Leaving The Sun Behind

On Highway 70 in Eastern Arizona

With our recent rains, an abundance of wildflowers is starting to bloom across the landscape, but our tight schedule won’t allow us the opportunity to stop and smell those mostly scentless blossoms. A few days ago, I wrote that we’d be heading east, and that’s just what we are doing on this road that will bring us back to Duncan, Arizona. Once we arrive out there, we’ll be just a few miles from New Mexico. Prior to that, but not quite at the halfway point of our journey, we’ll make what is now an obligatory stop in Miami at Guayo’s El Rey Mexican restaurant. Yeah, I know it was only three days ago I was there, and yet again, I’ll be dining on carne asada as they have perfected this dish. I’ve already called ahead to ensure I wouldn’t be stopping, only to find disappointment. Had they been sold out, the plan was to stop at La Paloma Mexican restaurant in Solomon, Arizona, but it turns out that later, we’d have been foiled as they closed forever back on Valentine’s Day.

Prior to this highly anticipated dinner with the sun still offering us ample light, Caroline continued making progress in The Muqaddimah: An Introduction to History by 14th-century scholar Ibn Khaldûn. The book is a bit dry at times, dated too, but then we consider that this was written in the 14th century when Europe was just starting to emerge from the Dark Ages that had lasted since the fall of Rome. It’s important to note that Europe only reawakened for the Renaissance following the revival of Humanism, meaning classical learning. Hey America, how long will you lie fallow, allowing your intellectual druthers to rot on the vine? Anyway, the book goes on, and our surprise continues as the parallels with modernity appear prescient.

On Highway 70 in Eastern Arizona

Quickly shifting roadside hues of reds, oranges, purples, and yellows with nearly similar tones skyward were drawing our eyes to these bursts of color instead of the road ahead. Fortunately for us, our new car has adaptive cruise control, stay-in-lane technology, and some other features that allow the indulgence of gazing at the beauty that will only be part of the Arizona desert for brief moments before disappearing for the evening.

While only a weekend getaway, this is still a vacation for us, and while in this mode, we can easily allow ourselves to fall into full indulgence. An hour past Miami, we will be arriving in Pima, Arizona, along with seemingly everyone else from the area showing up at Taylor Freeze for a St. Patrick’s Day celebratory ice cream. A shared malted chocolate shake warmed our souls as it’s a rare day that we stop for such a treat.

On Highway 70 in Eastern Arizona

Our arrival at Chateau Simpson is heralded with fanfare by the village folk celebrating in drunken revelry to Honky Tonk Badonkadonk in the streets of Duncan. Others might say that this was merely their way of commemorating St. Patrick’s Day, but I’m taking it as a sign that they knew we were coming and pulled out all the stops.

Clearing the crowd, renowned artist Don Carlos cut a path so we might sooner take refuge in the chateau, greeting us with a hearty welcome as though he were opening his home to King Kaka Fuego and his bride Ninnyhammer instead of the humble guests we are. The Old Library Room would be our sanctuary for the duration, and we were assured that we’d be the only other guests, along with a couple of treasure-hunting geologists attempting to appear inconspicuous, but anyone with an iota of worldly experience could see the adventure they were on: they were here to grab the gold and run.

Prior to taking up our familiar places in the parlor for hot tea and even hotter conversation, we would need to pay our respects to Dimitri, Malaki, Angelina, Fabio, and Molly, who would parade by offering us claws, seductive feline purrs, and feigning aloofness implying their lack of interest, though we all know that cats require attention on their terms and will get it. With the formalities out of the way, we could get down to talking psychedelics, Proust, Tacitus, Bergson, and Death by Bunga.

That’s kind of how things went prior to laying our heads down to sleep for the first night of our weekend away.

Not As Planned

Miami, Arizona

Sure, I might have just gotten home a few days ago but if a friend needs a getaway, I can be the person to accommodate that. And this time that friend was Brinn who started his career as a nurse months ago and has been working hard without a chance for a quick overnight getaway. We finalized our plans last night, and then this morning I talked with Clayton over at the Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona, to find out that he could have a couple of rooms made up for us. Well then, nothing more to do than wait for Brinn to finish dealing with another commitment before he could meet me for us to get on the road.

Miami, Arizona

Perfect timing, we are pulling into Miami for, you guessed it, Guayo’s El Rey Mexican restaurant for our favorite carne asada ever. Charbroiled beef smothered in green chili and cheese from this place never fails to satisfy, unless they are sold out as they were when Caroline and I passed through here nearly a couple of months ago. If I were a smart man I’d leave out these references to my food obsessions, but like all things, either they will go away or I will and then all that will be left are these notes about either or both. It’s just like this long abandoned Motel Villa at 1640 Cherry Avenue and Highway 60 in Miami that I can’t find a lick of information about. Maybe if a traveler back in the days when their sign lit up along the highway into Phoenix had taken a moment to document their journey, photographed the sign when it shone brightly and shared their experience staying at Motel Villa, I’d be able to walk in their memories.

There are many abandoned properties to be found in Miami. While I ultimately learned from a real estate site that Motel Villa was built in 1951, that will never satisfy my curiosity about the rest of the town which has an incredible visual appeal to my searching eyes. The journey to learn about this one property did inspire me to consider revisiting these places such as Miami, Winkelman, Kearny, Clifton, Duncan, and so many others that are fading off the map, to capture what does remain in order to provide at least a visual reference for others that might be on a similar quest in the future to find out what they can about this part of our disappearing history.

Picketpost Mountain in Superior, Arizona

If you knew the geography of this part of Arizona you’d know that Picketpost Mountain should not be showing up at this point in my post. You see, we are now traveling west having just passed through Superior which is east of Miami. Why might we have turned around? Because relationships are complicated. This isn’t a reference to Brinn and me, suffice it to say he needed to give his attention to something more important than being out of town.

View east from across the Picketpost Mountain in Superior, Arizona

No matter though, Caroline will be thrilled that I’m going to be home tonight and we were able to have lunch at what should be the world-famous Guayo’s El Rey. The idea of staying out at the Simpson Hotel will also inspire Caroline and me to book a couple of nights this coming weekend so there’s that win too. Finally, this was a beautiful day for a drive with the first signs of wildflowers looking to explode on the landscape promising a colorful trip across the desert in the coming days.

Crushed Expectations

Sunrise near Valley of the Gods in Mexican Hat, Utah

It’s basically a day like so many others before it: I wake before the sun nudges me from sleep, except on this occasion, my head rises alone for the last time before I get home later today and snuggle in next to the person I love. Carlos and I are bringing to an end our brief five-day excursion that took us to places new to him but mostly familiar to me.

One never knows what might be shared when traveling with a young person, nor does one go on adventures knowing what can be learned about oneself. I anticipated prior to our departure that I’d have my stamina challenged as this 20-year-old young man would have boundless energy, but here, at the cusp of 60 years old, I’ve found the exact opposite. My day started more than an hour ago; I’m showered, packed, and sitting in the dark writing as I’ve already learned to let him sleep because he can fall asleep at the breakfast table, in the car while chatting, listening to music, exploring an environment he’s never seen. Sunrises are not his thing.

We surprisingly leave Mexican Hat, Utah, before the sun has risen, one of the rare opportunities for Carlos to witness the phenomenon for himself, hopefully not the last. While there are rough ideas for how this day might progress, there’s nothing fixed aside from the certainty that we will be traveling south.

We’ll cross over the San Juan River and find the Valley of the Gods in sight before stopping to stare at the sun, looking for the best way to capture its image. I have my ideas of how to photograph our star, but Carlos is new to this experience, which will force him to practice this type of portraiture. As is typical with my method of travel, it’s not long before we are pulling over again for me to learn if I can see something with new eyes in a way that will allow me to bring an experience of the senses home with me I’d not previously encountered. It’s all an experiment, even if I’ve traveled this way a dozen or more times before.

Sunrise near Valley of the Gods in Mexican Hat, Utah

I know we have options regarding how this early part of the day might unfold, but as has been true the previous days, Carlos is along for the ride and has had no input regarding what comes next as this has all been an unfolding surprise of discovery for him.

If, from the title of today’s missive, you think I’m ending our journey on a negative note (Crushed Expectations could imply just that, couldn’t it?), you’d be wrong as the expectations Carlos entertained leading up to this adventure into unknowns proved wrong, well at least one important bit. You see, in order to allay his anticipated boredom due to the long haul across the featureless landscape, Carlos brought nearly a dozen books along with him. My thought was, who brings a dozen books on a road trip other than the person who fears not only becoming bored by the environment but one who becomes bored by the titles he’s attempting to read?

Monument Valley as seen from Utah

Instead, Carlos began falling into what it means to find the art to be seen in all things, and if he’s fortunate, he might discover the love to be found there, too. Like most young Americans brought up on a diet of instant gratification found in being over-stimulated by addictive media that dismiss that which is not consumed through a screen or intense human-created experiences, Carlos wasn’t prepared for the enchantment that awaited him by exploring immense space.

Monument Valley as seen from Utah

But here we are in the resonating throws of an experience that has unfolded in ways unexpected to the mind and imagination of a young man who now wants to continue the journey. By now, I’ve shared one of the secrets that have served Caroline and me so well: from the experiences you love, leave something undone so it will be the thing that draws you back. For Carlos, that draw was a hoped-for visit to the Grand Canyon, but our diversion and distractions that are allowed to happen will slice into the time that might have otherwise been available for a quick visit.

Carlos Guerrero entering Arizona from Utah

The loop is closing, though I hope the road ahead for Carlos will be a divergent one where he’s able to find a path of his own making instead of stumbling into the ruts etched by others following routines that rarely, if ever, change.

Winter on the Navajo Reservation north of Kayenta, Arizona

One cannot always simply go forward; we must yield to impasses, even if we created them ourselves. The road does not go on forever; you have to choose which way you will turn, though crashing into the wall ahead is also an option often chosen.

Winter on the Navajo Reservation north of Kayenta, Arizona

And if you can’t see everything ahead of you, that’s okay; perspective shifts and surprises work to enhance what will have been gained after finding the flexibility and adaptability to work within your situation.

Blue Coffee Pot restaurant in Kayenta, Arizona

To many, maybe a stop at a roadside diner is just another place for a meal, but for me, finding the Blue Coffee Pot Restaurant in Kayenta, Arizona, on the Navajo Reservation open is a treasure. Carlos hadn’t noticed that initially, we were the only two non-Navajo customers in the joint; others passing through town are more likely to stop at the next-door McDonald’s or Burger King as those are the brands they know. Caroline and I have already visited this small restaurant and know that it’s not anything special, but we delight in the knowledge that our money will more directly support the Navajo community instead of some already wealthy executives in faraway Chicago, Illinois.

So, we take up a table, are brought coffee, and await our meal from but a few choices. Normally, I might have dug into writing so I’d have notes allowing me to add granular details to a trip, but over the course of these days, I’ve used my writing time as talking time to iterate and reiterate thoughts and ideas I believe worthy for a young person to at least hear once or twice before finding them at some future date. I’m a bit relentless in pressing these lessons into the ears of Carlos, who doesn’t seem bothered at all by the constant barrage. And so we talk, even at the expense of my breakfast cooling off instead of being eaten.

Comic of John Wise by Morgan Navarro from Grenoble, France

And then breakfast will grow colder as I watch a man wearing headphones enter the restaurant holding a mic in a windscreen and circle the place. It turns out that his name is Jack, and he’s traveling with his friend Morgan; the two Frenchmen are on a pilgrimage to document the path of Hunter S. Thompson, and after getting Jack’s attention, the two of us talk. This traveling journalist/podcaster half-wondered, half-asked, “Why has America seemingly failed to find inspiration from Hunter S. Thompson, and what are my tips for their next destination of Las Vegas?”

I have a tickle in my throat due to all of my talking, and realize that people I enjoy talking to likely believe I talk like this all the time. Little do they understand that there are few people I like talking to, and that’s why I find myself so often before the screen typing, writing in a notebook, reading, or walking around looking at my world and spending time in my own inner dialog. The majority of people which whom I start a conversation only last about 5 to 10 minutes before eyes start rolling, hands fidget, and their body language is a subtle contortion of squirming. When I run into someone with the tiniest spark of curiosity, and I have their attention, I try to dump a sense of passion for knowledge and discovery into them without overwhelming the person or losing them in intertwined examples they typically easily lose track of what thread I’m adding to the tapestry I’m attempting to weave.

Navajo Reservation south of Kayenta, Arizona

This metaphor of creating a cloth is hopefully an apt one because in weaving, complexity and a lot of preparation precede the outcome; similarly, the listener might be confused about the relationship of elements in a conversation being laid down; they cannot yet detect the pattern or value of the way things will be woven into their own experience. We, humans, are often not accustomed to listening to complexities of relationships between unfamiliar ideas and thoughts, finding it difficult to mix them into our own understanding, but this is essentially what the observer witnesses as the weaver throws the weft over the warp, we are not seeing the entire picture or finished form.

Graffiti on the Navajo Reservation in Shonto, Arizona

As the storyteller, I try my best to unravel the image drawn from my experience in a way that makes sense to the listener or reader, but this a fragment spun out of the impossibility of always finding a perfect coherence just as nobody has ever found the perfect alignment of musical notes that create the greatest melody which becomes the definitive song of all time and destroys the need for any new music after this discovery. Nope, we continue throwing contrasting notes into a melange of songs as people enjoy the variety. Sadly, the same cannot be said for stories, especially particularly difficult and possibly obtuse ones.

Graffiti on the Navajo Reservation in Shonto, Arizona

Our vocabulary and experience limit our ability to see beyond the immediacy of self, and through eroding attention spans, we have evolved narratives that have shrunk in much the same manner as moving from Victorian undergarments to g-strings in little more than a generation or two. So now we are left with a society communicating using monosyllabic language that accompanies an equally narrow comprehension. If this brevity is sufficient for operating daily life, then why not apply it to the interpretation of viewing the entirety of what lies ahead? The answer to this is that brevity and simplicity are inadequate for finding knowledge buried in the magnitude of what is before us.

Cow Springs, Arizona

There’s no bridging the chasm from an old-fashioned set of underwear (thoughts) to the other side of the abyss using a g-string (memes). I believe that a comparison could be made by suggesting that Beethoven’s 5th Symphony, comprising four parts lasting 30 to 40 minutes, could be reduced to one note, although in some way, it can be reduced to just the first four. Of the rest of the piece, I suppose it could be claimed that if you heard it once, why does one need to hear it again? Could the answer be found in the fact that humans learn very little to nothing after a single iteration of new information arriving to their senses?

Cow Springs Trading Post in Cow Springs, Arizona

So, we go out to find, see, listen, and hear those things in life we are unfamiliar with, which is precisely what I’m attempting to share with Carlos. When one stops at a friend’s home and listens to a person playing the 5th symphony on piano, they have no real idea of the piece’s complexity if it were being played by a symphony. In our current age, we don’t care. We have the 15-second loop of Beethoven that accompanies the TikTok video with a witty phrase typed over it, and we believe we’ve gained the kind of deep knowledge that has served the sages over millennia. We are whole, we are complete, and we can now face the world with certainty that what was needed to forge a way ahead has been acquired. This is grotesquely untrue; we only thrive when knowledge and wisdom reach deeper into our souls.

Elephant Feet in Tonalea, Arizona

Mind you; this perception is not due to observations made regarding the person I’m traveling with; on the contrary, he’s quite curious, which is also the only reason we went out to share five days of being immersed in what for him are mostly new experiences. It’s precisely his willingness to look, listen, read, and wonder that allowed a basic foundation to be established where I felt that if I took the horse to water, it might likely drink. He supplied the seed, and I provided the sunlight and water.

John_Carlos_Roadtrip

This was the route of our 1,300-mile adventure.