A Passing

Lara, Dion Terry, Caroline Wise, and John Wise in Windowrock, Arizona

Maybe it’s a reflex to smile when the camera is pointing at you, but these are the most bewildering smiles as we are here in Window Rock, Arizona on the Navajo Reservation to lay Dion’s father, Wilson, to rest. This should be a solemn day, but on the other hand, we are here to celebrate that Wilson Terry was enjoying the company of friends and family near the time of passing.

Dion Terry with his niece Amanda and her sister (name forgotten)

After the church ceremony in St. Michaels, we had to pick up a couple of Dion’s nieces Amanda and Monica who were traveling with us to Wide Ruin, where Dion’s grandmother lived. Dion’s mom, Charity, was traveling with other family members. This was an honor that will never be forgotten.

Navajo Nation Bound

Caroline Wise, Dion Terry, John Wise in Arizona

By this time, Caroline and I had known Dion Terry for a solid five years and helped encourage his push into art as a profession. We’d just returned from our long trip across America, and the next day, Dion called asking if we’d join him and his family for Thanksgiving; after our encounter with this country, it seemed incredibly fitting to have this celebration feast with a Native American family. Tragically, Dion’s father passed away just a few days later.

Northern Arizona

This is our journey up to Window Rock, Arizona, where Wilson Terry is being laid to rest.

America – Day 21

Alamogordo, New Mexico welcome sign in German

Only about 90 miles north of El Paso, Texas, is this little outpost of Alamogordo, New Mexico, where the German Air Force comes to train its pilots. Sadly there’s not a German restaurant to be found, not much of anything else for that matter. To say Caroline was surprised by this sign would be an understatement. Breakfast was here in town at a place called Ramona’s, where we were treated to another yummy Mexican meal. (As of 2018, this place no longer exists)

Caroline Wise at White Sands National Monument, New Mexico

This is the reason we didn’t continue west from El Paso: Welcome to White Sands National Monument.

Caroline Wise leaves a footprint at White Sands National Monument, New Mexico

Wonder what the chances are that 10 million years from now someone discovers my wife’s footprint?

John Wise and Caroline Wise's hand prints in the sand at White Sands National Monument, New Mexico

Or maybe in 100 million years, someone will find our handprints?

White Sands National Monument, New Mexico

After enjoying near-perfect weather for most of the trip our last day out here is again spectacular. Nothing like a thin layer of water to make for a nice reflection of the dune.

Caroline Wise looking through a piece of ice at White Sands National Monument, New Mexico

While the sand might look like snow, it is not, though from the piece of ice Caroline picked up from some pooling water, it’s apparently cold enough out here for it to snow.

Caroline Wise and John Wise driving in New Mexico

Starting the final leg home and our last selfie on the road.

A dollar bill we left at Steins Mercantile in Steins, New Mexico

Ultimately, there would be four dollars stapled to these walls and shelves from four different occasions at Steins Mercantile (pronounced Steens) here in Steins, New Mexico. Sadly, this old ghost town location was shut down after the owner, Larry Link, was murdered in an unsolved crime 11 years after our visit. As of 2018, there might be some limited tours available by reservation only, but I can’t confirm that as of this writing.

The Mighty Bussalo brown VW bus in Arizona

We finally had to try to get a picture of this old VW bus christened the “Mighty Bussalo.” We’d been passing each other since the Louisiana border, and here we were in Arizona, passing one another for the last time. Over the years, we’ve looked for a sign of this car on the internet but never found a thing. The amounts of times we’d passed each other had started to become absurd, and each time it would put giant smiles on our faces.

Sunset entering Phoenix, Arizona

I tried to tone down the colors, but as vibrant as they were as we were entering Phoenix, Arizona, I blamed our camera for not being able to properly deal with the contrast in light and dark. Anyone who has lived here will know that, in fact, this is not all that far off from the truth. We are almost home after driving 8,722 miles out and back across America.

Various food stuffs from across America

While out for these past 21 days we did a fair amount of shopping trying to collect local flavors. The next images are the results of our haul.

Various food stuffs from across America

Various food stuffs from across America

Various food stuffs from across America

Various food stuffs from across America

America – Day 20

Bed vibrating device at the Antlers Inn Motel in Flatonia, Texas

Oh yeah…a vibrating bed and it only costs 25 cents for 15 minutes…plenty long enough. Just where do you find this kind of luxury? At the Antlers Inn Motel in Flatonia, Texas, room 111 and it only cost us $40 – oh yeah!

The Alamo in San Antonio, Texas

Guess what happens when you arrive somewhere at 7:50 in the morning? You leave because the place is closed; that’s what you do. This was and is the Alamo. I suppose we’ll just have to remember the Alamo as a place we could have visited.

Caroline Wise and John Wise driving across Texas

In Junction, Texas, we turned black & white as we entered the Twilight Zone. This is Caroline driving. Flat, wide open, clear weather, and me being tired were all the conditions that had to align like planets in some celestial once-in-a-hundred-years event that triggered this rare phenomenon. Lost from this excursion into the Twilight Zone were my favorite sunglasses she was borrowing, my Dolce & Gabbana’s.

Ozona, Texas welcome sign

Ozona had us thinking of Arizona. Getting closer.

Big broad Texas on Interstate 10

We have a ways to go, but the landscape is beginning to look familiar.

Decrepit old house in Texas

Finally, after 20 days out in America, we are back home, not.

German V-2 rocket at Fort Bliss, Texas

An old German V-2 rocket that had been brought to the United States from Germany along with Wernher von Braun and 120 of his fellow Nazi rocket engineers. This fine specimen is sitting at Fort Bliss, Texas, where I was stationed with the Army back in the ’80s after I first left Germany. Caroline and I visited the base so I could show her a little bit more about my past. The barracks in the background are similar to those that I lived in during my short stay here in El Paso, Texas.

El Paso, Texas at sunset

Just finished an excellent dinner at Avila’s Mexican Food. Being back in the Southwest has its perks.

Western Motel in Alamogordo, New Mexico

Our last night on our cross-country adventure was spent here at the Western Motel (now the White Sands Motel) in Alamogordo, New Mexico. Nearly 13 hours traveling across Texas, accumulating over 700 miles.

America – Day 19

Old house on the bayou in Louisiana

We’ve traveled from the desert over the Great Plains into the Great Lakes region before taking in the New England states down along the Chesapeake Bay and then dropping into Appalachia, the South, and now Bayou country. From a Sod House in Kansas to the White House in D.C. to this floating house in Louisiana.  While one is moving through these environments, it’s hard to register just how dramatic the shift in the landscape and cultures has been.

Creek in rural Louisiana

A bit of fatigue has started setting in and the thought of returning to our bed becomes more appealing. One thing that has become abundantly clear while we’ve been out here is that we want to see it all over again and visit the points in between that we have yet to explore. Before I veer too far out of the moment analyzing this journey, I suppose I should continue with the day at hand.

This was our first encounter with Brahman cattle, and we were struck by how incredibly beautiful these animals are. If they weren’t so enormous, I’d want to jump into their pasture and go ruffle those floppy ears and snuggle their furry, soft-looking necks.

Pink flamingos in Louisiana

To my untrained eye, I initially thought these were pink flamingos, but it turns out that they are roseate spoonbills. Well, that’s even more exotic in my book of experiences. Whoever heard of spoonbills anyway?

Caroline Wise and John Wise on the Gulf coast of Louisiana

Our backdrop is the Gulf of Mexico, which is pretty exciting to us. We’ve encountered the Missouri, Ohio, and Mississippi Rivers, Great Lakes Erie, Ontario, Champlain, the Atlantic, Chesapeake Bay, and now the Gulf Coast. We are feeling inspired to drive over to California so we can include the Pacific as part of the journey, but I’d bet a dollar that when we get back to Arizona, we will stay put for a minute.

Gulf of Mexico in Louisiana

The Gulf of Mexico without us blocking the majority of the view.

Caroline Wise with a bag of shells on the shore of the Gulf of Mexico in Louisiana

We’ve been walking along the shore for quite some time by now, and the bag in Caroline’s hands is evidence of just how many shells we’ve collected.

Sea shells from the Gulf of Mexico in Louisiana

Finding seashells here is not a problem.

Public toilets next the Gulf of Mexico in Louisiana

I asked, and asked again, of Caroline if she was 100% certain she really wanted to use these public toilet facilities. She had to go while my knowledge of what the inside of those toilets looked like would forever be shrouded in blissful ignorance.

Snake in the Bayou of rural Louisiana

It doesn’t look venomous, and I can’t hear a rattle or it hissing at me, so how about you go and pick it up? Caroline did not oblige me, so we can only claim to have seen a snake on this trip as opposed to handling one. Maybe after we join the Pentecostals of Appalachia, we’ll learn just how to deal with these serpents and how to speak in tongues. There is so much to experience in America.

Wetlands of southern Louisiana

I’m fairly certain this is part of the Cameron Prairie National Wildlife Refuge.

Living floating island of Fire Ants in rural Louisiana

And people say Australia is full of loathsome creatures bent on killing you? What’s up with this state of Louisiana with gators, 14-pound beaver rats, snakes, and now this floating island of fire ants? I had this vision that if I stuck a stick into this nest, the ants, realizing they were not connected back to dry land, would swarm over me like hellfire on their trek back to safety, even if it meant sacrificing the host as they would bite me a million times on their escape. I left them alone instead.

Southern Live Oak with Spanish Moss in southern Louisiana

Live oak trees wearing Spanish moss because everything looks better with a fluffy beard.

Refinery in eastern Texas

This is not a strip club; nope, it’s a blurry refinery in eastern Texas photographed while driving fast on Interstate 10. We wanted to stay in Weimar, Texas, because Weimar, but with no lodging, we had to drive on, ending up in Flatonia, Texas, where not only did we get a room, we had some yummy barbecue at Joel’s Bar-B-Q. We have driven close to 7,500 miles since we left home nearly three weeks ago.

America – Day 18

Steam Bath at the Holiday Motel in Houma, Louisiana

This is the mark of a quality motel because a night without a Thermasol is like a night without a vibrating bed, and imagine we only paid $33.66 for the night! Sadly, it wasn’t working. If it had been working, you can bet that we would have been steam bathing all night long.

Louisiana architecture

It’s raining out here or should I say it’s “Thermasoling?” The land is flat, with moss and lichen growing on everything. Caroline has even started accumulating moss on her teeth, though she insists it’s broccoli. (We’ve been dealing with her plant-attracting teeth for a long time now.) What’s with all the dead nutrias around here? Apparently, when rivers are high and these giant beaver rats try to cross the road, they aren’t very successful. Before coming to Louisiana, I didn’t even know that these 14-pound monsters existed. Turns out that at one time they were raised on fur ranches for people who like to wear water rat clothes and that they are an invasive species. To be honest, I’m glad we’re only seeing dead nutria because I’d have a digested load of shellfish in my drawers if one came at me.

Small bridge over a creek in Louisiana

Funny how it was just a couple of days ago we were in the hill country of the South, and now we’re in some nearly tropical swampland where everything is wet.

Lot's of water in Louisiana

The French didn’t sell us a bunch of land; they sold us a lot of water infested with beaver rats, probably some water snakes, mosquitos, mold, slime, moss, and unintelligible accents from the locals. At least it all looks good!

Rain in Louisiana

We’d better start looking for some indoor activities because we’re seeing a lot of rain, that or head for higher ground.

Tabasco Country Store and Factory Tour on Avery Island, Louisiana

Now we’re getting somewhere as in our book there’s nothing so great as history or a factory tour of something really interesting which is about anything to Caroline and me. This is a crown jewel in the world of factory tours for us as whoever thinks that they’ll go see how Tabasco is made. So, what did we see on Avery Island? Vats of peppers fermenting in vinegar and guess what? It makes your eyes burn even though you have to look through the glass to see the actual vats. We left with a tiny bottle of Tabasco mounted on a fridge magnet, which couldn’t have been more than a teaspoon in that 1-inch tall jar, and several pounds of red pepper pulp for boiling seafood.

Konriko Brand Rice Factory Tour in New Iberia, Louisiana

This wonderful woman was our tour guide for the Konriko Brand Rice Factory tour; her name was Elaine. As I said earlier, we needed to find some indoor activities to keep us dry as we weren’t yet ready to start the drive through Texas.

Caroline Wise and John Wise at the Konriko Brand Rice Factory Tour in New Iberia, Louisiana

Don’t tell anyone, but our pockets are full of rice right now because as good as the tour was, we felt we deserved some free rice. While they were selling rice in the gift store, there’s nothing better than free white rice, and we have that Tabasco from the other factory tour to splash on our ill-gotten gains, so we’ll be eating like kings as soon as we get to a place we can boil some water. By the way, I didn’t admit this earlier, but back in Vermont, we scored two mouthfuls of free syrup when no one was looking.

The mythical Turducken from Charlie's of New Iberia, Louisiana

Don’t believe anything from that previous paragraph; it was all fake, like we thought the mythical turducken was fake too. Well, not only does Charlie’s of New Iberia bring turduckens into reality they somehow find fryers large enough to be able to offer whole fried turkeys….because the sugary yams with marshmallows and butter-soaked rolls and potatoes don’t offer enough of the “kill-you” nutrients that make your food just that much yummier. I wonder if the owner of Charlie’s ever gets up to Waukesha, Wisconsin, to visit Jimmy’s Grotto for a Ponza rotta, which is a DEEP-FRIED CALZONE? You just know that Caroline and I have that on our list of places to go and things to try; hopefully, Jimmy’s has a factory tour so we can steal some calzone.

Hurricane evacuation route sign in Louisiana

We didn’t get far today, and by evening, we were only about 100 miles from Houma, Louisiana, where we started our day. Dinner was at Don’s Seafood in Lafayette, as was our stay at the Travelodge. We never did need to take advantage of the hurricane evacuation route.