My Father Dies

John Wise Sr in Ontario, California

This is my father, John Wise Sr., on September 23, 2000, after having his left leg amputated; the right had been taken off somewhere before 1995. Before they’d take his leg, they needed to bring his blood sugar down, which, from what I understood, was estimated to be somewhere in the 600’s. For a minute, he was a calm and focused man, relieved even that the pain of a rotting leg might disappear. But of course, the nerve damage brought on by raging diabetes was going to play its role in tormenting him for unrelenting belligerence my father knew how to own. For the next couple of years, he’d be in and out of hospitals. Dad is 56 years old in this photo. He was born on March 16, 1944, in Buffalo, New York.

Caroline Wise and John Wise Sr in Ontario, California

Fast forward to June 2002 and my father is a shadow of the man I knew him as. He’s now 58, which will also be the end of his birthdays. By this time, he’d slipped into a diabetic coma and nearly died, but as he didn’t have a DNR (Do Not Resuscitate) order, he was kept alive. When he came to he’d lost a good chunk of his memory and lost the ability to understand what came after the number 5, both value or conceptually. When he learned of our visit, he felt he needed to clean up and had his wife Diana give him a haircut, and he shaved so he could look nice for us. In his last year of life, he’d finally mellowed and stopped with the anger and fatalism; he was actually kind of sweet. No matter his mood or pain, he was mostly happy to see us, though he always complained that it was never enough.

Today, February 1, 2003, the Space Shuttle Columbia disintegrated during re-entry after 16 days in space, with all those aboard losing their lives. My father, age 58, also gave up his life today.

Little India and Disneyland – Day 2

Disneyland in Anaheim, California

Well, I hope the Patels like this place because Caroline and I will easily be entertained, with our inner six-year-old selves giddy with excitement to be here again.

Sonal Patel with Hemu, Kushbu, and their Ba at Disneyland in Anaheim, California

We can stand in any line as many times as anyone else would like to, as there’s nothing in Disneyland that we don’t like, including those sold-out days when it’s jam-packed in here. How many times have we been on the Raiders of the Lost Ark? Who knows, who cares? We’re ready to do it again, and so is Kushbu.

Caroline Wise and John Wise at Disneyland in Anaheim, California

Of course, we had to have a selfie of us with the kind of smiles only Disneyland can create.

Hemu Patel at Disneyland in Anaheim, California

The awkwardness of Hemu, who’s a teenager, has us wondering if she’s having fun, would rather be out with friends, or is intensely too aware that she’s not getting homework done. To be fair, she’s a bit quieter and reserved than her more rambunctious sister Kushbu, who seems more assertive.

Sonal Patel with Hemu, Kushbu, and their Ba at Disneyland in Anaheim, California

We need to get this family to practice their on-camera skills at showing some emotion, smiling, and keeping their eyes open when there are cameras around. Everyone had fun today and enthusiastically went along everywhere Caroline and I wanted to take them. Time for the long drive home before it gets too late.

Little India and Disneyland – Day 1

Sonal Patel and her family in Blythe, California

It was just last summer that we’d first met Sonal and shortly after that, I volunteered to update the way she rented videos from three thick handwritten notebooks. I thought I would knock it out quickly after I found a shared database listing of Hindi movies and then just cross-check what she had in inventory and be done with it in a few days. Turned out I couldn’t find that list, and after having volunteered my services, I sat down in her store and started entering every title by hand. It took a couple of weeks sitting with her in Indo Euro, and we had the opportunity to chat quite a bit.

When I was finished, she asked me what she owed me; I told her that I’d volunteered and she owed me nothing. She persisted, and I told her if I allowed her to pay me, it would be at my billable rate; she said okay. I told her the number, and she grimaced and I reminded her that this is why I volunteered my help. I took this opportunity to let her know that, seeing she wanted to do something in return, I’d love it if she would invite Caroline and me into her home and have her mom cook for us. Not the kind of stuff we’ve had in Indian restaurants but the kind of food she’s been eating in the shop since I started coming by. She agreed.

Sonal Patel and her family in Hollywood, California

So, towards the end of summer, Caroline and I arrived at her house and were greeted by Hemu (left), Sonal (center back), Kushbu (center front), and Ba (that means grandmother, and she’s on the right). We had an amazing dinner that included bitter melon, drumstick (not the chicken type, as this was a vegetarian meal; the scientific name is “moringa”), doodhi (bottle gourd), and a couple of other things. Our meal with the Patels changed our relationship with Indian food as we’d never eaten Gujarati-style cooking; we were hooked. By this time, our friendship was getting well-cemented.

Before moving to Arizona from New Jersey and buying Indo Euro Foods, Sonal had been to Los Angeles one other time while visiting; back then, Kushbu was only two years old. Since moving permanently to the desert, she’d not been back, and Caroline and I suggested that she and the family drive out with us. They agreed. So we loaded up in her van and drove out to visit some family in Blythe, California, first (top photo) and then on to Hollywood (photo above).

Shopping in Little India Artesia, California

Our next stop was for market research; we went over to Little India in Artesia. Funny that it would be Caroline and I introducing a Hindu to an Indian shopping district.

Shopping in Little India Artesia, California

We strolled from shop to shop and learned a lot on the way while being entertained by peaking into shops that we’d never stop at on our own.

Caroline Wise and John Wise shopping in Little India Artesia, California

After a ton of browsing and shopping for stuff that would end up in Sonal’s store in Phoenix, we ate at Rasbhog on Pioneer Boulevard and had our first taste of Gujarati Thali and Indo-Chinese cooking. I love our lives. By the way, look closely at the mirror in the photo above; I took a selfie of Caroline and me.

Map of our U.S. Travels

Map of John Wise and Caroline Wise's travels across America

When looked at as the entire country, it doesn’t appear that Caroline and I have seen much of America. You should consider that the area we have traveled over most, California, Nevada, Utah, Arizona, and New Mexico, is roughly the combined size of most of continental Europe. Often, our travels are now being planned after consulting this map to see which roads we’ve already traveled so we can add “trophy” highlights to it upon our return.

Big Bend, Carlsbad, Bosque, Petrified Forest – Day 5

Bosque Del Apache in New Mexico

It was 16 degrees (-9 Celsius) when we left Carrizozo two hours ago at 4:00 and it’s not much warmer when we reach the frozen lake here in the Bosque del Apache Wildlife Refuge. There are about two dozen of us out here braving the cold, and some came prepared for photographic battle with professional gear at the ready.

Bosque Del Apache in New Mexico

The geese that were flying in joined others camped out on the ice not a hundred feet from us. And so we wait and wait. Occasionally, it gets really interesting out there in Bird Village, but first, some observations. Most of the birds are sleeping with a sentry standing guard over maybe 4 to 6 other birds. The awake birds are chattering across the colony, apparently relaying messages of some sort. Then, from within the cacophony of the squawking, a single bird word appears to have been said, and the entire group goes silent. The sleeping birds do not stir, and after a moment, another call goes out, and the guards start talking again. This happens a few times over the next hour while we humans wait, oblivious to their language. And then a special call was made where not only do the guards fall silent, but all the sleeping birds stand up with a whoosh and they too are silent.

Bosque Del Apache in New Mexico

With a call nearly lost in the crush of sound, it appears that all 30,000 birds lift off simultaneously, ready to scatter to the wind. Our breath was taken away by the dramatic sight of a sea of geese flying directly at us.

Bosque Del Apache in New Mexico

And then the tear ducts were opened as those rapidly accelerating geese flew overhead, their flapping wings thrashing loudly through the air as they quickly gained altitude. I don’t believe anyone had a dry eye who witnessed this. To say it was astonishing is an understatement because not only was it a sight for the eyes, but it was an experience for the ears, the heart, the mind, nature, and the wonder generated by this coordinated effort of the geese to act as one giant cohesive entity.

Bosque Del Apache in New Mexico

It’s still seriously cold out here as we go to explore other corners of the refuge, but it has warmed up to 23 degrees or -5 Celsius.

Bosque Del Apache in New Mexico

These ice crystals were growing out of the wood railing on a boardwalk. I can’t say that I’ve ever seen anything like this before.

Bosque Del Apache in New Mexico

There are about nine sandhill cranes mixed in with these geese. In mid-November, there is a festival of the crane held here at the Bosque if you were so inclined to visit yourself.

El Camino Family Restaurant in Socorro, New Mexico

Time for some hot food to warm our cold noses, and nothing like some green chili to help accomplish that. We hope this joint called El Camino Family Restaurant in Socorro, New Mexico, never closes as it is one of our favorite restaurants in America, right up there with Oki Dog and In N Out.

Last April, we passed through here on our way back to Arizona from the Trinity Site (click here to visit that post), and here we are once again, driving west through Datil, New Mexico, except this time, we get to see the Very Large Array (VLA) in the snow.

While again, we have driven through Pie Town, New Mexico, and not gotten to enjoy some of their famous pie; we do have this opportunity to say hi to these beautiful horses. Someday, we’ll pass through town when one of the two pie shops is open.

Getting this picture taken took a while and more than a few failed attempts due to the glare of the sun on the snow combined with the fact that we had to look in the general direction of the sun so we could have the “Welcome to Zuni-Land” sign behind us.

We are always amazed by the people who take the time to get out of a vehicle or just pull over so they can shoot at state signs. What the hell is wrong with people who are probably the very same people who complain about taxation and then go shooting up signs that probably cost about $1000 to replace?

Couldn’t get pie, but it looks like we could get a shot and beer if we were so inclined here at Witch Well Tavern outside of St. John, Arizona. I did have the opportunity to talk with the owner, who told me his dad used to bootleg liquor out of this place back when he was just a pipsqueak, so Witch Well has been in business a good long time.

Wow, the opportunity to see the Petrified Forest in the snow was another lucky day among the many.

It’s easy to get lost looking at the vast scenery of the Painted Desert. Then there are all these logs turned to stone, and from a distance, they just look like fallen trees. Look closely and you’ll find those places where the wood not only turned to stone, but the minerals they absorbed turned them into art.

No wonder this stuff was coveted, and for years, before laws tried to prohibit the trade of giant slabs of petrified wood, people would steal the stuff and make it into everything from dining room tables to wall clocks. While some who read this might like that idea, the problem is there’s a very limited supply that was ever created by chance and a very long passage of time. If it all went to the highest bidders, there’d be none left for us to ogle here in the Petrified Forest.

The difference a few inches of snow makes to this high desert landscape is extraordinary, and we still can’t believe we are here on one of the rare days when it’s covered in white fluffy stuff.

At first blush, it hardly appears that these trees look a day over a couple of thousand years old, but in fact, they are 225 million years old. Back when these trees were still standing, it wouldn’t have been impossible for a dinosaur to walk right by or maybe even crawl up one to grab lunch. There have been nine species of trees identified here in the park and all of them are now extinct.

Remember that this area is known as the Painted Desert. Look around you; this is the Chinle Formation. Minerals by the bucket load were deposited here by rivers that brought silt, sand, and mud of various makeups that are responsible for the color of the earth. It is those minerals that began to transform the logs that were trapped in the mud.

How did early people see these trees that had turned to stone? How could a primitive mind begin to decipher what kind of magic was at work here?

Over 200 million years later, and while my mind knows that this is stone, my fingers are still expecting a splinter should I slide my hand over this rock.

This trip into the southwest has been a great Christmas gift to ourselves, that is, of course, if we celebrated that holiday, though we are grateful for the free days off that don’t count against that all valuable vacation time. Time to go home and do laundry and think about what we might do for New Year’s Eve, if anything.

Big Bend, Carlsbad, Bosque, Petrified Forest – Day 4

As you would have seen from yesterday’s post, Texas is not only a big flat, wide-open expanse of nothingness, though, from this photo, one might not be blamed for thinking just that. I could try explaining that we are up early due to our 100-mile drive to Carlsbad Caverns this morning or that we want to beat the crowds, traffic, bad weather, or whatever else, but there’s none of that. We just tend to be early risers while on vacation for these particular moments when the sun starts crawling back up over the horizon. Today’s sunrise is brought to you from near Manzanita Springs up Frijole Ranch Road in the Guadalupe Mountains National Park.

Wait a minute, I thought we were going to New Mexico? Well, we’ve taken our photo in front of a New Mexico state sign, but it was already evening when we crossed into Texas the other day, so we are making up for that.

Taking the time to walk in the natural entrance of Carlsbad Caverns National Park. Why we didn’t do this on our previous two visits is beyond me; what a great way to enter the cave. Oh wait a minute I know why because we were in such a hurry on those trips like we are so often on any of these journeys. For the record, our first visit was in 1997 with Ruby and Axel Rieke and then in 1999 with Robert Bell and Mark Shimer. This is the third visit and the first in the 21st century. I’d be willing to bet a dollar it won’t be our last.

Nothing much has changed since we first visited five years ago; then again, this cave is mostly dormant now, and other than theft, nothing should be changing.

One thing that’s different, I can point out, is our ability to take somewhat better-quality photos. On our first visit in 1997, there were no consumer digital cameras beyond some early low-res thousand-dollar cameras that were horrible in low light. By 1999, we finally moved solidly into the world of 1 megapixel (1MP) images, and while a Nikon 2MP camera came out too, trying to figure out where you wanted to spend nearly a thousand dollars was seriously difficult, especially in an area of technology that felt like it was heating up and that we were seeing rapid advancements. A year later, we bought the camera that I’m using today, the Sony Cyber-shot DSC-S75 with 3MP, which was only $599.

While I’m looking back at our improving ability to take photos, I’ll add one more thing. I would love to be using a DSLR (Digital Single Lens Reflex) camera, but consider that the 1.3MP Kodak that came out in 1991 cost $30,000, and an upgraded DCS-460 with 6MP of quality was released in 1995 for almost $36,000, and you should be able to see that the trajectory there is still a pricey one. By 1999, the Nikon D1 with 2.7MP capability brought the price way down to only $4,995, but this was still far too expensive for what amounts to being a disposable camera. Unlike film cameras of 100 years ago, which still can take interesting photos, I don’t think the low-quality images we are getting right now from digital cameras will survive the test of time.

All the same, seeing these photos after our trip and the incredible detail available from an all-in-one point-and-shoot digital camera are astonishing to me.

The larger point of this exercise of documenting our trips out in America and taking notes when we can find the time is to create a document that demonstrates what is possible by two people who are throwing off the responsibilities of conformity. Our condo is for sale, we’ve chosen not to have children, we don’t much care about holidays, birthdays, or anniversaries, and are quite okay with a hedonistic lifestyle of relative selfishness that eschews typical consumption patterns.

And all of this is for our effort to witness as much beauty and novelty as our time and budget will allow.

One of the greatest tools to access vast amounts of beauty is the National Park Pass. For only $50 a year or $10 for a senior pass if you are old enough (and that’s for the rest of your life!), you gain access to over 350 parks and monuments. This year alone, Caroline and I visited 20 National Parks and Monuments including Walnut Canyon, Redwoods, Yosemite, Sequoias, Death Valley, Lava Beds, Lassen, Crater Lake, Rocky Mountains, Devils Tower, Mt Rushmore, Colorado National Monument, Natural Bridges, Grand Canyon, Canyonlands, Mt St Helens, Olympic, Big Bend, Carlsbad Caverns, and Petrified Forest which we will visit tomorrow.

The aptly named soda straws. Looking at the formations in Carlsbad, Caverns never get old.

Because livestock also deserves to be recognized.

Sometimes, driving across New Mexico, it seems like the majority of the state’s economy is derived from oil and gas, maybe aliens, too.

By the time we reach Cloudcroft, there’s enough snow on the ground that we know we don’t want to go deeper in the mountains, and up in Ruidoso, where we’d planned on staying, it promised to be much snowier. So when we reached Highway 54 going north, we stayed at the lower altitude and hoped to find something up that way.

We’ll be calling it an early night as we have to wake shortly after four in the morning to make the 100-mile drive to Bosque del Apache south of Socorro, New Mexico. On our previous visit back in March, a docent at the wildlife refuge told us that the best time of year to visit is around Thanksgiving into January, when the largest number of migratory birds are hanging out. She also insisted we show up before sunrise to witness a “fly-out” that is allegedly one of the most spectacular sights one can see of wildlife in this part of North America. We grabbed a room at the Rainbow Inn in Carrizozo and were headed to sleep before 9:00.