America – Day 13

JWise Photo of the Day, Travels

Marine Corps War Memorial near Arlington National Cemetery in Washington D.C.

Waking up to the U.S. Marine Corps War Memorial this morning. Not much else to say here but “Oorah!”

Graves of John and Jacqueline Kennedy at Arlington National Cemetery in Washington D.C.

At Arlington National Cemetery, we walked the grounds for a good while before heading over to the Eternal Flame at John and Jacqueline Kennedy’s gravesite.

Carousel Billy Goat at National Museum of American History in Washington D.C.

I wasn’t going to post this picture of another goat, this one a billy from a carousel that went round and round, immovable and fixed in time….again another metaphor for those who sit in these seats of power. The reason I wasn’t going to share it was that it’s not very compelling on its own, but I couldn’t find this anywhere else on the internet, so I’m thinking that this might be the only photo that exists of this carousel Billy goat at the National Museum of American History. Funny how everything here in D.C. seems to be a reminder of something that has been as opposed to showing us what can be.

China Town in Washington D.C.

For everything that Washington D.C. might be missing, culture is not one of them. This is a cultural melting pot with people from around the world seen walking these streets. Due to the abundance of diplomatic missions, it seems like foods from around the globe are also present. While Chinatown here has a wonderful gate, there’s not much more to the place than that, at least from our cursory observation. This is definitely not Chinatown from San Francisco or even Los Angeles.

Annapolis, Maryland

This was the best we could do in seeing Annapolis in Maryland. While it comes highly recommended, we have other plans for the rest of the day and will leave this for another visit.

Caroline County, Maryland on the Chesapeake Bay

This is why we couldn’t spend more time in Annapolis: Caroline County! Just kidding, we are driving down along the Chesapeake Bay and are looking forward to the wetlands and quiet after the crowds of D.C.

Ferry at Wicomico River in Whitehaven, Maryland

This is the ferry crossing at 23865 River St. near Route 352 in Whitehaven, Maryland. Just one car at a time gets taken over the Wicomico River.

Caroline Wise and John Wise on a ferry over the Wicomico River in Whitehaven, Maryland

These are what faces look like on their very first ferry crossing in America. The Chesapeake Bay is beautiful, even on a cloudy day.

Narrow bridge just the other side of the ferry in Whitehaven, Maryland

Just after arriving on the other side of our ferry adventure, we have this rickety old wooden bridge to contend with.

Welcome to Virginia state sign

Spent quite a bit of time in the wetlands of Maryland before reaching Virginia, where we were getting nervous it would be dark by the time we saw (or didn’t see) our next landmark.

Susan's Seafood in New Church, Virginia

Caroline is a sucker for signs; the wackier, the better. Had to stop at Susan’s Seafood to snap a photo for our memory books. We didn’t get anything to eat here, so we’ll have to reserve an opinion on that, but we might be back, especially after I read the glowing reviews. Along the way, we also passed the world’s largest decoy factory and another sign at a repair shop that read, “We fix anything but a broken heart.”

It’s dark, seriously dark, by the time we reach the Chesapeake Bay Bridge and Tunnel. So, while we can’t see much from the top of the bridge, these tunnels are amazing while simultaneously being kinda creepy as we plunge below the bay. Once back on the mainland, we headed for Hampton, Virginia, where we had the once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to eat at The Grate Steak, where we got to cook our own steak (or veggie burger). Our hotel was the Legacy Inn by the airport in Richmond, Virginia. We are exhausted and crash well before midnight, as we have asked for a 5:30 wake-up call.

America – Day 12

JWise Photo of the Day, Travels

Caroline Wise and John Wise in front of the White House in Washington D.C.

Today will be a walking day, and we are lucky to have the perfect weather for it. Our first stop was the White House. The excitement of being here in Washington, D.C., is palpable. As a child, I dreamed of one day visiting the nation’s capital, and here I am. You might have guessed my excitement level from the smile on my face.

The White House in Washington D.C.

The other side of the White House. Someday, we will have to go through the protocol to request a visit to this historic residence, someday.

The Washington Monument as seen from across the Tidal Basin in Washington D.C.

We walked across the National Mall and made our first visit to the Lincoln Memorial, then walked out past the Vietnam and Korean War Veterans Memorials before heading to the Tidal Basin for this spectacular view of the Washington Monument.

Franklin Delano Roosevelt Memorial next to the Tidal Basin in Washington D.C.

I knew a man ever so briefly who cared for President Roosevelt and ensured his smoldering cigarette never caught the White House on fire when he was heading to bed. My great-uncle played a role in the lives of several presidents and always remained loyal to his oath of confidentiality throughout his life. This, though, was his favorite of all the men he served in his time of service to our country and the White House.

Bronze of President Jefferson at the memorial honoring his contribution to the United States

President Thomas Jefferson was and is one of my favorite presidents, not just for his eloquence in crafting documents that have held strong for a couple of hundred years but for his renaissance nature of being curious about many things, peoples, and cultures throughout his life. If only today we had statesmen who had the intelligence, foresight, and ambition this leader had. From draftsman of the Declaration of Independence, governor of Virginia, minister to France, to the man who set Lewis & Clark out on an expedition to the unexplored West, allowed for the Louisiana Purchase, and was the third U.S. president. We make a note to someday visit Monticello in Virginia.

Jefferson Memorial in Washington D.C.

The Jefferson Memorial on a beautiful fall day.

The United States Capitol building in Washington D.C.

It was a circuitous route that brought us to the U.S. Capitol building. First, we walked by the Bureau of Engraving and Printing before rejoining the National Mall for an up-close look at the Washington Monument. Next up was the Air & Space Museum, where we took a photo of us standing in front of the Spirit of St. Louis with the plane perfectly in focus and us perfectly out of focus. Then we headed to the Capitol. Have you noticed what an incredibly beautiful day it is?

Inside the Natural History Museum in Washington D.C.

This felt like the perfect metaphor for how things get done here in the United States. The human skeleton represents one side of the population, and the obstinate goat is on the other side; neither side wants to do what the other wants, but somewhere in the middle, a compromise is made. This display was at the Natural History Museum, which is part of the Smithsonian. In our limited time at the museum, we were also able to take in some mummies, dinosaur bones, diverse rocks, and minerals, along with the Hope diamond.

Benjamin Franklin in front of the Old Post Office in Washington D.C.

From Benjamin Franklin, I learned what a polymath was, and from a young age, I knew I wanted to be just like him. His accomplishments are too broad for me to capture here; better if you just go read a Wikipedia article or a book about this great American.

Ford's Theatre in Washington D.C.

The site of the demise of President Abraham Lincoln, our 16th president. Ford’s Theatre is a grim reminder that even great people can be vulnerable to the anger of the person who sees no other way to settle a grievance. We not only visited the inside of the theater, taking note of the Presidential Box where John Wilkes Booth assassinated Lincoln, but we also went across the street to the Petersen House and saw the location where Lincoln passed after he was taken there.

Lincoln Memorial in Washington D.C.

After visiting the sad and tragic site where a beloved president was murdered, it was time to revisit the Lincoln Memorial to take a moment to think about the founding of the United States and the turmoil we have endured so we could be a leading example of what is to be a nation of laws and order.

Abraham Lincoln seated in the Lincoln Memorial in Washington D.C.

This is the man I learned about, who was a self-taught lawyer, an autodidact who inspired me as a child that I could learn anything and become anything I set my sights on. Lincoln failed twice in business before turning 25 years old; he failed eight times running for public office. Yet he persevered and, with determination, became one of the most memorable presidents in the history of the United States. I had a lump in my throat standing before the statue of this great man, and I again have a lump in my throat as I write this.

The White House at night in Washington D.C.

Dinner, sadly, was not at the White House. We took the Metro to Foggy Bottom and walked the rest of the way to Georgetown for a meal at an Indian restaurant. We finished up the night with one last glance at the Washington Monument and then a slow walk past the White House, hoping for the odd chance we’d see President Clinton out smoking a cigar or something.

America – Day 11

JWise Photo of the Day, Travels

Ephrata Cloister in Ephrata, Pennsylvania

Like so many other times on this trip, so far, places are either closed for the season or are on shorter hours, and we simply arrive too early. This is the Ephrata Cloister in Ephrata, Pennsylvania. Conrad Beissel, a man of German descent, was Ephrata’s founder and established this corner of Pennsylvania as somewhere he felt he could live as a hermit. By the early 1750s, Beissel was no longer alone, having attracted nearly 80 others who chose the ascetic life of celibacy and self-discipline. Mark this cloister as somewhere we need to return to.

Beaver Street in Lancaster, Pennsylvania

From beautiful architecture to a frightening neighborhood of row houses that have the feeling of a kind of poverty Caroline and I do not typically encounter. Mind you, we’ve been on and near skid-row in downtown Los Angeles and have witnessed poverty on more than a few Native American reservations, but something is foreboding about how people are packed into such a small area.

Lancaster County Prison in Lancaster, Pennsylvania

One can’t help but take the situation in this area and play stereotypes with assumptions, such as the idea that too many of the kids growing up in neighborhoods such as the one just above end up here in this prison. This is not the idyllic side of the area often associated with the farmlands of the Amish.

Row houses in Lancaster, Pennsylvania

More row houses. While certainly an upgrade from the other neighborhood, these have a scuffed appearance. I would love to have seen this area in its prime when the industrial/farming economy was bustling, and these homes were brand new.

Farmers Market in Bird-in-Hand, Pennsylvania

Two things are striking about this photo, first, fresh food is for people over 40, and second, the diversity in these farmer’s markets is shocking when compared to what we know from Arizona. This market was in Bird-in-Hand, Pennsylvania, and while we certainly didn’t leave empty-handed, we no longer know exactly what we left with (Caroline remembers apple Schnitz and a big coffee cake). We need some Amish farmers to move to Arizona; as a matter of fact, everyone in America needs some local Amish to help fill their pantries.

Amish buggy on the way to Intercourse, Pennsylvania

We can now officially claim that we’ve been to Amish country as we are witnessing our first horse-drawn buggy in traffic. The next souvenir will be the obligatory yellow “buggy crossing” sign refrigerator magnet.

Amish farm in Lancaster County, Pennsylvania

Wow, a real Amish farm in Lancaster County, Pennsylvania! How do I know it’s an Amish farm, you ask? Do you see any electrical wires running to that property? There are also no signs of vehicles such as tractors out there either. The only thing missing from this scene is the horse-drawn plow with a bearded man dressed in black behind it.

Hans Herr House in Lancaster County, Pennsylvania

This is the oldest house left standing in Lancaster County; it is the Reverend Hans Herr’s house. Hans was born in Zurich, Switzerland, in 1639 and was the first Mennonite bishop to emigrate to America. He sailed to America at 70 years old, and within ten years, his son Christian Herr built this house in 1719. What struck us about all of this is that it has been documented that at least 13,223 people were claiming to be direct lineal descendants of Hans Herr as of 1994.

Fall colors in Lancaster County, Pennsylvania

The colors of fall.

James Buchanan's house in Wheatland, Pennsylvania

Those faces should be disappointed, but we got lucky today. A wedding was getting ready to take place, but our sad story about being so far away from home and wanting to visit our first Presidential home did not fall on deaf ears. George was now our gracious and super informative guide on a quick tour of the James Buchanan home called Wheatland in Lancaster County, Pennsylvania. Buchanan was our 15th president, preceding Abraham Lincoln. American history for the win.

Welcome to Maryland state sign

It’s just a two-state day, so it doesn’t feel like we’re working hard enough. Maryland is welcoming us.

The Capitol building in Washington D.C.

Okay, two states and the District of Columbia! Earlier in the day, we’d decided to bypass D.C. as we figured it would be another congested version of New York City. At the last minute, we changed our minds in Baltimore and pointed the car to our nation’s capital. Our first motel was such a disaster that we asked for a refund; the next place was only 10 minutes from the White House and much better. Excited to explore this place in the morning.

America – Day 10

JWise Photo of the Day, Travels

View of the Atlantic from Pilgrim Sands Hotel in Plymouth, Massachusetts

I may as well give away the secret: today’s weather will be poor all day. If there was a speck of blue sky, we missed it. There is a good view of the ocean, though, and that makes up for the disappointment that the sun has dipped out.

Atlantic ocean wildlife

This penguin is in disguise as a seagull, those black tail feathers are the giveaway. Maybe I should choose a day from this trip and just lie about everything? In town here in Plymouth, we stopped for some coffee at Lalajava and tried their cranberry nut cream coffee, good stuff, and so we make a note to get on the internet when we get home and order some. (We never did do that, and as of 2018, as I’m back-filling these blog entries, they are out of business)

The somewhat controversial rock that is claimed to be "the" Plymouth Rock in Plymouth, Massachusetts

So this is the alleged “Plymouth Rock” that is not likely the landing spot of anyone from the Mayflower. The problem with the story is that no pilgrims ever mentioned the existence of this disembarkation point in any writings. It wasn’t until 121 years later that someone started the myth that this was the very spot where these early pilgrims set foot in North America. So, while it is interpreted as a symbol of that early colonization, its factual historical significance is relative.

Cranberry bog in Massachusetts

Our first sighting of a cranberry bog. You can bet this elicited a stronger curiosity than the rock in the previous picture. We also passed the Ocean Spray World of Cranberries headquarters. Apparently, we are in cranberry country.

Rhode Island state sign

Sadly, we just weren’t motivated enough to go stand in the rain and try to grab a selfie in front of the Rhode Island state sign. Welcome to the smallest state in America from the car.

Caroline Wise and John Wise in Rhode Island

We needed to do something to commemorate being in the smallest state in America, and so during a break in the rain, I made this WTF face after wondering how Caroline made herself blurry.

Connecticut state sign

I had to catch this Connecticut Welcomes You sign while driving down the road. Anyone who knows me probably knows I giggled at the “Town of Stonington” part of the sign.

Somewhere in Connecticut

This Connecticut place is kinda pretty, even on a drab gray day. At least the rain let up.

Mystic Seaport in Mystic, Connecticut

We arrive too close to the museum closing, and with the weather what it is, we decide we’ll have to wait for another day to visit the Mystic Seaport. We are disappointed but certain we’ll return. Something I should point out about this cross-country journey we are on, this is more an orientation of discovery to get a better idea of the lay of the land known as the United States. If we don’t get to a particular place, that’s okay because this is just the scouting exercise.

Entering New York City

I didn’t think for one second that while the majority of our trip had been rural and that we’d kind of freaked out in Boston due to the congestion, we might have the same reaction in New York City. Heck, this was so exciting, this idea of us visiting the Big Apple together for the first time, that the thrill propelled us right in. From entering Manhattan via the Bronx, we head south, making our way over to the Hudson Parkway. Wow, we’re on Broadway!

Sign pointing to Brooklyn

Okay, that was a supremely bad idea with the concert of beeping horns and bumper-to-bumper traffic. We headed for the exit leaving Manhattan via Brooklyn and then crossed over to Staten Island on the Verrazano-Narrow Bridge.

View of the New York City skyline

This was the best handheld shot I could get of NYC from Staten Island before we tried to put even more distance between us and the chaos.

White Castle Burgers in New Jersey

I’d only ever had these from the frozen food aisle at some random grocery store out West; they suck fresh and in person too. What do people see in White Castle? They need In-N-Out Burger.

It’s 10:00 p.m. when we enter Pennsylvania, our fifth state today. It will be 11:45 before we finally find a Ramada Inn in Reading, Pennsylvania. We must have stopped at half a dozen other motels that were all sold out. We are tired.

America – Day 9

JWise Photo of the Day, Travels

Caroline Wise and John Wise at Frenchman Bay in Acadia National Park, Maine

We live for being next to the water. Everything feels perfect when we are at the coast including here at Frenchman Bay in Acadia National Park.

Panorama of Frenchman Bay in Acadia National Park, Maine

Our old Sony camera only shot 1600×1200 pixels during this trip, but the magic of Photoshop stitching images together let us resolve things just a wee bit better. Here’s Frenchman Bay from side to side. Click the image or click here to load a larger view to see more detail.

Acadia National Park near Bar Harbor, Maine

Hours could pass, and as long as the weather stays dry, we’d be happy as clams to just walk along the shore all day.

Acadia National Park near Bar Harbor, Maine

The distinctive look between the northwest Pacific coast and here is striking. After Oregon, Maine might be the next choice of where we’d love to live. The only problem with living out this way might be the roads, though the area around Bar Harbor is fairly maintained. Maybe someday we can spend some months up here and get a better idea of what things are like in winter and summer.

Mushroom in Acadia National Park near Bar Harbor, Maine

There’s certainly a lot more here than just the sea, but it takes some serious effort to avert our eyes from that body of water that seems to be calling us.

Mushroom in Acadia National Park near Bar Harbor, Maine

I have no idea what this is, but it looks yummy, though I’ll bet a dollar it doesn’t taste as good as it looks.

Cadillac Mountain in Mushroom in Acadia National Park near Bar Harbor, Maine

The strong wind makes the peak of Cadillac Mountain in Acadia National Park brutally cold. We are only at 1,533 feet above sea level, which is called a hill out west, but out here on the east coast, this is a mountain and it’s the highest point on the U.S. Atlantic coast. While the thermometer reads 42 degrees, I’d bet that with the wind chill factor, it’s not a degree over 10. Quick, let’s jump back in the car!

Cadillac Mountain in Mushroom in Acadia National Park near Bar Harbor, Maine

A panoramic view from near the peak of Cadillac Mountain. Click here or the image to see a larger view.

Near Bar Harbor, Maine

Finally, it was time for breakfast, so we headed back to Bar Harbor for something to eat at Rika’s Family Restaurant. Our server tells us how Bar Harbor becomes a ghost town this time of year, and during the summer, it’s difficult to move down the street because the crowds are so thick. This feast or famine situation makes things difficult for those who can’t winter down in Florida or over in Arizona, where most of the town is already. Afterward, we stroll down the street searching for the refrigerator magnet we must find. We found a magnet but also a ceramic tile of the Bass Harbor Head Lighthouse so now we’ll have to head that way and witness it for ourselves.

On the way to Southwest Harbor by Tremont, Maine

With the sun out and blue skies, the Atlantic Ocean shimmers in beauty. We are on the way to Southwest Harbor out towards Tremont, where the Bass Harbor Head Lighthouse is situated.

On the way to Southwest Harbor by Tremont, Maine

Moving slowly along the coast as we find places to stop and explore the shore. I should point out that these rocks can be slippery: my butt found out the hard way as I went down flat on them.

Bass Harbor Head Lighthouse on the Maine coast

This was the best view we could muster of the lighthouse. It was built back in 1858 and is located in Tremont, Maine.

Caroline Wise and John Wise with a snail we named "State of Maine" that we got as our reminder at the Purple Baboon in Belfast, Maine

So this was the souvenir we ended up with from Purple Baboon over in Belfast. We named this snail “State of Maine.” You might also notice we are traveling with a Kodama hanging in the window just behind Caroline. The Kodama are spirits from Japanese folklore that inhabit trees, similar to the dryads from Greek mythology, with the name dryads being the basis for the plant dryas, which will figure in a couple of our trips in the future after we go to Alaska and the Yukon, but that’s 12 years from now so I’ll wait to write about that stuff then. This particular Kodama was featured in the film Princess Mononoke.

Around this time, we also returned to Belfast for some lunch at the Maine Chowder & Steak House and then pointed the car towards Camden, where we made note that we would have to visit this small village on a subsequent trip.

Witch Dungeon Museum in Salem, Massachusetts

Before reaching Salem, Massachusetts, and the closed-for-the-day Witch Dungeon Museum, a guy at a gas station in Maine recommended that we visit both Annapolis and Mystic Seaport. From Salem, we drive into Lynn (established in 1629) and believe we are in the land of hairdressers, doughnut shops, roast beef dives, pizza joints, and Chinese restaurants. It should also be known as the place of the world’s smallest street signs.

Sumner Tunnel in Boston, Massachusetts

Boston is a madhouse of traffic anarchy, and this tunnel is no better. Only $2 to pass through Sumner Tunnel with our nerves already frayed, and then here comes an emergency vehicle forcing all of us to merge right in a tunnel that was already bumper to bumper. We looked for the area of the Boston Tea Party so we could see it in the dark while it was closed too, but we never found it.

Boston skyline at night in Massachusetts

Leaving Boston behind, we head for a quieter destination to stop for the night; Plymouth sounds interesting, so we’ll invest the hour and drive south. Once in Plymouth (yep, that one made famous by a rock), we stopped at Plymouth House of Pizza for dinner and then checked into the Pilgrim Sands Motel with an ocean view!

America – Day 8

JWise Photo of the Day, Travels

About to cross from New York to Vermont

We are up early and ready to go by 6:00 a.m. We are also nearly as far north as we can go without heading into Canada, with Montreal a mere 45 miles away. This is Highway 2, and that bridge just in front of us crosses Lake Champlain and drops us into Vermont.

Hero's Welcome General Store in North Hero, Vermont

Route 2, down through a bunch of islands in Lake Champlain, had hints of being scenic, and so that was the road we traveled. In North Hero, we spotted the Hero’s Welcome General Store; not only was it aesthetically attractive they were serving breakfast: double win.

Joe's Pond, Vermont

Not only is this Joe’s Pond, but it’s in Joe’s Pond, Vermont!

Footbridge over Joe's Brook in West Danville, Vermont

A rare covered footbridge over Joe’s Brook in West Danville, Vermont. It might not be that rare, but it is the first of its kind we’ve ever seen.  This specimen was built in the vintage year of 1977, so while it may not be an antique it will forever be special to us as having the significance of being our first.

Caroline Wise and John Wise visiting Maple Grove Farms of Vermont in Saint Johnsbury

Fortunately, we were traveling with our hair nets for just such a situation, which was lucky in that it allowed us to visit the factory floor at Maple Grove Farms and Museum. Caroline has, on occasion, tried convincing me that I look better in just such a hat, but unless she can find me the exact same kind with an already integrated beard net (not a secondary device), I’m not going for it. The tour through this operation was AMAZING.

Maple Grove Farms factory tour in Saint Johnsbury, Vermont

Caroline probably dreams about this sign as it is an all-time favorite that she’ll reference for years into the future. If it wasn’t for her, I’d probably never have known about the “jazz hands” meme.

Caroline Wise and John Wise at the Welcome to New Hampshire state sign

Today, we are seeing all the states. Lunch was in Gorham, New Hampshire, as we had to do something on our drive across the state. We stopped at Saladino’s Italian Market for some spaghetti and got back on the road. Driving is about all we’ll do today, as Maine is calling. Crap, so is a VW dealer, as we just noticed one of our headlights is out.

Pond in Shelburne, New Hampshire

Blue skies have arrived, and we are greeting it with smiles. I’ve probably said it a hundred other times, but it seems like every day we’ve ever traveled, we see at least some blue sky. This idyllic pond scene comes to you courtesy of Shelburne, New Hampshire, on Highway 2, about five miles from Maine.

Caroline Wise and John Wise at the Welcome to Maine state sign

And in just seconds, we went from New Hampshire to Maine. About 10 miles down the road, we pulled into Bethel, Maine, to find a pay phone and call VW roadside assistance; they told us to visit Augusta, Maine, and that we should make tracks before they closed. So we changed our plans and headed to Augusta. Okay, we don’t have any other plan than to get to the ocean so we can brag to everyone that we’ve seen America coast-to-coast; well, a tiny sliver of it.

Roadside pond somewhere in Maine

After a couple of hours of driving in Maine, we are certain this is the state with the absolutely WORST roads outside of Afghanistan. We arrived in Augusta shortly after 4:00 in the afternoon and, not even 20 minutes later, were back on the road.  An hour later, we were at the coast and ready to shop. In Belfast, we ran into the Purple Baboon, intent on leaving with the greatest souvenir we would collect on this trip because this was the place to do that; the Purple Baboon demanded it. There’s a literary reference here to William S. Burroughs, one of my favorite authors, that is triggering this fervor. Read Naked Lunch if you are interested. Dinner was at the Weathervane Seafood Restaurant, and while Caroline is a vegetarian, she couldn’t resist having shrimp, some amazing clam chowder, swordfish, and some fried smelts & haddock. Note: the Weathervane is now gone, and Nautilus Seafood & Grill is at the location.

Somewhere between Belfast and Trenton, Maine at night

Looking back at Belfast, Maine, after dinner on our way to Trenton, Maine. The first motel we spotted was the Acadia Sunrise Motel, with advertised rates of just $31 a night. We took it and it actually was just $31. We have no shame when it comes to saving money so we can go further and do more. Note: 18 years later, they list rooms starting at $59 a night 🙂

Update: Five years after that last update here in 2023, the rooms at the Acadia Sunrise Motel now start at $109 per night. How’s that for inflation?