The Cavern

I suppose today is as good a day as any to crack open this new 100 Years of Oregon State Parks notebook (sitting on the table on the right) to jot down a thing or two about our brief two-ish-day out-and-back trip to the Tucson area. The main draw of this excursion is happening later today down in Benson, but we don’t have to be there until 4:30, so we are moving slowly. Slow to breakfast, slow to coffee, and slow to get out of Phoenix.

Because future-me might want to know: we had breakfast at Country Boys, a joint at the edge of the Square (a poor high-crime neighborhood of Phoenix) on the same corner as Food City (a discount grocer aimed at the Hispanic community). Caroline had her usual spinach scramble with home fries and a single slice of wheat toast while I went with my predictable pork chops, eggs over medium, hash browns, and English muffin. For jelly, we both agree that mixed fruit is best. Caroline doesn’t mind the hot drink they call coffee; I’d rather stick to water and wait until we have coffee elsewhere, such as we’re doing right now.

Stopping here at Starbucks was a compromise because nearby Serafina Coffee was just too busy. I hadn’t intended to handwrite anything here, but I thought it would be a good start to our trip, and then once down south, I’d continue with pen and paper. As it turned out, I never returned to what had been a pristine notebook. With my earbuds fit in snuggly to block whatever it is that Starbucks thinks we all want to listen to, I turned on Röyksopp’s latest, Profound Mysteries III, and got to work filling in details for an old series of blog posts from 2006. This particular 7-day journey to the Panhandle of Texas had been taken over the long 4th-of-July holiday and had only included 1 photo and about 200-350 words per day; such was the bandwidth limitations of those days.

We made the 180 miles south with time to spare before Kartchner Caverns State Park closed. Yep, you read that right, the park closes at 4:30 which coincides with the beginning time of our tour. We last visited Kartchner back in 2012 with Jutta in tow, and while we loved the cavern, we were greatly disappointed that photos weren’t allowed. For someone who has captured so much of our lives through these images and writings, it was a letdown. That’s being rectified this afternoon, and hopefully, Caroline’s enthusiasm will help me capture a few images worthy of sharing.

Beyond this door is another door; the two of them, in tandem, create a barrier between the outside world and the humid cavern we are here to experience. This honor to be allowed to photograph what lies in the dark beyond is only given on the third Saturday of the month, beginning at 4:30 and ending at 7:00. For $125 a person, the lights will come up, and we’ll have a solid two hours in the Big Room to photograph what we can.

The photo shoot starts on a bitter and difficult note; our cameras have fogged over due to the incredible 99% humidity and heat (70F/21C) in the cavern. My tripod is condensing water to the point that it is dripping, and before I get out of this cavern, every bit of my clothing will be wet. The exertion required to be still while shooting, focusing my gaze on the hunt for something that speaks to me, and then jockeying for position on the relatively narrow walkway had this feeling like a workout. When we were done, I had over 200 active minutes on my Fitbit, and my rib cage felt like I’d been boxing. It took my camera lenses about 15 minutes to acclimatize, though I was still frantically wiping away moisture for another 15 minutes. As for me, I never acclimatized. But enough of that, on to the images. This first one took an incredible amount of work to make presentable, meaning that I made a lot of adjustments in Adobe Lightroom to eliminate the bloom and slight out-of-focusness that came with foggy equipment. It also took time for my nerves to find calm as I had to overcome some panic because we were spending a considerable amount of money to be here for this rare opportunity.

Three lenses, a tripod, and a remote control to minimize camera shake had come in with me, but it soon became evident that I wouldn’t have enough time to capture a fraction of what I was seeing if I took the proper time to set up each shot. So I decided to throw any attempt at professionalism out the cavern door and get busy practicing the kind of recklessness that meant I might be lucky to capture, but a few usable images as the depth of field, focus, and amount of light captured could all suffer. I kept the camera attached to the tripod so I’d have at least one of its legs on the ground to help stabilize the camera, but I knew this was risky. The more I tried to grab a moment of remaining still, the heavier I was breathing in this hot and damp environment, which lent to the sense of getting a solid workout. In retrospect, I should have gone slower and focused on a small number of areas in an effort to take half a dozen perfect images instead of what I’ve ended up with over 600 photos shot and nearly 70 images under consideration for inclusion with this post.

The trick to choosing what will be included comes down to what I end up writing about. If I find something to say, the text will belong to that image, and so it stays. Regarding what looks like a slice of bacon someone attached to this rock ledge, this is cave bacon (the actual term) that forms as water flows over a sloped surface. Caroline and I have also been so fortunate to see ice bacon in Yellowstone. I should point out that, as far I understand things, caves actually do not have any speleothems. Underground formations are the distinguishing feature of caverns. Should cave bacon be called cavern bacon instead?

Like the gaping maw of an alien beast, albeit one that is missing the majority of its teeth aside from these few remaining nubs, it opens wide, salivating at the thought of taking one of us as a snack. Alas, it is frozen in time, possibly due to witnessing Medusa.

Not all soda straws are equal. Take these tubular stalactites: they are rather short examples of soda straws that never got very far, especially compared to the 21-foot straw found in the Throne Room (also here at Kartchner Cavern State Park). We won’t be visiting that cavern during this trip to Benson, but we are already booked for a photography tour in August that is supposed to get us into the Rotunda/Throne Rooms. By the way, I’m no cavern expert. These may also be the beginnings of stalactites and, therefore, not soda straws at all. Somewhere, sometime along life’s journey, I might gain certainty about what is what.

On our way into the cavern, the ranger guiding us pointed out some water pooling on the ground, which is a rarity unless it’s been raining recently, which it has been. This glistening column poking out of the shadows is obviously not an example of that, but it did have me thinking of the water, the 99% humidity, the couple of people who had water drip on them (a cave kiss), and the sound of water drops that occur out of sight but not out of earshot.

What don’t you see when you see it because there’s no reference or your current knowledge doesn’t allow you to recognize the unique characteristics of a possibly striking anomaly? There are things growing here that appear to defy gravity, considering that it is dripping water that forms so much of what we are here to see for ourselves. I feel that some of these shapes look like thorns or maybe worms, but they are, in fact, helictites. Helictites belong to the family of speleothems, which is the overall term for the various cavern formations that are created by mineral deposits. So, if you know what stalagmites and stalactites are, you already have a rough idea of what speleothems are, but what you may not know is just how many types of them exist. This photo is a closeup of a very small section of the image below.

When I’m in a cavern, my senses are overwhelmed by the gravity and extraordinary nature of everything around me. The smell, sound, light or lack of it, humidity, temperature, formations, and the scale of things are a lot to take in. Scanning the space and trying to look further requires every bit of attention one can muster, and still, you will never see everything. This is compounded by all that you know you will never see. There is no x-ray vision that allows you to witness groundwater seeping through cracks, the naked eye cannot perceive the minerals in drops of water, and even if we were to visit a living cavern yearly, we’d see nary a fraction of growth over the course of a lifetime. And then there’s the proverbial 800-pound gorilla in the room we absolutely fail to see when in such environments.

That giant invisible beast is the limestone that dissolved over time and formed the cavern in the first place. Then, rocks fell and changed the character of these evolving underground chambers. With the surrounding earth still full of minerals, they continue to be leached by the flow of water and slowly, over time, drip into these rooms and form these striking features. Still, you must stop and consider just what has been said here: the limestone dissolved, meaning that a sea with its corals and seashells was once here on this underground land. Obviously, it is long gone, and so are most signs of its presence. It’s as if you are seeing shadows of a distant past displayed, and now you have to find space in your perception to add this detail while simultaneously being overwhelmed by a universe with which you may not be all that familiar.

Accretions play an undeniable and essential role here as it is the slow buildup of minerals that is responsible for so much that will capture our interest during this visit. Take these curtains, some with a cave bacon-like appearance; what do they remind you of? Pardon me if you find this vulgar, but some of them appear labial or lip-like, while others remind me of gills. This then had me thinking about how stalactites reach out for what’s below while stalagmites grow from the ground up on their way to heights above their humble beginnings. There is no doubt that this process doesn’t happen in a fortnight but requires tens, hundreds, thousands, and possibly millions of years over time before we start to gather hints of what is forming. Isn’t nature showing us how, throughout its domain, the process of accretion has changed the shape and form of all things over the course of millions of years, including us humans? Our legs are our stalagmites, our fingers stalactites, and all the points, folds, and layers between form the scaffolding upon which we are suspended in order to move this living version of salts, minerals, water, and flesh around in a world of mysteries.

When I took this stalagmite photo, I didn’t recognize something near its base. From the path where I took up my position among others, it was nearly impossible to make out small details other than the fact that I was looking at a glistening formation. It wasn’t until I got home and assembled this shot that something stood out. I should point out that this isn’t a single photo; it’s been built by assembling a vertical panorama of 4 images through what is effectively a 300mm lens. The original 24-megapixel images combined to create a 66-megapixel giant weighing in at 207MB, but you only get to see a 542 x 950-pixel image that is a tiny 228KB. All the same, what I want to point out is the discoloration in the bottom third of the image; not the stick-like thing at the very bottom that I believe is broken soda straw but the thing above that. I’ve convinced myself that I’m looking at the skeleton of Myotis velifer, a.k.a. the common cave bat.

This is the third time I’m sharing a part of the same scene, but in the other photos, the travertine sculptures might look dry. Look closer, and you should be able to make out two distinct drops of water at the ends of the formations (the one in the background on the right is quite blurry). I’m guessing that they’ve already discharged their molecular passengers, adding another tick mark of accumulation during the ebb and flow of water finding its way in before continuing its journey further below.

Like arteries and blood vessels (or maybe more like nerve branches?), patterns are traced on the rock overhead, and like those things I reference, these tracks deliver something from one spot to another. Yet again, I see these comparisons to our own physiology, and I’m not quite done because as I stare at this ceiling above us, I’m now thinking about how it has bonded to the surface and how it’s almost like bone. One thought leads to another and soon I’m searching for what exactly bone is made of: it’s calcium phosphate called hydroxyapatite (HA). On the other hand, corals and bivalves (mussels, clams, and oysters) use calcium carbonate to build their shells, and with the addition of different proteins, shells can simultaneously have mother-of-pearl smooth interiors while having rough exteriors. At what point in the evolution of nature is the use of calcium stumbled upon, leading to calcium phosphate that allows for skeletons that can support land animals, which will require stronger frames due to the effects of gravity? The story of our emergence out of the chemical soup of nature seems so evident, and yet I meet people every day who still believe we are the creation of a munificent being that brought us into being, relatively distinct from nature.

I wonder what designs on the world cave-bacon would have if it were self-aware? Or did I just answer my own rhetorical question with the absurd idea that maybe many people wearing a human facade are metaphorically mobile slices of cave bacon, only slightly aware of what is potentially able to be spun from their minds and imagination if they were unleashed from the slavery of fear?

Instead of tossing insults at the faithful, I should return to cavern thoughts and continue reading about the formation of speleothems, travertine formations in Yellowstone, corals that swim with plankton before the sound of a reef calls them to settle down, the building of bones, or the doctor who only in 1988 saw the similarities shared both physically and molecularly between bones and coral, and just how connected it all is. You could spend your time far more frivolously than researching how a snail secretes calcium carbonate from an interior mantle that builds its shell, meaning accretions are collecting at the leading edge of its protective shell in a process similar to everything that is growing in this cavern…aside from the bacteria, insects, bats, and us of course.

Reading is the solution (as in chemistry, where a solution is the mixture of substances), words are the precipitate that emerges out of the solution, and knowledge is the accretion of the precipitate that, over time, might develop wisdom. What I just spoke of in metaphor regarding the minds of people is the chemical process of what’s building these formations. A solution of water and calcium carbonate transfers (precipitates) the dissolved calcium molecules to a stalactite, thus growing the formation (accretion). This process has been fully analyzed by scientists, and if I understand things correctly, it is used effectively when ingots are dipped in a crucible of molten silicon to grow the wafers that become computer chips used to build our phones, make our cars smarter, and drive the screen you are reading this on. For chip manufacturers, this is like making gold.

One can understand here that accretive processes can bring great value, monetarily or aesthetically, to things. Take gold, for example; one grain of the stuff is tiny and requires 15.4 grains to equal a single gram. As I write this, a grain of gold is worth about $4, which equals about $62 per gram or $1800 per ounce. If you had but two or three grains of gold, you’d certainly be the owner of gold, but you’d be far from rich with your $12 of wealth. Now, imagine you had a bag with 33 pounds of gold in it; that would be $1 million worth. Back to our minds, how many grains, grams, or ounces of intelligence have you accumulated? Are you happy knowing you have some, or do you understand that the more you collect, the farther your intellectual wealth may take you?

But I didn’t want this to be a chemistry or financial lesson; I’m more interested in the letters that make words, words that create sentences, brains that read stories, and minds that grow knowledge and the idea of the intellectual accretion metaphor I shared. There’s something I left out of that equation: time. A cavern, a dark, potentially dangerous chamber within our earth, has plenty of time. Nobody expects the cavern to be performant, social, or responsible to others; it is just a cavern of rocks, sediments, water, and maybe some bats. Our skulls are dark chambers with unknown potential that are too often deprived of time. Outside of youth, time is a luxury few have, and we even try to monopolize our children’s gaze in order to steal their time.

Time, while abundant and free for use by nature outside of us, is a rare find for humans. We occupy people’s moments with frivolity, nonsense, superstition, allegiances to brands, loyalty to celebrities, and manufactured identities in the form of commodities that are tradeable, easily adopted, and exchanged for the next viral flavor du jour. What we don’t ask of people is to invest in exploring the void of time by gazing into the potential found in deeper cognizance. We are, as a collective, afraid of what knowledge might do to the masses and so we have invented mechanisms to cheat people of experiencing the brief moment in time they’ll exist. Meanwhile, the helictites are left alone to take all the time in the world to grow their tendrils so they might surprise our eye one day, should we be so fortunate to witness them for ourselves.

I’m guessing not everyone thinks of tendrils or cilia when looking at cavern formations, but I am, likely in no small part due to an article I recently read that spoke of cilia (short microscopic hairlike structures) in cells and in the part of our brain called the striatum and what their function might be. It turns out that the scientific community long thought they were vestigial elements with functions lost to evolution. Not true; maybe it could be that they are essential to how we tell time, and in mice studies in which cilia were removed from their brains, the report said;

“While the mice could still maintain long-term memories and habitual or already-learned motor skills, various negative effects were observed after the cilia removal. The rodents proved unable to learn new motor tasks and showed repetitive motor behavior as well as noticeable delays in making decisions. Their ability to quickly recall location and orientation information, and their ability to filter out irrelevant environmental sensory information, were negatively affected.” Click here for reference.

Bear with me as I leap into pure conjecture, but I feel that this incredible luxury I’m afforded called time has allowed me to explore fragments of knowledge (precipitates) that accumulate and feed my imagination and sense of place in our world, and while they may end in folly, it is thoughts that are the building blocks of what humans have harnessed to move forward. In this sense, knowledge is the cilia that propel the cell (in my example, a person), and if those tendrils of thought are squashed by not allowing a mind to explore its environment, we march on a path of self-destruction. How many people can say they’ve had an adequate amount of freedom (time) to discover themselves outside the toil of labor and performance for the milieu they strive to entertain?

Yes, my analogy compares brains to travertine. We make efforts to protect caverns while not giving the same consideration to developing minds. With caverns, we wish to see their beauty continue to evolve and be made available to others, but from humans, we require their utility. The exception: we relish in the art, music, craft, and invention of those able to afford the freedom to explore what their deep observations might mean. It’s obvious that simply paying a fee to enter and enjoy a place of great complexity, history, and beauty asks nothing of our comprehension or imagination; it is a simple bargain for simple minds. It’s what we do afterward that is important: are we afforded the time to digest and consider the potential lessons, or must we immediately return to wasting time like prisoners crushing rocks? Unlike the formations in this cavern, my brain is not made of rock, while I remain uncertain of what is in the skulls of others.

Don’t worry; this lesson/lecture about chemistry/intelligence won’t continue forever. I did warn you early on that I have included many photos and that the number of images chosen determines how long this blog post will be. So far, I’ve enjoyed the exercise of studying the photos I brought out of Kartchner and seeing where the tendrils of my curiosity lead me. The good thing for people who pass over the pages I’ve assembled is that I have little to no expectation that anyone will have read much of anything here other than my wife, who reads most every word in an effort to save me from my own poverty of mind.

This brings me to symbiosis and iteration. It is as though a solution coursing through my mind left a precipitate in the form of the word iteration, and now I have to contend with how it relates to the previous accretion found in the word symbiosis. What if I cannot find a story that duly offers something meaningful to the suggestion that I was going to travel in that direction? It doesn’t really matter, does it? We do not question Van Gogh’s use of blue at the center of a sunflower. But as I’m not Van Gogh, I should make an attempt to use this palette of symbiosis and iteration to create my own kind of flower.

Hanging from the rocks above, these seemingly frozen-in-stone icicles called stalactites are secure in their foundation. They are here due to the symbiotic relationship found in an environment conducive to building such long-term alliances. Not content with one single stalactite, soda straw, or helictite, thousands of iterations of mostly identical formations spring out of the space that at one time was nothing but barren rock. Once again, I turn to compare the cavern with people: I live in a symbiotic space between my head, my environment, and my rock of a best friend, my wife. I am a stalactite clinging to her while she offers me a place to iterate accretions of a mind that is rapidly producing variations of a theme, looking for the perfect form.

Thus, I’m afforded the opportunity to be in places like this and then later, somewhere else, dwell and examine what flowing through me. On rare occasions, I might stumble into the umpteenth iteration of saying what at first blush might be more of the same, but over the course of time, I may discover something just a little different – the branch I’ve been searching for. But how would I ever dare encounter my mind crashing into anything new or unknown if my hamster wheel kept me locked into a tightly confined intellectual space of the kind of repetition the majority of people live within? We must take the mental turn and, like these nearly parallel helictites traveling in contravention of the rules of gravitational force, go the way others cannot expect or maybe even understand.

Even if we must stand alone, we are still in a symbiotic relationship with the world around us. No matter what our place on Earth and in society, we’ll always be in nature. Regarding my social environment, I too often feel that I stand alone in isolation on a complicated pretext, striving to feel invigorated at the precipice of potentialities I must struggle to comprehend. This damning demand to be constantly peeling back the myriad layers of meaning thrusts me into the difficult dimension of effectively keeping others at a distance due to my refusal to cultivate the skills and interests that would allow me to have something in common with them. If I could redefine milieu to mean something akin to “One’s place in the environment of potentialities,” then I’d say the milieu I exist in is the best I could hope for, and if that new definition included those I’ve taken inspiration from as opposed to those people who’ve been physically part of the fabric of society I’ve emerged from, then again, I’d be happily acknowledging the milieu from which I came.

Momentum carried me this far, but not so far that I can claim I’ve traveled through even half the photos before hitting the juncture where all of a sudden, I’m wondering: “Where to next?” Maybe I should “Jackson Pollock” my mind with a couple of splashes of random words? Yes, I’m using Jackson Pollock’s name as a verb because I believe he painted by throwing paint at a canvas with the hope art would appear; maybe that’s not exactly true. Anyway, there is no such thing as random words coming from my mind. I could ask someone sitting nearby to offer up a couple of words to attempt the random acquisition of inspiration for what comes next, but I’m not ready for golf and latte to be tossed into the mix.

Carrot root cake with cream cheese frosting is how I choose to see this cave shield. It turns out that these formations are a bit of a mystery, even for scientists, with regard to how they are formed. Even more of a mystery to me is how the toy breastplate formation with one long nipple pointing upwards took form atop the shield; there is kind of a chicken-and-egg story going on here. Oh, right, I haven’t mentioned yet that, looking at egg shells, we see calcium carbonate at work, and regarding the chicken/egg reference, you can let your friends and family know that eggs entered the fossil record about 340 million years ago while chickens have only been on the planet about 58,000 years. Just as our ancestors bred wolves, turning them into dogs, I wonder what bird we used to create the chicken. Wouldn’t you know it? A search lets me know it likely came from a bird called Gallus Gallus, also known as the red junglefowl. None of this helps us understand cave shields, but who cares? The picture of one is worth the proverbial 1,000 words.

This is not the bottom of a cave shield, though the way the photos are sequenced, I couldn’t blame someone for that perception. It does appear that this image is a continuation of the one above. I can’t remember seeing another shield here in the Big Room, though as I study some of the photos below, I believe I see hints of older shields that are consumed by the ongoing growth process of the cavern formations. I bring this up as I think back to our one and only visit to Lehman Cave in the Great Basin National Park in Nevada, which has more than 500 cave shields in its system. This also reminds me that it’s been 20 years since that visit, and though we were just in the Great Basin this past September, we were there for hiking and visiting the bristlecone pine trees. Considering the poor quality of the photos I took at Lehman back then and that I am suffering from acute cavern fever right now, maybe it’s time to plan a return visit.

There are currently 32 more photos below this one, while there are 29 cavern images above it. I’ve already removed seven photos along the way to lighten my load, but many remain. I’ve been working on these words for three days now and might need to come up for air, which bothers me as I don’t feel I can really progress on other things before this looming responsibility is taken out of draft status and published. Stopping to take inventory of where I’m at is sobering and simultaneously illuminating the silly nature of what I’m trying to do, as I’m well aware that a dozen of the best images I captured would suffice for this post instead of 62 and who really has the time to read even a fraction of the more than 5,000 words I’ve already written? No matter, I promise you more words and while more photos could be pared, I will persevere as that is the job of nature to never quit.

Looking at the complex of various types of formations, our senses are overwhelmed trying to tease out significant details. Is one thing greater to look at than another? There’s no telling while we stand there gawking. Not quite slack-jawed but in astonishment all the same, we scanned the cracks, crevices, highlights, and shadows, searching this impossible-to-comprehend mass for that one detail that is the essence of the whole. Isn’t this idea of reducing the whole to a simple single attribute what we too often do with people outside of the cave of our cultural conditioning?

Finally, the horror of it all strikes me hard. We are looking at the melting exoskeletons of a trillion corals, clams, snails, oysters, mussels, and maybe even the giant nautiloids that are now extinct. I can’t imagine what it would look like if there was a vast cemetery of humans and the calcium from their bones had leached out of their graves to form such sights in the depths below. Fortunately, this thought did not occur to me while down in this cavern, but I suppose I’ll now see other caverns through a similar lens.

But wait, there’s more. Whoever thinks about the fact that marble is metamorphosed limestone? Yep, heat and pressure-treated exoskeletons that form a polishable surface you can prepare your food on. Considering that we might prepare our meals on what was at one time the corpses of other life creates a peculiar picture. Hey, don’t stop there, John. Look at chalk, which is similar to limestone: it is made of the exoskeletons of plankton, meaning that when I was called upon to write on a blackboard as a child, I was scraping the remains of previously living creatures on the wall for the sadistic pleasure of an adult who never told me of the cruel act I was performing. Had enough? I don’t think so; I opened a rabbit hole looking for information about calcium-carbonate-based rocks, and I’m not done. It turns out that frequently, there are bands of other rocks within chalk, specifically flint. Well, it turns out that flint often originates from the skeletons of sponges; these bones are called sponge spicules. We really are a death cult with our ancestors killing animals using spears made of fossilized sponges, butchering them on tables of nautiloid and snail shells, and cooking them on fires started with those sponges. Finally, we learned to cook with their crushed bones in the form of lime, use it to treat the soil for growing food, clean our water, and exploit it for the construction of our buildings.

So there we are, standing on graves, conquerors of all. Proverbial kings of the world, yet we may be too shortsighted to understand our rare but fortunate position, and instead of trying to comprehend this incredible symbiotic relationship with nature, we aim to conquer and destroy it. If and when we are successful and win the extermination of humanity, a new creature will likely rise in our shadow, finding itself burrowing through the tunnels of the earth to walk on our melting bones, buildings, machines, and destruction to revel in their oblique view of what they too may fail to understand while admiring the abstract beauty of a lifeform that was lost to time. The cycle of destruction and ultimate stupidity will continue.

Here we are, deep in the distillate of billions of years of life and evolution, under the excretory process of earth, digesting the life that has fed it as we remain mostly oblivious to the intricacies lying behind the nature we are here to witness. What do we leave the cavern with? What might we have learned? Or are we only playing witness to the incomprehensible exhibition of time that exceeds the common person’s ability to tease the slightest meaning from a complexity billions of years in the making?

These are hallowed grounds, as are the beaches, forest trails, mountains, skies, seas, and all points of the planet in between. There are no less than 27 people around me at the moment I write this. I struggle to find a common thread with them. I feel no kinship as I cannot believe they respect the enormity of what they fail to see and hear. Do they ever concern themselves about how they use their environment, or is it all somehow owed to them? What parts of their minds do they explore with the vigilance they deploy to make money or display their status? How has their religion made them so impervious to the magnanimity of the earth upon which they exist while piously giving credit for their selfishness to some unseen entity in an abstract universe called heaven? I should try to understand the reason for their myopia and allow it to absolve them from grasping what lies behind the veil of their inability to see and learn. Considering their limited perspective, it must simply be easier to exist within the rules and norms of those who promise salvation and riches.

Within our death cult, everything is already dead, including many people’s empathy and ability to find insight. While empathy and insight might have been in abundance in another age, we now treat the world and each other as something to exploit and deplete, yet many would proclaim to respect the holiest of holies. Stop a second and consider: would you act the same if Jesus, the Prophet Muhammad, Buddha, or Brahma offered you the earth as a child? Would you still be able to behave as the destroyer, exploiter, and uncompassionate caretaker of such a precious entity? Would you allow others to harm God’s offspring? For those of you devout souls, how do you reconcile your ignorance, hate, and oblivious natures of seeing God in this creation? And please consider I am not one of you. I’m a non-believer, and yet I can be easily awed by the enormity of the responsibility to tread lightly and celebrate this rare offering of life and all that it entails in what should be everyone’s precious abode, meaning everything we find on this beautiful planet that is our collective home.

When might the flow of consciousness reach the sea of enlightenment? Or is it destined to evaporate in a drought of our own imaginations that never grasped where we are and what we are? Each successive word fills a space I don’t believe exists anymore because I can’t really find what I want to share next. Yet, beyond my self-doubt, letters fall into place, triggered by fingers compelled to continue placing words upon an electronic page. I cannot write to anyone else but myself. I’m the first to see what my mind wants to show me, and though I may feel frustrated in what I think is lacking, the compulsion to continue suggests I just keep going, keep on flowing, and see where the river of thought takes me on my journey into the discovery of time that brings me to the next moment. A diamond might exist for at least a billion years buried in our earth before eyes fall upon it, enchanted by its specularity. These words need not be seen by others today, tomorrow, or the day after, but I must continue to put my word machine under great pressure if I’m ever to produce a single tiny literary diamond.

Words, time, and images shape your mind and possibly feed your soul, though I also think those same things may strip your soul bare when others are able to use you as a tool of harm. In that sense, life imitates the machine with its mindless program of grinding through the task for which it was built. Without the ability to find discernment, people feel threatened by being outside the center of conformity; the malleable mind is easily influenced by one’s own ego along with the oversized ego of a charismatic who tells the disciple how to be and how to find their place. Often in the case of religion, and now with our form of capitalism, those who guide others are likely manipulating empty vessels who are afraid to stand on their own. Bringing the initiate into the fold helps strip them of any unique characteristics and so they become a pliable mass able to perform the bidding of a larger system. When that system lies about things that would normally be in contradiction to reason or one’s own best interest, they are easily misled into performing the bidding of those who wouldn’t dirty their own hands, thus allowing the fool to gain favor with those who know better. The system perpetuates itself in this way, and the congregation grows. These newly minted tools can now be instructed to go forth and destroy.

Destroy the hopes and ambitions of others, contaminate them with the poison of a culture bent on blind repetition, and you can effectively stunt the growth of a society. This is the road we’ve chosen for a large swath of our population, not all, but far too many. Those who desire to elevate the downtrodden masses are as marginalized as those who would protect the environment, save an endangered species, or ask others to consider how they overconsume. Meanwhile, the accretive process within the cavern continues its slow drip toward perfecting its work. Hopefully, the same work continues within the minds and imaginations of those who dare to challenge convention and are willing to risk standing alone.

This is the Fried Egg stalagmite. It stands alone, the only one of its kind within the 2.5 miles of passages discovered here in Kartchner Caverns State Park. As a matter of fact, the entirety of the caverns is so appealing to visitors for the very reason that one’s eyes may fall upon extraordinarily unique forms while simultaneously being surrounded by much that is relatively uniform. We, humans, are typically enchanted by the novel and intricate unless we’ve been conditioned to fear those unknown places we’ve been told are the hiding places of bad things, demons, subversion, or horrors waiting to pounce on the person. There are too many examples to share where people find fear, from the simple things like camping and an unqualified aversion for certain animals and insects to politics and anxiety wrought forward that there are those who will steal the only life you’ve ever known.

In rereading some of this, I’ve noticed a glaring omission because I fail to acknowledge the role of abundance and scarcity. I write this from the perspective of someone existing in abundance, including this constant thread through my writing, the incredible amount of time I’m able to indulge in. I concede that when existence is shrouded in economic, food, and security scarcity, much of what I write about is rendered silly. Those basic human needs are too often on a margin that is out of reach, but there are many of us who have the means to consider the options under which we live and survive, and yet we fail to do anything about our own myopia with regards to improving others’ circumstances.

Maybe you start to pick up on my struggle to continue this screed, the tedium that is befalling my well-worn story of lamenting that all too often I feel that I stand in isolation. I, too, would prefer to be a part of the fabric lost in a tapestry of others celebrating the solemn beauty of life that surrounds us, even when in the bowels of the earth. Fortunately, the ones who were there that evening are intensely curious and willing to invest in the opportunity to see farther, to try to understand the inexplicable, and escape the occasional inclination to be sessile. To be fixed in one place is what sessile means, and while I can accept our inability to always be on the move, I find it unreasonable to do the same when it comes to human minds frozen in place like this mountain of cavern formations.

The craftier/greedier among us could tell their tools/subjects that these rocks contain riches beyond their wildest dreams, and if they descend upon these tunnels to bring everything back to the surface with them, a share of that wealth extracted will be their reward. With this activity of performing their bidding, the simple-minded would then be able to argue that this was evidence that they are not, in fact, “frozen in place” but are demonstrating their ability to go out and capture that which benefits them, even at the expense of what is destroyed in the name of gathering. I’d like to put forth that that type of human in this age should no longer be considered sentient because they lack a certain self-awareness or empathy before the face of nature.

To not affect change implies we’ve lost momentum and are as still as all that is before my camera lens in this cavern. We do not want to affect change because we are terrified of what we ourselves might lose by disturbing the status quo. With that all-gripping fear brought on by the threat of change, we become intellectually sessile; our brains perform a mean simulation of the barnacle, the tree, or a coral. The next step is to die in place with our minds long ago having started seeping out of our skulls, liquified by their lack of challenge. Maybe you’ve even conceded defeat and placed your hopes of a better future in your children, gee-whiz, nothing like the lazy pleasure of abdicating the heavy lifting to a generation you failed to inspire as you traveled the path of least resistance. Do you think me heavy-handed, boring, redundant, gratuitously obtuse from time to time? Then you might be picking up on my state of frustration that we humans have, by and large, devolved back into cave dwellers and yet have lost the ability to paint on the walls, tell stories, and dance for each other. As modern troglodytes, the opinions falling out of stupid heads informed by nothing of any real value hurts me deeply. I’d be remiss if I didn’t state it bluntly: it will be the demise of our species.

Quiet and solitude are where I’m heading next, though I’ll have to ratchet the cacophony of my lament down a notch and find a way to bring the ruckus of words to something of a low roar. I’ll try speaking using a soft voice and hushed tones. To compliment my thinking while distilling words, I’m tuning into Brian Eno’s newest work, titled Foreverandevernomore. While chamomile tea will not be part of the method employed, calming breaths should help guide the fingers into pleasantries. Minutes pass as I lose writing focus, drifting into the lyrical content of the track There Were Bells; these charming musings of the man writing to my own heart might prove a bit too distracting. On second thought, what better place for silence to emerge from than the writing of nothing?

More than two dozen drops of water hang in various stages of contemplation, each accumulating the weight required to be captured by the gravity that will launch them into their next journey. Patiently, they wait as what else is there to do? For a time unfathomable to me, this water has traveled across eons, possibly since before the planet formed. It only started condensing on our cooling earth about 3.8 billion years ago. There’s a great likelihood this water was once part of another creature, an ancient plant, or a million-year-old glacier that broke apart a million years ago before seeping through the rocks until reaching this point to glimmer before my eyes before disappearing back into the earth for a billion years or more. How crazy is it that I was on hand during the age when we were capable of understanding such things?

What about you, John? Have you been here before? To look at my midriff, it might be assumed that the pattern found in cave bacon is part of the recipe of DNA that creates the fat on my frame. While I’m taking poetic license regarding the science of living beings, there’s a high probability that the minerals my body is using to construct and rebuild itself were once part of a cavern, a field, a mountain, a crinoid, the nose of a dinosaur, or ejecta from a volcano. All of everything had to precede our arrival, including the expanse of time, in order for us to be here contemplating abstractions or distractions during the short lives we’ve been afforded to discover all that we might find on these journeys.

I find it healthy to indulge in distractions and will argue that a life without distraction is detrimental to the spirit of what it means to be a person on a path toward self-realization. Abstractions and flights of fancy are healthy detours into potentialities, not necessarily the fantasy type where we only wish things to be true, but those lines of thought that take us on epic adventures into knowledge we’d not previously encountered, which can lead us into discovery.

There will always be information hidden in the shadows, and that’s likely preferable as it keeps mystery alive. When everything is laid bare and unadorned before you, the entanglement of imagination to discover the unseen and unknown is stripped away. Maybe a big mistake of us humans is to believe that the ultimate secrets that hold all true meaning are kept by a god figure that may or may not be in one’s future, in which case, should we fail to peel back the layers of our curiosity to discover what we can find in our lifetimes, larger truths and reality may forever elude us. The fear of embarking on that search might just be why a majority of people are using the bandage of easily acquired entertainment to hide the wound of a broken sense of need to know. Is it really so easy to turn on the game, sit down to another binge-watching marathon, or give an ear to wild, half-crazed laments fueled by the paranoid rants of talking heads meant to incense you? Where is your internal dialog about the beauty of silence, shadows, mystery, love, and the questions of what it all means?

Love. It’s here; it not only traveled into the cavern with me, but it’s also right here in front of our faces, locked in everything we are looking at. What is love, after all? Love is familiarity, quiet, stillness, the long gaze, learning, curiosity, lack of judgment regarding the other, seeing the intrinsic beauty that others may fail to appreciate, and it is patience. If you find yourself impatient to take time in the quiet moments, if you are bored when stillness surrounds you, if things unfamiliar to you test your patience demanding you get fast answers to the hows and whys before you threaten to bounce, you likely act the same way in relationships. Urgency driven by scarcity is a wound inflicted upon people that convinces them they’ll miss out on the things they might desire. Living under this threat has conditioned society to exist on the plane of FOMO – Fear Of Missing Out. When fear shows its face in relationships, the risk levels go up, and often they go up exponentially, rising to violence, mental and/or physical. Fear induces the fight or flight response, either catapulting the individual into a full confrontational stance or ensuring they are gone before another moment passes, thus extracting themselves from the situation.

This brings us back to symbiosis and how it fails to establish a firm hold at the beginning of a relationship. In education, we fail to bring the child/teen/adult to a level of understanding of any real benefit from learning. They are surrounded by the artifacts of our collective stupidity, as demonstrated in the conversations heard in public, the dialog found in our movies and television, and the juvenile antics of our politicians. We ask learners to imagine a world where their education will find meaning and purpose, though entertainment is constantly acting as bait with the promise of fun. For those of us isolated from the popular crowd, loneliness is not a comfortable option, and so we turn to cultivate relationships with education, art, music, invention, and other creative endeavors in order to bring us into a kind of symbiosis with the histories and personalities of those who brought us those crafts. Our understanding grows as we go forward and become aware that our curiosity is out of sync with the larger collective who never found pleasure in education and learning. These are the first building blocks where the emotions allow for symbiosis to accrete, grow, and strengthen.

What comes out of that process is a radical new derivation as it relates to appearance and personality. That a person requires stimulation, sharing, and curiosity along with a social environment that fosters bonds with others should be knowledge strong at its root. Growth in a complex of potentiality cannot appear among clones; this is the artifice of the superficial machinations of a marketing/brand-based economy trying to convince consumers that salvation and joy can be found/purchased in things that have no relationship to love, individualism, and the unique character derived from a solid foundation of learning, love, and curiosity.

Take this tobacco-looking accretion emerging from the rocks above it, some might blurt out that this looks like shit compared to the shiny carrot-hued formations just below, but if that same dullard were told that one ounce of the stuff was worth a million dollars, they’d immediately see its intrinsic beauty. Isn’t this how we, far too frequently, consider others in our society? We talk from the perspective of knowing little and as long as we have an adequate distance of anonymity to ensure the wrong people don’t hear our musings of stupidity as we cast aspersions. I believe we hide behind descriptions that refer to this simplemindedness as gossip.

The person, place, thing, or pet that is loved in a sense loves you back the most when you are able to love and respect it for what it is without having the need to alter its fundamental nature. While I’m the first to admit an abhorrence of anthropomorphism by suggesting a rock might love you back, let’s play an imagination game.  If one could see in this structure that the travertine is smiling at them and offering thanks for their appreciation, would they so easily take an axe to it, chopping it to bits to find something of value within? This is what so many people metaphorically do to one another, and more than likely, it’s due to fear that the other person will develop in a way that will ultimately exclude the person who desires their love. How many times have we witnessed this for ourselves?

So hang your anger, bias, disdain, lack of understanding, intolerance, and the conditioning of a toxic role on the door of your outside self and open the windows of your perception to see the things you have so far failed to understand. Reawaken the innocence and desire for surprise, which is a key part of discovering the symbiotic self that wants to find unknown and potentially scary things. We are not always allowed to know all the answers, as mysteries keep us coming back to find what we obviously missed before. Just stop and think about it: it is the constant growth, discovery, and wonder of your toddlers that enchant you every day, it is the surprising nature and antics of your pets that endear them to you, and sometimes, it is your own delight once you’ve stepped outside your self-imposed boundaries that give you hope that you might be at a turning point.

From here, we return to iteration. Like the instructions on shampoo recommend: lather, rinse, repeat. Except we change it to love, discover, and grow. Of course, who am I to deny anyone their misery of, despair and rage? But when the beast shows us its fangs in the form of a deadly weapon and exercises its dissatisfaction on anyone who shows the slightest bit of fear, we must accept that this is part of the price of our laissez-faire attitude which gives people the freedom to be as stupid, angry, and broken as they choose to be or that the system conditions them to be.

True, the spectacle of abhorrent violence, intolerance, and aberrant behavior offers us something to gossip about to fill the moments of boredom, but is this really what our species desires? If I were so inclined, I could easily enter a conversation with nearly anyone around me at this moment about nonsensical subjects such as a shooting in Monterey Park, California, the price of eggs, perceptions regarding vaccines, or the veracity of someone’s favorite news source, but I likely cannot discuss the inherent beauty found in my explorations of the world around me. A world without violence, injustice, and mindless fodder is just not interesting; we want big drama, big lies, higher body counts, and proof that “the system” is against us. I find this to be a strange choice of priorities when one has the ability to avert their gaze from such things and chooses to see the inverted world found in a drop of water that reflects the magic found in the extraordinary.

Good thing that life has proven to be resilient and that even after five known major extinction events over the past 500 million years, new life has sprung up. Should we ultimately prove too incompetent to have handled the place we’ve taken in nature, it’s at least reassuring to know that the water of life will continue to flow, new things will emerge, and if some future species is as fortunate as we were, I hope that they’ll recognize the beauty and rarity of having sprung into existence and work to cherish not only each other but the lands and waters that support them.

Inside our heads, we begin life with a nearly empty cavern called the mind. We are constantly visited by culture (our family) that will allow life’s experience and language to grow formations that others can marvel at in their beauty. That growth doesn’t stop with a single giant stalactite/monolith of some specialized knowledge; we are an entanglement of depths with treasures hidden in the shadows that might only be found by others exploring not only the world around them but also trying to understand one another. You will not find any of this in a video game, a TV show, the Marvel Universe, your tuned car, or a big house. Love is not your allegiance to a slogan on your hat, knowledge doesn’t fit in yoga pants, and compassion is not found behind the gate of your fortress or in the lies propagated for popularity with the in-crowd. Truly valuable things are found when we realize the void within is missing our consideration of what we are afraid to see, hear, taste, touch, read, and explore.

I do not say you will find answers; as a matter of fact, you might only find more questions and wonder why the void seems to expand. Understand that, like the universe expanding into the infinite, the mind and one’s curiosity might have their own infinite plane of existence that doesn’t stop at your comfort zone.

As we near the end of this two-hour indulgence in Kartchner Cavern and upon seeing this cave bacon mask of horror, I’m yet again brought back to that oft-repeated quote by German philosopher Friedrich Nietzsche: “Battle not with monsters, lest ye become a monster, and if you gaze into the abyss, the abyss gazes also into you.” I might change this to, “As society battles with the monster of loneliness and uncertainty, accept that we are creating new monsters, and when we gaze into the empty pit of a mind, the emptiness of life will creep in to destroy all we might cherish.” Meaning, we must venture outward and inward to search for experiences that bridge the chasms we are destined to confront.

When I started this post, I thought my path would take me into a narrative of the beauty found in the cavern and that I’d reflect on our great fortune to be here on one of the half-dozen opportunities to photograph the Big Room per year, but instead, I found myself digging into myself once again. If I’m lucky, the past week has allowed what has flowed through my head to take some kind of form or other. I may never know if I’ve been building stalactites, stalagmites, helictites, soda straws, shields, curtains, cave bacon, masks, monsters, or what, but I can hope that these words act as tiny plankton and will settle down in some random places to contribute to the corals that help support things bigger than the nearly invisible elements that build giant structures humans are in awe of.

Pictorially, this is likely my longest blog post, though I can’t be certain, and I don’t have an efficient means to figure that out. As for word count, I’ve written one post that is longer, though it was actually an amalgamation of many bits and pieces of things I wrote over a 36-day period in Germany a couple of years ago. This is the first post where I endeavored to write for a ridiculous number of images I found enchanting and too difficult to choose the best ones, so I went for it, and now here I am at the end. Not quite the literal end, but the end of the cavern side of things as though this might be a good place to quit; one does not live on words and ideas alone and dinner was in our plans.

Caroline Wise in Tucson, Arizona

Caroline, what the hell are you doing trying to crawl into my photo? Is this the inner troglodyte coming out of you after such an immersive experience in the cave? I mean, we are here for a shared tomahawk steak that might have certain characteristics of a caveman meal, but this is not flattering. True, I find it funny that you are able to make such faces, meaning you’ve graduated into being a fully-fledged American, and in accordance with what I wrote above, you are fulfilling this idea of keeping the mystery alive, so maybe this is where I should close this down with one more exclamation of how much I love my partner in discovery.

Oregon to Arizona – Day 11

John Wise and Caroline Wise in Eugene, Oregon

I’ll never know you, creepy passenger in seat 2A, but someday, an artificial intelligence algorithm will identify you and tell your descendants that it found an old photo of you, and they’ll see you peering our way to see what we were photographing which was nothing more than us on a plane out of Eugene, Oregon.

Flying over California

Last night as I was checking in for our flight, we were offered an upgrade out of peasant class, where the likes of us belong, to sit among royalty for only $92 a person extra. We couldn’t turn down this bargain as our checked bag was now included, we were among the first dozen to board the plane, and we’d certainly have overhead bin space. While waiting for the cattle to load, we were offered coffee fitting our new status with promises of more luxuries to come as soon as the curtain was closed between us and “them.” Once in the air, our three-course white-glove breakfast service was brought out with silver dining utensils. When this part of the formalities was finished, there was nothing left to do but for Caroline to kick back and enjoy her mid-air pedicure.

Flying over California

Eleven days ago, flying over California on our way to Oregon, shamefully, as just two more cows in peasant class, I cracked open Bruno Latour’s After Lockdown. I was certain I’d finish it while out on the coast, but it turned out that I never found a moment to read even one more sentence. As we were taxiing this morning, I was struggling to write legibly, but as soon as I put a period to this paragraph, I’ll be turning back to the book to see where he takes his ideas on metamorphosis.

Flying over Arizona

Providing size comparison that the earth is merely 0.14% the weight compared to the weight of energy the sun emits, Latour posits that, in effect, we live in a thin biolayer of existence much like a termite, though we’ve tricked ourselves into believing we have the autonomy to go where we want. Lockdown thus turned us into the termite and changed our perception of who and what we are.

Flying over Arizona

If women and earth are feminine and men and the universe are masculine regarding our species’ evolution so far, when will we recognize the need for more humans to be caregivers and nurturers? This need to have men accept roles that have traditionally been female roles will change the way men see themselves. Maybe we are already seeing this change.

Flying over Lake Pleasant in Arizona

That’s Lake Pleasant out there, which is at the edge of Phoenix, meaning we are almost home. Time to close that chapter from Latour and put the Oregon coast behind us before settling into a long slog of trying to document another incredible vacation.

Leaving That Place

Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

The impressions of a place have a lot to compete with as we grow older should we have collected a lot of memories that we wish to hold on to. The obvious fix to that dilemma is to grab permanent reference points along the way that allow you to return when physically doing so is not possible. So, in leaving a place, we take out a kind of insurance guaranteeing at least some access to memories that will likely fade with the passage of time.

Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

The door to the right leads to the room Caroline and I have stayed in before, and it’s also where we are staying on this visit. It is the Library Room and if you are interested in seeing it, you can visit this breadcrumb from January 2020 I left on my blog so we revisit it from time to time. This works out great because maybe I failed to capture an image I’m satisfied with on this visit to the Simpson Hotel here in Duncan, Arizona.

As per the routine that seems impossible to break free of, we are up with the sun and out the front door before anyone else has begun to move, including the cats.

Duncan, Arizona

Yesterday, we went north; today, our walk turned south out of the hotel door. Maybe because it’s Sunday, it feels quieter than on other days, though this could just be a layer of my desire to create a more romanticized moment. Walking away from the Gila River, our path took us past some of Duncan’s churches on Main Street. We’re not looking to attend services, our goal is to continue our aimless wander through life.

This meander into the unknown might have lasted 5 minutes before a sign caught Caroline’s attention; it told of a nearby jetplane. Up the hill with million-dollar views occupied by the poorest residents of Duncan, we aim to go see that airplane monument that, I already know from a previous visit sans Caroline, is sitting on the ground decaying.

Duncan, Arizona

Like the old Air Force fighter jet in the background, the park is run down, and the community pool between this swingset and the plane is dry and as neglected as everything else up this hill. While you can’t see it from here, the fighter is on blocks with its wings tossed to the side; somehow, this all feels appropriate for the neighborhood.

Duncan, Arizona

Having grown tired of the dogs barking viciously at us as we tried exploring the area, we were quickly back on Main Street, seeing the churches from the other side. Typically, this shouldn’t matter as it’s not like we were looking from the perspective of hell, but it was what was on the backside of the sign of the First Baptist Church of Duncan that perked up our senses. As it may be difficult to make out in my photo, it reads, “Discerning of Spirits, Speaking in Tongues, Interpretation of Tongues.” All of a sudden, the idea of attending service feels intriguing, though we’d both be reluctant to step in as we’d be certain that the parishioners would see right through us, identifying the interlopers as the Satanic tourists we are.

Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

It’s rare that I feature photos of food on these pages as they never really capture the charm or essence of what they represent to us; the exception is often in the form of donuts or ice cream. Breakfast from Chef Clayton was an exquisite concoction of eggs in the form of quiche, three small gluten-free corn-like griddle cakes, five radicchio petals with one wonderfully savory Kalamata olive, a small bowl of fresh fruit, and hot coffee. Breakfast here at the Simpson is consistently a standout affair that deserves commemoration. Time to leave this place.

New Mexico State Line near Duncan, Arizona

Hello, new place down the road, we are here. This is not new, like new as in the first time here, but new as in new to us today. But it’s not the same as before; things are different. An abandoned, decrepit old house that I documented here and here during different visits now has a fence around it with a No Trespassing sign posted. The adjacent fifth-wheel mobile home is now gone; for that matter, it seems like more of the Welcome to New Mexico sign is on its way out, too.

Cotton growing in Virden, New Mexico

Still sitting in the field awaiting harvesting are sporadic patches of cotton. In between this sentence and the previous one, a period of about 15 minutes passed where I was researching why cotton produces all these fibers. I suggest you read this paper about the life of the cotton plant and these bolls; you will finish it in astonishment. Those fibers grow out of the plant’s seeds and are hollow tubes that fill with cellulose as they mature; what’s behind all of this and the variables to get to good cotton blew my mind. I thought geology was extraordinary; just read about this plant that clothes us.

Caroline Wise near Virden, New Mexico

There’s a cliche that says women love flowers. Well, that cliche never met my nerd wife who’d rather be gifted a tuft of cotton, fleece shorn from a musk ox, sheep, or alpaca, or even fiber collected from a passing animal that is shedding its winter coat.

Halloween near Virden, New Mexico

Boo! Tomorrow is Halloween, and I think this farmer is ready with this great roadside treat. After this pièce de résistance, there was only one thing left to accomplish on this day, aside from picking the pecans Caroline collected around the corner, that was to race back to Miami, Arizona, for our second encounter with Guayo’s El Rey Mexican restaurant for another kind of treat. Not bad for a weekend of staying in place and accomplishing our version of doing nothing.

Commitment to be in Place

Duncan, Arizona

Of course, a day has a beginning, and in this cliche of announcing its arrival to recount what passed in those early moments, I find myself regretting wanting to offer a laundry list of things we did, which ended up being nothing more than taking a walk in the direction of the nearby Gila River. A river that has been flowing heavily, according to our hosts, and that recently flooded this small town of Duncan, Arizona. The same river I wrote of yesterday that I thought we’d find as dry as the environment we left at home.

Giving importance to what we are doing here in Duncan seems noteworthy, although I’m looking at things that those who live here find absolutely normal. I attempt to elevate our own experience of this commonplace stop on the map so that our memories might remain with us and not be immediately lost in the multitude of impressions we take in on a day-to-day basis. This reminds me that I’ve rarely ever traveled across Phoenix with the idea of noting what sights and moments I’d capture as though I were visiting it for the first time, an exercise worthy of consideration.

Near the Gila River in Duncan, Arizona

Along the way, we encountered two guys sharing the same path. They were obviously out here looking for birds, which had me bringing up that we’d just spotted a couple of sandhill cranes, but nothing like what we’d seen earlier this year down by Douglas, Arizona. One of the guys piped up, saying that must have been Whitewater Draw; it sure was. While it took a second for my brain to process things, it dawned on me that if he knew that place, he might know of others, and so before there was much distance placed between us and them, we turned around. Well, I’m happy we did, as this introduced us to Arizona Birding Tours, with Caleb being one of their guides. He recommended that if time allows this weekend, we might want to pay a visit to the nearby Gila Box Riparian National Conservation Area. While writing this, I popped over to the Arizona Birding Tours website and signed up for their newsletter, hoping this seed sprouts and that in the new year, we’ll find ourselves on our first official birding tour.

The Gila River in Duncan, Arizona

Well, well, the Gila River is running high and even has a bit of fast water flowing through it. That the river crested at about 22 feet is evidenced in the tree line where debris collected. This must have been quite the sight. Not watching or paying attention to any local media, we often have no idea what is going on in Arizona, and to be sure, we prefer it that way.

Following our wakeup walk in the brisk air that hovered in the low 40s and included a close encounter with a herding dog ensuring we weren’t interested in his goats, we sauntered back to the oh-so-historic Simpson Hotel for our rendezvous with breakfast and our now firm decision to remain in place while attempting to do as little as possible. While not on the bongos, Clayton did take up the stove to prepare us a home-cooked meal that, as usual, smacked of perfection.

The art of Don Carlos at the Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

From the kitchen, the music of Françaix’s Oboe Concerto titled L’Horloge de Flore: Silène Noctiflore is wafting into the dining room where breakfast was taken, and we are currently contemplating how we’ll implement this strategy of doing things that amount to nothing. There’s little to think about, fleeting ideas to consider writing about, and if I were smarter than I am, I’d know to leave my mouth shut and to take a vow of silence when presented with these opportunities to be somewhere with myself. Instead, I detour into small talk that leaves me uncomfortable with that dreaded sense that coffee-driven conversation was too frantic when what I thought I really wanted was internal quiet. So it goes.

Do not look for a lot of correlation between today’s images and what I write of, though sometimes that will work out. To a large extent, I have more photos of specifics while my writing might be all over the map, which others can attest to as being my norm when it comes to talking.

The Pompeian Bakery at the Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

Sitting in the garden, having pulled up a seat in front of the Pompeian Bakery, I’m surrounded by the insects that obviously saw an explosion in their numbers due to the rains and flooding during the monsoon season. If I were a betting man, I’d wager this swarming horde is at work to drive me away while the warm sun, sound of the fountain, and chirp of crickets beg me to stay put. Mosquitos might prove persuasive enough to send me indoors, but I will not be easily defeated as I’m no village near Naples, nor are the bugs a kind of pyroclastic flow.

The art of Don Carlos at the Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

One of the kittens romps about on the hunt to play with the grasshoppers and little white butterflies, while the older cats cannot be bothered with youth’s antics. The cats move between sun and shade, and the occasional visit for a quick head rub or even snuggly intimacy to let me know they have claws with a need to knead. I can only oblige one or the other for so long before they grow weary of my hand or me of their retractable needles.

The art of Don Carlos at the Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

These moments of romanticized encounters in the garden were short-lived. I can blame it on the offering of coffee and that it might be better enjoyed inside, or I can admit that the sun grew oppressive, the flying insects annoying, and my patience for such things thin. Whine and comfort can exist on the same menu as I try to choose my words, but what of the proverbial substance of thought I could be serving up? Can’t say I know a definitive answer to that as I tune back into the tick-tock of the clock.

The art of Don Carlos at the Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

Here we are in the diorama of our own experience, looking out into a temporary reality while believing we are on yet another weekend trip. One potential alternate scenario is that we are borrowing the environment we’ve traveled to, and from the constructs offered by this place, we are temporarily within a diorama hybridizing our world with that of the Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona. to create a new moment on the stage in the box of our existence. [The Latin quotes in the background are “Odi profanum vulgus et Arceo – I hate the common masses and avoid them” and “Facere quod in se est – Do what lies within you” – Caroline]

The art of Don Carlos at the Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

The pieces of who we are are like the ruins of the architecture that preceded us. We are built from their dust while the words in our heads have spilled off the pages of every book ever written. It’s our life’s work to create new architectures while penning our own novel stories, bringing mythologies and potential meaning to this entity of ours while desiring to understand the absurdity of its presence in the moments it has been granted life.

The art of Don Carlos at the Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

Is that the man Don Carlos behind the pig whose maw holds the glowing orb of time travel? Metaphorically and literally, I would have to say yes, but the sense of the message from the artist is lost as it is not a forthcoming gesture from him to explain anything other than maybe the title of his work. Even armed with that, there is little meaning the artist can begin to convey for the individual experiencing their art as it is from our internal dialogue and personal history that we’ll attack this interpretation of reality.

The art of Don Carlos at the Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

I’ve stood here before, but the circumstances and outcomes were all different. The pieces might be the same, and the setting could be similar, but nothing is as it was. Visiting places existing in art does not benefit from changing seasons, dramatic differences in light, or the immediate weather, but we will experience them differently as our maturity and knowledge evolve. So, like visiting a favorite place over the course of many years, we should be so fortunate to revisit the art we’ve encountered during our lives but do you remember what was where over the course of your travels?

The art of Don Carlos at the Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

From this tiny corner in a larger piece, I’m going with this as a depiction of Saint Thecla when she was visiting the Apostle Paul in prison; yep, that’s what comes to mind.

The art of Don Carlos at the Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

Hidden in the corner of the ruins of Rome sits the abandoned head of cowardly Nero Claudius Caesar Augustus Germanicus. He’s disfigured by the fires that still burn behind him. Don’t let Don Carlos tell you that my interpretations are way off base because my freebasing while writing this shit is all the inspiration I need to see the truth.

Don Carlos' workspace at Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

Such was the great influence of seeing the studio of Francis Bacon that I now desire to find that impression of chaos in the space of any artist’s corner I’m fortunate enough to visit. Looking at stacks of dusty tools, possibly neglected projects or pieces that were at one time intended for something or other and that yet might find their way into a work, draws me in to wonder about meaning and utility. When exploring my own headspace, I don’t have the luxury of physically moving things around. Even if of little value, I can hold a thing in my hand and let it resonate about how it could come into play. At least in the realm of digital arts, I have icons, tabs, and texts that draw me into considering what that thing can offer me; here, in my mind, I’m forced to sift through invisible impressions that might hint at ideas not yet realized.

Don Carlos' workspace at Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

I’m seized by either envy or respect that by reaching out, I could grab a tool that would allow me to share a brushstroke, the beginning of a great visual piece of representation that would allow the observer to snatch a moment from my imagination. Stop a moment, Mr. Wordsmith, this other artist, is likely also stymied at times with the thought that a single brushstroke is but a line that potentially goes nowhere and is no more effective in conveying anything more than my leaving the letter Z here for no real purpose.

Don Carlos' workspace at Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

Is that an urn, a finial, or part of an old baluster? Next to it, a skull and shutters set up a Shakespearean randomness that occupies a shelf in the artist’s studio, while the juxtaposition might even be a contrivance speaking of the spirit of humanity ascending the heights before throwing open the shutters of the mind and imagination to gaze into and upon what it has not yet seen or dreamt.

Cobwebs at Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

Dust and cobwebs are proof that time has passed. They are not inherently dirty as there is no illness or disease that can accumulate or be attributed to such things. Some might argue an allergic sensitivity on behalf of the compulsively clean, who, in my view, are delusional with a propensity for drama and hysterics.

Cobwebs at Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

These relics of the passage of time suggest mystery and the absence of something as though they are filling the void to allow the passerby to think that nothing else is here aside from the echoes of the past. The dust tells us that things are settling, while the cobwebs hint at where spiders dwell, though their dusty condition also offers the clue that their inhabitants have moved on. Maybe we should, too.

Caroline Wise with cat at Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

As I ponder cobwebs and dust, I can easily believe that our plastic trash, like human webs, is gathering the dust of our neglect. Of the trash, we show little concern, but should we encounter the scourge of perceived uncleanliness, we clamber for the outrage befitting such housekeeping (or lack thereof). This begs the question, is Yelp where the Karens and Kens metaphorically glue their hands onto a painting in order to express their outrage while kicking back to watch Rome burn under the plastic facade of fake concern?

There are places that demand certain things from people, such as a museum that invites one to appreciate the art, a visit to the coast on a late fall day suggests a bundled-up walk might be nice, while moments spent in an old cathedral demands silent contemplation. Here at the Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona, we both feel the draw of remaining in place, sitting with the cats, listening to the tick-tock of the wall clock, and experiencing the quiet of everything else.

Old movie theater in Duncan, Arizona closed since 1979

By now, I’ve walked miles in circles that don’t extend very far in any direction, primarily here at the hotel, its garden, the art gallery, and this roofless, defunct old movie theater next door. Should I stop and consider things deeply, I can recognize that much of my trek has been in the created world of artist-in-residence Don Carlos and his dioramas that foster travel through history and literature. These reflections of his musings dare the visitor to find their own interpretation of where they’ve been after going within. For me, I apparently walked endlessly in these miniature settings until, with hunger approaching, we found ourselves on a stroll outward, thus breaking the spell we’d strove for to do as much of nothing as possible.

Duncan, Arizona

There doesn’t seem to be anything else to write about. For one, we are sitting down for dinner at the Ranch House, which is our second visit today. And my writing is ignoring Caroline here on my left. I’ve handed her the two other pages of what I’ve been writing this afternoon so I can write about nothing much at all as we await the delivery of our meals. The situation then begs the question, why don’t we just bring up our phones like normal people so we can avoid conversation? Just as I ask this very question, Caroline, now finished with reading my blathering, brings up her phone and reads about the history of Our Lady of Guadalupe.

Sunset in Duncan, Arizona

Hear our prayers, holy mother of god; we have a hunger for that which nourishes our guts. Like a miracle, our enchiladas materialized right before us. Caroline corrected me on this to inform me that our server, Mackenzie, actually delivered them while I was paying more attention to being in my own world than sharing dinner with my wife.

Flittering It All Away – Trip 18

Shower repairs in Phoenix, Arizona

Apartment maintenance necessitated an impromptu weekend away from home. Due to slightly toxic fumes and the inability to use our shower before Monday, we decided to get outta town. We are heading east towards the Arizona border to the town of Duncan, just this side of New Mexico. Apparently, this will be the 4th visit to that tiny outpost, spending a night or more, though not all stays involved, both Caroline and me, and we’ve been through there at other times.

Caroline Wise at Starbucks in Mesa, Arizona

Who knew that we’d get out so early that there would be time to flitter away? That’s just what happened when Caroline told me she was ready to leave as 2:00 p.m. came around. A decision had to be made: where would hang out a bit to delay our adventure due to appetite and dining options? Well, traffic on a Friday played a role here. I knew it would have to be past the intersection of Highway 202 and Highway 60 so the worst of the traffic would be behind us. Starbucks was the answer, just not one in a grocery store, and that’s just where we are. Caroline is knocking out some DuoLingo stuff before getting to knitting my next pair of socks, and as for me, obviously, I took the photo and am writing this paragraph. But I’m almost done here; it’s only 3:10, and I’m thinking we’ll leave here in about 30 minutes, so I’ll return to writing about our first trip to Hawaii in which, after visiting three other islands, we have arrived on Molokai.

Billboard about The Big Lie entering Miami, Arizona

A key part of this journey east has other requirements, such as stopping for dinner in Guayo’s El Rey in Miami. You might think, “Hey John, what about La Paloma Mexican restaurant over in Solomon?” I’d love to inform you that Solomon is only 35 miles from where we’re staying, so either Saturday night or Sunday afternoon, we’ll be stopping there, too. Then there’s the Ranch House restaurant right there in Duncan where we’ll likely take lunch tomorrow as we do like supporting the local economy. As for activities, I’m still eyeballing those options, with Caroline already having voiced the idea that we could simply hang out, sit in the garden, walk along the likely dry riverbed of the Gila River, write, knit, and do other nothingnesses.

Taylor Freeze in Pima, Arizona

The “Enable The Big Lie” sign was on the way into Miami and required a U-turn around to take a closer look as neither of us could believe it hadn’t been defaced or if it even meant what we thought it meant. These rural corners of Arizona are chock full of extremist rightwing fascists who are so tanked up on anger that, even if I were inclined to put bumper stickers on cars, I couldn’t at this time due to the potential of imbeciles to target our car in a hate crime. Hell, even driving a hybrid feels like flirting with potential risk, as who other than some lefty pansy would consider anything that won’t haul 42 tons and burn diesel?

When we leave the metropolitan area, I go on guard to stay out of the way of the white, angry, 20- to 55-year-old men driving trucks with wheels as big as my wife is tall, and conversely, when we approach cities, I’m on guard once again keeping an eye out for the maniacs driving like animals on the hunt aiming for home, where there must be a fresh lamb awaiting slaughter.

With my brain making me feel the rumblies of stress, we required a stop at Taylor Freeze in Pima in need of a treat that only one of their chocolate shakes could satisfy.

Rainbows of Contemplation

Grand Canyon National Park North Rim, Arizona

You can be certain that we were nearly the first at breakfast as we were uncertain at which point they’d run out of food. Should you wonder why we didn’t head somewhere else for dinner or breakfast, well, “somewhere else” is Jacob Lake, about 45 miles away, which requires an easy hour to drive in each direction.

Grand Canyon National Park North Rim, Arizona

It’s a rare day in a national park that we pull up to the best seats in a lodge to just sit back and watch the weather pass, but that’s what we are embarking on right now. From a still-dark canyon when we first peeked into this fog-filled void prior to our visit to the dining room, the rain comes and goes. Also on the move have been some whisps of clouds forming off the edges of cliffs and nearby outcroppings.

Grand Canyon National Park North Rim, Arizona

In between, the sun pops out and brings golden light to small corners of the vast landscape sprawled before us, while at other fleeting moments, rainbows spring into their ephemeral existence and just as quickly fade away. The canopy floats by or is it hovering over the canyon? Whatever it’s doing or how it might be characterized, it’s beautiful.

Grand Canyon National Park North Rim, Arizona

Sitting here, I think about how, previously, we’ve seen others passing their time at this picture window and thought they were wasting an opportunity when they could have been on the go and capturing so much more outside on the trails. Maybe that was a testament to how much more contemplative those people were as compared to us at the time because here we are today, just like those people, monopolizing the comfy leather couch facing the panorama window.

Rainbow at the Grand Canyon National Park North Rim, Arizona

Just one of the many rainbows we watched come and go.

Grand Canyon National Park North Rim, Arizona

There won’t be a lot of variation in these photos aside from shifting weather and light as our plan to hit the North Kaibab Trail for a few miles of hiking today has been scratched due to the rain and our general satisfaction that not only had we hiked a considerable amount yesterday (about 12 miles), but we have these great seats that seem to be encouraging us to keep them warm (and get some sock knitting done).

Grand Canyon National Park North Rim, Arizona

A funny aside, when people want to step in front of the window we are camping at, they often excuse themselves as though the view was all ours.

Peggy Walker and Caroline Wise at the Grand Canyon National Park North Rim, Arizona

Funnier yet was meeting Larry and Peggy Walker, World Travelers. Larry first tried passing his wife off on me; well, he threatened that she might sit in my lap if I objected to sharing the view. This was followed up by him moving slyly into my spot next to Caroline when I had stood up to snap a photo or two. His smiling face of “Gotcha” was certainly worth a good laugh. It turned out that these two were celebrating their 50th anniversary this week while also accompanying some friends who were renewing their vows in Vegas. Larry and Peggy are just an awesome happy couple and an inspiration to both of us. Hopefully, we, too see our 50th anniversary someday.

Grand Canyon National Park North Rim, Arizona

We sat a bit longer and started to learn that many people want to stop and talk, so contemplative moments are not all that easy to have. With this realization, we consider that it’s time to get moving again, but just then, another weather front is coming in from the east, and I’m curious to watch the canyon disappear again. As we got up after sitting there for close to three hours, we saw that all around us, the trappings that make the lodge a comfy place had been disappearing as the crew, anxious to be finished for the season, had been busy clearing the place out.

Vermilion Cliffs seen from Marble Canyon, Arizona

This must be a record year regarding how many times we’ve passed through the Vermilion Cliffs area, and each encounter is as worthy as any of the other travels through here.

Over the Colorado River on the Navajo Bridge in Marble Canyon, Arizona

I’ve taken countless photos over the years of the Colorado River from the Navajo Bridge but I’m not sure I’ve ever taken one in this kind of light. I took this thought not as yet another iteration of this scene but as an establishing shot of what comes next. First, though, there’s a tiny detail at the top of the cliffside on the right, and while you can’t see it right now, it’ll all become clear in the next photo. Oh, and consider that the bridge we are on is 467 feet (142 meters) over the river below, which should give you some idea about the scale.

Condors at Navajo Bridge in Marble Canyon, Arizona

On the lower right sits an incredibly rare bird, rarer than its parents, above it to the left. That black spot is a fledgling condor born in the wild, one of a small handful. These are just three of the approximately 115 condors that are hopefully still alive in Arizona, and if I had to guess, I’d say that Caroline and I have seen no less than 15 of these giants of the scavenger world or more than 10% of all condors in our state; that’s simultaneously cool and tragic. Think about it: we are barely holding on to the 500 or so California Condors that still exist, although that’s from a low point of just 27 birds left in existence back in 1987. If we are having this difficulty keeping a species of bird with a 10-foot wide wingspan alive, what would make us believe we can keep ourselves going into the future? And if you believe it’s natural selection, the demise of condors was due to humans using lead ammunition for hunting and leaving animals and entrails in the wild where the birds would naturally finish them off. The resulting lead poisoning nearly brought them to extinction.

Rainbow seen over Highway 89 north of Flagstaff, Arizona

Since leaving the remarkable sight of the fledgling, we’ve been hitting intermittent rain, sometimes heavy. Just south of Flagstaff, the intensity of this rainbow demanded we stop. Sadly, the photo does it no justice.

Flagstaff, Arizona

From a distance, we thought we were looking at sun rays shining through the clouds onto the forest that sits on the flank of San Francisco Mountain below Humphry’s Peak, that’s well out of sight. Nope, it wasn’t until we pulled over that we saw the thousands of Aspen trees changing color with the change of season.

Rainbow seen over Highway 17 south of Flagstaff, Arizona

Hmmm, maybe Sedona is the magic place so many believe it is, as here we are at Highway 179, which is the exit for Sedona, and it was double-rainbows all the way.