Arizona Trail and Walnut Canyon

Walnut Creek via AZT Walnut Canyon in Flagstaff, Arizona

Wait a moment, weren’t we just here yesterday? Well, no. This is Walnut Canyon National Monument east of Flagstaff, but as we pulled up to the pay station, the park didn’t open for another 30 minutes. So, we turned around to check out the dirt road we passed, probably less than a quarter mile behind us which leads to the trailhead for the AZT, a.k.a. Arizona Trail. A couple of miles in, an oncoming bicyclist waved at us in a way that said, “Wait a sec.” He informed us we might want to think twice about driving down the hill as the road is rocky, and beyond that, it’s quite rutted. We immediately pulled over and continued on foot. He was right about the road condition, and it turned out that the trailhead was just past that stuff.

Walnut Creek via AZT Walnut Canyon in Flagstaff, Arizona

On the trail information panel, we saw a number of spurs, but it was the Walnut Creek via AZT Walnut Canyon Trail that caught our eye. Only five miles with the promise of seeing lots of horny toads. OK, I just made that up, but sure enough, we saw more than a few of these horned lizards.

Walnut Creek via AZT Walnut Canyon in Flagstaff, Arizona

Maybe it’s because we are only 40 miles (64km) east of yesterday’s trail (except that was in the Kaibab National Forest and today, we are in the Coconino National Forest), but things look quite similar.

Walnut Creek via AZT Walnut Canyon in Flagstaff, Arizona

So, I will have to find what’s different.

Caroline Wise at the Walnut Creek via AZT Walnut Canyon Trail in Flagstaff, Arizona

Hmmm, she seems about the same as not always, but certainly of recent.

Walnut Creek via AZT Walnut Canyon in Flagstaff, Arizona

Okay, narrow cliffside trail using switchbacks to descend into a canyon; this is different.

Walnut Creek via AZT Walnut Canyon in Flagstaff, Arizona

Oh, a giant swallowtail butterfly; we didn’t see any of those yesterday.

Walnut Creek via AZT Walnut Canyon in Flagstaff, Arizona

After hiking to a low point on the trail, we started climbing again, and while there were plenty of other photos of the trail that probably warranted sharing, we still have more than a dozen images that I’m posting below about the second adventure we’ll be enjoying today.

Walnut Creek via AZT Walnut Canyon in Flagstaff, Arizona

The trail we are on is well-marked and well-defined, likely due to the fact mountain bikers enjoy the same path. I give it to those on bicycles out here as there are some spots where their vantage point so high above my own view triggers a good amount of respect in me for how close they are to some precarious edges.

Caroline Wise at the Walnut Creek via AZT Walnut Canyon Trail in Flagstaff, Arizona

There’s not a particularly great clearing at the end of the trail for a view into the canyon…

…the best we can do is grab a view here and there through the trees.

Walnut Creek via AZT Walnut Canyon in Flagstaff, Arizona

Caroline was admiring these flowers and so at a moment, I hoped she hadn’t noticed I took this photo for her. The plant is known as purshia but is also sometimes called bitterbrush or cliffrose.

Walnut Creek via AZT Walnut Canyon in Flagstaff, Arizona

This trail is not a loop; it is an out-and-back, and so on the way we came, we return.

Walnut Creek via AZT Walnut Canyon in Flagstaff, Arizona

When we left Williams this morning, the weather forecast predicted a 15% chance of rain starting around 5:00 this afternoon, but here we are, approaching noon, and the dark clouds carrying the rumble of thunder are just behind us, spurring us along.

Walnut Canyon National Monument in Flagstaff, Arizona

Just as quickly as the threat of rain came up, it passed, and after returning to the car, we drove into the National Monument itself and found ourselves on the short 1-mile Island Trail.

Walnut Canyon National Monument in Flagstaff, Arizona

Apparently, it’s been close to 20 years since we were last here at Walnut Canyon National Monument, though as I continue working through our old photos, I have the feeling I might stumble into a directory that documents a visit up this way since then, but who knows?

Walnut Canyon National Monument in Flagstaff, Arizona

The descent to the Island Trail is 185 feet or 17 stories, but listening to those climbing the stairs, you’d think they were trudging their way out of the Grand Canyon. I know I’m fat, old, and highly opinionated, but just how out of shape are these people bragging about how tough the trail is and that they hope we have plenty of water (we had left it in the car)? Not that I would advocate that any of these other visitors do the same, but Caroline and I know where we are, and we had decided to suck down nearly a liter each before we left the car, so we feel well prepared for a short hour-long hike.

Walnut Canyon National Monument in Flagstaff, Arizona

This afternoon has us walking in the shadows of the Sinagua people. Sin is Spanish for “without,” and agua means “water.” After living in these alcoves for about 125 years, they left. We are fortunate to have the ruins that still exist here as, according to one of the placards along the trail, early visitors were not discouraged from taking souvenirs, and so in their efforts to discover what they could, some of the dwellings were disassembled and pillaged while cliffsides were dynamited in the same effort.

Walnut Canyon National Monument in Flagstaff, Arizona

Well, no crying over that spilled milk as it was a little over 100 years ago after visitors out west were busy destroying these old dwellings that Walnut Canyon was first declared a national monument, and then in 1934, the National Park Service brought these lands into their care to try stemming our carelessness. Now consider something: my paternal grandfather would have been two years old when Walnut Canyon became a national monument, and it was only 88 years ago when it started receiving proper protection; he would have been 17 by then and could have been one of the collectors/marauders. Think about it; it’s not all that long ago, and then consider our present bias that suggests that somehow we could never be that culturally oblivious, and yet, look at where we are regarding the mediocrity we are wallowing in and the abundance of stupidity we hold dear.

Walnut Canyon National Monument in Flagstaff, Arizona

The struggles of people who lived in this canyon likely had to do with real issues such as the availability of food, water, and aggressors who might want their homes and compare that to our whining about gas prices, the personalities of feeble leaders on both sides and our inability to demand any responsibility of people exercising their right to be as stupid as they want to be, including ourselves.

Walnut Canyon National Monument in Flagstaff, Arizona

Damn, I’m ranting again. Calm down, John; take some deep breaths and try to hear the faint echoes of people living in this canyon 1,000 years ago. Honor those who built this and called places like this home instead of ransacking everything in sight, adding false value to people’s perception of wealth. I really seem to be stuck on channel rant.

Walnut Canyon National Monument in Flagstaff, Arizona

The parking lot was nearly full; there were people everywhere. From the Island Trail, we heard the voices of kids and adults, and then, in a moment, everyone disappeared and went silent. I refuse to believe there was a sudden flash of maturity and respect for others of those out here with us today, so it could only be that the ancient souls of the Sinagua people felt our need to connect with their ancestral village and pushed the irreverence to the edges where they wouldn’t intrude upon us. Yep, that’s more likely than conscious decisions by oafish dolts with their half-wit families playing that they’re at Disneyland.

Walnut Canyon National Monument in Flagstaff, Arizona

As I said, everyone else disappeared, and for a good while, this was all ours to take in.

Walnut Canyon National Monument in Flagstaff, Arizona

These 275 million-year-old petrified sand dunes from what was once a desert reflect a cross-bedded appearance due to the dominant direction of the winds and how they changed over time. Above this Coconino Sandstone is a layer of the softer Toroweap Formation (shales from a calm sea), which allowed the Sinagua to build their home below the much harder Kaibab Limestone that acted as the natural roofs to their dwellings. A genius relationship where geology played a big role in offering shelter. By the way, these three layers are the top three layers at the South Rim of the Grand Canyon, too.

Walnut Canyon National Monument in Flagstaff, Arizona

Carbon from fires within these dwellings still exists on some of the walls.

Caroline Wise at Walnut Canyon National Monument in Flagstaff, Arizona

Yep, we are still alone down here, though we can hear voices from around the corner.

Walnut Canyon National Monument in Flagstaff, Arizona

Moving toward the exit.

Walnut Canyon National Monument in Flagstaff, Arizona

Look closely; there are eight people on the trail back up the cliffside, and to the left top, you can see the roof of the visitors center.

Walnut Canyon National Monument in Flagstaff, Arizona

Of the over 80 dwellings in Walnut Canyon, we are lucky if we can spot all 25 that are visible from the trail.

Walnut Canyon National Monument in Flagstaff, Arizona

When we reach the car, after a quick visit to an old pueblo and pithouse, we are approaching 10 miles of hiking for the day, and we are hungry. I have a hankering for a patty melt, and so we Google that. The results don’t feel trustworthy, but it’s all we have, so we head to the place with a 4.9-star rating and hope for the best. Over on old Route 66 is this small place called Proper Meats + Provisions; good luck finding parking, but if you do, you are in for an amazing surprise. Today, we had the greatest patty melts of our lives; they were that good. Time for a coffee and the two-hour drive home.

12-Mile Hike – Williams, Arizona

Caroline Wise and John Wise at the Sycamore Rim Trailhead in Williams, Arizona

This feels like a strange admission, but Caroline and I have never gone on a 12-mile hike before. We’ve walked that distance plenty of times in New York, Washington D.C., Budapest, Frankfurt, and some other places, but we’ve not intentionally chosen a moderately difficult trail up at 7,000 feet of elevation before. Just last night, we had struck this trail off the itinerary due to a prediction for rain and thunderstorms, but by this morning, it looked like that risk had passed. So, a few miles up the road and then 18 miles down a dirt road, we made our way to the Sycamore Rim Trailhead.

Sycamore Rim Trail in Williams, Arizona

First off, my apologies for the 39 photos that accompany this post, but after us walking 12 miles and me so busy out here snapping photos, this is exactly what you should have expected. As a matter of fact, my first pass on prepping images offered up 63 potential visuals I might have liked to share, but considering my obsession with writing a little something to each image, that’s just absurd, so I pared 24 photos that will never be posted here.

Sycamore Rim Trail in Williams, Arizona

What is the sense of excitement that arrives with heading down a new trail? We’ll not discover a new place, species of plant or animal, or treasure aside from all of those things, metaphorically gracing our eyes and ears with an experience that will feed our desire for another new trail in the days and weeks ahead.

Sycamore Rim Trail in Williams, Arizona

Water, snacks, binoculars, a camera, and sunscreen are the things that travel with us. We don’t carry a gun or bear spray or fear that we’ll need those things; maybe we are too optimistic or naive.

Sycamore Rim Trail in Williams, Arizona

Out of our curiosity, we are possibly prone to being somewhat pollyannish, but I, for one, cannot help thinking, live by the sword, die by the sword. If we remain considerate of the risks, understand we should always make enough sound to ward off predatory animals, and consider the real likelihood of an armed aggressor having made the effort to look for victims in a remote location where finding someone is not a certainty, then I tend to want to believe that we’ll be okay.

Sycamore Rim Trail in Williams, Arizona

Instead, we focus on the journey and the surprising things we’ll see, even when those things are not exactly new but iterations of a theme. Come to think about it, much in life is about iterations of things where, hopefully, the best parts never grow old and boring. To that end, what is our responsibility to assign values to what is good and what is likely destructive? How can we begin understanding those relationships of good and bad when knowledge is ever-evolving, mutable, and influenced by culture?

Sycamore Rim Trail in Williams, Arizona

Take this Gambel oak leaf, for example; I find it important due to its role in the health of a forest for the biodiversity and aesthetics it imparts on my journey, while none of those attributes can be assigned to a television. Being outdoors in the world of wild nature, I find a kind of internal reset button where my brain is washed clean of the repetition of fixed imagery that greets me on a daily basis while surviving in a city. As the forest breathes, my mind takes in a fresh inhalation of life-sustaining nature that goes beyond entertainment and connects me to the primordial.

Sycamore Rim Trail in Williams, Arizona

Staring into the distance over a meadow at a mountain, into a canyon, or over the shimmering silver sea, I’m looking beyond what is easily grasped. My modern urban life only needs to be afforded so I can collect the self-contained packets of existence that push aside the mundane, constant repetition of living in the city. We seem to surrender ourselves to a kind of prison where our need for the novel is replaced by an addiction to the familiar.

Sycamore Rim Trail in Williams, Arizona

For those not crushed under the relentless pressure of conformity, they trudge forward in search of discovering everything. Novelty arrives when studying something new about elliptical curves, inexplicably large 3.3 billion light-year wide giant arcs that risk challenging our understanding of the universe, learning about tessellation in computational design, or any multitude of complex subjects or the fineries of long mastered crafts that extend our own personal knowledge and skill set. Novelty is the key to prying open the calcified mind, but it’s also dangerous if too many seek out its intoxication.

Sycamore Rim Trail in Williams, Arizona

Unleash curiosity, satisfy it with the psychedelic inebriation found in discovery, and then challenge it incessantly with access to the vibrant library of human knowledge and the interpretation of nature and culture, and you may never be able to contain the freedom of the individual who must now spend their days seeking.

Caroline Wise on the Sycamore Rim Trail in Williams, Arizona

We are not nerds; that’s a pejorative term to marginalize the radically curious in order to diminish their potential impact on the “normals.” Patriots, fans, devotees, and even junkies are preferable descriptors compared to those that might inspire others to venture out on a different path. Calling oneself a member of one of these groups proves that the adherent belongs to something greater. One skull in this photo is of a living and aware creature, while the other is a now-dead, forgotten, faceless animal that will never be known. The same goes for patriots, fans, devotees, and junkies; they are part of a dying herd that will fall to the side, never to have been anything more than an anonymous creature. Those who rise to inspire the patriot, draw in the fan, or bring the devotee to the flock will better know freedom and curiosity as they exploit the herd to dedicate themselves to affording the person at the top a kind of status that their followers live vicariously through instead of grabbing life by the horns for their own selfish realization.

Sycamore Rim Trail in Williams, Arizona

I know that none of this is new, not here on my blog, not in philosophy, not in our works of fiction, so why then does the majority of humanity relinquish their own quest for an abundance of life as though they feared that the watering hole of knowledge and experience would be drained prior to their ability to arrive with a thirst of curiosity?

Sycamore Rim Trail in Williams, Arizona

Like music that plays out in all directions for those present to partake in its magical sounds, the tools for feeding our minds are infinitely more numerous than all the lilies in this pond and all the other ponds in this forest. Yet, too often, we choose to dull the spectacular nature of potential that could be found within each of us by affording greater value to a vast number of people around us, all being able to simultaneously share how we each gazed upon the exact same lily pad while missing the pond, insects, boulders, mountains, and forest wherein the lily pad lives. This is what we do with memes, television, talk about the weather, sports, political figures, and celebrity.

Sycamore Rim Trail in Williams, Arizona

For me, the weather is apparent by what’s in front of me and overhead; my ache for celebrity is satisfied looking into my wife’s eyes. Television needn’t be set right here in these rocks, so I might have a path I can follow if I’m to arrive at the end of the show/trail. My inner politician lives in my reasoning of what’s personally important to me instead of relying on outside personalities to tell me on a daily basis what’s important to them.

Sycamore Rim Trail in Williams, Arizona

My sad reality is that the chasm between self-awareness, self-determination, and curiosity with the other side where cultural suicide, banality, war, and total submission is a distance I cannot bridge no matter the thousands of words I try to coerce into telling a story I think might strike the eyes and ears of those I never reach. Instead, here I am on that edge, and everything I want and need is here for the taking. You see no one else competing with Caroline and me for this experience because it’s only valuable to the tiniest minority of those who not only venture out but venture deep within.

Sycamore Rim Trail in Williams, Arizona

I had to research this next bit, but I’d be willing to wager that at least in the United States, many people know who Lena Headey is and her character Queen Cersei as played on the TV series Game of Thrones. I didn’t know her or her role prior to looking up who was the most widely known character on that show, and while millions, if not tens of millions, know the depiction and whatever controversy that surrounded this fictional person, I am able to lay claim that I’m the only human being in the existence of our species to ever look upon this particular flower known as Erigeron a.k.a., Fleabane in this forest on this day. Does this make me better than others? Absolutely not. I’m well aware that I’m as anonymous as any particular leaf or blade of grass from the entirety of the 1.8 million acres (7,300 square kilometers) that comprise the Kaibab National Forest in which we are hiking today.

Sycamore Rim Trail in Williams, Arizona

But for ourselves, we are the Spirit of Ecstasy hood ornament on a Rolls Royce, gliding through these woods with only the two of us here to appreciate the rarity of such an experience. This, though, is a disservice to the idea of trying to establish some level of individuality when I equate our existence to an emblem that others can relate to because, collectively, our sense of brand awareness is greater than our real knowledge of individuality.

Sycamore Rim Trail in Williams, Arizona

My foundation is not pop culture; it is not Mad Magazine or TikTok videos. I’ve not constructed my underpinnings on the Marvel Universe, Mixed Martial Arts, or the Los Angeles Lakers. My base is not a syrupy plateau of smiles, fake superlatives, and the affirmation of likes. What underlies my being is the deep desire for knowledge and love; it is a lot of isolation because the core of a person, like that of the earth, does not reveal itself easily. It is the shared histories of ancient cultures that allow me to stand atop the precipice of what comes next. The certainty that you’ll survive the next step is not guaranteed, but what lies in the unknown, once discovered, has a greater chance of becoming a part of you than passively having seen things that leave bits of jingles, slogans, or scenes in your memories. These things have nothing to do with you aside from the collective experience that affirms that you, too, are just like your neighbor.

Sycamore Rim Trail in Williams, Arizona

Now, please don’t get it in your head that, while Caroline and I stroll through these environs, I’m knee-deep in the immersion of profound philosophy because, on the contrary, I’m lost in the spectacle of nature. I strain to hear things near and far, to see the smallest movements among the tree branches above my head and between the leaves below my feet. My mind has been cleared of expectation, song, and critical action. I’m looking for an openness that will allow every impression to find a place in the quiet of solitude instead of the chaos of criticism.

Sycamore Rim Trail in Williams, Arizona

But when I return to Phoenix, and I’m looking back at the images and impressions I took from our excursion, I think about what the real personal gain was of being in the out and what was either brought back or reinforced. It is at this juncture between experience and memories that I’m trying to capture the essence of something, an intrinsic delight or insight, and once I attach some significance to what the journey was, I’ll be even more inclined to seek out similar moments which offer so many things to reflect upon.

Sycamore Rim Trail in Williams, Arizona

The second time around, nothing is the same as it was before; it becomes a new place on a new day, with different weather and different surroundings. The novelty that inspired such elation on a previous adventure might seep in, but with its unique attributes, it will propel these reminiscings into a higher domain. The rainbow fringe on the clouds will take on new hues, the pattern of the trees will offer a different dance, and the horizon will drag us into the delight found in the most wonderful intimacy found in first encounters.

Sycamore Rim Trail in Williams, Arizona

More hillside, more miles, trees, and more trees, clouds streaming by replaced by other clouds changing shape and casting different shadows. You cannot move an inch (2.54cm) without stepping into the future, into beauty, into a version of yourself you were not prior to going forward. Of course, you can choose not to be here, not there, not anywhere. Just stay at home, go to work, and fall into the routine that is set to eternal repeat and you will limit your chances of having to encounter change.

Sycamore Rim Trail in Williams, Arizona

We must shed our skin to grow, a tree must fall to make space for new plants to take hold in the forest, and good and bad weather must trade places so the earth remembers that extremes occur in all things, forcing us to adapt. So why are the angriest among us so averse to change? They burned when the fires of change swept through and claimed their potential to adapt. They failed to stay ahead of the carnage of the past, believing that the way things were yesterday was perfect and, therefore, all they needed to do was hold their ground and demand that the wind stop blowing, the water stop flowing, and the fire extinguishes itself. But we all know that this isn’t reasonable, so why do we allow them to air their grievances on platforms and pedestals that in some way validate their death wishes? You didn’t move when the fires arrived, and now you must return to the earth that gave rise to your moment under the sun; it’s that or sit on the sidelines and recognize that we have ourselves to blame when our obstinance derailed our chances to move with the winds that clear the view ahead.

Sycamore Rim Trail in Williams, Arizona

I find irony in the idea that maybe my writing is repetitious, with nearly the same thing repeated in a dozen different ways, but effectively (ineffectively?) I never really alter or add anything new to the story. As I look over the trees into the canyon with the clouds overhead, I see a scene that contains all the parts of a visual story I’ve seen time and again. I can acknowledge that the diversity in trees and clouds might have a conformity that doesn’t really differ all that much on a day-to-day basis, and yet each configuration I peer at from a vantage point to which my car or legs have brought me delights me all over again. And so when I grasp at the words that seep out of my head and into my fingers, I can quite easily see the same old 26 letters sequenced into familiar words I’ve laid down time and again, and yet I hope that the forest of their configuration and the light of the circumstances in which they are viewed will bring a special nuance only available to the reader who happens to glimpse them at a specific moment where their appearance will ripple in delight within the person standing before them.

Sycamore Rim Trail in Williams, Arizona

Repetition is all around us; it’s in the most beautiful flowers, it’s all over this agave, and, of course, it’s heard in our favorite pieces of music. This repetition reinforces familiarity with those things that hold special aesthetic value for us. We develop an affinity for experiencing them again and again. This is a double-edged sword because words and phrases that are loaded with poison and hate and repeated again and again until they resonate with us can find a value in their repetition that doesn’t allow the listener to escape their toxic influence. So while an agave can be found to be beautiful, there is also a dangerous element to be experienced in the needle-sharp spike, a kind of beauty and the beast plant. Joking aside, the words we play on repeat, the mantras we choose to cultivate, these phrases and ideas condition our view of the world, and thanks to those hungry to capitalize on the vulnerability of the dejected, a part of our population is given over to the violence of mind and body like this agave. They develop defensive mechanisms that ensure others stay away.

Sycamore Rim Trail in Williams, Arizona

Just as I need to bring the lens up to my eye, I must find a similar magnifying device to look within the container of words called my head in search of a diversity of options to help explain what I believe I’ve taken in. You see, nobody has ever introduced me to these plants before, and if it weren’t for this curiosity to see what I’ve not seen before, I too might be caught up with the endless repeats and rhetorical bullshit that have spoonfed the adult-sized people of childish minds that grow angrier, not aware that this hostility is a reflection of their disappointment with themselves for being stuck and unaware of their predicament aside from believing the nonsense planted in their once fertile heads.

Sycamore Rim Trail in Williams, Arizona

If only it were so simple to follow the path ahead to leave the woods. This is true for our adventure out in nature but certainly not valid for the person imprisoned in the cave of their own ignorance. They must first understand the darkness in which they exist and then discover a way through the forest of disbelief and uncertainty. How sad it is that so many of our fellow human beings are, in effect, trapped in biases, fears, jingoistic programming, nationalism, extremist religious dogmas, and the deafening echo chamber they’ve spent much of their lives digging deeper into.

Sycamore Rim Trail in Williams, Arizona

Sure, sunlight cleanses the way forward, but are you inside or outside of your head? Are you at all desirous of seeing a way out of the morass or, like for a pig in a poke, what a thing really is is of no concern so long as your belief tells you that the thing is exactly what you know it to be?

Sycamore Rim Trail in Williams, Arizona

Why do I keep hammering on this subject when the eyes and ears of those I want to reach are sealed shut with minds solidified like these cliffside rocks that are impervious to me screaming at them with the hopes of watching them crumble? Because, like the perennial flower that lives in this forest, I will continue my repetitious existence of repeating myself until one day, the right person happens to be on hand to witness the most perfect bloom captured in the written word, forcing them to stop on their trail to snap a photo and take note.

Sycamore Rim Trail in Williams, Arizona

Yep, that’s me, metaphorically speaking. I’m lichen attached to the rock, leeching minerals from a host. Except in my case, my type of lichen existence is feeding on culture and history. While there is but one human species, there are between 18,000 and 1.5 million species of lichen, so while my words might often appear to be similar to others, you can trust that the hue and pattern of what you think you are seeing are never the same twice.

Sycamore Rim Trail in Williams, Arizona

Now here I am, not at the end of the trail but near the end of what I want to say regarding those things I’ve shared above. The time spent on this post gathers moss, and I need to move on.

Sycamore Rim Trail in Williams, Arizona

I should blame my abrupt desire to exit on the thunderstorm that was closing in on us, but that would be silly as here I am days after the events of this particular Saturday took place, and there is no impending storm on the horizon that would have me move along. But on Saturday afternoon, we were out hiking the Sycamore Canyon Rim and growing tired; our worn feet put us in overdrive, hoping to miss a downpour. It is, after all, monsoon season.

Caroline Wise on the Sycamore Rim Trail in Williams, Arizona

Well, if it’s so important to move along, why was there time for more photos? It’s not every day we venture out on 12-mile hikes, especially considering our advanced ages. Okay, my advanced age of mere months before my 60th birthday. Hmmm, Caroline will probably correct me with this stab at drawing drama into this post so late and remind me that it’s nine months until my 60th, which is the time required to gestate an entire tiny human being.

Sycamore Rim Trail in Williams, Arizona

Thunder grew louder and louder as our feet moved faster and faster, and the dark clouds piled up.

Sycamore Rim Trail in Williams, Arizona

Racing to the end of the trail, to the end of this post, I want to take a detour, a shortcut to something else, anything else, so maybe veering into absurdity and talking of dinosaurs or teleporting to the parking lot might be a humorous approach to being catapulted out of here? But no, that would be too ham-fisted. Oh, was this so transparent that effectively, I did just what I said I shouldn’t do, which has now opened the opportunity to jump to the next image?

Sycamore Rim Trail in Williams, Arizona

Poor weather actually turned part of this hike into a blessing in that the threat of being drenched had us moving faster than we would have otherwise, while the cloud cover shielded us from the worst part of the afternoon sun. Then again, the impact of a bright sun within a canyon allows for a greater appreciation of the details that are muted in the shadows, hence the need to pick out nearby perspectives that allow for a different focus on things that are near instead of broad views that seem to carry more impact.

Sycamore Rim Trail in Williams, Arizona

We already felt our first raindrops when we reached the lily ponds along this part of the loop trail, and so, without fanfare, I snapped off a half-assed view with a tree in the middle of it because, in my rushing mind, some lily pond was better than none.

Sycamore Rim Trail in Williams, Arizona

A strange thing happened on the way to the meadow; we were quickly approaching the ruins of an old wood mill when the rain started coming down hard. I shoved my camera into a plastic bag (the only “rain gear” we had brought along), buried my chin into my chest, adjusted my hat, and got ready to be drenched less than a mile to the car. So I blurted out a loud request for the rain to please wait and ask Caroline about this; it stopped raining! [It did indeed  ^_^]

Sycamore Rim Trail in Williams, Arizona

Over 26,000 steps were had, not on an easy nor a hard trail, but a moderately difficult trail up here at 7,000 feet above the sea and now we can sit down for the first time since we started this hike at 9:30 this morning.

Alltrails map and details of our hike

As you can see from the map and stats from AllTrails, we averaged 27 minutes per mile, had over 2,300 feet (700 meters) of elevation change, and took a total of 6.5 hours to complete our hike. FYI, this is our favorite new app.

Entertainment at Black Barts Steakhouse in Flagstaff, Arizona

Getting over to Flagstaff was easy enough, even with a 30-minute construction delay, but getting out of the car to walk a short distance to the entry of Black Barts Steakhouse was an incredible chore. Not so much due to the rain that was coming down relatively hard now, but our legs had seized up and didn’t seem to want to carry us further. For those of you who know of my food snobbery and might know of this restaurant, do not ask why; it’s one of those institutions that have been up here forever and, as a poor testament to the people I’ve known over the years, came highly recommended. Well, I’ve obviously known more fools than gourmets, as the price/quality ratio was way out of whack. Then again, the better-than-karaoke quality of the servers serenading us diners was right on. The peculiar exclamation point on the day only made everything better, and for those of you who might have a low opinion of our dining choice, and rightfully so, you should have seen our room at the Rodeway Inn back in Williams; it too cannot be recommended. No matter the groaning that goes along with some of our decisions, this was just a terrifically wonderful day that no other July 23rd, 2022, will ever be able to compare to.

The Long Way Up – Trip 14

Frog Rock near Congress, Arizona

Forty-eight hours ago, we had nothing fixed in stone about where we might go. Penciled in was the idea we might head into Los Angeles, but with our heat wave here in the Southwest, that didn’t sound like an appealing plan. With Caroline asking about doing something, I quickly looked at our options, but the prices for lodging in Greer and Pinetop/Lakeside were reflective of the attraction of desert dwellers getting away to those cooler parts of the state and thus were struck from the list of possibilities. Mount Lemon down in Tucson at 9,171 feet (2,795 meters) of coolness above the heat saw all lodging sold out throughout the next weeks, if not months.

Flagstaff wasn’t capturing my imagination, but just then, west of that mountain town, Williams caught my eye. It’s been ten years since Jutta, Caroline, and I one winter morning, hopped aboard the train that runs to the doorstep of the Grand Canyon South Rim north of here. Other than that overnight and one back in the year 2000, when Caroline had blue hair, and we made our very first train journey to the Canyon, we’ve not really given any time to explore the area, so we decided we’d rectify that.

With our cheap room at the Rodeway Inn booked (I can’t believe I have to say that it’s only $80 a night when that was luxury lodging of last resort for us 20 years ago), I went to work on finding us some hiking trails. Then, just this morning, on our walk, I was wondering if Caroline had a junior ranger badge from nearby Walnut Canyon National Monument, and she thought she didn’t. Looking up Walnut Canyon in the long list of 2,907 published blog posts, it would appear that it’s been about 20 years since last we visited, but maybe I missed publishing something about a subsequent visit; who knows? As it’s only about 40 miles east of Williams, I guessed that we’d pay it a visit.

Overlook of Congress, Arizona

Williams is only about 2.5 hours north of us, and that’s if we take the less-than-scenic route of driving up Interstate 17, which we’ve been doing a lot this year, so I had to mix things up. Why not add an hour to the drive time and take us out over Congress (the Frog Stone up top and this overlook are nearby), Yarnell, Skull Valley, Iron Springs, Paulden, and Ash Fork? Hey, that’s a great idea, and it’s a lot easier to stop for photos of the blistering desert before heading into the higher elevations.

It being Friday, Caroline finished her day with a quick happy hour in the form of a tasty Manhattan handcrafted by the boss. Out by 3:30, we were underway, and since I had already stopped for coffee, we had nothing to do but drive. But we didn’t get very far as in Wickenburg; I pulled into the old Tastee Freeze we’ve been stopping at for years so Caroline could get a small cone dipped in chocolate. Trying to be good about my diet, I had a single bite, and that was that.

Caroline Wise at the Granite Mountain Hotshots Memorial State Park near Yarnell, Arizona

After passing through the small town of Congress but before Yarnell, we detoured to check out the Granite Mountain Hotshots Memorial State Park. It turns out that the park is actually a trail with memorial plaques along the first 2.5 miles that share a small story about each of the 19 firefighters who perished out here a few years ago. An additional mile of the trail takes visitors to the fatality site. It’s late, and it’s hot, so we pencil into our brains that we’d like to return around October for the 7-mile roundtrip hike.

Skull Valley, Arizona

Skull Valley is the tiniest little crossroads, and normally, I think I would have photographed the small market, but it’s looking shabby these days. The area out here between Yarnell and Prescott is beautiful, and most of it is used as ranchland, with a guy named Rex Maughan seeming to own nearly everything. Well, Maughan ranches include 512,000 acres of land or 800 square miles of Arizona (2,071 square kilometers). For scale, these ranches add up to being about eight times larger than Paris, France, or only slightly smaller than the entire country of Luxembourg.

Sunset south of Ash Fork, Arizona

Not a lot of sights, really but this sure was better than the interstate we’ve driven so often. Sunset was just south of Ash Fork, about 45 minutes from Williams where we’ll be spending the weekend.

Petroglyphs to Phoenix

Left Santa Fe early but late enough to allow us another opportunity to have breakfast over at the Pantry Restaurant. With that out of the way, we pointed the car toward Albuquerque. We had a mission that had us dropping in on the Petroglyph National Monument for the experience that precedes qualifying for yet another junior ranger badge.

With ample signage warning visitors not to leave ANYTHING visible in their cars at the Rinconada trailhead parking lot, we used this admonishment to go someplace else. We opted for a trail that had us backtracking a bit north to Piedras Marcadas Canyon. I didn’t have a good feeling about our hike starting off under these circumstances as I couldn’t help but think that maybe Albuquerque had started modeling itself after the TV series Breaking Bad. Not that I know a lot about that show, but I do know that gangsterism, meth, mayhem, and more meth were the central themes, using Albuquerque as its location.

Obviously, we’re walking the Piedras Marcadas Canyon trail by now, collecting petroglyphs in the camera.

Within the Petroglyph National Monument, there are an estimated 25,000 etchings that have been carved into the patina of the rocks stretching over the 12 square miles the National Park Service protects.

The oldest petroglyphs are estimated to be over 4,000 years old, but I’m guessing this one of a boy riding a snail is not one of those, though the early rendition of the Flying Spaghetti Monster to the left could predate Jesus.

This beautiful petroglyph I’m interpreting as, “Oh my god, it’s summer and there isn’t a tree anywhere to find shade under.”

From our perspective on a fenced trail, there are multiple dozens of petroglyphs etched into the rocks right in front of us. This has me wondering how many are out of view because what are the chances that consideration was made by early inhabitants to ensure their messaging would be visible to those that passed below?

The trail through here, while it’s been here a long time, wasn’t always so well defined, as evidenced by the worn side paths that are still growing over. I’m guessing that some decades ago, people were basically allowed to scramble over the boulders to see what they could see.

Seventy years ago, visitors didn’t understand the value of these sites and didn’t think anything about walking on fragile areas of Yellowstone, breaking off a chunk of stalagmite at Carlsbad Caverns, or crawling on the walls of an old pueblo. Today, it feels as though there is a wanton desire to destroy for the sake of destruction and leaving your own personal mark on something that cannot be repaired. Just as we learned that areas of Bandelier that were once visitable and likely listed in our old park brochure are no longer on maps in order to dissuade others from finding and harming these historic sites, it makes me wonder how long we’ll have access to seeing these petroglyphs with our own eyes.

Our short 2-mile hike took us about 90 minutes of walking through sand that only grew progressively warmer as we went along. Good thing Caroline had a gallon of water on her back. Time to return to the visitor center for you know what.

Yep, swearing in as a fully-fledged Junior Ranger at Petroglyph National Monument in Albuquerque, New Mexico. It’s still too early in the morning to go find Sadie’s for some of their regional eats, so we’ll get on the road as there are still 420 miles ahead of us on our way home.

This long, straight road ahead takes us to Arizona (unless we detour).

Of course, we had to detour; we are John and Caroline, and lingering is part of who we are. Taking Interstate 40 to Interstate 17 for the fastest straightest shot home sounded so incredibly boring that anyone should know that we’d never take that route. So, in Grants, we left the freeway to travel back down through El Malpais National Monument just as we did back on May 15, two months earlier.

Sixty days ago, in order to save time for the other things we wanted to do out here, we skipped the Sandstone Bluffs Overlook, but not today.

Caroline went one direction, the way of the daredevil unafraid of heights, while I took the more terrestrial path.

While she was up there somewhere on the right, I made this my viewpoint.

Until we converged again to take off for another view from the bluffs.

Maybe this looks somewhat familiar from our trip last month.

It should have, as we are right back out here at La Ventana Arch, but the lighting feels better.

Right up atop this cliffside is the Narrows Trail we’d love to revisit already, but time won’t allow it today.

Well, let’s be serious, time would allow it if I’d not set my mind on eating at Guayo’s El Rey in Miami, Arizona, meaning we would have to reach that small town before it grows too late. As it turned out, we had to go to Guayo’s on the Trail in Globe as the unreliable Google, while knowing the existence of these businesses, didn’t know that the Miami location was closed for vacation until the 22nd. Good thing I called ahead due to my growing mistrust of anything shared by Google.

For the rest of our drive home, we’d hit rain here and there, often quite heavy. While the cloud cover makes for somewhat dull landscapes regarding color and brightness, it sure does have the potential to lend drama to a sky.

What’s worse than driving mountain and canyon roads during heavy rain here in Arizona? Driving on any roads in the rain anywhere in this state.

Dinner at Guayo’s on the Trail was not at all what I was looking for and now has me wondering if the two Guayos are even related. One thing is certain: I’ll never visit the Globe location again. As you can tell from the sky over Picketpost Mountain in Superior, the rains have stayed behind while we return to the hot, dry desert of Phoenix.

Trip 13 Going to New Mexico

Superstition Mountains as seen from north of Fountain Hills, Arizona

It’s not even been 72 hours since we returned from our 4th of July jaunt to Utah, and we are already bouncing right back out, this time to Santa Fe, New Mexico. Right now, it’s only 8:00 in the morning, and I pulled into the coffee shop to race through prepping a few more photos from last weekend and jot down the beginning of another departure. At the moment, I don’t have a firm idea of what time we’ll be leaving Phoenix as Caroline has to finish her work day, but I’d guess that we’ll hit the road somewhere between 3:00 and 5:00. Our plan has us driving to Gallup, New Mexico, this afternoon, but if we can go further, that’d be terrific. So, with this first note of the day in the bag, it’s time to turn my attention to completing a few more photos before making my way home to pack.

Al & Diane's Red Onion Lounge in Heber-Overgaard, Arizona

Caroline was ready at 3:00 p.m., but this time, I was running behind because I had the bright idea at 2:15 to take advantage of a sale that Verizon had just sent to me. I had less than 72 hours to respond to an $800 discount on a new Samsung S22 Ultra phone upgrade. Normally, I’d be getting $35 in trade for my old S9+ (I know this because I checked a month ago), so I went through the motions, and the new phone should be in Monday’s mail.

With that business out of the way, I picked up the wife, and at 3:30, we made our way to Starbucks in Fountain Hills and then turned on the BeeLine highway towards Payson. Deja vu was in effect as we were on the exact same route, only in reverse, that we just drove on Monday. It was already 6:00 p.m. when I flipped the blinker to turn north on Highway 277, in the direction of Holbrook, when I blurted out that we should pull a quick U-turn and have dinner at this place we’ve often passed but never had stopped. With low expectations, we did just that.

Caroline Wise at Al & Diane's Red Onion Lounge in Heber-Overgaard, Arizona

Al & Diane’s Red Onion Lounge in Heber-Overgaard was our dinner stop. This iconic and “Famous” roadside joint has been here forever and was exactly what we expected: a slightly different version of our favorite old haunt in Phoenix that was once known as Wagon Yard. With the evening’s vittles out of the way, we could continue on into the late day.

Highway 277 between Holbrook and Heber, Arizona

I thought we might make it to Grants, New Mexico, tonight, but with 60 miles left, we opted for our original destination of Gallup, New Mexico. We found a cheap room at EconoLodge for the low-low price of only $59; this was likely the best deal we were going to get. We have a 3-hour drive ahead of us in the morning, meaning we’ll be getting up with the rising sun so we can be on the road by 6:00 a.m.

Freedom and Independence on the 4th of July

Independence Day out in a space that allows an extraordinary amount of freedom and independence to be had; that’s where we are. Nothing consumed, not a lot desired, and very little purchased is how we travel into this day, which in some way mirrors our lives at home. We comfortably find ourselves in a vast landscape, trying to interpret a horizon without easy markers or signs to guide us into the unfamiliar, and that’s okay.

Is Independence Day still a celebration of our freedom from tyranny or simply the faint recollection of historic events that paved the way for some idealistic notions? Certain declarations and amendments have come to stand in for whatever the thoughts might have been surrounding a collective sense of being free Americans, but are two or three fragments the extent of what independence means? Why do so many find our constitutional declarations ensconced in law to be tenuous at best and in need of constant anxious lament as though at any moment they will be ripped from the clutch of patriots who apparently are the only truly aware Americans? I’m afraid that this nervous energy and a constant refrain that everything America stands for is on the brink of being torn away is a toxic salve bringing infection to a wound exploited by hyperbolic political shysters, modern-day media snake oil salesmen, and pundit quacks who are not expert in anything other than terror.

People stuck in paradigms of the past appear most susceptible to fear and deception that exploits their unenlightened minds. Maybe they are broken and undereducated due to an indoctrination that made them slaves to a jingoistic and overzealous dogma from which they are now unable to break free. How, then, are those people free or independent? They are not; they are like this broken-down, rusting jalopy that is not going anywhere. Put a TV in front of this car, and you are effectively seeing many of my fellow citizens: frozen by gravity, useless, a relic from a past that failed to maintain any kind of momentum that might have allowed them to glide into the present and hopefully the future too.

I should offer up some details regarding this day that actually pertains to our trip from Utah that will take us home to Phoenix, Arizona, today. We woke in Blanding, a small town with a population of just under 3,600 people, and headed south. The sandstone bluff in the second photo is at the edge of the town of Bluff that we visited at the end of May; the car at the Cow Canyon Trading Post is also in Bluff. This wall fragment was at one time either part of a dwelling or maybe a storage area. I spotted it from the road, and it begged us to pay a visit. From here, we traveled toward Montezuma Creek and Aneth on our way to a special crossroads in the middle of nowhere.

Nowhere is where I live my best life, where nothing I own is strewn before or around me. All I can do is look upon the nothingness that embodies everything and has an intrinsic value exceeding the things that might be considered mine. When this wash is running it feeds into the San Juan River, which is the green spot out in the distance of this photo. For countless years, the rains have come and gone and, on occasion, left enough moisture that the streambed carved itself into the landscape. On this particular day, its path is evidenced by the green S curve starting in the foreground. The hand of nature out here has been employing the engineering forces of natural processes to build the most elegant of places that I will ever witness while standing at this particular place on State Route 162 located in San Juan County, Utah. So, now I’ve been everywhere and seen everything where nothing existed until I embued it with all the appreciation and value of someone able to find things meaningful while exploring the freedom of independence to do such things.

We had to stop here in Montezuma Creek, Utah, to admire the artwork of the students at Whitehorse High School who, when not exploring their creativity, are locked in classrooms being indoctrinated into believing that what they are being forced to learn will deliver them from the wretched poverty in which many of their parents exist. The cruel dichotomy here is that these kids are learning just enough to have them either conform or fail and likely relinquish themselves to systems that will exploit their incarceration. Without hope of further real education, they will languish in meager subsistence jobs not far from where they are growing up and never know the freedom of independence that the United States claims is a key part of our cultural DNA. Native Americans, like many minorities that can’t afford participation, are tossed by the wayside of something less than nothing, a place without hope or the ability to interpret what riches they might have if they were seriously knowledgable about truths. These truths are simply the idea that freedom is a state of mind afforded by removing oneself from the struggle of just surviving abject poverty, and this is where real education comes to bear.

I need to make clear here that my focus is not lamenting the situation of the poor, minorities, or other disadvantaged groups; the system is stacked against them, and they do what they can with the little they have. My real complaint is about those who have the means to be free and independent but are simultaneously deeply entrenched in their intellectual stagnation and being the loudest about their fear of what they claim is being stolen from them, which is absolutely nothing.

We cannot contain the ocean, the sun, or the wind, and we are fairly adept at controlling the river, bringing light to darkness, and giving ourselves the ability to move quickly over the surface of the planet, but we are absolute masters of bringing totalitarian enslavement upon the minds of the masses who are terrified to lose their shelter, sustenance, and social standing in a broken community of lonely souls drunk on the desire for out-of-reach riches that never offered real happiness to anyone in the first place. Love is the water that is supposed to flow down the river of life and through our communities, but we’ve created a drought by selling false dreams to people who will likely never know better and must endure the suffering of unfulfilled lives while we who have it all always get more. For us, the river is a deluge that welcomes us to grow more, secret away these precious resources so they may always be there for us; all the while, we pity those who supposedly won’t help themselves as we are oblivious to how systems are stacked against the ill-educated.

Aneth, Utah, is indicative of the disappearance of hope and opportunity, a place where the freedom to survive on ancestral lands is bulldozed by the allure of a fake image of life delivered by TV, the internet, and video games. In the past 20 years, Aneth has seen its population shrink by 139 people, and while that may not sound significant, consider that this means the town went from 598 people down to 459 for a loss of 1 in 4 Anethians. This is obviously a tragic situation for the local Navajo population since a town that is disappearing from the map has to support an elementary school that pays its senior teachers $80,000 a year and is apparently only working to catapult their children to places elsewhere.

With the intrusion of sham dreams of wild success that can be easily had in America’s big cities, the traditions of a community are shattered as fresh transplants crash into the cold reality of life in the uncaring environment of the metropolis. The broken young souls either fall to the wayside or return to the old town, contributing to its decay and their own dissatisfaction. This is not independence or freedom; it is planned disenfranchisement, obsolescence, cultural obliteration, and oppression. Aneth represents just 1 of 110 Navajo communities that are likely in similar predicaments. Now consider that by land area, the Navajo Nation is as large as the Netherlands and Belgium combined, but the GDPs of these two countries add up to almost $1.5 trillion compared to just $12.8 billion of economic activity on the largest Indian reservation in the United States; this is not an accident.

Sure, this is a poor comparison when one thinks that in Belgium and the Netherlands, the combined population is 29 million people strong in contrast to the Navajo Nation’s anemic 173,000 people, but in a country like the United States that has intentionally worked to disadvantage Native Americans, one might think we as a country could do better to honor those who have paid so much by suffering near total annihilation. Stop a moment and think of this: in Texas, 3.3 million people receive state aid, and nearly 2.8 million in Florida do too. Are we really a country of people who love independence and freedom that helps foster healthy communities and citizens, or are we a bunch of gun-loving nutjob individualists afraid of a tyrannical boogeyman created by marginalized megalomaniacs who become wealthy on this dissatisfaction, thus monopolizing another part of people’s vulnerability?

So, let’s all just look out on the horizon and refuse to see what we don’t want to see anyway. We are, after all, free to do exactly just what we want to do, even at the expense of sustaining a thriving nation. At one time, we were a union, not only that, we were trying to form a perfect union in order to establish our nation of the United States. Today, we are millions of individuals oblivious to our real role as neighbors willing to defend each other, help one another, and stand together. But the blue skies of optimism have been clouded over not exclusively by those in power but by all of us, the “We the people” part of all of us, because we are no longer we. This is a country of us and them. So on this 4th of July, which should be a joyous moment recognizing the accomplishments of a great country, we should bow down in respect of a dream that is dissipating like so many thin clouds on a hot day.

But that is not the America Caroline and I choose to live in. Our America is one of dreams and ideals where we’ve carved out just enough and seized the opportunity to find our way into a dream, though I’m not sure it resembles the idea of the bigger American Dream. You see, we are selfish, greedy, and maybe a bit isolated. We are selfish because we no longer buy into needing things like large homes, expensive cars, a vast wardrobe, or the other trappings of conspicuous consumption. We are greedy as we save money, predominately cook at home, set our thermostat higher, and save from not participating with subscriptions to frivolous services. We are isolated due to being avid readers, not owning a television, not playing golf, or rooting for sports franchises of any sort.

We’ve chosen our own path that recognizes our limitations to earn more and more. We’ve seen that those with more of all and nearly everything are rarely living profound and joyful lives. We understand that a chance encounter with someone less fortunate will likely offer us a more meaningful experience than listening to someone feeding us details about some celebrity, indignation regarding a politician of any persuasion, or their latest acquisition they believe enhances their position in the hierarchy of accomplishments.

We stand mostly alone with our ideals carrying dreams from a bygone era that if you ventured out into your country and into yourself, you might find experiential riches that would define you as a real explorer, a real American, a person living a life well lived. We still adhere to these ideas towering overhead as aspirations that are meant to be embraced. Caroline just recently became an American citizen and did so with tears in her eyes as she knows firsthand what is possible, but sadly, it is only because we had to separate ourselves from the masses defined by a lot of nothing, masses who don’t know the real American Dream and are angry that they are living in dystopian nightmares of their own creation.

Just stop a second and look at this: we are living the adage extolled in the Declaration of Independence regarding Life, Liberty, and the pursuit of Happiness. We are free under our current system to find just those things; nobody is trying to take anything from us, but we must be willing to give to ourselves and adapt to a changing world. Our founding fathers never envisioned a day when people would travel at 60 mph over land in air-conditioned vehicles, take photos of exquisite detail, and call ahead to a restaurant in the middle of a desert to verify their hours, but that’s what we do, and all that’s required is to continue changing with the times.

These bags of flour will not make themselves into a cake, bagels, or the Navajo frybread it is likely destined to become. Someone else will have to transform it; the flour will be altered by the addition of other ingredients, be they savory or sweet; the point is that these constituent parts will see their chemistry changed but still won’t be done until they find their way into a transitional form of having been cooked. And though the flour and that which was added will become food, it will then need to be consumed to act as nourishment. Maybe a grandmother made a cake, a dad made his kids pancakes on a Sunday morning, or a husband and wife are making frybread next to the road and loading it with roast mutton for passersby, such as my wife and me. This act of change and preparation is what will sustain those who benefit from the efforts of a community. This parable is what a nation, a people, a country of united souls does for one another, but we’ve lost sight of the basic ingredients right in front of us. Instead, we are pissed off when we must deal with the investment of effort to transform things on our own because the 20-layer cake isn’t being spoon-fed to us when we want it.

Do not be a petulant bulwark against your own motion forward, happiness, or accomplishment. Nothing is really standing in your way besides yourself. Your intransigence to see your way around minor obstacles blinds you and steals your vision to find what is just beyond the rock called self. Caroline and I are not perfect examples of growing beyond limitations, but in these moments of exploring our own freedom and independence, we get to take sight of the astonishing vistas of our vast country and consider how fortunate we are to have broken free of the shackles of unattainable lives of perfection sold by those snake oil salesmen, quacks, charlatans, con artists, and cheaters who have sold far too many Americans nothing but anguish by blaming others for what they are missing.

Nothing has been stolen from you aside from what you gave away. If you look into the window of the TV screen and witness the magic of incredible perfection, maybe you are already selling yourself on self-delusion. The horizon is not painted in gold, but it is embued with riches of wonder if you know how to see what you were never told was valuable. America is the dream; our freedom to venture into ourselves has never been denied, but the fortitude of the pioneer requires us to surmount obstacles, and in a modern age, that means we must clamber over our own ignorance and fear of failure.

Initially, the road may not be paved, and we might struggle to determine the direction we need to take if there is no one to guide us; such is the task of the relentless fighter intent on carving a way forward. When the destination is not obvious, we are presented with our own wherewithal to make decisions and choices that might harm us as well as deliver us.

It’s bumpy out here, and what if you can’t easily find what sustains you? You keep going forward and shut up, as being a stoic is at the heart of being American. If you believe you deserve to be called a citizen of the United States, a real American, you push forward against the odds that will feel stacked against you, but in this age, it is no longer the brute force of strength that will propel you, it is what you’ve fed your mind, your education, and the opportunity you must work hard at to empower you. The easy way is for losers, they stay behind and wait for others to pave a trail instead of making the arduous journey themselves. We do not choose to stay at home watching the game, firing up the barbecue, or tossing back a beer today; we venture out to explore unknown spaces and risk learning about something that may not be initially obvious as to what value it gave us. Still, we seize the moment and embrace our radical freedom to be everywhere, anywhere, and nowhere.

Ah, the proverbial cake is served in the form of a roast mutton sandwich on frybread. We have pulled into Chinle, Arizona, on the Navajo Nation, and it is here at an anonymous dirt lot where it might not be apparent to those driving by that a loose grouping of trucks and a few trailers is actually a small flea market. Hoping I’d get lucky to find what my deepest desires want right now, I creep over the bumpy lot, slowly driving past tables and vehicles until my eye caught a truck and trailer looking like they were offering hot food. While Caroline grabs the last dish of roast mutton deluxe with corn on the cob, potato, and green chili (which I’ll help myself to), I opt for the roast mutton sans frybread (it’s a diabetes thing) and am now being delivered to a state of sheepy nirvana.

What wasn’t at the market but was found in the parking lot of a gas station was a husband and wife selling pickle dillies, which we’ve also seen offered as picadillies. Salty, sour, and sweet isn’t everyone’s cup of yummy, but my wife isn’t everyone, so the idea of having a snowcone of tiger’s blood, banana, and black cherry syrup with layers of pickles is the perfect summer treat for her. As for me, yeah, that diabetes thing again. I’ll hold out for the possibility I might find more roast mutton further down the road. If you don’t try what you don’t know, you’ll never know what you didn’t know, and you’ll only have yourself to blame for a life not lived well.

Freedom and independence are choices in a land where they are guaranteed, but you’ll have to muster some resolve to risk your sense of certainty and put away your biases. Are your mind and imagination open like the sky on a summer day, or are you locked in the dungeon of hate and resentment that others are living the life you believe you deserve yet are unable to budge from your obstinacy to grab? I’d like to reiterate that Caroline and I are not special; we are simply willing to go out, look, savor, and participate in things that are not a normal part of our routine. We give ourselves permission to step out of our comfort zone, and yet we keep finding great comfort in discovering something new and exciting where others might find nothing.

I need to stop a moment and consider things I don’t know, such as the thoughts that might arise here at the Hubbell Trading Post National Historic Site. This building is here because 158 years ago, the people of the Navajo Nation were force-marched over 300 miles from their native lands to a small reservation in eastern New Mexico. This act of human cruelty left deep scars on the Diné (Navajo), and why wouldn’t it? Forces representing the United States, along with disease and famine, killed more than a quarter of their population. So I can’t tell you how I might see the world and my opportunity in it if I came from an oppressed people. Regarding this trading post, it’s here because after the Long Walk, as the forced march is known, and the people returned to this land, trading posts were opened across the Navajo Nation as the U.S. government tried to support the Navajo in getting back on their feet.

This idea of trauma hindering the ability to move lives forward is obviously a touchy one that various ethnic and religious groups have had to contend with throughout time, but I can’t help but take inspiration from Jewish people, especially those who survived World War II. Roughly 33% of the global population of Jews died between 1933 and 1945 at the hands of the Nazis while their history of persecution for centuries prior is well known, and so their resilience to bounce back following the 2nd world war is nothing short of admirable. Tenacity to get past adversity seems to pay dividends, and while not all people are alike, there’s a lesson to be learned from not only people of the Jewish faith but maybe the Mormons, too. But I’m not here to dissect the minutiae of persecuted and oppressed people or to bring into context the barbarity of various societies over the course of history; I’m more interested in the valuable lessons learned. The most important of those lessons seems to me to be that bad, horrible, atrocious acts of cruelty are perpetrated on people from all walks of life, but the ability to stop the victimization thinking and lingering in despair is key to moving forward.

This positive way ahead applies to all of us as it seems that some relative majority of humans have suffered at the hands of neglect, abuse, lack of opportunity, bullying, condemnation, or some other bias that has negatively impacted lives. You see these Navajo woven baskets hanging upside-down here at the Hubbell Trading Post? This is considered bad in Navajo lore as baskets are used to hold important things such as food, and hanging them up in this way means they cannot serve their purpose and act in the capacity for which they were created It doesn’t always have to be this way and maybe someday they’ll be removed from the ceiling and restored to a position where, even if they never act as working baskets again, they’ll be on display and respected as what they were intended to be. People have to take themselves away from a position of remaining empty and restore their purpose. We are containers of important things such as knowledge, experience, and love, we should work together to develop our carrying capacity. We cannot relegate our function and utility to forces that only desire the sea of humanity to fill the role that brings fortune to a select few and not ourselves.

Think of this display as the face of humanity: we are pictures, baskets, pots, vessels, clothes, books, and rugs, things that all have great value, treasures if you will. When all these things are brought together, they are impressive in their magnificence, and we can easily recognize their collectibility. All of these things have something in common: someone with specific skills labored over each object to imbue them with form, particular characteristics, knowledge, artistic qualities, and every combination of those attributes that lends beauty and purpose to them. People are exactly the same, but we’ve lost sight of that as we’ve reduced individuals to being merely a thread, a particle of sand, a piece of wood pulp without real value, as though they were only a tiny constituent part of something bigger. This is plain wrong as we are all potentially fully formed artworks, fonts of wisdom, inspirations for others, and beacons of light that will lend skills and aesthetic grace to the next generation who can benefit from sharing if we don’t forget that we all have something worth offering each other.

The land is the surface we all dwell upon; the tree shares its durability and strength to give us shelter, comfort, tools, food, and heat. In the case of this hogan, the earth is also the roof that protects us from the elements. With basic sheltering needs cared for, we can turn our attention to our other needs, such as growing food, but in modern society, that is often available as a convenience at a nearby grocery store where the variety exceeds almost anything we might produce for ourselves. If those necessities are the minimum that is met, we must turn our attention to decorating ourselves and our environment. In earlier societies that meant painting and adorning ourselves, embellishing the walls of our dwelling, filling the air with our song and the music of our instruments. In modernity, while many are still occupied with the brand of clothes, makeup, size of a television, type of car, or cult objects turned into fetishized commodities such as phones, bikes, or handbags, the real element of total importance is how we enrich the internal world of our mind.

The exterior of your home, the entryway into that space, and the things that accentuate the appearance of places all carry little weight when it comes to what you bring to how you will see the world when standing before the multitude of situations you are ill-equipped to understand if you are willing to venture into the liminal.

Two-hundred forty-six years ago, in 1776, humanity required a document to express the need for freedom and declare independence as the greed and brutality of a ruling class that was busy owning other people in various forms of servitude or had yoked their subjects in rules and taxes that proved that souls and bodies had been conquered reached a breaking point. It would be 90 years after that and only after a civil war that those who might otherwise claim enlightenment were vanquished, and their ideas of slavery would start to be arrested. One hundred years after that and only one year after I was born, the Civil Rights Act was signed into law. With this knowledge of the glacial pace of change, I suppose reluctantly that the recognition of the importance of the freedom of mind space and the necessity of knowledge acquisition won’t be a larger issue of societal imperative before 2065, when I’m long dead. It’s tragic how slow we are to come full circle.

The human is but a vessel. It is this idea of us carrying the dreams, aspirations, inventions, covenants, tools, traditions, and love that we should honor this maxim instead of trying to squash it, which I feel we are doing at this time. While we cannot know with any certainty who our distant relatives were 10,000 years ago, I believe that although life might have been fraught with quite difficult struggles, they understood freedom and independence in ways that transcend anything we believe we know. Circumstances would have dictated radically different approaches to survival, but reliance on family, community, and the wisdom of those with life skills would have been paramount. Today, we proverbially throw the weak to the wolves; we cast them to the street and into existences that bring such despair that the only way to survive is through substance abuse, violence, and ultimately an early death. Our compassion for one another is less than we might place on rare and valuable objects such as this old Navajo basket.

Please do not correct me by giving examples of those who help one another, the individuals who succeeded against the odds, or the various programs designed to alleviate these issues. We know full well that ignorance locks the unfortunate in systems and paradigms they are unable to escape from. It is only with concerted efforts to pry them free of their own darkness that they have a chance at finding greater value from within.

Take these three clay vessels of Navajo creation and design; today, they are likely worth more than $20,000, but sitting on this shelf, their value is merely theoretical. Someone must fall in love with them and recognize what they represent, and then if they are so fortunate, they might find a way to acquire them for their own home, but if they are truly magnanimous, they will donate them to a museum for all of humanity to enjoy into the future. Imagine if society as a whole was so generous.

The three Diné women offered a generous and friendly embrace in taking the time to share in our enthusiasm for the native culture out here in Ganado, Arizona, and the history of the Navajo Nation as an outpost and container for the traditions of their ancestors. Caroline is once again sworn in as a Junior Ranger, but this time, it was after learning more about the lives of Ganado Mucho, who was the 12th signer of the U.S.-Navajo Treaty of 1868 that ended the captivity of  Navajo following the Long Walk. We learned of John Lorenzo Hubbell (known as the “Old Mexican”), who in 1878 started this trading post whose success in part relied on the friendship of Ganado Mucho. Hubbell, who had learned to speak Navajo, had the distinct advantage of being able to better share and communicate with the survivors of atrocities that risked erasing the people of these lands, and with that ability and knowledge, he helped establish trade in Navajo crafts that allowed the post to remain an important location into the 1960s when the National Park system took over operations. Had the Fred Harvey company taken over Hubbell, it might very well have been turned into a tourist attraction similar to the “Friendly Indian” places along historic Route 66, selling imported “hand-made” jewelry and plastic tomahawks. Today, we had an opportunity to peer into history and understand a little more about the changes our ancestors wrought upon the indigenous people of North America due to the empathy of a governmental body responsible for preserving not only nature but knowledge too. If you wonder if I’m contradicting myself, nothing is ever black and white, as people, governments, and cultures should all be evolving if they are to remain healthy. Just because mistakes are made every day, this doesn’t imply they can’t be rectified as our knowledge grows.

So there isn’t “nothing” out here in the middle of nowhere. There is everything that embodies the potential of people to find what they don’t yet know, to discover that freedom and independence emerge from wide open spaces that encourage people to learn what they’ve not found. First, people mustn’t be afraid of the apparent emptiness that their ignorance casts as something evil, hostile, or in need of being conquered by force; it is simply the unknown that, with time, is knowable. It is the wandering in open spaces that speaks of the greatest freedom and begs visitors to fill that apparent void with the truth of reality that exists everywhere.

The ideas regarding freedom and independence might seem like a rock impervious to the folly of fools, but it is precisely the fools that erode the structures that hold together the mountains of society and culture. Humanity is at a juncture on the map of our future to harness the potential of people to do good, or we can turn and do bad and erase all the beauty we could preserve if we chose to understand how fragile the most important things are. Happy 4th of July! On this day, we celebrate our opportunity to experience freedom and this incredible independence while being stewards of such important ideas.