a testament to how much more contemplative those people were as compared to us at the time because here we are today, just like those people, monopolizing the comfy leather couch facing the panorama window.

Rainbow at the Grand Canyon National Park North Rim, Arizona

Just one of the many rainbows we watched come and go.

Grand Canyon National Park North Rim, Arizona

There won’t be a lot of variation in these photos aside from shifting weather and light as our plan to hit the North Kaibab Trail for a few miles of hiking today has been scratched due to the rain and our general satisfaction that not only had we hiked a considerable amount yesterday (about 12 miles), but we have these great seats that seem to be encouraging us to keep them warm (and get some sock knitting done).

Grand Canyon National Park North Rim, Arizona

A funny aside, when people want to step in front of the window we are camping at, they often excuse themselves as though the view was all ours.

Peggy Walker and Caroline Wise at the Grand Canyon National Park North Rim, Arizona

Funnier yet was meeting Larry and Peggy Walker, World Travelers. Larry first tried passing his wife off on me; well, he threatened that she might sit in my lap if I objected to sharing the view. This was followed up by him moving slyly into my spot next to Caroline when I had stood up to snap a photo or two. His smiling face of “Gotcha” was certainly worth a good laugh. It turned out that these two were celebrating their 50th anniversary this week while also accompanying some friends who were renewing their vows in Vegas. Larry and Peggy are just an awesome happy couple and an inspiration to both of us. Hopefully, we, too see our 50th anniversary someday.

Grand Canyon National Park North Rim, Arizona

We sat a bit longer and started to learn that many people want to stop and talk, so contemplative moments are not all that easy to have. With this realization, we consider that it’s time to get moving again, but just then, another weather front is coming in from the east, and I’m curious to watch the canyon disappear again. As we got up after sitting there for close to three hours, we saw that all around us, the trappings that make the lodge a comfy place had been disappearing as the crew, anxious to be finished for the season, had been busy clearing the place out.

Vermilion Cliffs seen from Marble Canyon, Arizona

This must be a record year regarding how many times we’ve passed through the Vermilion Cliffs area, and each encounter is as worthy as any of the other travels through here.

Over the Colorado River on the Navajo Bridge in Marble Canyon, Arizona

I’ve taken countless photos over the years of the Colorado River from the Navajo Bridge but I’m not sure I’ve ever taken one in this kind of light. I took this thought not as yet another iteration of this scene but as an establishing shot of what comes next. First, though, there’s a tiny detail at the top of the cliffside on the right, and while you can’t see it right now, it’ll all become clear in the next photo. Oh, and consider that the bridge we are on is 467 feet (142 meters) over the river below, which should give you some idea about the scale.

Condors at Navajo Bridge in Marble Canyon, Arizona

On the lower right sits an incredibly rare bird, rarer than its parents, above it to the left. That black spot is a fledgling condor born in the wild, one of a small handful. These are just three of the approximately 115 condors that are hopefully still alive in Arizona, and if I had to guess, I’d say that Caroline and I have seen no less than 15 of these giants of the scavenger world or more than 10% of all condors in our state; that’s simultaneously cool and tragic. Think about it: we are barely holding on to the 500 or so California Condors that still exist, although that’s from a low point of just 27 birds left in existence back in 1987. If we are having this difficulty keeping a species of bird with a 10-foot wide wingspan alive, what would make us believe we can keep ourselves going into the future? And if you believe it’s natural selection, the demise of condors was due to humans using lead ammunition for hunting and leaving animals and entrails in the wild where the birds would naturally finish them off. The resulting lead poisoning nearly brought them to extinction.

Rainbow seen over Highway 89 north of Flagstaff, Arizona

Since leaving the remarkable sight of the fledgling, we’ve been hitting intermittent rain, sometimes heavy. Just south of Flagstaff, the intensity of this rainbow demanded we stop. Sadly, the photo does it no justice.

Flagstaff, Arizona

From a distance, we thought we were looking at sun rays shining through the clouds onto the forest that sits on the flank of San Francisco Mountain below Humphry’s Peak, that’s well out of sight. Nope, it wasn’t until we pulled over that we saw the thousands of Aspen trees changing color with the change of season.

Rainbow seen over Highway 17 south of Flagstaff, Arizona

Hmmm, maybe Sedona is the magic place so many believe it is, as here we are at Highway 179, which is the exit for Sedona, and it was double-rainbows all the way.