America – Day 2

Texas border sign on Highway 287

Sure, it’s a dismal photo, but it’s all we got. By this time, we’d already been on the road for nearly two hours. This is looking south back into Texas on Highway 287 just north of Kerrick, Texas. Traveling this route involved a minor bit of backtracking, but we saw Rita Blanca National Grasslands on our map, and as we’d never seen such a thing, we took the detour. As we don’t have a fixed destination or a time when we need to return to Arizona, our opinion is we can go anywhere and do anything.

Welcome to Oklahoma on highway 287 with Caroline Wise and John Wise

Staring into the sun has never been an ideal situation for Caroline, and so after one tries to get this selfie in front of the Welcome to Oklahoma state sign, I had to give up. This was our first visit to the Great Plains, and for that matter, it would be our first time together anywhere east of here for the rest of the trip.

Grasslands across Oklahoma

We were never really sure where the “Grasslands” started and finished as most everything out here was flat and brown. The color of the landscape makes sense because it is well after summer and quickly approaching winter. This kind of flat expanse is something new to our eyes. If memory serves us, this is State Highway 171 traveling flat north.

Kansas state sign near Elkhart, Kansas on highway 56 with Caroline Wise and John Wise

Crossing into Kansas just south of Elkhart on Highway 56, staying away from the big roads.

Small shop in rural Kansas

It struck us that there is little out here besides grain silos, barns, and homes scattered about, and then we come upon this little “Beer To Go” shop with a drive-up window that doesn’t appear to have any way to drive close to. Or at least nobody has directed their vehicle there for a while. We’re still on the 56, heading northeast through Rolla, Kansas.

Moscow, Kansas

A standout city, this place is called Moscow, Kansas. It was here while getting gas ($1.63 a gallon) that an elderly guy approached me, curious about our Beetle. He’d not seen one yet in person and so he inquired about how we liked it. I assured him that it was amazing (I’d later grow to hate the thing). He asked if we were visiting family, and I answered no. He pointed out how far away the main highway was, and I agreed that it was a good place for it to be. Then he asked our ages, “Thirty-seven and thirty-two,” to which he said in near amazement how lucky we were to be so young and on such a big adventure. Those words stuck with me the rest of the trip, and little did I know then that they would travel with me for years into my future.

Edwards County Historical Museum And Sod House in Kinsley, Kansas

From time to time, we’ll take photos of places to act as reminders that we wanted to visit but didn’t have time or the place was closed while we were in the area. The Edwards County Sod House & Museum in Kinsley, Kansas, is one of those places. Note: Eighteen years later, we still haven’t made it back here.

Fort Larned National Historic Site in Larned, Kansas

We made a brief stop in Dodge City to visit the Boothill Museum but felt it was too expensive for what we saw. On the way out of Dodge, I had the “Epiphany Burrito,” which may have been the best burrito I’ve ever had. Back on the road, we took another break to visit the Fort Larned National Historic Site in Larned, Kansas. If there is an element of history to be learned about at any location we are traveling by, then more often than not, we feel compelled to stop. By the way, when we essentially pass through somewhere like Dodge City, the reasoning is if we can easily visit by catching a plane into a local airport and spend some quality time exploring more of what a larger city has to offer, we are probably using our time smarter by seeing the outlying areas.

Somewhere in Kansas

This is our last daylight photo worth sharing; it’s of the Cheyenne Bottoms Wildlife Area. Trying to keep things rural and off larger roads occasionally takes us down dirt roads with the hope of getting a truly alternative view. I’d say we scored with this route, as I don’t believe sunset could have been any better than right at this moment. A half-hour later, we were passing through the Quivera Wildlife Refuge, but we weren’t ready to call it a day and decided to keep on driving. We ultimately made it to Atchison, Kansas, about 250 miles up the road.

America – Day 1

Caroline Wise and John Wise on their first cross country road trip to see America

Early in the day, at 10:00 a.m., in our little turbo VW Beetle, Caroline and I were venturing out intending to drive to the East Coast. We had a very loose agenda of where we were going, with the main objective being that we would avoid main highways. This first day out was meant to put as much distance as possible between us and Arizona. This photo was snapped near 64th Street and Bell Road next to the canal on our way from Scottsdale to the I-17 in Phoenix, where we’ll head north toward Flagstaff.

Caroline Wise and John Wise on their first cross country road trip to see America

In Flagstaff, we turned right and started our trek east on Interstate 40. Midday we crossed into New Mexico and Mountain Standard Time. Stopped in Albuquerque at Little Anita’s Mexican Restaurant and kept on going. After nearly 12 hours and over 730 miles of non-stop driving, we were pulling into Amarillo, Texas. The real adventure begins tomorrow.

Four Corners with Jutta – Day 6

Vermillion Cliffs in Northern Arizona

Our road trip to the Four Corners area is coming to an end, as is Jutta’s journey through the United States. We leave Page, Arizona, under billowy clouds, which take us past the Vermilion Cliffs. As we descend the plateau, Jutta starts to cry in the backseat, and I nudge Caroline to reach out to her, which brings Jutta to even more tears. I stop at the only pullout on this stretch of road. We were listening to “That’s Ohio” from the movie “Beloved,” which only added to the dramatic moment delivered by the expansive landscape. The sense of being overwhelmed by incredible beauty is a well-known feeling for Caroline and me, but to see the emotion pour out of my stoic German mother-in-law, exposing her giant romantic heart, was a moment that should never be forgotten.

In the eleven years I’ve known Jutta, and in her previous visits to America, I’d never seen her shed a tear or show an emotion that let anyone know she was vulnerable. Even writing about this brings a sting to my eye as her tears brought Caroline and me to a similar state of emotion.

Grand Falls on the Little Colorado River in Northern Arizona

A detour out of Flagstaff has us heading east again and then north toward Leupp, Arizona. On a primitive dirt road, we are looking for Wolf Crossing, which will lead us to the Grand Falls Campground next to this spectacular sight: Grand Falls. Believe it or not, the falls here on the Little Colorado River are taller than the more famous Niagara Falls in New York.

Jutta Engelhardt, Caroline Wise, and John Wise under the rainbow in Northern Arizona

Taking selfies looking into the sun is not the brightest of ideas, but that was the only way we were going to punctuate this trip with a rainbow shot!

Four Corners with Jutta – Day 5

Lake Powell in Page, Arizona

It had to go and be a perfect day, and we’ll be able to do all that we planned on which is mostly a good thing but then can also allow me to take too many photos. Now, that wouldn’t be a problem if the majority are headed to the trash bin, but if I have more than a few I want to post, then either I have a blog entry heavy on photos without much narrative, or I have to get creative on how I’ll work in some text on each image. With fifteen photos in this post, this will be tricky.

Jutta Engelhardt and Caroline Wise at Lake Powell in Page, Arizona

Our morning started with a bit of casual sightseeing as we headed over to the shoreline of Lake Powell and took a walk to spend some time waiting for our first scheduled adventure of the day. The reservation we had for the three of us almost didn’t happen due to some rains that left the tour company reluctant to take us out if we were the only ones going. Fortunately, a few others showed up, and they too, wanted the company to honor their reservations, so our adventure was on.

Caroline Wise and Jutta Engelhardt on the Colorado River between Lake Powell and Lee's Ferry at the Grand Canyon in Arizona

A short van ride over to the Glen Canyon Dam took us down to river level, where at the foot of the dam, we boarded this big pontoon boat for a leisurely “float” down the Colorado River to Lees Ferry, where the real white water adventures into the Grand Canyon begin. These more manageable few hours on the river without white water are more our speed today with the mother-in-law in tow. As this is our first encounter with the Colorado River from this perspective, we are all pretty excited.

On the Colorado River between Lake Powell and Lee's Ferry at the Grand Canyon in Arizona

The canyon walls tower over us and impose their enormity downward, making us feel especially small. It only takes seconds down here to convince us that if someone only had half a day to visit northern Arizona, this is one of the greatest excursions that could be had.

On the Colorado River between Lake Powell and Lee's Ferry at the Grand Canyon in Arizona

It wasn’t long after we launched that we pulled over to explore a few things next to shore. Proof that rain had recently fallen here was evident, but not so much that pools, mud, rushing flood channels, or waterfalls were encumbering our short river visit.

Caroline Wise and Jutta Engelhardt on the Colorado River between Lake Powell and Lee's Ferry at the Grand Canyon in Arizona

Two of the women in this photo were a delight to be with, the other two behind my wife and mother-in-law were intolerable, and more than a couple of times today, I half wished the trip had been canceled. Here we were in a place with no electricity, no phone service, and effectively no external noise, and yet these two women could NOT stop talking. Any time there were moments of silence, it was as if a panic button went off, triggering them to have to fill the air with cackles of nonsense. Just as they made tension for me, I’m sure I made some serious tension for them when I asked them rather curtly if they could curb the concert and allow the quiet not available elsewhere to exist for more than 10 seconds.

On the Colorado River between Lake Powell and Lee's Ferry at the Grand Canyon in Arizona

Our boatman and guide not only taught us something about the geology of the canyon, but she also showed us some of the petroglyphs that are etched into the tarnished walls by the Native Americans who have used this waterway over the years.

On the Colorado River between Lake Powell and Lee's Ferry at the Grand Canyon in Arizona

Sandy shores and green trees are probably the last things we might have thought we’d see down here. From the rim above, it looks like the canyon bottom is a desolate strip of desert with a lot of rocks. From the occasionally darkening sky, it appears we could be in for some weather; we keep our fingers crossed as we do not have rain jackets or umbrellas with us. We did bring a load of optimism, though.

On the Colorado River between Lake Powell and Lee's Ferry at the Grand Canyon in Arizona

The color of the river changes depending on where we are on it, how deep it is, and if we are next to a wall or in the center channel. I’m starting to better understand the appeal to those who take multi-week trips down the length of the Colorado that runs through the Grand Canyon proper.

Caroline Wise and Jutta Engelhardt on the Colorado River between Lake Powell and Lee's Ferry at the Grand Canyon in Arizona

Our float turns out to have engines capable of whisking us quickly through the slower lengths of the river that meanders through the canyon. While it’s kind of exhilarating to zip along the river, the noise from the engine distracts from fully enjoying this rare experience, though you wouldn’t guess that from looking at Caroline’s toothy grin. And yes, this is about all the excitement one is allowed to see in my mother-in-law’s face.

On the Colorado River between Lake Powell and Lee's Ferry at the Grand Canyon in Arizona

We only get to travel about 15 miles along this famous waterway before we pull over and leave the canyon, but with views like this, it becomes possible to imagine what the larger experience found downriver might be like. The luxury that instead of leaving the canyon, you get to set up camp, hike, sit by the campfire, and sleep in a tent is about as dreamy as it gets. Then, the reality of what it might cost sends a shiver down my spine. This little 4-hour float was about $250 for the three of us, so how much might a full week or two long trips with three meals a day cost?

On the Colorado River between Lake Powell and Lee's Ferry at the Grand Canyon in Arizona

With the sun emerging, the character of the place changes rapidly and the intrigue of a wall of rock blocking our progress brings yet more sense of wow to what we are seeing. The water is deeper here and subsequently darker, too.

Caroline Wise, Jutta Engelhardt, and John Wise on the Colorado River between Lake Powell and Lee's Ferry at the Grand Canyon in Arizona

With only four hours down here, it doesn’t matter that I could stay a week just on this stretch of river; we have to head for the exit. What a profoundly beautiful experience this has been that I’ll dream about for a long time to come.

Rainbow near Page, Arizona

A bus picked us up at Lees Ferry, driving right through the rainbow I’d ordered as an extra for the ride back to Page.

Slot Canyon in Northern Arizona

Back in Page, we picked up a late Jeep tour over to Antelope Canyon. I can tell you that proper camera equipment is required if you want to take some quality photos., but the walk into the canyon, even outside of optimal times when the sun is cutting right into the slot, is worth every penny.

Four Corners with Jutta – Day 4

Hovenweep National Monument in Utah

We are at Hovenweep National Monument this morning, exploring yet more Native American ruins. In the background is the Sleeping Ute Mountain, and in front of it are the sleepy travelers trying to do as much as they can as fast as they can. Lucky us that nature is patient in wearing down the Sleeping Ute and that the passage of time has been kind to these Native American buildings, which have been standing as sentinels to the memories of those who have come and gone before any of us who have gazed upon these scenes for the last hundreds of years.

Caroline Wise and Jutta Engelhardt at Four Corners

This is the only place in America where four states share a common meeting spot of borders. While Jutta stands in Arizona and Utah, Caroline stands in Colorado and New Mexico, and across state lines, they reach out to hold hands. The symbolism here of people from different lands meeting in a commonplace regardless of borders and sharing a moment is not lost on me. If only we could do a better job of making this happen on a global scale.

Caroline Wise and Jutta Engelhardt at Four Corners

Fortunately, there was a vendor here at Four Corners selling mutton stew and fry bread, so if you are ever here on the Navajo reservation and see a truck, trailer, or shack where it looks like hot food might be being sold, stop and see if they have mutton stew or roast mutton on the menu. We think the stuff is great!

Jutta Engelhardt and Caroline Wise at an Arizona state line

Exploring native lands is what this trip has been all about.

Navajo Reservation in Arizona

The vistas and skies over these parts never fail to inspire the three of us. You might say we’ve never met a part of the Navajo Nation we didn’t love.

Navajo Reservation in Arizona

Sometimes, photos present themselves, and you have but two seconds to get them. This one of the horses walking down the fence line with rain falling in the background was just such an opportunity. From traveling down the road at about 50 mph, I saw from behind what might be an interesting shot but had to quickly break, stop, jump out, and take my shot. If I could have been a couple of seconds earlier, the horses would have been centered around the falling rain. No matter as I still love this shot.

It was just starting to rain as we approached Tuba City, Arizona. On the eastern outskirts of town, there was a bit of a traffic jam with more than a few cars turning into a dirt lot. Turns out that we’ve arrived while the Western Navajo Nation Fair Pow Wow is happening. Good thing we turned in too, and parked when we did because the rain was about to come down hard. Funny how just the month before, Caroline and I were on hand for the Navajo Nation Fair in Window Rock, and now, just by chance, we are here for Tuba City’s version. This was the perfect close to a beautiful day while staying dry, listening to the pow-wow drums and singers, and watching the dancers.

Four Corners with Jutta – Day 3

Jutta Engelhardt, Caroline Wise and John Wise at Kokopelli's Cave in Farmington, New Mexico

We are taking this photo of us in Kokopelli’s Cave in Farmington, New Mexico, as proof that we stayed here. We can’t believe our luck in that we only had one night in the area, while Kokopelli’s has a two-night minimum. We got the cave due to a cancellation and now we have bragging rights that we’ve stayed in one of the most unique places to spend a night in all of America. Our shower had a waterfall, the kitchen features about everything you’d need to stay a week here, on the front balcony is a gas BBQ, and the place is about 68 degrees year-round.

Aztec Ruins National Monument in Aztec, New Mexico

Aztec Ruins National Monument is just up the road in Aztec, New Mexico. I’m not 100% sure if the rafters are the original as placed here by the builders about 900 years ago or if maybe they were scooped up and put back into place by people maintaining the monument, but I’d like to imagine this is the handiwork of the Native Americans who once lived here.

Aztec Ruins National Monument in Aztec, New Mexico

While this location doesn’t feature the ornate work we saw at Chaco Culture, it is still impressive and worthy of a visit.

Caroline Wise and Jutta Engelhardt at a Colorado State sign

At midday, we were crossing into Colorado, where for the next nearly four hours, we’ll get lost in time exploring a tiny corner of the state before heading to Utah.

Caroline Wise and Jutta Engelhardt at a Utah State sign

We crossed into Utah on State Road 262, as you can see (changed to State Road UT 162 at some point) on our way to this evening’s lodging and dining option.

Jutta Engelhardt, Caroline Wise and John Wise in Bluff, Utah

So here we are with me being blurry all day. What’s up with my selfie-taking ability and all these blurry images of just me? We are in Bluff, Utah, again, a little more than a month after Caroline and I were here for the first time, and just as before, we are staying at Calf Canyon Bed & Breakfast. Knowing that the Cow Canyon Trading Post and Restaurant serve up a great meal with an amazing view, we’ll opt to revisit it too. I should point out that on our first visit to Bluff, a roadside vendor was selling cantaloupe which we bought a couple of and swear they were the best we’d ever had. Six weeks later there is no sign of the roadside fruit seller. I guess we’ll have to make do with the fond memories.

2018 update: Calf Canyon B&B is long gone, and from a recent call to Cow Canyon, I learned that the restaurant is no longer operational.