Flagstaff Area in Arizona

Montezuma Well National Monument in Rimrock, Arizona

This was but one stop on a day trip that took us to Montezuma Well. Caroline had been curious about this place after I told her about it on one of my solo trips, and so here we are. This flow from the Well travels through a crack and down to an irrigation canal below.

Montezuma Well National Monument in Rimrock, Arizona

On the left is a small cliff dwelling that was once occupied by the Sinagua people, who are likely also responsible for the dwellings in Wupatki and Walnut Canyon, where we’ve also been.

A petroglyph panel near Sedona, Arizona

These petroglyphs at the V-Bar-V Ranch near Sedona are also artifacts left by the Sinagua. The site can only be visited Friday through Monday.

Near Flagstaff, Arizona

With some nice weather and no sign of latent monsoons on the horizon, we opted to travel a back-road dirt trail around Humphrey’s Peak instead of taking the more direct route to our next destination.

Sunset Crater National Monument in Northern Arizona

Will we ever tire of looking out over a landscape knowing that not very long ago, lava was flowing here? It was only about 1,000 years ago that this area was active along with a flow that entered the Grand Canyon north of here. We are at Sunset Crater Volcanic National Monument.

Sunset Crater National Monument in Northern Arizona

It’s kind of strange that in these 1,000 years, the relentless pounding of time and weather hasn’t turned this lava rock to dust to allow the soil to develop that might support a field of wildflowers.

Wupatki National Monument in Northern Arizona

Seeing we appear to be following in the footsteps of the Sinagua, another visit to the ruins at Wupatki National Monument seems in order.

Wupatki National Monument in Northern Arizona

Caroline and I first visited Wupatki shortly after we moved to America on a visit with Ruby and Axel. Someday I’ll scan those old photos and negatives and will hopefully remember to link them here. Our first visit in the age of digital photographs was back in October of 1999 with some other friends; you can see that blog post by clicking here.

Santa Barbara, California

Caroline, my Aunt Anne Burns, and I in Santa Barbara, California

It is always a pleasure to make the 500-mile drive to visit my aunt and uncle in Santa Barbara. We have decided to try to make it over every 90 days or so as, being the only family on this coast, they don’t have much social contact besides the group of regulars that meet early mornings Monday through Friday for coffee at McDonald’s.

I can guess we went for breakfast a couple of times on this trip and that we shopped at Costco – it’s a mandatory stop. We took Sophie, their German Shepherd, for a walk or two in the park, but besides this, there are no other photographs telling us what we may have done this weekend. It is possible we spent the better part of the days simply talking and reminiscing.

Utah to Colorado to New Mexico – Day 5

Roadside in New Mexico

The Puebloans built something a thousand years ago over at Chaco Culture, and it’s standing up better than what my ancestors built 100 years ago.

Roadside in New Mexico

Then there’s nature that, with great fidelity, keeps duplicating the plants and animals along with the conditions that support the life found on our planet, except we humans who are part of this force are using our “intellect” to crush those systems where we can.

Roadside in New Mexico

Oh, look, it’s a spotted cucumber beetle.

Roadside in New Mexico

Welcome to Doodle Dum, as it has been named by its most recent inhabitant, Cassie Hobbs. This somewhat peculiar home in Chloride, New Mexico, was built in 1921 by Austin Crawford who designed it to withstand the hail god was going to send to earth. Fortunately for Mr. Crawford, that day never came, but the town of Chloride started to disappear off the map until nothing much more than a ghost town existed. This remote corner was certainly worth a visit, we only wish the Pioneer Store Museum had been open while we were in the area.

Roadside in New Mexico

This promised to be a vast stretch of nature untouched by humans aside from the road that is cutting through it; hopefully, we’ll have enough gas. Just up the road, and lucky for us, not 100 miles up the road, there was a crew doing road repairs and said the road ahead was impassable. Well, that changed our plans of heading back to Arizona via this mountain route on Highway 52.

Roadside in New Mexico

So instead, we turn around and aim for the 152 West.

Roadside in New Mexico

This isn’t bad, and there’s a detour ahead we can take.

Gila River in New Mexico

Lake Roberts is a nice lush corner of New Mexico, but we’re just passing through.

Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument in New Mexico

Our destination is the Gila Cliff Dwellings, which are part of the National Monument that bears their name. These homes were part of the Mogollon People’s lands that started just north of here and included most of the Mexican state of Chihuahua. Like so many other tribes of the Southwest, they abandoned their place here next to the Gila River and moved on.

Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument in New Mexico

Oral tradition among tribes, including the Acoma, Hopi, and Zuni, says the Mogollon integrated into their societies.

Caroline Wise and John Wise at Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument in New Mexico

It’s great that these are now protected lands, but one hundred years ago, they were being pillaged by hunters, farmers, and people collecting artifacts, including human remains in the form of mummies. Caroline and I are leaving with memories of one of the more remote parks in the U.S. National Park system.

Caroline Wise standing in the Gila River in New Mexico

Of course, Caroline had to doff her shoes and roll up her pants before stepping into the waters of the Gila River. One day, I’ll have to compile a list of how many of America’s major bodies of water and waterways she has dipped her toes into.

Pinos Altos, New Mexico

Our last stop before finally driving home on this five-day journey into the Southwest is in Pinos Altos, New Mexico. Someone we know hails from this small town that is trying to become a ghost town these days with a population of a couple of hundred, down from about 9,000 back in the 1880s when gold was being mined in the area.

Arizona state sign

What kind of people drive by a state sign and have to stop to shoot it? Maybe people like us in some way who have to stop and shoot it with a camera, a way of saying, “I’ve been here.”

Utah to Colorado to New Mexico – Day 4

White horse next to a dirt road in New Mexico

This is how mythologies are made. Yesterday we helped a runaway horse by preventing it from reentering the highway and looking for its owners. This morning, on our way down to Chaco Culture, we spotted this white horse on a rise next to a dirt road. It was as though the spirit of the white horse came out to greet us at the break of day to let us know it was looking over us as we’d looked out for one of theirs.

Caroline Wise and John Wise at Chaco Culture National Historic Park in New Mexico

The sun is fully over the horizon by the time we reach the park boundary and start our third visit to Chaco Culture National Historical Park and World Heritage Site. Our previous visits were both back in the year 2000 around the same time of year; click here for the first one and click here for the one a month later where we just had to share this with my mother-in-law, Jutta.

Chaco Culture National Historic Park in New Mexico

Someday, we’ll hopefully pay that rock known as Fajada Butte out there a visit and explore the mystery of the Anasazi Sun Dagger. Today, though, we are heading up to a different location.

Chaco Culture National Historic Park in New Mexico

Is this ruin smiling at us?

Chaco Culture National Historic Park in New Mexico

There’s a narrow crack in the cliffside that is the original footpath leading from above to below and vice versa and was used by the earliest visitors to this outpost. Today, we made the time to crawl up through in order to gain this view of Pueblo Bonito.

Chaco Culture National Historic Park in New Mexico

Thank you to everyone polite enough not to scavenge the artifacts that allow us to have a visit of discovery where surprises abound.

Chaco Culture National Historic Park in New Mexico

We explored more of the plateau, but how many photos should I post? We are on our way back down.

Chaco Culture National Historic Park in New Mexico

Buried in the sandstone cliffs are reminders that while you may think you are in a desert, the land you walk upon was once seafloor.

Chaco Culture National Historic Park in New Mexico

Chaco is an incredible place well off the beaten path and certainly deserves to be a World Heritage Site. There are many things we do not know about this complex of ancient buildings, but I’m thrilled that there are people working to preserve what is here. The Puebloans obviously have a rich history that is practically invisible to us modern inhabitants of their ancestral lands. When will our culture evolve to a point of maturity that allows the Native Americans of North America to trust us?

Wandering horses in New Mexico

More horses. For some reason or other, horses lend a kind of confidence about a place. They make it more welcoming. Maybe it has to do with the idea that if a horse can live on these lands, then how harsh can this place be?

Jay's Liquors in New Mexico

I could take a photo of this building ten more times, and still, I won’t tire of being welcomed to uranium country by a liquor store.

Acoma Pueblo in New Mexico

Visiting Acoma Pueblo, also known as Sky City, requires everyone to join an organized tour, and if you plan on taking photos, you’ll need to buy a special permit. The pace through the pueblo is perfect and never felt rushed. We started the tour in the church, but there was no photography allowed within, and as hard as it was, I was respectful of the tribe’s wishes.

Acoma Pueblo in New Mexico

Pardon me on these next photos, as I ran with a heavy hand full of favorites that I just had to post. I find this place more beautiful and serene than anywhere in Beverly Hills or Santa Fe. I’m under no delusion that there could likely be a high level of poverty and maybe even alcohol or other substance abuse going on, but that can happen everywhere. Maybe the people who live here find survival difficult. I can’t know as I don’t have the luxury of chatting with the inhabitants. From my perspective, which is radically different than the one I would have had from my childhood through my thirties, this sky island is an idyllic paradise.

Acoma Pueblo in New Mexico

What I wouldn’t give to be here a morning when bread was being baked in this hearth and then head over to the edge of the mesa and, while it’s still steaming hot, break it apart and watch the clouds stream by.

Acoma Pueblo in New Mexico

Am I over-romanticizing my perception and casual observations where I imbue these iconic images through the filter of a Western mind that has created a story divorced from reality? Probably. All the same, I’m in love with the utility, simplicity, and place of how it perfectly presents a lifestyle that is as far away from my existence as I could imagine.

Acoma Pueblo in New Mexico

As I said earlier, the location is idyllic.

Acoma Pueblo in New Mexico

This nearly presented me with a dilemma as you are required to seek permission to take anyone’s photo. This was the second shot I was snapping of these houses and I was snapping the image before I could recognize that a young man was leaving his home. Had he asked if I’d taken his photo and then requested for me to remove it, I would have obliged, but he seemed to shrug it off, and we both continued on our ways.

Acoma Pueblo in New Mexico

When the guided tour was over, we were welcomed to leave on the road that John Wayne once demanded be carved here while he was working on a film, or we could take the historic route. We opted for the historic route so we could delay the point we had to leave. The narrow trail between some large rocks is well worn, and in some spots, there are toe- and handholds to climb up the rock, and in others, there are stairs as seen on the right of this photo.

Acoma Pueblo in New Mexico

Every corral should be so beautiful.

El Malpais National Monument in New Mexico

A quick stop into El Malpais National Monument to admire the lava flows and arches before heading to Socorro for an overnight.

El Camino Family Restaurant in Socorro, New Mexico

Yep, this is why we are staying in Socorro. Two meals at the El Camino Family Restaurant can’t be beat, even if we eat the exact same thing for dinner and breakfast the next morning. I’m telling you that you are setting a trend with having guacamole for breakfast along with green chili and cheese-smothered steak with beans.

Utah to Colorado to New Mexico – Day 3

The road we are taking to Lake City, Colorado, out of Gunnison, follows the braided Gunnison River as we leave town before the sun comes up.

While I could say that I’d love to drive in these mountains every day, I’d be lying because as soon as a flake of snow falls, I’d be wishing to be in Arizona sitting in shorts on a winter day having an iced tea, wishing to be somewhere it’s snowing.

I’m a sucker for barns set in idyllic locations where I could imagine living as a cow, not a steer for slaughter, but a friendly cow that wasn’t being milked by a mechanical octopus sucking the life out of me. My name would be Bessie, of course.

You can bet a dollar we took this route for this reason right here. Alfred Packer ate people on this spot one hundred twenty-nine years ago, and I’d guess he did it with gusto because if you are going cannibal, I don’t believe you pussyfoot into something this serious. You toss the bib and ketchup to the side and hold on tight while you start chewing on another man’s face and armpit; gotta start with the tender spots, right? Sadly, I can’t report that there was any draw to be pulled into that kind of madness as others report when visiting Niagara Falls and say they feel drawn by the water.

Out of gruesome pilgrimage, we return you to blatant scenes of profound beauty where primitive fences lead into wooded areas bordering small idyllic lakes in a valley surrounded by mountains while fluffy clouds dance along the edges.

Looks to be on the shallow side for kayaking, canoeing, or rafting, though who am I to judge such things?

Wildflowers, mountains, and dunes are not something you expect to see every day.

While the Great Sand Dunes National Monument has been authorized to become a National Park with an expansion of its lands a few years ago, it’s awaiting approval from Congress. Next time we visit, hopefully, we’ll be able to brag that we’d been here back when it was a wee monument.

There are at least six people in this photo; can you find them? The mountains in the background are the  Sangre de Cristo Range, which extends down into New Mexico and represents the end of the Rockies.

A road trip to consider would take us from Santa Fe at the foot of the Sangre de Cristo Range right up to Toad River in British Columbia, Canada. With this trip, we will see the extent of the Rocky Mountains with our own eyes; sounds like a plan.

During sunrise and sunset, those mountain peaks look red in the “alpenglow” hence their name that translates to Blood of the Christ – Sangre de Cristo.

Trillions of treasures for the eye likely exist distributed throughout these mountains; we see a few dozen and are somehow satisfied. Oh yeah, this just happens to be Treasure Falls in the Pagosa Springs area of Colorado, should you be wondering.

This horse left her pasture, and her hooves failed her on the asphalt; down she went with some road rash for her desire to explore the larger world. We’d seen her go over the fence as her companions running with ferocity approached the edge of the property, so while Caroline kept her company and reassured her that we’d find someone to bring her safely back to the fold, I went onto the property to get the owner’s attention. Back she went to the nervous herd that had been anxiously standing by, and we drove off happy that this beautiful white horse hadn’t been hit by a passing car.

Tonight’s sleeping adventure is being brought to us courtesy of Aztec, New Mexico, over in the Four Corners region. Time for some desert exploration.