Utah to Colorado to New Mexico – Day 1

Caroline Wise and John Wise driving to Utah

Oh, you are getting off work early today? I’ve got an idea: let’s drive our new car out somewhere to help break it in. Hmmm, where should we go? How about we go get a steak? Sounds like a plan. Do you think we can make it? Depends on how many stops we make between here and there.

Northern Arizona at sunset

Up north of Flagstaff, it never seems to fail that we see some of the most amazing sunsets and cloud formations.

So, I mentioned a new car. After months and endless loaner cars, the Beetle bit the dust. It will be the last German car we’ll ever own in the United States. We paid $7,000 for a new engine, and before we reached the next corner, the check engine light came on. This is how the next nearly two months played out. The kick in the ass is that Volkswagen had our car at 95,000 miles for a final inspection before the car hit 100,000 miles, and the warranty ran out. VW recommends that the timing belt be changed at 100,000 miles, but we were only at 95,000, and we didn’t specifically request them to change the belt at what we thought was our 100,000-mile check-up. At 107,000 miles, the timing belt slipped and destroyed the engine. Too bad as it was on our onus to ensure we were in compliance with their policies. After half a dozen more times at the dealer, we drove the Beetle over to a Hyundai dealer just to consider a trade-in. The car died again. So we traded it right then and there with a horrible loss that was fortunately rolled into our purchase; that’s right, no more leasing for us and no more Volkswagen or the dealer we leased from.

Mexican Hat Lodge in Mexican Hat, Utah

Steaks are on the grill, cooking up over the burning mesquite. The cowboy cooking our dinner has been our cook before, and that swinging grill in front of him is just a small part of the magic that keeps dragging us up to Mexican Hat, Utah. Being in the Valley of the Gods just north of Monument Valley is another part of the allure. Caroline has a beer, and her veggie patty is getting the same treatment as my hunk of cow flesh as we chill out under the Milky Way on a seldom-traveled road, enjoying the beginning of our mini-vacation. BTW we are at the Mexican Hat Lodge again.

Tucson, Arizona

Guadalupe, Arturo, Tyson the Dog, Arturito, Caroline and John Wise in Tucson, Arizona

Meet the Silvas: On the left is Arturo’s wife Guadalupe, then Arturo, holding Tyson, the little dog, is their son Arturito, while their daughters Sophia and Melissa are too short and stand below Caroline’s chin and so cannot be seen in this photo – just kidding. We don’t get down often enough to visit the Silva Family in Tucson.

Sunset near Picacho Peak in Arizona

And, of course, there was this sunset near Picacho Peak on the way home.

Jay in Los Angeles

Caroline Wise, Jay Patel, John Wise

It’s Sunday, and our friend Jay Patel is off work. He’d asked the day before if we had anything planned and if we’d like to hang out; I suggested he be up early and join us for something crazy. We are on that crazy trip, and you are about to go along with us.

Jay Patel

If we are in Cabazon, we are either here because Pee-wee Herman is filming a new installment to his Big Adventure, or we are heading into Los Angeles on our own big adventure. The latter is the case today.

Jay Patel

First, we head into Chinatown and hit the bargain stalls, looking for anything that might be appealing. Jay starts with a vendor we’d never have considered stopping at; the guy is running sugar cane stalks through a crusher that makes fresh sugar cane juice. He’s not had a glass of this since leaving India, where it’s a popular drink.

The next stop is Little Tokyo for the chance to try imagawayaki, a favorite of ours and a new flavor for Jay. On this perfect day, we stop in various shops, check the sights, and strive for a different experience than hanging out in Phoenix.

Jay Patel

A quick tour of downtown L.A. and soon we are moving down the freeway towards Orange County.

Caroline Wise, Jay Patel, John Wise

We were looking for Artesia, also known as Little India. Besides some shopping and hanging out with the other Gujus and various other Hindus, we were aiming for the Jay Bharat restaurant for a Gujarati Thali. A Thali is an assortment of dishes and translates to a “full plate meal.” This type of traditional meal is not found in any Arizona restaurants, though we have experienced some of the flavors at Sonal’s, Anju’s, and Jay’s place.

Caroline Wise, Jay Patel, John Wise

After about seven hours in the Los Angeles area and getting a cultural taste of China, Japan, India, and some Spanish influence, it was time to head right back to Arizona. Who could argue that 11 hours of driving is not worth half a day of big adventure doing things that take us out of our ordinary?

Glacier to Yellowstone – Day 5

Sunrise near Green River, Wyoming

Who among us has never seen a sunrise such as this? To be out West in the mountainous terrain of a place away from cities where a slight rise in elevation can offer us views that stretch for nearly 50 miles is a luxury I suppose few will ever experience firsthand. That rareness should stay with us and not be taken for granted; after all, it was only Caroline and me who were in this location at this particular moment where the sun and clouds would only appear to us in this exact configuration and never again in millions of years could this scene ever be duplicated.

Flaming Gorge National Recreation Area in Utah

The sun crawls higher, and we drive further south through the Flaming Gorge of Northern Utah. We started the day at 5:30, which means it was only 4:30 in Arizona, where we are headed, but with 860 miles (1,375 km) ahead of us, we’ll need all the psychological help we can find to believe we are getting home at a reasonable hour.

Flaming Gorge National Recreation Area in Utah

It’s Monday, but it may as well be some anonymous day a couple of hundred thousand years ago where no sign of humanity can be seen across the landscape. No power lines, no contrails, and no skyline in the distance. For a moment, one should find such a place, sit down, and meditate on the idea of being the first human ever to be looking out with the recognition that you might be the first sentient being ever to gaze upon the soil and into the sky with an entire future ahead of yourself and how you might want to shape your path.

Dandelion in Utah

A wish, okay, so it’s a dandelion, and maybe I’m “too old” to play such things, but so what? I wish to see a dinosaur.

Dinosaur National Monument in Utah

Wish granted here at the Dinosaur National Monument in Utah and Colorado. Millions of years ago, a river ran through the area, and with it, dead dinosaurs would drift downstream to be buried beneath the accumulating sediments.

Dinosaur National Monument in Utah

This upturned river bed is the main attraction of the park. Look at the picture above this one, and you can see that the building was placed directly over the riverbed that now sits at a nearly 90-degree angle.

Dinosaur National Monument in Utah

There’s a whole lot of wow factor for kids of all ages who come to gawk at dinosaur bones.

Caroline Wise and John Wise on the Colorado State Line

Because the road isn’t long enough already, we opt for a slight detour through Western Colorado to see what things look like out this way.

Loma, Colorado

A beautiful old and abandoned school built in the early 1900s. Nothing really significant about it; it was just nice to look at.

Near Moab, Utah on the Colorado River

Scenes hinting at getting close to home. These kids are playing on a sandbank in the Colorado River on the outskirts of Moab, Utah.

Hole In The Rock on U.S. Highway 191 in Utah

Hole N” The Rock still isn’t being visited, though it was just this past September that I was saying that someday we need to stop here. Maybe next year.

Newspaper Rock State Historical Monument in Utah

Seems like yesterday that we were here and not three years ago, but it was another September trip into the area back in the year 2000 that we first laid our eyes on this incredible panel of petroglyphs.

Cow Canyon Trading Post in Bluff, Utah

Fond memories of a great dinner will forever stay with us from that night years ago when we stayed in Bluff and walked over for a brilliant Native American meal.

Mexican Hat, Utah

Caroline blurts out, “….the layers” every time we pass this.

Mexican Hat, Utah

This is why the tiny community of Mexican Hat, Utah, is called Mexican Hat.

Mexican Hat, Utah

This sight had me thinking “Texas Chainsaw Massacre” thoughts for a moment, but I reassured myself and Caroline that the black cloth draped over his face offered up some protection against the bugs that would otherwise splatter on his face. By the way, we are in Mexican Hat proper, and if the Mexican Hat Lodge swinging BBQ was working at this time of day, I wouldn’t care what time we’d get home; I’d be eating a ribeye right about now.

Monument Valley in Utah on the Arizona border

We are just about to pass back into Arizona to finish our drive home, and this final glance at Monument Valley will be the last photo of the day and of this five-day race to the Canadian border and back. Though we spent a considerable amount of time in the car, we gained thousands of indelible impressions that work to cement our memories of how beautiful the wildlands of this country are. We arrived home an hour before midnight after driving 3,147 miles (5,078 km), dragged what we could upstairs, and instead of falling immediately to sleep, we checked out some of the photos from the trip. This has been a great way to celebrate Independence Day in America.

Glacier to Yellowstone – Day 4

Caroline Wise and John Wise at Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

It’s barely daybreak at 5:50 in the morning, but we know the value of every minute today. We must look forward to tomorrow when we need to get home. This plays a large role in how long we get to spend in Yellowstone, as we need to position ourselves tonight in a place where we can drive home tomorrow. At the moment, we are about 1,000 miles from home, and while consideration for those parameters is under consideration, we will do our best to remain in the moment and yet aware of the time.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

As I said, we were entering the park shortly after daybreak. Sunrise was right here at the Canary Springs on the terrace near where we dropped in last night for sunset. The boardwalk trail we had walked a few years earlier has been subsumed and is now impassable as it is disappearing below the limestone crust.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

In some areas, the color of the travertine has faded, and it seems the water is flowing in new areas, while in others, it has stopped. I think it was during our last visit we started learning about the hydrology of the ground below us and how the combination of a heat source close to the surface combined with an ample water supply to cook up a soup of minerals whose flow keeps shifting while the minerals that make up the travertine accumulate and also change the shape and openings of the natural pipes below. Depending on snowfall, rain, and earth movement caused by earthquakes it very well may be that the features of Yellowstone not only change from year to year but from season to season.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

We’d like to stop everywhere that looks familiar to get off the road and explore further than we have on previous visits, but with about 10 hours allocated for this part of the adventure instead of 3 to 5 days, we have to limit ourselves.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

So, you think this looks the same as it did so many years ago? Do the trees look taller, and can you tell how the forest is recovering from the fire of 1988? Come to think of it, when we were first here it was the beginning of the season in springtime when we visited with Ruby and Axel and then at the close of the season during the fall with my mother-in-law Jutta. Here, at the height of summer, I’d venture to say that the greens are greener and the blues bluer.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

To say we are excited to see all of this again should be obvious; what is not so obvious is our surprise at how amazing it all is. There are times we wonder if we’ll enjoy a place on subsequent visits as much as we did on our first or second stop, but seemingly without fail, we are as delighted as we were the first time. Matter of fact our familiarity starts to feel as though we are visiting an old friend who is happy to greet us.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

Someday I hope to have all of these photos sorted algorithmically by visual data so I might learn better what exactly it is in these images that is common and if there’s a theme that I cannot see on glancing over them. Then I have to wonder about a man by himself looking into this cauldron of boiling water and steam: what is he seeing and experiencing? I get to squeeze Caroline’s hand and constantly reiterate how amazed I am, and she does the same back at me, but he doesn’t have anyone to share the experience being had at the moment. I can’t say one way or the other is more or less valid, but I do know that with the two of us sharing these days, we have each other to help fill the memory gaps that time and distance create.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

I should probably check my older photos, but I do think that there was a lot more steam obscuring the view of Excelsior Crater here at Midway Geyser Basin on our previous visits.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

Looking at Grand Prismatic, it became certain that the view is a lot clearer today. Funny, but it seems like the hillside behind this hot spring is taking forever to start recovering from the fire. I hope we have yet another opportunity in the future to come back to Yellowstone and once again measure where things are in this national treasure.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

From where heads are pointed, it would seem that only the view of the Grand Prismatic behind me and the Excelsior Crater in front of me were worth taking in, meaning that this view in between feels neglected. Nothing should be passed by in Yellowstone, and one should always remember that Old Faithful is not the only thing to see on a visit to America’s first national park.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

The look of rust has more to do with the temperature and chemical composition of these bacterial mats that fan out and away from hot springs and geyser pools.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

We look into the earth in awe.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

For mere moments, we can glimpse a moment in history that has stood mostly still. Evolutionary forces may always be at work, but from our perspective, these things have always been this way, and a kind of timelessness is found.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

The day is not just screaming by. Maybe it’s the familiarity with the place and that we are not trying to commit every detail into our memories but are refreshing things that are back in there somewhere.

Old Faithful Inn at Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

The wonderful Old Faithful Inn looks as beautiful and majestic as always. With the bus out front, it’s almost difficult to witness the passage of time, and it feels like it could just as easily be 1955. I hope to never forget that it was the center-gabled roof above the patio that was the room we stayed in on our first visit to this historic hotel.

Old Faithful Inn at Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

To stay here just one more time, that would be nice.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

We’d been a little nervous about visiting Yellowstone at the height of tourism season out of fear of the large crowds we’d read and heard about, but being here on the Upper Geyser Basin a couple of days after the Fourth of July, things seem pretty calm and uncrowded to us.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

Hello, old friends; we are back.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

There was no way we could be in the area and not walk from the Old Faithful Inn across the Upper Geyser Basin up to Morning Glory Pool. Along the way, we got to see Riverside Geyser spouting off.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

We couldn’t have asked for more dramatic skies.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

The astute among you might recognize that we are on our way back to the Old Faithful area.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

The Fishing Cone at West Thumb Geyser Basin is well underwater today; this is our first time seeing it so.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

Fractal chaos at its best.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

Don’t think I’ll ever be able to take a more iconic photo in Yellowstone, as this one has snow-capped mountains, a lake, blue skies, mom, dad, kid, a hot spring, and a boardwalk.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

Already heading back to the car as our time in Yellowstone must come to an end on this short visit.

Oxbow Bend in the Grand Teton National Park in Wyoming

But that doesn’t mean we don’t have a few minutes to spare on our way through the Grand Teton National Park.

Caroline Wise at the Oxbow Bend in the Grand Teton National Park in Wyoming

We are at the Oxbow Bend of the Snake River with Caroline, commemorating the moment with a walk into the waters. It’s already 6:00 p.m. as we leave the Tetons.

Midway Mall in Big Piney, Wyoming

These summer days up north are deceiving due to their length. It’s still unbelievable that we’ll pull over in Green River, Wyoming, in a couple of hours and call it quits on the day so we can get a proper night of sleep. Tomorrow is the long haul home, and we are certainly accumulating a sleep deficit. Our original plans had us driving to Salt Lake City tonight, but after weighing the options and verifying the miles on our map, we decided on the detour. The Flaming Gorge Motel was a bargain at $38 for the night and is also a clue as to why we are detouring.

Glacier to Yellowstone – Day 3

Caroline Wise and John entering Glacier National Park in Montana for the first time

We are close to our destination of reaching the Canadian border, but we first have to deal with a National Park in our way and apparently also have to contend with an encounter with the sun.

Glacier National Park in Montana

Going-to-the-Sun Road is an imaginatively named road that elicits dreams of moving into the heavens. First, we will have many miles that need to be covered to reach such lofty heights. Lake McDonald in the early morning makes for a beautiful sight.

Glacier National Park in Montana

If we have to stop every five minutes to gawk at the scenery, we’ll never make it to either Canada or the Sun.

Glacier National Park in Montana

Where water flows, so do our emotions, and from them, an outpouring of not only love of place but the reinforcement of love between each other. Our profound luck to be first-hand witnesses to such spectacular places is a kind of magic we find inexplicable but will hopefully continue to experience well into the future.

Glacier National Park in Montana

That tiny scar across those steep slopes is the road we’ve been traveling on our way to the Sun.

Glacier National Park in Montana

Wow, somebody broke out the beauty stick and beat this part of the Earth hard.

Mountain Goats in Glacier National Park in Montana

I can’t help but see momma goat on the right seeming to be stepping out of her winter coat. At this point, we were on the other side of the Logan Pass Visitor Center, starting our exploration of the eastern side of Glacier National Park.

Glacier National Park in Montana

We must be getting close to the Sun as its reflections are becoming ever more impressive. If I’m not mistaken this is Saint Mary Lake.

Glacier National Park in Montana

Some will stop for squirrels or bears; I’m all about the thistle.

Glacier National Park in Montana

Maybe we are shortchanging Glacier National Park with a brief half-day visit?

Glacier National Park in Montana

Swiftcurrent Lake on the Continental Divide Trail in an area called Many Glacier. Now I’m certain we will not be able to give this park its due. With such a short season, this park will be difficult to visit again.

Glacier National Park in Montana

This park is a place where every corner and hillside offers a vastly different view of what you thought you were just looking at. It’s a bit of a fool’s paradise for photographers where getting lost in snapping more than you are experiencing is a real risk.

Montana

Sure, we took the obligatory photos at the Canada frontier sign and again at the “Welcome to Montana” sign for those traveling south, but those selfies were weak compared to this beautiful shot of a dramatic sky and weathered barn set in the green grass surrounded by cragged mountains. Matter of fact, we went so far that we were on the other side of the “Leaving America” sign, and upon seeing the long line of traffic to cross into Canada, we changed our mind about stepping into the Great White North and made a U-turn. We still have to go through U.S. Customs even though we’ve not left America, as the border control agents couldn’t see that we’d never left. So the obligatory moment of tension mounts as we wonder if our names have somehow shown up on some list that mandates that we are border bait for a cavity search. Fortunately, we had digital pictures that showed us just minutes before on the American side and had, in fact, not been in Canada, so after a minute or two with our friendly border agent, we were allowed to proceed.

Museum of the Plains in Browning, Montana

In Browning, Montana, we needed to stop in at the Museum of the Plains Indian to learn something more about the indigenous people that once enjoyed the lands of their ancestors without the interference of those who would rather they live somewhere else, such as on the moon. The contrast between the art of Native Americans who lived in Pueblos and those who lived on the Plains is stark.

Museum of the Plains in Browning, Montana

Both historic and contemporary arts and crafts are on display here. Too bad no in-residence Native Americans are sponsored here to help us visitors learn something more about the Blackfeet, Crow, Northern Cheyenne, Sioux, Assiniboine, Arapaho, Shoshone, Nez Perce, Flathead, Chippewa, and Cree cultures that are represented here.

Montana

I see it, too, off in the distance, way out there….. Being out here on the Great Plains is a terrific contrast to the canyons, mountains, and forests that we traveled through on our way north.

Caroline Wise and John Wise at the Roosevelt Entrance at Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

It’s YELLOWSTONE! Not just once in a lifetime, not even twice, but a third visit is in order, even if it’s a fraction of the time of our previous outings.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

Fourth of July long weekend you can rest assured that finding lodging in the park would be a long shot. Even finding something outside of the park wasn’t that easy, and apparently, we got one of the last two rooms available in Gardiner, which is just outside the park over in Montana. Here we are at the Mammoth Hot Springs terraces, and this, at least for today, will have to be the extent of our time in the park as it’s getting dark.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

Hot water, minerals, and plants that thrive in this chemical soup may not be everybody’s cup of tea, hmmm, probably be a horrible-tasting cup of tea, come to think about it, but Caroline and I enjoy every single proverbial drop of it.

Caroline Wise at Helen's Corral in Gardiner, Montana

We ate bison burgers at this little joint called Helen’s Corral a few years ago and are enjoying it a second time while reminiscing about our previous visits to Yellowstone and that Caroline’s mom was here with us on our last excursion into this corner of America. Tomorrow brings nearly a full day of revisiting some familiar places. We can’t wait.