International Folk Art and Meow Wolf

I don’t believe I’ve ever shared so many photos featuring Caroline in a single blog post; I’ve counted 16 of them below. Having stayed in Gallup, New Mexico, last night, we had a three-hour trek northeast to Santa Fe before today’s main event got underway. This random stop on the Laguna Reservation was used to break the fast and slake our growing hunger, and so it was, right here next to a sign warning us not to trespass, that we took our first meal of the day. Not another minute was wasted as we had important stuff ahead.

Parking ambiguities out of the way (which included driving 15 minutes away from Museum Hill, where the International Folk Art Market was being held after a two-year hiatus following COVID), we were on a bus heading right back to the event up on Museum Hill in Santa Fe, New Mexico. No exaggeration; I don’t believe we were here at IFAM more than five minutes before Caroline fell in love with this piece from Academia De Rebozo Mexiquense out of Tenancingo, Mexico. What appears to be a shawl is actually a rebozo and was designed by Carlos Amador Lopez Bringas, the gentleman on Caroline’s right who is also the owner of the company.

Next up was a rather pricey item Caroline felt heaps of guilt purchasing, but with only four bags at the market, it felt like this one might not last long. While she’s flat out in love with her current purse from CTTC, the Peruvian Textile Center in Cusco co-founded by Nilda Callañaupa Álvarez (more about her shortly), I felt like this one complimented Caroline’s current wardrobe and looked like nothing I’ve ever seen in Arizona. With a quick swipe of the card for nearly $500, my wife was going home with a handmade purse from the collective of craftspeople under the guidance of Gulnora Odilova from Shakhrisabz, located in southern Uzbekistan. The young lady posing with Caroline is Sugdiyona Omonova.

Indigo might have been Caroline’s middle name in a former life because she certainly has something for this deep blue hue. I’ve never seen her able to pass clothes dyed using this plant that apparently was first used about 6,000 years ago in Huaca Prieta, Peru. Standing next to Caroline and her new blouse is Aïssata Namoko from Mali. She is the soul behind Coopérative Djiguiyaso, offering textiles inspired by ancient Dogon tie-dye patterns from her home country.

Sadly, we are rushing through here as we purchased a pass that is for a timed entry lasting but three hours. The pass doesn’t expire per se, with authorities seeking to remove us from the grounds, but we are also trying to be considerate of the conditions that were set in order for this year’s IFAM to take place. Back when I made the reservations, I bought entry for both Friday and Saturday in case our few hours here on Friday were not enough. So, on one hand, as we fly through, we are content that tomorrow, we can return bright and early.

Of course, our return must be premised on the idea that we’ll still have money to buy other things, but at least for now, the frenzy has subsided. As first-time visitors, we had no real idea of what to expect, and the conditions of our entry were not encouraging to make a day of the festivities. Should we ever return, we’ll know better. What I’m referring to are the relatively poor food options that have a feeling of being from the county fair, meh. There were a couple of vendors with ethnic offerings, but instead of best representing the diversity of craftspeople on hand for authenticity, it felt to me as though things were aimed at a bunch of boring, somewhat wealthy old people who lack a certain something for culinary experimentation.

There was also a stage featuring live performances, but we didn’t check the schedule or give it a second glance as we had 164 vendors to familiarize ourselves with. And if we thought we’d just glide by some, people like Evah Mudenda of Ilala Palm Baskets from Zimbabwe dragged us in and wanted to show us her wares. Again and tragically, we didn’t feel comfortable stopping everywhere due to this time-restricted visit. Ultimately, we did learn that those restrictions would in no way be enforced, but leaving Phoenix with these ideas, we’d made plans for a timed entry for a different event this afternoon that I’ll be sharing just below.

Peru seems well represented today; this is the stall of Olinda Silvano Inuma de Arias, who is sharing designs known as Kené, an ancient art representing nature and the living culture of the Shipibo-Konibo people of the lower Amazon.

Caroline’s attention perked right up when she immediately recognized the bag and weaving style seen here; these are the makers of the purse she’s been carrying for years now. As she’s admiring the goods, she proudly pulls her bag forward, and a woman looks at it understanding right away its provenance. Sheepishly, Caroline points out that it needs repairs and that she should have already dealt with it, but the woman tells her to hand it to her, and she’ll repair it right here. A bit embarrassed, reluctant even, Caroline lets it go, and the woman takes off her felt hat to pull a needle from under the brim, just in case something like this should present itself, right? In a minute, the loose threads are sewn back in, and other than needing a good dry-cleaning, Caroline’s hand-woven purse is in better shape than when we arrived.

Caroline is gushing about the work of this collective known as Centro De Textiles Tradicionales Del Cusco of Peru. She’s pawing ponchos, blankets, and various textiles and is obviously so enamored with their work that I know we’ll be leaving with something from these ladies. It seems it’s the poncho, but the design of the blanket is so beautiful, too… But the poncho is so much more practical, so it’s settled, or is it? Go with the first thing that really grabbed you, which was actually a purse, though she didn’t like the zipper, so it was the poncho. After paying for it, I asked the ladies if we could get a photo with them so we could capture the moment and subsequently share these things here on my blog; they obliged us, obviously. As we are saying our goodbyes and thanks, someone else walks up asking for Nilda, the woman with the felt hat that fixed Caroline’s purse was pointed to. Oh yeah, her badge says just that. My wife had an emotional celebrity/mentor moment as she was dumbstruck that it was actually Nilda Callañaupa Álvarez herself whose hands did the work on her bag and is responsible for bringing the women’s work of Peru’s weavers to the attention of the world.

And with that, it was time for us to catch the shuttle back to our car so we could make our next appointment. Good thing we’ll be back tomorrow at 9:00 as this was certainly far too rushed. I should mention that there are four individual museums here that will all have to wait for a subsequent visit for us to spend time in.

Meow, is anyone home here at this bowling alley turned something altogether different?

We have entered the peculiar world of the Meow Wolf, knowing nearly nothing of what to expect for our $45-per-person price of admission. I’ve heard great word-of-mouth reports and wild enthusiasm from those who know of it; even Caroline’s boss highly recommended it, but come on $45? This better be great.

While this wasn’t for me, Caroline jumped right in, donning the protective gloves to hunt through these uranium glass pellets, looking for a specific one that is supposed to be glowing at 553 nanometers and that, if found, can be used to open a secret passage but you only have one chance. Sadly, her myopia didn’t allow her to pick the right one, even with my loud encouragement telling her exactly where it was. The time limit is in place so players don’t suffer from radiation burns.

This fossil mammoth skull was found in the Ural Mountains near Mount Narodnaya in the Khanty–Mansi Autonomous Okrug of Tyumen Oblast, Russia, only 0.5 km to the east of the border of the Komi Republic. During the Soviet era, scientists discovered that the extinct ice-age herbivores of the area had been eating grasses that only grew over deposits of uranium, which was how they discovered the material Russia was to use in the nuclear weapons. This rare luminous fossil, now part of Meow Wolf, is of significance for solving the puzzle that has been wittily crafted here.

How is anyone supposed to figure these things out? The value of the Scrabble letters is 40; when you hold up four fingers on your left hand and make a zero with your right in front of the gray camera, the flash will blink a Morse code message that you need to get to the next clue. Seriously, Meow Wolf?

Obviously, we figured it out because Caroline’s sitting on this bench.

We interviewed nearly a dozen people passing by here trying to figure out how to swing from one of the vines to a balcony that will appear once enough weight is hanging from the vine, but I’m 59 years old and not sure I have the upper body strength to attempt Tarzan moves without a safety net so we skipped this part.

Damnit, Caroline, you’ll get E. coli poisoning or COVID trying this chicken that’s been sitting there for how long and touched or licked by how many others before you?

We stood here for close to 45 minutes while the acid had us peaking, and the entire scene was a dripping puddle of multi-colored flowing lines and throbbing fluorescence.

Be sure you know what you’re doing because once you’ve entered one door, the dimension on the other side may not allow you to pass through from whence you came; we learned this the hard way. Beware the camper.

I told you, portals don’t always go well.

I can’t tell you with any certainty that the telepathic intrusion I believe was real actually came from this rat that told me that this construct right here is the brain and utility that operates this entire facility and that with this knowledge I was given means that the co-founder of Meow Wolf Matt King was going to have to die the following day. Sure enough, Mr. King passed away on July 9th, the day after our visit; he was only 37 years old.

While I was mind-melding with a rat, Caroline claims she emerged from this lavender creature that belched her out like a whale spitting out kayakers. As she tells it, after walking through the camper, her path took her into the entrails of a moist tunnel of peculiar humming and singing that appeared to emanate from a rodent-like thing until she found herself here hugging this frog thing or whatever it was.

In the viewfinder of our Instamatic camera, we were black and white, and the background was colorful. This place is working on some kind of magic level that is nothing short of baffling.

That thing could beg all it wanted to; we were not going to crawl into its hole.

The payoff for enduring the blistering hot rays was that by waving your hands and arms; you were able to play this ethereal music. Maybe they should warn visitors not to try playing this invisible instrument with their eyes before they enter.

By now, we are growing bored; just look at how meaningless this is.

I lied; one cannot be bored after being turned into a blue midget Oompa Loompa. How’d they do that?

No, we won’t enter your holes either.

Did you forget to look in the teapot, the cupboard, or under the table?

Truth.

If you are not precisely 5 foot 6 and 1/4th inches tall (168.275 centimeters), you will not see the optical illusion here. This photo that does not represent what one would see at the right height was only allowed to be shared on the condition that I don’t post the truth.

Lost in the forest of dendrites that press out of the mind of earth, or was this another one of those moments where my camera captured the hallucination brought on by the mushroom/acid cocktail we tossed back an hour ago?

This is a holographic projection sampled using an X-ray technique that allows for the visualization of the inside of your lower intestine, sphincter, and, in this case, Caroline’s collection of hemorrhoids. Yep, that’s what it looks like up my wife’s butt.

Who is laughing now, wife?

It’s not every day one is offered the opportunity to play the ribcage of a glowing monster, but when it does happen, you must be at Meow Wolf.

We’ve entered the teleportation vehicle with its quantum wave flux elliptical centrifuge that will spit us back out into reality as; apparently, we were not tasty enough to forever remain in the belly of this former bowling alley. Fine, we certainly got our $45 of value and are ready for some fresh air and maybe food.

This, unfortunately, placed sign might be good for traffic, but the sense of admonishment it shouts at us not to enter Cafe Pasqual’s New Mexican restaurant is going to have to be ignored. Our reservation at the community table was for the second they opened. We’ve lost track of how many visits we’ve made to this Santa Fe landmark, and once again, we’ll leave satisfied.

Did we get stuffed? Is the Pope Catholic? Does he shit in the woods? Only if he’s hanging out at Meow Wolf I suppose, though who really knows? Anyway, I’m not here to talk about the bowel movements of the holy pontiff; we are out for a walk under the setting sun, trying to work off some of the gorging we inadvertently did.

Oh, look, pretty flowers.

Santa Fe is nothing if not a city of art. We are in front of Keen Contemporary, where our friend Dion Terry has pieces on display and for sale. Unfortunately, they were closed during our visit, but at least we could spot one of his works there just right of center, the bird in a white frame.

Why isn’t this stuff in Meow Wolf?

Art would be the only reason Caroline and I should have purchased a large house, so we could fill every corner with groovy things that would make us smile as we discovered other things in corners we’d forgotten we bought.

Does this look like something people who stay at Motel 6 would buy? Well, we are staying over at that $70-a-night place, and I swear that if this giant snail fit in our apartment, we’d so take it home with us, price be damned.

Trip 13 Going to New Mexico

Superstition Mountains as seen from north of Fountain Hills, Arizona

It’s not even been 72 hours since we returned from our 4th of July jaunt to Utah, and we are already bouncing right back out, this time to Santa Fe, New Mexico. Right now, it’s only 8:00 in the morning, and I pulled into the coffee shop to race through prepping a few more photos from last weekend and jot down the beginning of another departure. At the moment, I don’t have a firm idea of what time we’ll be leaving Phoenix as Caroline has to finish her work day, but I’d guess that we’ll hit the road somewhere between 3:00 and 5:00. Our plan has us driving to Gallup, New Mexico, this afternoon, but if we can go further, that’d be terrific. So, with this first note of the day in the bag, it’s time to turn my attention to completing a few more photos before making my way home to pack.

Al & Diane's Red Onion Lounge in Heber-Overgaard, Arizona

Caroline was ready at 3:00 p.m., but this time, I was running behind because I had the bright idea at 2:15 to take advantage of a sale that Verizon had just sent to me. I had less than 72 hours to respond to an $800 discount on a new Samsung S22 Ultra phone upgrade. Normally, I’d be getting $35 in trade for my old S9+ (I know this because I checked a month ago), so I went through the motions, and the new phone should be in Monday’s mail.

With that business out of the way, I picked up the wife, and at 3:30, we made our way to Starbucks in Fountain Hills and then turned on the BeeLine highway towards Payson. Deja vu was in effect as we were on the exact same route, only in reverse, that we just drove on Monday. It was already 6:00 p.m. when I flipped the blinker to turn north on Highway 277, in the direction of Holbrook, when I blurted out that we should pull a quick U-turn and have dinner at this place we’ve often passed but never had stopped. With low expectations, we did just that.

Caroline Wise at Al & Diane's Red Onion Lounge in Heber-Overgaard, Arizona

Al & Diane’s Red Onion Lounge in Heber-Overgaard was our dinner stop. This iconic and “Famous” roadside joint has been here forever and was exactly what we expected: a slightly different version of our favorite old haunt in Phoenix that was once known as Wagon Yard. With the evening’s vittles out of the way, we could continue on into the late day.

Highway 277 between Holbrook and Heber, Arizona

I thought we might make it to Grants, New Mexico, tonight, but with 60 miles left, we opted for our original destination of Gallup, New Mexico. We found a cheap room at EconoLodge for the low-low price of only $59; this was likely the best deal we were going to get. We have a 3-hour drive ahead of us in the morning, meaning we’ll be getting up with the rising sun so we can be on the road by 6:00 a.m.

Freedom and Independence on the 4th of July

Independence Day out in a space that allows an extraordinary amount of freedom and independence to be had; that’s where we are. Nothing consumed, not a lot desired, and very little purchased is how we travel into this day, which in some way mirrors our lives at home. We comfortably find ourselves in a vast landscape, trying to interpret a horizon without easy markers or signs to guide us into the unfamiliar, and that’s okay.

Is Independence Day still a celebration of our freedom from tyranny or simply the faint recollection of historic events that paved the way for some idealistic notions? Certain declarations and amendments have come to stand in for whatever the thoughts might have been surrounding a collective sense of being free Americans, but are two or three fragments the extent of what independence means? Why do so many find our constitutional declarations ensconced in law to be tenuous at best and in need of constant anxious lament as though at any moment they will be ripped from the clutch of patriots who apparently are the only truly aware Americans? I’m afraid that this nervous energy and a constant refrain that everything America stands for is on the brink of being torn away is a toxic salve bringing infection to a wound exploited by hyperbolic political shysters, modern-day media snake oil salesmen, and pundit quacks who are not expert in anything other than terror.

People stuck in paradigms of the past appear most susceptible to fear and deception that exploits their unenlightened minds. Maybe they are broken and undereducated due to an indoctrination that made them slaves to a jingoistic and overzealous dogma from which they are now unable to break free. How, then, are those people free or independent? They are not; they are like this broken-down, rusting jalopy that is not going anywhere. Put a TV in front of this car, and you are effectively seeing many of my fellow citizens: frozen by gravity, useless, a relic from a past that failed to maintain any kind of momentum that might have allowed them to glide into the present and hopefully the future too.

I should offer up some details regarding this day that actually pertains to our trip from Utah that will take us home to Phoenix, Arizona, today. We woke in Blanding, a small town with a population of just under 3,600 people, and headed south. The sandstone bluff in the second photo is at the edge of the town of Bluff that we visited at the end of May; the car at the Cow Canyon Trading Post is also in Bluff. This wall fragment was at one time either part of a dwelling or maybe a storage area. I spotted it from the road, and it begged us to pay a visit. From here, we traveled toward Montezuma Creek and Aneth on our way to a special crossroads in the middle of nowhere.

Nowhere is where I live my best life, where nothing I own is strewn before or around me. All I can do is look upon the nothingness that embodies everything and has an intrinsic value exceeding the things that might be considered mine. When this wash is running it feeds into the San Juan River, which is the green spot out in the distance of this photo. For countless years, the rains have come and gone and, on occasion, left enough moisture that the streambed carved itself into the landscape. On this particular day, its path is evidenced by the green S curve starting in the foreground. The hand of nature out here has been employing the engineering forces of natural processes to build the most elegant of places that I will ever witness while standing at this particular place on State Route 162 located in San Juan County, Utah. So, now I’ve been everywhere and seen everything where nothing existed until I embued it with all the appreciation and value of someone able to find things meaningful while exploring the freedom of independence to do such things.

We had to stop here in Montezuma Creek, Utah, to admire the artwork of the students at Whitehorse High School who, when not exploring their creativity, are locked in classrooms being indoctrinated into believing that what they are being forced to learn will deliver them from the wretched poverty in which many of their parents exist. The cruel dichotomy here is that these kids are learning just enough to have them either conform or fail and likely relinquish themselves to systems that will exploit their incarceration. Without hope of further real education, they will languish in meager subsistence jobs not far from where they are growing up and never know the freedom of independence that the United States claims is a key part of our cultural DNA. Native Americans, like many minorities that can’t afford participation, are tossed by the wayside of something less than nothing, a place without hope or the ability to interpret what riches they might have if they were seriously knowledgable about truths. These truths are simply the idea that freedom is a state of mind afforded by removing oneself from the struggle of just surviving abject poverty, and this is where real education comes to bear.

I need to make clear here that my focus is not lamenting the situation of the poor, minorities, or other disadvantaged groups; the system is stacked against them, and they do what they can with the little they have. My real complaint is about those who have the means to be free and independent but are simultaneously deeply entrenched in their intellectual stagnation and being the loudest about their fear of what they claim is being stolen from them, which is absolutely nothing.

We cannot contain the ocean, the sun, or the wind, and we are fairly adept at controlling the river, bringing light to darkness, and giving ourselves the ability to move quickly over the surface of the planet, but we are absolute masters of bringing totalitarian enslavement upon the minds of the masses who are terrified to lose their shelter, sustenance, and social standing in a broken community of lonely souls drunk on the desire for out-of-reach riches that never offered real happiness to anyone in the first place. Love is the water that is supposed to flow down the river of life and through our communities, but we’ve created a drought by selling false dreams to people who will likely never know better and must endure the suffering of unfulfilled lives while we who have it all always get more. For us, the river is a deluge that welcomes us to grow more, secret away these precious resources so they may always be there for us; all the while, we pity those who supposedly won’t help themselves as we are oblivious to how systems are stacked against the ill-educated.

Aneth, Utah, is indicative of the disappearance of hope and opportunity, a place where the freedom to survive on ancestral lands is bulldozed by the allure of a fake image of life delivered by TV, the internet, and video games. In the past 20 years, Aneth has seen its population shrink by 139 people, and while that may not sound significant, consider that this means the town went from 598 people down to 459 for a loss of 1 in 4 Anethians. This is obviously a tragic situation for the local Navajo population since a town that is disappearing from the map has to support an elementary school that pays its senior teachers $80,000 a year and is apparently only working to catapult their children to places elsewhere.

With the intrusion of sham dreams of wild success that can be easily had in America’s big cities, the traditions of a community are shattered as fresh transplants crash into the cold reality of life in the uncaring environment of the metropolis. The broken young souls either fall to the wayside or return to the old town, contributing to its decay and their own dissatisfaction. This is not independence or freedom; it is planned disenfranchisement, obsolescence, cultural obliteration, and oppression. Aneth represents just 1 of 110 Navajo communities that are likely in similar predicaments. Now consider that by land area, the Navajo Nation is as large as the Netherlands and Belgium combined, but the GDPs of these two countries add up to almost $1.5 trillion compared to just $12.8 billion of economic activity on the largest Indian reservation in the United States; this is not an accident.

Sure, this is a poor comparison when one thinks that in Belgium and the Netherlands, the combined population is 29 million people strong in contrast to the Navajo Nation’s anemic 173,000 people, but in a country like the United States that has intentionally worked to disadvantage Native Americans, one might think we as a country could do better to honor those who have paid so much by suffering near total annihilation. Stop a moment and think of this: in Texas, 3.3 million people receive state aid, and nearly 2.8 million in Florida do too. Are we really a country of people who love independence and freedom that helps foster healthy communities and citizens, or are we a bunch of gun-loving nutjob individualists afraid of a tyrannical boogeyman created by marginalized megalomaniacs who become wealthy on this dissatisfaction, thus monopolizing another part of people’s vulnerability?

So, let’s all just look out on the horizon and refuse to see what we don’t want to see anyway. We are, after all, free to do exactly just what we want to do, even at the expense of sustaining a thriving nation. At one time, we were a union, not only that, we were trying to form a perfect union in order to establish our nation of the United States. Today, we are millions of individuals oblivious to our real role as neighbors willing to defend each other, help one another, and stand together. But the blue skies of optimism have been clouded over not exclusively by those in power but by all of us, the “We the people” part of all of us, because we are no longer we. This is a country of us and them. So on this 4th of July, which should be a joyous moment recognizing the accomplishments of a great country, we should bow down in respect of a dream that is dissipating like so many thin clouds on a hot day.

But that is not the America Caroline and I choose to live in. Our America is one of dreams and ideals where we’ve carved out just enough and seized the opportunity to find our way into a dream, though I’m not sure it resembles the idea of the bigger American Dream. You see, we are selfish, greedy, and maybe a bit isolated. We are selfish because we no longer buy into needing things like large homes, expensive cars, a vast wardrobe, or the other trappings of conspicuous consumption. We are greedy as we save money, predominately cook at home, set our thermostat higher, and save from not participating with subscriptions to frivolous services. We are isolated due to being avid readers, not owning a television, not playing golf, or rooting for sports franchises of any sort.

We’ve chosen our own path that recognizes our limitations to earn more and more. We’ve seen that those with more of all and nearly everything are rarely living profound and joyful lives. We understand that a chance encounter with someone less fortunate will likely offer us a more meaningful experience than listening to someone feeding us details about some celebrity, indignation regarding a politician of any persuasion, or their latest acquisition they believe enhances their position in the hierarchy of accomplishments.

We stand mostly alone with our ideals carrying dreams from a bygone era that if you ventured out into your country and into yourself, you might find experiential riches that would define you as a real explorer, a real American, a person living a life well lived. We still adhere to these ideas towering overhead as aspirations that are meant to be embraced. Caroline just recently became an American citizen and did so with tears in her eyes as she knows firsthand what is possible, but sadly, it is only because we had to separate ourselves from the masses defined by a lot of nothing, masses who don’t know the real American Dream and are angry that they are living in dystopian nightmares of their own creation.

Just stop a second and look at this: we are living the adage extolled in the Declaration of Independence regarding Life, Liberty, and the pursuit of Happiness. We are free under our current system to find just those things; nobody is trying to take anything from us, but we must be willing to give to ourselves and adapt to a changing world. Our founding fathers never envisioned a day when people would travel at 60 mph over land in air-conditioned vehicles, take photos of exquisite detail, and call ahead to a restaurant in the middle of a desert to verify their hours, but that’s what we do, and all that’s required is to continue changing with the times.

These bags of flour will not make themselves into a cake, bagels, or the Navajo frybread it is likely destined to become. Someone else will have to transform it; the flour will be altered by the addition of other ingredients, be they savory or sweet; the point is that these constituent parts will see their chemistry changed but still won’t be done until they find their way into a transitional form of having been cooked. And though the flour and that which was added will become food, it will then need to be consumed to act as nourishment. Maybe a grandmother made a cake, a dad made his kids pancakes on a Sunday morning, or a husband and wife are making frybread next to the road and loading it with roast mutton for passersby, such as my wife and me. This act of change and preparation is what will sustain those who benefit from the efforts of a community. This parable is what a nation, a people, a country of united souls does for one another, but we’ve lost sight of the basic ingredients right in front of us. Instead, we are pissed off when we must deal with the investment of effort to transform things on our own because the 20-layer cake isn’t being spoon-fed to us when we want it.

Do not be a petulant bulwark against your own motion forward, happiness, or accomplishment. Nothing is really standing in your way besides yourself. Your intransigence to see your way around minor obstacles blinds you and steals your vision to find what is just beyond the rock called self. Caroline and I are not perfect examples of growing beyond limitations, but in these moments of exploring our own freedom and independence, we get to take sight of the astonishing vistas of our vast country and consider how fortunate we are to have broken free of the shackles of unattainable lives of perfection sold by those snake oil salesmen, quacks, charlatans, con artists, and cheaters who have sold far too many Americans nothing but anguish by blaming others for what they are missing.

Nothing has been stolen from you aside from what you gave away. If you look into the window of the TV screen and witness the magic of incredible perfection, maybe you are already selling yourself on self-delusion. The horizon is not painted in gold, but it is embued with riches of wonder if you know how to see what you were never told was valuable. America is the dream; our freedom to venture into ourselves has never been denied, but the fortitude of the pioneer requires us to surmount obstacles, and in a modern age, that means we must clamber over our own ignorance and fear of failure.

Initially, the road may not be paved, and we might struggle to determine the direction we need to take if there is no one to guide us; such is the task of the relentless fighter intent on carving a way forward. When the destination is not obvious, we are presented with our own wherewithal to make decisions and choices that might harm us as well as deliver us.

It’s bumpy out here, and what if you can’t easily find what sustains you? You keep going forward and shut up, as being a stoic is at the heart of being American. If you believe you deserve to be called a citizen of the United States, a real American, you push forward against the odds that will feel stacked against you, but in this age, it is no longer the brute force of strength that will propel you, it is what you’ve fed your mind, your education, and the opportunity you must work hard at to empower you. The easy way is for losers, they stay behind and wait for others to pave a trail instead of making the arduous journey themselves. We do not choose to stay at home watching the game, firing up the barbecue, or tossing back a beer today; we venture out to explore unknown spaces and risk learning about something that may not be initially obvious as to what value it gave us. Still, we seize the moment and embrace our radical freedom to be everywhere, anywhere, and nowhere.

Ah, the proverbial cake is served in the form of a roast mutton sandwich on frybread. We have pulled into Chinle, Arizona, on the Navajo Nation, and it is here at an anonymous dirt lot where it might not be apparent to those driving by that a loose grouping of trucks and a few trailers is actually a small flea market. Hoping I’d get lucky to find what my deepest desires want right now, I creep over the bumpy lot, slowly driving past tables and vehicles until my eye caught a truck and trailer looking like they were offering hot food. While Caroline grabs the last dish of roast mutton deluxe with corn on the cob, potato, and green chili (which I’ll help myself to), I opt for the roast mutton sans frybread (it’s a diabetes thing) and am now being delivered to a state of sheepy nirvana.

What wasn’t at the market but was found in the parking lot of a gas station was a husband and wife selling pickle dillies, which we’ve also seen offered as picadillies. Salty, sour, and sweet isn’t everyone’s cup of yummy, but my wife isn’t everyone, so the idea of having a snowcone of tiger’s blood, banana, and black cherry syrup with layers of pickles is the perfect summer treat for her. As for me, yeah, that diabetes thing again. I’ll hold out for the possibility I might find more roast mutton further down the road. If you don’t try what you don’t know, you’ll never know what you didn’t know, and you’ll only have yourself to blame for a life not lived well.

Freedom and independence are choices in a land where they are guaranteed, but you’ll have to muster some resolve to risk your sense of certainty and put away your biases. Are your mind and imagination open like the sky on a summer day, or are you locked in the dungeon of hate and resentment that others are living the life you believe you deserve yet are unable to budge from your obstinacy to grab? I’d like to reiterate that Caroline and I are not special; we are simply willing to go out, look, savor, and participate in things that are not a normal part of our routine. We give ourselves permission to step out of our comfort zone, and yet we keep finding great comfort in discovering something new and exciting where others might find nothing.

I need to stop a moment and consider things I don’t know, such as the thoughts that might arise here at the Hubbell Trading Post National Historic Site. This building is here because 158 years ago, the people of the Navajo Nation were force-marched over 300 miles from their native lands to a small reservation in eastern New Mexico. This act of human cruelty left deep scars on the Diné (Navajo), and why wouldn’t it? Forces representing the United States, along with disease and famine, killed more than a quarter of their population. So I can’t tell you how I might see the world and my opportunity in it if I came from an oppressed people. Regarding this trading post, it’s here because after the Long Walk, as the forced march is known, and the people returned to this land, trading posts were opened across the Navajo Nation as the U.S. government tried to support the Navajo in getting back on their feet.

This idea of trauma hindering the ability to move lives forward is obviously a touchy one that various ethnic and religious groups have had to contend with throughout time, but I can’t help but take inspiration from Jewish people, especially those who survived World War II. Roughly 33% of the global population of Jews died between 1933 and 1945 at the hands of the Nazis while their history of persecution for centuries prior is well known, and so their resilience to bounce back following the 2nd world war is nothing short of admirable. Tenacity to get past adversity seems to pay dividends, and while not all people are alike, there’s a lesson to be learned from not only people of the Jewish faith but maybe the Mormons, too. But I’m not here to dissect the minutiae of persecuted and oppressed people or to bring into context the barbarity of various societies over the course of history; I’m more interested in the valuable lessons learned. The most important of those lessons seems to me to be that bad, horrible, atrocious acts of cruelty are perpetrated on people from all walks of life, but the ability to stop the victimization thinking and lingering in despair is key to moving forward.

This positive way ahead applies to all of us as it seems that some relative majority of humans have suffered at the hands of neglect, abuse, lack of opportunity, bullying, condemnation, or some other bias that has negatively impacted lives. You see these Navajo woven baskets hanging upside-down here at the Hubbell Trading Post? This is considered bad in Navajo lore as baskets are used to hold important things such as food, and hanging them up in this way means they cannot serve their purpose and act in the capacity for which they were created It doesn’t always have to be this way and maybe someday they’ll be removed from the ceiling and restored to a position where, even if they never act as working baskets again, they’ll be on display and respected as what they were intended to be. People have to take themselves away from a position of remaining empty and restore their purpose. We are containers of important things such as knowledge, experience, and love, we should work together to develop our carrying capacity. We cannot relegate our function and utility to forces that only desire the sea of humanity to fill the role that brings fortune to a select few and not ourselves.

Think of this display as the face of humanity: we are pictures, baskets, pots, vessels, clothes, books, and rugs, things that all have great value, treasures if you will. When all these things are brought together, they are impressive in their magnificence, and we can easily recognize their collectibility. All of these things have something in common: someone with specific skills labored over each object to imbue them with form, particular characteristics, knowledge, artistic qualities, and every combination of those attributes that lends beauty and purpose to them. People are exactly the same, but we’ve lost sight of that as we’ve reduced individuals to being merely a thread, a particle of sand, a piece of wood pulp without real value, as though they were only a tiny constituent part of something bigger. This is plain wrong as we are all potentially fully formed artworks, fonts of wisdom, inspirations for others, and beacons of light that will lend skills and aesthetic grace to the next generation who can benefit from sharing if we don’t forget that we all have something worth offering each other.

The land is the surface we all dwell upon; the tree shares its durability and strength to give us shelter, comfort, tools, food, and heat. In the case of this hogan, the earth is also the roof that protects us from the elements. With basic sheltering needs cared for, we can turn our attention to our other needs, such as growing food, but in modern society, that is often available as a convenience at a nearby grocery store where the variety exceeds almost anything we might produce for ourselves. If those necessities are the minimum that is met, we must turn our attention to decorating ourselves and our environment. In earlier societies that meant painting and adorning ourselves, embellishing the walls of our dwelling, filling the air with our song and the music of our instruments. In modernity, while many are still occupied with the brand of clothes, makeup, size of a television, type of car, or cult objects turned into fetishized commodities such as phones, bikes, or handbags, the real element of total importance is how we enrich the internal world of our mind.

The exterior of your home, the entryway into that space, and the things that accentuate the appearance of places all carry little weight when it comes to what you bring to how you will see the world when standing before the multitude of situations you are ill-equipped to understand if you are willing to venture into the liminal.

Two-hundred forty-six years ago, in 1776, humanity required a document to express the need for freedom and declare independence as the greed and brutality of a ruling class that was busy owning other people in various forms of servitude or had yoked their subjects in rules and taxes that proved that souls and bodies had been conquered reached a breaking point. It would be 90 years after that and only after a civil war that those who might otherwise claim enlightenment were vanquished, and their ideas of slavery would start to be arrested. One hundred years after that and only one year after I was born, the Civil Rights Act was signed into law. With this knowledge of the glacial pace of change, I suppose reluctantly that the recognition of the importance of the freedom of mind space and the necessity of knowledge acquisition won’t be a larger issue of societal imperative before 2065, when I’m long dead. It’s tragic how slow we are to come full circle.

The human is but a vessel. It is this idea of us carrying the dreams, aspirations, inventions, covenants, tools, traditions, and love that we should honor this maxim instead of trying to squash it, which I feel we are doing at this time. While we cannot know with any certainty who our distant relatives were 10,000 years ago, I believe that although life might have been fraught with quite difficult struggles, they understood freedom and independence in ways that transcend anything we believe we know. Circumstances would have dictated radically different approaches to survival, but reliance on family, community, and the wisdom of those with life skills would have been paramount. Today, we proverbially throw the weak to the wolves; we cast them to the street and into existences that bring such despair that the only way to survive is through substance abuse, violence, and ultimately an early death. Our compassion for one another is less than we might place on rare and valuable objects such as this old Navajo basket.

Please do not correct me by giving examples of those who help one another, the individuals who succeeded against the odds, or the various programs designed to alleviate these issues. We know full well that ignorance locks the unfortunate in systems and paradigms they are unable to escape from. It is only with concerted efforts to pry them free of their own darkness that they have a chance at finding greater value from within.

Take these three clay vessels of Navajo creation and design; today, they are likely worth more than $20,000, but sitting on this shelf, their value is merely theoretical. Someone must fall in love with them and recognize what they represent, and then if they are so fortunate, they might find a way to acquire them for their own home, but if they are truly magnanimous, they will donate them to a museum for all of humanity to enjoy into the future. Imagine if society as a whole was so generous.

The three Diné women offered a generous and friendly embrace in taking the time to share in our enthusiasm for the native culture out here in Ganado, Arizona, and the history of the Navajo Nation as an outpost and container for the traditions of their ancestors. Caroline is once again sworn in as a Junior Ranger, but this time, it was after learning more about the lives of Ganado Mucho, who was the 12th signer of the U.S.-Navajo Treaty of 1868 that ended the captivity of  Navajo following the Long Walk. We learned of John Lorenzo Hubbell (known as the “Old Mexican”), who in 1878 started this trading post whose success in part relied on the friendship of Ganado Mucho. Hubbell, who had learned to speak Navajo, had the distinct advantage of being able to better share and communicate with the survivors of atrocities that risked erasing the people of these lands, and with that ability and knowledge, he helped establish trade in Navajo crafts that allowed the post to remain an important location into the 1960s when the National Park system took over operations. Had the Fred Harvey company taken over Hubbell, it might very well have been turned into a tourist attraction similar to the “Friendly Indian” places along historic Route 66, selling imported “hand-made” jewelry and plastic tomahawks. Today, we had an opportunity to peer into history and understand a little more about the changes our ancestors wrought upon the indigenous people of North America due to the empathy of a governmental body responsible for preserving not only nature but knowledge too. If you wonder if I’m contradicting myself, nothing is ever black and white, as people, governments, and cultures should all be evolving if they are to remain healthy. Just because mistakes are made every day, this doesn’t imply they can’t be rectified as our knowledge grows.

So there isn’t “nothing” out here in the middle of nowhere. There is everything that embodies the potential of people to find what they don’t yet know, to discover that freedom and independence emerge from wide open spaces that encourage people to learn what they’ve not found. First, people mustn’t be afraid of the apparent emptiness that their ignorance casts as something evil, hostile, or in need of being conquered by force; it is simply the unknown that, with time, is knowable. It is the wandering in open spaces that speaks of the greatest freedom and begs visitors to fill that apparent void with the truth of reality that exists everywhere.

The ideas regarding freedom and independence might seem like a rock impervious to the folly of fools, but it is precisely the fools that erode the structures that hold together the mountains of society and culture. Humanity is at a juncture on the map of our future to harness the potential of people to do good, or we can turn and do bad and erase all the beauty we could preserve if we chose to understand how fragile the most important things are. Happy 4th of July! On this day, we celebrate our opportunity to experience freedom and this incredible independence while being stewards of such important ideas.

Another Day in the Wasatch Mountains

The air up here in the Wasatch Mountain Range is crisp and clear, making it a perfect place for hot-air ballooners looking for an exciting way to see the surrounding landscape. Sure, a part of us would like to gain that perspective of floating over the countryside, but the uncertainty of how our fear of heights will handle this situation allows our curiosity to back away from feeling the need to do all things just because we could. Our terrestrial viewpoint isn’t a bad one either, after all, we are offered countless opportunities to witness an infinity of sights and experiences such as this one upon walking out the door of our motel.

This morning, we are heading up through the town of Midway on Pine Canyon Drive, a bit of a nail-biter with very few opportunities to pull over on the narrow road full of hairpin turns. During winter, this road is closed, and it’s obvious why. That’s Midway in the distance on the valley floor, and to the far left, you can spy a corner of Heber City. At some point, just before our trailhead, we merged onto Guardsman Pass Road, and shortly after, we reached our parking area.

Good thing we showed up early as there were already 20 cars parked in the large dirt lot, but by the time we’d come off our hike, the area was full, and people were parking a quarter mile away in an overflow area on a sketchy steep side driveway, while others who hadn’t heeded the signs that there was NO parking along the road were getting ticketed or maybe on their way to being towed. By the time we were finished with our walk, we only wanted some food and to rest our tired feet. Enough of that; time to get on down the Bloods Lake Trail before continuing on to Lackawaxen Lake.

A small detail to note: we parked in the shadow of Jupiter Peak, which stands just below 10,000 feet, and our hike will take us over towards Clayton Peak, towering at 10,689 feet (3,258 meters). The trail itself is supposed to be just over 5 miles with an elevation gain of 1,118 feet (310 meters), but considering that we took an alternative trail back to the car, we had more gain than that and, of course, the descent. And while this was our major activity of the day, somehow, we amassed over 8 miles of walking (13km).

As you’ve seen by now, the forested trail is beautiful and in keeping with the theme established a couple of days ago at Cedar Breaks National Monument: we are here during the season of wildflowers. These particular yellow flowers appear to be part of the packera genus of plants and are commonly known as golden ragwort.

Switchbacks at this elevation are never really fun for those of us who live in lower climes, but the excitement of being in such an intriguingly beautiful location and our insatiable desire to experience more move us forward, even if we have to take frequent breaks to catch our breath.

For our efforts and treasure offered to the gods of capitalism, we are afforded payoffs like this. At this point, we are little more than a mile up the trail, and this is also the place most hikers park themselves if they are able to endure the mosquitoes. We’ll only be here momentarily as Lackawaxen Lake is still another mile and a half away, and we have about 32 miles (563km) of driving ahead of us today before reaching the town of Blanding, Utah, where we’ll have an overnight.

If we didn’t live an 11-hour drive away from here, we’d certainly make the effort to visit more often. As for flying up to Salt Lake City and grabbing a rental car, that would add no less than $600 to the cost of the weekend. When using our own car, we spent about $140 in gas to be here, and that’s for the roundtrip.

That’s Clayton Peak up there, and it’s just below it down in the treeline where we’ll find our next lake and even more mosquitoes.

Some small rocks to walk over before we reached some serious boulders that required negotiating, along with a bit of snow further along the trail just before arriving at the lake. Regarding the jagged boulder field, a couple of times, I found my way through on my butt, as standing high above the gaps was triggering my anxiety.

But we made it to Lackawaxen Lake, where we lingered for two, maybe three minutes before running away with a cloud of angry, hungry mosquitoes on our tail.

My stoic, resilient, hard-ass wife is not one to let some pesky mosquitoes interfere with her joy, so she just keeps on going while ignoring the bloodsuckers drinking from her bare legs so they can make baby mosquitoes. I, on the other hand, shoo them away, swat them, nearly panic when they approach my ears, ask Caroline if she sees any of them on my shirt, and then whine that we don’t have a gallon of Deet/bug spray with us, hell that we don’t even have the tiniest bottle with us. We are at the mercy of mosquitoes, but we have the option to leave while they must live and die here.

While my eyes luxuriated in the spectacular beauty of the meadow, and I considered what I might write next, I was still thinking of mosquitoes and my snarky comment that we have the option to leave while they must remain. This is where they’ll live and likely die and while some mosquitoes can fly up to 10 miles, I’m guessing that most live near a good water source and a place they can easily find food. Food, that’s what we are to the females, this much I knew; what I didn’t know is that the males feed on nectar but only for a brief ten days as they flash into existence and die rapidly, after only ten days! In comparison, female mosquitoes enjoy a much longer life that, on average, is estimated at up to 45 days, while other sources say it is closer to only two weeks. I also learned about diapause, which is the condition when insects effectively enter a kind of hibernation state due to conditions unfavorable for their species, such as mosquitos here in these mountains when winter sets in.

As I was looking inward to find something sweet to write about these two sacrificial blood banks that the mosquitoes zeroed in on every time we took the slightest pause, I had to chuckle to myself as I somewhat maliciously considered that many people in society are frozen in diapause waiting for optimal conditions for them to emerge from stasis and start living lives in the great happiness of optimism instead of their futile non-existence under the rock of despair. Long live the smile of knowing you are alive and have options.

Today was our day to gaze upon this scene for the first time in our lives, and while we may never have the good fortune to ever look at it again, we’ve been here, even if only for a moment. A thousand years from now, this view might not have changed much at all, but the memory of us or specifics of our existence will be long gone as we’ll have been dead for more than 950 years by then. It’s all temporary and virtually impossible to see but a tiny fraction of the space rock we live on for such a very brief time. In some way, we are all like male mosquitos existing for but ten days where everything we will ever know and see must be had in those meager 240 hours. Every second counts, my fellow humans, or are you really content with your mosquito-like existence? On second thought, I should consider that those I’d like to reach might never read something about someone else’s adventures and thoughts as they go about a life of profound isolation. All the same, I’ll just leave this right here.

Wasatch penstemon flowers.

More Indian paintbrush.

Bring them all together, and voila! a beautiful little patch of wildflowers.

The horror of horrors was our drive into Park City, which is a bastion of self-important asshole drivers high on their wealth and oblivious to civility. I will never again make the mistake of passing through this corner of America, but the view from above this wealthy enclave (towards the right and out of view) is a spectacular one.

We are on Utah State Road 35, driving southeast, preferring to take the scenic route instead of the faster highway. Tomorrow being the 4th of July, this flag-lined stretch of road feels like one of the most honest celebrations of the big day.

Freshly shorn sheep free-ranging next to the road is not something one sees every day, so we had to turn around, pull over, and hang out with all the sheepies and their lambs.

I believe this to be the last photo I shot on this stretch of road before transitioning to the 191 in Duchesne.

How long should it take to drive to where we are going today? Just as long as it takes, considering that we have to stop for a dozen sights along the way, such as these elegant horses.

It’s the details between the other details that paint the bigger picture of what was what when we were out somewhere, seeing the things that became memories that must fade with the passage of days.

I must have taken dozens of photos waiting to capture the right one of this gas flare and this fire unicorn certainly qualifies as perfect in my book of stumbling into the coincidental.

We are somewhere between Duchesne and Helper, Utah, at this time, and signs of people living out this way are few. What is here is a lot of oil and gas pumping. We were also offered a lesson in stopping in the middle of the street for a photo when thinking there was nobody behind us; I was about to step out of our car for a photo when I heard the roar of a giant diesel engine and then caught sight of a large oil tanker speeding straight at us. I threw the car back into gear and hit the gas as hard as I could so the guy fast approaching didn’t have to slam on his brakes to avoid rolling over us and snuffing our lives out of existence.

Beauty is found in the fluid and infinite state of things; we sense it in the clouds, layers of stone, patterns of where trees grow, the song of birds, music, or the sound of flowing water. We are always passing through sensuality and the passions of nature but are not always tuned to understanding the equation to which we are intrinsically linked. Every time we venture into these unknown ramparts and bucolic scenes, we are enmeshing ourselves in the greater tapestry of life as humans have come to know it. Expressing this relationship in words, images, music, or poetry is our primal language that transcends the work/enslavement structures distilled from others who desire to use human capital for their own means. To be out, exploring, observant, and in delight is to be free. The amazement of opportunity is where freedom is most easily found.

Somewhere near Castle Gate seems appropriately named to me.

While we can’t always avoid major highways, we try not to miss the few views worth capturing, even if it means rolling down the window, having Caroline take the wheel, and me shooting the photo while driving at 80 mph. Yes, that is exactly how this photo was captured.

Arches National Park and Moab, Utah, are out there over the horizon.

No time for crowded tourist destinations this late in the day as we still have 75 miles ahead of us.

Okay, just a quick stop at Wilson Arch.

We’d better stop for this, too, as maybe this will be the best photo we are afforded for sunset.

But then we saw the sun hiding just behind a sandstone bluff, sending out god rays and some golden glow, letting me frame the foreground as a silhouette. This, though, has to be it as it’s getting late, and we still have to check in to our motel further down the road.

I can’t just drive by clouds that are this spectacular, but I swear, this is it.

Okay, so I lied.

Tricked you here; you might have thought this was one more lie regarding stopping on our way to Blanding; well, we were pulling into our motel parking lot at 9:30 and just enchanted that down on the ground, it appeared to be already nighttime, but this one section of the sky was still capturing daylight from the long-set sun that we thought would be impossible to capture. But it turned out pretty good, or so I thought. So this is the last of the 37 images that accompany our day that started high in the mountains and followed us down to canyon lands in the southeast of Utah.

Exploring the Wasatch Mountains

That’s Utah’s famous Mount Timpanogos, the second-highest mountain in the Wasatch Range that’s part of the Uinta-Wasatch-Cache National Forest. (Yesterday, we were seeing its other side.) This is the backdrop of Heber City, where we are staying since we are relegated to the poor person’s enclave of mere millionaires instead of the far greater (billionaires’) village of neighboring Park City (said with incredible reverence).

Just north at the fork in the road, you’ll start heading up towards Jordanelle Reservoir and the town of Kamas beyond that. We are aiming to get on the Mirror Lake Scenic Highway, a.k.a. Utah State Highway 150, that heads north towards Wyoming, although we are keeping things in Utah today.

That’s the Provo River slicing through the forest and feeding Jordanelle Reservoir that we just passed.

Our path of discovering whatever lies ahead has brought us to the Upper Provo River Falls.

Human banana for scale.

Wouldn’t you just know that I’d be at home writing this when I learned that pine cone buds are fully edible? We don’t miss the opportunity to sniff at Ponderosa pine trees now that we know that they smell of vanilla or caramel, but now I’ll need to know what those pine cones taste like.

Pulling into the area at Washington Lake Campground, where our trailhead is located, might seem to be discouraging as the parking lots were packed, but once out on the trail, other visitors were so well distributed across the vast trail system that we never felt crowded. Though I would like to admonish owners of poorly trained barking dogs as they are the bane of a great experience on trails, and so are the dog poop bags left trailside; why even bag it up?

Things quieted down as we got closer to Crystal Lake.

Mosquitoes! Guess who forgot the bug spray? Well, it wasn’t me, as I easily and rightfully assumed that it was in Mrs. Wise’s backpack of everything.

Why pay for Alltrails if, after choosing your trails, you fail to download the app, load your maps for offline use (there’s no signal on the trail), and neglect even printing them out so you have something to remind you of where precisely the trails of interest are after identifying them while still at home in the days prior to your trip? You do this due to a lack of familiarity with the incredible utility of Alltrails, likely in some part due to cynicism that says, “Everything you pay for on the internet that’s not a physical product is probably some kind of ripoff.” Well, now I know.

A tiger swallowtail butterfly among the dandelions is just one of those embellishments that assure us that we are here on this trail at exactly the right time of year and that no other weekend could have been as perfect.

Lucky for us, at a fork in the trail, a young couple heading to Long Lake had a small map with them. They were certain that their trail was to the left and that our way to Cliff Lake could only be on the right. Along the way, we ran into Boy Scouts who were a bit surprised about the trail they were on as it was unfamiliar to them, but we were able to assure them that this was certainly the way to Crystal Lake and Washington beyond that, so they were relieved and happy heading downhill because the trail that had taken them out to Wall Lake (well beyond our destination) had been a lot more strenuous.

As for hiking up here at 10,100 feet of elevation above sea level (3,078 meters), I felt some very minor lightheadedness and even the occasional ping of a headache, but stopping for a sec and taking a big swallow of water helped me adjust to the altitude and we just kept huffing and puffing along the trail. About this selfie, Caroline asked that I make a better effort to take photos of the two of us as I’ve not posted many selfies in a while. I scrolled back on the blog and saw that it’s true: it’s been since May 26 when I last shared an image of us.

This is the end of the trail as far as our hike is concerned, and from here, we’ll head back to our car and one of those incredible lunches of bologna-and-boiled-egg sandwiches wrapped in lettuce. For those curious, we probably exchanged expressions of love no less than 40 times already today, held hands over a dozen times, stopped for a kiss, and snuggled on the trail more times than what is probably reasonable to normal people. While it’s been said countless times previously here on my blog, we do not, will not, and cannot take any of this for granted. We are well aware of how incredibly fortunate we are to not only explore perfection in delightful places while deeply in love with one another, we have the health, means, and desire to do these things.

We just had to pull over here on Utah Highway 150 at the Bald Mountain Scenic Overlook because, well, just look.

By the way, this is the namesake of this pullout and overlook.

That’s Moosehorn Lake out there, while the tallest peak towards the right is Mount Agassiz, standing at 12,433 feet tall (3,790 meters). Looking again at the Alltrails website, it’s surreal how many trails are spread out across the Uinta-Wasatch-Cache National Forest. Somewhere along the way, we caught someone who told us that they were still having snow flurries up here during the past couple of weeks, so the time of year we can plan for a return will likely be limited to July 1st through early September, but I do hope that maybe in 2023 we’ll make the effort to possibly take some longer hikes and maybe even some camping in the backcountry. Just as I finish typing that, I’m thinking, hey, what about those mosquitoes, Mr. Ambitious?

We were driving north without a plan. Maybe we’d make it to Wyoming, but we needn’t do that; we are not out here collecting trophies. A dirt road directing us to Christmas Meadow and the Stillwater Trail, which is part of another trail leading to Ostler Lake, is out here, so we go.

We are excited to make this the second hike of the day; it’s beautiful.

Christmas Meadow looking out at Ostler Peak at 12,718 feet!

Frost Aster flowers and yes, they are edible while the leaves can be used to make tea.

We couldn’t ask for better conditions for a hike. The trail is a long one, but we’ll just go as far as we’re comfortable before turning around.

Not 10 minutes later, we hear thunder in the distance, and some dark clouds are coming over the nearby mountains. Then, just 10 minutes after that, we run into this obstacle, hardly insurmountable, but a light sprinkling of rain is starting to fall so we turn around.

After a short nap for me, while the rain passed, we decided to throw caution to the wind and head out on the Ruth Lake Trail for a quick 2-mile hike.

Hayden Peak with the threatening weather still looming on the horizon.

Our timing couldn’t have been any better as blue skies started reappearing. Why we hadn’t considered the chance of wet weather during any of our previous trips this year is beyond my imagination. Not once have we brought umbrellas or our rain jackets on any of our excursions out of Phoenix this year. We obviously have room in the car to simply keep them in the back, but I guess my eternal optimism that the sun will always be shining on us lets me be careless regarding threats of poor weather.

Rocks, mountains, grass, trees, birds, clouds, love, friends, and happiness were all on hand to create a scene that likely holds a lot more intrinsic value to the two people that were on hand at this moment so the photo would forever be embued with qualities that transcend what is actually seen by others.

Nature legitimizes existence; it is the fabric from which we have emerged and from which modern consumer society has tried to alienate us. When we gaze into nature on a beautiful day our sense of self somehow grows larger as though we were blooming like a flower. How lucky are those of us able to plant ourselves in such places and bask in the sun.

Like this nameless still pond reflecting the world around it, what will you reflect of the world around you? Maybe if you live in the awareness of turmoil and you are surrounding yourself with the chaos of uncertainty and fear, your reflection of that universe will let others know that you are not at peace and that a tempest is raging within.

Again, the parking area was full to capacity, and yet, as is easily seen in these images, we appeared to be out here alone. Maybe instead of seeing the potential for a crowded trail due to the parking situation, I would be better served by getting it in my head that my perceptions heavily influence how my reality is going to play out.

Not just this photo but the one above too is of Ruth Lake that we’ve obviously reached.

All of this was well worth the price of admission, which turned out to be what it always is: you must get yourself out here, make the investment in paying for gas, food, and lodging, and then you’ll be here too, and the better for it.

Indian Paint Brush colors the landscape from here to Alaska, or at least this has been our experience.

We are circumnavigating the lake with increasingly sore feet, and while we grow tired, we are not ready to give up on these moments of bliss.

We were just shy of covering 10 miles (almost 16 km) today up here at an elevation of over 10,000 feet (3,000 meters), and at the end of it, after so much strenuous hiking, I found that my chest hurt. I can only attribute this to the increased effort required to oxygenate my blood at this elevation and my lungs working overtime. Considering the alternative is too scary a thought, maybe it’s a good thing I’m visiting a cardiologist at the end of July. The pain persisted through the night but never gave me real concern as the discomfort seemed localized in my sternum where the ribs attach to it which would make sense that it was nothing more than the extra exertion I needed today.

Sunset would be experienced by others; we were too worn down to care a lick about finding a spectacular location to capture our setting sun; all we wanted was to return to our room and pretend it wasn’t so damned light out at 7:30 at night. In its stead, I present you with the newest addition to my collection of handmade socks. This pair arrives once again from the loving hands of Caroline using yarn from Seaside Yarn & Fiber we purchased on a previous trip up on the Oregon coast.

Once back in the car, we decided to celebrate our grand day out with dinner in a restaurant. Online resources pointed us to a fancy-looking restaurant with good reviews, but their parking lot was deserted – a bad sign on a Friday. Luckily, on our way in, we passed a couple on the way out and, uncharacteristically, asked them for their opinion. We soon found out they thought the place was mediocre and overpriced and instead told us to try the Mirror Lake Diner in Kamas. The diner was just down the street and busy – a good sign! Our dinner was delicious and the perfect end to the day.

Beautiful Summer Day in Utah

I need a generic photo for blog posts describing the first nights we are out on the road; that photo would be of a golden brown rotisserie chicken dripping fat as the fire sweats that old bird. This would best illustrate how we sleep on these restless roadside stops. One never knows the quality of the bed, the temperature of the room, or the wail of the window air-conditioning unit. Does this imply that we slept poorly? Obviously, because we struggled to find something even close to the thing known as sleep. So it goes, we know this dance in the been there, done that sense.

Our no-frills breakfast (thanks to our in-room microwave and the ice chest of stuff we are dragging with us) saved me from the potato/toast orgy my petulant inner 4-year-old expects when we are out in the land of the greasy spoon. The menu in cabin 6 featured warmed-up pre-cooked burgers and a shared avocado, which helped keep things in the keto realm for me, and right now, that will have to do.

A few miles away, the state line separating Arizona and Utah was crossed with no fanfare; we just drove in and minutes later stopped in Kanab for some weak coffee, which in a pinch is better than no coffee. Experience tells me that a photo of our coffee stop makes for boring imagery so I skipped that, and anyway, the scenery surrounding Kanab is far more interesting. No, this isn’t Bryce National Park, but it is indicative of what is seen out that way. As we were just visiting Bryce not too long ago, we’ll just keep going north.

Hey, is that something beautiful over there? Well then, we’ll just have to stop to look at the forest through the trees.

This brook with bleached volcanic stones was the main attraction, and while I should have made an effort to photograph the nearby craggy lava field, we have places to be and know from past experience that we can be our own worst enemies when it comes to arriving somewhere at a reasonable hour.

Ninety minutes north of Fredonia, Arizona,  we arrived at our first destination, Cedar Breaks National Monument. Not sure if these people are done with their 4th of July holiday already or if they were just passing through, but they are pointed at the exit. If you’ve read one of our previous posts where we visit a national park or monument you probably have guessed by now that we’ll be making our first stop at the visitors center for Caroline to pick up her Junior Ranger booklet.

With booklet in hand, along with a new t-shirt celebrating the season of wildflowers, we are on our way up the Spectra Point Trail. It’s obviously a beautiful day out here, and nobody else is parked at the trailhead yet, so things promise to be quiet. Our elevation is 10,500 feet above sea level (3,200 meters), and I’m feeling a bit lightheaded but nothing too uncomfortable.

What surprises await us just over the crest?

It doesn’t take long before I grow uncomfortable with the nearness to the edge of a massive dropoff. We only made it a little more than a quarter-mile up the trail before a particular corner whispered at me that I wouldn’t enjoy coming back this way as, at that point, I’d be having that open abyss painted spectacularly large throughout my peripheral vision. Time to turn around.

But it’s not time to leave; we are here to stop and smell the flowers, all of them.

Just up the road is our next trail, and it starts at the Chessmen Ridge Overlook; we’ll check that out first.

Blam, Chessman Ridge.

Straight ahead is the Pond Loop Trail. Oh, lucky day.

It was ten years ago that I first identified the common donkel (donkey-camel hybrid genetically engineered to walk on two legs) while on the island of Oahu; see proof right here. Since then, this specimen has proven to be incredibly valuable over and over again, though as she ages, her humps have been shrinking (front and back). The utility of my donkel cannot be underestimated as she continues the life support functions required to support me. All she requires on my part is a near-constant stream of hugs and for that, I’m offered water, snacks, sunscreen, and extended vision with the use of binoculars she seems to always have at the ready.

I thought pink and blue Spanish bluebells would have been on separate plants, but here’s nature proving me wrong, or is this just a trick of comingling plants and my inability to differentiate their cohabitation?

It’s spaces such as this that will have to suffice as being the parade route we’ll be missing this year, while the flowers will have to fill the gap of not seeing a fireworks show along the way.

Heading up into Utah this long 4th of July weekend during early summer, I don’t know what we were expecting beyond the planned hiking trails, but running into these columbines are proving to be a nice surprise. I wonder if Alltrails has a search function that allows us to find the most spectacular displays of wildflowers as an attribute of trails across America?

If you are thinking I’m getting a bit redundant with similar shots, well, that’s just the way it is, as these reminders are here to bring us back to July 1st, 2022, when Caroline and I found ourselves walking along a canyon edge to a pond during a magnificent wildflower bloom. These were the days, huh, wife?

The columbines are everywhere, and while I probably took photos of dozens, I present just one more, as this post is about more than beautiful flowers.

It’s also about forested paths under deep blue skies and fluffy little clouds.

Just out of sight was graffiti carved into a fallen tree that said, “Monet was here.”

What doesn’t mix with beauty are the idiots who feel the need to bring gadgets that play their music out loud so everyone within a couple of hundred feet has to listen to their insipid soundtrack that erases the wind, birds, frogs, insects, and any semblance of their consideration or intelligence. Then, there was the lunkhead who brought out his drone; even though everywhere you go in the parks today, people are told that they are in a “N0 Drone Zone.” People pay as much attention to that as those told that dogs are not allowed on the trail. Aside from those annoyances (quickly pushed out of mind for my well-being), we were again alone and enjoying the serenity of the place, undisturbed by the selfish abominations that went about their merry ways.

After a couple of miles, though our Fitbits said it was closer to three miles, we were aiming for the parking lot, where opened our ice chest and made some of these terrific lettuce-wrapped bologna-and-boiled-egg sandwiches.

Ms. Happy Nerd-Face has yet again been granted the privilege of representing another national monument after geeking out on answering all the questions there are to answer in order to be anointed a Junior Ranger. I’d imagine that by now, if she were to attempt wearing them all, she’d be stooped over like Quasimodo in the Hunchback of Notre Dame.

It was time to leave the park as we still have a long drive up Utah Highway 89 which parallels Interstate 15 but without the freeway stress and far enough away to feel like we are appropriately on vacation, not in heavy traffic and franchise ugliness.

A million thanks to everyone who opts for freeways, thus affording us nature freaks these moments when the entirety of nature within our purview is ours alone. I should point out that my grumbling about the numbskulls that intrude into our solemnity in some paragraphs/photos above is my own fault as we typically know better than being out in America on major holidays due to the dragging out the worst examples of rabble our country has to offer.

Just think about this: here we are under a blue sky where a dirt road slicing through grasslands running to a distant mountain offers us the opportunity to be among approximately twenty-three octovigintillion particles coursing through reality and where idiocy is kept at a distance, there is nothing else to do but enjoy the perfection of it all in peace and happiness.

Here is the result of a lost 20 minutes where I searched for what mountain this is. I know it’s near Provo, Utah, but I can’t find it using an image search from Microsoft or Google. Streetview hasn’t come to my rescue, and now, frantic, I have to give up and return to writing. I’d wager a dollar that after Caroline gets hold of this acquiescing to failure there’ll be a note from her telling future us just where we were and what mountain peak we were looking at. [It is the “backside” of Mount Timpanogos – Caroline]

This is Bridal Veil Falls, which I have zero ambiguity about. Believe it or not, there were people crazy enough to cut over the thinnest trail on the scree slope visible on the left of this image in order to reach the foot of the falls. My knees buckled as I watched others carefully maneuver the razor’s edge.

We are starting to run low on daylight as we start passing the Deer Creek Reservoir with this image having to stand in for the end of the day. We are already in the Wasatch Mountains, which is the main destination of this adventure, and are now only about 15 minutes away from Heber City, where we’ll be spending the next couple of nights at the Swiss Alps Inn.