Native Lands in AZ, NM, CO – Day 3

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Southwest Colorado

The beautiful San Juan mountains are just astonishing, and on a calm morning, seeing these colors reflected in still waters was a kind of eye candy that only out of the perfection of nature can such a scene be realized.

Southwest Colorado

Funny how just as quickly as we reach our ultimate destination, we are already heading back the other way, not that it won’t be loaded with detours such as this particular view along the Million Dollar Highway in southwest Colorado.

Southwest Colorado

Beaver dams are incredible works of engineering that blow my mind that a furry little 40-pound semi-aquatic mammal can construct a dam that holds back so much water and radically alters our landscape building new ecosystems along the way. It’s truly a shame that we hunted them nearly to extinction in Europe and carelessly took all we wanted here in America for fashion when beaver pelt hats were all the rage. I’m yet to see one of these elusive animals in the wild, but it’s not for lack of trying.

Southwest Colorado

As gorgeous as the landscape is, I can’t help but ponder how people of European descent got to claim these lush lands while the original Native American settlers of North America have been pushed to the most inhospitable lands the country has to offer. While I love the sights of the Navajo Nation and Hopi Reservations, they are very arid places that make everything about living there difficult.

Shiprock, New Mexico

We are back in New Mexico, passing through Shiprock, named after this inselberg or monadnock in the distance. A monadnock is an isolated rock hill, knob, ridge, or small mountain that rises abruptly from a gently sloping or virtually level surrounding plain. To the Navajo, it is known as Tsé Bitʼaʼí, meaning “rock with wings” or “winged rock,” and is a sacred site.

Navajo Reservation, Arizona

These landscapes carve out a place in our senses as deep as they stand out in our vision. Our good fortune of being able to place ourselves in such dramatically beautiful locations is a bit of luck that it seems many cannot appreciate. I can only say this due to how many times we are asked how we endure the monotony of the open road, as though sights like this don’t leave indelible impressions.

Native Lands in AZ, NM, CO – Day 2

JWise Photo of the Day, Travels

Chaco Culture National Historical Park in New Mexico

I’ve probably told this story once too many times, but these trips of discovery where we careen through the landscape with the sole objective of becoming oriented with what’s what and what’s where are sometimes tinged with a tiny bit of regret that we don’t have more time to immerse ourselves in a place that is so fascinating that a couple of hours will never do justice to our experience and knowledge. Chaco Culture National Historical Park is just one of those places.

Caroline Wise and John Wise at Chaco Culture National Historical Park in New Mexico

There’s an enormous amount of history to learn of here and the complexes that make up this abandoned site. From ground level to the kivas below and above the cliffs where ancient trails and other structures beckon our attention, we will not be able to do justice to understanding the smallest fraction of Chaco and what it meant to the early Puebloans and other indigenous peoples who may have visited here so many years and centuries ago.

Chaco Culture National Historical Park in New Mexico

Chaco is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and deservedly so. Until the 19th century, Chaco had the largest man-made buildings in North America, and to stand here among the millions of stones that were carefully placed in order to build such structures leaves us in awe. Fortunately, this northwest corner of New Mexico is only about 360 miles from where we live, and hopefully, that will allow us to return again.

Chaco Culture National Historical Park in New Mexico

How many hands over how many years chipped away at these rocks in order to make relatively uniform sizes that could be fitted together to make these walls? Some of the structures were up to four stories tall, and it has been estimated that Chetro Ketl alone was made up of as many as 50 million hand-placed stones.

Southwest Colorado

Our drive out of New Mexico takes us into Colorado to the old mining town of Silverton, this was along the way.

Native Lands in AZ, NM, CO – Day 1

JWise Photo of the Day, Travels

66 Motel in Holbrook, Arizona

I’m finally going to teach Caroline a lesson, as she’s been pestering me to stay at one of these old-timey Route 66 joints. I had warned her multiple times about the poor condition and run-down nature of these cheapo motels, but she persisted. Then last night, on our way down Interstate 40 in Holbrook, Arizona, I spotted a place that was super cheap at $19.95 a night, and I figured super bad. Matter of fact it was so bad the person at the desk let us have the room for our late check-in for only $16.95. My smug attitude was singing, “Well, this will teach her!” The thing is, I was the one taught the lesson when I realized that this place wasn’t half bad and that we were saving so much money was great too, in that it allowed Caroline to add to her souvenir budget, not that I’d be any more willing to stop at gift shops.

Navajo Nation Fair in Window Rock, Arizona

Wow, I never thought I’d go to a Native American parade, but here I am on the Navajo Reservation by Window Rock for the annual Navajo Nation Fair. There are more pickup trucks here per capita than maybe anywhere else in America, including Texas. There is also an abundance of roadside food vendors cooking up mutton and offering roasted pine nuts.

Navajo Nation Fair in Window Rock, Arizona

Small-town parades are the best. While the Macy’s Thanksgiving Day and Rose parades are ones of grandeur and spectacle, these parades out in the middle of our country are hometown affairs featuring local talent and simple pride.

Navajo Nation Fair in Window Rock, Arizona

Yei Bi Chei (Yébîchai) dancers perform the “Night Chant” in the healing ceremony of the Diné. The word “Diné” translates to “The People” among those we call the Navajo.

Navajo Nation Fair in Window Rock, Arizona

There is so much we do not understand, such as how to interpret the various motifs and symbolic elements that represent important aspects of the Diné and their culture. Cultural imperialism is a tragedy that shows no end; if the dominant culture cannot crush a people, it can simply push it to the margin ignoring its existence and thus removing it from our group consciousness.

Navajo Nation Fair in Window Rock, Arizona

An incredible burst of color and spirit while the pow-wow drums keep time and the nation of the Navajo comes out to celebrate their heritage. How can this be shared with others who could help make events such as this part of the mainstream where people would travel the world to be here on such momentous days?

Arches to Canyonlands – Day 4

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Calf Canyon Bed & Breakfast in Bluff, Utah

We loved staying here with Duke and Sarah Hayduk, who own and operate the Calf Canyon Bed & Breakfast. Dinner last night was at the Cow Canyon Trading Post. We’ve been so impressed that we put this on a future itinerary to bring Caroline’s mom back to both of these locations.

Northern Arizona on the Hopi Reservation

Back in Arizona, I believe this is the Hopi Reservation though it could be the Navajo as the two are neighbors.

Northern Arizona on the Hopi Reservation

One of my all-time favorite photos as it captures the openness of this Native American land in the most beautiful way to my eyes. I believe this, too, was on Hopi Lands, but again it might just be the Navajo Nation.

Painted Desert in Northern Arizona

The area is called the Painted Desert. When I was about six or seven years old, my Uncle Woody and Aunt Ann drove across America with my Aunt Lillian and sister Shari as Woody and Ann were moving to Santa Barbara, California. I was in the big moving van with my uncle at the wheel, and my sister was with my two aunts in a Cadillac. This is one of the first big memories I kept from that trip. The other standout memory was the cheap motel with the sound of the freight train passing by as though it were coming through our front door.

Caroline Wise on the Mogollon Rim in Northern Arizona

We used to drive a giant gas hog of a vehicle. This is up on the Mogollon Rim on our way home to Phoenix, Arizona.

Arizona sunset

Another freakishly beautiful sunset over Arizona.

Arches to Canyonlands – Day 3

JWise Photo of the Day, Travels

Caroline Wise in Arches National Park, Utah

We spent the night in Moab, Utah, which put us within minutes of reaching Arches National Park. We won’t go on any spectacular hikes or do a backcountry overnight camping, but we will have had the opportunity to at least once in our life see this landscape with our own eyes.

Arches National Park Utah

Hence the name: Arches. Click the image or click here to see a larger version.

Arches National Park, Utah

I believe this was called Delicate Arch.

Arches National Park, Utah

We chose a weather-appropriate day to be here. What we didn’t choose wisely was how much time to allocate to being here, only 3 hours.

Newspaper Rock State Historical Monument Utah

Route 211 off the 191 is where we have to aim the car to enter the southern end of Canyonlands National Park. Along the way is the Newspaper Rock State Historical Monument which is a treasure while simultaneously being a place that draws in absolute idiots who see no harm in defacing these incredible monuments. This won’t be the first time I ask myself what is wrong with young men. Seriously, the elderly and most women do not have the destructive potential of a man between the ages of 15 and 27.

Route 211 into Canyonlands National Park Utah

Route 211 heading into Canyonlands.

Canyonlands National Park Utah

Welcome to Canyonlands National Park in Utah.

Canyonlands National Park Utah

This is not a park you just drive through or walk up to an edge and feel you’ve seen anything. The depth and breadth of this park are to be seen by foot but be wary of The Maze as it is not unheard of that people get lost in there and die. We should also note that someday we’ll return for a hike out to the confluence of the Green and Colorado rivers. Click the image or click here for a larger view of this panorama.

Sunset in Bluff, Utah

On the way to Bluff, Utah, for an overnight at Calf Canyon Bed & Breakfast, we passed through Monticello, where the road sign still reads Highway 666. Religious zealotry and superstition will one day change this Highway to Hell to Highway 491 in pandering to the wacky.

Arches to Canyonlands – Day 2

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View of the Grand Canyon from inside the Grand Canyon Lodge on the North Rim in Arizona

On the North Rim of the Grand Canyon sits the Grand Canyon Lodge; this is the view from inside their lobby.

View from the north rim of the Grand Canyon in Arizona

That’s the South Rim of the Grand Canyon in the distance, the same rim where millions of visitors go each year as opposed to this side where a fraction of that visits. Somewhere between is the Colorado River, where even fewer yet venture down its roaring waters.

John Wise on the north rim of the Grand Canyon in Arizona

I have vertigo, and this narrow trail passes over a ridge top with fairly steep falls on both sides. While the look is exaggerated for sure, that I’m being triggered by my fear is not.

Caroline Wise and John Wise on the north rim of the Grand Canyon in Arizona

Mission accomplished. We’ve been to both sides of the Grand Canyon National Park. Somehow we’ve got to get down deep in this big ditch behind us for a trip down the river: someday.

The road to Bryce Canyon National Park in Utah

We are on Route 12 heading towards Bryce Canyon National Park but are not stopping there as we have a destination in mind that is further away.

Somewhere between Bryce and Escalante, Utah

Still on Route 12 driving northeast through southern Utah.

Somewhere between Bryce and Boulder, Utah

First panorama with the new camera and wouldn’t you know it, our sensor or lens would be dirty. Click the image or click here to view a larger version.

Capitol Reef National Park in Utah

On a backroad in Capitol Reef National Park in Utah. This is likely the first time we’ve been able to drive into a narrow canyon on a dirt road. Discovering we can travel and go places after living so many years in front of a computer or reading books is enlightening in its own right.

Geological formation in Capitol Reef National Park, Utah

We are falling in love with geology all over again. Still in Capitol Reef National Park.

Abandoned stone cabin on Route 24 between Caineville and Hanksville, Utah

This abandoned stone cabin that always stands out to us for its intricate stonework finally got me to stop and grab a photo. This crumbling building sits next to the road on Route 24 between Caineville and Hanksville, Utah.

Confluence of Muddy Creek and Fremont River becoming the Dirty Devil River in Utah

The confluence of the Fremont River and Muddy Creek outside of Hanksville becomes the Dirty Devil River that runs into the Colorado River just above Lake Powell. There are times when the Dirty Devil can be run with kayaks.