America – Day 14

Barn on highway 60 west of Amherst, Virginia

When we left the Richmond area, it was overcast with sporadic rain. By the time we were passing through Amherst, Virginia, where we spotted this barn, the weather had turned in our favor. Before leaving for our drive west on the 60, we felt that the two Waffle Houses near our hotel were a sign that we had to eat at Waffle House, so we ate at Waffle House, but only once, not at both.

Long Mountain Wayside near the Appalachian Trail in Virginia

We stopped to inspect the hornet nest hopeful we’d spot some in the wild, but the nest was empty like so many of the places we’ve tried visiting on this trip that was closed. Nearby within 2 minutes is the Appalachian Trail, but at that time, we had no idea. A little further up the road was the Blue Ridge Parkway, again, we were oblivious of its presence.

Close to the Blue Ridge Parkway in Virginia

Based on the time stamp on this photo, we were likely very close to the Blue Ridge Parkway. Years would go by, but ultimately, we would return to drive sections of this national treasure of road that stretches for 469 miles from North Carolina north to Virginia.

Welcome to West Virginia on the way to White Sulphur Srings

The “Welcome to West Virginia” state sign is right over Interstate 64, where the speed limit is 70 miles per hour. There will be no getting out of the car for a selfie in the middle of the road. We note that we’ve now driven 5,429 miles since leaving Phoenix.

Statue for the "Confederate Dead" somewhere in West Virginia

Kind of strange being in a place that is celebrating the side that lost instead of putting the past to rest and joining the rest of the country, but what do we know? We are listening to NPR, which is recognizing Aaron Copland’s 100th birthday today, and broadcasting performances of “Fanfare to the Common Man” and “Appalachian Spring.” We keep the windows up so nobody hears the Yankees listening to a New York composer and a liberal radio station. I should point out that we do love bluegrass and hillbilly music too.

Another farm in West Virginia

What a gorgeous day and a fantastic landscape.

Hawks Nest State Park overlook in West Virginia

This view is from an overlook of Hawks Nest State Park in Ansted, West Virginia, on Route 60. Though we are heading west, we are in no hurry to get back home, just so you know that.

Kanawha Falls near the Gauley Bridge West Virginia

The Kanawha Falls and power station is supplied by the Gauley and New Rivers just upstream a couple of miles. There are so many places on this trip we would return to years after we finished our first cross-country excursion. Places like the Gauley River we would learn more about from Bruce Keller, who would be our guide on whitewater river trips down the Colorado in the Grand Canyon and the Alsek up in Alaska. On a subsequent trip, we’ll eat fiddlehead ferns at Kitchen Little in Mystic, Connecticut, or spend some quality time in both New York City and Washington D.C. in addition to returns to Maine, Boston, Baltimore, and first-time visits to Philadelphia, Montreal, and New Bedford in Massachusetts following the reading of Moby Dick. This trip will be the cement that enthralled us with the idea that we could travel from coast to coast and seek out the places we found intriguing.

Dilapidated old house next to the road in West Virginia

I have a soft spot for ruins and would stop at every single one if time allowed. This one was right next to the road in West Virginia.

Welcome back to Kentucky state sign

Returning to Kentucky drives home the idea that we are essentially heading back toward home. Well, I’m sure we’ll discover 1000 more amazing moments before we get there.

Meadowthorpe Cafe in Lexington, Kentucky

A FedEx driver up the road in Lexington recommended we stop for some dinner at the Meadowthorpe Cafe, turns out it was a great recommendation. It’s not always easy to find out about the way local eats when we’re out on the road. Matter of fact, I think that’s why we hear so many people gripe about long drives; they are confronted with the same hotel chains, the same McDonalds, Taco Bells, and Dennys, the same gas stations, and broad freeways that, while moving people quickly, make the landscape feel monotonous. Who knows what we ate here, as we didn’t take notes about it other than “fast, good, and cheap.” (Caroline says it was a southern-style grub; she’s probably right.) Our motel was about a half-hour out of town, a cheap joint called the Turfmor Motel in Wilmore, Kentucky. On the way to our motel, we passed the Mary Todd Lincoln House in Lexington, which, of course, was closed.

America – Day 13

Marine Corps War Memorial near Arlington National Cemetery in Washington D.C.

Waking up to the U.S. Marine Corps War Memorial this morning. Not much else to say here but “Oorah!”

Graves of John and Jacqueline Kennedy at Arlington National Cemetery in Washington D.C.

At Arlington National Cemetery, we walked the grounds for a good while before heading over to the Eternal Flame at John and Jacqueline Kennedy’s gravesite.

Carousel Billy Goat at National Museum of American History in Washington D.C.

I wasn’t going to post this picture of another goat, this one a billy from a carousel that went round and round, immovable and fixed in time….again another metaphor for those who sit in these seats of power. The reason I wasn’t going to share it was that it’s not very compelling on its own, but I couldn’t find this anywhere else on the internet, so I’m thinking that this might be the only photo that exists of this carousel Billy goat at the National Museum of American History. Funny how everything here in D.C. seems to be a reminder of something that has been as opposed to showing us what can be.

China Town in Washington D.C.

For everything that Washington D.C. might be missing, culture is not one of them. This is a cultural melting pot with people from around the world seen walking these streets. Due to the abundance of diplomatic missions, it seems like foods from around the globe are also present. While Chinatown here has a wonderful gate, there’s not much more to the place than that, at least from our cursory observation. This is definitely not Chinatown from San Francisco or even Los Angeles.

Annapolis, Maryland

This was the best we could do in seeing Annapolis in Maryland. While it comes highly recommended, we have other plans for the rest of the day and will leave this for another visit.

Caroline County, Maryland on the Chesapeake Bay

This is why we couldn’t spend more time in Annapolis: Caroline County! Just kidding, we are driving down along the Chesapeake Bay and are looking forward to the wetlands and quiet after the crowds of D.C.

Ferry at Wicomico River in Whitehaven, Maryland

This is the ferry crossing at 23865 River St. near Route 352 in Whitehaven, Maryland. Just one car at a time gets taken over the Wicomico River.

Caroline Wise and John Wise on a ferry over the Wicomico River in Whitehaven, Maryland

These are what faces look like on their very first ferry crossing in America. The Chesapeake Bay is beautiful, even on a cloudy day.

Narrow bridge just the other side of the ferry in Whitehaven, Maryland

Just after arriving on the other side of our ferry adventure, we have this rickety old wooden bridge to contend with.

Welcome to Virginia state sign

Spent quite a bit of time in the wetlands of Maryland before reaching Virginia, where we were getting nervous it would be dark by the time we saw (or didn’t see) our next landmark.

Susan's Seafood in New Church, Virginia

Caroline is a sucker for signs; the wackier, the better. Had to stop at Susan’s Seafood to snap a photo for our memory books. We didn’t get anything to eat here, so we’ll have to reserve an opinion on that, but we might be back, especially after I read the glowing reviews. Along the way, we also passed the world’s largest decoy factory and another sign at a repair shop that read, “We fix anything but a broken heart.”

It’s dark, seriously dark, by the time we reach the Chesapeake Bay Bridge and Tunnel. So, while we can’t see much from the top of the bridge, these tunnels are amazing while simultaneously being kinda creepy as we plunge below the bay. Once back on the mainland, we headed for Hampton, Virginia, where we had the once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to eat at The Grate Steak, where we got to cook our own steak (or veggie burger). Our hotel was the Legacy Inn by the airport in Richmond, Virginia. We are exhausted and crash well before midnight, as we have asked for a 5:30 wake-up call.

America – Day 12

Caroline Wise and John Wise in front of the White House in Washington D.C.

Today will be a walking day, and we are lucky to have the perfect weather for it. Our first stop was the White House. The excitement of being here in Washington, D.C., is palpable. As a child, I dreamed of one day visiting the nation’s capital, and here I am. You might have guessed my excitement level from the smile on my face.

The White House in Washington D.C.

The other side of the White House. Someday, we will have to go through the protocol to request a visit to this historic residence, someday.

The Washington Monument as seen from across the Tidal Basin in Washington D.C.

We walked across the National Mall and made our first visit to the Lincoln Memorial, then walked out past the Vietnam and Korean War Veterans Memorials before heading to the Tidal Basin for this spectacular view of the Washington Monument.

Franklin Delano Roosevelt Memorial next to the Tidal Basin in Washington D.C.

I knew a man ever so briefly who cared for President Roosevelt and ensured his smoldering cigarette never caught the White House on fire when he was heading to bed. My great-uncle played a role in the lives of several presidents and always remained loyal to his oath of confidentiality throughout his life. This, though, was his favorite of all the men he served in his time of service to our country and the White House.

Bronze of President Jefferson at the memorial honoring his contribution to the United States

President Thomas Jefferson was and is one of my favorite presidents, not just for his eloquence in crafting documents that have held strong for a couple of hundred years but for his renaissance nature of being curious about many things, peoples, and cultures throughout his life. If only today we had statesmen who had the intelligence, foresight, and ambition this leader had. From draftsman of the Declaration of Independence, governor of Virginia, minister to France, to the man who set Lewis & Clark out on an expedition to the unexplored West, allowed for the Louisiana Purchase, and was the third U.S. president. We make a note to someday visit Monticello in Virginia.

Jefferson Memorial in Washington D.C.

The Jefferson Memorial on a beautiful fall day.

The United States Capitol building in Washington D.C.

It was a circuitous route that brought us to the U.S. Capitol building. First, we walked by the Bureau of Engraving and Printing before rejoining the National Mall for an up-close look at the Washington Monument. Next up was the Air & Space Museum, where we took a photo of us standing in front of the Spirit of St. Louis with the plane perfectly in focus and us perfectly out of focus. Then we headed to the Capitol. Have you noticed what an incredibly beautiful day it is?

Inside the Natural History Museum in Washington D.C.

This felt like the perfect metaphor for how things get done here in the United States. The human skeleton represents one side of the population, and the obstinate goat is on the other side; neither side wants to do what the other wants, but somewhere in the middle, a compromise is made. This display was at the Natural History Museum, which is part of the Smithsonian. In our limited time at the museum, we were also able to take in some mummies, dinosaur bones, diverse rocks, and minerals, along with the Hope diamond.

Benjamin Franklin in front of the Old Post Office in Washington D.C.

From Benjamin Franklin, I learned what a polymath was, and from a young age, I knew I wanted to be just like him. His accomplishments are too broad for me to capture here; better if you just go read a Wikipedia article or a book about this great American.

Ford's Theatre in Washington D.C.

The site of the demise of President Abraham Lincoln, our 16th president. Ford’s Theatre is a grim reminder that even great people can be vulnerable to the anger of the person who sees no other way to settle a grievance. We not only visited the inside of the theater, taking note of the Presidential Box where John Wilkes Booth assassinated Lincoln, but we also went across the street to the Petersen House and saw the location where Lincoln passed after he was taken there.

Lincoln Memorial in Washington D.C.

After visiting the sad and tragic site where a beloved president was murdered, it was time to revisit the Lincoln Memorial to take a moment to think about the founding of the United States and the turmoil we have endured so we could be a leading example of what is to be a nation of laws and order.

Abraham Lincoln seated in the Lincoln Memorial in Washington D.C.

This is the man I learned about, who was a self-taught lawyer, an autodidact who inspired me as a child that I could learn anything and become anything I set my sights on. Lincoln failed twice in business before turning 25 years old; he failed eight times running for public office. Yet he persevered and, with determination, became one of the most memorable presidents in the history of the United States. I had a lump in my throat standing before the statue of this great man, and I again have a lump in my throat as I write this.

The White House at night in Washington D.C.

Dinner, sadly, was not at the White House. We took the Metro to Foggy Bottom and walked the rest of the way to Georgetown for a meal at an Indian restaurant. We finished up the night with one last glance at the Washington Monument and then a slow walk past the White House, hoping for the odd chance we’d see President Clinton out smoking a cigar or something.

America – Day 11

Ephrata Cloister in Ephrata, Pennsylvania

Like so many other times on this trip, so far, places are either closed for the season or are on shorter hours, and we simply arrive too early. This is the Ephrata Cloister in Ephrata, Pennsylvania. Conrad Beissel, a man of German descent, was Ephrata’s founder and established this corner of Pennsylvania as somewhere he felt he could live as a hermit. By the early 1750s, Beissel was no longer alone, having attracted nearly 80 others who chose the ascetic life of celibacy and self-discipline. Mark this cloister as somewhere we need to return to.

Beaver Street in Lancaster, Pennsylvania

From beautiful architecture to a frightening neighborhood of row houses that have the feeling of a kind of poverty Caroline and I do not typically encounter. Mind you, we’ve been on and near skid-row in downtown Los Angeles and have witnessed poverty on more than a few Native American reservations, but something is foreboding about how people are packed into such a small area.

Lancaster County Prison in Lancaster, Pennsylvania

One can’t help but take the situation in this area and play stereotypes with assumptions, such as the idea that too many of the kids growing up in neighborhoods such as the one just above end up here in this prison. This is not the idyllic side of the area often associated with the farmlands of the Amish.

Row houses in Lancaster, Pennsylvania

More row houses. While certainly an upgrade from the other neighborhood, these have a scuffed appearance. I would love to have seen this area in its prime when the industrial/farming economy was bustling, and these homes were brand new.

Farmers Market in Bird-in-Hand, Pennsylvania

Two things are striking about this photo, first, fresh food is for people over 40, and second, the diversity in these farmer’s markets is shocking when compared to what we know from Arizona. This market was in Bird-in-Hand, Pennsylvania, and while we certainly didn’t leave empty-handed, we no longer know exactly what we left with (Caroline remembers apple Schnitz and a big coffee cake). We need some Amish farmers to move to Arizona; as a matter of fact, everyone in America needs some local Amish to help fill their pantries.

Amish buggy on the way to Intercourse, Pennsylvania

We can now officially claim that we’ve been to Amish country as we are witnessing our first horse-drawn buggy in traffic. The next souvenir will be the obligatory yellow “buggy crossing” sign refrigerator magnet.

Amish farm in Lancaster County, Pennsylvania

Wow, a real Amish farm in Lancaster County, Pennsylvania! How do I know it’s an Amish farm, you ask? Do you see any electrical wires running to that property? There are also no signs of vehicles such as tractors out there either. The only thing missing from this scene is the horse-drawn plow with a bearded man dressed in black behind it.

Hans Herr House in Lancaster County, Pennsylvania

This is the oldest house left standing in Lancaster County; it is the Reverend Hans Herr’s house. Hans was born in Zurich, Switzerland, in 1639 and was the first Mennonite bishop to emigrate to America. He sailed to America at 70 years old, and within ten years, his son Christian Herr built this house in 1719. What struck us about all of this is that it has been documented that at least 13,223 people were claiming to be direct lineal descendants of Hans Herr as of 1994.

Fall colors in Lancaster County, Pennsylvania

The colors of fall.

James Buchanan's house in Wheatland, Pennsylvania

Those faces should be disappointed, but we got lucky today. A wedding was getting ready to take place, but our sad story about being so far away from home and wanting to visit our first Presidential home did not fall on deaf ears. George was now our gracious and super informative guide on a quick tour of the James Buchanan home called Wheatland in Lancaster County, Pennsylvania. Buchanan was our 15th president, preceding Abraham Lincoln. American history for the win.

Welcome to Maryland state sign

It’s just a two-state day, so it doesn’t feel like we’re working hard enough. Maryland is welcoming us.

The Capitol building in Washington D.C.

Okay, two states and the District of Columbia! Earlier in the day, we’d decided to bypass D.C. as we figured it would be another congested version of New York City. At the last minute, we changed our minds in Baltimore and pointed the car to our nation’s capital. Our first motel was such a disaster that we asked for a refund; the next place was only 10 minutes from the White House and much better. Excited to explore this place in the morning.

America – Day 10

View of the Atlantic from Pilgrim Sands Hotel in Plymouth, Massachusetts

I may as well give away the secret: today’s weather will be poor all day. If there was a speck of blue sky, we missed it. There is a good view of the ocean, though, and that makes up for the disappointment that the sun has dipped out.

Atlantic ocean wildlife

This penguin is in disguise as a seagull, those black tail feathers are the giveaway. Maybe I should choose a day from this trip and just lie about everything? In town here in Plymouth, we stopped for some coffee at Lalajava and tried their cranberry nut cream coffee, good stuff, and so we make a note to get on the internet when we get home and order some. (We never did do that, and as of 2018, as I’m back-filling these blog entries, they are out of business)

The somewhat controversial rock that is claimed to be "the" Plymouth Rock in Plymouth, Massachusetts

So this is the alleged “Plymouth Rock” that is not likely the landing spot of anyone from the Mayflower. The problem with the story is that no pilgrims ever mentioned the existence of this disembarkation point in any writings. It wasn’t until 121 years later that someone started the myth that this was the very spot where these early pilgrims set foot in North America. So, while it is interpreted as a symbol of that early colonization, its factual historical significance is relative.

Cranberry bog in Massachusetts

Our first sighting of a cranberry bog. You can bet this elicited a stronger curiosity than the rock in the previous picture. We also passed the Ocean Spray World of Cranberries headquarters. Apparently, we are in cranberry country.

Rhode Island state sign

Sadly, we just weren’t motivated enough to go stand in the rain and try to grab a selfie in front of the Rhode Island state sign. Welcome to the smallest state in America from the car.

Caroline Wise and John Wise in Rhode Island

We needed to do something to commemorate being in the smallest state in America, and so during a break in the rain, I made this WTF face after wondering how Caroline made herself blurry.

Connecticut state sign

I had to catch this Connecticut Welcomes You sign while driving down the road. Anyone who knows me probably knows I giggled at the “Town of Stonington” part of the sign.

Somewhere in Connecticut

This Connecticut place is kinda pretty, even on a drab gray day. At least the rain let up.

Mystic Seaport in Mystic, Connecticut

We arrive too close to the museum closing, and with the weather what it is, we decide we’ll have to wait for another day to visit the Mystic Seaport. We are disappointed but certain we’ll return. Something I should point out about this cross-country journey we are on, this is more an orientation of discovery to get a better idea of the lay of the land known as the United States. If we don’t get to a particular place, that’s okay because this is just the scouting exercise.

Entering New York City

I didn’t think for one second that while the majority of our trip had been rural and that we’d kind of freaked out in Boston due to the congestion, we might have the same reaction in New York City. Heck, this was so exciting, this idea of us visiting the Big Apple together for the first time, that the thrill propelled us right in. From entering Manhattan via the Bronx, we head south, making our way over to the Hudson Parkway. Wow, we’re on Broadway!

Sign pointing to Brooklyn

Okay, that was a supremely bad idea with the concert of beeping horns and bumper-to-bumper traffic. We headed for the exit leaving Manhattan via Brooklyn and then crossed over to Staten Island on the Verrazano-Narrow Bridge.

View of the New York City skyline

This was the best handheld shot I could get of NYC from Staten Island before we tried to put even more distance between us and the chaos.

White Castle Burgers in New Jersey

I’d only ever had these from the frozen food aisle at some random grocery store out West; they suck fresh and in person too. What do people see in White Castle? They need In-N-Out Burger.

It’s 10:00 p.m. when we enter Pennsylvania, our fifth state today. It will be 11:45 before we finally find a Ramada Inn in Reading, Pennsylvania. We must have stopped at half a dozen other motels that were all sold out. We are tired.

America – Day 9

Caroline Wise and John Wise at Frenchman Bay in Acadia National Park, Maine

We live for being next to the water. Everything feels perfect when we are at the coast including here at Frenchman Bay in Acadia National Park.

Panorama of Frenchman Bay in Acadia National Park, Maine

Our old Sony camera only shot 1600×1200 pixels during this trip, but the magic of Photoshop stitching images together let us resolve things just a wee bit better. Here’s Frenchman Bay from side to side. Click the image or click here to load a larger view to see more detail.

Acadia National Park near Bar Harbor, Maine

Hours could pass, and as long as the weather stays dry, we’d be happy as clams to just walk along the shore all day.

Acadia National Park near Bar Harbor, Maine

The distinctive look between the northwest Pacific coast and here is striking. After Oregon, Maine might be the next choice of where we’d love to live. The only problem with living out this way might be the roads, though the area around Bar Harbor is fairly maintained. Maybe someday we can spend some months up here and get a better idea of what things are like in winter and summer.

Mushroom in Acadia National Park near Bar Harbor, Maine

There’s certainly a lot more here than just the sea, but it takes some serious effort to avert our eyes from that body of water that seems to be calling us.

Mushroom in Acadia National Park near Bar Harbor, Maine

I have no idea what this is, but it looks yummy, though I’ll bet a dollar it doesn’t taste as good as it looks.

Cadillac Mountain in Mushroom in Acadia National Park near Bar Harbor, Maine

The strong wind makes the peak of Cadillac Mountain in Acadia National Park brutally cold. We are only at 1,533 feet above sea level, which is called a hill out west, but out here on the east coast, this is a mountain and it’s the highest point on the U.S. Atlantic coast. While the thermometer reads 42 degrees, I’d bet that with the wind chill factor, it’s not a degree over 10. Quick, let’s jump back in the car!

Cadillac Mountain in Mushroom in Acadia National Park near Bar Harbor, Maine

A panoramic view from near the peak of Cadillac Mountain. Click here or the image to see a larger view.

Near Bar Harbor, Maine

Finally, it was time for breakfast, so we headed back to Bar Harbor for something to eat at Rika’s Family Restaurant. Our server tells us how Bar Harbor becomes a ghost town this time of year, and during the summer, it’s difficult to move down the street because the crowds are so thick. This feast or famine situation makes things difficult for those who can’t winter down in Florida or over in Arizona, where most of the town is already. Afterward, we stroll down the street searching for the refrigerator magnet we must find. We found a magnet but also a ceramic tile of the Bass Harbor Head Lighthouse so now we’ll have to head that way and witness it for ourselves.

On the way to Southwest Harbor by Tremont, Maine

With the sun out and blue skies, the Atlantic Ocean shimmers in beauty. We are on the way to Southwest Harbor out towards Tremont, where the Bass Harbor Head Lighthouse is situated.

On the way to Southwest Harbor by Tremont, Maine

Moving slowly along the coast as we find places to stop and explore the shore. I should point out that these rocks can be slippery: my butt found out the hard way as I went down flat on them.

Bass Harbor Head Lighthouse on the Maine coast

This was the best view we could muster of the lighthouse. It was built back in 1858 and is located in Tremont, Maine.

Caroline Wise and John Wise with a snail we named "State of Maine" that we got as our reminder at the Purple Baboon in Belfast, Maine

So this was the souvenir we ended up with from Purple Baboon over in Belfast. We named this snail “State of Maine.” You might also notice we are traveling with a Kodama hanging in the window just behind Caroline. The Kodama are spirits from Japanese folklore that inhabit trees, similar to the dryads from Greek mythology, with the name dryads being the basis for the plant dryas, which will figure in a couple of our trips in the future after we go to Alaska and the Yukon, but that’s 12 years from now so I’ll wait to write about that stuff then. This particular Kodama was featured in the film Princess Mononoke.

Around this time, we also returned to Belfast for some lunch at the Maine Chowder & Steak House and then pointed the car towards Camden, where we made note that we would have to visit this small village on a subsequent trip.

Witch Dungeon Museum in Salem, Massachusetts

Before reaching Salem, Massachusetts, and the closed-for-the-day Witch Dungeon Museum, a guy at a gas station in Maine recommended that we visit both Annapolis and Mystic Seaport. From Salem, we drive into Lynn (established in 1629) and believe we are in the land of hairdressers, doughnut shops, roast beef dives, pizza joints, and Chinese restaurants. It should also be known as the place of the world’s smallest street signs.

Sumner Tunnel in Boston, Massachusetts

Boston is a madhouse of traffic anarchy, and this tunnel is no better. Only $2 to pass through Sumner Tunnel with our nerves already frayed, and then here comes an emergency vehicle forcing all of us to merge right in a tunnel that was already bumper to bumper. We looked for the area of the Boston Tea Party so we could see it in the dark while it was closed too, but we never found it.

Boston skyline at night in Massachusetts

Leaving Boston behind, we head for a quieter destination to stop for the night; Plymouth sounds interesting, so we’ll invest the hour and drive south. Once in Plymouth (yep, that one made famous by a rock), we stopped at Plymouth House of Pizza for dinner and then checked into the Pilgrim Sands Motel with an ocean view!