Independence Day in Oregon – Day 2

Saddle West Casino in Pahrump, Nevada

We left the Saddle West Hotel Casino RV Resort, one of two motels in town, at about 6:00 in the morning. Pahrump has a big advantage in comparison to other Nevada towns – especially those in neighboring Clark County (such as Vegas, Henderson, and Laughlin) – prostitution is legal here in Nye County; several billboards enlighten the unsuspecting (?) traveler of this fact, and there is even a brothel museum. We are probably going to come through here again on a future trip and hope to take a closer look at that. Another curiosity finds a home here in Pahrump; the radio show Coast to Coast AM hosted by Art Bell lives and operates from out this way. If you ever wondered why he opens his show with “from the kingdom of Nye” – now you know.

Just north of town, we turned west on Highway 190 in the direction of the California state line and Death Valley National Park, but on this side of the border lies a small exclave called Devils Hole bordering Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge. Naturally, we were curious and had decided to pay a visit to both. Another “Devils Something” notch on our National Park bedpost, who could resist? While a lady at a gas station effectively placed some doubt in our minds whether our Beetle could handle the unpaved road into the refuge, we also started to wonder what kind of “meadow” we could hope to find since, for several miles, we saw nothing but the usual stuff such as dry shrubs, sagebrush, and short trees. Nevada certainly managed to make it all look pretty enough and even arranged some wildlife for us: we saw several bighorn sheep standing on a hill in the distance. We eventually hit our turnoff into the refuge, although there was no sign other than “Bill Copeland Memorial Highway.” Judging from the map and the fact that we were heading for a faint cluster of greenery, we started believing that we were on the right track.

Caroline and I were beginning to have doubts about whether we would be able to access Devils Hole from our current location. We drove right by it because it was just a chain-link fenced-off area that looked like a lot of nothing. The Hole lies near the refuge’s northeastern exit, which is stocked with xeroxed info maps; that’s how we realized that a) we had just missed Devils Hole, the world’s only habitat of the Devils Hole Pupfish (clap, everybody), and b) that we hadn’t even seen the best of the Ash Meadows Refuge yet. But first, we turned around and pulled off the road next to the (closed) access road to the Devils Hole parking lot. They even discourage you from parking near the Hole. Devils Hole is not very scenic but is a rather heavily guarded scientific research area. We hung out for a short while, trying to spot one of the elusive and precious fishies in the water below us, but that proved impossible even with binoculars at the ready.

Highway 373 led us to the other side of the refuge to visit the crown jewel itself, the interpretive boardwalk to Crystal Creek Spring.ย The reason why there are these patches of green meadows and wetlands out here lies in the hidden groundwater.

The area has a large reservoir of “fossil” water, meaning it stems from an ancient melted glacier. It surfaces in various spots in this valley, offering habitats for various kinds of – you guessed it – desert pupfish, including the Ash Meadow pupfish. These wily little fellows have the capability of surviving even in the meekest of hostile puddles. Farmers used to pump the water away from the springs, and the pupfish all but disappeared, but in recent years, the larger springs are being restored, and the pupfish are recovering. Unlike the nearly barren Devils Hole, Crystal Creek Spring is an incredible oasis, overwhelmingly beautiful, clear, and deep. You can see the pupfish swimming near the algae at the bottom with the naked eye.

By now, it was time to jump into the Beetle again and continue on our journey. We rejoined the paved road on Highway 373 North until reaching the junction of Highway 95 West. About 40 miles further on, we passed the little town of Beatty, Nevada, and turned onto Highway 374 towards the Californian border. Four miles out of Beatty, we found Rhyolite – our next destination. In 1908, this was Nevada’s third-largest town, sprawling with over 8,000 inhabitants. Today, only a few of the brick structures remain, most of them in ruins. Rhyolite’s most interesting building is the “bottle house,” made with the help of over 10,000 bottles (mostly beer bottles of the pre-Budweiser variety). The place is in pretty good shape compared with the schoolhouse, for example.

An example of one of the buildings in this ghost town that hasn’t fared well over the intervening years of neglect and lack of a population.

The same can be said about vehicles that were left to the elements; they likely won’t be driven again any time soon.

Just next to the Rhyolite townsite (in the suburbs, so to speak) lies an outdoor art exhibit of a curious kind – the Goldwell Open Air Museum, a project of the late Belgian artist Albert Szukalski (1945-2000). He founded the museum in 1984 with his sculpture “The Last Supper,” and later on, several other sculptures by various and distinguished artists were added, such as the true blond above. A truly unique art experience that has been seen by millions of visitors on their way to Rhyolite.

Finally, we headed back towards Beatty, where we stopped for gas, postcards, and the loo. On the way out of our pit stop, we saw a sign offering “free police car rides.” Unfortunately, only for shoplifters; what a drag. Near the Esmeralda County line but still in Nye, we passed another example of the kind of business that Nevada is famous for, and I’m not talking about casinos. For some reason, these establishments are usually called “So-and-so Ranch,” although, in reality, the buildings resemble double-wide trailers. Anyway, in case you ever asked yourself what a brothel in the middle of nowhere looks like, wonder no more.

The road had started to climb higher and the surroundings became a tad greener and then dipped again for another encounter with the lovely sagebrush, especially true when it is fresh and fragrant. We are looking at a small corner of Palmetto, Nevada. Founded in the early 1860s after silver was found in the area, the town went through not one but two revivals, only to disappear for good during its last downturn. It was named after the local Joshua trees which the settlers thought were related to palm trees. A few miles past Palmetto, we spotted a few bighorn sheep; unfortunately, there was no chance to pull over for a picture.

Back in California for only about 10 miles before swinging back into Nevada. While we have now passed through Oasis, California, we can’t tell you much about it.

Where the heck are we where people have to be warned about not bringing their explosives-laden vehicles through the main gate? This is obviously not Disneyland.

Mountains and sagebrush are not a bad combo.

We needed to dig into some driving as the day was quickly getting away from us since we had spent a fair share of our time checking stuff out, but this scene was too pretty to let pass. We are on the road passing through Nixon in rural western Nevada, looking out over Pyramid Lake. A bit further up the road, we’ll encounter Gerlach, Nevada, and remain on state route 447 until we return to California on our way toward Cedarville and points beyond.

This is Just Stuff and is a place for a bit of all things, including souvenirs, because once you enter Pine Creek on the Oregon border, the first thing you are likely needing to do is shop in a little funky joint to jump right into the Oregon vibe.

This is our second time this year and the second time in our lives that we are visiting Oregon. The first time this past March, we crossed over an eastern border of the state; this time, it’s a southern border. If you believe you are starting to see a trend, you’d not be mistaken. I can nearly assure you that it’s only a short matter of time before we enter the state over on the southwest side to take in Coastal Oregon from that perspective.

Is it a real geyser? Who cares? It’s pretty and reliable.

This single rocket on the Fourth of July is why we’ve driven nearly 1,000 miles to Lakeview, Oregon. Sitting on top of trucks and in lawn chairs like we’re at the drive-in in rural America is what the celebration of freedom is all about. Happy birthday, America!

Independence Day in Oregon – Day 1

Caroline Wise and John Wise driving away from Phoenix, Arizona

Our Independence Day adventure started after picking Caroline up from work at 4:00 p.m., bags packed, cooler fully loaded, and gas in the tank. While we made our way northwest towards Wickenburg, we watched looming dark monsoon clouds building up and could not help wondering whether we’d miss a good rain in the valley while out on the road; this is usually how it works.

Nothing, Arizona

At Wickenburg, we turned north on Highway 93, which brought us to Nothing, Arizona, which is actually a little something. What exactly Nothing is remains unknown as we didn’t need gas and there was nothing we needed from the All Mart store. North of here, the road becomes known as the Joshua Tree Parkway of Arizona. We did get rained on a little near Wickieup, and a few times, lightning flashes were visible to the east, but no monsoons like the clouds earlier portended.

Sunset near the Arizona and Nevada border

We crossed the Colorado River into Nevada at Bullhead City but didn’t bother to stop in Laughlin, NV instead opting to enjoy the beautiful sunset we were driving into. As darkness fell, we turned off the road at Searchlight and started zigzagging back and forth over the Nevada/California state lines a bit until we finally reached Primm, Nevada.

Whiskey Pete's Casino in Primm, Nevada

Why would we go out of our way to visit this tiny speck on the map? Because we found out that Whiskey Pete’s Casino here has on display the bullet hole-ridden “death car” of Bonnie and Clyde! As it turned out, the car was relocated into the shopping mall connected to the Primm Valley Resort and Casino across the freeway. It used to be called the “Primadonna Resort” – “Primm-adonna”, get it? They did come to their senses at the end of the nineties, apparently, and renamed the place. On our way into the mall, we watched a bat circling just a few feet over our heads. spooky!!!

Bonnie and Clyde's bullet ridden car in Primm, Nevada

The old car is sitting in a glass box featuring a couple of showroom dummies dressed in period clothes sporting nasty-looking weaponry. Caroline rather liked “Bonnie’s” dress; it was red and black and very tasteful, while the “men” were wearing suits. It was kind of creepy to look at this vehicle where two people were practically executed.

Clyde Barrow's shirt he died in

In another display was the shirt that Clyde Barrow wore the day he was killed. An amazing fact is that he was a very small man; Caroline might barely fit into that shirt! There were a lot of additional items on display referring to Bonnie and Clyde here.

Not pictured is the armored car that belonged to Dutch Schultz, although his car looked a lot more snazzy than theirs. It seems their notoriety far surpasses his “more modest” claim to fame – he was “only” known as the “Bronx Beer Baron,” controlling the booze trade and numbers racket in the Bronx and surrounding areas in the 1920s. I can’t quite tell why the sign said “Dutch Schultz/Al Capone gangster car” – maybe Al snapped up the custom-built armored limousine after Dutch’s untimely demise? The car does sport some bulletholes but is otherwise flawlessly restored. Dutch, by the way, was shot in a bar in 1935 and kicked the bucket in a hospital soon after without ever revealing the perpetrators, thus inspiring William S. Burrough’s book “The Last Words of Dutch Schultz” (among others).

Buffalo Bill's Casino in Primm, Nevada

Primm Valley Resort also hosts “fun” events such as concerts by Eddie Money, Loverboy, and Survivor on the 4th of October. I guess the name “Survivor” says it all! Primm’s third casino, in addition to Whiskey Pete’s and Primm Valley, is Buffalo Bill’s, home of the “Desperado,” one of the world’s tallest and fastest roller coasters (at least at some point), which was not running when we arrived, lucky Caroline! Instead, we enjoyed Buffalo Bill’s neon marquee, surely one of the prettiest casino signs seen so far! But it was now 9:45 p.m. time to hit the road toward our hotel about 80 miles away in Pahrump, Nevada. Thirty minutes later, we passed a gun range offering submachine guns for passing tourists to come to shoot stuff up with. Still feeling gangster feverish, we would have stopped to give it a try, but business hours are only 9:00 a.m. to 9:00 p.m. Where is a 24-hour machine gun range when you need it?

We arrived in Pahrump at about quarter to midnight and were happy to fall into bed.

Miami, Pima, Clifton in Arizona

Bullion Plaza School in Miami, Arizona

On the lookout for old buildings, peeling paint, and rusting junk, this was the theme of a solo trip east toward the New Mexico border today. This building was nearly left to decay before it was rescued to turn into a museum. The Bullion Plaza School opened back in 1923 as a grammar school and then, by 1994, was no longer safe, so it was closed. The museum that is housed here now has limited hours, so it’s better that you check their website before just showing up. To visit the newly christened Bullion Plaza Cultural Center & Museum, click the link on the left.

Miami, Arizona

Leaving Phoenix via Mesa, I passed through Superior and Globe before arriving here in Miami. This place is nearly a ghost town, or should be: not much left in the way of infrastructure, but a lot of potential for a nice old cozy town if people would make the investment. Then again, I say this about all the old towns I visit. Back in its heyday during the 1930s, about 7,500 people were living here with the local mine humming; today, the population is down to about 1,900 and shrinking.

Eastern Arizona Museum in Pima, Arizona

Further down the road, I’m stopping in at the Eastern Arizona Museum in Pima (originally called Smithville by its Mormon settlers) it’s one of the few towns on this stretch of Highway 60 that has been growing over the past 50 years!

Pima, Arizona

Oh, how I wish that someone would gut the old Pima theater built back in the 1930s and restore it. Caroline and I would certainly travel out this way for festivals and special screenings if we could make a full-fledged event with all the amenities of it.

Clifton, Arizona

So maybe if some of these buildings are beyond being repaired under sound financial terms, then build modern lofts in their place with the amenities that would make them desirable.

Clifton, Arizona

Clifton, Arizona, and its neighbor Morenci are the last towns on the Coronado Trail Scenic Byway going north before you enter the twisting 94-mile drive to Alpine, Arizona, which will likely take you about three hours to navigate. To say there are a lot of curves is an understatement. An interesting fact to keep in mind as you transition from desert to alpine terrain, you will go through as many “Life Zones” on this one road in Arizona compared to driving nearly any other from Mexico to Canada.

Clifton, Arizona

This feeling of being out West and walking the streets where people who lived here nearly 100 years ago would recognize most everything, though it would have greatly aged and fallen into decrepitude, is something I probably don’t experience often enough to sear the images into my mind. Maybe taking more photos will help?

Clifton, Arizona

Doesn’t look like this doorknob has been used more than a few times in the past 40 years.

Clifton, Arizona

The Velvet Ice Cream company is still in business 86 years after its founding. Oh, what I wouldn’t give to see what the shop looked like and to listen to the customers back when this freezer was new, and an ice cream treat was one of the great luxuries in life.

Clifton, Arizona

Sometimes, the train didn’t need to be a diesel giant to drag the ore out of the mine, and the old steam engine would do the trick.

Monument to Melvin Jones founder of the Lions Clubs from Fort Thomas, Arizona

On the way back, I stopped at Fort Thomas to check out this memorial. Turns out that Melvin Jones was born here in Fort Thomas, Arizona; he was the founder of the Lions Club, whose mission is to address the betterment of members’ communities and the world. And that’s how I spent my Thursday.

Highway 99 in Arizona

Winslow, Arizona

Took a drive up Highway 99 today to Winslow, Arizona. I found some lunch and then drove around town, checking out some of the older parts that were falling to ruin. This iconic “Standin’ on the Corner” spot in town used to be part of the main thoroughfare back when Route 66 sliced across America. Progress brought distress to a lot of the towns that were cut off as people sped by on Interstate 40.

Whiting Bros. Gas Station in Winslow, Arizona

Whiting Bros. Gas and Motels was a chain of small businesses here in the Southwest, with their first gas station popping up in St. Johns, Arizona, back in 1926. By the 1990s the Whiting company was essentially finished, though one gas station still retains the name over in Moriarty, New Mexico. Update: the building in this photo has since been demolished.

LZ Budget Motel in Winslow, Arizona

LZ Budget Motel was also once a Whiting Bros. property, but it changed hands over the years until finally, by the time I arrived here in 2002, the place was shuddered.

Winslow, Arizona

Due to America no longer being able to create jobs in areas outside our major cities, we are witnessing the total decay of our past. Instead of investing in infrastructure like broadband and giving investment incentives to entrepreneurs to open shop in places like Winslow, we are letting them crumble. Then again, we have failed to invest in our education system instead of opting to accept mediocrity so that even if tech jobs came to these parts employees would have to be imported. Update: most of these buildings have been demolished.

Highway 99 in Arizona

Hard to tell just how big this fire is, but one thing is obvious: it’s burning. I’m driving back down Highway 99.

Highway 99 in Arizona

These old classic cars are probably beyond repair and make me wonder if Winslow is effectively in the same condition.

Highway 99 in Arizona

It is seriously beautiful out on these open plains. Too bad others may not agree.

Our House

Condo of John and Caroline Wise in Scottsdale, Arizona

Ok, so it’s not a travel destination, well, unless we were coming back from a trip. Just thought I would post this here to show that in between all the travels, films, festivals, and other outings, we did have somewhere to return to for our brief moments in Arizona.

Condo of John and Caroline Wise in Scottsdale, Arizona

The tragic thing about this place is that we rarely ever use the kitchen for more than making tea and occasionally baking something or other. We only on occasion use the dining room as we typically eat right at our computer, where we also entertain ourselves. The living room is only used when we have company over. We have a second bedroom, and it has been used, but mostly it’s empty, and we try to keep the air-conditioning vent closed. We have three bathrooms because why not?

Condo of John and Caroline Wise in Scottsdale, Arizona

Our bedroom is one of two places we love here, and while the bedroom is just that, we have a balcony that offers us a great view looking from the south to the west and the north.

Condo of John and Caroline Wise in Scottsdale, Arizona

This is the other place we spend the majority of our time sitting right next to each other. The photo on my screen of Caroline was from our trip this past weekend to Los Angeles.

Condo of John and Caroline Wise in Scottsdale, Arizona

It’s bright, airy, and wide open, and while we like looking at it, it doesn’t feel lived in.

Andy the cat

Our cats (this is Andy) probably get more use of the place than we do as they roam all over the place. However, I think as long as they have one cozy place in the sun, they could lounge in and one dark corner each where they could hide, they’d be happy anywhere.