Pacific Coast – Day 1

Caroline Wise and John Wise near Cambria, California

Left Thursday after work and took off Friday so we could have a decent amount of time out here on the coast of California. We drove 444 miles (713 km) from Phoenix, Arizona, to Ventura, California, though we would have gone further if we hadn’t been so tired after about eight hours of driving. This photo was taken just north of Cambria as we were driving north on Highway 1. There are faster ways to Monterey, but none so scenic.

On Coastal Highway 1 in California

Hints of the sun glisten off the water and we are thrilled to once again be along the shoreline of the Pacific Ocean.

On Coastal Highway 1 in California

That’s Point Sur out there under the low clouds. If you know the layout of the coast, then you know we are now north of Big Sur.

Monterey Bay Aquarium, California

We got into Monterey and wasted no time getting right to the Monterey Bay Aquarium.

Monterey Bay Aquarium, California

This is Kyle; we named him on a previous visit as we were trying to gauge how long each jelly lives here at the aquarium.

Monterey Bay Aquarium, California

This thing, on the other hand, is an alien and must have been teleported from another dimension.

Caroline Wise in Monterey Bay Aquarium, California

Caroline could have stayed here the rest of the night; hell, she could live in the aquarium if they’d let her.

Monterey Bay Aquarium, California

We have to go outside on the patios surrounding the back of the aquarium as the views from here can be as beautiful as those inside.

Monterey Bay Aquarium, California

We finished our visit tonight with the seahorses, but will return tomorrow morning for a bit more aquarium because it’s like that great songwriter once wrote, “You can never have enough of the Monterey Bay Aquarium.” I think that was Frank Sinatra, but then again, no.

Monterey Bay, California

Even at night, we’d prefer to be at the water’s edge.

The City We Live In

Scottsdale, Arizona

Thought I’d drive around the Phoenix area and share a random September day of what it looks like where Caroline and I live. If things look vacant, keep in mind that it’s Labor Day, so school is out, and many businesses are shut for the day. This view is from Scottsdale, looking over one of the many man-made lakes in our state, though this one is just aesthetics and not water supply.

Scottsdale, Arizona

From the hills of Paradise Valley, we get a great view looking northeast towards Scottsdale and the McDowell Mountains in the distance.

Phoenix, Arizona

Downtown Phoenix is a study in sterility devoid of the attributes that engage a population and make it a desirable place to live, though city planners have been working on changing that equation.

Phoenix, Arizona

Architecturally, there is very little in the Central Phoenix corridor that has historical reference since this has been a place constantly churning as it tries to reinvent itself. Plans from previous decades seem to have been designed to make Phoenix a place that flocks of people wouldn’t want to move to too quickly.

Phoenix, Arizona

There are appealing-looking buildings along the way, but without a funkiness of cool places, a gentrified population that might afford a revitalized downtown core will not demand the kind of amenities that will attract creators, musicians, and freaks (I don’t mean junkies and meth heads, they are already here) that make a place hip like downtown L.A., San Francisco, or Seattle.

Phoenix, Arizona

Broad streets are a perfect recipe for disaster unless you intend to feel like there’s no street life. Even when there are concerts or sporting events downtown, it doesn’t feel like meaningful other happenings are going on here; it only feels like it’s event-driven and temporary.

Phoenix, Arizona

Whoever thought stadiums would be the big draw was smoking crack. Maybe another problem is that Phoenix and our surrounding communities simply do not like diversity but love conformity. Smart people move to Silicon Valley, Los Angeles, New York City, Chicago, and Seattle, while economic desperation to escape a smaller town brings people to Arizona, where competition is not so cutthroat.

Phoenix, Arizona

We have the potential to be a cool place (well, HOT in the summer), but our politicians and leaders are isolated in wealthy enclaves and are afraid of alternative cultures.

Phoenix, Arizona

Our great new Burton Barr Library, while being a great resource has also become a favorite cooling-off location for the multitudes of homeless that are scattered throughout Central Phoenix.

Glendale, Arizona

Getting into the suburbs of Phoenix, such as here in Glendale, we have a bit more of a quaint kind of old-town feel but still nothing for young people or those looking for diversity.

Tempe, Arizona

We have the new Tempe Town Lake that, if I’m not mistaken, will be surrounded by overpriced real estate that will do nothing to bring a new focal point to the region.

Arizona State University should be a natural place to find alt-culture, right? You’d be wrong. This is a partying school that doesn’t produce genius entrepreneurs like Stanford over in California or science prodigies as M.I.T. does in Boston. Nope, this is ASU, and while Caroline and I have been to several events at the campus featuring ethnically diverse performances (that are free for students), we very rarely, if ever, see students attending (unless enticed by extra credit). Why not, you might ask? Because they are over on Mill Avenue drinking.

Scottsdale, Arizona

Old Town Scottsdale, because we know how to draw in the old retiree who is looking for expensive western art for their Cape Cod estate.

Scottsdale, Arizona

So if you are looking for cactus tchotchkes for your grandkids, $10,000 sculptures, or a place to not have to see one immigrant or person of color this is your kind of place.

Scottsdale, Arizona

The Borgata is another high-end shopping center you never knew we needed. Doesn’t seem like anyone else knows we need it either because while I come here for lunch occasionally, I seem to be one of 10 people a day who visits.

Scottsdale, Arizona

The Scottsdale Airport is surrounded by office parks and a couple of resorts. Kind of boring out this way; oh wait, that’s what I’ve been maintaining this entire blog entry. Don’t get me wrong, it is beautiful to live in Arizona. The blue skies and perfect weather are the main attractions, and there’s a certain logic to living somewhere so boring that it makes everywhere else you go seem all the more amazing. When I was growing up in L.A. I thought that the city was boring and yet I never felt I needed to go anywhere else. In Phoenix, I’m always looking forward to where we might travel to.

Monument Valley to the Grand Canyon

Monument Valley, Utah

Everyone should have the opportunity to drive into Monument Valley early in the morning because this place is simply otherworldly.

Monument Valley, Utah

Photos cannot share the scale or sense of being at a place like a visit can. While these quick weekend jaunts might see us effectively speeding through our environment, we are always thinking that it is better to have fleeting moments of these places than to stay at home to see yet another match between some sports teams that have no relationship to our sense of aesthetic reality.

Monument Valley, Utah

There’s a small sense of tragedy here when one thinks about how these monoliths stand above the floor of the valley due to everything that has fallen away and then realizes how, at some point, they will be gone forever. Fortunately, that won’t happen in our lifetimes or for many lifetimes to come.

Monument Valley, Utah

I’ve been near this location before, and I’ll return in the years to come, but never have I seen this rock lit in just this way that it was so easy to see a face.

Lake Powell, Arizona

After a couple of hours in Monument Valley, we drove south towards Kayenta, stopping for lunch at the Golden Sands Cafe (now closed) and then onto Road 98 towards Page and Lake Powell. You might notice that the lake is full!

Chief Yellowhorse Trading Post, Arizona

Because “Nice Indians” are way better to shop with for Indian tchotchkes than angry ones.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

That’s the Little Colorado Canyon out there. It joins the Colorado River in the Grand Canyon, which is where we are going.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

We are stopping in the Grand Canyon National Park because we can. It might be a bit out of the way if what we want to do is get home early, but as I said before, we’d rather collect these impressions and know that we’ve used our time to the best of our ability. This is the Desert View Watchtower, designed by Mary Colter and built in 1932.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Needed at least one obligatory scenic view of the Canyon.

Caroline Wise and John Wise at Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

And, of course one of us in front of it too. We made it to Hopi House over by the El Tovar Hotel in Grand Canyon Village before pointing the car south for our four-hour drive home. Must have been about midnight when we finally got home, but not bad that we were able to visit Sunset Crater, Wupatki, Navajo National Monument, Valley of the Gods, Monument Valley, Lake Powell, and the Grand Canyon all in one weekend.

Wupatki to Monument Valley

Wupatki National Monument, Arizona

We drive north out of Phoenix and, in a couple of hours, are passing Flagstaff. Just a wee bit further north, we turn right towards Sunset Crater National Monument where the road leads us right to Wupatki National Monument. This is not our first visit here; it won’t be our last.

Painted Desert, Arizona

On Highway 160 into the Navajo and Hopi Reservations, the stark landscape has a prehistoric beauty that, while visually appealing, seems difficult to tame for comfortable living.

Elephant's Feet, Arizona

These are the Elephant’s Feet near Tonalea on the Navajo Trail. We are driving northeast.

Navajo National Monument, Arizona

Looking into the Navajo National Monument and making note that we need to schedule a hike to the Betatakin alcove and ruins (pictured), which is a five-mile round trip. Equally as important but more strenuous is the 17-mile round trip hike to Keet Seel that requires a permit. Camping permits for overnight stays in the area are also available.

Monument Valley, Utah

It’s 4:00 p.m. as we leave Kayenta, Arizona, and stop for this photo near milepost 398 on Highway 163. Not making great time, but we love the sights, so we’ll get to our destination when we do, and that will be fine.

Monument Valley, Utah

Monument Valley and some asses come into view as we approach the Utah border here in northern Arizona.

Monument Valley, Utah

Tomorrow, we’ll enter Monument Valley, but it’s getting late for where we are planning to spend the night, so we need to keep going.

Caroline Wise and John Wise in Valley of the Gods, Utah

We are peeking into Valley of the Gods here in Utah before checking into the Mexican Hat Lodge.

Cow Canyon Trading Post in Bluff, Utah

With so much light of the day still available, we opted to drive up to Bluff, Utah. In addition to Navajo rugs, pottery, and jewelry, the Cow Canyon Trading Post has a restaurant that we ate at the year before while my mother-in-law Jutta was visiting us. We stopped in just for the photo today because the last time we were here, I forgot to snap an image for a reminder of exactly where we sat for a perfectly wonderful dinner at a place that surpassed all of our expectations for being so far off the beaten path.

Mexican Hat Inn, Utah

We had to skip dinner at Cow Canyon for the selfish reason that I was not going to miss having steak here at the Mexican Hat Lodge, which is also known as “Home of the Swinging Steak.” Live music, wandering dogs, coyotes howling in the distance, an occasional car passing by, and a lot of stars here in the Valley of Gods are the perfect companions for a night away from it all.