America – Day 17

JWise Photo of the Day, Travels

News broadcaster in Mississippi

At times, when we are in a motel, we’ll turn on the TV if we are there early and have nothing else to do. It’s usually not on long, as I only annoy Caroline while I flip rapidly through the channels to verify that nothing is on. This mention of the TV is significant, I suppose, because anyone who knows us would have heard a hundred times that I quit watching TV back in 1985, but for a couple of brief relapses, it has remained that way. Was this wearing a bear suit ever a thing? Is this unique to newscasters in Mississippi? Would you not believe me if I told the sports guy was wearing feathers, and the weatherman was donning seal skin? TV is bad, nature is good.

Boardwalk into a cypress forest on the Natchez Trace Parkway in Mississippi

Now, I return you to our regularly scheduled program featuring nature. This boardwalk goes nowhere except to the other side of this small glade of cypress trees growing in a swamp. Another fine example of the crap quality we were shooting photos with, but it was all I had. By the way, you do know we are back on the Natchez Trace Parkway, right?

Cypress growing in a swamp on the Natchez Trace Parkway in Mississippi

More cypress in a swamp because we thought this was just the coolest thing to see with our own eyes. We need to return to the Natchez Trace and take better-quality photos someday.

Pond on the Natchez Trace Parkway in Mississippi

To the best of our knowledge, this is a pond filled with water lilies and other stuff, probably some fish and maybe even some old Civil War trash or gold.

John Wise changing a tire on the Natchez Trace Parkway in Mississippi

This Beetle is turning out to be a piece of shit, first the headlamp and then a tire, what’s next, the engine dying? (Yeah, that happened too, but not on this trip.) It sucks getting a flat out here, as there is nowhere to pull over. Within minutes of me getting the tire changed, a park ranger came by to ensure traffic was aware of us here on the side of the road, but I was already nearly finished.

Side road off the Natchez Trace Parkway in Mississippi

This photo has always stood out for Caroline and me as an all-time favorite image of the many photos I’ve shot. How it talks to our memory and what it triggers is a mystery, but here it is for the rest of humanity to enjoy – or not.

The original sunken Natchez Trace in Mississippi

While the picture is blurry, it is the only one I have that conveys an idea of what the original Natchez Trace looked like after it had been walked upon for centuries. This depression here, on the surface, is the aftermath of so many people and animals following the “trace” from Natchez to Nashville after floating with their trade goods to Natchez on the Mississippi River from the North. The walk back home on the trace was dangerous because people of unsavory character knew that the travelers were likely carrying a righteous amount of cash or gold with them.

Kudzu growing on trees along the Natchez Trace Parkway in Mississippi

Initially, we thought these heavily draped trees looked really cool, so we inquired as to what kind of trees they were. Turns out this is not cool at all, as a matter of fact, it’s horrible. The leaves are not from the actual trees; the trees are still below those leaves and could die from this intrusive, invasive pest that has camouflaged them. You are looking at kudzu, and if left alone, kudzu could choke you out, too. Kill more kudzu – it’s good for America.

John Wise near the end of the Natchez Trace Parkway in Mississippi

About to leave the Natchez Trace Parkway in Mississippi. This is what is left of the Emerald Mound site which is designated a National Historic Landmark. These were ceremonial and used from approximately 1250 to 1600 A.D.

Mammy's Cupboard near Natchez, Mississippi

Mammy’s Cupboard – home-style cooking at its best. While not very politically correct in this age, it certainly makes you stop and ask, WTF? The food was great, and the idea that you are sitting under the dress of this lady is kind of strange, only adding to the experience that you can “brag” someday that you ate at Mammy’s or not.

On a bridge crossing the Mississippi river into Louisiana

Crossing over the Mississippi River but then we turned around and headed right back to Natchez for some reason or other?

Caroline Wise and John Wise in front of the Welcome to Louisiana state sign

Someone told me to look stern in Louisiana, or people would think us weird; Caroline is obviously failing. After we returned to Natchez, we headed south on the 61 and by the time we reached Woodville, Mississippi, we pulled over for a 15-minute nap. Continuing south, we drove through Baton Rouge, Louisiana, and then straight down, staying west of New Orleans and keeping that city for another time when we could give it adequate attention so instead, we headed to Houma for no particular reason other than it was on the map.

1921 Seafood in Houma, Louisiana

This would not be the last time we would eat at 1921 Seafood in Houma, Louisiana. We had the shellfish boil with potatoes, and it was amazingly great; it was also the first time Caroline had ever eaten crab. Our motel in Houma was called the Holiday Motel and was only $33.66 for the night.

America – Day 16

JWise Photo of the Day, Travels

Northern terminus of the Natchez Trace Parkway near Nashville, Tennessee

At the 6,083-mile mark of our journey, we enter the Natchez Trace Parkway, and for the next 444 miles, we’ll almost wish that this scenic road was not open for cars but just bicycles, as this would be one of the most perfect roads for an extended bike ride, except for the rain. Immediately after passing the entry sign, we encounter a bunch of wild turkeys and a deer. We are excited.

Drying tobacco along the Natchez Trace Parkway

This is the first time Caroline and I have seen drying tobacco. If either of us still smoked, I think we might have considered pilfering a small leaf and taking it home to fire it up. Hmmm, had we known about smoked drinks at the time, we should have taken some of this tobacco to add a little flavor from the Natchez Trace to a drink.

Alabama Tennessee state line on the Natchez Trace Parkway

No selfie here in this rain, plus we would have blocked your ability to read the sign. Way more important to read the sign than see our faces, which, of course, will come up soon enough because a day without John and Caroline’s faces is like a day without sunshine, which we don’t have right now.

One of the many creeks along the Natchez Trace Parkway

The Natchez Trace Parkway runs a bit more than 30 miles across the northwest tip of Alabama, crossing the Tennessee River. The above creek is not the Tennessee River but a creek I cannot identify, though I’m sure it’s in Alabama and not Tennessee.

Mississippi state sign on the Natchez Trace Parkway

Only four hours on the trace, and we are already 127 miles done with this stretch of our trip. Behind the Entering Mississippi state sign is a Native American burial mound!

Plant life on the Natchez Trace Parkway

In keeping with my thought that I must share more than the big picture and great landscapes, I present you with this close-up of plants growing on a tree.

Spider webs

Caroline took this photo of spider webs; well, that’s what she says it is. Looks like melted plastic and water drops to me. I’m seriously curious about the fluorescent green dots on the back of the leaf in the top left corner. Are they radioactive?

On the Natchez Trace Parkway in Mississippi

There are no businesses along the Trace, no gas stations, motels, or food stands. Signage is kept to a minimum, and no commercial signage is allowed. Places to get on and off the trace are also relatively rare. Near Tupelo, we left the trace to find lunch and thought we should fill the tank. Someone back at the last visitor center on the trace tells us about a place in Saltillo, Mississippi, that, in our opinion, was seriously lacking, but it was only $10 a meal. Got $10.10 worth of gas, which ended up being 6 gallons on the nose. In a minute, we were back on the trace. Guess we’ll have to visit the Elvis Presley Birthplace & Museum in Tupelo on another trip across America.

Creek along the Natchez Trace Parkway in Mississippi

The rain comes and goes, as do the creeks scattered along the route.

Caroline Wise and John Wise on the Natchez Trace Parkway in Mississippi

While the road that is the Natchez Trace Parkway pretty much follows the historic trade route, there are still sections of the original foot trail that dot in and out along our drive. This section of the footpath looked to be the perfect place to grab a selfie. Jeez, I have to admit that my wife is really cute with short hair. Please, nobody tell her that I let you know.

Thorns, vines, and rain along the Natchez Trace Parkway

The further you go and the deeper you look, the more you find worth remembering about your time out on the Natchez Trace Parkway. Maybe even a bicycle would be too fast to travel this road; a good long walk might be the more appropriate mode of travel. Heck, that’s exactly how traders used this path in its early history.

Spider walking the Natchez Trace Parkway in Mississippi

Speaking of walking. We ran into this arachnid that was taking its time to explore the trace as leisurely as anyone else might dream of.

Colors of fall leaves on the Natchez Trace Parkway in Mississippi

The colors of fall warm the heart of desert dwellers, especially when they are made up of rare leaves unseen in Arizona, though we do have our fair share of cactus needles.

Creek along the Natchez Trace Parkway in Mississippi

By this time, if anyone didn’t know it, you should be able to tell that not only do we love ocean shores and big rivers, but love these tiny creeks too.

French Camp on the Natchez Trace Parkway in Mississippi

French Camp Visitor Center is one of the few structures right on the Trace. This cabin was built back in 1840. We spot a few more deer in the area, and fog shrouds the trees across the way. In less than an hour, we’ll leave the trace for the night.

Dusk on a rainy early evening on the Natchez Trace Parkway in Mississippi

It’s almost dark by the time we leave the trace and head to Kosciusko, Mississippi, to find a room. We have some pretty low standards, but the places we find in this corner of Mississippi are horrible. So we continue down the road to Carthage and check into the Carthage Inn. Food choices in Carthage are meh….doesn’t seem this part of Mississippi is much of a tourist destination.

America – Day 15

JWise Photo of the Day, Travels

Kentucky countryside west of Wilmore

Here we are on Harrodsburg Road in Nicholasville, Kentucky, minutes after we left our motel up the road on Route 68. It looks like we might have another beautiful day out in America.

View from 9236 Harrodsburg Rd Nicholasville, Kentucky

View from the same house on Harrodsburg Road.

Crossing the Kentucky River on Route 68

Crossing the Kentucky River as we make our way west today on Route 68. On the east side of the river, the road is named Harrodsburg Road, while on the west side, it will change to Lexington Road and be the combination of Routes 33 and 68.

Sunrise in Kentucky

It might be difficult to see the detail (this old Sony digital camera shot 1600×1200 or 2-megapixel images), but up in one of those trees is a huge cluster of birds greeting the rising sun.

Finding Jesus in Kentucky

Seeing we couldn’t visit Kentucky Home State Park because, of course, it was closed, we offer you salvation in Jesus and a roadside sign that can bring you into the fold of God. Back in the day, people prayed for poor souls to keep them from purgatory, but by 2018, we spent most of our time praying about the loss of children killed by mass shootings in our schools.

Abraham Lincoln Birthplace National Historic Park in LaRue County, Kentucky

Before arriving here at the Abraham Lincoln Birthplace National Historical Park, we visited the Lincoln Museum up the road in Hodgenville. It was so cheesy that the potential for good kitsch was lost, and the place instead verged on the depressing. This is not a place marked on the map for return. Even the birthplace monument leaves a lot to be desired. It does hold the distinction of being the first Lincoln Monument, and it is, in fact, the location where the Lincoln family lived, but the cabin in this monument is a “symbolic” building of something that “could” have been similar to the one President Lincoln was born in. Walking the grounds and visiting the somewhat cave-like Sinking Spring, where the Lincoln family drew their water, is the best part of the visit.

Mail Pouch Tobacco stenciled on a barn in Kentucky

We must have been on the tail end of the nostalgia for traveling to hokey places because after we visited the Lincoln birthplace, we went back to town and had lunch at the Lincoln Jamboree, where Joel Rays Restaurant had been serving diners for 41 years. It was lunchtime on a Wednesday during our visit; years later, their hours would be reduced to Saturdays only, opening at 3:00 p.m. Such is progress. Another Mail Pouch Tobacco stencil greets us back on the road. And for the curious: no, we’ve never tried chewing Mail Pouch Tobacco. Trivia: Bloch Brothers from Wheeling, West Virginia, was the tobacco company behind these advertisements that were once featured on over 20,000 barns!

John Wise in Mammoth Cave National Park, Kentucky

If it’s in the National Park system and we are nearby, we are going. Here we are, wiggling and squeezing through Mammoth Cave National Park in Kentucky. This section of the cave I’m in inspired Caroline to take my photo as I shimmied through the “Fat Man’s Misery.” I wasn’t so much worried about fitting as I was about some brief moments of claustrophobia.

Ferry crossing of Green River in Mammoth Cave National Park, Kentucky

Worst photo ever of a ferry crossing. This is the Green River Ferry in Mammoth Cave National Park which is required traveling if you are driving north out of the park.

Somewhere along the road to Tennessee in Kentucky

Kentucky is an incredible state for its beauty. Hopefully, we’ll return someday in late spring or early summer when everything is in bloom, and the abundance of green is greener than any green we’ve ever witnessed in the deserts of the Southwest.

Sunset in western Kentucky

Sunset doing what it does best besides giving way to night, creating dramatic skies of extraordinary color.

Caroline Wise and John Wise in front of the Welcome to Tennessee state sign

We effectively just passed through Nashville, Tennessee, though we did stop for a very uninspired dinner. These pre-smartphone travels were severely hampered by not having the ability to find restaurants with the help of the internet; phone books were a joke. We had failed so frequently asking locals for great places to eat with answers coming back at us like “Red Lobster, Olive Garden, or Sizzler” that we had to give up and take the path of least resistance by opting for the first place that had a few cars in the lot and wasn’t a chain or fakey Chinese food. From dinner, we drove to the northern terminus of the Natchez Trace Parkway, looking for a place to stay, except there was nothing out there, so we headed to Franklin, Tennessee, figuring it would be cheaper than anything found in Nashville.

America – Day 14

JWise Photo of the Day, Travels

Barn on highway 60 west of Amherst, Virginia

When we left the Richmond area, it was overcast with sporadic rain. By the time we were passing through Amherst, Virginia, where we spotted this barn, the weather had turned in our favor. Before leaving for our drive west on the 60, we felt that the two Waffle Houses near our hotel were a sign that we had to eat at Waffle House, so we ate at Waffle House, but only once, not at both.

Long Mountain Wayside near the Appalachian Trail in Virginia

We stopped to inspect the hornet nest hopeful we’d spot some in the wild, but the nest was empty like so many of the places we’ve tried visiting on this trip that was closed. Nearby within 2 minutes is the Appalachian Trail, but at that time, we had no idea. A little further up the road was the Blue Ridge Parkway, again, we were oblivious of its presence.

Close to the Blue Ridge Parkway in Virginia

Based on the time stamp on this photo, we were likely very close to the Blue Ridge Parkway. Years would go by, but ultimately, we would return to drive sections of this national treasure of road that stretches for 469 miles from North Carolina north to Virginia.

Welcome to West Virginia on the way to White Sulphur Srings

The “Welcome to West Virginia” state sign is right over Interstate 64, where the speed limit is 70 miles per hour. There will be no getting out of the car for a selfie in the middle of the road. We note that we’ve now driven 5,429 miles since leaving Phoenix.

Statue for the "Confederate Dead" somewhere in West Virginia

Kind of strange being in a place that is celebrating the side that lost instead of putting the past to rest and joining the rest of the country, but what do we know? We are listening to NPR, which is recognizing Aaron Copland’s 100th birthday today, and broadcasting performances of “Fanfare to the Common Man” and “Appalachian Spring.” We keep the windows up so nobody hears the Yankees listening to a New York composer and a liberal radio station. I should point out that we do love bluegrass and hillbilly music too.

Another farm in West Virginia

What a gorgeous day and a fantastic landscape.

Hawks Nest State Park overlook in West Virginia

This view is from an overlook of Hawks Nest State Park in Ansted, West Virginia, on Route 60. Though we are heading west, we are in no hurry to get back home, just so you know that.

Kanawha Falls near the Gauley Bridge West Virginia

The Kanawha Falls and power station is supplied by the Gauley and New Rivers just upstream a couple of miles. There are so many places on this trip we would return to years after we finished our first cross-country excursion. Places like the Gauley River we would learn more about from Bruce Keller, who would be our guide on whitewater river trips down the Colorado in the Grand Canyon and the Alsek up in Alaska. On a subsequent trip, we’ll eat fiddlehead ferns at Kitchen Little in Mystic, Connecticut, or spend some quality time in both New York City and Washington D.C. in addition to returns to Maine, Boston, Baltimore, and first-time visits to Philadelphia, Montreal, and New Bedford in Massachusetts following the reading of Moby Dick. This trip will be the cement that enthralled us with the idea that we could travel from coast to coast and seek out the places we found intriguing.

Dilapidated old house next to the road in West Virginia

I have a soft spot for ruins and would stop at every single one if time allowed. This one was right next to the road in West Virginia.

Welcome back to Kentucky state sign

Returning to Kentucky drives home the idea that we are essentially heading back toward home. Well, I’m sure we’ll discover 1000 more amazing moments before we get there.

Meadowthorpe Cafe in Lexington, Kentucky

A FedEx driver up the road in Lexington recommended we stop for some dinner at the Meadowthorpe Cafe, turns out it was a great recommendation. It’s not always easy to find out about the way local eats when we’re out on the road. Matter of fact, I think that’s why we hear so many people gripe about long drives; they are confronted with the same hotel chains, the same McDonalds, Taco Bells, and Dennys, the same gas stations, and broad freeways that, while moving people quickly, make the landscape feel monotonous. Who knows what we ate here, as we didn’t take notes about it other than “fast, good, and cheap.” (Caroline says it was a southern-style grub; she’s probably right.) Our motel was about a half-hour out of town, a cheap joint called the Turfmor Motel in Wilmore, Kentucky. On the way to our motel, we passed the Mary Todd Lincoln House in Lexington, which, of course, was closed.

America – Day 13

JWise Photo of the Day, Travels

Marine Corps War Memorial near Arlington National Cemetery in Washington D.C.

Waking up to the U.S. Marine Corps War Memorial this morning. Not much else to say here but “Oorah!”

Graves of John and Jacqueline Kennedy at Arlington National Cemetery in Washington D.C.

At Arlington National Cemetery, we walked the grounds for a good while before heading over to the Eternal Flame at John and Jacqueline Kennedy’s gravesite.

Carousel Billy Goat at National Museum of American History in Washington D.C.

I wasn’t going to post this picture of another goat, this one a billy from a carousel that went round and round, immovable and fixed in time….again another metaphor for those who sit in these seats of power. The reason I wasn’t going to share it was that it’s not very compelling on its own, but I couldn’t find this anywhere else on the internet, so I’m thinking that this might be the only photo that exists of this carousel Billy goat at the National Museum of American History. Funny how everything here in D.C. seems to be a reminder of something that has been as opposed to showing us what can be.

China Town in Washington D.C.

For everything that Washington D.C. might be missing, culture is not one of them. This is a cultural melting pot with people from around the world seen walking these streets. Due to the abundance of diplomatic missions, it seems like foods from around the globe are also present. While Chinatown here has a wonderful gate, there’s not much more to the place than that, at least from our cursory observation. This is definitely not Chinatown from San Francisco or even Los Angeles.

Annapolis, Maryland

This was the best we could do in seeing Annapolis in Maryland. While it comes highly recommended, we have other plans for the rest of the day and will leave this for another visit.

Caroline County, Maryland on the Chesapeake Bay

This is why we couldn’t spend more time in Annapolis: Caroline County! Just kidding, we are driving down along the Chesapeake Bay and are looking forward to the wetlands and quiet after the crowds of D.C.

Ferry at Wicomico River in Whitehaven, Maryland

This is the ferry crossing at 23865 River St. near Route 352 in Whitehaven, Maryland. Just one car at a time gets taken over the Wicomico River.

Caroline Wise and John Wise on a ferry over the Wicomico River in Whitehaven, Maryland

These are what faces look like on their very first ferry crossing in America. The Chesapeake Bay is beautiful, even on a cloudy day.

Narrow bridge just the other side of the ferry in Whitehaven, Maryland

Just after arriving on the other side of our ferry adventure, we have this rickety old wooden bridge to contend with.

Welcome to Virginia state sign

Spent quite a bit of time in the wetlands of Maryland before reaching Virginia, where we were getting nervous it would be dark by the time we saw (or didn’t see) our next landmark.

Susan's Seafood in New Church, Virginia

Caroline is a sucker for signs; the wackier, the better. Had to stop at Susan’s Seafood to snap a photo for our memory books. We didn’t get anything to eat here, so we’ll have to reserve an opinion on that, but we might be back, especially after I read the glowing reviews. Along the way, we also passed the world’s largest decoy factory and another sign at a repair shop that read, “We fix anything but a broken heart.”

It’s dark, seriously dark, by the time we reach the Chesapeake Bay Bridge and Tunnel. So, while we can’t see much from the top of the bridge, these tunnels are amazing while simultaneously being kinda creepy as we plunge below the bay. Once back on the mainland, we headed for Hampton, Virginia, where we had the once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to eat at The Grate Steak, where we got to cook our own steak (or veggie burger). Our hotel was the Legacy Inn by the airport in Richmond, Virginia. We are exhausted and crash well before midnight, as we have asked for a 5:30 wake-up call.

America – Day 12

JWise Photo of the Day, Travels

Caroline Wise and John Wise in front of the White House in Washington D.C.

Today will be a walking day, and we are lucky to have the perfect weather for it. Our first stop was the White House. The excitement of being here in Washington, D.C., is palpable. As a child, I dreamed of one day visiting the nation’s capital, and here I am. You might have guessed my excitement level from the smile on my face.

The White House in Washington D.C.

The other side of the White House. Someday, we will have to go through the protocol to request a visit to this historic residence, someday.

The Washington Monument as seen from across the Tidal Basin in Washington D.C.

We walked across the National Mall and made our first visit to the Lincoln Memorial, then walked out past the Vietnam and Korean War Veterans Memorials before heading to the Tidal Basin for this spectacular view of the Washington Monument.

Franklin Delano Roosevelt Memorial next to the Tidal Basin in Washington D.C.

I knew a man ever so briefly who cared for President Roosevelt and ensured his smoldering cigarette never caught the White House on fire when he was heading to bed. My great-uncle played a role in the lives of several presidents and always remained loyal to his oath of confidentiality throughout his life. This, though, was his favorite of all the men he served in his time of service to our country and the White House.

Bronze of President Jefferson at the memorial honoring his contribution to the United States

President Thomas Jefferson was and is one of my favorite presidents, not just for his eloquence in crafting documents that have held strong for a couple of hundred years but for his renaissance nature of being curious about many things, peoples, and cultures throughout his life. If only today we had statesmen who had the intelligence, foresight, and ambition this leader had. From draftsman of the Declaration of Independence, governor of Virginia, minister to France, to the man who set Lewis & Clark out on an expedition to the unexplored West, allowed for the Louisiana Purchase, and was the third U.S. president. We make a note to someday visit Monticello in Virginia.

Jefferson Memorial in Washington D.C.

The Jefferson Memorial on a beautiful fall day.

The United States Capitol building in Washington D.C.

It was a circuitous route that brought us to the U.S. Capitol building. First, we walked by the Bureau of Engraving and Printing before rejoining the National Mall for an up-close look at the Washington Monument. Next up was the Air & Space Museum, where we took a photo of us standing in front of the Spirit of St. Louis with the plane perfectly in focus and us perfectly out of focus. Then we headed to the Capitol. Have you noticed what an incredibly beautiful day it is?

Inside the Natural History Museum in Washington D.C.

This felt like the perfect metaphor for how things get done here in the United States. The human skeleton represents one side of the population, and the obstinate goat is on the other side; neither side wants to do what the other wants, but somewhere in the middle, a compromise is made. This display was at the Natural History Museum, which is part of the Smithsonian. In our limited time at the museum, we were also able to take in some mummies, dinosaur bones, diverse rocks, and minerals, along with the Hope diamond.

Benjamin Franklin in front of the Old Post Office in Washington D.C.

From Benjamin Franklin, I learned what a polymath was, and from a young age, I knew I wanted to be just like him. His accomplishments are too broad for me to capture here; better if you just go read a Wikipedia article or a book about this great American.

Ford's Theatre in Washington D.C.

The site of the demise of President Abraham Lincoln, our 16th president. Ford’s Theatre is a grim reminder that even great people can be vulnerable to the anger of the person who sees no other way to settle a grievance. We not only visited the inside of the theater, taking note of the Presidential Box where John Wilkes Booth assassinated Lincoln, but we also went across the street to the Petersen House and saw the location where Lincoln passed after he was taken there.

Lincoln Memorial in Washington D.C.

After visiting the sad and tragic site where a beloved president was murdered, it was time to revisit the Lincoln Memorial to take a moment to think about the founding of the United States and the turmoil we have endured so we could be a leading example of what is to be a nation of laws and order.

Abraham Lincoln seated in the Lincoln Memorial in Washington D.C.

This is the man I learned about, who was a self-taught lawyer, an autodidact who inspired me as a child that I could learn anything and become anything I set my sights on. Lincoln failed twice in business before turning 25 years old; he failed eight times running for public office. Yet he persevered and, with determination, became one of the most memorable presidents in the history of the United States. I had a lump in my throat standing before the statue of this great man, and I again have a lump in my throat as I write this.

The White House at night in Washington D.C.

Dinner, sadly, was not at the White House. We took the Metro to Foggy Bottom and walked the rest of the way to Georgetown for a meal at an Indian restaurant. We finished up the night with one last glance at the Washington Monument and then a slow walk past the White House, hoping for the odd chance we’d see President Clinton out smoking a cigar or something.