America – Day 8

About to cross from New York to Vermont

We are up early and ready to go by 6:00 a.m. We are also nearly as far north as we can go without heading into Canada, with Montreal a mere 45 miles away. This is Highway 2, and that bridge just in front of us crosses Lake Champlain and drops us into Vermont.

Hero's Welcome General Store in North Hero, Vermont

Route 2, down through a bunch of islands in Lake Champlain, had hints of being scenic, and so that was the road we traveled. In North Hero, we spotted the Hero’s Welcome General Store; not only was it aesthetically attractive they were serving breakfast: double win.

Joe's Pond, Vermont

Not only is this Joe’s Pond, but it’s in Joe’s Pond, Vermont!

Footbridge over Joe's Brook in West Danville, Vermont

A rare covered footbridge over Joe’s Brook in West Danville, Vermont. It might not be that rare, but it is the first of its kind we’ve ever seen.  This specimen was built in the vintage year of 1977, so while it may not be an antique it will forever be special to us as having the significance of being our first.

Caroline Wise and John Wise visiting Maple Grove Farms of Vermont in Saint Johnsbury

Fortunately, we were traveling with our hair nets for just such a situation, which was lucky in that it allowed us to visit the factory floor at Maple Grove Farms and Museum. Caroline has, on occasion, tried convincing me that I look better in just such a hat, but unless she can find me the exact same kind with an already integrated beard net (not a secondary device), I’m not going for it. The tour through this operation was AMAZING.

Maple Grove Farms factory tour in Saint Johnsbury, Vermont

Caroline probably dreams about this sign as it is an all-time favorite that she’ll reference for years into the future. If it wasn’t for her, I’d probably never have known about the “jazz hands” meme.

Caroline Wise and John Wise at the Welcome to New Hampshire state sign

Today, we are seeing all the states. Lunch was in Gorham, New Hampshire, as we had to do something on our drive across the state. We stopped at Saladino’s Italian Market for some spaghetti and got back on the road. Driving is about all we’ll do today, as Maine is calling. Crap, so is a VW dealer, as we just noticed one of our headlights is out.

Pond in Shelburne, New Hampshire

Blue skies have arrived, and we are greeting it with smiles. I’ve probably said it a hundred other times, but it seems like every day we’ve ever traveled, we see at least some blue sky. This idyllic pond scene comes to you courtesy of Shelburne, New Hampshire, on Highway 2, about five miles from Maine.

Caroline Wise and John Wise at the Welcome to Maine state sign

And in just seconds, we went from New Hampshire to Maine. About 10 miles down the road, we pulled into Bethel, Maine, to find a pay phone and call VW roadside assistance; they told us to visit Augusta, Maine, and that we should make tracks before they closed. So we changed our plans and headed to Augusta. Okay, we don’t have any other plan than to get to the ocean so we can brag to everyone that we’ve seen America coast-to-coast; well, a tiny sliver of it.

Roadside pond somewhere in Maine

After a couple of hours of driving in Maine, we are certain this is the state with the absolutely WORST roads outside of Afghanistan. We arrived in Augusta shortly after 4:00 in the afternoon and, not even 20 minutes later, were back on the road.  An hour later, we were at the coast and ready to shop. In Belfast, we ran into the Purple Baboon, intent on leaving with the greatest souvenir we would collect on this trip because this was the place to do that; the Purple Baboon demanded it. There’s a literary reference here to William S. Burroughs, one of my favorite authors, that is triggering this fervor. Read Naked Lunch if you are interested. Dinner was at the Weathervane Seafood Restaurant, and while Caroline is a vegetarian, she couldn’t resist having shrimp, some amazing clam chowder, swordfish, and some fried smelts & haddock. Note: the Weathervane is now gone, and Nautilus Seafood & Grill is at the location.

Somewhere between Belfast and Trenton, Maine at night

Looking back at Belfast, Maine, after dinner on our way to Trenton, Maine. The first motel we spotted was the Acadia Sunrise Motel, with advertised rates of just $31 a night. We took it and it actually was just $31. We have no shame when it comes to saving money so we can go further and do more. Note: 18 years later, they list rooms starting at $59 a night 🙂

Update: Five years after that last update here in 2023, the rooms at the Acadia Sunrise Motel now start at $109 per night. How’s that for inflation?

America – Day 7

The Knezetic family in approximately 1928 Buffalo, New York

This is the Knezetic family circa 1928. Robert Knezetic and Louisa Priezula were born in Croatia. Louisa went by the name Luba while in Croatia but adopted Lillian after immigrating to the United States through Ellis Island in 1905. Robert was an adopted name, too; he was born Blasius, or Blaz for short. Robert was born in Ozalj, Karlovac, Croatia, on February 1st, 1886. Lillian was born on March 10, 1888; she, too, was from Ozalj. In the back row of this photo is my paternal grandmother Amelia on the left; she was born on October 18, 1918. Next up are John (born Dec 24, 1913), Bob (born Robert on Oct 27, 1912), George (born May 15, 1916), and Frank (born May 29, 1921). Between Robert and Lillian sit Anna and Mike (born Sep 3, 1924).

John Alexander Wise and Amelia Knezetic getting married in Buffalo, New York

This is John Alexander Wise and Amelia Knezetic on their wedding day, they are my paternal grandparents. John Wise was born on December 10, 1918, in Berford, Ontario, Canada. His mom’s name was Hattie, born in 1898, and her husband was Cornelius, born about October 11, 1892, in Blenheim, Oxford County, Canada – my great-grandmother and grandfather. Hattie was also known as Hally. Her mom was Ellen Denby (also known as Alice). Born in 1871, she married John Farrell on September 12, 1887, in Brant, Ontario, Canada.

My great-great-grandfather was Alexander Wise, born June 8, 1837; he was married to my great-great-grandmother Margaret Irving, born April 27, 1859. This side of the family came out of the Ontario, Canada, area. Alexander was known to be of Germanic descent.

Ellen’s father was Richard (Morris) Denby, born June 5, 1837, in England – this would be my great-great-great-grandfather. Richard was married to Sarah (last name possibly Morris, there is confusion in the records); she was born March 22, 1840, in England. These two immigrated to Canada in 1868.

John Farrell’s father was Robert (McLeod) Farrell born in 1844 in Berford, Canada. John was of Irish descent; he married Lydia McLeod (this could be the maiden name; again, the records are not clear).

Lillian Marynowski formerly Wise of Buffalo, New York

Lillian Wise during her senior year in high school. Lillian was named after her grandmother and would share her nickname of Luba, too. Lillian was the older of John and Amelia’s two children.

John Michael Wise Sr. during his senior year of high school in Buffalo, New York

This is my father, John Michael Wise, Sr., born in Buffalo, New York, on March 16, 1945. He inherited an angry temperament, though those who would never know that side of him found him a charming and engaging man. His time on our planet was short, and by the time he was 44 years old in 1989, he was starting to suffer the effects of a hard life. Smoking, factory work, poor diet, and a lot of stress led him to his first heart attack. From that point forward, he would have at least one more heart attack and start to deny the health impacts of being diagnosed with diabetes. Through continued neglect, he ultimately saw his lower extremities removed, and then on February 2, 2003, the same day the space shuttle Columbia blew up, my father exited this world. From my dad, I likely inherited his love of reading, music, and dealing poorly with anger.

Penny and Mike Knezetic on their wedding day in Buffalo, New York

This is Flora “Penny” and Mike Knezetic on their wedding day. They lived their entire lives on Alberta Drive in Buffalo, New York, behind Mike’s older sister, Amelia, and next door for several years to his younger sister, Anna.

Anna Knezetic and Woodrow Burns in Buffalo, New York

Dressed up for someone else’s wedding, these are Anna Knezetic (born in 1926) and Woodrow Burns. However, by this time, I believe they were already married, so this is Mr. and Mrs. Burns to be proper.

Robert and Lillian (Luba) Knezetic in Buffalo, New York

Robert (Blaz) and Lillian (Luba) Knezetic in their last photograph taken together. Robert passed away in 1962, and Lillian the year after.

Hattie Brooks, Lillian Wise, Joe Marynowski, and Lillian (Luba) Knezetic at Lillian and Joe's wedding in Buffalo, New York

On the left is Hattie Brooks (maiden name may have been Denby) with Lillian Wise and Joe Marynowski, who are getting married, and my great grandmother Lillian (Luba) Knezetic on the right, who was a widow by this time. This is the only known photo of Hattie and the last photo taken of Luba.

Family get together in Buffalo, New York

I’d guess that this photo was taken around 1966. In the very front, lying down, is my grandfather John Wise. Sitting on him is one of my cousins with her sister just behind her on her right: this should be Judy and Nancy. Their mom is Jean, who was married to Frank Knezetic (not pictured); she’s the woman seated to the left behind the small dog. Next is Mildred Knezetic married to one of the boys, an unidentified woman, and Bob Knezetic. In the far back row is an unidentified man, Lillian, and Joe Marynowski, I believe that is Anna, followed by Mike and John. Standing in front of Mike should be his son Mike Jr, and the two girls to the far left are most likely Linda and Donna, who are also children of Mike and Penny.

Mike Knezetic and John Wise in Buffalo, New York

Uncle Mike is still living in the same house he’d lived in since getting married. He would pass away five years after this photo was taken, two years after his wife Penny passed.

Engine House No. 26 in Buffalo, New York

Engine House Number 26 in Buffalo bears the family name Kurchhoff on a plaque to the left of the big red door. The name Kurchoff (current spelling) was also found on Millard Fillmore Hospital before it was torn down and several other buildings around the Buffalo area. My family, on the maternal side, was involved with construction and design during the late 19th and early 20th centuries.

44 Fuller St in Buffalo, New York

This is 44 Fuller Street in Buffalo, New York, within walking distance of the Niagara River. It is also the former home of Robert and Lillian Knezetic. We also visited 21 Manchester Place which was the first home of John and Amelia before moving to Delta Road. We also drove by the All Saints Church and School on 127 Chadduck Avenue, where my aunt Lillian fetched my sister and me after my mother abandoned us.

Ted's Hot Dogs are a Buffalo, New York institution

Lunch was at Ted’s Hot Dogs, and while we are so lucky to have the only Ted’s outside of Buffalo in Arizona, there’s nothing like going to one of the originals. Afterward, we went back to Anderson’s Custard for one last taste.

Lillian Marynowski, Caroline Wise, and John Wise in front of 109 Delta Rd in Buffalo, New York

After a short day and a half, we are already taking leave of Buffalo. While I’m delighted to be back here at 109 Delta Road, I’m also conflicted by my history and family dynamics that have left me awkward in these kinds of social situations. I may wish for the kind of family relationships I so often see among others, but sadly, it was never meant to be in my cards. Time to go.

Somewhere near Cold Brook, New York

We headed out of Buffalo in the direction of Albany. We left the I-90 to catch Highway 8 north towards the Adirondack Mountains. Stopped to take this photo near the village of Poland, New York.

Near Cold Brook, New York

Sunset out near Cold Brook, New York

An old church near the Adirondacks in New York

It gets dark early this far north in the fall. From here, we still had more than a few hours of driving before we decided it was time to stop.

Piseco Lake in New York

We believe this is Piseco Lake, but we’re not sure; what we are sure of is that when I shot this image in the fading light, we hadn’t seen the six crosses over at the lakeshore just left of center. Our trip ends tonight in Rouses Point, New York, at the Anchorage Motel on Lake Champlain, just across from Vermont. Guess where we are going in the morning?

I should point out one more thing: today, America went to the voting machines trying to decide who would replace Bill Clinton. Will it be Al Gore or George W. Bush?

America – Day 6

Lillian Marynowski and John Wise Sr. of Buffalo, New York

Arrived at my aunt Lillian’s late last night. This photo is of her and my father, John M. Wise Sr. Yep, I’m a junior, and it’s the first time I’ve seen this picture of the two siblings. Growing up in Buffalo until I moved to California to live with my father, my aunt Lillian and her husband Joe Marynowski were two of my favorites as they always seemed to be laughing or making my sister and I laugh with them. After my mother, Karen Kurchoff, abandoned us at school one morning when we were about 4 and 5, it was the paternal side of my family that cared for us so we could avoid foster care. I tended to understand the situation back then in 1968, with my mom being a mere 19 years old after getting pregnant back in 1962 at the age of 14 with me, but still, I was sent off to live with a man who had his own set of issues. Looking at this photo, I see the potential still beaming in a smile that might have let this boy grow up and enjoy life, but instead, he was likely witnessing behaviors that shaped the way he would deal with his wives and his children into something far less than stellar.

Lillian Marynowski and her grandchildren Jacob and Jonathan Marynowski in Buffalo, New York

My aunt Lillian Marynowski, formerly Wise, and her grandchildren Jacob and Johnathan Marynowski. More than thirty years ago I spent many a day and night in this house as it was the home of John Alexander Wise and Amelia Wise née Knezetic, my paternal grandparents. I have fond memories of being here and can hardly believe that all these years later, I’m peeking in the refrigerator (looking for tapioca my grandma used to make me) and visiting the basement where she scrubbed my grandfather’s collars on a washboard by hand. Where the lamp and picture of Jesus are, there used to be a cabinet, and in the bottom drawer were the games that my grandfather had given me: Lincoln Logs and an Erector Set. I can still remember sitting in the living room (just behind my aunt Lillian) and watching Frankenstein for the first time and falling in love with horror movies, though I also can’t forget burying my face in a pillow for much of the film as it was too scary. Visiting after so many years away brings with it a wave of emotions and memories that in some way were buried and maybe are better left in the past, but here I am in the face of nostalgia for good or bad.

Delta Road and Charlotte Street in Tonawanda Buffalo, NY

The intersection of Delta Road and Charlotte Street in Tonawanda Buffalo, New York. I’ve played on these streets for several years and would walk around the corner to Alberta Drive to visit with my aunt and uncle Annie and Woody Burns and a house or two down Mike and Penny Knezetic and their three children. While Mike and Penny stayed in their house for the rest of their lives, as did my grandparents, Annie and Woody, moved to Goleta, California, which was in part why my father moved to California too. Years later, Annie and Woody would move back to Buffalo just across the street from my cousin Brian Marynowski, who at the time was caring for his mom, my aunt Lillian, in what had been my grandparents’ home.

Caroline Wise stepping into Canada for the first time ever

Caroline Wise is stepping into Canada for the first time. We are on our way to Niagara Falls.

Niagara Falls Panorama from Canadian side

Our first grand view of Niagara Falls is seen from Canada, which happens to have the better views. We’d planned on taking a Maid of the Mist tour out on the water to the foot of the falls, but it had closed for the season only a few days before our arrival.

Caroline Wise and John Wise at the Journey Behind the Falls at Niagara Falls, Canada

One hundred twenty-five feet below the surface, a 130-year-old tunnel system offers visitors a viewing and listening experience of Niagara Falls that shouldn’t be missed.

Journey Behind the Falls viewing platform in Canada

A viewing platform adjacent to the tunnel we were just in offers this incredible view and puts the Falls into a wholly new perspective. While we missed the Maid of the Mist this trip, we’ll come back someday and certainly make the journey to see the Falls from that perspective. The biggest joy for Caroline while here was seeing the incredible number of rainbows that shone brightly in the sun under clear blue skies.

Historic Fort Niagara on Lake Ontario in Youngstown, New York

Welcome to Fort Niagara on Lake Ontario in Youngstown, New York. We cannot believe our luck that the sun is shining, the sky is blue, and it’s a warm 50-degree fall day.

Fort Niagara on Lake Ontario in Youngstown, New York

From the Old Fort Niagara website:

The three flags flown daily above the parade ground symbolize the nations that have held Fort Niagara. Each competed for the support of a fourth nation: the powerful Iroquois Confederacy. The French established the first post here, Fort Conti, in 1679. Its successor, Fort Denonville (1687-88), was equally short-lived. In 1726, France finally erected a permanent fortification with the construction of the impressive “French Castle.” Britain gained control of Fort Niagara in 1759, during the French & Indian War, after a nineteen-day siege. The British held the post throughout the American Revolution but were forced, by treaty, to yield it to the United States in 1796. Fort Niagara was recaptured by the British in 1813. It was ceded to the United States a second time in 1815 at the end of the War of 1812.

Looking out of a cell at Fort Niagara in Youngstown, New York

In all my years of taking photos, this has remained a favorite due to how much it conveys, how much it obscures, and the hints of color that come through.

Back in Buffalo, we spent the late afternoon and evening with Aunt Lillian, who indulged us with visits to two of my childhood favorites: Bocce Club Pizza for dinner and Anderson’s Custard for dessert. There are a few things Buffalo does well, pizza, custard, candy, and Buffalo wings are certainly out front. Brian and his wife Lynn came over and stayed a bit before leaving the kids with Grandma, with whom we talked late into the night. It’s a mixed bag, this going-home stuff.

America – Day 5

Hopewell Culture National Historical Park in Chillicothe, Ohio

We are 2,361 miles from home, and it’s 34 degrees out this morning with ice on our windows. Our first stop is at the Hopewell Cultural Historic Park which features 23 mounds built almost 2,000 years ago right here in what would become Chillicothe, Ohio. The Hopewell people thrived in this area from about 200 BC to AD 500. In the desert, it’s a rare day that we see fog, but this morning, there’s a thin layer over the mounds and a bit more drifting over the nearby Scioto River.

Fog out over the farm near the Scioto river in Ohio

These are the kind of views we live for, well, these and a million others. We’re not far from Laurelville, where we met and talked briefly with a guy who collects hornet nests as a hobby. We’d never seen one before and found them quite interesting, but why someone would collect them, we didn’t know. He also makes apple cider, which is why stopped in the first place. Along the way, we dipped in at Hocking Hills State Park for a pit stop, unaware of what amazing spectacles were hidden in the park. Someday, we must return to Hocking Hills State Park: MUST!

Caroline Wise and John Wise at the Nelsonville Brick Plant in Nelsonville, Ohio

Caroline and I agree this is one of the worst photos we’ve ever taken of ourselves, but it’s the only one we have with the kiln while visiting the Nelsonville Brick Plant. This place was built back in 1877 and closed in 1940.

Downtown Nelsonville, Ohio

I feel like we’ve landed on the real Main Street America, seeing downtown Nelsonville.

Waterfalls on the Muskingum river in McConnelsville, Ohio

This is part of the McConnelsville, Ohio, lock and dam project on the Muskingum River. Back in another age, this place was plied by steamboats. Out on the water, away from the falls, fishermen in small boats can be seen enjoying the day, hopefully as much as we are.

Roadside somewhere in Ohio

This photo was taken somewhere along State Route 60. We are traveling roughly south-easterly toward Marietta, Ohio.

A barn with "Mail Pouch Tobacco" emblazoned on it just north of Marietta, Ohio on State Route 60

This was our first encounter with the “Mail Pouch Tobacco” brand. Turns out that this or a slight variation is emblazoned on barns throughout the area. This one was just north of Marietta, Ohio, as seen from State Route 60.

Caroline Wise in the wheelhouse of a steamboat in Marietta, Ohio

Notice the strict pose from the German after reading the sign, “DO NOT TOUCH ANY CONTROLS PLEASE.” Caroline was not going to be accused of violating international law and being a bad steward of travelers’ diplomacy by acting out of line. This was taken while we were visiting an old steamboat at the Ohio River Museum in Marietta, Ohio.

Fish in the Muskingame river in Marietta, Ohio

As an added attraction, you get to feed carp with bread next to the boat. They get downright greedy! Right after I took this photo, the fish asked, “Why you take my photo, human?”

Knowlton Covered Bridge in Monroe County, Ohio

We took quite a bit of quality time to explore this little corner where the Knowlton Covered Bridge still stands. It was built back in 1887, is 192 feet long, and is only open to pedestrians.

Welcome to West Virginia state sign over the highway

Another one of these locations where we won’t be stopping for a selfie in front of the “Welcome To Our State” signs. This sign even has its own cool bridge, so we get over the disappointment quickly as we drive under this big green arch. For the sake of knowing precisely where we are at this juncture, we crossed the bridge on State Route 2 between Dilles Bottom, Ohio, and Moundsville, West Virginia. On the radio, we are listening to some bluegrass from the Jolly Brothers.

Entering Pennsylvania

More welcoming from the front seat of our speeding car. All state borders should have a pullout for selfies. Vote for it. Welcome to Pennsylvania.

Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania at dusk

Pittsburgh at dusk as we are heading for parts north of here.

Selfie of Caroline Wise and John Wise in front of the Welcome to New York state sign

Five days to make it to New York. It must be due to my being born here that I was drawn to get here sooner rather than later.

Dunkirk, New York

Before we got our first look at Lake Erie here in Dunkirk, New York, we stopped in Ripley for dinner at the Plummer’s Tavern. We tried the lemon fish with coleslaw and would return if we were to travel up this way again.

The giant doll in front of Valvo's Candies in Silver Creek, New York

Not exactly the kind of thing you might want to see when you’ve been out on the road for the better part of 16 hours, but there she stood, “The killer doll girl from the 50s – Dolly Dimples.” Not to besmirch this almost famous roadside attraction, but it did make us ask, WTF is this? Turns out she’s connected to Valvo’s Candies in Silver Creek, New York, and yes, her name really is Dolly Dimples. The next stop is Buffalo, New York – my birthplace.

America – Day 4

Lincoln Boyhood National Monument in Lincoln City, Indiana

On a late fall day, this was how we saw the Lincoln Boyhood National Memorial in Indiana. During our visit, we were the only visitors milling about the cabin, strange for it being a Saturday, though it is still early in the day. There were a couple of chickens wandering about, a couple of cardinals, a blue jay, a woodpecker, and more squirrels than we could shake a stick at. Ranger Zimmermann gave a great talk about the history of the area and Lincoln’s time here.

Caroline Wise and John Wise visiting Santa Claus in Indiana

I just had to stop for this selfie in front of the Santa Claus, Indiana, sign to commemorate the day I peed in Santa Claus. Yep, that’s exactly what I did which is why Caroline has this smirk of disbelief that I would be that juvenile. In my defense, I can only say that being a man, I’m inclined to acts of stupidity that are beyond my control or better sense. Does anyone know if there’s a city in America called Batman?

Caroline Wise and John Wise in front of the Welcome to Indiana state sign

We don’t always get photos where we’d like to due to the time of day, being on a road that isn’t conducive to pulling over, or the sign is missing. So was the case last night as we passed from Missouri into Indiana and couldn’t find the sign in the dark, so here we are, leaving Indiana for Kentucky or maybe Indiana.

Roadside barn in Kentucky

We’ve been zigzagging across the Ohio River, crossing from Cannelton, Indiana, to Hawesville, Kentucky. Somehow, we got to the other side and found this old barn or farmhouse just outside Rome, Indiana. In Derby, while still in Indiana, we stopped to gaze once again upon the Ohio River and then continued to Leavenworth in Indiana as opposed to the one in Kansas. While in Leavenworth, we stopped at a roadside orchard stand and bought some apples, peanuts, and sorghum.

Horseshoe overlook in Leavenworth, Indiana

While in Leavenworth we also visited this horseshoe overlook of the Ohio River with Kentucky just across the way.

Old decrepit bridge over the Blue river in Indiana

This old decrepit bridge just barely stands over the Blue River off the Ohio River Scenic Byway.

Kentucky state sign from the freeway entering Louisville, Kentucky

Trying to avoid main roads and freeways doesn’t always work out, and this once again demonstrates the occasional difficulty in obtaining selfies in front of state signs. After our slow, meandering drive along the Ohio River, it was time to make tracks if we were going to make our destination located further north. Okay, we had no real idea of where we were going, but we weren’t ready to quit, so we just kept driving. I wanted to stop for a photo of me in front of Big Bone Lick State Park just west of the town called Beaverlick, but I wasn’t willing to make the detour; now I wish I had.

Millie's Place in Cincinnati, Ohio

I’d like to tell you that we are suckers for soul food, but the truth is we are foodies and want to try everything. A pit stop at a Starbucks brought us into conversation with a young lady who recommended Millie’s Place here in Cincinnati, Ohio. We left this joint smacking our lips, uttering yum, yum, yum. On leaving Cincinnati, we took Highway 50, which passes through the Mariemont neighborhood; we took note that this is an upscale section of town should we ever need to visit again. Down the 50, we pass through Bainbridge, which is home to the first dental school in America, and of course, the museum would be closed as we were in town. The next stop is the Chillicothe Inn over in Chillicothe, Ohio. Wow, we were booked into room 23 here on Highway 23.

America – Day 3

Bathtub fixture at cheap motel in Atchison, Kansas

We got into Atchison, Kansas, late last night and grabbed the first cheap motel room we could check into. When we woke shortly after 6:00 a.m., we discovered that our shower/bathtub had barnacles growing on a fixture; this was a first and a memory that will always stick with us on the list of lodging atrocities we would encounter on our many trips where cost played a bigger role than comfort or cleanliness.

Amelia Earhart Birthplace Museum in Atchison, Kansas

Guess what’s open at 7:30 in the morning? Not the Amelia Earhart Birthplace Museum. Take a picture to remind us that if we are to visit this corner of America again, we’ll stop in. We did have a nice visit with a ginger cat that meandered over to us for a rub.

Missouri river at dawn in Atchison, Kansas

Our first glimpse of the Missouri River shortly after dawn. We’ll be heading north this morning.

Osange Orange along the road north of Atchison, Kansas

When we spotted this mutant baseball on the side of the road, it screamed out for attention. Neither Caroline nor I had ever seen one of these and could not make heads or tails out of what it might be. If only mobile internet existed, we’d be able to search for what it is, but we don’t even have a GPS or a cell phone. We do have a paper map but it doesn’t have a roadside guide to strange plants or fruits find on the way to your destination. It turns out that this super sticky grapefruit-sized ball of latex that was almost impossible to open is an Osage orange.

Caroline Wise standing in front of the Jesse James Home in St. Joseph, Missouri

Guess what’s open at 8:45 in the morning? Not the Jesse James Home. Well, at least we’re getting a good orientation of what’s where here on our cross-country road trip. We see the Psychiatric Museum as we are passing through St. Joseph, Missouri, and make note that we should investigate if it’s worth a visit. What brought us to St. Joe in the first place was that an old friend of ours named Mark Shimer grew up here hating it, seemed like a good enough reason to drive through.

Truman Home visitors center in Independence, Missouri

Disillusioned with St. Joseph and only able to find a McDonald’s and the stupid Egg McMuffin available for breakfast, we leave disheartened. Maybe a visit to the closed Psychiatric Museum could have helped alleviate the anguish, but they were as open as everything else we were trying to visit way too early in the day. We turned the car south and headed for the Missouri River, figuring that might be a scenic route. On the way, we spot the signs directing us to Independence, Missouri, and the many homes of President Truman. He seems to have moved around a lot as a youngster. Now, with something finally open, we opt not to go on the tour as though we started this journey with the idea of not being beholden to the clock; something is prodding us to go east. So we leave.

The Missouri river in Missouri

For hours we do our best to trace a path along the Missouri River and occasionally are rewarded with great views.

Rhineland, Missouri along the Missouri river

This is a tiny village of 217 acres and, according to the 2000 census, 176 people. It is called Rhineland, and we had to stop because of Germany. There were no wurst stands, no wine, no autobahn. It seems like they simply borrowed the name and forgot to bring the culture. Not even a bit of good bread.

A barn along the Missouri river somewhere in Missouri

A cool barn that appears to be on a fertile floodplain of the Missouri River. Probably not a great place to hang out during floods.

Caroline Wise and John Wise stopping for a selfie in front of a Lewis & Clark trail sign in Missouri

This is the first time EVER that Caroline and I stopped at a sign designating that we were on the Lewis and Clark Trail, but it won’t be the last. Hmmm, I wonder if my beard will one day turn gray?

John Wise at the Missouri Meerschaum Company

Guess what’s open at 4:30 in the afternoon? Not the Missouri Meerschaum Company. I wanted a corncob pipe, and I wanted one bad because I had some stuff to smoke and only a corncob pipe was going to do. Instead, I have to leave empty-handed. While we found some corncob pipes somewhere else in Washington, Missouri, I couldn’t be certain that they weren’t cheap Chinese knockoffs. Damn it.

Gateway Arch in St. Louis, Missouri

We’ve reached the Gateway Arch in St. Louis. Sure, it would probably photograph better in the middle of the day while the sun glistens on the metal frame, but today, in the middle of America, nothing is open. Hey, how about a ride up to the viewing platform in the Arch? Oh yeah, it just closed for the day.

Caroline Wise and John Wise in front of Gateway Arch in St. Louis, Missouri

This was the last time I ever let someone else take my photo instead of just shooting a selfie. Do I look fat here? From the Arch, we headed over to a vegetarian place operated by some devotees of Hare Krishna called Govinda’s. Great food and a nice environment for a place without meat. In case you didn’t know, Caroline is in a vegetarian phase, and after some initial struggle from me, we get along with me forsaking the flesh from time to time. With a burst of energy, we pointed the car towards Indiana and took off. The next stop was the Amoco Motel in Haubstadt, Indiana. Only our third day out, and we are now almost 2000 miles from home.